Just picked up a 2014 from older, 72 yr old guy original owner. He kept it all original. I'm going to spend a lot of time researching before any mods. Really appreciate all of the info you provided. Arizona FJ so it looks new.
I’m jealous of those mint southern frames. Haha. Definitely do your research. I would say to especially pay attention to suspension as it’s something you’ll always notice. The other one would be lighting if you drive much at night.🤙🏼
tires +tires will be 25 to 30 lbs over factory, but what really kills the power delivery is the gearing. I have 33's on mine and I think thats the limit before having to do major modifications to run the car safe and reliable.
The green one is a manual with 3.91 gearing and it felt perfectly fine with this setup. The white auto one also did perfectly fine with a super light 35” setup, but anything heavy kills it. Toyota people tend to over-gear due to lack of power, so it really depends. 35s on a supercharged FJ with stock gears feels just fine too.🤙🏼
I've been on. 35s, stock gearing, in Colorado, for 3 yrs. I don't tow anything. I was going to regear but decided to try it first. I won't change it now unless I break something.
Mines at 280,000 miles, everything brand new under it again. Lived it's whole life on wide 35 mudders. Crossed the country and back for work well over a couple dozen times, come back to Alabama, straight to the woods. I'll never get rid of it. So much custom shop work. So much extra power. Love it. Found my root problem today. Apparently they get frame rot. Gravity is holding the motor and shocks both in right now. Cracked welds everywhere. Apparently 1.5 million frames like this were recalled. I just found out, and think I missed the window. Do you know anything about this?
Unfortunately, FJs were never part of the frame recall that toyota did. If the rot is salvageable, you might want to talk to a custom fabrication shop about patching the frame. Sorry to hear about your issues!
@@fj_matt i can weld an what not. Thats not as much as the issue as treating it afterwards, and having it lined back up where it should be when i do weld it. Iv got it so hopped up, and thru the years, its just broke an stretched the steel so much it has to be pulled back together with a frame machine first if i were to use mine. But again, then i have to treat he inside of a full box frame or iv done all that for nothing. Ton of work. An to my knowledge, there are no frames i can just buy without the same problem waiting to happen. Right?
Yeah, they couldn't or wouldn't help. But they don't make the frame anymore, so I'd assume once I find one, I'm buying the same problem. I think I'm going to just clear the shop, tear of cab, motor, fuckin everything, pull it to speck, actually weld it like it should be, instead of tacks everywhere, fisher plates etc. But then I still gotta have it dipped or it'll be for nothing. ..... that's a lot dude. But I'll never get rid of her. She's crossed country over a dozen times 1 way, my daily, my work truck, my side by side, my hunting blind, hell I had to live in it in the west Texas desert oil field for a while. She's a monster, iv done all the work myself since new, and now she's all new again, but won't drive it because I don't want the frame to dump everything or break more new shit. But I need her now. Like now now, and I only have time for a come along and my welder with steel plates. To correctly half ass that I need more time really.... ffs man. She's my baby. Even my RUclips profile pic lol @@fj_matt
Planning to get Ironman Foamcell 2" lift with some BFG or Falken/Yokohama 285/70/17. I've been told these are LT tires and would impact the transmission/gearbox in the long-term since they are heavier tires - been told to change the gear ratio. Did you have do that or face any problems?
If you don’t want to do aftermarket upper control arms, than 2.5” is the max your alignment will be happy with. I prefer the more level look you tend to get with a 3” lift though, and with the age of most FJs, it doesn’t hurt to do new (aftermarket) upper control arms. Stay away from 6” drop bracket lifts though. In my personal opinion they just aren’t worth it.🤙🏼
My fj is just stock with stock wheels. I’m just wondering if I can do these tires only and it be ok. I thought I would have to do a differential change. Is this possible with stock fj cruiser and just get the frame cut? It’s hard talking to shops they just wanna upsale.
Extremely helpful. Thank you so much for this thorough run down! I've probably read 30 different BMC / Pinch weld posts and learned new stuff here.
More than welcome. I was hoping that people would find the in person type video helpful! Cheers
Just picked up a 2014 from older, 72 yr old guy original owner. He kept it all original. I'm going to spend a lot of time researching before any mods.
Really appreciate all of the info you provided. Arizona FJ so it looks new.
I’m jealous of those mint southern frames. Haha. Definitely do your research. I would say to especially pay attention to suspension as it’s something you’ll always notice. The other one would be lighting if you drive much at night.🤙🏼
Nice video Matt! Glad I could help!
Mucho thanks, as always!
tires +tires will be 25 to 30 lbs over factory, but what really kills the power delivery is the gearing. I have 33's on mine and I think thats the limit before having to do major modifications to run the car safe and reliable.
The green one is a manual with 3.91 gearing and it felt perfectly fine with this setup. The white auto one also did perfectly fine with a super light 35” setup, but anything heavy kills it. Toyota people tend to over-gear due to lack of power, so it really depends. 35s on a supercharged FJ with stock gears feels just fine too.🤙🏼
I've been on. 35s, stock gearing, in Colorado, for 3 yrs. I don't tow anything. I was going to regear but decided to try it first. I won't change it now unless I break something.
@@supacheef1what’s your mpg looking like?
This was really informative.
I’m going a couple years with no plate on my CMC I also have zero issues.
There we go! Easiest way to do it!🙌🏻
Cool video. No idea what you are talking about in most of it, but still cool. Lol
Hahaha I’m glad you still enjoyed it.
Looks amazing
Here to support canadas very own
Haha thanks
Would it rub at full compression?
Mines at 280,000 miles, everything brand new under it again. Lived it's whole life on wide 35 mudders. Crossed the country and back for work well over a couple dozen times, come back to Alabama, straight to the woods. I'll never get rid of it. So much custom shop work. So much extra power. Love it.
Found my root problem today. Apparently they get frame rot. Gravity is holding the motor and shocks both in right now. Cracked welds everywhere. Apparently 1.5 million frames like this were recalled. I just found out, and think I missed the window.
Do you know anything about this?
Unfortunately, FJs were never part of the frame recall that toyota did. If the rot is salvageable, you might want to talk to a custom fabrication shop about patching the frame. Sorry to hear about your issues!
@@fj_matt i can weld an what not. Thats not as much as the issue as treating it afterwards, and having it lined back up where it should be when i do weld it. Iv got it so hopped up, and thru the years, its just broke an stretched the steel so much it has to be pulled back together with a frame machine first if i were to use mine. But again, then i have to treat he inside of a full box frame or iv done all that for nothing. Ton of work. An to my knowledge, there are no frames i can just buy without the same problem waiting to happen. Right?
All I know about would be a new frame from toyota. You should be able to find one much cheaper from a rolled FJ though.
Yeah, they couldn't or wouldn't help. But they don't make the frame anymore, so I'd assume once I find one, I'm buying the same problem.
I think I'm going to just clear the shop, tear of cab, motor, fuckin everything, pull it to speck, actually weld it like it should be, instead of tacks everywhere, fisher plates etc. But then I still gotta have it dipped or it'll be for nothing.
..... that's a lot dude. But I'll never get rid of her. She's crossed country over a dozen times 1 way, my daily, my work truck, my side by side, my hunting blind, hell I had to live in it in the west Texas desert oil field for a while. She's a monster, iv done all the work myself since new, and now she's all new again, but won't drive it because I don't want the frame to dump everything or break more new shit. But I need her now. Like now now, and I only have time for a come along and my welder with steel plates. To correctly half ass that I need more time really.... ffs man.
She's my baby. Even my RUclips profile pic lol @@fj_matt
What are the specs on the wheels for the green FJ? Specifically the width, offset and/or backspacing? It turned out sick. Thanks for the video.
Looking for the same information as well..
Sorry for the slow reply! They are 17x9 with a -12 offset.
Do you still have to do a BMC if you use a positive offset? I want to keep the tires inside the fenders
that cut @ 16:12. 20th Century FOX 😂
Hahahaha. I knew some people would catch it.😂
So is this a 9 inch wide wheel with what offset ? Was it a -12 offset?
Wait….. you have a video off the bumper that is in the white fj the one with the red rock sliders ? I think it looks amazing
Unfortunately, it’s been discontinued for a while. Ascend Fabrication is making a new FJ bumper though that looks great!
What about off-road after this with no lift, does tire punch upper inner fender? Is this for looks?
Planning to get Ironman Foamcell 2" lift with some BFG or Falken/Yokohama 285/70/17. I've been told these are LT tires and would impact the transmission/gearbox in the long-term since they are heavier tires - been told to change the gear ratio. Did you have do that or face any problems?
What front bumper is that? Custom made?
Is a regear necessary when running 35s?
MAGNESON!
I wish! It’s on the dream mod list. Haha
I need that bumper on the wet FJ without the winch plate just a bumper. And it’s almost impossible to find one.
What level kit is the green FJ running with the stick upper control arms?
It’s a toytec kit using bilstien 5100. I would recommend just doing bilstien 5100 instead of spending the extra money.🤙🏼
More LR3 videos!
I should have the full build walk around out within the next two weeks!
Trying to figure out how big of a lifted to put on my fj it’s stock any suggestions
If you don’t want to do aftermarket upper control arms, than 2.5” is the max your alignment will be happy with. I prefer the more level look you tend to get with a 3” lift though, and with the age of most FJs, it doesn’t hurt to do new (aftermarket) upper control arms.
Stay away from 6” drop bracket lifts though. In my personal opinion they just aren’t worth it.🤙🏼
Hi Matt, so just a BMC and a pich weld fold and no lift will fit 35s? Will negative 12 wheels offset work? Thanks.
There will be a bit of plastic trimming as well, but that’s most of it. 🤙🏼
You talk a lot. Try to be brief
His face on the camera all the time 2...
Explain the thum ups 🤔
What size are these 35" tires?
They are 315/70r17 more specifically. They tend to measure out about the same as a 35x12.5r17 depending on brand.
What are those wheels and tires? 2:46
Do you mean the ones on the white FJ at 2:56?
I Ment on the green fj. The light weight tires set up. All I can see is good year
My fj is just stock with stock wheels. I’m just wondering if I can do these tires only and it be ok. I thought I would have to do a differential change. Is this possible with stock fj cruiser and just get the frame cut? It’s hard talking to shops they just wanna upsale.
The light tires on the fake beadlocks, I can read Goodyear but which type? Wrangler Territory MT? What size?
Did he said 3/8" steel?? What?
I would re gear
Tires past the wheel well is illegal insurans will not cover you in a acident in a tight spot you run over things and not now it 😂😂😂😂
Yeah, that’s not how that works here. But thanks for the comment.🤙🏼
Your spelling says everything...