I've learned you can't pitch the tracks up slightly. On a 7-8' tall door, I want to be 2-3" higher in the back. On a 12', that's gonna be 4-6" higher in the back. Yes, you can use them on standard lift, but not without concessions. Like you said, pusher springs are an option, but on top of the 8500 not wanting to push against them, those also get noisy if they're not kept lubricated. Which, let's be blunt, unless the homeowner is an old timer, or a competent DIY'er, we know those doors never get lubricated unless we're doing it. I've had decent luck so far with the new Genie/OHD jackshaft motors, but I'm still watching to see how they do in the long run. I've not had the cable dump issue so far with them. But time will tell. Recently the Italian company Nice got in with HySecurity, and has started bringing their ops to the US. They also have a resi jackshaft called the Soon. I'm watching to see how those play out. So at least there are now other options than just the 8500.
Ok...first thing. Make the door just a little heavy. Still able to hold itself when open, but a bit heavy. Secondly...the tension monitor is upside down. The body of it is supposed to be pointed up. Look in the instructions. They come from factory set up for left side installation. If you install on the right side there is a "e" clip that you pop off and take the roller assembly out and turn it around and put the clip back on. Just my 2 cents seeing as i install doors and openers for a living. And i have an 8500w in my garage.
The problem with making the door heavy is that when the door is lifted above the header and there is no more tension on the springs, then the cable start falling out of its groove and then the cable comes off. My solution #1, is to incline the tracks in the back to ensure the door is rolling down to start with when the 8500 starts turning it. #2, I also mount a strut to the bottom panel, filled with portland cement to give it additional weight, again ensuring the door will roll down as soon as the torsion bar starts turning. #3, one spring is wound tighter than the engineering specifies to ensure that there is torsion on the bar when the 8500 lifts it to the fully open position. One spring is unwound to a balanced spot to ensure that the door does not fall too fast if the safety cable is pulled. If these conditions are met, I have had nothing but perfection with these operators.
Imho, the door should balance properly- half in the track radius up, half of the door radius down. If the springs are the correct size for the weight of the door, it should have proper cable tension on the drums with the door in full open position, therefore the cables won't jump off the drum PROVIDED both cables were equally tensioned before winding the spring or springs depending on the door size/weight. Just my thoughts on this.
You can shorten the pusher springs to accommodate the track length most of the time. The pusher spring tube has a belled mouth on the opposite end of the rubber bumper. Cut the belled mouth off, shorten it and the spring to the length you need to make up for the cable slack for the first several inches of travel. Use a large ball peen hammer to remake the belled mouth and mount them to the track. This way, if your horizontal track is a little too short, you wont need the operator to overcome the entire spring compression stroke.
The problem is that Liftmaster tried to develop a sidemount product for a (home owner) standard radius door, when a side mount has no business being on a standard radius door. Liftmaster should have ditched the cable tension monitor and replaced it with a pair of spring pushers. There is very limited gravitational bias on a garage door with standard radius track, to favor the downward motion. If you have a standard radius door, just get a darn trolley style door opener. It will save you money in the long term, I promise.
I've got 1 of these mounted on the garage and the shop and have had zero issues. There is one on my main double garage insulated door and another on my double car insulated shop door. The garage door company mounted them new when the house was built 8 years ago and going strong.
Guys..... These motors are fantastic! A few things... First... These motors like the door to be a little heavy. You have to remember where as a door with a rail needs added tension to keep the cables tight while the door is up.. A jackshaft wants the door a little heavy while up as it simply pushes straight back down and there's no need to add tension to keep the cables tight while up. Second... The track needs a pitch so when released to travel down its already wanting to fall that way. Third... You can install the cable tension monitor either way. The problem with this one is not the placement of it but how far it is from the cable. It's too far from the cable so the monitor never gets to do its job. The cable tension monitor must close and hit the sensor to activate. This one won't activate until the cable is practically off. I always build a small block or plate that only gives about an inch of play where as this looks like about three inches or so. Last... This operator will most definitely push bump springs back once force is set properly. However, bump springs are not necessary with this set up. I just don't want this motor to be bashed because it is a great buy.
You’re right it is a whimpy opener....when you install it on a door that size. You have a door that is right at the max limit of this opener. I would have never chosen an opener that is going to be pushed this hard. Another thing is that your cable tension sensor is installed upside down....could be a reason why it’s not functioning properly. This video is a bad review as a result of a poor install.
Not sure if you work on doors for a living or not, but the above post is correct. The springs are there to counter balance the weight of the door. All the opener is doing is rotating the shaft. There should be little to no effort required by the opener in order to open/close the door if your door is balanced correctly.
I have learned that the spring MUST HAVE the right tension on them, if/When you get the springs anjested just right, you will never have a problem with the 8500 opener. Trust me, I have been using mine for 3 years with out a single problem.
This video is 5 years old, but I couldn't agree more. I just had a Liftmaster 8500W installed for my 16x7 garage door. Unfortunately my local OverheadDoor company was happy to sell it to me. I thought it was pretty slick until the cables came off the drums the first week. Then they added cable keeper springs to help take the slack out. Now the cable keepers pop off occasionally and I'm looking at pusher springs. Had I known this thing was so much trouble, I would have gone with a regular belt drive opener. What a pain!
Yep, my 8500 just spit both cables out to the floor when the close command was sent. Trying to figure out how to fix and why this even happened. Thanks for the comments. I learned a lot from those.
It annoys me that the garage door jackshaft specs for door actuation max strength is not in the units of TORQUE… This makes it impossible to assess max-min forces for a given door My uneducated takeaway is : It’s best to use this only on well balanced doors…. The guys who did my tracks did them wrong (butt end splices of straight to straight sections and a tight 15” radius for the 90 degree sweep Thanks to that I have a door that requires positive force to lift it for the first 85 percent of travel but NEGATIVE force to push the door up the last 8” Guessing this eliminates any chance of a jackshaft solution even though overhead can easily lift fifty and push back 30 pounds Not easy to fix the tracks because the top rails are spot welded to the 90 degree sweep
Pitch the tracks more . Also if your worried about slacking cables they make cable tensioners that fit on the bottom bracket . Never had an issue with these motors . But on a door that big you should be using a commercial grade motor ! Be safe brother
Yep! I never liked those things either. Our garage has the LiftMaster AC motor chain drives, and I love them. I personally think having a visible opener on the ceiling only makes things look cooler. And I mean come on, those who say it makes things look cluttered? Seriously, it'a a garage! Not a living room! I never liked the idea of those things operating the door by the spring shaft and not the door itself, makes no sense on my opinion, and probably only makes things more difficult when spring replacement is required. Wouldn't work on our doors anyway, as they're extension spring.
Haha love it. I would totally agree do you want style or function because let's face it when the door fails and your stuck in you garage it's like losing power and it's the end of world lol.
I agree it is a garage and some people have car lifts in them so a center mount would not work! Also If it was installed correctly there would be no issues! But for doors that big I would have went with a commercial grade opener!
To everyone hating on this video (pin the comment) 1. The cable tension monitor can be installed either way. It works just as well 2. You can find a problem with pretty much every job. I bet if I looked at your 8500 installs I could find a problem with it. 3. The opener is replaced with a genie screw drive, so stop criticizing this install 4. Maybe if you listened to what he's saying about the opener instead of looking for things that are a problem, maybe this video will make more sense
I installed one of these The limits would not set. It was either happy going this way or was happy going that way but it was never happy going both ways. In addition that wimpy little DC motor is probably made for hollow thin gauge aluminum doors. I have a wood door this sounded like an old car starter with a dead battery😞 my opinion stick with the overhead or buy a commercial side mount and it's pretty expensive for a box of rocks and whatever you do DONT BUY FROM 365 garage door. Their support is actually worse than Liftmaster ( if you can believeve that)
A door that big with any type of jackshaft opener .. And jack shaft drive has been around longer then we have both been alive .so its not a new idea, should have cable keepers or spring pushers installed in the rear .
I can hear the frustration we’ve ALL FELT in the field/heat of the moment especially when we’re cleaning up our techs work/playing detective to identify the problem and long term solution for ourselves/customer. That being said, unfortunately that motor is THE BEST version CGI made (IMO 24VDC motor, strong lock), their latest version in sure you’re familiar with the 8500W is even worse! (Weak 12VDC motor, weak Auto Lock). I beta tested the Genie 6070/6170 starting 2years ago, and I KNOW I KNOW most people have their opinion of Genie but I swear to you all of their “RELIA-G” line (black Motörhead’s normally used in builder packages) are GREAT! They are what we USED to get from LM’s DC line! The 10/1128+20/2128+3020/3120+6070/6170 are all the same platform. Strong and reliable 24VDC motor, chain or belt. (1-pallet of heads + mix/match belt/chain rails I don’t sell chain but if you’re in new construction you may find that useful) 1000 series has less warranty and less soft stop/start (programmed in the board), 2000 series motor warranty/soft stop/start, 3000 on the same tier as 8550 but BETTER! Finally the point of this the 6170 24VDC jackshaft which includes stronger motor, and CABLE TENSIONERS, No Cable tension monitor + their Auto lock fits right into the standard vertical track “knockouts” oh and they mount with STANDARD track bolt & 7/16 nuts! Installer/homeowners dream! Liftmaster is in the same place genie was after genies buyout in 1995, they’re raising prices while lowering quality cutting corners on product and riding on their market dominance. In 1995 you couldn’t have told a dealer in the country Genie was about to lose 75% market share, but it happened due to these same factors. Good luck to you!
it's easy for the 'pros' to bash the product when they don't know how to install the thing. Their answer is don't do it right, just go back to what they know. I wonder if they still watch VHS because the blu-rays just aren't working properly.
I had two of these nice idea piece of junk opener. I have 12" radius rails and in the summer it usually comes down no problem although the thing has so much wire rope slack when closing it's just a matter of time before the wire comes off the drum. In the winter I have to reach up and help it down for a few inches. Too many idiot say add weight that have no idea how a door opens. Sure if the door is installed in a manner that its not fully opened you have more downward weight whats the stinking point of that
How did you end up fixing this door?Been installing 20yrs and just started installing these and think I’m done with this model,I went back on a cable tension failure two days ago and I’m about to start drinking again 🤣😫😤can’t get it to close smooth enough for the cables not to loosen.Enjoy your channel 👍
I have the 8500W problem i have is when garage door is shutting soon as it hits the floor the door goes back up, it doent fo it every time but there are times it will close then goes right back up, i oiled all hinges on door & roller pins, i think the cable tensioner roller may be failing its annoying having to keep clicking the remote to go back down, was crious if anyone ekse has experienced this problem, may be the force adjustment that needs adjusted?
So with that customer I installed a Genie screw drive never went back after that. I have installed 3 Genie residential Jackshaft openers with no call backs yet and they are about 1 year 1-1/2 out in the field working. Honestly we just don't install Jackshaft on residential unless they don't have the room or something is in the way.
What you need are pusher springs! I have encountered this on a RV garage 10x13. The springs mount to the end of the horizontal track and push the door down helping maintain cable tension
Daniel Trousdale Yes funny story 2 months after I did install pusher sprigs the door failed again so anyone want a used 8500 it will be up for sale soon lol.
I had to install helper springs with my small 9x7 door but made a mistake. I ordered the shorter version and just when they should help maintain tension on cables I'm out of spring. If I ordered the longer ones it would be ok. The 8500 goes from slower to higher speed and that is where the problem can occur. I did have to eliminate the slack cable switch as it would cause problems when changing speeds.
First off, turn your phone so you're shooting landscape! A door that big should have a commercial opener. You mentioned pusher springs but you never did actually try them?
I enjoyed your video. I thoughtbi was the only person who hated my 8500. I have a 2 post car lift and I'm pretty sure i cant do the normal style opener. I pitched the track about as far as i can get it to go. I even released some spring tention. You pull the release on the motor. You better be ready cause the door is coming down fast. If i run it down with the motor. It still spins the cables off. Can you post the spring door pusher patt number so i can try those on my 10x10 insulated doors before someone ( me ) gets hurt here. Please and thank you
I just had the small 10x10 door installed in the side of my pole barn and they put one of these on it, the next day I noticed the bottom of the motor was moving back and fourth about 2 in ? But the door works fine, looks like I can see the end of the shaft coming out of the motor going up and down like its bent ? I don't think that motor should be moving do you
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 I would but it was all Amish crew, they did great on the whole shop flawless but they have one weird phone, its not right I'm going to look into it more,
This door needs pusher springs mounted on the tracks....they should have been there on the initial install, i never sell or install jackshaft openers without pusher springs.....
The LiftMaster LJ8900W would have been a better motor if the customer insisted on a Jackshaft. But I too would have installed an overhead motor. Have you seen Genie's new 6170 model? They don't have a cable tension monitor. It's a pretty solid design.
Good to hear from you SOS. You know how you posted something so long ago and forget about cause the customer never calls back. That's when you know you made the right choice lol. I have a new genie Jackshaft at the shop that I haven't tried yet but hopefully soon.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Absolutely. The 8500 to me was those first series of iPhones. They were great for their time but they we also plagued with bugs and problems. I'm glad you have had no troubles with the Genie motor since then.
I know I’m late as shit on the comment. Those sensors are a pain in the ass. Luckily, now they have did away with them but I think it looked like the cable sensor was upside down.
I thought Wayne Dalton had the best design when they made them aside from gear being plastic inside. Mounted over the center of the door. I wish they'd bring back a modified version of that.
Not this boy. I had a customer who's IDrive litterally over heated & started a small fire, but fortunetly for the owner, he had 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling & it only scortched the sheetrock. The Wayne Dalton Torquemaster spring had broke & when the owner was trying to open the door with their remote, the motor overheated & flamed.
I'm building a garage. 2 doors are 9W x 8H, my guy is putting the 8500c it is rated "light commercial" my two 12W x 10H he is putting "commercial duty" he has been doing it for 30year and knows his shit. I say your install is wrong. He just told me how he shows up and can tell you what is wrong before going up the ladder. The other guys take four hours and still don't know. If your guy is leaving you to fix it, then he probably installed it wrong because it doesn't work correctly. Things only work and last if they are done right the first time.
Saw a ton of videos promoting them and how great they are. I found these videos indicating how worthless they are after I purchased two. Wasted a grand for junk.
Everyone in the garage door business knows you dont use jackshaft style operators on standard lift door unless its only way with a heavy duty commercial jackshaft with a brake and push down springs. Then the cost is big time. I couldnt agree with you more. A longer opener than door with extended arm length is so much better on slightly hi lifted residential doors. i would have enjoyed working with you. Love liftmaster, hate the res. shaft drive. Wanna talk junk... W.D. I drive. now that was worst piece of shit i ever saw.
AFFORDABLE DOOR & GATE LLC I will measure and get back to you. It’s pretty tight but not that tight I don’t think but will look for sure. Thanks for the quick reply.
I only install them on 18r or better. Side note NEVER INSTALL ON LOWHEAD with reverse turn springs. Motor thinks it’s opening one closing so if you walk through the photo wise the door will hit you.
Daddy Bear you can install them on reverse wound drums and on lowhead. You have to mound the opener upside down/backwards for the limits and safety reverse to work correctly and don’t forget your pusher springs. I haven’t had to do it yet but I’ve seen it done.
First of all genie screw drive sucks ass. 2nd flip tensioner the right way 3rd add cable saver to bottom fixture Reset limits and force to be safe Ta da problem solved. Been doin this shit for a looooong time
Haha that made me laugh. Just wish customers could look past the beauty of it and understand you want function over beauty. I say we install them and when the truck leaves the driveway it's out of warranty lol.
I've learned you can't pitch the tracks up slightly. On a 7-8' tall door, I want to be 2-3" higher in the back. On a 12', that's gonna be 4-6" higher in the back. Yes, you can use them on standard lift, but not without concessions. Like you said, pusher springs are an option, but on top of the 8500 not wanting to push against them, those also get noisy if they're not kept lubricated. Which, let's be blunt, unless the homeowner is an old timer, or a competent DIY'er, we know those doors never get lubricated unless we're doing it.
I've had decent luck so far with the new Genie/OHD jackshaft motors, but I'm still watching to see how they do in the long run. I've not had the cable dump issue so far with them. But time will tell.
Recently the Italian company Nice got in with HySecurity, and has started bringing their ops to the US. They also have a resi jackshaft called the Soon. I'm watching to see how those play out. So at least there are now other options than just the 8500.
I own three installed myself.
Never had a problem and absolutely love them.
Ok...first thing. Make the door just a little heavy. Still able to hold itself when open, but a bit heavy. Secondly...the tension monitor is upside down. The body of it is supposed to be pointed up. Look in the instructions. They come from factory set up for left side installation. If you install on the right side there is a "e" clip that you pop off and take the roller assembly out and turn it around and put the clip back on. Just my 2 cents seeing as i install doors and openers for a living. And i have an 8500w in my garage.
The problem with making the door heavy is that when the door is lifted above the header and there is no more tension on the springs, then the cable start falling out of its groove and then the cable comes off.
My solution #1, is to incline the tracks in the back to ensure the door is rolling down to start with when the 8500 starts turning it. #2, I also mount a strut to the bottom panel, filled with portland cement to give it additional weight, again ensuring the door will roll down as soon as the torsion bar starts turning. #3, one spring is wound tighter than the engineering specifies to ensure that there is torsion on the bar when the 8500 lifts it to the fully open position. One spring is unwound to a balanced spot to ensure that the door does not fall too fast if the safety cable is pulled.
If these conditions are met, I have had nothing but perfection with these operators.
Imho, the door should balance properly- half in the track radius up, half of the door radius down. If the springs are the correct size for the weight of the door, it should have proper cable tension on the drums with the door in full open position, therefore the cables won't jump off the drum PROVIDED both cables were equally tensioned before winding the spring or springs depending on the door size/weight. Just my thoughts on this.
You can shorten the pusher springs to accommodate the track length most of the time. The pusher spring tube has a belled mouth on the opposite end of the rubber bumper. Cut the belled mouth off, shorten it and the spring to the length you need to make up for the cable slack for the first several inches of travel. Use a large ball peen hammer to remake the belled mouth and mount them to the track. This way, if your horizontal track is a little too short, you wont need the operator to overcome the entire spring compression stroke.
pitch the tracks and everything will be fine. never had any trouble with these except when it is a substandard install.
Cable tensioner installed upside down. Read the installation manual
Haha that's what everyone says but it's gone now lol
Robert Pugsley
you are correct and AFFORDABLE DOOR & GATE LLC thinks it is funny.
Exactly Robert I’m installing 2 8500’s tomorrow....properly!! Haha
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Such credibility! Haha that's what everyone says but it's gone now lol.
@@therookie5263 Not only upside down the gap is to big look how far back the sensor sits from the cable ... way too far.
The problem is that Liftmaster tried to develop a sidemount product for a (home owner) standard radius door, when a side mount has no business being on a standard radius door. Liftmaster should have ditched the cable tension monitor and replaced it with a pair of spring pushers. There is very limited gravitational bias on a garage door with standard radius track, to favor the downward motion. If you have a standard radius door, just get a darn trolley style door opener. It will save you money in the long term, I promise.
I've got 1 of these mounted on the garage and the shop and have had zero issues. There is one on my main double garage insulated door and another on my double car insulated shop door. The garage door company mounted them new when the house was built 8 years ago and going strong.
Guys..... These motors are fantastic! A few things...
First... These motors like the door to be a little heavy. You have to remember where as a door with a rail needs added tension to keep the cables tight while the door is up.. A jackshaft wants the door a little heavy while up as it simply pushes straight back down and there's no need to add tension to keep the cables tight while up.
Second... The track needs a pitch so when released to travel down its already wanting to fall that way.
Third... You can install the cable tension monitor either way. The problem with this one is not the placement of it but how far it is from the cable. It's too far from the cable so the monitor never gets to do its job. The cable tension monitor must close and hit the sensor to activate. This one won't activate until the cable is practically off. I always build a small block or plate that only gives about an inch of play where as this looks like about three inches or so.
Last... This operator will most definitely push bump springs back once force is set properly. However, bump springs are not necessary with this set up.
I just don't want this motor to be bashed because it is a great buy.
I’ve got 4 8500s and the issue is the Panel Remote units. Liftmaster has replaced all 4 controls without question.
You’re right it is a whimpy opener....when you install it on a door that size. You have a door that is right at the max limit of this opener. I would have never chosen an opener that is going to be pushed this hard. Another thing is that your cable tension sensor is installed upside down....could be a reason why it’s not functioning properly. This video is a bad review as a result of a poor install.
The 8500 can operate up to 14' tall doors. The springs lift the door, not the operator.
It's not lifting the door, it's lifting the springs...that's why there are springs there....your logic makes no sense.
Not sure if you work on doors for a living or not, but the above post is correct. The springs are there to counter balance the weight of the door. All the opener is doing is rotating the shaft. There should be little to no effort required by the opener in order to open/close the door if your door is balanced correctly.
I have learned that the spring MUST HAVE the right tension on them, if/When you get the springs anjested just right, you will never have a problem with the 8500 opener. Trust me, I have been using mine for 3 years with out a single problem.
This video is 5 years old, but I couldn't agree more. I just had a Liftmaster 8500W installed for my 16x7 garage door. Unfortunately my local OverheadDoor company was happy to sell it to me. I thought it was pretty slick until the cables came off the drums the first week. Then they added cable keeper springs to help take the slack out. Now the cable keepers pop off occasionally and I'm looking at pusher springs.
Had I known this thing was so much trouble, I would have gone with a regular belt drive opener. What a pain!
Yep, my 8500 just spit both cables out to the floor when the close command was sent. Trying to figure out how to fix and why this even happened. Thanks for the comments. I learned a lot from those.
I have a beam. Our current trolley opener causes a height on the tracks that it's a real head smacker. These are a godsend.
For that application they work awesome.
It annoys me that the garage door jackshaft specs for door actuation max strength is not in the units of TORQUE…
This makes it impossible to assess max-min forces for a given door
My uneducated takeaway is :
It’s best to use this only on well balanced doors….
The guys who did my tracks did them wrong (butt end splices of straight to straight sections and a tight 15” radius for the 90 degree sweep
Thanks to that I have a door that requires positive force to lift it for the first 85 percent of travel but NEGATIVE force to push the door up the last 8”
Guessing this eliminates any chance of a jackshaft solution even though overhead can easily lift fifty and push back 30 pounds
Not easy to fix the tracks because the top rails are spot welded to the 90 degree sweep
Pitch the tracks more . Also if your worried about slacking cables they make cable tensioners that fit on the bottom bracket . Never had an issue with these motors . But on a door that big you should be using a commercial grade motor ! Be safe brother
Yep! I never liked those things either. Our garage has the LiftMaster AC motor chain drives, and I love them. I personally think having a visible opener on the ceiling only makes things look cooler. And I mean come on, those who say it makes things look cluttered? Seriously, it'a a garage! Not a living room! I never liked the idea of those things operating the door by the spring shaft and not the door itself, makes no sense on my opinion, and probably only makes things more difficult when spring replacement is required. Wouldn't work on our doors anyway, as they're extension spring.
Haha love it. I would totally agree do you want style or function because let's face it when the door fails and your stuck in you garage it's like losing power and it's the end of world lol.
I agree it is a garage and some people have car lifts in them so a center mount would not work! Also If it was installed correctly there would be no issues! But for doors that big I would have went with a commercial grade opener!
To everyone hating on this video (pin the comment)
1. The cable tension monitor can be installed either way. It works just as well
2. You can find a problem with pretty much every job. I bet if I looked at your 8500 installs I could find a problem with it.
3. The opener is replaced with a genie screw drive, so stop criticizing this install
4. Maybe if you listened to what he's saying about the opener instead of looking for things that are a problem, maybe this video will make more sense
I installed one of these
The limits would not set. It was either happy going this way or was happy going that way but it was never happy going both ways. In addition that wimpy little DC motor is probably made for hollow thin gauge aluminum doors. I have a wood door this sounded like an old car starter with a dead battery😞 my opinion stick with the overhead or buy a commercial side mount and it's pretty expensive for a box of rocks and whatever you do DONT BUY FROM 365 garage door. Their support is actually worse than Liftmaster
( if you can believeve that)
A door that big with any type of jackshaft opener .. And jack shaft drive has been around longer then we have both been alive .so its not a new idea, should have cable keepers or spring pushers installed in the rear .
I can hear the frustration we’ve ALL FELT in the field/heat of the moment especially when we’re cleaning up our techs work/playing detective to identify the problem and long term solution for ourselves/customer. That being said, unfortunately that motor is THE BEST version CGI made (IMO 24VDC motor, strong lock), their latest version in sure you’re familiar with the 8500W is even worse! (Weak 12VDC motor, weak Auto Lock). I beta tested the Genie 6070/6170 starting 2years ago, and I KNOW I KNOW most people have their opinion of Genie but I swear to you all of their “RELIA-G” line (black Motörhead’s normally used in builder packages) are GREAT! They are what we USED to get from LM’s DC line! The 10/1128+20/2128+3020/3120+6070/6170 are all the same platform. Strong and reliable 24VDC motor, chain or belt. (1-pallet of heads + mix/match belt/chain rails I don’t sell chain but if you’re in new construction you may find that useful) 1000 series has less warranty and less soft stop/start (programmed in the board), 2000 series motor warranty/soft stop/start, 3000 on the same tier as 8550 but BETTER! Finally the point of this the 6170 24VDC jackshaft which includes stronger motor, and CABLE TENSIONERS, No Cable tension monitor + their Auto lock fits right into the standard vertical track “knockouts” oh and they mount with STANDARD track bolt & 7/16 nuts! Installer/homeowners dream! Liftmaster is in the same place genie was after genies buyout in 1995, they’re raising prices while lowering quality cutting corners on product and riding on their market dominance. In 1995 you couldn’t have told a dealer in the country Genie was about to lose 75% market share, but it happened due to these same factors. Good luck to you!
The sensor is mounted upside down, it is way more touchy upside down.
I'm not a professional garage door or gate guy, but I think you pros installed the tension sensor is upside down....easy fix
it's easy for the 'pros' to bash the product when they don't know how to install the thing. Their answer is don't do it right, just go back to what they know. I wonder if they still watch VHS because the blu-rays just aren't working properly.
they are reversible and can be installed either way
I had two of these nice idea piece of junk opener. I have 12" radius rails and in the summer it usually comes down no problem although the thing has so much wire rope slack when closing it's just a matter of time before the wire comes off the drum. In the winter I have to reach up and help it down for a few inches.
Too many idiot say add weight that have no idea how a door opens. Sure if the door is installed in a manner that its not fully opened you have more downward weight whats the stinking point of that
How did you end up fixing this door?Been installing 20yrs and just started installing these and think I’m done with this model,I went back on a cable tension failure two days ago and I’m about to start drinking again 🤣😫😤can’t get it to close smooth enough for the cables not to loosen.Enjoy your channel 👍
I installed a Genie screw drive and have never went back since. Been nice with no call backs. Now I just drink when I want to 😄
Can you bypass the black cable sensor?
Great question I’m not sure.
I have the 8500W problem i have is when garage door is shutting soon as it hits the floor the door goes back up, it doent fo it every time but there are times it will close then goes right back up, i oiled all hinges on door & roller pins, i think the cable tensioner roller may be failing its annoying having to keep clicking the remote to go back down, was crious if anyone ekse has experienced this problem, may be the force adjustment that needs adjusted?
Sounds like it’s out of adjustment. Might have to get a service tech out to see what they think.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 figured it out was the force travel adjustment
What similar model garage door opener would you suggest that is better than the Lift Master 8500?
So with that customer I installed a Genie screw drive never went back after that. I have installed 3 Genie residential Jackshaft openers with no call backs yet and they are about 1 year 1-1/2 out in the field working. Honestly we just don't install Jackshaft on residential unless they don't have the room or something is in the way.
I’m starting to agree with you. My 8500 just started making this terrible cable grinding noise. Meanwhile, my 8500W right next to it is doing fine.
What you need are pusher springs! I have encountered this on a RV garage 10x13. The springs mount to the end of the horizontal track and push the door down helping maintain cable tension
Daniel Trousdale Yes funny story 2 months after I did install pusher sprigs the door failed again so anyone want a used 8500 it will be up for sale soon lol.
I had to install helper springs with my small 9x7 door but made a mistake. I ordered the shorter version and just when they should help maintain tension on cables I'm out of spring. If I ordered the longer ones it would be ok. The 8500 goes from slower to higher speed and that is where the problem can occur. I did have to eliminate the slack cable switch as it would cause problems when changing speeds.
I absolutely LOVE the 8500 jackshaft operator! I won't install anything else. Its just a matter of learning the tricks of the trade.
yeah,,,it has more things to fail...I bought B750 belt drive and really like it and it just works!
That's awesome. Who wants to make life harder not me lol.
First off, turn your phone so you're shooting landscape!
A door that big should have a commercial opener.
You mentioned pusher springs but you never did actually try them?
Works great now just installed that genie screw drive no call backs anymore.
I agree I don't like those open was either I love the old designs like the LiftMaster 1260
I enjoyed your video. I thoughtbi was the only person who hated my 8500. I have a 2 post car lift and I'm pretty sure i cant do the normal style opener. I pitched the track about as far as i can get it to go. I even released some spring tention. You pull the release on the motor. You better be ready cause the door is coming down fast. If i run it down with the motor. It still spins the cables off. Can you post the spring door pusher patt number so i can try those on my 10x10 insulated doors before someone ( me ) gets hurt here. Please and thank you
I just had the small 10x10 door installed in the side of my pole barn and they put one of these on it, the next day I noticed the bottom of the motor was moving back and fourth about 2 in ?
But the door works fine, looks like I can see the end of the shaft coming out of the motor going up and down like its bent ? I don't think that motor should be moving do you
Probably should take a video of it and send it to whoever installed it sounds like it's not mounted correctly.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 I would but it was all Amish crew, they did great on the whole shop flawless but they have one weird phone, its not right I'm going to look into it more,
I understand the amish. See what you can do.
Cable keepers for the Win
This door needs pusher springs mounted on the tracks....they should have been there on the initial install, i never sell or install jackshaft openers without pusher springs.....
The LiftMaster LJ8900W would have been a better motor if the customer insisted on a Jackshaft. But I too would have installed an overhead motor. Have you seen Genie's new 6170 model? They don't have a cable tension monitor. It's a pretty solid design.
Good to hear from you SOS. You know how you posted something so long ago and forget about cause the customer never calls back. That's when you know you made the right choice lol. I have a new genie Jackshaft at the shop that I haven't tried yet but hopefully soon.
@@affordabledoorgatellc7391 Absolutely. The 8500 to me was those first series of iPhones. They were great for their time but they we also plagued with bugs and problems. I'm glad you have had no troubles with the Genie motor since then.
2:56 what kind of book is it?
It’s just from Service Spring a vendor. Great company. They will send you one if you call.
@affordabledoorgatellc7391 thank you very much ✌️
Do you know about any Canadian vendors like service spring?
Unfortunately I don’t sorry
I know I’m late as shit on the comment. Those sensors are a pain in the ass. Luckily, now they have did away with them but I think it looked like the cable sensor was upside down.
Also- the cable sensor is mounted up side down
🙄
Add cable tensioner and your problem is solved
BOOM!
I thought Wayne Dalton had the best design when they made them aside from gear being plastic inside. Mounted over the center of the door. I wish they'd bring back a modified version of that.
I drive? sweew.. junk
Not this boy. I had a customer who's IDrive litterally over heated & started a small fire, but fortunetly for the owner, he had 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling & it only scortched the sheetrock. The Wayne Dalton Torquemaster spring had broke & when the owner was trying to open the door with their remote, the motor overheated & flamed.
The balance has to be perfect
I'm building a garage. 2 doors are 9W x 8H, my guy is putting the 8500c it is rated "light commercial" my two 12W x 10H he is putting "commercial duty" he has been doing it for 30year and knows his shit. I say your install is wrong. He just told me how he shows up and can tell you what is wrong before going up the ladder. The other guys take four hours and still don't know. If your guy is leaving you to fix it, then he probably installed it wrong because it doesn't work correctly. Things only work and last if they are done right the first time.
Saw a ton of videos promoting them and how great they are. I found these videos indicating how worthless they are after I purchased two. Wasted a grand for junk.
The anti roll sensor for the cable is mounted the wrong way better reread your install manual on the installation of it
Everyone in the garage door business knows you dont use jackshaft style operators on standard lift door unless its only way with a heavy duty commercial jackshaft with a brake and push down springs. Then the cost is big time. I couldnt agree with you more. A longer opener than door with extended arm length is so much better on slightly hi lifted residential doors. i would have enjoyed working with you. Love liftmaster, hate the res. shaft drive. Wanna talk junk... W.D. I drive. now that was worst piece of shit i ever saw.
O the I drive wow those were nothing but call backs and losing money haha.
good pt
What garage door opener do you recommend for a tight clearance situation
J. W. Do you have 2" between the door and ceiling?
AFFORDABLE DOOR & GATE LLC I will measure and get back to you. It’s pretty tight but not that tight I don’t think but will look for sure. Thanks for the quick reply.
J. W. No problem take a picture and send it to my phone if you can. 2317209788.
I only install them on 18r or better.
Side note NEVER INSTALL ON LOWHEAD with reverse turn springs. Motor thinks it’s opening one closing so if you walk through the photo wise the door will hit you.
Daddy Bear you can install them on reverse wound drums and on lowhead. You have to mound the opener upside down/backwards for the limits and safety reverse to work correctly and don’t forget your pusher springs. I haven’t had to do it yet but I’ve seen it done.
I agree! My father and own and operate a small garage door company here in WA st. (Rodgers Garage Door)
Where are you located Dave?
Muskegon MI next to Lake Michigan.
basically
you can best take the 750 from flexiforce
Thanks for the feedback. #PleaseHoldYourPhoneSidewaysForVideoRecording
Roger that still in training lol.
John Deere, Monte Carlo, lifted old Chevy, 12’ ladder
Put the right springs on and it won’t have slack
First of all genie screw drive sucks ass.
2nd flip tensioner the right way
3rd add cable saver to bottom fixture
Reset limits and force to be safe
Ta da problem solved.
Been doin this shit for a looooong time
Good vid Dave! 8500 JackCRAP opener!
Haha that made me laugh. Just wish customers could look past the beauty of it and understand you want function over beauty. I say we install them and when the truck leaves the driveway it's out of warranty lol.
What book is that? Denco? What about cable tensioner?
Andrew Sosa . I will post a updated video on the 8500. I took it out last week and put up a genie opener.
Wrong.
How to Install a Chamberlain Wall Mount Garage Door Opener, Model RJO20
ruclips.net/video/urYC9WWnoeA/видео.html
It's called bumper springs. Hire a technician that actually knows what he's doing. Service plan? Gtfo
No problem now just installed a genie screw drive runs like a champ.