nice video good info. seeing how the rod hits the band really works. is it possible for the rod to go past the hook while driving down the freeway? trying to self diagnose my 3/4 neutral. and its not the snap ring.. anyways Thanks
@DB Walker sorry for late reply. Does the vehicle continue to drive in 2nd gear? Or it looses gear when you get to the point where you should shift into 3rd? I guess another way to ask this, does it stay in 2nd? Reverse ok? It might be your shift solenoids. Easy to replace without pulling engine. Do you have any engine codes?
@@DrivingIntelligence hi no codes, drives normal 1st 2nd gear when it goes to shift into 3rd it neutrals out no OD either reverse is fine.. ive pulled valve body down od servo still in with no broken snap rings. the 2/3 accumulator fell out but no broken springs.. i did not take the od servo out? may i should have? i was told if od band broke i would still have 3rd, also if OD valve in valve body defective i would still have 3rd.. i replace shift solenoid no go dont think it could be the pressure solenoid or OD solenoid because i would still have 3rd gear.. i guess there is no 3/4 band, still learning..
Awesome, looks pretty simple. Ive got a 98 explorer 5.0 with a 4r70w, has a hard shift from 1-2 so im thinking replacing that 1-2 accumulator, along with new filter and fluid should fix it. Im gonna order the parts here soon. Thanks!
Man you got me! Super excited! Getting ready to order all this stuff and throw it in my transmission. Hope it fixes my shifting issues. By the sounds of it it should. I will report back
What kind of shifting issues are you having? Changing these items plus a valve body rebuild will improve fluid management in the transmission and improve shift performance. But it depends on the problem.
So, I've seen the issue with the overdrive pin and it's correction before. If you're working from under the vehicle, is there any such concern or fix for the reverse piston, or does that band fall naturally onto the pin?
Unfortunately, the business I bought mine from is no longer selling them. The link to this business is in the description of my video. There are videos showing how to build one from box steel.
I’m wondering if you can point me in the right direction. I have a 2002 F150 5.4 FX4 that developed a rough shift from 2nd to 3rd at low rpm’s especially when warm but normal at higher rpm’s. It’s at 130,000 Miles. Just recently it began doing this jerk at when accelerating from stops. Like the torque converter is abruptly locking from neutral when I give it gas. Another way of describing it is it is like it is in neutral after holding the brake and when I let go at times it’ feels like I am shifting from neutral to drive. I’ve heard that the 2/3 accumulator is also responsible for “forward engagement”. Could the 2/3 accumulator be responsible for these issues?
If the 2-3 shift accumulator is bad, you won’t get third gear. If it’s leaking, you’ll get a sloppy shift from 2nd to 3rd. Based on what you’re telling me, my assumption is that you have problems with the valve body. There are a multitude of valves in the valve body that impact shift quality. Take a look at this webpage which can help isolate problem areas: www.transmissiondigest.com/critical-wear-areas-vacuum-test-locations-2/
I need to replace the springs in the transmission. Can you please tell me if the springs that are in the video will fit the ford f150 1998 Triton V8 4.6?
Hi, all the parts I used are in the description with Amazon Links. If you want accumulator springs, you get most of what you need here: Shift Technologies Shift Kit for 4R70W - amzn.to/30jf8RX - I suggest if you do this, you also get these parts: AODE 4R70W Piston Set 1990 and UP - amzn.to/2E3TNAL - these will work with a 4R70W Transmission which is likely what you have in your truck.
I may have an issue with my 2/3 accumulator. The transmission shifts great through out all the gears as I accelerate and also down shift with no issues. But when I slow down to 18 or 19 mph and accelerate again, it seems as though either its accelerating very slowly or in neutral. I have to step off the gas and then apply the gas again slowly for it to pick up speed again as normal. Its the 4r70w transmission in an 05 crown vic. It might be a stupid question but what state are you located in, maybe I can drive to you so you can help me fix this issue and I can pay you because the mechanics around my area don't seem to know what to do or they keep sending me to other places.
Thanks for your comment and considering me to help you get your Crown Vic right... let's start with some basics: 1) do you have any diagnostic trouble codes? 2) have you recently removed the pan and installed fresh fluid and a filter? This could be caused by several issues like a faulty TPS, bad shift solenoids, bad accumulator, leaky separator plate and on and on.
@@DrivingIntelligence no, I have not changes the transmission fluid or have any diagnostic codes. I checked those with blue driver obd2 and nothing. Also I'd like to correct myself; it's not the 2-3 accumulator but the 1-2 accumulator most likely because everytime this happens at around 18 mph after breaking to that speed and accelerating again, the engine wines the same way it does at 1st great except it wines faster since at that speed it should already be at 2nd gear. It's as if I had a menual transmission and I didn't shift into 2nd when I was supposed to. So it must be the 1-2 accumulator because only thr 1st gear wines like that. As far as the TPS. Don't think that's the issue since the accelartor peddle is responsive all other times as well as when the transmission hesitates to shift to 2nd gear. It may not shift right away but the engine does respond well to accelerator input. Another thing is, the 1-2 hesitation seem to happen once the engine warms up. Also, at lower accelaration 1st changes to 2nd at around 10 mph and at faster accelaration, 1st changes to 2nd at around 16 mph if that makes any difference. Thank you for replying and I appreciate any input or advice.
@@aeylxb3472 it sounds like it could be the 1-2 accumulator, and you are in luck. You don't need to remove the valve body to replace that accumulator. The springs or spring in the 1-2 accumulator have been know to fail / break. You could drop your pan, change your filter, fluid and the 1-2 accumulator and associated springs, and see how that works out. By the way, I'm in South Carolina.
@@DrivingIntelligence Strangely the issue has begun slowly subsiding and then I realized that the only thing that I have done differently was unplug my blue driver OBD2 from the port. So it must have been that, which was causing it since it has always been plugged in. It must've messed with the computer. I spoke to one of the mechanics from Ford service and he told me you are not supposed to leave anything plugged in for prolonged period of time. Another issue I'm having is a humming sound coming from the front end between the 1 and 2 gear while accelerating and only happens if i slow down to around 18 mph. I read that it could be a dirty IAC. Anyways I'm really not sure what the issue is but I will try to figure it out.
Would I need the 1-2 accumulator if my transmission isn’t going into drive. It works in reverse. When I was driving my car to work I made a hard turn and it won’t go just rev’d up not engaging into drive
That is hard to diagnose via messages. Have you checked your transmission fluid? Full? If you put your truck in 2nd gear, does it move? Do you have a check engine light and if so, any codes?
@@DrivingIntelligence I have the same issue Sammy has. Fluid is good, and also seems clean. Reverse works. If I put into 2nd, the vehicle won't roll backward. If I put into 1st and hold down the revs, several seconds later it will go into gear and hold that gear perfectly for a while. Does that sound like the 1-2 accumulator? (2004 Ford F150)
@@DadBodForever I doubt that problem is the 1-2 accumulator. Sounds like your bands are slipping. Have you pulled your pan to see if you have any friction material buildup?
@@DrivingIntelligence I did but there didn’t seem to be anything more than what I’d expect. I did notice, when disassembling the valve body, that the separator plate has a hairline crack close to the 2-3 accumulator. Apparently it is caused by bowing of the plate in this area. Could this prevent the forward clutch from engaging?
I watched your first video earlier today and I was like yeah I don't think that's going to fix mine.. I believe my problem is that 3-4 accumulator which I don't know if it's possible to change that in the truck.. I think that's the only thing wrong with mine I'm guessing the spring broke or the seal failed? My issue is my trucks downshifting so hard from overdrive that you'd think it's about to break something and I'm driving it around with overdrive off. Thanks for the video! You gotta keep that truck now forever lol.. I did my dodge ram v10 a few years ago I'm never getting rid of it unless that transmission breaks again lol
Nice truck, and wow, a V10? nice... with regard to your 3-4 accumulator, you can replace while in truck by removing the valve body and using the special tool I show in my video. It's gonna be messy! The hard downshift is a concern, could be many reasons for this. Does it do this downshifting from any other gears? Stay tuned, my tranny is starting to make me worry again, only slightly. The truck shudders in 4th which tells me it's finally time to get my other transmission rebuilt and installed in this truck. I'll be doing videos on the rebuild.
@@DrivingIntelligence no sir only seems to be a highway thing concerning overdrive.. I've yet to pull the pan. It drives fine other than that I'd say it started as a shutter more of a bucking almost now of flare shift that can't hold overdrive
@@DrivingIntelligence and the v10 I have is the Dodge 2500 v10 8.0 4x4 it's the truck from the movie twister.. it's more powerful than the stock diesel but alot quieter
based on this comment, I would say you have either a torque converter problem, or a problem with controlling the fluid circuits in your valve body. What you described is exactly how my issue started. My first video is what I did to get rid of this shudder. ruclips.net/video/YwPMiS6sMtI/видео.html
nice video good info. seeing how the rod hits the band really works. is it possible for the rod to go past the hook while driving down the freeway? trying to self diagnose my 3/4 neutral. and its not the snap ring.. anyways Thanks
Hi DB, you truck goes into neutral when it shifts to overdrive? Does it drive normally when you turn off the OD?
@@DrivingIntelligence yes but i only have 1st and 2nd does not go into 3rd
im thinking i may have lost the 3/4 band? just cant believe it..
@DB Walker sorry for late reply. Does the vehicle continue to drive in 2nd gear? Or it looses gear when you get to the point where you should shift into 3rd? I guess another way to ask this, does it stay in 2nd? Reverse ok? It might be your shift solenoids. Easy to replace without pulling engine. Do you have any engine codes?
@@DrivingIntelligence hi no codes, drives normal 1st 2nd gear when it goes to shift into 3rd it neutrals out no OD either reverse is fine.. ive pulled valve body down od servo still in with no broken snap rings. the 2/3 accumulator fell out but no broken springs.. i did not take the od servo out? may i should have? i was told if od band broke i would still have 3rd, also if OD valve in valve body defective i would still have 3rd.. i replace shift solenoid no go dont think it could be the pressure solenoid or OD solenoid because i would still have 3rd gear.. i guess there is no 3/4 band, still learning..
Awesome, looks pretty simple. Ive got a 98 explorer 5.0 with a 4r70w, has a hard shift from 1-2 so im thinking replacing that 1-2 accumulator, along with new filter and fluid should fix it. Im gonna order the parts here soon. Thanks!
Good call, the spring(s) in the 1-2 accumulator have a tendency to brake in the 4R70W
Thank you sir.
Very welcome
I know this old post but the Jmod upgrade says to remove the 1-2 upper springs for faster engagement
Thanks for that input. Good to know.
Man you got me! Super excited! Getting ready to order all this stuff and throw it in my transmission. Hope it fixes my shifting issues. By the sounds of it it should. I will report back
What kind of shifting issues are you having? Changing these items plus a valve body rebuild will improve fluid management in the transmission and improve shift performance. But it depends on the problem.
Where can I buy all of this ?
All the links to parts and tools are in my video description. Let me know if you have a problem accessing any of the items.
So, I've seen the issue with the overdrive pin and it's correction before. If you're working from under the vehicle, is there any such concern or fix for the reverse piston, or does that band fall naturally onto the pin?
That band falls naturally to the pin. Doesn’t require the same install.
Do you have part numbers for the accumulator piston set by chance?
I don’t have the part number, but the Amazon product links are in the description of my video.
where did you get the shift servo compression tool? I see a part number on it but no link to where you can buy it.
Thanks
Here is the site for the part: www.badshoeproductions.com/tools.html looks like out of stock.
Where can i get the tool to replace the acumulator
Unfortunately, the business I bought mine from is no longer selling them. The link to this business is in the description of my video. There are videos showing how to build one from box steel.
I’m wondering if you can point me in the right direction. I have a 2002 F150 5.4 FX4 that developed a rough shift from 2nd to 3rd at low rpm’s especially when warm but normal at higher rpm’s. It’s at 130,000 Miles. Just recently it began doing this jerk at when accelerating from stops. Like the torque converter is abruptly locking from neutral when I give it gas. Another way of describing it is it is like it is in neutral after holding the brake and when I let go at times it’ feels like I am shifting from neutral to drive. I’ve heard that the 2/3 accumulator is also responsible for “forward engagement”. Could the 2/3 accumulator be responsible for these issues?
If the 2-3 shift accumulator is bad, you won’t get third gear. If it’s leaking, you’ll get a sloppy shift from 2nd to 3rd. Based on what you’re telling me, my assumption is that you have problems with the valve body. There are a multitude of valves in the valve body that impact shift quality. Take a look at this webpage which can help isolate problem areas: www.transmissiondigest.com/critical-wear-areas-vacuum-test-locations-2/
So on my 2008 p71 i don't have 1st and od but 2/3 works but when i took off the valve body to inspect it the 2/3 servo came off so now im in a stump
looks like you need a full set of shift accumulators. Check out the link in the description of this video.
I need to replace the springs in the transmission. Can you please tell me if the springs that are in the video will fit the ford f150 1998 Triton V8 4.6?
Hi, all the parts I used are in the description with Amazon Links. If you want accumulator springs, you get most of what you need here: Shift Technologies Shift Kit for 4R70W - amzn.to/30jf8RX - I suggest if you do this, you also get these parts: AODE 4R70W Piston Set 1990 and UP - amzn.to/2E3TNAL - these will work with a 4R70W Transmission which is likely what you have in your truck.
I may have an issue with my 2/3 accumulator. The transmission shifts great through out all the gears as I accelerate and also down shift with no issues. But when I slow down to 18 or 19 mph and accelerate again, it seems as though either its accelerating very slowly or in neutral. I have to step off the gas and then apply the gas again slowly for it to pick up speed again as normal. Its the 4r70w transmission in an 05 crown vic. It might be a stupid question but what state are you located in, maybe I can drive to you so you can help me fix this issue and I can pay you because the mechanics around my area don't seem to know what to do or they keep sending me to other places.
Thanks for your comment and considering me to help you get your Crown Vic right... let's start with some basics: 1) do you have any diagnostic trouble codes? 2) have you recently removed the pan and installed fresh fluid and a filter? This could be caused by several issues like a faulty TPS, bad shift solenoids, bad accumulator, leaky separator plate and on and on.
@@DrivingIntelligence no, I have not changes the transmission fluid or have any diagnostic codes. I checked those with blue driver obd2 and nothing. Also I'd like to correct myself; it's not the 2-3 accumulator but the 1-2 accumulator most likely because everytime this happens at around 18 mph after breaking to that speed and accelerating again, the engine wines the same way it does at 1st great except it wines faster since at that speed it should already be at 2nd gear. It's as if I had a menual transmission and I didn't shift into 2nd when I was supposed to. So it must be the 1-2 accumulator because only thr 1st gear wines like that. As far as the TPS. Don't think that's the issue since the accelartor peddle is responsive all other times as well as when the transmission hesitates to shift to 2nd gear. It may not shift right away but the engine does respond well to accelerator input. Another thing is, the 1-2 hesitation seem to happen once the engine warms up. Also, at lower accelaration 1st changes to 2nd at around 10 mph and at faster accelaration, 1st changes to 2nd at around 16 mph if that makes any difference. Thank you for replying and I appreciate any input or advice.
@@aeylxb3472 it sounds like it could be the 1-2 accumulator, and you are in luck. You don't need to remove the valve body to replace that accumulator. The springs or spring in the 1-2 accumulator have been know to fail / break. You could drop your pan, change your filter, fluid and the 1-2 accumulator and associated springs, and see how that works out. By the way, I'm in South Carolina.
@@DrivingIntelligence Strangely the issue has begun slowly subsiding and then I realized that the only thing that I have done differently was unplug my blue driver OBD2 from the port. So it must have been that, which was causing it since it has always been plugged in. It must've messed with the computer. I spoke to one of the mechanics from Ford service and he told me you are not supposed to leave anything plugged in for prolonged period of time. Another issue I'm having is a humming sound coming from the front end between the 1 and 2 gear while accelerating and only happens if i slow down to around 18 mph. I read that it could be a dirty IAC. Anyways I'm really not sure what the issue is but I will try to figure it out.
Interesting, I ran my Bluedriver for months with no problem using data log. Check out this video for the IAC valve and noise
Would I need the 1-2 accumulator if my transmission isn’t going into drive. It works in reverse. When I was driving my car to work I made a hard turn and it won’t go just rev’d up not engaging into drive
That is hard to diagnose via messages. Have you checked your transmission fluid? Full? If you put your truck in 2nd gear, does it move? Do you have a check engine light and if so, any codes?
@@DrivingIntelligence I have the same issue Sammy has. Fluid is good, and also seems clean. Reverse works. If I put into 2nd, the vehicle won't roll backward. If I put into 1st and hold down the revs, several seconds later it will go into gear and hold that gear perfectly for a while. Does that sound like the 1-2 accumulator? (2004 Ford F150)
@@DadBodForever I doubt that problem is the 1-2 accumulator. Sounds like your bands are slipping. Have you pulled your pan to see if you have any friction material buildup?
@@DrivingIntelligence I did but there didn’t seem to be anything more than what I’d expect. I did notice, when disassembling the valve body, that the separator plate has a hairline crack close to the 2-3 accumulator. Apparently it is caused by bowing of the plate in this area. Could this prevent the forward clutch from engaging?
Also to follow up, I did remove the 1-2 accumulator, and sure enough it was intact and in good condition.
I watched your first video earlier today and I was like yeah I don't think that's going to fix mine.. I believe my problem is that 3-4 accumulator which I don't know if it's possible to change that in the truck.. I think that's the only thing wrong with mine I'm guessing the spring broke or the seal failed? My issue is my trucks downshifting so hard from overdrive that you'd think it's about to break something and I'm driving it around with overdrive off. Thanks for the video! You gotta keep that truck now forever lol.. I did my dodge ram v10 a few years ago I'm never getting rid of it unless that transmission breaks again lol
Nice truck, and wow, a V10? nice... with regard to your 3-4 accumulator, you can replace while in truck by removing the valve body and using the special tool I show in my video. It's gonna be messy! The hard downshift is a concern, could be many reasons for this. Does it do this downshifting from any other gears? Stay tuned, my tranny is starting to make me worry again, only slightly. The truck shudders in 4th which tells me it's finally time to get my other transmission rebuilt and installed in this truck. I'll be doing videos on the rebuild.
@@DrivingIntelligence no sir only seems to be a highway thing concerning overdrive.. I've yet to pull the pan. It drives fine other than that I'd say it started as a shutter more of a bucking almost now of flare shift that can't hold overdrive
@@DrivingIntelligence and the v10 I have is the Dodge 2500 v10 8.0 4x4 it's the truck from the movie twister.. it's more powerful than the stock diesel but alot quieter
based on this comment, I would say you have either a torque converter problem, or a problem with controlling the fluid circuits in your valve body. What you described is exactly how my issue started. My first video is what I did to get rid of this shudder. ruclips.net/video/YwPMiS6sMtI/видео.html