Get yourself an under-hoist jack/stabilizer. You can prop it under the opposite end of the vehicle you are working on to really help eliminate that sketchy rocking. Highly recommended for any hoist, especially if you are dealing with longer vehicles, like pickups. They are also useful with many jobs, like engine/trans mounts, suspension, helping to support long exhaust sections.
I believe the max height of this lift is around 72" (6-ft) which is plenty for mechanical work, as well as fabrication and welding projects. Another plus is your concrete floor only needs to be approx 4-inches thick and assuming rebarb construction. No need to tear out for newer thicker concrete pad, nor drilling into the floor for inserts.
Another option is the mobile 2-post MAXJAX lift, but the max height is 48-inches and must be anchored into the concrete floor via inserts. Also, you must determine if your garage/shop floor is Post Tension slab construction or plain rebarb, prior to drilling.
The MaxJax was an option at one point as an additional lift but the space (length) in my other bay is my issue. I bought Quickjacks to try them out first cause I can take them to the track.
Are u able to show how you load your lowered car onto the hoist and clear the undercarriage without moving it into place. Or least how you use wood to clear the arms that swing out. Im just trying to visualize what the best method is without sliding / moving the hoist into position. I want to be-able to drive right on top. I have a really low na1 nsx :( A quick video would be great. Thanks.
It shouldn’t be too hard to make a video. I just use wood to clear the center section. Most cars clear it but a lowered Miata need additional wood. I have pieces that I put together so the arms can swing out. I currently have a car on there so it might take me a week to get to it.
might be able to use some 2x10 or 12's to assist driving over the ramp a bit...and i would get 2 extra tall jack stands (i think i saw some for about 100 bucks each)..would greatly help stability and still be out of the way
Thanks on the video comment, garage comment, & kid comment. On the assembly, I used an engine host and my wife as a helper. The biggest thing was to get the column right up and placed on the lower section. After that... easy.
Nice setup. I have an e36 M3, e46 M3, and e92 M3 - but only space to store 2 cars. Would you be worried about using it for long-term storage (assuming either the e36 or e46 would be in the air, the e92 is too porky 😀)?
Hmm… for storing a car long term is probably not what I would use it for. When I do have something on there for a while I’ll put a stand to help the load. It’s more money but would take a looking at something like in the link below. A friend of mine has his Porsche GT3 stored on one like it. Also much easier to load the car on then the one I have. www.mytoolequipmentguy.com/tuxedo-sp-6k-ss-6-000-lb-single-post-parking-storage-lift/
I'm concerned that I could never get my cars onto this lift. Toyota MR2's. They are both lowered a decent amount. I'm sure I'd have to come up with some unique method with stepped wooden blocks, etc. I have a thee car garage but limited in width as it's only a little over 31' wide where I would want to mostly have the lift placed at. Also I like the idea this can be rolled outside to my 14x21 cement pad if I needed to. I have 11'2" ceilings so definetely want full lift. thanks
I just use 2x4’s as I have a lot of them. 2x6’s works awesomely as I have 2 that I sometime use. I make sure that I have the wood clear the arms that swing out as you’ll need to remove them. Only 1 really lowered Miata I had to double stack the 2x4’s to clear the undercarriage.
@@tekmotorsports4052 thank you. Makes sense. Also I see you can just put the car into position by driving the car up onto wood to get the car high enough. Then just slide the lift in from the side instead of driving over it. I mean if you have the space to do that.
@@toddk4115 Yeah, if you have the space. I’m planning on making ramps cut to fit out of 2x6’s to easily get the car on the lift. I’m looking at getting a mid-scissor lift for the other side but the one I want, I’ll have to cut into the floor for a flush mounted lift. Not really wanting to do that. We’ll see.
@@tekmotorsports4052 Yes two things about scissors lifts. They are mid-rise lifts unless you have 8+ grand to get a full rise scissor lift. You can get portable mid rise scissor lifts but not full rise as far as I know. Also if they are not portable it will always be in the way. And you're right about cutting the floor. If you are pouring concrete for a new garage it's one thing but cutting up your good floor is nerve racking for sure. I've also been looking at the C-7000 portable two post full rise lift. Just like Maxx Jax but goes full rise and you can move the posts with a dolly after unbolting them. That C-7000 and this lift in this video are my finalists right now but that may change as I do more research.
Yes, I do it all the time. I have the drivetrain on a toolbox and lower the car onto it. Just have to mindful of the length of the paint/cart as it will hit the lower blue bars.
Yes, you Can removed front/rear subframes. Can’t do a full frame tho. Engine and transmissions can be removed as well. The issue I have have is removing an full exhaust system. I have to remove it in sections. Hope this helps.
Well, I can say that I have replaced transmissions on cars but have not done any transfer cases. 99% of my work is on cars. What I have issues with the most is removing the exhaust from cars as the beam leaves little room to maneuver the exhaust out. Normally I lower the car on jackets, remove exhaust, and lift it back up.
Hey buddy thanks for the answer am planning to buy one Company call Garage appeal has special price $4.649 do you recommend any other Company you trust ? Does the Price sound fine to you. ? Thanks again for your help 👍🏼
@@jesusa9 I bought mine from Best Buy Equipment but I just checked their website and it looks like they do not carry it anymore. As far as pricing, they are through the roof compared to what a paid for mine 3yrs ago. There was a person on here that just bought one a few months back and he said it was around $4k for it.
I tried lifting an Audi S4 And found that centre beam was going to crush the resonators anyway to distance that beam from the body of the car ? Its too low to add any adapeters.
You’ll have to run the car on wood (2x4 or 2x6) so you can then use the adjusts. I have to do it on every lowered car on work on. The beam does get in the way sometimes.
How wide is it from one side to the other when you have a car on it? From the hadIebars. I have a center post in my garage and am concerned that will be the limiting factor to this fitting in my garage
I turn my handle so that I can push it as close to the wall as I can. Also, it lets me jack it up. It is 114.5” (let’s say 115”) from the jacking handle to the outside of the car. Hope this works for you.
Hello tks for the video I been looking at this lifts but I cant find any info on how tall the post is if you can tell me how tall the post is I would appreciate it thank you
The arms can be lifted while you move it around as I do it when I do move it. BUT… I have not had anything on it while moving it. You could add roll around dolleys at the other side to minimize any movement since it’s a body or frame.
What is the thickness of the center beam, I want to use it so I can park one car underneath the other but like you my ceiling is only a tad over 9 feet. Thanks
The center beam thickness is 13” across & 10” in depth. Now the base is 16.5” across and 13.5” in depth. BUT, the depth of the center beam with the pump attached is 21.5” in depth.
I’m looking at buying one .. would you feel safe to store a car underneath it? I have a 2 post also so it would be used strictly for stacking cars and saving room in the winter months
Yes, I feel it would be safe as long as you lower it down on the locks. I have not had a car stored on there no longer then 3 weeks as I use it a lot. Now, there are other signal post lifts that would work better for storing. Instead of it having the arms that swing out, it's a full drive on ramp. This way you don't have to deal with adjusting the arms. BUT... they might be more expensive. Here's a link on two different ones. The single post I have is mobile which leaned me more to it. This one is bolted to the floor. www.redlinestands.com/catalog/lifts-c-290/automotive-lifts-c-290_138/single-post-lifts-c-290_138_198/kernel-single-post-auto-storage-lift-p-592?msclkid=c1b986b53f4315276d3ce796b313b28c&Bing%20Shopping&Shopping This one is bolted to the floor. www.mytoolequipmentguy.com/triumph-nsp-6-0-6-000-lb-single-post-automotive-lift/
The best way I can describe it is that the car sways on the lift and it’s probably due to the single lift arm. While it’s on the lift it’s good but once you try to remove a real tight bolt (let’s say a lower bolt on a shock and using a regular ratchet), the force of loosening or tightening the bolt will make the car sway while on the lift. Hope that explains it better. I did do another video that I make the car sway on the lift by me just pushing on the bumper. Below is the link to the video. ruclips.net/video/GgwjnGuYIDQ/видео.html
j ai eu le mien chez twinbush pour 2500e en 2017 , made in china , fonctionne bien electro hydraulique , juste un joint spi a changer au tout debut sous garantie
@@meca325 I was just looking at those for a second lift but I didn't want to cut into my floor to make it flush. I didn't want the hoses on the floor as I need that space clear. I purchased a QuickJack lift instead. Now I have a lift at the track for my races. Win Win
Get yourself an under-hoist jack/stabilizer. You can prop it under the opposite end of the vehicle you are working on to really help eliminate that sketchy rocking. Highly recommended for any hoist, especially if you are dealing with longer vehicles, like pickups. They are also useful with many jobs, like engine/trans mounts, suspension, helping to support long exhaust sections.
Yeah, that is already on my list to purchase. Tall jack stands as I used to use when I would lift up motorcoaches at my old job. 👍
Also get yourself a lapel mic. It lets us understand what you're saying when more than about 3 feet from the camera.
Yes. That's what I even do on my 2 post lift. I always put on of those on atleast one end to allow me enough time to get out.
Very cool id prefer this over the floor or even a maxjacks
I believe the max height of this lift is around 72" (6-ft) which is plenty for mechanical work, as well as fabrication and welding projects. Another plus is your concrete floor only needs to be approx 4-inches thick and assuming rebarb construction. No need to tear out for newer thicker concrete pad, nor drilling into the floor for inserts.
Yeah, I know. It's been a really good lift so far.
Another option is the mobile 2-post MAXJAX lift, but the max height is 48-inches and must be anchored into the concrete floor via inserts. Also, you must determine if your garage/shop floor is Post Tension slab construction or plain rebarb, prior to drilling.
The MaxJax was an option at one point as an additional lift but the space (length) in my other bay is my issue. I bought Quickjacks to try them out first cause I can take them to the track.
Thanks for posting!
Are u able to show how you load your lowered car onto the hoist and clear the undercarriage without moving it into place.
Or least how you use wood to clear the arms that swing out.
Im just trying to visualize what the best method is without sliding / moving the hoist into position. I want to be-able to drive right on top. I have a really low na1 nsx :(
A quick video would be great. Thanks.
It shouldn’t be too hard to make a video. I just use wood to clear the center section. Most cars clear it but a lowered Miata need additional wood. I have pieces that I put together so the arms can swing out. I currently have a car on there so it might take me a week to get to it.
Attached is the link to the video you requested. Hope it answers your questions.
ruclips.net/video/RYLIafvRPYI/видео.html
might be able to use some 2x10 or 12's to assist driving over the ramp a bit...and i would get 2 extra tall jack stands (i think i saw some for about 100 bucks each)..would greatly help stability and still be out of the way
Yeah, thanks for the advice. It’s normal to me now but I’m looking into getting some jack stands.
Great video, thank you. How was the assembly ? Nice garage, cute kid too !
Thanks on the video comment, garage comment, & kid comment. On the assembly, I used an engine host and my wife as a helper. The biggest thing was to get the column right up and placed on the lower section. After that... easy.
Nice setup. I have an e36 M3, e46 M3, and e92 M3 - but only space to store 2 cars. Would you be worried about using it for long-term storage (assuming either the e36 or e46 would be in the air, the e92 is too porky 😀)?
Hmm… for storing a car long term is probably not what I would use it for. When I do have something on there for a while I’ll put a stand to help the load. It’s more money but would take a looking at something like in the link below. A friend of mine has his Porsche GT3 stored on one like it. Also much easier to load the car on then the one I have.
www.mytoolequipmentguy.com/tuxedo-sp-6k-ss-6-000-lb-single-post-parking-storage-lift/
I'm concerned that I could never get my cars onto this lift. Toyota MR2's. They are both lowered a decent amount. I'm sure I'd have to come up with some unique method with stepped wooden blocks, etc. I have a thee car garage but limited in width as it's only a little over 31' wide where I would want to mostly have the lift placed at. Also I like the idea this can be rolled outside to my 14x21 cement pad if I needed to. I have 11'2" ceilings so definetely want full lift. thanks
I just use 2x4’s as I have a lot of them. 2x6’s works awesomely as I have 2 that I sometime use. I make sure that I have the wood clear the arms that swing out as you’ll need to remove them. Only 1 really lowered Miata I had to double stack the 2x4’s to clear the undercarriage.
@@tekmotorsports4052 thank you. Makes sense. Also I see you can just put the car into position by driving the car up onto wood to get the car high enough. Then just slide the lift in from the side instead of driving over it. I mean if you have the space to do that.
@@toddk4115 Yeah, if you have the space. I’m planning on making ramps cut to fit out of 2x6’s to easily get the car on the lift. I’m looking at getting a mid-scissor lift for the other side but the one I want, I’ll have to cut into the floor for a flush mounted lift. Not really wanting to do that. We’ll see.
@@tekmotorsports4052 Yes two things about scissors lifts. They are mid-rise lifts unless you have 8+ grand to get a full rise scissor lift. You can get portable mid rise scissor lifts but not full rise as far as I know. Also if they are not portable it will always be in the way. And you're right about cutting the floor. If you are pouring concrete for a new garage it's one thing but cutting up your good floor is nerve racking for sure. I've also been looking at the C-7000 portable two post full rise lift. Just like Maxx Jax but goes full rise and you can move the posts with a dolly after unbolting them. That C-7000 and this lift in this video are my finalists right now but that may change as I do more research.
@@toddk4115 Decisions, decisions, decisions... I’m in no rush so I’ll keep looking. Need to maximize my space available.
Didn't realize it was mobile! seems like you get a lot of height too 👍
The height is a little less then a regular 2 post lift.
nice lift, I do have 3 series BMW you think I should be able to remove engine and trans together and that middle bar wont be on the way?
Thanks
Yes, I do it all the time. I have the drivetrain on a toolbox and lower the car onto it. Just have to mindful of the length of the paint/cart as it will hit the lower blue bars.
Can you do a subframe out or engine out job with this lift?.
Yes, you Can removed front/rear subframes. Can’t do a full frame tho. Engine and transmissions can be removed as well. The issue I have have is removing an full exhaust system. I have to remove it in sections. Hope this helps.
Can you Replace transmisión ?
What about transfer case. ?
Well, I can say that I have replaced transmissions on cars but have not done any transfer cases. 99% of my work is on cars. What I have issues with the most is removing the exhaust from cars as the beam leaves little room to maneuver the exhaust out. Normally I lower the car on jackets, remove exhaust, and lift it back up.
Hey buddy thanks for the answer am planning to buy one
Company call Garage appeal has special price $4.649 do you recommend any other Company you trust ?
Does the Price sound fine to you. ?
Thanks again for your help 👍🏼
Thanks for your time and help
@@jesusa9 I bought mine from Best Buy Equipment but I just checked their website and it looks like they do not carry it anymore. As far as pricing, they are through the roof compared to what a paid for mine 3yrs ago. There was a person on here that just bought one a few months back and he said it was around $4k for it.
I tried lifting an Audi S4 And found that centre beam was going to crush the resonators anyway to distance that beam from the body of the car ? Its too low to add any adapeters.
You’ll have to run the car on wood (2x4 or 2x6) so you can then use the adjusts. I have to do it on every lowered car on work on. The beam does get in the way sometimes.
How wide is it from one side to the other when you have a car on it? From the hadIebars. I have a center post in my garage and am concerned that will be the limiting factor to this fitting in my garage
I turn my handle so that I can push it as close to the wall as I can. Also, it lets me jack it up. It is 114.5” (let’s say 115”) from the jacking handle to the outside of the car. Hope this works for you.
Hello tks for the video I been looking at this lifts but I cant find any info on how tall the post is if you can tell me how tall the post is I would appreciate it thank you
The height of the lift as you saw it on the video is 102.5” (8’ 6 1/2”).
Can the lift be moved around while the arm is elevated (no car on the lift, obviously)? I'd like to use it to remove a body from a frame..
The arms can be lifted while you move it around as I do it when I do move it. BUT… I have not had anything on it while moving it. You could add roll around dolleys at the other side to minimize any movement since it’s a body or frame.
What is the thickness of the center beam, I want to use it so I can park one car underneath the other but like you my ceiling is only a tad over 9 feet. Thanks
The center beam thickness is 13” across & 10” in depth. Now the base is 16.5” across and 13.5” in depth. BUT, the depth of the center beam with the pump attached is 21.5” in depth.
I’m looking at buying one .. would you feel safe to store a car underneath it? I have a 2 post also so it would be used strictly for stacking cars and saving room in the winter months
Yes, I feel it would be safe as long as you lower it down on the locks. I have not had a car stored on there no longer then 3 weeks as I use it a lot. Now, there are other signal post lifts that would work better for storing. Instead of it having the arms that swing out, it's a full drive on ramp. This way you don't have to deal with adjusting the arms. BUT... they might be more expensive. Here's a link on two different ones. The single post I have is mobile which leaned me more to it.
This one is bolted to the floor.
www.redlinestands.com/catalog/lifts-c-290/automotive-lifts-c-290_138/single-post-lifts-c-290_138_198/kernel-single-post-auto-storage-lift-p-592?msclkid=c1b986b53f4315276d3ce796b313b28c&Bing%20Shopping&Shopping
This one is bolted to the floor.
www.mytoolequipmentguy.com/triumph-nsp-6-0-6-000-lb-single-post-automotive-lift/
What do you mean the car moves when loosening bolts?
The best way I can describe it is that the car sways on the lift and it’s probably due to the single lift arm. While it’s on the lift it’s good but once you try to remove a real tight bolt (let’s say a lower bolt on a shock and using a regular ratchet), the force of loosening or tightening the bolt will make the car sway while on the lift.
Hope that explains it better. I did do another video that I make the car sway on the lift by me just pushing on the bumper. Below is the link to the video.
ruclips.net/video/GgwjnGuYIDQ/видео.html
@@tekmotorsports4052 thank you, it make sense.
With the height how do you move it outside ? Your roller door seems lower
No, I do not move it outside. And correct, my garage door is too low to move outside.
hi, tell me what the biggest car in your opinion is, you lifted it on it
My BMW X5 AWD. I’ve seen bigger vehicles on some.
How high will it lift
@@MrDalew1 6 feet
Can you get it out of the garage
No sir… it’ll have to be partially disassembled.
Put a jack stand on the others side
@@Texmexpride Yep, bought one not too long after the video.
Where can I get that lift? are you in USA?
Best Buy Auto Equipment and Yes, I’m in the USA.
j ai eu le mien chez twinbush pour 2500e en 2017 , made in china , fonctionne bien electro hydraulique , juste un joint spi a changer au tout debut sous garantie
le sol doit etre trés propre si on veut le deplacer sinon le revetement du sol risque de s abimer avec les passages successif
@@meca325 I was just looking at those for a second lift but I didn't want to cut into my floor to make it flush. I didn't want the hoses on the floor as I need that space clear. I purchased a QuickJack lift instead. Now I have a lift at the track for my races. Win Win
@@meca325 It's actually not bad on my floor. I have moved it numerous times. If that is what you are asking? (damaging the floor when moving it)