Be careful drilling new holes and running multiple lag bolts. You said they are only 1/2" from each other. That is bad and definitely never going to be recommended by any OEM. The reason is that as you have seen in Fl., concrete can be quite brittle. Every time you drill a new hole, you are removing material which makes it much more prone to fracturing. It also makes the steel plate weaker. Concrete is strong in compression but very week in tension. If a lift twists or torques, some of those loads are the tension (pulling out) type. IMO, following the OEM directions, which an engineer carefully designed, and doing a correct install should work and should be safe. You even said each bolt can support 7k lbs. So clearly the weak point is the concrete. Ironically, adding more bolts might "potentially" make the system weaker. I don't know this to be a fact- that would require destructive testing. Regardless, an engineer would look at it as an "entire system" where the lift frame and feet work in concert with anchors and concrete. If multiple holes are drilled close together, an important link in that "system chain" is compromised. I believe the concrete base is the weak point. The first thing I would do is to install a new 8" deep high strength (7,500 lb.) concrete pad with rebar. You have to ask, why did those strong bolts start pulling out in the first place. The bolts are not the problem so adding more is not the solution. The foundation is the issue so you want to make sure it is very strong. If needed (not likely), some additional options "I" might consider (this is in no way advice- just what I might consider) is fabricating a steel frame to go around, the footing and spread out ~1 foot in each direction, beyond the footprint of the lifts feet. That way, the bolts don't have to be soo close together. This would preserve far more structural integrity for that concrete. This would not substitute the OEM directions. Some lags also need to be relatively near to the center of the footprint to keep it from moving and avoid generating torque leveraging. If it had to be 100% super strong and safe, and I wanted to over engineer it, I might dig out some (4) footings e.g., ~20" deep, then fill ~10" with high strength (7k lbs. vs. existing 4k) concrete "and" rebar, then lag the feet of the lift into that (per OEM instructions- no additional bolts.) Then using more rebar and 10" of concrete cover over that. Your solution might work, but I just don't like or trust multiple holes in now weakened (structurally) concrete. Also, others should not copy this example.
I'm working on heavy duty equipment in cement plants, when we have anchor bolts issues like that, we weld a 6" flatbar around the perimeter with the same thickness like the OEM plate and run additional anchor bolts with ~4" c-c distance, better safe than dead, I wouldn't add additional holes into the OEM plate, you weaken it
The 4000psi concrete mix is a COMPRESSION load not tension load. Tensile strength of that is at most is 700psi if it was mixed and cured properly. The anchors on the outside of the under cable lift are in TENSION when the lift is in a loaded condition. Doesn't matter how thick your slab is, only matters how deep the anchor is placed. That will be the figure used for actual load calculation. Also need to take shock load into consideration ie. wrenching and pulling in addition to a vehicle load. Be safe !
I remember you having a few questions about installing that lift . I tried telling you but you just have too many emails coming in. Glad you did not get hurt keep up the good videos congratulations on your viewership.
Interesting to hear that you had an issue with a Dorman part. My friend put a new Dorman guibo on his 3.0L Z3 coupe and it last about 1000 miles before he began to have a driveline vibration while accelerating. The Dorman disc looked worse then the 130K+ mile one we took out!!! I will avoid Dorman at all costs now. -Tim
Guy labels video snapped the lift, almost died. Lift didn’t snap, the underrated concrete failed, and after claiming almost died, proceeds to drill more holes too close together to guarantee someday it actually rips out and kills someone. Lots of comments on here advising you have compromised the fastening of this hoist, me included. Its a time bomb, cut the concrete out and do it proper.
Someone once said this to me about Dorman: “Don’t let it in the DoorMan!” Most Dorman stuff is poorly made Chinese product. Based on recent BMW videos I believe you wouldn’t put those products on your BMW’s so I’m surprised you would put them on your Toyotas. Also glad no vehicles fell on you. It’s rarely an instant death.
Anyone wanting a stronger joint can get much larger base plates cut by the steel supplier (get to know your local ones and get multiple quotes for anything expensive), weld them (using a proper welder or finding someone who does, 6011 stick rod is fine if you are limited to an AC buzzbox) to the cheap small stock base plates after drilling (you can rent mag drills and use a rotary broach to make it easy) then enjoy having as many more bolt holes on that load spreader as you care to add.
DORMAN HAVE THEIR AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET PARTS MADE IN CHINA !! So, absolutely no surprise at all the ball joint failed after 2 years. Genuine Parts are ALWAYS the way to go, yes, aftermarket are cheaper but just not made to O.E specification for fit, function and durability. As Mr.Dewar of Scotch Whiskey fame once said; “ Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten “
That s is interesting to me because My dad is a Cement Mason, and he reinforces foundations for lifts. He cuts out 2² blocks and then cuts 10" lines into the foundation like a # sign around the block and then replaces the crappy concrete with this new mud called PFC, but with an added twist. It's an ultra high strength Concrete that is usually reinforced with steel fiber, but he uses Carbon Fiber and the end result is the world's strongest Concrete mix - regular Concrete is rated at 30±MPa (MegaPascals) & most High strength Concrete has a 200 MPa . This Carbon Fiber Mud has a rating of 400 MPa before it fails which is close to 40k Psi The steel fiber makes it stronger but the Carbon Fiber makes it almost as strong but much more flexible which in turn technically makes it withstand more MPa
Came across this video looking into buying 2 post lift. Wow. I hope you fixed the floor plate issue better since this video was made. The new anchors you set are too close to the old holes. If those are 1/2" wedge anchors you need 6" of clear concrete surrounding the anchor. Meaning no other holes within 6". Or you loose most of your concrete strength. If the anchors are bigger you need more room for each anchor. You'll need to put plate steel under those lift posts to spread out the anchors so you don't have concrete failure.
So glad you're ok dude. Been subscribed quite a while now and I've always respected your straight talking, zero bs videos! Any chance you could upgrade to a full four post lift to eliminate or at least reduce the risk?
my neighbor died when i was in kindergarten, his car fell on himself because he didnt use jack stands,,, i use up to four now for any sort of work under the car
Crazy about the lift though.. Glad it didnt swat u. Great update, HATE computer crashes.. happened once, after that second hard drive with ALL the stuff on it as a back up hahaha.. ahh well.. I can hear the Barley pop cap hissing from here.. relax and thanks for the Vid
NATHAN PLEASE HELP!!! I have a 1998 bmw 540i I replaced DSC business CD player with aftermarket head unit i bought one of those 17 pin harness adapters and re wired the speakers the audio system works everything works now but for some reason my key fob doesn’t work anymore after install, it blinks red on the key and inside lock button and key in door locks and unlocks but the fob is no longer responding it just blinks red. I checked gas cap, fuses, and tried to re program nothing has worked. Going to put the stock stereo and harness back and see if my fob works again. Any ideas? I got a 17 pin harness adapter and it looks like there is security wires in the old harness that are no longer hooked up would this have any effect also I don’t have my antenna hooked up as the adapter is in the mail. Thank you in advance if u see this EDIT: I put stock radio back together with everything the way it was still key fob not working. tired new batteries nothing has worked
Have a 2001 BMW X5 3.0 was driving on the highway in 5th out of no where hear a whining noise coming from the transmission area then everytime I tried to put my car in gear each gear I went into sounded like marbles like metal getting thrown around car wouldn’t go into gear so thought it was the clutch bought a new clutch took it to some Russian and he changes the clutch it’s running alright for the most part then I’m on the highway again and the same exact sound happened now my car won’t go into gear again and it sounds like my clutch is grinding sounds like marbles do you have any idea why this is happening
Dan Newton is absolutely correct. First off, what a drama queen you are lol, Almost died???. "Survived its failure, Who installed it, it isn't the lift that failed it is the installer that failed. lol. When installing, the "Wedge anchors" you are supposed to drill all the way through the concrete, that way, if you have an issue with an anchor as you clearly do then you just pound it thru the floor and put another one in. By the way, they are sticking up through the floor, they are still not installed properly. By drilling those extra holes, you probably killed the structural warranty. Also, the most common bolt used is a Hilti 3/4 x 7-inch wedge anchor. You did not use a properly sized anchor. Normally when a lift is installed, the installer has to sign off and put a sticker on the lift, did you get one of these? Last but not least, did you get a lift that is ALI/ETL approved? STOP DRILLING HOLES< YOU ARE WEAKENING THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE LIFT.
These anchors are way over engineered, people have done worse and claim no problems. Drilling more hole was definitely the wrong call and epoxy on a wedge anchor is also bad, buy epoxy anchors which are legit don't add epoxy to wedge anchors. All wedge anchors have a minimum spacing between anchors this is why you can't just add more. The floor plate style post lifts rely a lot more on the anchors because there is no top bar, but you can measure the deflection of the posts with a heavy vehicle loaded by just hanging a plumb bob from the ceiling to see if posts move away from the static plumb bob. Any observable deflection by eye is unacceptable. The world isn't over, move the lift so you have the minimum anchor spacing spec from the nearest anchor and redrill the factory holes through slab without busting out the backside and clean the hole really well. If mess up again pound them through and start again. Or you could mount a camera that watches the lift all the time to catch a failure and get lots of views for the fail. It's unlikely to crush you if you are observant and quick, just let the vehicle fall or you will be drug into the fall if you try to intervene. Good luck...
That should do it, but just barely. Sanity check. If the 4 (four) bolts you now have along the back of your bottom plate is 12" from the front edge and your lift point on your vehicle is 36" away from the front edge of the bottom plate, then your rear bolts along the bottom plate will be in tension 36"/12"=3 times the weight of the thing you are lifting due to cantilever forces. Assuming your lift is rated for 10,000 lbs, and you are lifting a 10,000 lb car, then each side is lifting 5,000 lbs. Multiply by 3 for a total lifting force on your back edge bolts of ~15,000 lbs. Epoxied 1/2" bolts, 5" deep into 4000psi concrete pull out is ~15,000 lbs. 4 times safety factor and you are there, barely with 4 (four bolts). By comparison my 7000 lb rated lift uses 6 (six) 3/4" bolts epoxied 6-1/2" deep. 34,000lb pull out each. But, then there is the possibility of the concrete cracking. Stay safe!!
Its not what you think, if a video is running big and I post another it will knock that one off the top and kill the views , if I don't post revenue and views go through the roof as they are now
Damn.... Big Sur is a big update as Apple is moving to merge all there OS's, I do video production but this is the 1st time ive waited to install a major update in 10+ years mostly due to app incompatibility.
You need to clean the holes out real good before epoxy, concrete dust will make it fail.. use air and a round wire brush.. Use Hilti anchors like the ones you have and Hilti 2 part epoxy. Don't drill all the way through the concrete, the wedge on the anchor will fall off sometimes.
Bolts into concrete for a lift have always worried me. If you jack on the inner frame rails of the truck then the force on the bolts on the outside edge is going to be more than the entire weight of the truck. So a 2700 lb bolt alone will not hold. Fortunately the higher you go the less force on the bolts (because the friction on the lifting pucks will hold the posts straight). Those initial lifting forces on the bolts are way higher than the forces on the bolts from the difference in weight between the front and back. This probably explains why the internet is not full of videos of two post hoists tipping over. If they are going to pull out, they will just as you lift the vehicle.
The more holes you drill, the weaker the concrete becomes! The distance between the bolts is calculated precisely by a formula. DON'T DRILL EXTRA HOLES!
You're using the wrong type of anchor, good luck. Those are called "wedge anchors" and are prone to pullout under high load. You should have used "sleeve anchors." Also make sure you don't drill *through* the concrete, anchors will not hold if you do; you should have a blind hole, completely cleaned out and free of debris. NEVER use epoxy. With an open top 2 post, there's a lot of force on those bolts.
The weight of the front end on a Toyota Tacoma is effectively hanging on those ball joints. This design is hard to test in a safety inspection and often overlooked. It can only be done with a separate jack under the wishbone. Personally, I have had problems with branded ball joints that should be reasonable brands. Usually, bad joints will not even make a year of use. I certainly would not consider replacing the original Toyota ones unless they were worn out.
GET TO THE POINT!!!!!!!! I've watched section after section and I'm leaving now, having never found out what the hell happened. Kindly take this video down altogether and redo it.
If you buying a imac save your money and get a mac mini with the new M1 silicon..... I use final cut pro also and the new apple chips are smoking even imac pro and high spec intel models. If you can wait until imac moves to apple chips too then get an imac but you are crazy to buy an intel mac right now.
Nathan have you thought about backup harddrives for your Mac? There are several harddrive docks that are about $40 and are good for PC or Mac. With the dock you can buy a couple of harddrives to trade off for backup. I have 2 docks for my pc and are both alive. If you down loaded something like you did that kills the system you could have been back up in 2 hours or less with the original operating system. Many docks and harddrives are on sale this time of year and offer an alternative to a second computer. Backup software is free and public domain. Here is an example on amazon: www.amazon.com/ORICO-Duplicator-Function-Protocol-Supported/dp/B00JJEUL5W/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=computer+hard+drive+dock&qid=1605708742&sr=8-3. I used to backup all my computers once a week (in case of ransomware) but I have got lazy. Now that I will be back at it since I don't want some yokel to be able to extort me for money or to have the operating system go buggy. The nice thing about the harddrive dock is you can pick the quality of harddrive be it Seagate, Western digital, Hitachi, or Samsung. It is usually hard to know the quality of a dedicated external harddrive. This a lot cheaper than a second computer. Even if you get a second computer you still need to back it up in case of catastrophe. I used to back up with tapes when harddrives were expensive. Just a cheap suggestion for a tough problem. There are a few caveats for the docks such as cooling but I would be glad to answer you if you are interested. Most importantly these docks connect by usb so are nothing to set up.
@@NathansBMWWorkshop That's certainly a good step! Please think about doing it at home because you never know if your internet will go out or if their backup gets compromised. Remember it takes just a few bits to make a whole backup fail. With many of the backup software having rigorous backup protocols to insure optimum data safety on a local level. Nathan since you are a diy guy do you really want to depend on the companies to protect you? If something goes wrong they will just say oops! As a software person and a diy myself please think about having a local backup at home. It is quick, easy and most of all you don't have to depend on anyone else. When I depend on big corporations I am usually disappointed. Do whatever you like but I have access to icloud too but never use it. As a lab and software guy that had to depend on IT to deal with the software on our automated instruments It was an absolute nightmare. It took me months to get them out of the lab so we could update software in minutes instead of days. I am just talking to you as I would a friend. My $.02,
Be careful drilling new holes and running multiple lag bolts. You said they are only 1/2" from each other. That is bad and definitely never going to be recommended by any OEM. The reason is that as you have seen in Fl., concrete can be quite brittle. Every time you drill a new hole, you are removing material which makes it much more prone to fracturing. It also makes the steel plate weaker. Concrete is strong in compression but very week in tension. If a lift twists or torques, some of those loads are the tension (pulling out) type. IMO, following the OEM directions, which an engineer carefully designed, and doing a correct install should work and should be safe. You even said each bolt can support 7k lbs. So clearly the weak point is the concrete. Ironically, adding more bolts might "potentially" make the system weaker. I don't know this to be a fact- that would require destructive testing. Regardless, an engineer would look at it as an "entire system" where the lift frame and feet work in concert with anchors and concrete. If multiple holes are drilled close together, an important link in that "system chain" is compromised.
I believe the concrete base is the weak point. The first thing I would do is to install a new 8" deep high strength (7,500 lb.) concrete pad with rebar. You have to ask, why did those strong bolts start pulling out in the first place. The bolts are not the problem so adding more is not the solution. The foundation is the issue so you want to make sure it is very strong.
If needed (not likely), some additional options "I" might consider (this is in no way advice- just what I might consider) is fabricating a steel frame to go around, the footing and spread out ~1 foot in each direction, beyond the footprint of the lifts feet. That way, the bolts don't have to be soo close together. This would preserve far more structural integrity for that concrete. This would not substitute the OEM directions. Some lags also need to be relatively near to the center of the footprint to keep it from moving and avoid generating torque leveraging.
If it had to be 100% super strong and safe, and I wanted to over engineer it, I might dig out some (4) footings e.g., ~20" deep, then fill ~10" with high strength (7k lbs. vs. existing 4k) concrete "and" rebar, then lag the feet of the lift into that (per OEM instructions- no additional bolts.) Then using more rebar and 10" of concrete cover over that.
Your solution might work, but I just don't like or trust multiple holes in now weakened (structurally) concrete. Also, others should not copy this example.
They are 2 or 3 inches from each other, he was talking about the depth of each anchor
I'm working on heavy duty equipment in cement plants, when we have anchor bolts issues like that, we weld a 6" flatbar around the perimeter with the same thickness like the OEM plate and run additional anchor bolts with ~4" c-c distance, better safe than dead, I wouldn't add additional holes into the OEM plate, you weaken it
Well if i have any issue ill look into that
My thoughts exactly. Mine bolts down with 6 monsters. I wouldnt alter the plate.
The 4000psi concrete mix is a COMPRESSION load not tension load. Tensile strength of that is at most is 700psi if it was mixed and cured properly. The anchors on the outside of the under cable lift are in TENSION when the lift is in a loaded condition. Doesn't matter how thick your slab is, only matters how deep the anchor is placed. That will be the figure used for actual load calculation. Also need to take shock load into consideration ie. wrenching and pulling in addition to a vehicle load. Be safe !
I remember you having a few questions about installing that lift . I tried telling you but you just have too many emails coming in. Glad you did not get hurt keep up the good videos congratulations on your viewership.
Interesting to hear that you had an issue with a Dorman part. My friend put a new Dorman guibo on his 3.0L Z3 coupe and it last about 1000 miles before he began to have a driveline vibration while accelerating. The Dorman disc looked worse then the 130K+ mile one we took out!!! I will avoid Dorman at all costs now.
-Tim
Guy labels video snapped the lift, almost died. Lift didn’t snap, the underrated concrete failed, and after claiming almost died, proceeds to drill more holes too close together to guarantee someday it actually rips out and kills someone. Lots of comments on here advising you have compromised the fastening of this hoist, me included. Its a time bomb, cut the concrete out and do it proper.
Someone once said this to me about Dorman: “Don’t let it in the DoorMan!” Most Dorman stuff is poorly made Chinese product. Based on recent BMW videos I believe you wouldn’t put those products on your BMW’s so I’m surprised you would put them on your Toyotas. Also glad no vehicles fell on you. It’s rarely an instant death.
Anyone wanting a stronger joint can get much larger base plates cut by the steel supplier (get to know your local ones and get multiple quotes for anything expensive), weld them (using a proper welder or finding someone who does, 6011 stick rod is fine if you are limited to an AC buzzbox) to the cheap small stock base plates after drilling (you can rent mag drills and use a rotary broach to make it easy) then enjoy having as many more bolt holes on that load spreader as you care to add.
DORMAN HAVE THEIR AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET PARTS MADE IN CHINA !!
So, absolutely no surprise at all the ball joint failed after 2 years.
Genuine Parts are ALWAYS the way to go, yes, aftermarket are cheaper but just not made to O.E specification for fit, function and durability.
As Mr.Dewar of Scotch Whiskey fame once said; “ Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten “
just had Bosch brake pads for F30: Made in China.
Dirty ole Chinese parts , terrible for sure
Any bolts that are chemset in, preparation of holes / cleaning is very important.
That s is interesting to me because My dad is a Cement Mason, and he reinforces foundations for lifts. He cuts out 2² blocks and then cuts 10" lines into the foundation like a # sign around the block and then replaces the crappy concrete with this new mud called PFC, but with an added twist.
It's an ultra high strength Concrete that is usually reinforced with steel fiber, but he uses Carbon Fiber and the end result is the world's strongest Concrete mix - regular Concrete is rated at 30±MPa (MegaPascals) & most High strength Concrete has a 200 MPa . This Carbon Fiber Mud has a rating of 400 MPa before it fails which is close to 40k Psi
The steel fiber makes it stronger but the Carbon Fiber makes it almost as strong but much more flexible which in turn technically makes it withstand more MPa
Came across this video looking into buying 2 post lift. Wow. I hope you fixed the floor plate issue better since this video was made. The new anchors you set are too close to the old holes. If those are 1/2" wedge anchors you need 6" of clear concrete surrounding the anchor. Meaning no other holes within 6". Or you loose most of your concrete strength. If the anchors are bigger you need more room for each anchor. You'll need to put plate steel under those lift posts to spread out the anchors so you don't have concrete failure.
7:07 Dorman is plain junk! BTW glad that you're ok.
So glad you're ok dude. Been subscribed quite a while now and I've always respected your straight talking, zero bs videos! Any chance you could upgrade to a full four post lift to eliminate or at least reduce the risk?
Glad you're OK! really appreciate your work!
Smoked the slab! Best to start over and defend more trouble.
my neighbor died when i was in kindergarten, his car fell on himself because he didnt use jack stands,,, i use up to four now for any sort of work under the car
You need a normal lift with a support bar across the top, da!
Crazy about the lift though.. Glad it didnt swat u. Great update, HATE computer crashes.. happened once, after that second hard drive with ALL the stuff on it as a back up hahaha.. ahh well.. I can hear the Barley pop cap hissing from here.. relax and thanks for the Vid
I guess the sequoia must be heavy to break your lift.
Over 9,000 lbs prob
Scary bro..at least you alive and okay...just a car
Try exhaust solenoids instead of straight piping, that way you can switch back and forth between loud and quiet
Glad ur alright haus.
NATHAN PLEASE HELP!!! I have a 1998 bmw 540i I replaced DSC business CD player with aftermarket head unit i bought one of those 17 pin harness adapters and re wired the speakers the audio system works everything works now but for some reason my key fob doesn’t work anymore after install, it blinks red on the key and inside lock button and key in door locks and unlocks but the fob is no longer responding it just blinks red. I checked gas cap, fuses, and tried to re program nothing has worked. Going to put the stock stereo and harness back and see if my fob works again. Any ideas? I got a 17 pin harness adapter and it looks like there is security wires in the old harness that are no longer hooked up would this have any effect also I don’t have my antenna hooked up as the adapter is in the mail. Thank you in advance if u see this
EDIT: I put stock radio back together with everything the way it was still key fob not working. tired new batteries nothing has worked
Have a 2001 BMW X5 3.0 was driving on the highway in 5th out of no where hear a whining noise coming from the transmission area then everytime I tried to put my car in gear each gear I went into sounded like marbles like metal getting thrown around car wouldn’t go into gear so thought it was the clutch bought a new clutch took it to some Russian and he changes the clutch it’s running alright for the most part then I’m on the highway again and the same exact sound happened now my car won’t go into gear again and it sounds like my clutch is grinding sounds like marbles do you have any idea why this is happening
Add more bolts that close together is not the way to do it, need to add a larger footprint, be careful
Dan Newton is absolutely correct. First off, what a drama queen you are lol, Almost died???. "Survived its failure, Who installed it, it isn't the lift that failed it is the installer that failed. lol. When installing, the "Wedge anchors" you are supposed to drill all the way through the concrete, that way, if you have an issue with an anchor as you clearly do then you just pound it thru the floor and put another one in. By the way, they are sticking up through the floor, they are still not installed properly. By drilling those extra holes, you probably killed the structural warranty. Also, the most common bolt used is a Hilti 3/4 x 7-inch wedge anchor. You did not use a properly sized anchor. Normally when a lift is installed, the installer has to sign off and put a sticker on the lift, did you get one of these? Last but not least, did you get a lift that is ALI/ETL approved? STOP DRILLING HOLES< YOU ARE WEAKENING THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE LIFT.
These anchors are way over engineered, people have done worse and claim no problems. Drilling more hole was definitely the wrong call and epoxy on a wedge anchor is also bad, buy epoxy anchors which are legit don't add epoxy to wedge anchors. All wedge anchors have a minimum spacing between anchors this is why you can't just add more. The floor plate style post lifts rely a lot more on the anchors because there is no top bar, but you can measure the deflection of the posts with a heavy vehicle loaded by just hanging a plumb bob from the ceiling to see if posts move away from the static plumb bob. Any observable deflection by eye is unacceptable. The world isn't over, move the lift so you have the minimum anchor spacing spec from the nearest anchor and redrill the factory holes through slab without busting out the backside and clean the hole really well. If mess up again pound them through and start again.
Or you could mount a camera that watches the lift all the time to catch a failure and get lots of views for the fail. It's unlikely to crush you if you are observant and quick, just let the vehicle fall or you will be drug into the fall if you try to intervene.
Good luck...
glad you are safe and sound
Always us epoxy in concrete. Great video Nathan.
That should do it, but just barely. Sanity check. If the 4 (four) bolts you now have along the back of your bottom plate is 12" from the front edge and your lift point on your vehicle is 36" away from the front edge of the bottom plate, then your rear bolts along the bottom plate will be in tension 36"/12"=3 times the weight of the thing you are lifting due to cantilever forces. Assuming your lift is rated for 10,000 lbs, and you are lifting a 10,000 lb car, then each side is lifting 5,000 lbs. Multiply by 3 for a total lifting force on your back edge bolts of ~15,000 lbs. Epoxied 1/2" bolts, 5" deep into 4000psi concrete pull out is ~15,000 lbs. 4 times safety factor and you are there, barely with 4 (four bolts). By comparison my 7000 lb rated lift uses 6 (six) 3/4" bolts epoxied 6-1/2" deep. 34,000lb pull out each. But, then there is the possibility of the concrete cracking. Stay safe!!
So far I really like that camera. 2000 323i is really good.
You should try and save this channel before its too late and upload some actual content here instead if the random rambles
Its not what you think, if a video is running big and I post another it will knock that one off the top and kill the views , if I don't post revenue and views go through the roof as they are now
Why don't you tie the tops of the posts together? That will make the lift MUCH safer.
You and Tony should go grab a coffee together and you can talk to each other about how little you know about lifts
This is why I bought a 4 post bendpak. Not gonna risk it.
A mig welder is only about $400. You could fab up a nice exhaust in a few hrs. Ss u bends arnt expensive and weld up nice.
great video nathan im using the iphone 11 pro max to do my videos thats all i have for now.Hope you have a great Thanksgiving
I have 2 gopros and a canon 80d, but I wanted something that if I'm out and want to film something I can just use my phone
Glad you were not injured.
Damn.... Big Sur is a big update as Apple is moving to merge all there OS's, I do video production but this is the 1st time ive waited to install a major update in 10+ years mostly due to app incompatibility.
Concrete is too weak - anchor bolts should not be loosening up like that. Cut out a large pad and repour.
You need to clean the holes out real good before epoxy, concrete dust will make it fail.. use air and a round wire brush.. Use Hilti anchors like the ones you have and Hilti 2 part epoxy. Don't drill all the way through the concrete, the wedge on the anchor will fall off sometimes.
for those who know. know newegg.
I missed BMW content...🥴
Me too!! He was my BMW voice of reasoning.. too bad!
Glad you survived buddy, it wasn't friday the 13th?? lol.
Nice tool walls btw*
Saturday the 14th when that happened lol
@@NathansBMWWorkshop well think the black cat was still around :)
Be careful I need you
Bolts into concrete for a lift have always worried me. If you jack on the inner frame rails of the truck then the force on the bolts on the outside edge is going to be more than the entire weight of the truck. So a 2700 lb bolt alone will not hold. Fortunately the higher you go the less force on the bolts (because the friction on the lifting pucks will hold the posts straight). Those initial lifting forces on the bolts are way higher than the forces on the bolts from the difference in weight between the front and back. This probably explains why the internet is not full of videos of two post hoists tipping over.
If they are going to pull out, they will just as you lift the vehicle.
I installed 7000lb bolts now with epoxy
Not sure how thick that pad is but most people that install a lift cut out squares and make it like 10-12” thick there and then set the lift post.
9in thick pad
Glad you are alive.
Peg board looking sweet man!
Looking froward to hearing the exhaust on the Porsche.
Yea thursday is still a go , maybe shoot some video with the new phone at the shop
Given the extend of work that you do, it might be better to have a four post lift. And sell the two post to recoup some of that cost.
Install a bay! The lift is man made!
your bolts look too small. Hard to tell for sure. I think most are 3/4".
Dorman wings on the box, indicates what your money does when you buy Dorman, flys away...
That is why I do not trust two post car lifts.
Thanks, Nate. I have been living under my lift since mid July. :{ Also, where did u get those floor mats?
Got them off eBay, the one I have is 22x8.5 I think it was around $200 on eBay
This vid looked a bit more bright and clear to me. I guess that iPhone 12 Pro Max camera is quite alright.
I'll never have a 2 post lift.
that peg board looks good! i like the look of the shop
You gotta bolt a cross member on top of those 2 posts. Trusting bolts in concrete alone is just plain crazy.
This lift is not setup like that
Thanks for the review!
Have to say I am still very satisfied with the lift , a different set of mounting bolts would be great but the lift it self perfect !!!
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Great to hear, thank you!
The more holes you drill, the weaker the concrete becomes! The distance between the bolts is calculated precisely by a formula. DON'T DRILL EXTRA HOLES!
You're using the wrong type of anchor, good luck. Those are called "wedge anchors" and are prone to pullout under high load. You should have used "sleeve anchors." Also make sure you don't drill *through* the concrete, anchors will not hold if you do; you should have a blind hole, completely cleaned out and free of debris. NEVER use epoxy. With an open top 2 post, there's a lot of force on those bolts.
Hey, my 98 528i makes a slight whistle like nose when she warms up should i be worried?
puff valve guides natural
Shop is looking good.
The weight of the front end on a Toyota Tacoma is effectively hanging on those ball joints. This design is hard to test in a safety inspection and often overlooked. It can only be done with a separate jack under the wishbone.
Personally, I have had problems with branded ball joints that should be reasonable brands. Usually, bad joints will not even make a year of use. I certainly would not consider replacing the original Toyota ones unless they were worn out.
We are going oem joints on the sequoias from now on
First time seeing Zip sheathing and seam sealer on the inside wall 😅
2:25 bell end 🤣
Sounds like a rough week well at least noone got hurt. 🙂👍👍👍
“To make a long story short”. Yes you’re right. Video about your lift. You talked about your lift for 1 minute.
What is that mat between your lift? Where do i find one
Thats was of ebay, it does help alot with wear on the epoxy floor
Cherry will get darker, and your tools will leave an outline.
AHH Man!! .. cant Wait for the Cayman sounds.. Awesome...
Nathan i do everything off my 8 plus . Mic and pic is great .
Is the lift from Alibaba??
The lift is a A PLUS brand lift , but the bolts came in the same box and are not a good quality all , so I bought some legit bolts for it
@@NathansBMWWorkshop "... well there's your problem lady ..." "A-Plus" is NOT an ALI Certified lift...
dorman not a cheap brand? hahahaha probably the worst brand money can buy! wedge anchors is the only way to fasten heavy duty stuff to concrete yes
GET TO THE POINT!!!!!!!! I've watched section after section and I'm leaving now, having never found out what the hell happened. Kindly take this video down altogether and redo it.
I am not a big fan of bend pak lifts. Especially without the overhead rail. Those floor plate lifts can destroy concrete and drop cars rather easily
Initial torque set on those anchors at 110 ft. Lbs.
@@McNasty7100 that is not a BendPak lift (ALI Certified); it is an A-Plus (NOT ALI Certified).
@@wak359 I'm sorry you are correct. But it does look like an uncertified bend pak floor plate model I have seen
If you buying a imac save your money and get a mac mini with the new M1 silicon..... I use final cut pro also and the new apple chips are smoking even imac pro and high spec intel models. If you can wait until imac moves to apple chips too then get an imac but you are crazy to buy an intel mac right now.
You’re crazy to buy anything from apple actually. Overpriced and anti right to repair douchebags.
If you want it to actually work then you need to buy apple
The audio and video quality is great, not worse than the previous camera and better than a gopro. Glad you survived the snap unscathed.
WTH. Wow. Keep Posting
you dont have enough concrete
What’s up Nathan I hope you answer comments I have a qquestion for you
Everything Dorman is garbage , never buy suspension parts from autozone
Nathan have you thought about backup harddrives for your Mac? There are several harddrive docks that are about $40 and are good for PC or Mac. With the dock you can buy a couple of harddrives to trade off for backup. I have 2 docks for my pc and are both alive. If you down loaded something like you did that kills the system you could have been back up in 2 hours or less with the original operating system. Many docks and harddrives are on sale this time of year and offer an alternative to a second computer. Backup software is free and public domain. Here is an example on amazon: www.amazon.com/ORICO-Duplicator-Function-Protocol-Supported/dp/B00JJEUL5W/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=computer+hard+drive+dock&qid=1605708742&sr=8-3. I used to backup all my computers once a week (in case of ransomware) but I have got lazy. Now that I will be back at it since I don't want some yokel to be able to extort me for money or to have the operating system go buggy. The nice thing about the harddrive dock is you can pick the quality of harddrive be it Seagate, Western digital, Hitachi, or Samsung. It is usually hard to know the quality of a dedicated external harddrive. This a lot cheaper than a second computer. Even if you get a second computer you still need to back it up in case of catastrophe. I used to back up with tapes when harddrives were expensive. Just a cheap suggestion for a tough problem. There are a few caveats for the docks such as cooling but I would be glad to answer you if you are interested. Most importantly these docks connect by usb so are nothing to set up.
I just bought the bigger iCloud package and backed it all up to that now
@@NathansBMWWorkshop That's certainly a good step! Please think about doing it at home because you never know if your internet will go out or if their backup gets compromised. Remember it takes just a few bits to make a whole backup fail. With many of the backup software having rigorous backup protocols to insure optimum data safety on a local level. Nathan since you are a diy guy do you really want to depend on the companies to protect you? If something goes wrong they will just say oops! As a software person and a diy myself please think about having a local backup at home. It is quick, easy and most of all you don't have to depend on anyone else. When I depend on big corporations I am usually disappointed. Do whatever you like but I have access to icloud too but never use it. As a lab and software guy that had to depend on IT to deal with the software on our automated instruments It was an absolute nightmare. It took me months to get them out of the lab so we could update software in minutes instead of days. I am just talking to you as I would a friend. My $.02,
Apple phones only good for video shoots lol
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