I just did my front rear and transfer case for under 230 and I was just curious so I call around and asked a shops what they would charge it's over 1k for a 1.5 hour job my truck has 170k miles and runs like new. What I'm trying to say is that I'm glad I'm able to do my own work. And I always change my gasket just because you never know.
My spare tire rotted out the cross member so got rid of it and keep a tire plug kit and a pump with me…….you can tell moisture just sat on the tire cuz that’s the only spot that’s gone on my 2015 Silverado. Just saying wouldn’t be a bad idea to drop it while you are there and hit it with some por 15 and Uv protection
Just did this, pro tip: get a wire brush to clean the red lock tight off the threads before re installing. Had 66,000km on mine oil was toast (bought used) and thread locker was all hard had to spend alot of time scraping it with a blade.
You should've put a little hole in that line for your pump hooked up the blower nose nozzle from your air compressor. You'd have those bottles emptied out within five minutes.
you could.... but wouldn't you want to inspect your ring and pinion for wear? I mean, it's not difficult to pop the inspection plate. Plus, you can then see if there's any metal in the bottom. That will tell you if you have any serious gear wear.
@@seus_k2xx hey man. Thanks. I figured not either. Changed it all out. Only dilemma…..stupid magnet I thought had to come out to be cleaned was glued in from factory. Why would they do that. lol
It's not approved... Hasn't met the proper specs. They just claim it's better... But no proof, not worth the risk imo. Even though I love amsoil for other stuff
I haven't done it, but I was reading on some forums and this guy said he used 75w90 from amsoil and the heavier weight helped reduce the intermittent "clunk" when down shifting, so I may use that instead when I change mine
of course you do, you clean out the old metal filings like he did and the magnet at the bottom and use brake cleaner to clean out the gears, you don't need to use that silly rag BS, just spray it down good including the gears and let the brake cleaner dry or use compressed air to dry it quicker, then install cover fill with oil
@@Tuesflex the fluids are probably dirty and it’s best to change them before anything else brakes, also look into an dod/afm disabler as the lifters will go out over time because of the 4 to 8 transition
@@marcmedrano6674 appreciate that! Def heard a lot about the afm delete. My truck shifts good and was told dont change the trans fluid unless its bad. Cause I guess if nothing is bad and u change it it can slip
I just did my front rear and transfer case for under 230 and I was just curious so I call around and asked a shops what they would charge it's over 1k for a 1.5 hour job my truck has 170k miles and runs like new. What I'm trying to say is that I'm glad I'm able to do my own work. And I always change my gasket just because you never know.
If you drop the spare it makes it so much easier specially when adding fluid and not have to use a pump.
I never drop mine and didn’t use a pump I had a cone shape tip from a different oil bottle and thread right on and work like a charm .
Okay genius let’s see you try it. I got my dif fluid from AMSOIL it comes in a bag with a pointed tip that makes it real easy. Highly recommend
My spare tire rotted out the cross member so got rid of it and keep a tire plug kit and a pump with me…….you can tell moisture just sat on the tire cuz that’s the only spot that’s gone on my 2015 Silverado. Just saying wouldn’t be a bad idea to drop it while you are there and hit it with some por 15 and Uv protection
Just did this, pro tip: get a wire brush to clean the red lock tight off the threads before re installing. Had 66,000km on mine oil was toast (bought used) and thread locker was all hard had to spend alot of time scraping it with a blade.
I have a 3/4 ton 2015 HD. It has a drain plug on the bottom of both front & rear diff.
You lucky bastard
You should've put a little hole in that line for your pump hooked up the blower nose nozzle from your air compressor. You'd have those bottles emptied out within five minutes.
Surely youi didnt " flush your transmission" a fluid and filter change is whats best
I know this was an old video but did you have any issues with adding the 3 quarts? Thanks
no its fine i always fill everything up yo the point is trickling out then install the plug. its OK
My rear differential took 4 and still didn’t leak out at that point
Would it be easier if you used a fluid extractor ?
you could.... but wouldn't you want to inspect your ring and pinion for wear? I mean, it's not difficult to pop the inspection plate. Plus, you can then see if there's any metal in the bottom. That will tell you if you have any serious gear wear.
What other gear can you use besides GM.
I use Lucas Oil products as much as possible
What kind of rims are those, they really set off the truck.
Strada Codas. 22s. Thanks
Does the truck have to be jacked up?
If u can shimmy under there probably not then
Do these diffs not require a friction modifier additive?
They do they just didn't put it in lol
The GM G80 lockers inside these trucks do not require any additives
@@seus_k2xx hey man. Thanks. I figured not either. Changed it all out. Only dilemma…..stupid magnet I thought had to come out to be cleaned was glued in from factory. Why would they do that. lol
That shock looks like it might be leaking
Can i just simply drain the oil snd refill back up?
You can but it won't clear the majority of the metal shavings out and they will continue to wear the diff out sooner
Can i use n other mark like stp?
Where do you get the pump at
can you use brake kleren to get all that off the cover and gasket?
Yes
Don't like amsoil?
It's not approved... Hasn't met the proper specs. They just claim it's better... But no proof, not worth the risk imo. Even though I love amsoil for other stuff
So is 75W-85?
That’s what the factory calls for but you can use 75w90 no problem
Thanks for the video
That's about what i payed for lucus at orileys
Ehat happen if i use 75w-90
I haven't done it, but I was reading on some forums and this guy said he used 75w90 from amsoil and the heavier weight helped reduce the intermittent "clunk" when down shifting, so I may use that instead when I change mine
You didn't need to remove the cover but ok lol
of course you do, you clean out the old metal filings like he did and the magnet at the bottom and use brake cleaner to clean out the gears, you don't need to use that silly rag BS, just spray it down good including the gears and let the brake cleaner dry or use compressed air to dry it quicker, then install cover fill with oil
Not washington chevy
Please someone let me know. Just bought a 2017 1500 ls 5.3. I got it at 140,000. Do i need to change both automatic and diff fluid?
Yes
And transfer case and transmission
@@marcmedrano6674 why you suggest that bro? Thanks
@@Tuesflex the fluids are probably dirty and it’s best to change them before anything else brakes, also look into an dod/afm disabler as the lifters will go out over time because of the 4 to 8 transition
@@marcmedrano6674 appreciate that! Def heard a lot about the afm delete. My truck shifts good and was told dont change the trans fluid unless its bad. Cause I guess if nothing is bad and u change it it can slip
I know this is a couple yrs old, but man oh man, please stop swinging your camera around like that. Makes us dizzy if we're watching on larger screen.
I will try to do better.😘
Ac Delcoo 😂
It's what the gm dealer recommends... I went to them to and this is what they sold ms
Does the 2017 come with the reusable gasket?😊
12 bolt are reusable, rock auto 21.00 others double the price