How to Replace Rear Brakes 14-18 Chevy Silverado
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2019
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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes. This video is applicable to 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 Chevy Silverado
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/o7V/1AXAA00013
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/orE/1AXAA00020
• 20mm Wrench
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/o7G/1AXAA00015
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/oAj/1AXAA00043
• 22mm Socket 1aau.to/oeH/1AXAA00266
• Brake Caliper Compressor Tool. Single Piston. Screw Style. 1aau.to/oo/1AXAA00012
• Brake Caliper Hanger 1aau.to/ocD/1AXAA00084
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/og4/1AXAA00078
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oJA/1AXAA00044
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/okF/1AXSS00035
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Hammer 1aau.to/osR/1AXAA00091
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/og5/1AXAA00079
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Chevy Silverado 2014-2019 3rd Generation: • Chevy Silverado 2014-2...
Chevy Auto Repair Videos: • Chevy Auto Repair Videos
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. 
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I love that your videos show what the actual repair involves with rusted parts vs. doing it on a brand new vehicle where there are never any unexpected problems.
Very well done. Clear and easy to follow. No shaky video or obnoxious music. Professional. Thank you very much.
+Jim Bos Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks a lot for the video just did my 2017 Sierra, great instructions! Was extremely helpful
You guys have the best instructional videos by far in you tube Thank you Keep them coming guys
Thanks. I've done a few over the years but always uncertain of some things. You have cleared that up for me. Thanks again.
+Keith Golden Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You explain everything so easy to understand,thank you for all your tips!!!
Excelente video... Saludos desde Ecuador... Gracias por compartir sus conocimientos... Suerte
You guys do a great job on these videos, thanks alot
Serious word of caution before removing the rotor: YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THE E- BRAKE PADS INWARD AWAY FROM THE WEAR RIDGE! The gentleman in this demo was very lucky he didn't rip the e-brake pads apart like what happened to me >:[
What is this exactly?
Did you have to rebuild the ebrake or was i done for cause I just did that
How would u do that ?
Yea I think I just screwed mine up. Since I don’t have a lift like his I lifted my truck with a jack. And applied the brake. So I used the caliper screws to help not knowing that I had to release the brake. Now I have two springs pop off and I have no idea where they go. Fml
@@leocantu3983 🤣🤣🤣🤣
You set the parking brake to raise the rear end?!
You know the parking brake does nothing when the back end is off the ground, right? You are then supposed to use wheel chocks in front of your front tires so they can't roll.
Those springs are the springs that hold the parking brake shoes together. One up top, one on bottom.
If I was to paint my brackets what would you recommend for rust resistance?
What can cause the pads to stay in contact with the rotor at all times?! I torqued everything to spec!! I'm at a standstill. Thanks
Thank you for the video. I was getting my butt handed to me. I have done a lot of brake jobs but I was having a brain fart. You video jogged my memory and I realized what I was missing. Great presentation and explanation.
Do ou need locktite on the bolts? if so what color?
Which way do you turn the E brake adjuster to loosen it?
I'm not a pro but I thought I push down on the bracket bolts? I know on the front driver side you push down and on the front passenger side you pull up lossen the bolts, is it the same for the rear? Like I said I'm not a mechanic but want to do my rear brakes/rotors on my 2017 chevy silverado.
Great video
What if my brake fluid is passed the max line after installing new pads and pumping brake paddle. Should I remove some fluid ?
Do you have a video for the front brake replacement for a 2014 + Chevy Silverado 1500
The front is pretty much the same. You don't have to worry about the e-brake
.
what's the part number on that caliper compressor?
you need to do a video on parking brake replacement
Do you have to bleed the brakes after??
I’m not a pro. But I would suggest loosening the cap on the Brake Fluid reservoir, when compressing pistons.
Should you open the master cyl cap prior to compressing the pistons ? Ive always done it on older cars
It's not need. Use a C-Clap to compress piston.
Can you do a video for front brake & rotor replacement for a 2015 Chevy 2500HD Silverado? I really need the torque specs for this job. Thanks!
The front is pretty much the same. You don't have to worry about the e-brake
Torque specs = goodentight.
If i only replace the brake pads and clean the rotor and calliper and pins … I don’t have to worry about the e-brake right?…clean the rotor while it is on still is ok?
Much appreciate it.
Caliper bolts are M10 size, 1.5 pitch and are 30mm long, they will get the rotor off the hub by about an inch, but will still hang on the e-brake shoes if problematic. You can get new bolts at M10x1.5 60mm long bolts which popped the entire rotor off of the shoes.
So just did my 2015 chevy Silverado 1500 and the rear left smells like burning and i lift the truck up put in neutral to try to spin the wheel and is hard , is the caliper bad ? Thanks in advance.
+TAVYAK angler We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
That is one thing I always seem to have an issue with is the dang parking brake adjustment. Lol
You don’t bleed the breaks ? Or is it only on drums brake style brakes
You only ever have to bleed the brakes if you disconnect the brake line (if you change the caliper for example, you must bleed the brakes) if you are just changing the pads and rotors then you don’t need to.
What kind of Bolts to use to get off the Rear Rotors? Size thread
I believe they are 3/8-16
My 2015 Silverado had a little metal pin attached between the rotor and the parking brake. Basically had to bust it to remove rotor. Anyone else have this issue?
Also, ALWAYS use new clips, your new pads should come with them. Unless you have excessive crud/rust on your bracket, skip filing or brushing, it has no impact.
Not sure of the value added by buzzing the hub with the grinder. Your old rotor was on there, any rotor problems are gonna be felt at the outer part that runs through the pad.
If you have a boat or live in a salty environment, use marine grease on your slide pins.
You're welcome!
+Andrew Johnson Thanks for the feedback!
Just bought the caliper compressor tool. Lol! Thanks. Better looking than an old pad and a C clamp.
I just did this on my Silverado … after installing and taking it for a ride when I brake I hear something is it normal ? When they are new ? I’m assuming they need to be break in I just wanna be sure before I really on the highway
+@henrycamacho7146 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Bro how strong are you though?! 140 and 148 ft lbs of torque with a single hand and minimal effort. What kind if torque multiplier are you using.
What was that website called again? 😂
I thought you have to take off the cap so you mit have to put brake fluid in or when you press the cylinder so have to brake on I don't think what you don't know what you are doing
4:35 so i assume make sure parking brake is disengaged
Caliper compresser? Or you could just go down the road and pick up a c clamp
The pads were stuck in there because the clips have bent up tangs to capture them from backing out.
Remove them with the bracket as a unit and then compress the tangs with a flat screwdriver and they slide right out regardless of rust.
Also, there was no need to hammer on the rotor, although given their cheap replacement cost, doesn't matter. If there is a ridge that's holding them onto the parking brake, run those bolts in and it will force them off. Easy. Use an impact or a long breaker.
Don’t need to uncap the reservoir?
is it necessary to remove the rotor if I'm just replacing the pads ?
No
Parking brake was likely never used!!
Skill level 0 question but the video is for rear breaks then you start by taking out Calipers and brake pads. Do rear brakes have both?
+Joseph Wolf The rear brakes on this vehicle also house the parking brake mechanism which is a drum brake on the inside of the rotors. They have calipers and pads for the braking system and shoes inside the rotors for the parking brake system. Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Brake shoes
Lol that ain't alot of rust.
The bleeder screws should be opened and bleed the brake fluid out then add more to the reservoir after tightening up the bleeder screws. Compressing the piston sending fluid back into the braking system can damage the antilock brakes.
Not hating but, this video didn’t really show anything about the brake install. Lol! 🤦🏽♂️
148 ft lbs seems like a lot of torque for the caliper bracket. Also 140 ft lbs for lugs nuts seems a lot.
My Tahoe calls for 140 ft lb on the lug nuts per specs
140 is the proper torque
140 for the lug nuts is straight out of the owner's manual.
The torque was incorrect for the bracket bolts AND the guide pins ….. but correct for lug nuts