the cavitation plate (just above the prop) is supposed to be level with the bottom of the boat for ideal operation. too high or too low causes cavitation and reduced propulsion. take a cordless drill with you to move the jacking plate up and down, to fine tune it while moving. cheers
I'm considering one of these too. Thanks for the video. By the way, if you've never tried one, I really like the improvements in initial thrust and handling I get with a hydrofoil on the foot of an outboard. Though the top speed might suffer a tiny bit, everything else is greatly improved. Cheers!
I got one just like it. It worked great on my AlumaCraft 1232 jon boat. I mounted it 1/4 inch below the transom, {this just looked right to me), and at maximum height it puts the anti-cavitation plate on my new Suzuki DF6A outboard dead even with the bottom of the boat.
Just be careful that the water pick up stays deep enough to get water to the pump when you are running. Looks like you may be a little high, just be careful not to burn the motor up.
When on plane (run wide open) the water intakes need to be water ( they are the holes on the side of the foot in front of prop just above the shaft they on the side )
IDid you ever test it? I sure would like to know how it performed. I have a very similar boat and am researching my options for raising the engine. This jack is on my short list.
Is that not a 16" transoms and short shaft motor? The cavitation plate needs to be close to the bottom of the bottom edge of the boat. You will have some forgiveness but not much. You go too high and when you turn it will spin out. Prop will also slip out when trying to get on plane. However, when you find the sweet spot you will gain a mph or two. It ain't going to help you much in shallow water going slow as much is it will on plane. A true hydraulic or electric jack plate allows you to raise the motor once on plane allowing you to maximize the engines performance to the boat and reducing drag on the foot.
Wouldn't it have been better to use 5200 on the bolts, and not silicone? It would keep water from penetrating into the wood in the transom much better. Those bass boats you saw jacking the plate up and getting a holeshot also had low water pickups on their lower units to prevent the motor from losing water pressure and burning the powerhead up.
Put you on a pair of shorts and some flip-flops go to the river find you a nice sandbar and adjusted and do you get where you like it like I hurt somebody else, just make sure you draw enough water to cool the engine correctly what the heck the note Evinrude shut the door the other day make a no more motors selling no more motors it’s hard to believe have a good day Jason
Glad to see all the boat videos lately. thanks
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Man you always find products that work . That's an awesome alternative to taking the boat to someone that can weld aluminum. 👍👍
Thanks
Ordered a jackplate from Vance in Tenn. last year. Amazing craftmanship and great price. Bolted right up to my 80 HP yamaha and 17 foot G3
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Pretty cool little install! Thanks for sharing your day! Be safe
Thanks
That's frigging awesome! Great video Jason 👍.
Thanks
the cavitation plate (just above the prop) is supposed to be level with the bottom of the boat for ideal operation. too high or too low causes cavitation and reduced propulsion. take a cordless drill with you to move the jacking plate up and down, to fine tune it while moving. cheers
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Nice jack plate.....serves your purpose too! Excellent......
Thanks
I'm considering one of these too. Thanks for the video.
By the way, if you've never tried one, I really like the improvements in initial thrust and handling I get with a hydrofoil on the foot of an outboard. Though the top speed might suffer a tiny bit, everything else is greatly improved.
Cheers!
👍🏻
I got one just like it. It worked great on my AlumaCraft 1232 jon boat. I mounted it 1/4 inch below the transom, {this just looked right to me), and at maximum height it puts the anti-cavitation plate on my new Suzuki DF6A outboard dead even with the bottom of the boat.
👍🏻
Just be careful that the water pick up stays deep enough to get water to the pump when you are running. Looks like you may be a little high, just be careful not to burn the motor up.
I was always told your fin on the foot should be level with the bottom of the boat
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Good Morning Jason, a great job on the boat. Nice video and i love your channel.
Thanks
Great video Jason 👍👍👍. That’s pretty cool. I’ve never seen that before. I’m not a boat person either lol. Thanks
Thanks
Great video Jason have a great one and stay safe 👍
Thanks
Good job. Thanks for sharing
Thanks
When on plane (run wide open) the water intakes need to be water ( they are the holes on the side of the foot in front of prop just above the shaft they on the side )
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IDid you ever test it? I sure would like to know how it performed. I have a very similar boat and am researching my options for raising the engine. This jack is on my short list.
Did good
Pete's being bad boy did put in a time out lol
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Is that not a 16" transoms and short shaft motor?
The cavitation plate needs to be close to the bottom of the bottom edge of the boat. You will have some forgiveness but not much. You go too high and when you turn it will spin out. Prop will also slip out when trying to get on plane. However, when you find the sweet spot you will gain a mph or two. It ain't going to help you much in shallow water going slow as much is it will on plane. A true hydraulic or electric jack plate allows you to raise the motor once on plane allowing you to maximize the engines performance to the boat and reducing drag on the foot.
👍
Wouldn't it have been better to use 5200 on the bolts, and not silicone? It would keep water from penetrating into the wood in the transom much better. Those bass boats you saw jacking the plate up and getting a holeshot also had low water pickups on their lower units to prevent the motor from losing water pressure and burning the powerhead up.
👍🏻
Where do you get the white plastic the motor sits on
Vance
Can you make adjustments lower? I know you can raise the height but I’m curious if it will go lower. Without unbolting the plate. Thanks for any tips!
Yep
Great stuff, should be able to run a lot faster now, enjoyed that!!!!
Thanks
Great video 👍
Thanks
Hollis Farms you should open up a boat repair shop. You’re getting good at this boat stuff
Thx dude, I'm gonna get 1 one of those for my 14' aluminum v hull
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Where did the vance jack bolts come from jason.
Vance
i think you be okay your like me i dont know nothing about that stuff but it look right good luck
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Where did you buy it from
Seen a few home made ones. On the budget
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Bolt that motor through that jack plate. Never trust the factory friction clamps alone.
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Are you able to bolt the motor to the jack plate?
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How is the performance since you installed it? Did you get the desired results?
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Where did you purchase your jack plate from?
Ordered online
Put you on a pair of shorts and some flip-flops go to the river find you a nice sandbar and adjusted and do you get where you like it like I hurt somebody else, just make sure you draw enough water to cool the engine correctly what the heck the note Evinrude shut the door the other day make a no more motors selling no more motors it’s hard to believe have a good day Jason
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What speed increase did you get?
Several mph
@@HollisFarmsMS 4+?
How did it work out?? Is it worth buying?
Yep
@@HollisFarmsMS how high were you able to jack the motor before cavation problems?
You should name it now. How about Unsinkable #3 >:)
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Pete must of seen another mouse .
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20 inch needed 15 motor bad deal
Looks little to high . Watch water pumping out.
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That accent tho
DONT YOU NEED A MOTOR TOTER TO SUPPORT THE BOAT MOTOR
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