Loved so much of this video... the measuring tape hack, explaining WHY a two flute cutter on aluminum, and the peaceful Quinn-ness of it all. I've been bingeing for less than a week, and have held out on Patreon as long as I can. Money is tight, but I'm in - please keep making these!
Wow, I am normally a woodworking freak, But I have to say, you make metal work so interesting, amazing knowledge in your field. Great video and explanation - Thanks
You continue to impress me with your machining and heat treating knowledge and skills. Especially liked the comment when quenching the tempered parts about the need to move the part around to avoid a vapor barrier from forming on the part. If you ever do a video on heat treating you might want to go into more detail on why/how the vapor barrier is formed and the reason it can prevent the part from cooling evenly.
I often use a star lock washer between a bolt or nut that is in a slot because I find these surfaces often loosen from vibration. I like the cuts you put in the knurled nut. Well done.
You can also temper steel without a thorough cleansing and having to watch the color changes like a hawk. Put the part in a toaster oven set at 400 F. Go and work on something else for an hour. Then come back, turn off the oven, take out the part, and quench it. Of course, if it is an Abom79 size part, you may need a biger toaster oven and a longer soaking period.
The Leidenfrost Effect is the name of the vapor barrier that forms and keeps things from quenching if you do not move them enough, not trying to be a smarty with that- I just find it a neat little subject that I think most people watching these videos would like to see.
And, simply introducing turbulence to the quenching fluid (shaking back and forth) helps move warmed fluid away from the work and introduces cooler fluid. Otherwise heat would take much longer to flow from the part and into the fluid
My pleasure. I like your grinder tool rest design because it is elegant and simple, as the best engineering ought to be, in my view. You have quite the turn of phrase. I like the comment about the blind squirrel and the nut. Or as Marwood says in Withnail and I, "even a stopped clock is right twice a day".
I really enjoy your thought process, explanation, and careful work on the lathe and mill. Seeing the small details while machining is interesting and informative. Thanks for taking the time it to plan, record, and edit your videos. Excellent audio, too.
😁 love the budget indexing system 👍 couple of heat treat tips.. tempering should happen straight after hardening, use oil instead of water, water can cool the item too quickly and cause extra stress, soak in vinegar overnight to loosen scale, will rub off easily with scotchbrite or steel wool. Canola oil is better than dirty old sump oil and makes the shop smell like fish and chips, 🐟 ⚙️😺
@@chrisstephens6673 What do you mean by "alter the tooling"? Do you mean grind HSS tooling? Squaring a QCTP takes less than 5 seconds beginning to end.
I'm surprised you didn't use a reamer before taping the hole, I guess super accuracy for the thread diameter wasn't required. I've had problems tapping small blind 'bottomless' holes, I'm guessing that the tap was acting as a piston and compressing the air below it. In one case I drilled a side hole below where the threads would end to relieve the pressure, making it easier to tap the hole. On larger taps I suppose the air can escape past the flutes off the tap. Knurler reminds me of a pipe cutter. On my wood lathe I've done parting by holding a hand saw over the work, I suppose you could use a hack saw for that on the metal lathe. Any way to mount a hack saw blade in the tool holder for parting? I like the use of those copper electrical connectors to protect the chuck jaws and the work.
That's a scissor-style knurling tool. I added a link to the description for one like I'm using. Just make sure the shank size matches what your tool post can hold. Thanks for the kind words!
As someone who is developing an interest in machining I find your "back to basics" approach just what I need to park a few skills in my brain. Well done on your instructional methods.
Using a toaster oven or tempering is so much more controllable than an oxy acet torch and probably costs less than the gas you used if you get it at a flea mall. plus the entire parts gets an even temper.
Excellent Video, three observations, I like the fact that you run your machine at a reasonable speed when cutting material and not whizzing around at 35000 rpm, (I call it mothering my machines) plus in this video you seem to favour hss tooling (a very nice ground tool) I did notice at 16 minutes while tapping and using your sprung loaded centre support there was a discernable wobble in the centre pin, is there a reason for that?
@@Blondihacks Yes I agree, it still does the job, obviously, it's not one of your projects Chinese I suspect although they are capable of producing quality
5 лет назад
Hi, please can you explain the annealing process after you hardened the nuts. All the videos I have seen heat the metal to 400 degrees and let them cool slowly to unstress the crystals. You quenched them in water, what is the difference if any? Nice video, explained well.
It's the same process, really. Doing it with the torch is a lot faster, but less precise. If you need to hit a really specific hardness, or if you're making knives, the oven is a much better choice. For simple tooling like this, the torch works fine.
Is the knurling tool specific for certain diameters, where the perimeter is a multiple of the “pitch” of the knurling? I cannot really understand how that works, is not cutting but displacing material?
Very good questions! I plan to do a video on knurling soon, since I get a lot of questions about it. You don't have to match the circumference exactly to a multiple of the knurl pitch, but it does help. There are form-knurlers and cut-knurlers. The form ones are most common.
I don't understand. Question please? You used a set of Dial Vernier Calipers while accomplishing your diameter turning operations. Then you use a micrometer to gage the milling operation?
Hehe, yah, the cord from my Portaband. I didn't notice it in the shot until the very end of the final edit, and certainly not during filming. I guess I have cord blindness.
get some blue away or pickling gel to remove the oxide,saves effort and time gets the part to clean steel uber pronto,used for stainless or heat marked (motor) bike /car stainless exhaust pipes,or just freshly Tig-ed stainless...yadayada. Nice tool rest,mine is the ubiquitous sloppy POS non functioning mess.
Great video! (as always :D) One thing that I wanted to point out is that from what I heard it's better to only do a small mark with a center drill for drilling a hole (in a way that you create a spot only with the 120 degrees angle portion of the center drill). The reason is that the angle of the drill is different than an angle of the live center. It's either that or you could use a center drill with the same angle as the drill you are using.
@@Blondihacks I center drill on the mill the same way you do and the same 2/3rds depth as your supposed to. I've watched numerous YT videos and the big thing seems to be the use of spotting drills that closely match the jobber drill angle your using. "Technically" that might be the most correct, but logically it's somewhat OCD since drills can't drill exactly on location, round or sometimes even straight holes. Then there's the average runout of the drill chuck used and what that means @ 2" or more from the chucks jaws. Drills in reality are only meant as roughing tools and are far from a precision cutting tool. If you want on location, round and straight then better methods are required like high precision edge finding, single point boring and then reaming to size if needed. At the end of the day it's extremely unlikely that holes made with a center drill or a proper spotting drill vary enough for most to even measure. Center drills might even do a tiny bit better considering there rigidity and even shorter length. On a high production CNC then I'd say there worthwhile simply because the spotting drills would be far more durable and easier to resharpen. I know a few highly experienced real machinist's that scoff at the idea that spotting drills are even needed on manual machines.
@@Blondihacks I could be wrong but from what limited history I've managed to run across, today's common use of actual spotting drills seems to have started quite some time after numerical control machine tools were developed. From that I've made the assumption that due to there higher durability they started to be chosen over the use of center drills since a dumb cnc machine can't tell if the tip on a center drill has broken off or when in the program it did so. Somehow that choice of durability has become thought of as being more accurate. If I was drilling lot's of hardened metals then yes I think I'd chose a proper spotting drill simply to slow or prevent chipping a standard drills cutting edges. Any industrial factory videos I've seen prior to the invention of NC machines all show center drills being used on manual control multi station drill presses, mills, and even high precision jig borers. Sadly you'll still get the YT experts arguing that center drills just can't be as good as a spotting drill since the cutting angles don't match. I've got a good friend who's a now retired tool & die maker who maintains if being on location is really important then it's much better to spot the hole with a solid carbide ball mill held in a precision collet and not in a drill chuck. It's a trick he learned from a now long gone tool & die maker he worked with. With tap or clearance hole drilling it would be wasted effort obviously since that type of precision isn't normally required. And tool & die work is a long way's from average machining tasks. So for most items in his home shop he still uses the same center drills we do.
Since I'm a noob and I can't engage in this discussion further as I lack knowledge, I was trying to remember where did I get this info and I found it again, it was Stefan Gotteswinter's video: ruclips.net/video/Ot8wPGQW3JI/видео.html#t=1m34s I might have misunderstood something but what I was talking about in my first comment is what he talks about in 1m34s.
Don't know if you are in the greater Pacific Northwest or not, but if you are, let me know. I like to network with other amateur electronics and machinists. My hobby is robotics which spans a healthy amount of both. Anywho, drop me a response if you happen to live up here or ever manage to travel up here and we can arrange a get together with a few other local You-Tubers....
"Never look a gift thou in the mouth." Outstanding video! First blend of sewing and lathe tools ever.
Thinking outside the toolbox. 😬
The more tool boxes you know, the more creative the solutions.
@@Blondihacks Sew it would seam
@@Blondihacks 9:54 is why I detest using bandsaws
Nothing better than receiving "Machinist and Engineering" Tips!
WOW!!! I'm real happy to find your Chanel. You are such a great teacher... thank you soooooo much.
Yay! New Blondihacks Thanks for saving my Saturday
Aww, thanks for leaving a nice comment and making MY Saturday! 😊
Oh my god, I get more excited about your videos than I ever did any Saturday morning cartoon, specially the end result.
Awww 😊
That spindexer idea was genius! I'll be looking for a random project to use that on soon.
Thank you for the easy trick for the teeth on the knob, have been trying to figure out how to do without having a milling machine, genious I tell Ya
I was pleasantly surprised by how well that worked! I recommend it.
@@Blondihacks The metal cutting screw lathe is the only machine that can reproduce itself.
Loved so much of this video... the measuring tape hack, explaining WHY a two flute cutter on aluminum, and the peaceful Quinn-ness of it all.
I've been bingeing for less than a week, and have held out on Patreon as long as I can. Money is tight, but I'm in - please keep making these!
Just getting in to milling and lathe , love your videos learn so much about small machinery , Thanks for the understanding of the work and the tools .
Wow, I am normally a woodworking freak, But I have to say, you make metal work so interesting, amazing knowledge in your field. Great video and explanation - Thanks
You continue to impress me with your machining and heat treating knowledge and skills. Especially liked the comment when quenching the tempered parts about the need to move the part around to avoid a vapor barrier from forming on the part. If you ever do a video on heat treating you might want to go into more detail on why/how the vapor barrier is formed and the reason it can prevent the part from cooling evenly.
Will do! Heat treating a huge and fascinating subject. There could easily be a whole series on that.
Indexer is a great idea. Simple and uses tools readily available.
I often use a star lock washer between a bolt or nut that is in a slot because I find these surfaces often loosen from vibration. I like the cuts you put in the knurled nut. Well done.
Funny you should mention that- I'll be going into that very subject in some detail in the next part! 😀
Seamstress tape ! Pure genius.
That is an extremely clever setup.
Thank you! It's definitely my favorite part of this build. 😄
Brilliant way to index. Just learned something new. Thanks!
another great video ,who doesn't love knurling , those knurled nuts will last forever
Knurling is pretty magical. 😄
Excellent video. Thx for explaining everything so clearly.
Great projects
Thank you for watching!
great work Quinn , Love the project ..ENJOYED!
You can also temper steel without a thorough cleansing and having to watch the color changes like a hawk.
Put the part in a toaster oven set at 400 F.
Go and work on something else for an hour.
Then come back, turn off the oven, take out the part, and quench it.
Of course, if it is an Abom79 size part, you may need a biger toaster oven and a longer soaking period.
Placing the harden parts in a 450 F oven for about 1 to 2 hours would also temper the parts without the need for a second quench.
For sure! Oven tempering is a lot more precise, also. You can hit a specific hardness much more repeatably. But I like fire. 😬
A toaster over works great for tempering.
oooh, i love that index tape idea, stolen lol, thanks Quinn
Good work here... subscribed
Good work!
good ideas.....first class craftsgirlship.....👍
Thank you very much! 😊
Hi Blondi, just found you via instagram, brilliant videos!
Thank you! Welcome to my channel!
The Leidenfrost Effect is the name of the vapor barrier that forms and keeps things from quenching if you do not move them enough, not trying to be a smarty with that- I just find it a neat little subject that I think most people watching these videos would like to see.
Hooray for science! 😃 If I do a video on heat treating, I'll be sure and cover that.
And, simply introducing turbulence to the quenching fluid (shaking back and forth) helps move warmed fluid away from the work and introduces cooler fluid. Otherwise heat would take much longer to flow from the part and into the fluid
Very nice. Really good knurling. I love tool steel. Also have a soft spot for stainless 316Ti. Ironic really.
Thanks! I'm not very good with the knurling tool, to be honest, but even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes.
My pleasure. I like your grinder tool rest design because it is elegant and simple, as the best engineering ought to be, in my view. You have quite the turn of phrase. I like the comment about the blind squirrel and the nut. Or as Marwood says in Withnail and I, "even a stopped clock is right twice a day".
Awesome! Toaster ovens are great for tempering small parts. Not as fast though.
For sure! I've been thinking about getting one for the shop. Handy when more precision is needed for the hardness.
I really enjoy your thought process, explanation, and careful work on the lathe and mill. Seeing the small details while machining is interesting and informative. Thanks for taking the time it to plan, record, and edit your videos. Excellent audio, too.
Thank you so much! Your comment reflects that you understand how much work actually goes into them. That means a lot! ☺️
1/4-20 end mill is when you strip out a threaded hole with a bolt. 😜
Haha, indeed. 😁
😁 love the budget indexing system 👍
couple of heat treat tips.. tempering should happen straight after hardening, use oil instead of water, water can cool the item too quickly and cause extra stress, soak in vinegar overnight to loosen scale, will rub off easily with scotchbrite or steel wool. Canola oil is better than dirty old sump oil and makes the shop smell like fish and chips, 🐟
⚙️😺
Good tips! Thanks for sharing!
I'm enjoying the longer format videos. One tip though, maybe put your logo somewhere on the screen or machines so I know who I'm watching lol!
Haha, yah, I know I have a lot of that going on. RUclips content theft is a huge thing, so it's a bit of insurance.
quinn, nice locking screws. perhaps, an annealing pan. watchmakers use them to anneal and temper small steel parts. poppy
I've never seen anyone (besides myself) use a 123 block to square up the aloris. makes sense to me
... and I said, “Why didn’t I think of that! Good tip, good practice.
Really enjoy your videos!
RL Buffalo, MU
It's my go-to method these days, because it saves dragging the tail-stock over, or needing to remember to do it before setting up the stock.
@@chrisstephens6673 What do you mean by "alter the tooling"? Do you mean grind HSS tooling? Squaring a QCTP takes less than 5 seconds beginning to end.
I'm surprised you didn't use a reamer before taping the hole, I guess super accuracy for the thread diameter wasn't required.
I've had problems tapping small blind 'bottomless' holes, I'm guessing that the tap was acting as a piston and compressing the air below it. In one case I drilled a side hole below where the threads would end to relieve the pressure, making it easier to tap the hole. On larger taps I suppose the air can escape past the flutes off the tap.
Knurler reminds me of a pipe cutter.
On my wood lathe I've done parting by holding a hand saw over the work, I suppose you could use a hack saw for that on the metal lathe. Any way to mount a hack saw blade in the tool holder for parting?
I like the use of those copper electrical connectors to protect the chuck jaws and the work.
A reamer isn't necessary when using a tap, because they aren't that precise to begin with (I go into why in my Taps & Dies video from last week).
That's what I suspected, since I've never had an issue threading a screw into any hole that I've drilled and tapped by hand.
didnt see anything on the knurling tool, i want one like that! lol can you give me info on it? nice job by the way loving the channel
That's a scissor-style knurling tool. I added a link to the description for one like I'm using. Just make sure the shank size matches what your tool post can hold. Thanks for the kind words!
As someone who is developing an interest in machining I find your "back to basics" approach just what I need to park a few skills in my brain.
Well done on your instructional methods.
Thank you! That's just what I'm going for. 😀
7:18 - Ahh, I've always wondered what Tamarind was made of. Used motor oil. Got it!
;)
Using a toaster oven or tempering is so much more controllable than an oxy acet torch and probably costs less than the gas you used if you get it at a flea mall. plus the entire parts gets an even temper.
Excellent Video, three observations, I like the fact that you run your machine at a reasonable speed when cutting material and not whizzing around at 35000 rpm, (I call it mothering my machines) plus in this video you seem to favour hss tooling (a very nice ground tool) I did notice at 16 minutes while tapping and using your sprung loaded centre support there was a discernable wobble in the centre pin, is there a reason for that?
It wobbles a bit because it's not as well made as it could be. Still does the job.
@@Blondihacks Yes I agree, it still does the job, obviously, it's not one of your projects Chinese I suspect although they are capable of producing quality
Hi, please can you explain the annealing process after you hardened the nuts. All the videos I have seen heat the metal to 400 degrees and let them cool slowly to unstress the crystals. You quenched them in water, what is the difference if any? Nice video, explained well.
It's the same process, really. Doing it with the torch is a lot faster, but less precise. If you need to hit a really specific hardness, or if you're making knives, the oven is a much better choice. For simple tooling like this, the torch works fine.
Is the knurling tool specific for certain diameters, where the perimeter is a multiple of the “pitch” of the knurling? I cannot really understand how that works, is not cutting but displacing material?
Very good questions! I plan to do a video on knurling soon, since I get a lot of questions about it. You don't have to match the circumference exactly to a multiple of the knurl pitch, but it does help. There are form-knurlers and cut-knurlers. The form ones are most common.
I don't understand. Question please? You used a set of Dial Vernier Calipers while accomplishing your diameter turning operations.
Then you use a micrometer to gage the milling operation?
Calipers are enough precision for this job. I often use a micrometer on the mill because there isn’t room for the calipers in there.
Gift thou 🙂
Those are the best kind! 📏
Diamond gnurl. Yack!
wouldn't O1 tool steel be hard enough against the mild steel without hardening?
Maybe? But hardening is easy to do. The tooth-cutting leaves small surfaces that may wear out, so hardening is good insurance.
Did you make the copper chuck jaw protectors? if so, maybe consider doing a video on how to make one? Thoughts Anyone?
I did! I could do a video on them, sure! They're just scraps of copper bent around the jaws, but I can show the technique I use for making them.
Awesome! Love Love Love the content of your channel!@@Blondihacks
Very nicely done.
And I don't know. What was dat? An electric cord of some sort?
Thanks and Meow.
Hehe, yah, the cord from my Portaband. I didn't notice it in the shot until the very end of the final edit, and certainly not during filming. I guess I have cord blindness.
Off topic but if you watch Quinn's videos with the closed captioning on her name changes to Blondie Axe. Lol
I think I just found my new band name.
get some blue away or pickling gel to remove the oxide,saves effort and time gets the part to clean steel uber pronto,used for stainless or heat marked (motor) bike /car stainless exhaust pipes,or just freshly Tig-ed stainless...yadayada.
Nice tool rest,mine is the ubiquitous sloppy POS non functioning mess.
Great video! (as always :D) One thing that I wanted to point out is that from what I heard it's better to only do a small mark with a center drill for drilling a hole (in a way that you create a spot only with the 120 degrees angle portion of the center drill). The reason is that the angle of the drill is different than an angle of the live center. It's either that or you could use a center drill with the same angle as the drill you are using.
General practice is to go 2/3rds up the tapered section of the center drill. That area is 60°, the same as standard centers.
@@Blondihacks I center drill on the mill the same way you do and the same 2/3rds depth as your supposed to. I've watched numerous YT videos and the big thing seems to be the use of spotting drills that closely match the jobber drill angle your using. "Technically" that might be the most correct, but logically it's somewhat OCD since drills can't drill exactly on location, round or sometimes even straight holes. Then there's the average runout of the drill chuck used and what that means @ 2" or more from the chucks jaws. Drills in reality are only meant as roughing tools and are far from a precision cutting tool.
If you want on location, round and straight then better methods are required like high precision edge finding, single point boring and then reaming to size if needed. At the end of the day it's extremely unlikely that holes made with a center drill or a proper spotting drill vary enough for most to even measure. Center drills might even do a tiny bit better considering there rigidity and even shorter length. On a high production CNC then I'd say there worthwhile simply because the spotting drills would be far more durable and easier to resharpen. I know a few highly experienced real machinist's that scoff at the idea that spotting drills are even needed on manual machines.
Turning Point I think you’ve summarized it perfectly! Couldn’t agree more.
@@Blondihacks I could be wrong but from what limited history I've managed to run across, today's common use of actual spotting drills seems to have started quite some time after numerical control machine tools were developed. From that I've made the assumption that due to there higher durability they started to be chosen over the use of center drills since a dumb cnc machine can't tell if the tip on a center drill has broken off or when in the program it did so. Somehow that choice of durability has become thought of as being more accurate. If I was drilling lot's of hardened metals then yes I think I'd chose a proper spotting drill simply to slow or prevent chipping a standard drills cutting edges.
Any industrial factory videos I've seen prior to the invention of NC machines all show center drills being used on manual control multi station drill presses, mills, and even high precision jig borers. Sadly you'll still get the YT experts arguing that center drills just can't be as good as a spotting drill since the cutting angles don't match. I've got a good friend who's a now retired tool & die maker who maintains if being on location is really important then it's much better to spot the hole with a solid carbide ball mill held in a precision collet and not in a drill chuck. It's a trick he learned from a now long gone tool & die maker he worked with. With tap or clearance hole drilling it would be wasted effort obviously since that type of precision isn't normally required. And tool & die work is a long way's from average machining tasks. So for most items in his home shop he still uses the same center drills we do.
Since I'm a noob and I can't engage in this discussion further as I lack knowledge, I was trying to remember where did I get this info and I found it again, it was Stefan Gotteswinter's video: ruclips.net/video/Ot8wPGQW3JI/видео.html#t=1m34s
I might have misunderstood something but what I was talking about in my first comment is what he talks about in 1m34s.
oh patreon...
I'm a bit OCD with the language. The word 'platten' should rhyme with 'flatten'
Thanks! I honestly wasn't sure how to pronounce it, and I do it both ways (unconsciously) throughout this series.
Don't know if you are in the greater Pacific Northwest or not, but if you are, let me know. I like to network with other amateur electronics and machinists. My hobby is robotics which spans a healthy amount of both. Anywho, drop me a response if you happen to live up here or ever manage to travel up here and we can arrange a get together with a few other local You-Tubers....