As always, your video rocks. I have always been curious why people say stiff arrows shoot left and weak ones shoot right. Now that I hear the explanation, it seems pretty obvious. Thank you for the demo, video, experimentation, and explanations. GOOD LUCK !
This is why i like recurve. Its a bloody challange! You struggle and when u get the bareshafts in gold at 30m you feel like a champion :D Its so satifying getting the arrows tuned. For compound its so much easier and its like cheating in comparison.
The heavier point also serves the purpose of giving u a more forgiving node while trying to give u the spine u need for better arrow flight. I was able to do that with my compound setup. I used a Valkyrie Viking Centerpin system. The Valkyrie 210 grain point screws into a 22 grain collar that is glued to the shaft. The threads on the point r actually @ the oppo
opposite end of the field point so u push this centerpin that goes far into the shaft until it stops & then u screw the point onto the threads. These r match grained points to go with the Valkyrie short Jagger 210 grain broadhead. With the Victory VAP TKO's in a 300 spine which recovers quickly I was able to get incredible results. Then I repeated the process with the Blackeagle X-Impact's with a 250 spine. I wanted to try out the Blackeagle shafts that I made to get them to fly like my VAP TKO's due to them being offered in a 250 spine. My theory was that if I went with the 300 spine that they would be underspined. It was a success & @ 64 lbs. I have great arrow flight. The 250 spine recovers quickly & r more similar in weight to the TKO's. No sight or tuning adjustments needed. 😁
I love the Bohning Impulse vane too. Unfortunately they don't make these anymore. I even asked Bohning via email and they confirmed it. So get them while you still get some!
The heavier the point, the lighter the spine will react. Now, the heavier the overall weight of the arrow, the more forgiving, but.... this only works for long distance outside, the smaller the O.D. the shaft is. Less area for the wind to push against. So a thin, overall heavy arrow with a heavy point would be best. There should have been no need to even test this. It has been a know element of archery for decades. The more FOC you can get, the more forgiving it will be also. You basically want that point to PULL the arrow down range. If it is too light, which so many assume is better for long range, and they are all wrong, the arrow will struggle to get there and to hit the target if there is too much wind. You have to find that happy medium in there somewhere, depending on you and your bow.
I've seen these guys shooting compounds on 3D targets with light arrows @ very long distances. They seem to get this parachute effect on the very long shots when the arrow looses it's energy & there's not enough weight up front to PULL the arrow straight. I never shoot these ridiculous distances but @ all distances I've shot I've found that I don't get the massive drop off with my arrows. I also don't have the outlier shots going to the left or right on a target. The penetration is also very good with that resounding thud upon impact. 👌
Hey Stephen, it's been really hard to find heavy field points. As a traditional archer, I very much need to use heavier broadhead and so as heavier field points. I know you have KAYUGA GEN 2 field points in stock, but those are not that great. Please check out 'Ethics archery' as they make very good arrow components like field points and different size inserts for very much all brands. But getting those in Australia is not very easy for many reasons.
Hi Stephen, i've been watching/following you since 2015 when i bought a compound bow from you! I still am a novice in archery, but i noticed something in this video that you may not be aware off! Maybe it has no value to your shooting, but i thought to mention it to you as to me "it" could make a difference to getting better results! As you know, everything in archery is related to each other, but if one thing is out of whack (that's how i see it) others can't be relied upon! Now my point to this is, in this video, when you draw back and get to your anchor point, your 3rd finger seams to "over" draw the string a little, which makes the string not in a straight line with the rest of the string! Which to my knowledge is torquing the string! Not the bow, but the string! Pls, have a look, and see what you think? As mentioned before, i am a novice, so if this not an important issue, pls accept my apologies! However if it does mean something that should be avoided, i'd be happy to hear! Cheers Eddie
Thank you, I learnt a lot from this video. Much appreciated. I'm a big fan of your store and I have used both online and POS. The online could do with some help 😉
Love your videos! I have a question: Have you ever spray painted a recurve riser and could you share how you did it? I'm getting a new riser in anodized black. I want to make it lime green prefferably in way that it looks like anodization. I see some videos about painting compound bows. They just spray them with the color and done! I asked around and i was told that i need a etching primer, under color like black or silver, the color itself (candy) and i need to finish it with a 2K clear coat. I wonder what your thoughts are about this.
just a thought, but is it not possible that the bare shaft test was flawed. For instance tip weight was increased to de rate the spine, but then the insert ran several inches up the shaft which to my mind reinforces the shaft prior to the point and in effect 'shortens' the flexible portion of the shaft thereby uprating rating the spine. So two competing influences happening at once. I'd be willing to bet that if you had a 200gr tungsten tip where it was all in tip, you would have found your bare shaft test with the heavier tip to have been much more conclusive. I've found this even with FACT weighting arrows with a light tip vs just running all the weight in the point when bare shafting with a compound bow.
Hmmm some info I needed. 400 spine "pole posts" at 32" arrows for 38# bow. 100gr points don't do it.... Should you suggest 200gr points or push up now poundage to 42#?
I have 60lbs bow from aliexpress, how much must i increase the weight of arrow? I have normal light weight carbon, it is about 240 grains. Do i really have to add about 350 grains to the tip? Or can i add for example 250 on tip and 100 on the back? Adding so much weight in the tip wont cause any issues?
I shoot barebow and my arrows do fly way to the left (having to aim off centre - blue ring), would that be down to a stiff arrow then :o ? I have been baffled for so long, my button tension has been set as weak as it can too
I don't understand why you jumped two spine stiffness and was no poundage difference in the bow. McKinney make a 450 spine. And a jump from 500 to 400 is way too much...pointing out the obvious. That's a 20% less flex in arrow, and the arrow length isn't longer to make up for that. I mean like considerably longer. And you mentioned the internal part of the point shortening the flex.!? It's definitely not the same as dropping from like a 700 to a 600 spine. That's why they make a '50.
For someone ranked #1, there is so much you are missing. First off, you are testing a smaller shaft against a larger shaft, ON THE SAME BOW and set up. NO, you cannot do this. The smaller shaft will hit LOW as you did not set you tune up to the smaller shaft. The smaller shaft will also not be centered left to right. It will be pointing to the left too much. You CANNOT test two completely different arrows on the same bow with the same set up. Sorry, but you have no clue what you are doing. Also the tuning of your plunger button will not be the same. So you CANNOT tell just from where one arrow hits compared to another, when you are shooting a new arrow with your old arrow bow set up. I feel sorry for those you coach if you cannot even do your own bow right.
its basically 0.5mm shifted centershot. Doesn't matter, as you saw the arrow was still way to stiff with half a meter. For micro tuning yes you need to pay attention to the details.
I had to try to look it up. If it's an insignificant difference, then maybe, but what if it's more? We are talking Outside diameter, not inside. I couldn't find the shaft sizes for McKinney. But just using skyline as an example for the 4.2s. Paragon 500 3.2s have an OD of 4.90mm. And radius (I know it's not McKinney), 4.2 400s have an OD of 6.13mm. So only 1.25 ish mm. But that's the whole radius. The centre shot would be out half that and up half that. 0.62 mm.
As always, your video rocks. I have always been curious why people say stiff arrows shoot left and weak ones shoot right. Now that I hear the explanation, it seems pretty obvious. Thank you for the demo, video, experimentation, and explanations. GOOD LUCK !
This is why i like recurve. Its a bloody challange! You struggle and when u get the bareshafts in gold at 30m you feel like a champion :D Its so satifying getting the arrows tuned. For compound its so much easier and its like cheating in comparison.
Thanks for sharing the experiment!!
The heavier point also serves the purpose of giving u a more forgiving node while trying to give u the spine u need for better arrow flight.
I was able to do that with my compound setup. I used a Valkyrie Viking Centerpin system. The Valkyrie 210 grain point screws into a 22 grain collar that is glued to the shaft. The threads on the point r actually @ the oppo
opposite end of the field point so u push this centerpin that goes far into the shaft until it stops & then u screw the point onto the threads. These r match grained points to go with the Valkyrie short Jagger 210 grain broadhead. With the Victory VAP TKO's in a 300 spine which recovers quickly I was able to get incredible results. Then I repeated the process with the Blackeagle X-Impact's with a 250 spine. I wanted to try out the Blackeagle shafts that I made to get them to fly like my VAP TKO's due to them being offered in a 250 spine. My theory was that if I went with the 300 spine that they would be underspined. It was a success & @ 64 lbs. I have great arrow flight. The 250 spine recovers quickly & r more similar in weight to the TKO's. No sight or tuning adjustments needed. 😁
Perfect timing. I need new arrows for my 46lbs limbs (planning to go upward to 51lbs for practice)
I love the Bohning Impulse vane too. Unfortunately they don't make these anymore. I even asked Bohning via email and they confirmed it. So get them while you still get some!
The heavier the point, the lighter the spine will react. Now, the heavier the overall weight of the arrow, the more forgiving, but.... this only works for long distance outside, the smaller the O.D. the shaft is. Less area for the wind to push against. So a thin, overall heavy arrow with a heavy point would be best. There should have been no need to even test this. It has been a know element of archery for decades. The more FOC you can get, the more forgiving it will be also. You basically want that point to PULL the arrow down range. If it is too light, which so many assume is better for long range, and they are all wrong, the arrow will struggle to get there and to hit the target if there is too much wind. You have to find that happy medium in there somewhere, depending on you and your bow.
I've seen these guys shooting compounds on 3D targets with light arrows @ very long distances. They seem to get this parachute effect on the very long shots when the arrow looses it's energy & there's not enough weight up front to PULL the arrow straight. I never shoot these ridiculous distances but @ all distances I've shot I've found that I don't get the massive drop off with my arrows. I also don't have the outlier shots going to the left or right on a target. The penetration is also very good with that resounding thud upon impact. 👌
Hey Stephen, it's been really hard to find heavy field points. As a traditional archer, I very much need to use heavier broadhead and so as heavier field points. I know you have
KAYUGA GEN 2 field points in stock, but those are not that great. Please check out 'Ethics archery' as they make very good arrow components like field points and different size inserts for very much all brands. But getting those in Australia is not very easy for many reasons.
Great video .... Weren't you supposed to do a comparison with the ELITES @18 n 50 meters.... ???
All I could say is wow that 200 green point flies like a dart if you look at it in the video
Hi Stephen, i've been watching/following you since 2015 when i bought a compound bow from you! I still am a novice in archery, but i noticed something in this video that you may not be aware off! Maybe it has no value to your shooting, but i thought to mention it to you as to me "it" could make a difference to getting better results! As you know, everything in archery is related to each other, but if one thing is out of whack (that's how i see it) others can't be relied upon! Now my point to this is, in this video, when you draw back and get to your anchor point, your 3rd finger seams to "over" draw the string a little, which makes the string not in a straight line with the rest of the string! Which to my knowledge is torquing the string! Not the bow, but the string! Pls, have a look, and see what you think? As mentioned before, i am a novice, so if this not an important issue, pls accept my apologies! However if it does mean something that should be avoided, i'd be happy to hear! Cheers Eddie
Thank you, I learnt a lot from this video. Much appreciated. I'm a big fan of your store and I have used both online and POS. The online could do with some help 😉
The bare shaft has a softer dynamic spine than the shafts with vanes.
Love your videos! I have a question:
Have you ever spray painted a recurve riser and could you share how you did it?
I'm getting a new riser in anodized black. I want to make it lime green prefferably in way that it looks like anodization.
I see some videos about painting compound bows. They just spray them with the color and done!
I asked around and i was told that i need a etching primer, under color like black or silver, the color itself (candy) and i need to finish it with a 2K clear coat.
I wonder what your thoughts are about this.
Very interesting stuff
If your bare shafts are impacting in the group of vaned shafts will indicate an incorrectly tuned bow.
just a thought, but is it not possible that the bare shaft test was flawed. For instance tip weight was increased to de rate the spine, but then the insert ran several inches up the shaft which to my mind reinforces the shaft prior to the point and in effect 'shortens' the flexible portion of the shaft thereby uprating rating the spine. So two competing influences happening at once. I'd be willing to bet that if you had a 200gr tungsten tip where it was all in tip, you would have found your bare shaft test with the heavier tip to have been much more conclusive. I've found this even with FACT weighting arrows with a light tip vs just running all the weight in the point when bare shafting with a compound bow.
Hmmm some info I needed. 400 spine "pole posts" at 32" arrows for 38# bow. 100gr points don't do it....
Should you suggest 200gr points or push up now poundage to 42#?
Best archer GILLo
Steven put a 250 grains point if you can on the same setup
I have 60lbs bow from aliexpress, how much must i increase the weight of arrow? I have normal light weight carbon, it is about 240 grains. Do i really have to add about 350 grains to the tip? Or can i add for example 250 on tip and 100 on the back? Adding so much weight in the tip wont cause any issues?
Steve, warm up by waving your arms around and using resistance bands.
50+ pounds! How much more poundage do you think you're realistically going to go up to get that bareshaft to group?
makes me wonder what nespoli's tune was in 2012 when he was pulling a whopping 68lbs.
I shoot barebow and my arrows do fly way to the left (having to aim off centre - blue ring), would that be down to a stiff arrow then :o ? I have been baffled for so long, my button tension has been set as weak as it can too
the guy from pandarus recommends to use the easton spine chart to select arrows. how accurate is that?
Man I'm 200 Greenfield points fly so beautifully
I don't understand why you jumped two spine stiffness and was no poundage difference in the bow. McKinney make a 450 spine. And a jump from 500 to 400 is way too much...pointing out the obvious. That's a 20% less flex in arrow, and the arrow length isn't longer to make up for that. I mean like considerably longer. And you mentioned the internal part of the point shortening the flex.!?
It's definitely not the same as dropping from like a 700 to a 600 spine. That's why they make a '50.
It would certainly have been better to go to 450 than a 400 straight away, unless he didn't have 450's on hand.
Is it opposite for left handed?
Why do you want the arrows to drop at 165 meters?
No offence the audio still messing up my ears. cant watch the video properly
For someone ranked #1, there is so much you are missing. First off, you are testing a smaller shaft against a larger shaft, ON THE SAME BOW and set up. NO, you cannot do this. The smaller shaft will hit LOW as you did not set you tune up to the smaller shaft. The smaller shaft will also not be centered left to right. It will be pointing to the left too much. You CANNOT test two completely different arrows on the same bow with the same set up. Sorry, but you have no clue what you are doing. Also the tuning of your plunger button will not be the same. So you CANNOT tell just from where one arrow hits compared to another, when you are shooting a new arrow with your old arrow bow set up. I feel sorry for those you coach if you cannot even do your own bow right.
Wow, you must then be the world's best archer and coach. Rather keep your idiotic comments for yourself
Maybe you should do a channel so we can all see how wonderful and experienced you are
its basically 0.5mm shifted centershot. Doesn't matter, as you saw the arrow was still way to stiff with half a meter. For micro tuning yes you need to pay attention to the details.
I had to try to look it up. If it's an insignificant difference, then maybe, but what if it's more? We are talking Outside diameter, not inside.
I couldn't find the shaft sizes for McKinney. But just using skyline as an example for the 4.2s.
Paragon 500 3.2s have an OD of 4.90mm.
And radius (I know it's not McKinney), 4.2 400s have an OD of 6.13mm.
So only 1.25 ish mm. But that's the whole radius. The centre shot would be out half that and up half that. 0.62 mm.
I’ve got a 340spine 100 grain tip at 60 pounds can’t get a good paper tune anyone know the problem