Skylon recommends a 450 spine for those stats. 400 spine is basically what i'd need at 30.8" If you're dead set on shooting that poundage most ideal would be to get a 450 spine. Only thing that comes to mind to weaken the arrows is to use the impact collar or anything that'll add more mass to the rear. You also need to keep in mind that if you're going to go with those rediculous points, that you'll be stiffening your spine due to the sheer size of mass inside the shaft. You're probably shooting close to a 350 spine now. Tungsten points should help but i'm not sure to wich degree it will at this point. Tho your centreshot is most likely out of wack aswell. eyeball it first and then a walkback tune from 10 to 30m to see how your arrows drop to get the dynamic centreshot spot on.
I costs me almost 3 months to finally tune my bow, such a tedious process, god, and the thinking of I need to move up in bow weight in the future scaring me. Everyone in my club does not tune their bow properly and had no knowledge of bow tuning neither, they just shoot the fletch arrows and "see" if it's flying straight and they call it a day, not to disrespect them but LOL. Most of them shoot similar bow weight (35 ~ 36lbs) and similar draw length (26.5 ~ 27") to me but 2 spines stiffer (700) than mine (900). One thing I think most affects the arrow spine/tuning is the arrow length and point weight, back weight also considerable. I got similar problem with spin wings, always group up right comparing to the bareshafts and plastic vanes. Plunger is the last thing I want to touch in bow tuning, it masks the problem so hard and make you believe your bow is tuned but it not
Bare shaft tuning isn't just about the impact point. Your shafts ate clearly all angled to the left. This is most likely a centre shot issue. Keep in mind that with a recurve you can't just move from 3.2mm Pandarus to 4.2mm arrows. The different thickness will have to have different plunger settings.
Your shooting is very good but those arrows are definitely stiff, if you did the same test at 30m you would find the bareshaft is way further to the left. You can tell by the angle that the arrow is in the target. The plunger won't ever be able to correct for an arrow that is very stiff or weak, it will only move the group left and right. Also point weight doesn't make a huge difference on the dynamic spine of an arrow because the extra weight makes the point longer which in turn leaves less arrow shaft that is able to flex. Might be worth trying a 450 spine with the same point weight.
I know what you mean by experimenting with equipment. I just added more weight to the stabilizers, and shortened the DL, whilst going back 10 more yards. I may have just mucked it up. I'll find out tomorrow. Thanks for the video always enjoy watching you shoot and the analysis 🏹🤠👍.
The group moved right because you needed to tighten the plunger, not loosen it. Clockwise tightens, anti-clockwise loosens. So when it was just right of centre a half click clockwise might have sorted it.
To me a big part of archery is learning things like building a bow from scratch, tuning the bow, building arrows, etc. I would not enjoy it nearly as much if I had to take my bow to a shop for every little thing or buy all my arrows pre-made. Yeah it can be frustrating figuring things out, but when you do it's tremendously gratifying. Too me anyway.
Everyone that shoots any bow should watch this. It takes hours and hours to get it right. So many want to go to bow shop for 1 hour and everything is good. Lol..... thats not how it works. Hours of tuning yourself, your bow, your arrows
Steven, I've noticed you apply a large amount of facial contact when shooting recurve. At the end of the session there is a red line on the tip of your nose from the pressure of the string. I only shoot compound so I'm not well versed in recurve. I'm just wondering if this is common. This is not meant to question facial dimensions. Your videos are great. Thanks! Keep them coming.
Have you checked your tiller? I faffed for ages moving my nocking point up and down. It should have been spot on, but the bare shaft was going high. I have a high grip, and this affected the tiller (I didn't know this), but I had to take ½ a turn off the top limb and the nocking point stayed the same at 6mm, but the bare shaft was only 10mm lower than the fletched arrows at 20 yards, and I went from needing the spring tension at almost maximum to middling and flying like a dream.
Tiller isn't something you should just start messing with to tune arrows. Apart from the fact that it's a horrible idea, it's also potentially dangerous. You wouldn't be the first to split your limbs due to tiller reduction not having enough string groove. Tiller is decided by the limbs to have them perform most optimally (usually around 1.5 to 2cm of stringgroove), Tillersplit is what you use to distribute the drawweight across your fingers.
@@shredfreak83 the tiller difference reduced by 4mm. I disagree. If you ask any barebow archer that string walks, they often have negative tiller. Yes, having very mismatched tiller between top and bottom is a recipe for disaster, but relying on factory settings is very unwise. I've always been told that you need positive tiller of about ¼", but mine had been factory set to 2mm. At 4mm, it was bang on. These days, the recommendation is between 0 and 4mm, but it depends on limb manufacturer, which is why you need to look at tiller and adjust it accordingly.
@@adamkilroe9840 70" bow my tillersplit ends up being -20mm for barebow, so i ordered a gt27 wich is assymmetric to solve the issue. i'm pretty much using my gt25 for olympic recurve atm wich works within the normal parameters. Will most likely be switching to the gray aix 27 inch riser next year or hope i can still get my paws on a g1 27 at some point.
Not bad don't over think things you should stick 2 one set of arowes ye try stuff once you get a feeling an don't over think bare shaft forget it if it's with in a inch or 2 it should be fine
I don't clout, so it may be different, but bare shafts dead inside the fletched groups may not give you the best groups overall; have heard a few Olympic level archers mention their best group tune had their bare shafts outside the fletched groups.
I'm also calling 450 spine for this bow... Has been mentioned already. You are talking about testing things, but you keep mentioning new limbs when the arrow shafts are clearly a bad match for that bow.
Good video ,but you are at the extreme end of the principles of arrow dynamics . The 200 grain point is too extreme to make the shaft weaken enough to get the bare shaft in the group. Go for a 450 spine ,drop the point weight and bow weight ,and I'm sure the tune will be pretty close to perfect 😁🏹
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Skylon recommends a 450 spine for those stats. 400 spine is basically what i'd need at 30.8"
If you're dead set on shooting that poundage most ideal would be to get a 450 spine.
Only thing that comes to mind to weaken the arrows is to use the impact collar or anything that'll add more mass to the rear.
You also need to keep in mind that if you're going to go with those rediculous points, that you'll be stiffening your spine due to the sheer size of mass inside the shaft. You're probably shooting close to a 350 spine now. Tungsten points should help but i'm not sure to wich degree it will at this point.
Tho your centreshot is most likely out of wack aswell. eyeball it first and then a walkback tune from 10 to 30m to see how your arrows drop to get the dynamic centreshot spot on.
I costs me almost 3 months to finally tune my bow, such a tedious process, god, and the thinking of I need to move up in bow weight in the future scaring me. Everyone in my club does not tune their bow properly and had no knowledge of bow tuning neither, they just shoot the fletch arrows and "see" if it's flying straight and they call it a day, not to disrespect them but LOL. Most of them shoot similar bow weight (35 ~ 36lbs) and similar draw length (26.5 ~ 27") to me but 2 spines stiffer (700) than mine (900). One thing I think most affects the arrow spine/tuning is the arrow length and point weight, back weight also considerable. I got similar problem with spin wings, always group up right comparing to the bareshafts and plastic vanes. Plunger is the last thing I want to touch in bow tuning, it masks the problem so hard and make you believe your bow is tuned but it not
Bare shaft tuning isn't just about the impact point. Your shafts ate clearly all angled to the left. This is most likely a centre shot issue. Keep in mind that with a recurve you can't just move from 3.2mm Pandarus to 4.2mm arrows. The different thickness will have to have different plunger settings.
Your shooting is very good but those arrows are definitely stiff, if you did the same test at 30m you would find the bareshaft is way further to the left. You can tell by the angle that the arrow is in the target. The plunger won't ever be able to correct for an arrow that is very stiff or weak, it will only move the group left and right. Also point weight doesn't make a huge difference on the dynamic spine of an arrow because the extra weight makes the point longer which in turn leaves less arrow shaft that is able to flex. Might be worth trying a 450 spine with the same point weight.
I know what you mean by experimenting with equipment. I just added more weight to the stabilizers, and shortened the DL, whilst going back 10 more yards. I may have just mucked it up. I'll find out tomorrow. Thanks for the video always enjoy watching you shoot and the analysis 🏹🤠👍.
The group moved right because you needed to tighten the plunger, not loosen it. Clockwise tightens, anti-clockwise loosens. So when it was just right of centre a half click clockwise might have sorted it.
To me a big part of archery is learning things like building a bow from scratch, tuning the bow, building arrows, etc. I would not enjoy it nearly as much if I had to take my bow to a shop for every little thing or buy all my arrows pre-made. Yeah it can be frustrating figuring things out, but when you do it's tremendously gratifying. Too me anyway.
Everyone that shoots any bow should watch this. It takes hours and hours to get it right. So many want to go to bow shop for 1 hour and everything is good. Lol..... thats not how it works. Hours of tuning yourself, your bow, your arrows
Steven, I've noticed you apply a large amount of facial contact when shooting recurve. At the end of the session there is a red line on the tip of your nose from the pressure of the string. I only shoot compound so I'm not well versed in recurve. I'm just wondering if this is common. This is not meant to question facial dimensions. Your videos are great. Thanks! Keep them coming.
Have you checked your tiller? I faffed for ages moving my nocking point up and down. It should have been spot on, but the bare shaft was going high. I have a high grip, and this affected the tiller (I didn't know this), but I had to take ½ a turn off the top limb and the nocking point stayed the same at 6mm, but the bare shaft was only 10mm lower than the fletched arrows at 20 yards, and I went from needing the spring tension at almost maximum to middling and flying like a dream.
Tiller isn't something you should just start messing with to tune arrows.
Apart from the fact that it's a horrible idea, it's also potentially dangerous. You wouldn't be the first to split your limbs due to tiller reduction not having enough string groove.
Tiller is decided by the limbs to have them perform most optimally (usually around 1.5 to 2cm of stringgroove), Tillersplit is what you use to distribute the drawweight across your fingers.
@@shredfreak83 the tiller difference reduced by 4mm. I disagree. If you ask any barebow archer that string walks, they often have negative tiller. Yes, having very mismatched tiller between top and bottom is a recipe for disaster, but relying on factory settings is very unwise. I've always been told that you need positive tiller of about ¼", but mine had been factory set to 2mm. At 4mm, it was bang on. These days, the recommendation is between 0 and 4mm, but it depends on limb manufacturer, which is why you need to look at tiller and adjust it accordingly.
@@adamkilroe9840 70" bow my tillersplit ends up being -20mm for barebow, so i ordered a gt27 wich is assymmetric to solve the issue. i'm pretty much using my gt25 for olympic recurve atm wich works within the normal parameters. Will most likely be switching to the gray aix 27 inch riser next year or hope i can still get my paws on a g1 27 at some point.
Have you thought about going down in string strand count?
This is an interesting point, tooo.
I have often thought about " fewer strands = higher f.p.s. " tooo.
Rubber washer? Rubber wedge to further hold down limbs?
Take full turn off they will go in middle?
Not bad don't over think things you should stick 2 one set of arowes ye try stuff once you get a feeling an don't over think bare shaft forget it if it's with in a inch or 2 it should be fine
I don't clout, so it may be different, but bare shafts dead inside the fletched groups may not give you the best groups overall; have heard a few Olympic level archers mention their best group tune had their bare shafts outside the fletched groups.
I'm also calling 450 spine for this bow... Has been mentioned already.
You are talking about testing things, but you keep mentioning new limbs when the arrow shafts are clearly a bad match for that bow.
Good video ,but you are at the extreme end of the principles of arrow dynamics . The 200 grain point is too extreme to make the shaft weaken enough to get the bare shaft in the group.
Go for a 450 spine ,drop the point weight and bow weight ,and I'm sure the tune will be pretty close to perfect 😁🏹
Half a turn
Your group after turning down the plunger button is showing WEAK, I would turn down the poundage.
First again. Boom