Thank you! I have a mybo mykan which is made for barebow, so it is balanced without weights. Today I put your weights on (8 and 14) and now it falls forwards. Have not shot it yet, but will try tomorrow. Will try the different positions for the weights, to get it balanced again.
Some rules of thumb: 1. Weight in the top pocket is beneficial, but should be balanced with at least as much weight in the bottom pocket. 2. Weight as far forward as possible corrects for the limbs pulling the center of gravity backwards. 3. The amount of weight you can put on the ends of the riser is limited by the riser’s stiffness. You will know it’s too much if you feel weird low frequency vibrations. 4. Weight on the rear (belly) of the riser can help slow twisting/torque on release. 5. Weight should only be added on the rear (belly) of the riser below the grip. 6. Dampening is most effective on the extremities of the riser. I think every barebow archer should have some kind of dampening weight in the top bushing of their riser (maybe a CD riser is an exception). It has improved the feel of every bow I’ve tried it on. Adding somewhere between 1-2x that amount of weight to the bottom pocket bushing will balance that out. Then work out your ideal bow reaction by adding weight to the center bushing.
I would recommend trying this again using a bow that has a bushing in the rear lower section of the riser such as the GMX 3 series, currently run a 14oz in the middle, 8oz in rear bottom and 8oz in the top, sits dead straight. A big reason I can’t shoot the ATF-DX is due to the lack of rear lower bushing, after having the option it’s hard to go back.
I'm currently have a Sebastien Flute Ascent with a pair of 30 lbs Sebastien Flute Evo limbs for my barebow. The weight setup I have are a 600 grams homemade dampened weight at the middle front pocket, a 300 grams homemade dampened weight at the bottom pocket, a combination of 4 oz+4 oz (right and left) side weight under the middle pocket, and a combination of 2 oz+2 oz (right and left) side weight above the bottom pocket. That setup makes my bow leans forward a bit when you hang it idle. When I shoot it's just jump out straight to the front. *Sorryformybadenglish
Hi Jake Watching your bare bow weight placement demo, I noticed that when you placed an arrow into the bow, you then reached forward and clicked something by the handle to hold the arrow in position. Can you please explain what it is? Thanks Jake, I fing your videos and guidance a great help. Please keep it going. Thanks Steve Bowden UK
I always tried to make the bow stable with the least amount of weight. When I used a lot of weight, I felt that it was difficult to move the bow. When he moved, he tended to over-move. The bow is more controllable if the weights are near the limb pockets. With in this shape weighted bow, behaves better for up and down shots. With the mass concentrated only in the middle, the lateral rotation decreased, but it started to wobble. A lot of weight only helps static stability, it is not good for dynamic stability, and it is also tiring.
The weight of the equipment I use has reached about 5kg. As you said, dynamic movement would be a bit too much. For example, if I want to move up to X, it will unconsciously move to the upper eight rings. I need to add a downward movement. You have to move to return to the tenth ring, but once you enter a static state, the stability is very strong.
great video looking forward to have one of those JK weights, hey i dont know if you have a video on this or maybe im too ignorant but why the grip in everything that is bareboww is way down the arrow and olimpic style the grip is between fingers.
Apparently Jake won't do VCRs any longer. Here's an extract of an email I received from Heather : « Unfortunately, VCRs are no longer offered. However, Jake is able to do digital/virtual coaching if you’re interested in that. You can use the online scheduler to select a date and time and then in the notes add *virtual coaching in the notes. »
Jake you probably are affected by the honey class action lawsuit by the youtuber legaleagle you should definitely look into joining this lawsuit since i know affiliate links are huge for you and your channel 😊
Two questions, if shooting off the shelf with a recurve how high do you like to set your top nocking point for split finger? Second, when it comes to split finger do most people have a light hook or deep hook?
Still have a trad class. Why not let a weight go above the grip if some risers are designed that way now? Also dampers just make the bow quieter, and your body isn’t as punished through a practice session.
I disagree, Dave. IMO barebow should be you can shoot whatever you want as long as it doesn’t have a sight, doesn’t have a clicker, and the riser and attachments fit in the barebow measuring ring. Beyond that, if you shoot better than me then bravo to you. You want to put weight somewhere on the bow, fine by me. You want to put a mark on your string so you don’t have to use the ticks on your tab? Fine by me. I’ve always thought rule that disallows weight on the top of the riser to be a dumb rule, so I’m glad they got rid of it. Just make it fit through the ring and if you shoot it great that way, then that’s great for you and I guess I’ll have to try it myself to see if I can catch up to you.
Thank you! I have a mybo mykan which is made for barebow, so it is balanced without weights. Today I put your weights on (8 and 14) and now it falls forwards. Have not shot it yet, but will try tomorrow. Will try the different positions for the weights, to get it balanced again.
Some rules of thumb:
1. Weight in the top pocket is beneficial, but should be balanced with at least as much weight in the bottom pocket.
2. Weight as far forward as possible corrects for the limbs pulling the center of gravity backwards.
3. The amount of weight you can put on the ends of the riser is limited by the riser’s stiffness. You will know it’s too much if you feel weird low frequency vibrations.
4. Weight on the rear (belly) of the riser can help slow twisting/torque on release.
5. Weight should only be added on the rear (belly) of the riser below the grip.
6. Dampening is most effective on the extremities of the riser.
I think every barebow archer should have some kind of dampening weight in the top bushing of their riser (maybe a CD riser is an exception). It has improved the feel of every bow I’ve tried it on. Adding somewhere between 1-2x that amount of weight to the bottom pocket bushing will balance that out. Then work out your ideal bow reaction by adding weight to the center bushing.
If your shooting canted would this still apply? Seems like it wouldn’t work the same
@@pennyontrackIt would want to fight the cant.
@@pennyontrack you really shouldn’t shoot a setup that uses an elevated rest and plunger canted. That would preclude most modern barebow setups.
@@InFerrumVeritas can you elaborate on that. What happens if you do? I’m very new to this
Great information. :)
I'd love to see you do this with the Mybo Mykan.
Thank you for the video, Jake.
Hi Jake. You can try 14oz top and bottom and an 8oz below the handle based on what you explored.
I would recommend trying this again using a bow that has a bushing in the rear lower section of the riser such as the GMX 3 series, currently run a 14oz in the middle, 8oz in rear bottom and 8oz in the top, sits dead straight. A big reason I can’t shoot the ATF-DX is due to the lack of rear lower bushing, after having the option it’s hard to go back.
I'm currently have a Sebastien Flute Ascent with a pair of 30 lbs Sebastien Flute Evo limbs for my barebow. The weight setup I have are a 600 grams homemade dampened weight at the middle front pocket, a 300 grams homemade dampened weight at the bottom pocket, a combination of 4 oz+4 oz (right and left) side weight under the middle pocket, and a combination of 2 oz+2 oz (right and left) side weight above the bottom pocket.
That setup makes my bow leans forward a bit when you hang it idle. When I shoot it's just jump out straight to the front.
*Sorryformybadenglish
Hi Jake
Watching your bare bow weight placement demo, I noticed that when you placed an arrow into the bow, you then reached forward and clicked something by the handle to hold the arrow in position. Can you please explain what it is?
Thanks Jake, I fing your videos and guidance a great help. Please keep it going.
Thanks
Steve Bowden UK
I always tried to make the bow stable with the least amount of weight. When I used a lot of weight, I felt that it was difficult to move the bow. When he moved, he tended to over-move. The bow is more controllable if the weights are near the limb pockets. With in this shape weighted bow, behaves better for up and down shots. With the mass concentrated only in the middle, the lateral rotation decreased, but it started to wobble. A lot of weight only helps static stability, it is not good for dynamic stability, and it is also tiring.
The weight of the equipment I use has reached about 5kg. As you said, dynamic movement would be a bit too much. For example, if I want to move up to X, it will unconsciously move to the upper eight rings. I need to add a downward movement. You have to move to return to the tenth ring, but once you enter a static state, the stability is very strong.
great video looking forward to have one of those JK weights, hey i dont know if you have a video on this or maybe im too ignorant but why the grip in everything that is bareboww is way down the arrow and olimpic style the grip is between fingers.
Same riser I have 8, 14, 21 top to bottom.
Hi Jake, I bought a video coaching review but I haven't been able to redeem it. How do I get in contact with you to do the review?
Apparently Jake won't do VCRs any longer. Here's an extract of an email I received from Heather :
« Unfortunately, VCRs are no longer offered. However, Jake is able to do digital/virtual coaching if you’re interested in that. You can use the online scheduler to select a date and time and then in the notes add *virtual coaching in the notes. »
Why do you use the length arrows that you're using in this video?
Jake you probably are affected by the honey class action lawsuit by the youtuber legaleagle you should definitely look into joining this lawsuit since i know affiliate links are huge for you and your channel 😊
That last set-up would give me a hernia.
Two questions, if shooting off the shelf with a recurve how high do you like to set your top nocking point for split finger? Second, when it comes to split finger do most people have a light hook or deep hook?
To talk slower was a resolutions for the new year, wasn't it? 😂
Ha! Actually my aligned have forced me
To slow down.
Just use the video speed feature of RUclips. I watch most of Jake's videos at 2x the speed.
I'm a french native and Jake's pronunciation is perfect to watch without subtitles!
Mmm. The way it's going, they'll be allowing sights next. We seem to to be getting away from the concept of what a barebow is.
Still have a trad class.
Why not let a weight go above the grip if some risers are designed that way now?
Also dampers just make the bow quieter, and your body isn’t as punished through a practice session.
Do you shoot barebow, or are you just upset that something you don’t participate in doesn’t align with what you think it should be?
I disagree, Dave. IMO barebow should be you can shoot whatever you want as long as it doesn’t have a sight, doesn’t have a clicker, and the riser and attachments fit in the barebow measuring ring. Beyond that, if you shoot better than me then bravo to you. You want to put weight somewhere on the bow, fine by me. You want to put a mark on your string so you don’t have to use the ticks on your tab? Fine by me. I’ve always thought rule that disallows weight on the top of the riser to be a dumb rule, so I’m glad they got rid of it. Just make it fit through the ring and if you shoot it great that way, then that’s great for you and I guess I’ll have to try it myself to see if I can catch up to you.