"Seems simple" nothing you do seems simple. Everything you do is complex and fascinating. Simple things like the collar to butt against the chuck or the centre extension. Love your work.
This is how I set up my jobs. Big up to you, you are an excellent machinist with a big heart, as always, generous with your skills. That machine is in good hands.
I worked in a machine shop decades ago (lackey, not a machinist), and it used to drive me batshit that I’d have to process (grind/chamfer/cut/drill/tap/paint/whatever) like 500 parts, and I never knew what they were for. The shop owner never knew either. We had specs, and just had to make them, whatever they were. There’s no practical reason I’d need to know anything but the specifications for the part, but when it took a week to finish the parts, I’d go nuts just trying to figure out what the hell they were. I couldn’t handle it.
Great job! The multi camera angles and editing is almost so natural you don't notice. The view is exactly where I would be sticking my head in to take a look. Love your channel.
I really value your videos man!! Keep up the great work! I'm a young machinist just starting my career and the knowledge and experience from people like you keep me motivated to reach your level one day. thank you!
very nice compliment - this guy is just the most unassuming great guy - his knowledge - all self taught - is encyclopedic (no one uses that term an more) anyhoooo - awesome and damn clever.
excellent work. I have a lot of experience milling features on cylindrical parts in a mill/turn environment, it can be a real headache with tons of tight clearance movement on more than one axis at once - considerable "pucker factor" to be had when inching through the program prove-out process with rapid at crawl and feed turned down to 5%! Takes a real sharp programmer to get this stuff right so kudos to you.
7:52 That's one hell of a caliper size. :) Nice looking part :D Yeah, machining small diameter work on a big machine can be challenging. At work, one of our big 5 axis Mazak does some small single vice jobs, and it's just overkill. Many tools requiring extensions and or extra long stickouts and being over 9 inches long. Chatter issues everywhere. But we don't have the work to maximize the table. So were stuck with this crap. :( We have new smaller machine, but apparently it's harder than it looks to transfer jobs. Still a Mazak even.
yes it looks like you would have to use a very small end mill to be able to do that kind of pocketing op. and then go back with the contouring to get the wall shape. cool videos! Do you have any comments about the inverse time feed / post.
I guess I might if I understand what that is. I haven’t maintained my Maintence agreement for about 4-5 years on Esprit. (Costs to much) Is that something new?
@@EdgePrecision plz upoad this video.. i m facing same issue ..i am not getting those sides parallal to each other in j slots. plz let ups teach how to prog this
Awesome, I'm glad I found your videos today! Currently at the family shop myself pumping out some oddly shaped servo bodies. Trying to convince the old man to move us past our VMC's into more difficult work.
@ the 15:00 mark your talking about the difference in angle between the centerline and the od of the part caused by programming the slot from the centerline? This is why the smaller tool causes what I would assume would be a slightly taper of the slot? That piece of information put me through a loop as a mill guy, thanks for any clarification.
When you do wrapped milling the tool usually stays on centerline (it doesn’t have to). So if milling a pocket or slot wider than the tool diameter the only way to reach the wall is to rotate the rotary axis(in this case the C axis). In the case of this j-slot the sides of the slot will not be parallel to each other. Now a pin has to run down this t-slot. If the sides taper in at the bottom makes the bottom of the slot smaller. This would interfere with the pins end. Now you can mill this feature with the tool off center but you can’t do it in one pass. You would have to do one side than move up in Z than over to the other side. Than down and mill the other side. Does that makes sense? I hope so. Or is it even more confusing.
Thanks for the reply! Now when your milling the .250 thru slot parallel to the .625 did you have to create a separate work shift to move you Y off center? Is this still considered wrapped milling?
Esprit is a powerful software but it does take a while to learn. There is a guy that makes training cd’s. I have some they are very good. A little boring but good. The one on making or modifying your post is really helpful. I can’t off the top of my head remember his name. If you are interested I can get that for you.
We do these parts at work, they can be fun to program. You can get the bottom of the slots to look nice by surfacing with a small ball nose but it takes forever and like you said, it’s not critical to the function of the part.
Yes I knew the minute I made that remark someone would point that out. I considered rerecording the voice over but decided to just leave it. I generally find the first take of the voice over works the best for some reason. Thanks.
It works better for the kind of work I do. The chucking and aligning of the work isn't a large amount of time compared to the cycle time of the work I typically do. Also there are other advantages to a manual 4-jaw chuck. You need fewer soft jaws. The chuck doesn't loose it's clamping force compared to a hydraulic with speed, so the part is held more securely at higher speeds with heavy jaws. Also some of the parts I do have more than one center-line. So they have to be turned off center. Although not impossible in a hydraulic chuck it's a lot easier in a manual 4-jaw chuck. The jaws have more travel range, so I can use jaws with large undercuts. Such as the dovetail jaws I often use. These are just a few reasons.
@@EdgePrecision Interesting. I was under the impression that in terms of clamping force vs rpm, that hydraulic chucks had the advantage. Side question, how difficult is it to change out the chuck?
@@elijahgreenberg2634 It is not to difficult to change a chuck. In my case I also removed the draw tube to get a larger spindle bore of 6.65” in diameter. And yes a hydraulic chucks clamping force reduces with RPM. That is why you should limit the speed when doing facing cuts in constant surface footage. When the tool gets to center if the speed is not controlled the spindle will go to its max RPM. If you have heavy jaws this could totally lose a grip on the part. This is why with hydraulic chucks the facing cut is the most dangerous.
Congrats man!! it is clear you really know machining. i would like if you publish milling machining conditions. what cam software do you use?? thanks for your demos
I'm curious, have you ever tried Sandvik's CoroMill Plura end Mills for turn milling? They have a flat bottom vs. the typical concave bottom, supposedly eliminating the finish problem you described.
No I have not. I did consider grinding a special flat tipped endmill especially for this job. But they were in such a hurry I just went with standard tooling. I wasn't aware that Sandvik made such a cutter I will check into it thanks.
I thought the manually cut/jogged taper was a lot of fun to watch too... All such beautiful work. What would happen if a planned finish turning cut was applied all the way along the shaft; would that mess up all the slots/ chamfering of edges. Would be cool if you could one day do a 'Vid" on hand de-burring techniques versus what can be programmed on such a machine. Thanks so VERY much for these videos. Really important stuff :-) Cheers!
I think a finish cut after the slotting would be problematic. It would probably cause chatter where the slots are. Even the finishing endmill on the long .250 slots chattered very slightly. Not enough to matter but I could hear it. I have thought about a deburring video. Thanks.
Cool video, I program rotary dies with Esprit and if you use a wrap pocketing routine and run the tool perpendicular to the center line of the shaft with 30-40% step over the floors come out really sweet. Not sure if it would work with the part you are running but if you have the room and need a good finish it works well. Did you have any issues with the post and the inverse time feed requirements for the J channel op?
Thanks Nate; The issue with these J-slots is the sides (according to the drawing) are parallel to each other. The don’t project to the centerline. If you could use a tool that is exactly the proper width that could work but because a standard endmill has a dish it won’t leave a square surface. It leaves a ridge in the middle. Especially when milling angles. A square ended endmill would do better. Than a ball mill with a small step over to clean up the radius from centerline over. This part it just wasn’t necessary. So I didn’t take the time.
Peter, what are your thoughts on slotting with an on-size endmill vs an undersize one? Not for this application specifically, but for slots or keyways in general. Also, do you have a typical process for setup? I have seen you do some aluminum setup parts, notably on the more high dollar value raw materials (although it seems like you do a lot of expensive / exotic materials). Do you do that all the time or do you favor the offsets a bit or just let 'er rip on the more comfortable jobs? Great work as always!
If I had to hold a close tolerance and finish on the width of the slot I wouldn't do it that way. On using setup parts out of aluminum it depends on the complexity of the part and the cost and availability of the material. Say you had a drop dead delivery date and a complicated part. But the material was very hard to get. Some kind of special or had expensive quality requirements and tests. I would generally run a setup part in those cases. Customer supplied material that's hard or imposable to replace is another reason. Who wants to go the customer and say you scrapped their material. It doesn't look very professional. Sometimes I like extra material of exactly the same as the part to test tools on like form tools burnishing tools and reamers. To make sure they are cutting to size. Things like that.
Tony Rios its not that hard. I did one with j slots. Only hard part is when the slot has a point the 3d printer has to have a built structure to start the slot
I worked in a coal mine and we used both sandvik and kennametal bits which tooling do u prefer for mining purposes I personally prefer sandvik there bits lasted longer and were cheaper just a question of quality ?
I'm not really stuck on one brand of tooling. I use many brands Iscar, Guhring, Hanita, US22, Sandvik, Tungaloy, Garr. These are a few of many more. I buy tools depending on what they can do. I will say this Sandvik makes the best anti vibration bars (They call them Silent Tools) of any I have tried. I use a lot of Sandvik tooling in the Mazak because of the Capto 8 taper of the spindle. In the horizontal I use very little to none. I am not that impressed with their milling tooling. Also their inserts are more expensive than other brands.
What is the yellow faced gage you use before the ring thread gage? Also a flat bottom endmill would make slot floor flat (cylindrical ) in short order.
The gauge is so old that the dial has yellowed a bit. The dial says Allen Gauge 102. I don't think they use that model number any more. Go to allengauges.com look at the thread depth gauges. You will see many different variation's of this type of gauge and many others.
At 12:49 does it matter that the part moved after the tail-stock was pressed on it or would that just push it to the same position that it was zeroed at before.
I assume your talking about the next parts after this first part. Yes because all the parts were turned the same on the first operation. The shoulder on that side is in the same place so the length will repeat to the same length. This is in fact exactly why I used the spacer. After the part with spacer was pushed up against the chuck jaws I set the part's zero on the end at the tail center.
Nice job Peter, I had to watch twice to get all the things going on with those slots. When you use a lathe dog like that do you need to worry about when you stop the spindle? Does the machine have a brake or does it coast down slowly?
Thanks, I probably could have turned the OD without the driving dog. The Tailstock puts a lot of pressure on the part. The driving dog is just for extra security. The spindle motor breaks down the speed fast but it doesn’t overcome the friction on the center.
I can see if the parts are the same as each other. That's what I was going for here. The actual tolerance was + - .030 on the length. But for the setup I wouldn't have to worry if the looked the same with the vernier calipers.
That is a valid question. These stayed straight because the pattern is symmetrical. If the pattern was just on one side that would certainly have been a issue.
Another awesome video. I keep meaning to ask you about your choice of chuck. Is there a special reason you run a manual 4 jaw chuck instead of some sort of hydraulic or is it just you run a lot of odd shape parts so you can run the jaws off centre or is it something else?
Thanks. When I first got this machine my first job required the full spindle bore capacity (6.65" dia.). This required taking off the hydraulic chuck and its draw tube. I mounted and used this 16.25" four jaw chuck as a economical way to solve this issue. After using it I found I liked it better for the type of work I do than the hydraulic chuck.
Another great video, here's to 100k subs this year. Just out of interest, if you need the sides of parallel slots to be parallel to each other, why can't you use a y axis cut rather than a c axis?
Thanks for the video, love the idea of turning a spacing plug! Do you ever do higbee threads when you machine acme threads? If so, would love to see a video on how to do a higbee thread properly! Keep up the good videos :)
Yes many parts require a blunt start or higbee on the thread. There are two ways to do that on this type of machine. The traditional way is to use a grooving tool in a very short threading cycle. This can be difficult if the higbee is on the first and last thread in a thread relief. The way I prefer to do it is by milling it. This can also be done in two ways with a slotting type of cutter (or just a endmill if its just on the front thread) with the milling spindle parallel to the thread. Or with a endmill with the milling spindle perpendicular to a OD thread. I prefer the milled Blunt start I think it is easer to do and looks better. I is easy to time the start with a C axis fixture offset.
Kristian Thompson Silva, I had no idea there was a proper term for that method of deburring threads! I machined some oilfield parts years ago where the print just said "remove partial thread to half thread width". Edge Precision, even your comments section is a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks for the advice I will have to give milling them a go. I haven't tried the milled style yet but can imagine it will be easier like you say. The only times I have done it has been on small diameter parts with a grooving tool on a straight 2 axis lathe, the only problem I find with this is that I have to slow the surface speed down so much too not remove an entire thread that the surface finish is poor. Would probably be okay with faster rapids on a larger diameter part.
You say it’s tricky to get the slot walls parallel to each other. Is that in the model or in the CAM processor? Does the model project a straight side slot and CAM just can’t translate it or are the walls radial in the model? Nice work as always.
In their documentation the gave me a Solid model but it was drawn incorrectly. Their drawing had a flat layout of the wrapped pockets that was dimensioned. I always go by the dimensioned drawing before the model. In tis case I had to regenerate a model of the wrapped layout and program from there. Some CAM software's let you do the traditional wrapped layout and work from a solid model (Esprit does). In this case I used a combination of both.
Edge Precision I’ve never used anything other than 3 axis MasterCAM so I’m not familiar with any live spindle work. It would be fun to try it though. Thanks for the reply.
It seems possible to try using a rastr strategy with the basic direction around the axis of rotation and 1 mm step. Then the surface would be smoother.
I knew when I said that I would get comments. I didn't want to rerecord the voice over so I left the comment. Its not imposable. You could go in with a small ball mill and get it smooth but it would take time. For the function of the part it wasn't necessary or even required by the customer.
I apologize - did not hear or could not understand, English - not my native language. However, I do not completely agree with the "ball mill", especially "small", because the smaller the diameter of the ball mill, the higher the height of the scallop, although I understand that a large diameter mill will leave a lot of material near the walls. In any case, based on personal experience, I can say that a simple end milling, will cope much better and the surface cleanliness after using the end mill will be higher than after the ball mill.
A .250 Ball Mill With a small step over(.005" or so) would clear out the OD radius. Or a Flat tipped endmill might work also. The problem with wrapped geometry cutting is you are part of the time cutting with the end face of the tool. With a traditional grind of the end of a endmill you have 1-1.5 degrees of cup in the end. Witch is fine for normal planer cutting. But going around a OD it leaves a ridge in the middle of the endmills path. It would also be possible to surface the bottom at different angles with a ball mill.
"Seems simple" nothing you do seems simple. Everything you do is complex and fascinating.
Simple things like the collar to butt against the chuck or the centre extension.
Love your work.
This is how I set up my jobs. Big up to you, you are an excellent machinist with a big heart, as always, generous with your skills. That machine is in good hands.
I worked in a machine shop decades ago (lackey, not a machinist), and it used to drive me batshit that I’d have to process (grind/chamfer/cut/drill/tap/paint/whatever) like 500 parts, and I never knew what they were for. The shop owner never knew either. We had specs, and just had to make them, whatever they were. There’s no practical reason I’d need to know anything but the specifications for the part, but when it took a week to finish the parts, I’d go nuts just trying to figure out what the hell they were. I couldn’t handle it.
Great job! The multi camera angles and editing is almost so natural you don't notice. The view is exactly where I would be sticking my head in to take a look. Love your channel.
I really value your videos man!! Keep up the great work! I'm a young machinist just starting my career and the knowledge and experience from people like you keep me motivated to reach your level one day. thank you!
I don't understand everything you said, but man I am glad for people with expertise like you.
Your videos are very interesting, and they give me ideas to help me solve problems at my work. Thanks!
That Mazak Integrex is amazing ..... Best lathe work I've seen....
I love your thought process on parts like this.
Nice video Peter. Love to see the programming of the j-slots. Thanks for sharing.
I may make another video on that thanks.
I'm tired, oh wait new Edge Precision video, not that tired.
very nice compliment - this guy is just the most unassuming great guy - his knowledge - all self taught - is encyclopedic (no one uses that term an more) anyhoooo - awesome and damn clever.
Mazak is an incredible beast, takes a master machinist to bring it to life.
Wow, that's an amazingly versatile machine. Beautifully done and well explained. Thanks
As always, beautiful work and fascinating processes.
excellent work. I have a lot of experience milling features on cylindrical parts in a mill/turn environment, it can be a real headache with tons of tight clearance movement on more than one axis at once - considerable "pucker factor" to be had when inching through the program prove-out process with rapid at crawl and feed turned down to 5%! Takes a real sharp programmer to get this stuff right so kudos to you.
Beautiful machining and video. I admire your work.
Im glad i found this channel !
Very good stuff !
Where has this channel been all my life? Love the work! Instant sub.
Excellent I may in the future have some questions about ClearPath servo motors and drives. I have a few ideas that would require them.
Absolutely. Hit me up any time.
I PM'd you my info.
Oh nasty, bet you had great fun de-burring those slots in the bore. Nice work as always.
Outstanding work, Peter!
Great work Peter your cnc machining is second to no one in my opinion keep the video's coming!!
Always like watching your machining on the Mazak Intregrex
Nice looking part. Impressive machine and machine operation. Cheers.
very nice work i really enjoy watching your videos
Nice job! Beautiful camera work! Thanks, very interesting!)
Supper talented machinist. He is using very complex machine like a pro!
Truly great work!! Thanks for sharing....
Beautiful complicated work. Very nicely done.
Thanks Randy.
Thanks for a very interesting video and great explanation throughout.
Wow...respect! What an amazing job!
Amazing as usual. You are a wizard.
Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing.
I'm buying stock in this Channel! Amazing stuff Peter
Man awesome! Looked like a piece of jewelry when you were done. 👍🏻
awesome work & job!!
you definitely do some awsome machining thanks for the video's
Awesome videos! Thanks for doing these!
So either some bucks-up down-hole parts, or some awfully ornate table legs; neat bit of work either way!
They would make nice table legs.
Excellent work. Keep em coming! Thanks
Work of art! :)
Some serious programming there.... Respect!
7:52 That's one hell of a caliper size. :) Nice looking part :D
Yeah, machining small diameter work on a big machine can be challenging. At work, one of our big 5 axis Mazak does some small single vice jobs, and it's just overkill. Many tools requiring extensions and or extra long stickouts and being over 9 inches long. Chatter issues everywhere. But we don't have the work to maximize the table. So were stuck with this crap. :( We have new smaller machine, but apparently it's harder than it looks to transfer jobs. Still a Mazak even.
Awesome thanks for sharing that is some fine machining , NASA Quality
Excelente amigo .....hermoso trabajo......
Gracies!
Awesome work man!
yes it looks like you would have to use a very small end mill to be able to do that kind of pocketing op. and then go back with the contouring to get the wall shape. cool videos! Do you have any comments about the inverse time feed / post.
I guess I might if I understand what that is. I haven’t maintained my Maintence agreement for about 4-5 years on Esprit. (Costs to much) Is that something new?
Impressive. Great voiceover.
Nice work.
Realy precision!
Excellent performance.
That really is a nice machine
Nice work Peter!! Would you do a video on programming the slots?
I was going to add that in this video. It was getting long. I may make a additional segment to this video.
I would also be very interested in a video on the programing.
I would too Thanks Peter !
Best cnc videos on the net!
@@EdgePrecision plz upoad this video.. i m facing same issue ..i am not getting those sides parallal to each other in j slots. plz let ups teach how to prog this
I really enjoyed watching this video , great job!
I would like to see how did you program those slots .
I am thinking about doing that. I was going to combine it in this video but the video was getting a little long.
awesome video, just subscribed.
If you get a chance try a square E.M. perpendicular to CL with a limited step over on a Wrap pocketing operation. Very nice floor finish.
I run 4 axis mills , I like that machine, i want one of those at home.
You are doing just fine. I can see everything.
Looks like a giant version of the mechanism in a push pen.
That’s basically exactly what it is. Used for a different purpose.
Awesome, I'm glad I found your videos today! Currently at the family shop myself pumping out some oddly shaped servo bodies. Trying to convince the old man to move us past our VMC's into more difficult work.
@ the 15:00 mark your talking about the difference in angle between the centerline and the od of the part caused by programming the slot from the centerline? This is why the smaller tool causes what I would assume would be a slightly taper of the slot? That piece of information put me through a loop as a mill guy, thanks for any clarification.
When you do wrapped milling the tool usually stays on centerline (it doesn’t have to). So if milling a pocket or slot wider than the tool diameter the only way to reach the wall is to rotate the rotary axis(in this case the C axis). In the case of this j-slot the sides of the slot will not be parallel to each other. Now a pin has to run down this t-slot. If the sides taper in at the bottom makes the bottom of the slot smaller. This would interfere with the pins end. Now you can mill this feature with the tool off center but you can’t do it in one pass. You would have to do one side than move up in Z than over to the other side. Than down and mill the other side. Does that makes sense? I hope so. Or is it even more confusing.
Thanks for the reply! Now when your milling the .250 thru slot parallel to the .625 did you have to create a separate work shift to move you Y off center? Is this still considered wrapped milling?
I guess I have stuff like that to look forward to with some Esprit training. Found what is probably the only shop in my state that uses it.
Esprit is a powerful software but it does take a while to learn. There is a guy that makes training cd’s. I have some they are very good. A little boring but good. The one on making or modifying your post is really helpful. I can’t off the top of my head remember his name. If you are interested I can get that for you.
Great thank you for your time
Truly Amazing....
We do these parts at work, they can be fun to program. You can get the bottom of the slots to look nice by surfacing with a small ball nose but it takes forever and like you said, it’s not critical to the function of the part.
Yes I knew the minute I made that remark someone would point that out. I considered rerecording the voice over but decided to just leave it. I generally find the first take of the voice over works the best for some reason. Thanks.
Something I always wonder when I watch your videos is, why not a hydraulic chuck? Why go with the 4-jaw?
It works better for the kind of work I do. The chucking and aligning of the work isn't a large amount of time compared to the cycle time of the work I typically do. Also there are other advantages to a manual 4-jaw chuck. You need fewer soft jaws. The chuck doesn't loose it's clamping force compared to a hydraulic with speed, so the part is held more securely at higher speeds with heavy jaws. Also some of the parts I do have more than one center-line. So they have to be turned off center. Although not impossible in a hydraulic chuck it's a lot easier in a manual 4-jaw chuck. The jaws have more travel range, so I can use jaws with large undercuts. Such as the dovetail jaws I often use. These are just a few reasons.
@@EdgePrecision Interesting. I was under the impression that in terms of clamping force vs rpm, that hydraulic chucks had the advantage. Side question, how difficult is it to change out the chuck?
@@elijahgreenberg2634 It is not to difficult to change a chuck. In my case I also removed the draw tube to get a larger spindle bore of 6.65” in diameter. And yes a hydraulic chucks clamping force reduces with RPM. That is why you should limit the speed when doing facing cuts in constant surface footage. When the tool gets to center if the speed is not controlled the spindle will go to its max RPM. If you have heavy jaws this could totally lose a grip on the part. This is why with hydraulic chucks the facing cut is the most dangerous.
Congrats man!! it is clear you really know machining. i would like if you publish milling machining conditions. what cam software do you use?? thanks for your demos
Thanks. I use Esprit Cam software.
Any idea what the J slots will be used for? Coupling, or holder of some sort?
J-Slots on down hole tools are usually used to activate something or shear a pin. Like a button on a ball point pin. It uses the exact same mechanism.
Amazing! :)
you can see the creation of the man by image of the creator through these machines
I'm curious, have you ever tried Sandvik's CoroMill Plura end Mills for turn milling? They have a flat bottom vs. the typical concave bottom, supposedly eliminating the finish problem you described.
No I have not. I did consider grinding a special flat tipped endmill especially for this job. But they were in such a hurry I just went with standard tooling. I wasn't aware that Sandvik made such a cutter I will check into it thanks.
I've not tried them myself, but I did look into it once. Excellent videos, by the way!
I thought the manually cut/jogged taper was a lot of fun to watch too... All such beautiful work. What would happen if a planned finish turning cut was applied all the way along the shaft; would that mess up all the slots/ chamfering of edges. Would be cool if you could one day do a 'Vid" on hand de-burring techniques versus what can be programmed on such a machine. Thanks so VERY much for these videos. Really important stuff :-) Cheers!
I think a finish cut after the slotting would be problematic. It would probably cause chatter where the slots are. Even the finishing endmill on the long .250 slots chattered very slightly. Not enough to matter but I could hear it. I have thought about a deburring video. Thanks.
EXTRA DIMENSp
Tableau do torno sanches branes
Edge Precision o ' tutorial tc don't torno Sanchez Barnes -
I hope you have an apprentice your sharing your expertise with!!!
Your turning machine so huge...
Cool video, I program rotary dies with Esprit and if you use a wrap pocketing routine and run the tool perpendicular to the center line of the shaft with 30-40% step over the floors come out really sweet. Not sure if it would work with the part you are running but if you have the room and need a good finish it works well. Did you have any issues with the post and the inverse time feed requirements for the J channel op?
Thanks Nate; The issue with these J-slots is the sides (according to the drawing) are parallel to each other. The don’t project to the centerline. If you could use a tool that is exactly the proper width that could work but because a standard endmill has a dish it won’t leave a square surface. It leaves a ridge in the middle. Especially when milling angles. A square ended endmill would do better. Than a ball mill with a small step over to clean up the radius from centerline over. This part it just wasn’t necessary. So I didn’t take the time.
Peter the Great!!!
Oh yeah and really nice work, lol
Peter, what are your thoughts on slotting with an on-size endmill vs an undersize one? Not for this application specifically, but for slots or keyways in general.
Also, do you have a typical process for setup? I have seen you do some aluminum setup parts, notably on the more high dollar value raw materials (although it seems like you do a lot of expensive / exotic materials). Do you do that all the time or do you favor the offsets a bit or just let 'er rip on the more comfortable jobs?
Great work as always!
If I had to hold a close tolerance and finish on the width of the slot I wouldn't do it that way. On using setup parts out of aluminum it depends on the complexity of the part and the cost and availability of the material. Say you had a drop dead delivery date and a complicated part. But the material was very hard to get. Some kind of special or had expensive quality requirements and tests. I would generally run a setup part in those cases. Customer supplied material that's hard or imposable to replace is another reason. Who wants to go the customer and say you scrapped their material. It doesn't look very professional. Sometimes I like extra material of exactly the same as the part to test tools on like form tools burnishing tools and reamers. To make sure they are cutting to size. Things like that.
Nice job and great details. What is this part for?
As is often the case, I don't know.
Gilberto Diaz Castro - ball point pen
Are you thinking to go Bar z summer bash? Nice work and gopro works great in the coolant!!
Thanks. As far as Bar z summer bash. I don't know if I will have time. Its a long way away from here. We will see.
Now I want to 3D print this.
Tony Rios its not that hard. I did one with j slots. Only hard part is when the slot has a point the 3d printer has to have a built structure to start the slot
I worked in a coal mine and we used both sandvik and kennametal bits which tooling do u prefer for mining purposes I personally prefer sandvik there bits lasted longer and were cheaper just a question of quality ?
I'm not really stuck on one brand of tooling. I use many brands Iscar, Guhring, Hanita, US22, Sandvik, Tungaloy, Garr. These are a few of many more. I buy tools depending on what they can do. I will say this Sandvik makes the best anti vibration bars (They call them Silent Tools) of any I have tried. I use a lot of Sandvik tooling in the Mazak because of the Capto 8 taper of the spindle. In the horizontal I use very little to none. I am not that impressed with their milling tooling. Also their inserts are more expensive than other brands.
Edge Precision cool bud thanks keep up the good work !!!!
What is the yellow faced gage you use before the ring thread gage? Also a flat bottom endmill would make slot floor flat (cylindrical ) in short order.
The gauge is so old that the dial has yellowed a bit. The dial says Allen Gauge 102. I don't think they use that model number any more. Go to allengauges.com look at the thread depth gauges. You will see many different variation's of this type of gauge and many others.
AMAZING
first this is not a machine it is a monster second this is not piece work it is an art piece
I want one of those extendable handle ratchets. Is that something you made or can you buy them.?
At 12:49 does it matter that the part moved after the tail-stock was pressed on it or would that just push it to the same position that it was zeroed at before.
I assume your talking about the next parts after this first part. Yes because all the parts were turned the same on the first operation. The shoulder on that side is in the same place so the length will repeat to the same length. This is in fact exactly why I used the spacer. After the part with spacer was pushed up against the chuck jaws I set the part's zero on the end at the tail center.
Lol, You make everything seems easy but it s not at least for me , Thanks for this vid
Thanks! Nacer Zo.
@@EdgePrecision could you pls do some beginners vids on how to set work offsets on this beast machine ?
Awesome!
Belo trabalho. Muito bonito mesmo...
Gracias souzaneto851.
Nice job Peter, I had to watch twice to get all the things going on with those slots. When you use a lathe dog like that do you need to worry about when you stop the spindle? Does the machine have a brake or does it coast down slowly?
Thanks, I probably could have turned the OD without the driving dog. The Tailstock puts a lot of pressure on the part. The driving dog is just for extra security. The spindle motor breaks down the speed fast but it doesn’t overcome the friction on the center.
nice job..haha did you just measure the lenght was within a thousand with a old vernie?
I can see if the parts are the same as each other. That's what I was going for here. The actual tolerance was + - .030 on the length. But for the setup I wouldn't have to worry if the looked the same with the vernier calipers.
Do the parts distort after taking all the material out for the slots.
That is a valid question. These stayed straight because the pattern is symmetrical. If the pattern was just on one side that would certainly have been a issue.
Thanks for reply, I am always amazed at advances that have been made in machining since I starting in engineering (1965).
Can you please make a video of how you modeled this j slot? I can't figure it out something similar. Thanks.
What software are you using?
Edge Precision I'm trying on Inventor. But I think I can download spaceclaim.
Micah Hunter why not Fusion? I haven’t used it a lot but it seems to work good and is easy to use.
Edge Precision I don't believe it can do it. I've asked all around. I saw some video about it, but it wasnt very exact, I think.
Another awesome video. I keep meaning to ask you about your choice of chuck. Is there a special reason you run a manual 4 jaw chuck instead of some sort of hydraulic or is it just you run a lot of odd shape parts so you can run the jaws off centre or is it something else?
Thanks. When I first got this machine my first job required the full spindle bore capacity (6.65" dia.). This required taking off the hydraulic chuck and its draw tube. I mounted and used this 16.25" four jaw chuck as a economical way to solve this issue. After using it I found I liked it better for the type of work I do than the hydraulic chuck.
Another great video, here's to 100k subs this year. Just out of interest, if you need the sides of parallel slots to be parallel to each other, why can't you use a y axis cut rather than a c axis?
Look at the above reply your question is the same as thebigsailor007.
Thanks for the video, love the idea of turning a spacing plug! Do you ever do higbee threads when you machine acme threads? If so, would love to see a video on how to do a higbee thread properly! Keep up the good videos :)
Yes many parts require a blunt start or higbee on the thread. There are two ways to do that on this type of machine. The traditional way is to use a grooving tool in a very short threading cycle. This can be difficult if the higbee is on the first and last thread in a thread relief. The way I prefer to do it is by milling it. This can also be done in two ways with a slotting type of cutter (or just a endmill if its just on the front thread) with the milling spindle parallel to the thread. Or with a endmill with the milling spindle perpendicular to a OD thread. I prefer the milled Blunt start I think it is easer to do and looks better. I is easy to time the start with a C axis fixture offset.
Kristian Thompson Silva, I had no idea there was a proper term for that method of deburring threads! I machined some oilfield parts years ago where the print just said "remove partial thread to half thread width". Edge Precision, even your comments section is a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks for the advice I will have to give milling them a go. I haven't tried the milled style yet but can imagine it will be easier like you say. The only times I have done it has been on small diameter parts with a grooving tool on a straight 2 axis lathe, the only problem I find with this is that I have to slow the surface speed down so much too not remove an entire thread that the surface finish is poor. Would probably be okay with faster rapids on a larger diameter part.
I think you have an issue with that clearance in the B axis. Verification software do you use?
Just the simulation in the cam software. Nothing else.
You say it’s tricky to get the slot walls parallel to each other. Is that in the model or in the CAM processor? Does the model project a straight side slot and CAM just can’t translate it or are the walls radial in the model? Nice work as always.
In their documentation the gave me a Solid model but it was drawn incorrectly. Their drawing had a flat layout of the wrapped pockets that was dimensioned. I always go by the dimensioned drawing before the model. In tis case I had to regenerate a model of the wrapped layout and program from there. Some CAM software's let you do the traditional wrapped layout and work from a solid model (Esprit does). In this case I used a combination of both.
Edge Precision I’ve never used anything other than 3 axis MasterCAM so I’m not familiar with any live spindle work. It would be fun to try it though. Thanks for the reply.
Nice equipment who’s the maker?
The machine in this video is a Mazak Integrex e650H.
Maybe once you move to Mexico, you can leave me the keys for that mill ;)
It seems possible to try using a rastr strategy with the basic direction around the axis of rotation and 1 mm step. Then the surface would be smoother.
I knew when I said that I would get comments. I didn't want to rerecord the voice over so I left the comment. Its not imposable. You could go in with a small ball mill and get it smooth but it would take time. For the function of the part it wasn't necessary or even required by the customer.
I apologize - did not hear or could not understand, English - not my native language. However, I do not completely agree with the "ball mill", especially "small", because the smaller the diameter of the ball mill, the higher the height of the scallop, although I understand that a large diameter mill will leave a lot of material near the walls. In any case, based on personal experience, I can say that a simple end milling, will cope much better and the surface cleanliness after using the end mill will be higher than after the ball mill.
A .250 Ball Mill With a small step over(.005" or so) would clear out the OD radius. Or a Flat tipped endmill might work also. The problem with wrapped geometry cutting is you are part of the time cutting with the end face of the tool. With a traditional grind of the end of a endmill you have 1-1.5 degrees of cup in the end. Witch is fine for normal planer cutting. But going around a OD it leaves a ridge in the middle of the endmills path. It would also be possible to surface the bottom at different angles with a ball mill.