Hands down easily the best video I've seen on soldering copper pipes. Very clear cut and to the point, no babbling, just right to the point and clear instruction. Thank You!
Always thought I would be melting washers or stuff inside valve. About to do small 1/2 gate valve shut offs for shower. Thanks for video, easy to follow. Good work.
Good video, but you used enough flux/paste to solder a dozen valves. Only a very thin film is required to allow the solder to migrate into the socket of the fitting. Also worth noting, Apply ONLY enough heat to the valve to melt the solder. Over heating the valve can cause plastic or teflon seats in the valve to melt or deform. Ball valves are usually quite tolerant of a little excess heat but if soldering a valve with rubber washers or seats inside the valve should be disassembled and the washers removed before soldering, then reassemble when it has cooled.
Hey Phil I know this video is 3 years old but I gotta tell you this is a great tutorial. Easy to understand and you covered everything. I have water valve under my bathroom sink and its rusted beyond getting the nut off so I cut the pipe and now I'm going to use this method. It seems to be more efficient than compression fitting and heating it up to take it back off if you ever need to seems a lot easier than the nightmare of getting an old valve and compression fitting off. Thanks for posting!
Removing a compression fitting is easy. My reaction to this video is actually - well, why WOULDN'T you use a compression valve in this scenario? I would.
Thank you for this video. I have a toilet valve that won’t shut off the supply and I need to replace it. Going to try myself as I don’t have the money for a plumber.
Thank you for soldering on a quarter turn instead of one of those unreliable multi-turn valves. My whole house has sweated-on multi-turn valves and they all have to be changed because none of them actually shut the water off. Why the builder put on soldered valves that fail after a few years of non-use is beyond comprehension. They are a pain to remove if you have no soldering skills.
YES!!!! I'm DONE with those other crappy valves!!! only 1/4 turns for me! BTW..... you have soldering skills now after watching my video. just practice on some pieces. If I can do it, anyone can.
They don't work because the plumber was too lazy to take them apart before soldering. Or too stupid. What do you suppose happens when you heat the rubber and plastic parts inside the valve to over 600 degrees farenheit? You likely ruined the valve before you ever put it into service.
You can add a quarter turn piggy-back if you have the room. Good choice when the valve is hidden in the wall. www.familyhandyman.com/project/fix-a-leaky-shutoff-with-a-supply-valve-piggyback/
Not bad, to the point and brief. However I have one tech tip to offer. In the real world when doing this kind of job, you'll want to remove the washer from inside the angle stop (water supply valve) or else you'll be cursing yourself later when trying to shut off the water supply off to the fixture.
I always, always would sweat on an adaptor so that you can use a threaded valve and never have to sweat again when the valve needs to be replace. Always.
I have done this exact thing on my home's stops. Stops inside cabinets are a pain to get to if you need to change them. Presumably, the 1/4 turns won't get leaky and corroded like the old globe valves, but just in case, I can always just replace them without sweating again in the future. Most of mine (except the toilets) are inside cabinets, so I don't mind how they look. Even so, I don't find the FIP adapter to be obtrusive.
Thanks for the explanation and tool/parts needed. I want to ask a question just prior to the sweating, wouldn't it be better to remove the valve stem and rubber washer before you apply the torch? I saw a video where the mechanic said to remove that so that there isn't any damage to the rubber parts and they stay intact. Unless the rubber is designed to withstand heat.
it's all preference. I've had better luck with no leaks on sweating vs compression...... but that's just me. Also.....sweat valves are easier to take off imo
Do you need to be concerned about the wood stud inside the wall catching on fire from the heat conducted from the heating of the copper pipe? I ask this because the pipe is most certainly strapped to the wood stud. My copper stub sticks out of the wall only about one inch. Thanks
I will always go with a sweat valve"...........however, that’s only because I’m good at putting them on and I trust the seal. However, it’s completely a personal choice. I think the easiest is a compression, but the pipe really needs to be super clean and smooth for the good seal and compression of the ring.
I have one of these valves that will not open up. The gate seems stuck in the closed position, and the handle turns. The valve got stuck while I was in the process of swapping a filter out on the line. I've heard that these valves prone to breaking. Is there any reason to not go with a more reliable ball type valve?
I have struggled with finding the perfect valve for years. Im convinced that there isn't one. soooooo, instead, I just learned how to change them out as needed.
so. .... im trying to remove a 3/4 base board heater and will reinstall at a later date. i wanted to just connect the in/out lines so the hot water just loops back out. i purchased a couple of 3/4 90 degree elbows but they seem to be the EXACT diameter as the pipes so there is no way in h*ll itll fit. am i missing something? is there another fitting im supposed to use?
Hard to say without seeing the pieces. What I would do, is go to the plumbing store with pics and the pieces you have and talk to the salesman. You may simply have the wrong size piece. Sure wish Yt would allow pictures in the comments.
How would this be done if you want to put a chrome plated sleeve over the copper pipe to hide the copper? I like to do this so that everything appears to look like polished chrome. I don't like the look of copper mixed with polished chrome. Would I have to stick with a valve that tightens onto a copper pipe with a nut I tighten with a wrench?
Great job, I just don't like the transition from the silver color to copper back to the silver. I'm pretty sure they make sleeves with a 3/8 OD to solder over the copper.
Not sure about sleeves. I was thinking..... if white would look better to you than copper, you could cut a small thin schedule PVC pipe piece, cut down one side, and see if it snaps on over the copper. just a thought. OR...... You could tape off the silver parts, spray paint primer and then chrome paint over the copper. Wonder if there's a chrome paint they uses a brush.
@@PhilCrockett do the quarter turn valves not just have a plastic membrane inside them? I thoughy only the screw-close type had a rubber washer inside? Do you have any experience taking these apart? Is there an easy way?
Good overall general info. I would have cut the water flow line a longer (1/2 to 3/4") for future work if necessary.Also there was way too much flux, but again good overall general info.
I didn't forget. HOWEVER, i must have forgotten to show that. it's alright though. even with burrs, this can be done. Thanks for the positive criticism, Evil. hmmmmm........E..V..I..L.. oh wait!
uuuhhhhhh.......nope. if you watch the video,....... this worked out perfect. Troll someone else. However, thanks for looking up this How To video. Hope you learned something that will help you out, Jesse.
You should always ream the inside of a copper pipe because The burs will create turbulence like a 90 degree fitting does and it will put pinholes in the copper pipe later down the run. Too much flux will eat pin holes inside the copper pipe and create future leaks it will also eat the rubber seals inside the stop remember flux is a acid.I am commercial plumber I guarantee that as facts brother other wise great RUclips video and keep up the good work.
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Hands down easily the best video I've seen on soldering copper pipes. Very clear cut and to the point, no babbling, just right to the point and clear instruction.
Thank You!
Thanks, Steve! your comment made my day!
Always thought I would be melting washers or stuff inside valve. About to do small 1/2 gate valve shut offs for shower. Thanks for video, easy to follow. Good work.
Good video, but you used enough flux/paste to solder a dozen valves. Only a very thin film is required to allow the solder to migrate into the socket of the fitting. Also worth noting, Apply ONLY enough heat to the valve to melt the solder. Over heating the valve can cause plastic or teflon seats in the valve to melt or deform. Ball valves are usually quite tolerant of a little excess heat but if soldering a valve with rubber washers or seats inside the valve should be disassembled and the washers removed before soldering, then reassemble when it has cooled.
Thanks for the critique and tips, Chris.
Hey Phil I know this video is 3 years old but I gotta tell you this is a great tutorial. Easy to understand and you covered everything. I have water valve under my bathroom sink and its rusted beyond getting the nut off so I cut the pipe and now I'm going to use this method. It seems to be more efficient than compression fitting and heating it up to take it back off if you ever need to seems a lot easier than the nightmare of getting an old valve and compression fitting off. Thanks for posting!
Please let me know how it went, Richard!
Removing a compression fitting is easy. My reaction to this video is actually - well, why WOULDN'T you use a compression valve in this scenario? I would.
Nice job on the procedure and narration
Thanks!
Never done this before and I followed your tutorial and I was able to do my first valve repair 👨🔧 thanks for the video 🍻
Nice work! Thanks for taking the time to comment. hope you like my other videos as well.
Very clear and concise instructions! Thank you so much for the great video.
Glad it was helpful, Brian!
Thank you for this video. I have a toilet valve that won’t shut off the supply and I need to replace it. Going to try myself as I don’t have the money for a plumber.
Let me know how it went, Troy!
Thank you for soldering on a quarter turn instead of one of those unreliable multi-turn valves. My whole house has sweated-on multi-turn valves and they all have to be changed because none of them actually shut the water off. Why the builder put on soldered valves that fail after a few years of non-use is beyond comprehension. They are a pain to remove if you have no soldering skills.
YES!!!! I'm DONE with those other crappy valves!!! only 1/4 turns for me!
BTW..... you have soldering skills now after watching my video. just practice on some pieces. If I can do it, anyone can.
Phil Crockett do you just heat it up and it comes off?
They don't work because the plumber was too lazy to take them apart before soldering. Or too stupid. What do you suppose happens when you heat the rubber and plastic parts inside the valve to over 600 degrees farenheit? You likely ruined the valve before you ever put it into service.
You can add a quarter turn piggy-back if you have the room. Good choice when the valve is hidden in the wall. www.familyhandyman.com/project/fix-a-leaky-shutoff-with-a-supply-valve-piggyback/
Not bad, to the point and brief. However I have one tech tip to offer. In the real world when doing this kind of job, you'll want to remove the washer from inside the angle stop (water supply valve) or else you'll be cursing yourself later when trying to shut off the water supply off to the fixture.
That's a great tip, Tyler! THANKS!
Always Deburrrrrr!!!!! But rest is awesome and right on point
Great vid Phil.
Thanks!
Great video ! simple and direct
Glad you liked it, Rick! Hope my channel will continue to help you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Good video! thank you for getting to the point and not jumping around camera trying to look goofy or with 5 mins intro
I appreciate that!
The channel i was looking 👀 4 ! SUBBED!
THANKS FOR SUBBING!!!!!!!!!!!
I always, always would sweat on an adaptor so that you can use a threaded valve and never have to sweat again when the valve needs to be replace. Always.
That would be another great video. I like your method! I also have a video that shows how to put a compression valve on.
Yeah. But that would look horrible. A big ole female sweat to make pipe thread fitting. No good.
Sweat or compression are the cleanest ways.
I have done this exact thing on my home's stops. Stops inside cabinets are a pain to get to if you need to change them. Presumably, the 1/4 turns won't get leaky and corroded like the old globe valves, but just in case, I can always just replace them without sweating again in the future. Most of mine (except the toilets) are inside cabinets, so I don't mind how they look. Even so, I don't find the FIP adapter to be obtrusive.
Great video!
Thanks for the visit
2:50 That is WAY to much flux. A thin even coat is all that is needed
Ya..... it is, but it works GREAT..................which is the whole point.
I really enjoy these man. Always useful information.
THANKS! I really enjoyed watching "Dogbath". What a great dog! looks like a Lab. I've duck hunted with a lot of labs over the years. My favorite dog!
I would have liked to see you deburr that copper pipe first. It probably doesn't matter at the valve union but it's good practice.
ya.... it's good practice for sure. Thanks for the tip
Thanks for the explanation and tool/parts needed. I want to ask a question just prior to the sweating, wouldn't it be better to remove the valve stem and rubber washer before you apply the torch? I saw a video where the mechanic said to remove that so that there isn't any damage to the rubber parts and they stay intact. Unless the rubber is designed to withstand heat.
I never had any problems with that, but I'm sure it's good advice nonetheless.
I never understood the purpose of sweating a valve with compression valves available.
it's all preference. I've had better luck with no leaks on sweating vs compression...... but that's just me. Also.....sweat valves are easier to take off imo
Excellent video. I just sweat a new spigot on my house after watching this. Thanks!
You're welcome! I'm thrilled that my video helped you out. Thanks for the great comment!
Do you need to be concerned about the wood stud inside the wall catching on fire from the heat conducted from the heating of the copper pipe? I ask this because the pipe is most certainly strapped to the wood stud. My copper stub sticks out of the wall only about one inch. Thanks
Never had that problem. You would have to put the flame directly on the wood to light it. Just keep the flame long enough to melt the solder
Excellent video, thanks!
You're welcome! Glad you liked it!
What would I need to do for the opposite; removing the sweat valve?
just heat it up until it slides off, then sand the residual down to fresh copper.
Should clean the inside of the new valve before adding flux
ok
I have a sweat valve that is leaking. Should I replace it with a sweat valve or a
compression valve? Which is easier?
I will always go with a sweat valve"...........however, that’s only because I’m good at putting them on and I trust the seal. However, it’s completely a personal choice. I think the easiest is a compression, but the pipe really needs to be super clean and smooth for the good seal and compression of the ring.
Trying to replace existing 5” sleeve valve, how do I remove from the copper feeder pipe? Do I need to sweat the bottom of sleeve to loosen?
Yes, you can heat the sleeve to loosen.
Great video. No bs and to the point
That's what my goal is on all my videos. Thanks, Mario! Glad my video helped you out!
I have one of these valves that will not open up. The gate seems stuck in the closed position, and the handle turns. The valve got stuck while I was in the process of swapping a filter out on the line. I've heard that these valves prone to breaking.
Is there any reason to not go with a more reliable ball type valve?
I have struggled with finding the perfect valve for years. Im convinced that there isn't one. soooooo, instead, I just learned how to change them out as needed.
so. .... im trying to remove a 3/4 base board heater and will reinstall at a later date. i wanted to just connect the in/out lines so the hot water just loops back out. i purchased a couple of 3/4 90 degree elbows but they seem to be the EXACT diameter as the pipes so there is no way in h*ll itll fit. am i missing something? is there another fitting im supposed to use?
Hard to say without seeing the pieces. What I would do, is go to the plumbing store with pics and the pieces you have and talk to the salesman. You may simply have the wrong size piece. Sure wish Yt would allow pictures in the comments.
How would this be done if you want to put a chrome plated sleeve over the copper pipe to hide the copper? I like to do this so that everything appears to look like polished chrome. I don't like the look of copper mixed with polished chrome. Would I have to stick with a valve that tightens onto a copper pipe with a nut I tighten with a wrench?
probably use a compression valve instead of sweat.
@@PhilCrockett Thanks, will do!
They sell these valves with chrome plated brass extension tube that fit over the copper pipe and then soldered. Sold at Amazon or Home Depot or Lowes.
Don't overdo the flux. It is corrosive and any excess that remains can damage the pipe.
great tip, Mark!
If I get a pin hole leak in my solder should I flux and reheat or start all over?
I would start all over
Good job
Thanks!
Great job, I just don't like the transition from the silver color to copper back to the silver. I'm pretty sure they make sleeves with a 3/8 OD to solder over the copper.
Not sure about sleeves. I was thinking..... if white would look better to you than copper, you could cut a small thin schedule PVC pipe piece, cut down one side, and see if it snaps on over the copper. just a thought. OR...... You could tape off the silver parts, spray paint primer and then chrome paint over the copper. Wonder if there's a chrome paint they uses a brush.
@@PhilCrockett or just do it right
@@sal.pizzurro
Show me your video on how to "do it right".
This is definately not for the novice homeowner 😂 Preparation is key
It's pretty easy to learn on scrap. There's also a kit that has everything in it.
What if I want nothing to do with soldering? Why other options do I have?
right here: ruclips.net/video/yW8LNinHiHw/видео.html
i assume this video is saying a typicaly soldered vale means a sweat valve
Yes. AKA: sweat valve
Don't you need to remove the rubber gaskets from inside the valve so that they don't melt down while you are applying heat?
You can. I always unscrew it as far out as possible. I don't keep the heat on it longer than I need to. but..... sure..... remove it if convenient.
@@PhilCrockett do the quarter turn valves not just have a plastic membrane inside them? I thoughy only the screw-close type had a rubber washer inside?
Do you have any experience taking these apart? Is there an easy way?
Good overall general info. I would have cut the water flow line a longer (1/2 to 3/4") for future work if necessary.Also there was way too much flux, but again good overall general info.
Thanks for the criticism sandwich. It was delicious!
Quarter turn ball valve preferred, but great soldering tutorial.
Yep. Agree.
3:33 it is a 1/4 turn
Should always clean the inside of the valve and ream the inside of the copper pipe.
yes
How do attach one that is compression
try this link: ruclips.net/video/yW8LNinHiHw/видео.html
You didn't wire brush the inside of the valve prior to installing, you should have
That definitely won't hurt. Thanks for the tip.
Don't forget to deburr the pipe
I didn't forget. HOWEVER, i must have forgotten to show that. it's alright though. even with burrs, this can be done. Thanks for the positive criticism, Evil. hmmmmm........E..V..I..L.. oh wait!
You did forgot to sand the inside of valve connection
I didn't sand it, I used a wire brush tip.
You probably melt the o ring
nope.
You forgot to debur the pipe
uuuhhhhhh.......nope. if you watch the video,....... this worked out perfect. Troll someone else. However, thanks for looking up this How To video. Hope you learned something that will help you out, Jesse.
haha my fixtures starts bubbling and caught on fire out of the exit valve, then the nobs were junk after. guess im going shark bite
Some folks do better with other methods. Shark bites are good products too. Thanks for watching and commenting.
9
10
@2:55 future me
uhhhh.....ok.....
Who needs a reamer? lol.
That sounds aweful....... NOT ME! I want nothing to do with no "reamer"!
Or cleaning/sanding/wire brusing the valve before soldering
You should always ream the inside of a copper pipe because The burs will create turbulence like a 90 degree fitting does and it will put pinholes in the copper pipe later down the run. Too much flux will eat pin holes inside the copper pipe and create future leaks it will also eat the rubber seals inside the stop remember flux is a acid.I am commercial plumber I guarantee that as facts brother other wise great RUclips video and keep up the good work.
Too much flux
nah. worked perfectly, and is still working great! Good try with tho. gotta love you trolls!