2010-2015 Kia Optima Rear Brake & ROTOR Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 янв 2025
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on replacing Rear Brakes/Rotors on a 2010-2015 3rd Gen. Kia Optima. Step-by-step how-to on removing rear caliper bracket for rotor access included in video. Torque Specs included.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech/Mechanic, just a long time wrencher.
Car in video is a 2012 Kia Optima 2.4L.
Music: www.bensound.com
Thanks for sharing. I got a 2013 Optima didn't think that the rear was that difficult for that one bolt. I worked on cars for 13 years and never seen anything that bad .
John Band yea man! Kia really went out of their way with this one to throw everyone off lol
Did the rear brakes about a month ago. Drivers side everything went with no problems. The passenger side was a nightmare the shipping screws that hold the caliper took about 15 minutes to get out, heated them until thet were red, and used my impact driver. The bolts for the shock and lower control would not come out. Did get both bolts out, the worst part was trying to get the caliper piston back in. The hardware for the shock and control I put anti seize on for the next time. Just wanted to share my adventure with you. Thanks for sharing.
Im a mobile mechanic and just came across this on a 2012. I put up a video of how annoying this process was. A fellow mechanic who did a 2014 argued that I must be bad at my craft if I had such a difficult time because he did it in 5 minutes and didn’t have to pull the lower shock bolt 🙄. He’s been a tech for 7 years. I was happy to read you’ve been one for 13 and still had problems. Just reminds me some people are douchebags.
@@GirlsNDragons exactly, I now work on sub way train cars
And the hardware is just so cheap i could not use a torque wrench with the fear of snapping off the head of the bolt
I'd like to thank you for making this video it really helped me out. The 2 caliper bracket bolts broke off and they were the first ones I touched. I ended buying a 3/8" Milwaukee impact on my way to grab the bolt. Best tool I've bought to date. 1 side took hours and the other 45 minutes.
Glad it helped! And definitely a great pickup on the impact. appreciate the comment!
I know this is 4 yrs old, but I really liked the laid-back presentation and attention to detail you put into it. Very well done video and extremely helpful.
Thank you.
Thank you! I truly appreciate the comment. This is far from my best work so i appreciate it lol
My God, thank you for this! I did the front brakes and when I took the wheel off for the back I was like NOPE. You saved me trip to the shop!
Awesome man! Glad it helped!!!
Great video! I just finished both sides in about 4 hours, and it went without a hitch. For those philips head screws, I sprayed them with Free All and they came right out with a hand driver. Just make sure you are using a #3 philips (that's the big one that most people have never used). A #2 will likely strip it.
Appreciate the comment. Glad you got it done with minimal effort. Removing rotor screws doesn't always go that smoothly lol.
Thank you! Your tips on how to remove that screw holding the brake disc saved me a lot of pain!
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment!!
Excellent video! I’m about to replace the brakes on my 2015 Optima. I had no idea the rear brakes were so involved. Thank you for preparing me in advance. You just saved me a lot of time (and aggravation)!
Good luck! Thanks for the comment 🙏
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Those two bolts are a huge pain in the butt to get off
Thank you for the video and the detailed steps. I was really intimated about taking this stuff a lose as I was anticipating having to take more of this stuff apart. I was so bothered by it that I had taken to the shop to ask them to look and they told me nothing was wrong. But something is and now I know I can just resolve the issue myself thanks to this video
Good luck with the job! I appreciate the comment!!
The instructions were perfect. The job was relatively easy once I got the right tools and the step by step instructions in this video. I would never have guessed that one of caliper bracket bolts was hidden.
Thank you for the comment! I'm glad it helped!
My thoughts exactly great vid my man
Thanks for the video! I was literally attempting to replace the rear rotors on my 2006 Kia Optima last night and was perplexed that the caliper bracket bolt was squeezed behind suspension components (thanks Kia). Tried to get in there with a wrench and hammer the bolt loose but was unsuccessful. Ended up only changing the brake pads and hardware. Was a bit disappointed I couldn't get the full job done, but I feel better now after watching this and seeing how the job is unnecessarily difficult lol
Lol I'm glad it helped man!
I have a 2016 ex and this has by far been the best video i have used to mirror, i hated to have to drop the suspension but kia wanted to be awesome….
They sure did try to get extra fancy. But I appreciate it!!
excellent step by step video and every detail helped me save money, thank you for taking the time to record and work at the same time
Awesome glad it helped!
I used one of those z shaped is it goose? Spanner’s, it’s little by little but gets in there and takes bolt out.
This is the only video I’ve seen where the emergency brake is not adjusted with a screw driver through the whole?
Thank god I found this video. I've been wanting to do a full rear brake job on my 2012 and my rear shock are starting to creak so looks like I'll be doing both jobs at the same time.
🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for the vid and sharing. Didn't look anything up for the fronts, screws were a surprise. Now I won't be as mad when I have to do the rear.
Good luck with the rear 🙏
Very Helpful! Doing one of my customers cars and wasn't sure if taking the shock off would be the easiest way. Again thank you!
Urban Stunts awesome man, glad it helped! 👊
I would also mention that you need to remove the brake reservoir cap when compressing the brake piston back.
We honestly don't do that at the dealership xD But it's definitely best practice.
Woooow lol
TeamGhostID lol people would be very surprised at some dealer/shop practices lol.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Very xD
@@TheOriginalBeeCee They changed me 600 to repair my rotor and new breaks last year. I need to replace my rotor and break fluid now it will cost me 500 for new rotors and tools
Great video thanks, I have 159,000 on my Optima. Brakes were replaced once and they said they turned the rotors. I was not there to verify they did take them off and turn them. I doubt it, so this time I want to take the rotors off and replace them when I replace the Pads. I was hoping it would be easier than what you showed needed to be done. I looked at them before and thought no manufacture would make it that difficult just to remove the rotor.. crazy..
Appreciate it! They just want you to come back to the dealer to get it done! That was the mentality behind the design
Thanks for the video I did those last night and if you hit that bolt hard enough there's no need to take the shock bolt out.
👍
Well made video. Thank you for saving me from getting into looking at a handbrake issue for a neighbour on my driveway with minimal tools on a Saturday morning. I already know something's not right in the drums😅
Hahaha thanks for the comment 🙏
Thank you so much for producing this video. It's well done and very clear.
Appreciate the comment! Thank you!
I just did my 2012 EX rears and I was able to get away without dropping the shock. I just push it past it, scraped the shock a little. And for the arm I just put the bolt in backwards to put it back in and it worked great. Good tip is to also drop the arm down not up or you have to really pull on the rotor to get it back into place!
Ive often wondered why rubber bushings aren't replaced while accessable. Any car over 5 years , rubber starts failing, cracking, etc. I have a 2013 KIA replaced the front struts , pads and rotors. This car is 8 years old and rubber is clearly starting to deteriorate. Is there a service that replaces just suspension bushings.?
Thanks :) , now i know why previous owner just doesnt change/maintenance the rear parking break !! now it's clear.
Damn, I was gonna try this myself until I found out the extra work with the strut that is required. My luck, I’d have it apart unable to reassemble and walking to work. Thanks for the video.
A lot people mentioned getting it done with a “spanner” wrench or something similar. You might be able to do that, this is the “by the book” method.
Thanks for this tutorial, I have a Kia Cerato Forte 2010 model, that carries a rear drum brake assembly. I want to change that system out and install a rotor disc brake assembly. What do I have to get to do the conversion. The reason I ask and want to do the conversion, where I'm from the drum is obsolete.
I’m not overly familiar with Kia’s options/setups, but you would need to pull the parts from the same model car if they came equipped with that option.
You would need the knuckles/hubs, calipers/brackets, pads & rotors, e-brake setup/cable & hardware.
Thanks for the amazing video. Just have a question what tools you recommend
This may be overlooked but make sure ur parking brake isn’t on other wise it’ll be a lot harder. I hope this helps someone
Most definitely…parking brake should never be engaged when servicing rear brakes.
Just a tip that I’ve learned: Take a longer bolt the same size thread as the small philips rotor screws and screw it into their holes and it will push the stuck rotor off in a snap. I learned this the hard way after pounding and a torch didn’t work....
Pro tip invest in an impact screwdriver I’ve never had trouble getting these bad boys out
That's brilliant. I must say that I have read that before, but forgot all about it. I used a large puller this time.
Not sure how those longer screws would work in jacking the rotor off when the holes are threaded in the hub and not the rotor. You would need threaded holes in the rotor in order for those screws to act as jacks.
Great job on a not so easy brake change. Anti seize on the blots thou vs lets say med thread locker? The other thing I will be doing on mine is take a wire brush / dremel with a wire brush attachment and clean the rust out on the hub and put anti seize on the hub.
Great video bro!! If anyone has a 2016 Optima YOU WILL NOT have this issue. The bolts that are holding the brake assembly to the hub is actually 14mm on this particular year. The rod and strut being in the way was fixed on 2016 models.
Thanks man! Good info!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Bro I watched your video first and was prepared to do it even though I was apprehensive lolol. I jacked the car up and took the tire off and my mouth dropped open 🤣 no lie.
@@Julyer87 haha i hear that!
What to do if the nut for the arm is on the inside by the shock???
Before I jump into this. Is there a difference 2012 SX 2.0 Driver side is squealing bad the dealer said they replaced the brakes when I bought it. Its so bad and loud. But you should see how rusty the wheel looks after it rains. My question is about the ebrake too if its on the passenger or both sides as I am doing just driver rear? And is the removal of shock both sides for bracket removal? Thx in advance. I also asked because when I was about to order the brake kit it asked if I had electronic ebrake or manual.
The ebrake is on both sides. And the removal of everything is exactly the same on both sides. So from side to side, everything should fall in line exactly the same.
Is there enough space to put a ratcheting wrench or open end on that lower bolt that way as you loosen it you can pull the rotor and bracket forward rather than backing the bolt out toward the lateral arm?
Naaaa man if it was that easy I would have just done it that way lol. But a couple others mentioned using a spanner wrench to do it..so whatever works. I did it by the book to include all the torque specs and everything. But a ratcheting wrench isnt fitting in there.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I don’t think it would work now that I think about it there’s a backing plate…man engineers hate us lol
@@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair definitelyy do lol
What was the removal direction? Clockwise or Counterclockwise? I’m having a hard time with the Caliper bolt - what direction? Thx!
Visualize yourself in front of the bolt. Lefty loosy.
Such a genius idea here kia🙄 I'm a chrysler mechanic so we don't do too many of these but I love how engineers make it so difficult for the day to day person to work on their own vehicles.
Definitely man. Like a contest between them on who can engineer the worst designs lol
**TIP**
STOP REMOVING THE SHOCK ABSORBER!
Just jack it up from the bottom. Camber tilts the shock and you have just enough room to remove the big bolt from the "alignment arm" (not sure the name of that arm that has the 19mm bolt that blocks the other caliper bracket bolt)
What do you mean jack it up from the bottom
@raymondbravo1565 when the car is on a jackstand the shock absorber is fully extended.
Use a jack to gently jack the car up from the bottom and you will see a way to remove that bolt. Meaning move the wheel up
Use a tapered punch or tapered pin bar to realign the braces rather than a screwdriver. Much much easier.
Remove the arm completely. It attaches with two bolts. Then attach the arm near the rotor first. It will slide right in. Then, use your 2nd jack to raise the assembly. This will allow the 2nd bolt of the arm to screw in easily. It is toward the center of the car. No headaches.
The method I outlined in the video was really no headache for me personally, but hey...whatever works!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I saw it work in the video. But you kept making remarks several times on how you have to still work it and adjust with a screw driver...etc...to get it right. . I wanted to help so you don't have to do that at all.
@@jazzinohio no doubt, definitely 👍 im all for whatever works lol
Thank you for the video got the job done I had to do all 4 rotors luckily I didn’t have to mess with the shock I appreciate the video
👍👍👍👍
How did the parking brake drum pads look?
They looked fine, i feel like most should for the most part honestly
How did you compress the piston ? Did you take cap of fluid reservoir first ?
You could. But the FSM and most manuals would suggest siphoning a bit of fluid from the reservoir to avoid spilling over when retracting the caliper piston. You could also get in the car and pump the brakes after each corner to get the fluid moving and back at the corner to avoid spilling over, which is typically all i do anymore.
Hello, BeeCee Where did you purchase the Rear brake & rotor?
Purchased from www.rockauto.com
Does it really make a difference if you put the bolt the other way on the sway bar?
No the bolt orientation doesn’t really matter, but personally I prefer to re-install things how they were originally and were intended.
Whats the name of the song at 1:36
I just did the front brakes and calipers when i got to tgose screws i just drilled them out with a drill bit there not needed to put back in on kias there for the rotor to stay on at the factory but i also used an impact tool and broke it
That’s exactly what they’re for. And no, you don’t have to put them back on. But I like to put them back on any vehicle thats equipped with them to keep it OE as possible....and 99% of the time I don’t damage or strip them when taking them out, so I am able too...like I was able to on this car.
Thanks man.
Though my flush screws broke. This was helpful.
Ahh that sucks. Glad it was helpful though!
Hey man great video. Quick question. If I just want to replace the pads, then once I remove the caliper, I can just remove them from the rotor and place the new ones and I’m done right? No need to remove the bracket? Unless they’re stuck on there of course
Yup. Once caliper is off, you can swap out pads and throw the caliper back on! No need for anything else.
@@TheOriginalBeeCeesweet! Thank you my man!
🙏
The bolts on mine had been installed with the nut on the inside by the shock.
Can't get the inside rear pad to line up and go in. Any suggestions?
I would make sure the hardware is perfect and not hanging you up. Maybe try getting the rear one in first as well, then install the front one.
Is this the same way to replace a stud?
Yup!
Why did you change the rotors in the back? My rotors in the front are warped so I need to change those but I wasn't thinking about the rotorsin the back, just wondering why the backs would need to be changed.
As for this car, they weren’t in the best shape. And personally, whether its my own vehicle or a job (what this was) I do my best to leave no fail points, and typically when I do brakes for customers they let them get to a point where I wouldn’t want to re-use the rotors anyway. But as for some reasons they would need to be changed, rear hub bearing failure probably would be the biggest culprit to cause rotor failure. Also, some people let the rear pads get to virtually metal on metal which of course by that time, it would be time for new rotors.
I know this is about a year old video. but why can'tyou put the lower bolt on the other way during reassembly so next time you won'thave to move shock
I mean, you can i guess. Personally, i like reassembling things as they were intended, and putting it back together as it came apart. When I do a job my goal is to do my best to make it look like someone was never in there.
Is a 2016 Kia rotor uninstalled the same way?
on other cars ive worked on, you had to remove the cover for the master cylinder before compressing the piston. Do you not have to do that with a Optima?? Thanks for the great video
You can do that. I would suggest, and a lot of manuals & FSM’s suggest siphoning some fluid out of the reservoir prior.
Added. Note on them lil screw. I got alil 5 dollar impact screwdriver from harbor freight. One whack and they were loose
They do work a lot of the time. But they also don’t sometimes.....but probably moreso depends on where you’re located, like in a rust prone area like me in the Northeast. I’ve had to torch them out for people who’ve stripped the screw heads with them, cause they were rust-welded in. From my experiences its really prominent in Honda’s, they’re always rusted solid.
Should an alignment be done after this specific job or should it be good if done the way u did it ?
Not sure if there’s anything special about this one, haven’t watched it all yet. But I never do alignments after I replace brake pads/rotors
@Danny Facio anytime a suspension component is removed, it is recommended and ideal to get an alignment. Honestly, the effects of this job if any are likely minimal because the two suspension bolts being removed aren’t adjustable or points used for an alignment adjustment, although the other end of the arm (bolt mounting arm to rear sub frame) is where alignment adjustments are made. So is it ideal? Yes. Can you get away without doing it? Yes lol.
@@ThatYoungThug LOL no not an alignment after the brakes themselves, on the rear of this vehicle if your gonna change the rotors as well , on the mounting caliper bracket the top bolt is obstructed by a suspension upper arm , that needs to be removed, to be able to access the fastener , that's why i inquired about a potential alignment.
Great video and instructions my man. But I would have reversed the bolt for the upper arm anyway. By putting it back on the way it originally was, you just made it harder for the next person that wants to do this same job.
Reversing it would have saved your fellow mechanic time & hassle, and saved the customer money because it would have taken a lot less time to remove the brake caliper bracket if the strut wouldn’t have to be moved out of the way.
Not looking out for fellow mechanics and the customer. Thumbs down for that. And Kia sucks for doing things this way!
But I gave your video a thumbs up because it was informative, will definitely save Kia optima owners money, and you included torque specs.
I definitely reversed that bolt in my own car and I’m very glad I did. Just bought new rotors and pads because the ones I just slapped on 2 years ago are warped due to cheap brand. Now I got performance upgraded rotors and pads and will spend A LOT less time doing this job. 😊
Can you please make a video about park brake linings installation and adjustment ?
Zamokwakhe Nkomo hey whats up man. This a actually isn’t my car. Its a neighbor of mine and I do all the maintenance on it. So if I ever do the rear brakes again or he needs to parking brake addressed, I’ll definitely do a video. I’m actually going to be doing spark plugs on it asap.
Should the rear rotors on a gen 3 optima freely spin?
Rear rotors really on any vehicle should spin freely as long as the e-brake is not engaged.
Thanks so much for this video. Can you confirm all the bolt sizes used? I heard 12,14 and 19.
No problem I appreciate the comment. But it's been a while, I don't remember each specific one. I would just watch through it again and confirm each one, there was nothing crazy needed though.
Is an alignment needed afterwards with all the movement?
I addressed this in a couple other comments.....but anytime a suspension component is removed, its recommended and ideal to get an alignment, or at least checked. Honestly the effects of this job are likely minimal because the two bolts being removed aren’t adjustable or points used for alignment adjustment, although the other end of the arm (bolt mounting arm to rear sub frame) is where alignment adjustments are made.
The damn bold was flipped on mine, the nut was on the inside so I had to push it out... which was hell.
Is the torque wrench 100% needed or can I just tighten the screws to where they are tight enough but not over tightened if that makes sense
Yea you can get away with just tightening them by feel, but of course torque specs are ideal. But 9.9/10 if your vehicle was in a real automotive shop they aren’t torquing shit to spec anyway.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks man I appreciate the help. the only thing thats got me shook is messing with the suspension parts but other than that seems simple.
1 more question I recently went out to buy silicone grease for the guide pins and brake pads but I only could findsuper tech silicone lubricant thats in a can will that still do the job?
@@fightlikegentlemen naaa thats not at all what you want. Thats for like helping rubber hoses for example slide on/off easily. These will be greases. You can a Permatex caliper grease and brake pad grease at a local parts store.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee man ive been at it for houra and I cant seem to realign the holes for the arm. I can hit the arm any higher then I need to be on one of the holes.
Awesome job. Looks difficult for someone with no patience like myself.
Lol some patience is definitely needed. But I appreciate it!
What impact wrench do you use?
Dewalt DCF894H
Would it be good practice to ad a tiny bit of lube before putting the new rotor on?
Depends on where, definitely don't want to lube the rotor itself up lol. But something that would be a good practice is cleaning up the hub bearing underneath, and lubing that before sliding the rotor on so it doesn't create a rusty weld next time you go to remove the rotors.
Will that not mess up the alignment?
SergeantTubesocks anytime a suspension component is removed, its recommended and ideal to get an alignment. Honestly the effects of this job are likely minimal because the two bolts being removed aren’t adjustable or points used for alignment adjustment, although the other end of the arm (bolt mounting arm to rear sub frame) is where alignment adjustments are made. So an alignment would definitely be ideal to ensure all specs are correct.
Changed my brakes and rotors on my Kia optima ex 2015 and what the heck was Kia thinking ! Putting those rear caliper brackets behind that suspension part . Now I Love my Kia but dang !!!!!
What’s that little rubber grommet on the rotor for ?
guiaes the rubber grommets in rotors are typically inspection holes, and/or for parking brake adjustment in the rear.
I can’t get my rear pads in… yours just drop in like nothing! Maybe my calipers are too rusty
Thats wild, someone commented on this video like a week ago and said the same thing. I would make sure the hardware is perfect and not hanging you up. Maybe try getting the rear one in first as well, then install the front one.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I’m thinking I need new brackets. Only was able to finish one side before it starting snowing on Easter. Everywhere was closed and I had to drive 3 hours home to make it to work on Monday 😅😅😅
@@Thedriver96207 oh damn lol. Where you located that it was snowing?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I was visiting family in northeast Maine, Up near Canada. Shit sucks 😂
@@Thedriver96207 oh damnn i guess it would be snowing there lol
Top notch advice
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
THANK YOU MATE, APPRICIATE YOUR VIDEO
Appreciate the comment! 🙏
This should work for the Cadenza too! 8:36
That's why I always charge good or extra to do rear discs on some kia
Hi is this sameas Kia 2016 Optima?
No, you shouldn’t have this obstacle on 2016, according to someone else who commented on this video...hence the reason the video is only listed to 2015.
Great video bro thanks!!!
Hey,
What size is the small bolt that is tucked away behind the suspension joint, that holds the caliper?
Thanks,
Jeff
Should be 12mm
Where did you find the torque specs.?
Greg Hercik i got connects 😉 lol
This helped a lot. Thanks 🤙🏼
Richard Ortiz glad it helped man 🤙
I took off rear caliper without removing all that just put a wrench in bolt and lousing it tell caliper comes off leave the bolt lay in there
Cool 👍
I was thinking about installing it myself until you started taking the suspension apart, lol!
I'm a god awful mechanic and I got it done. Don't let it scare ya.
chase8392 thanks bro, I’ll try it eventually.
chase8392 love it good stuff 👍
You call that taking suspension apart 😆 🤣 😂
Very helpful video, nice job!
Thank you! I’m glad it helped!
Thanks for the video
🙏🙏🙏
Thanks! 👍🏾
Thank you!
I see you just pressed in the rear pistons. So the rear calipers do not need that special e brake tool that winds down the piston. My last car needed a tool that screwed the rear piston back in the caliper. Ahh, i see now the e brake on this car is like a drum brake..
I also put the bolt through the control arm with the nut on the outside. This, as you say, was the way it came from the factory. The only reason they did it this way is that it enables you to use a punch to knock it out. Of course, the head hits the shock so the shock has to be moved out of the way. I'm not sure what is worse, trying this way or reversing the bolt and then having to pull it out somehow. Anyway, I used a c-clamp on the bolt head and nut area on the arm to push the bolt through everything. There is no room to use a punch on the bolt head when putting the bolt back to factory. Car is a pain in the ass. Of course, I had to deal with the electronic brack system. Jesus.
I don't remove the caliper bracket, I just remove the brake pads and put the new ones on and that's it!
Well, that’s what you would do if you were just replacing the pads themselves, thats it. But bracket has to come off to remove/replace the rotors….which is what the purpose of this video and was outlined.
Im having a friend fo front and back tomorrow. He thought it was going to be a walk in the park 😁
Lol. Some people have mentioned using a “spanner” wrench to do this without removing suspension. So that could be a possibility, this is the “by the book” method.
54 ft lbs is a miss print. There's no way that size bolt will stand that much torque. 35 - 40 lbs is plenty .
The bolt that secures the arm to the spindle I can see 54 lbs .
Pays to research the proper torque , service manuals are misleading at times .
...Exactly why I personally didn’t torque it to 54lbs in the video, & why I recommend & mention not too. 54lbs was a feasible value when I saw it...considering many car rear caliper bracket torque values are in a 50-70 range, and that torque insert is right from Kia’s factory service manual. But as I outlined in the video, 54lbs is indeed too high. As I said that torque value insert was right from the Kia FSM..I must say personally, I find it rare that service manuals are “‘misleading”, however I have come across what I’ve believed to be misprints in FSM’s a couple times, and this very well could be as well, as you mentioned. But if you have another source for torque specs other than service manual(s) or numerous opinions from others from Google, do share.
couldve just used a offset box end wrench
Make a video
Holy freaking Kia sucks! Can't believe how difficult they make it to take off that rear caliper! Thank you for instructions. Going to give this a shot myself tomorrow for first time. Will be lucky to get all 4 done... think I'll start w/ the front... ;o) I got 2 motor head neighbors to jump in as soon as I raise the white flag. Got some nice R1 Concept drilled and slotted and will actually try to paint the calipers black before putting everything back together. Will need a lot of luck. I'll be praying and listening to some K-Love on the job for some added heavenly support! ;o)
Good luck man! Just take your time and don’t rush it, you’ll be fine 👍
@@TheOriginalBeeCee couldn't even get the 2 rotor screws or caliper bolts off... I used a hammer impact screw remove and still ended up stripping them. Even used tons of PB blaster... My buddy rescued me and did the whole job for $250... All 4 rotors and brakes. Best money spent ever. 😁✌️
@@ChefRov ahh that sucks to hear man. Honestly heat and an impact is the true recipe for success on rotor screws. I got like a 98% rate with that method lol.
@@ChefRov i just did mine and I had to drill the screws out. Wasn't so bad.
Whoever engineered this this way need to have there knees broken and thrown in a river. Also installing the bolt the other way would have avoided this crap process. Great video though!!
All the videos replacing rear rotors on this car I have yet to see one person clean and lube the slide pins. 🤷♀️ 🤷♂️
I thought I mentioned that in the video, but I agree...they definitely need to be inspected at the very least.
Was going to replace my moms rotors and pads and saw that stupid bolt by the bushing. I’m in the rain and after I saw that I said fuck that lol that’s why I’d never buy a Kia other reasons also. Good video bud !!
Lol i hear ya man!
no need to bleed the brakes after11
Most of the time no, you don't need to bleed on a brake replacement. But if the fluid is dark, higher mileage, or loosing pressure, than yes, bleeding is definitely in order. Just a potential recommendation, doesn't haven't to apply to every job/situation.
Had to put my wheel back on after I saw this (bolt behind the strut). Dumbass engineering Kia
Ya took me 2 hrs to put that pin back in… broke a screwdriver
Very helpful, thank you. Enjoyed the jokes here and there too 😂
SenpaiiPlz lol thanks man!!!