Awesome Video even though I bought the top of the line brake pads at almost $60 your video saved me by doing it myself for the first time at 48 years old I changed my own pads and I saved over $100 , thank you, I look forward to other videos I got a. 15 Optima...
Excellent video. Excellent brake job with a few (slight) misses. As a Senior who has changed brakes more times than I can count on all different types of vehicles (American, Japanese, Korean, cars and trucks), the only thing I see that I would have done differently is to clean the rubber around the piston. In fact, clean the piston as much as possible also. I put brake cleaner on a shop rag or paper towel and also wipe both sides of the rotor. One wants to look for glazing caused by heat. If the rotors are scored or glazed... they need to be turned by a shop to remove the glaze or scoring. However, if the heating is too high it can warp a rotor so one must note whether the rotor is turning true. Secondly, if the rotor is scored too deeply.. even turning it won't help and the rotor will have to be replaced. This gentleman checked the rotor and it was fine. I also NEVER use Windex, brake fluid cleaner, gasoline, acetone, lacquer thinner or alcohol, to clean the rubber parts. All of these solvents can destroy the rubber. Use water or water with a little dish soap on a rag or paper towels and clean all rubber boots. This includes the rubber around the piston and around the caliper bolts. I also use an old toothbrush or soft bristle brush to help clean any grime off the rubber boots. Brake fluid cleaner can be used on the caliper itself, the rotor, and other metal parts but don't get it on any rubber boots. Use a small metal bristle brush to clean the dirt off of the caliper and other metal parts.. then use a can of air or your air compressor to blow any dust off and wipe with brake cleaner. Many times new brake pads (or even shoes on older vehicles) come with a small packet of brake grease. If not, when you buy your pads (or shoes for older vehicles - some with rear shoes).. buy some brake grease. As this gentleman did, clean off the old grease and put it on the Caliper bushings and pins and do as he did and "burp" the rubber to get any air out. Next, put grease on the back of the pads (never the front!!).. this can stop squeal between the piston and pad. Also, put a drop on the mounting TABS where they slide into the anti-rattle clips. Put a drop into the anti-rattle clips where the TABS slide into. Do NOT use very much! It doesn't take much. You NEVER want grease to get onto the face of the pads (or shoes) and the rotor (or shoe drums). If one doesn't want to go to a store (like Harbor Freight Tools) for a tool to compress the piston... simply use a 5 or 6" C-clamp and an old brake pad. Put the old brake pad on the face of the piston and put a C camp onto the back of the piston housing and the pad. Have the CAP OFF on the Brake Fluid Container inside of the vehicle... then simply close the C Clamp against the old pad to compress the piston. Next slide the clean caliper over the new brake pads. All in all this is an excellent video and the gentleman doing it deserves much praise.
Thank you for all that info , I like detailed comments. I know a bit more could have been done such as cleaning the caliper but overall that's how I do all my brake jobs . Obviously if I'm replacing the rotor I'll clean the rotor with brake clean, clean the rust off the hub so the rotor sits flat and so on. I have other brake job videos like that 👍I appreciate you watching and taking the time to leave a comment.
Thanks for the vid... I have a 13 Optima and your vid gave me the confidence to do them myself. Everything was real simple and clear. Completed the job in about 30 min. Awesome job will sub
Thanks a lot for posting this. My front right pads just started scraping yesterday, and will be trying to replace them myself. However, the thing that's worrying me, is my rotor now has a scrape about a 1/4" from the outside edge. It's not deep, but you CAN definitely feel it. I'm pretty sure it will need resurfaced. Anyways, thanks for making the video. It really does help people like me who can't afford a shop, or dont have the know how to do it ourselves.
Really nice brake change vid. I have changed out brakes on Fords, Chevy's Chrystlers and Kia's for all my family and kids over the years. I learned some new things watching this and very VERY much appreciate the information. Always used a C-clamp and brake pad but never again - I'm getting one of those spreaders - DUDE - Clamps are not fun. :-)
Thanks a lot man! You have the best how to video that I have seen yet. Quite thorough and to the point. I liked and subscribed because I will see if you cover my next projects first!
I have to honestly say I’ve seen a lot of videos and your video was excellent.. extremely helpful and I like how you are very detailed man thank you for this info
Nice! Dealership wanted to rip me off and charge 800 bucks for rotors and breaks.... I said man this ain’t no high performance kit I can do it my self lol
Haha great video just did mine, my driver side bottom guide pin bolt snapped right at 20 foot pounds on my snap on torque wrench lmao, luckily the local store has some in stock
Nice to see pads being used to the full and discs not totally worn out. My Hyundai i10 has 22k on the clock and the pads have loads of meat still on, but they are eating the discs. The pad compound is far too harsh.
You did the same thing I did... put the wrong back pad on the passenger side. The one you took off the wear bar was on the bottom, you installed the one with it on the top. I had to take it all apart and switch the back pads... for some reason with it in the wrong position it makes some noise right out the gate. May have something to do with the pins, one has that rubber plunger on the end the other is smooth metal. The one with the rubber plunger is always a little more stiff than the smooth one. Idk just my 2 cents.
I need to replace my brakes and this video is awesome and detailed. Should I get drilled/slotted rotors as well or should I stick to the standard rotor with the car? Thank you and awesome video.
Perfect how-to for my 2013, i would appreciate it a little more if you would have listed the tools used in the description. I have never seen a numeric torque wrench.
The mech a nic thank you for the time and effort you put into this video to help others achieve a better level of professionalism you already have. Yes basic tools but it is always nice to shop around for new tools the pros like yourself are using! Lol
Hey man, nice video! I was wondering if it is ok to push the old fluid back up into the master cylinder? Is it bad for ABS sensor/ pump? I watched another guy do it and he ended up clamping the brake line, putting a one man bleeder thing on the bleed valve and then pushing the piston in.
Just take the cap off the resevoir while you push the fluid back up. I've been doing it the way I did it in the video for years and I've never had a problem. You can open the bleeder valve to get the old fluid out but then you'll have to bleed the system and for some people it can be tricky. If not done right your brakes will work for poorly
K last thing, does it really matter if its still the original brake fluid? I was just doing pads and rotors on the front. Mines a 2014 optima as well and has like 60,000 miles.
Brake fluid should be changed but I'd recommend taking it to a shop for that. Over time brake fluid absorbs moisture and your brake lines and calipers start to rust from the inside out.
No one has a video on replacing the Kia Optima emergency brake shoes located under the rotor. Mine needed to be replaced after the shoe lining feel off when replacing the rotor.
I was always taught to open the bleeder as you compress the piston. Mostly on older cars. Reason being over time you get dirt and other impurities in the resovoir and it all goes to the lowest point. If you do this on an older car you will notice that the first bit that comes out is usually really dirty. You have to make sure to close it right away before you release pressure unless you are bleeding them later. Do you have an opinion on this?
Opening the bleeder is not necessary. It just creates more work. I get too many cars towed to me because they opened the bleeder just to do a simple job like changing pads. If you have the experience/tools to bleed the brakes then go for it but its not necessary
loosen lug nuts jack up car take off wheel Loosen brake line turn on car and turn steering wheel remove lower fastener rotate caliper backwards remove pads remove cap from brake reservior use caliper compression to push piston in clean shims put pad in with back pad with wear indicator
Is it normal for your brakes make little rubbing noise when you put new pads on? I didnt change the rotors but they were still really smooth. There was a lot of rust (I drove for a long time on the east coast).
What if the Piston doesn't want to go inon either caliper? I was letting someone change my pads and the couldn't get it to go in. Do you thing the calipers are bad or the we're doing something wrong? Thanks
It doesn't need it . The only thing lube does is attract and retain dirt.if you check the brakes on A new car there's never any lube on the hardware and you can go years problem free
hey man! i have a 2015 kia optima, i just replaced my breaks but two weeks later i hear a clicking sound or tapping sound. it happens when im driving and also when i break. not sure if youve ran into this before? but the breaks on my car are put the correct way and everything seems fine. help?
Check to see if the metal shims (brake hardware) are touching the rotor. Also the dust shield can get bent behind the rotor and make contact with it also.
At 5:15 I lubed them...if you're referring to the shims that the pads ride on its not necessary to grease them. New cars dont come with grease in that area. As long as its clean its good to go. Grease in that area actually cause dirt n grime to stick to the grease then causes future problems. Thats why i dont grease where the pads slide.
Can anyone answer this? 2015 SX turbo, does the stock front caliber are they single piston design? centric? looking to upgrade the brakes, Rotors/calibers and pads, but i want tot confirm the number of piston in the stock caliber before ordering parts as the car is heavier then my previous car by 500 pounds
When replacing my brakes the slide pin still turns while trying to tighten the caliper bolt any idea what that is? And if i were to hold the slide pin what size wrench would that be?
Yes you have to hold the slide pin with a wrench as you tighten the bolt. I'm not sure what size it is. Try different sizes till one fits. Typically they're in the 14mm-18mm range
Awesome Video even though I bought the top of the line brake pads at almost $60 your video saved me by doing it myself for the first time at 48 years old I changed my own pads and I saved over $100 , thank you, I look forward to other videos I got a. 15 Optima...
Thank you for watching and I'm glad you saved so much! Thank you ! 👍
Kept it simple, clear, and straight to the point. Nice to see good Dads doing their thing
Thank you 👍
Respect. You have the clearest video. You name the tools, steps and procedures. You also use best practices.....a REAL pro. Thank you for the videos!
Thank you for the comment 👍
Excellent video. Excellent brake job with a few (slight) misses. As a Senior who has changed brakes more times than I can count on all different types of vehicles (American, Japanese, Korean, cars and trucks), the only thing I see that I would have done differently is to clean the rubber around the piston. In fact, clean the piston as much as possible also. I put brake cleaner on a shop rag or paper towel and also wipe both sides of the rotor. One wants to look for glazing caused by heat. If the rotors are scored or glazed... they need to be turned by a shop to remove the glaze or scoring. However, if the heating is too high it can warp a rotor so one must note whether the rotor is turning true. Secondly, if the rotor is scored too deeply.. even turning it won't help and the rotor will have to be replaced. This gentleman checked the rotor and it was fine.
I also NEVER use Windex, brake fluid cleaner, gasoline, acetone, lacquer thinner or alcohol, to clean the rubber parts. All of these solvents can destroy the rubber. Use water or water with a little dish soap on a rag or paper towels and clean all rubber boots. This includes the rubber around the piston and around the caliper bolts. I also use an old toothbrush or soft bristle brush to help clean any grime off the rubber boots.
Brake fluid cleaner can be used on the caliper itself, the rotor, and other metal parts but don't get it on any rubber boots. Use a small metal bristle brush to clean the dirt off of the caliper and other metal parts.. then use a can of air or your air compressor to blow any dust off and wipe with brake cleaner.
Many times new brake pads (or even shoes on older vehicles) come with a small packet of brake grease. If not, when you buy your pads (or shoes for older vehicles - some with rear shoes).. buy some brake grease. As this gentleman did, clean off the old grease and put it on the Caliper bushings and pins and do as he did and "burp" the rubber to get any air out. Next, put grease on the back of the pads (never the front!!).. this can stop squeal between the piston and pad. Also, put a drop on the mounting TABS where they slide into the anti-rattle clips. Put a drop into the anti-rattle clips where the TABS slide into. Do NOT use very much! It doesn't take much. You NEVER want grease to get onto the face of the pads (or shoes) and the rotor (or shoe drums).
If one doesn't want to go to a store (like Harbor Freight Tools) for a tool to compress the piston... simply use a 5 or 6" C-clamp and an old brake pad. Put the old brake pad on the face of the piston and put a C camp onto the back of the piston housing and the pad. Have the CAP OFF on the Brake Fluid Container inside of the vehicle... then simply close the C Clamp against the old pad to compress the piston. Next slide the clean caliper over the new brake pads.
All in all this is an excellent video and the gentleman doing it deserves much praise.
Thank you for all that info , I like detailed comments. I know a bit more could have been done such as cleaning the caliper but overall that's how I do all my brake jobs . Obviously if I'm replacing the rotor I'll clean the rotor with brake clean, clean the rust off the hub so the rotor sits flat and so on. I have other brake job videos like that 👍I appreciate you watching and taking the time to leave a comment.
Dude! I was so anxious about changing brakes until I saw your video. Great job explaining! I followed your every move and it was easy.
Glad to hear the video helped you 👍
Thanks for the vid... I have a 13 Optima and your vid gave me the confidence to do them myself. Everything was real simple and clear. Completed the job in about 30 min. Awesome job will sub
+Jermaine Jones great work, glad you were able to get it done. Thanks for the sub.
Did you apply all the liquid stuff he did or just change pads?
It’s hard to find car repair videos that are this high quality. Clear and accurate instructions, good job!
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment
One of the VERY BEST auto repairs I've seen on RUclips.....GREAT JOB....subscribed immediately!
Clear, concise, thorough video with narration. Well done. Thank you.
Thank you for watching/commenting and donating. Really appreciate it 👍
Thank you for posting this. I did the fronts on my parents 2011 Optima and your video made it a breeze!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment 👍
Soon she'll be passing tools to you as you need them! =)
Thanks a lot for posting this. My front right pads just started scraping yesterday, and will be trying to replace them myself.
However, the thing that's worrying me, is my rotor now has a scrape about a 1/4" from the outside edge. It's not deep, but you CAN definitely feel it. I'm pretty sure it will need resurfaced.
Anyways, thanks for making the video. It really does help people like me who can't afford a shop, or dont have the know how to do it ourselves.
You're welcome. I appreciate you watching. Yes you'll need to get the rotor resurfaced or just replace it. It's far easier to get a new rotor 👍
Thanks bro, I always need a reminder before I change my brakes, and this was perfect!
You're welcome
Thank you for the video. I did my front brakes today and I was done in 45 minutes.
Great! Glad you got it done. 👍
Just finished doing my first ever brake job on my car thanks to your video. Much appreciated!
Great ! Glad you got it done ! Thank you. 👍
This is the best video ever. Great freaking job. I do my own maintenance but I would definitely hire you. You are very thorough.
Thank you 👍
Good job explaining with great detail and tips. 40 people were mad about advice 😆
Lol. Thank you
Really nice brake change vid. I have changed out brakes on Fords, Chevy's Chrystlers and Kia's for all my family and kids over the years. I learned some new things watching this and very VERY much appreciate the information. Always used a C-clamp and brake pad but never again - I'm getting one of those spreaders - DUDE - Clamps are not fun. :-)
Great! New tools are always exciting and learning new tricks to help make the job easier is the best 👍 thanks for watching
Good vid. Im a Jeep wrangler wrencher and was hoping this wouldnt be any worse, in fact it was easier. Thanks for the detailed tutorial.
You're welcome, thanks for watching 👍
Just A great video. Very clear. loved seeing little Ave!
Really good video. Attention to detail here. I really appreciate videos like this.
nice video! Explanation was on point! I'm a retired master mechanic!
Great! That's cool. Glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Thanks a lot man! You have the best how to video that I have seen yet. Quite thorough and to the point. I liked and subscribed because I will see if you cover my next projects first!
Thank you. I appreciate the comment
I have to honestly say I’ve seen a lot of videos and your video was excellent.. extremely helpful and I like how you are very detailed man thank you for this info
Thank you , I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching 👍
Best video ever, you deserve much more credit and more subs. You got a new one here! 💯
You have the talent of teaching. Thank you for your video. I’m subscribing.
Thank you
Nice! Dealership wanted to rip me off and charge 800 bucks for rotors and breaks.... I said man this ain’t no high performance kit I can do it my self lol
Lol that's a crazy high price
You mean 'Stealership'
They told me 850 I'm gonna do front first time I'm 38 and nervous 2015 kia sportage
Just bled the brakes. Thanks for the Input bro, you know your shit. Braking is back to normal.
Great👍 glad you got it fixed
That’s awesome you brought your baby girl with you man!
Got to teach her the ropes lol
The mech a nic haha exactly brother! You’ll have a little helper before you know it!
I hope so lol
Cute baby! You made it simple man, thank you!
+bnnhify Thank you, appreciate you watching.
Very helpful and professional video. Well done. Thanks
+jdog inky Thank you, thanks for watching.
This was very helpful, thank you for making this video.
Thank you for watching
This was really helpful but you know your daughter stole the show!
Thank you and she sure did. She's two years old now.growing fast ! 👍
Haha great video just did mine, my driver side bottom guide pin bolt snapped right at 20 foot pounds on my snap on torque wrench lmao, luckily the local store has some in stock
That sucks but its happened to me before!
Nice to see pads being used to the full and discs not totally worn out. My Hyundai i10 has 22k on the clock and the pads have loads of meat still on, but they are eating the discs. The pad compound is far too harsh.
You can try a softer compound. It will eat the pads faster but pads are always cheaper than rotors👍
I see it as a money making exercise if they offer a long warranty they push discs and pads to bump up the maintenance costs.
Thanks so much for the video bro. This helped me a lot.
You're welcome
Good job bro. This video is the truth.
Thank you 🙏
Great Video im going to Change my front brakes pads on my Kia imma save $600 bucks 😊 Thanks bro
You are the man! Thanks buddy!
Thanks for watching 👍
You did the same thing I did... put the wrong back pad on the passenger side. The one you took off the wear bar was on the bottom, you installed the one with it on the top. I had to take it all apart and switch the back pads... for some reason with it in the wrong position it makes some noise right out the gate. May have something to do with the pins, one has that rubber plunger on the end the other is smooth metal. The one with the rubber plunger is always a little more stiff than the smooth one. Idk just my 2 cents.
Thanks! Great vid...gives me the confidence to do it myself.
Great! Follow the steps and you'll be ok
This video saved me dude thanks!
No problem.thanks for watching
Thanks man. This is a great help.
Great video! Your baby is so adorable!
Great video BTW and im hoping you have more on Kia optimas
Thanks you brother excellent information.
Thank you
Great video! Helped a lot
+Brandon Doss thank you
I need to replace my brakes and this video is awesome and detailed. Should I get drilled/slotted rotors as well or should I stick to the standard rotor with the car? Thank you and awesome video.
I found that standard rotors do a better job at stopping than drilled/slotted. Thanks for watching 👍
Perfect how-to for my 2013, i would appreciate it a little more if you would have listed the tools used in the description. I have never seen a numeric torque wrench.
Thank you, basic hand tools can get this job done and a normal torque wrench. 👍
The mech a nic thank you for the time and effort you put into this video to help others achieve a better level of professionalism you already have.
Yes basic tools but it is always nice to shop around for new tools the pros like yourself are using! Lol
I am about to perfom this job for the front tires.
Yes! Buying new tools is always fun 😊👍
Good luck,let me know how it goes
Great video glad I found it. Im replacing the brakes and rotors. Can you tell me what is the torque for the caliper pins and caliper mount pins?
Well done, very informative.
+Bill Cavalieri thank you, I appreciate it.
No brake slide pin queefs...that's the tip of the day. LOL
Take your daughter to work came early in life for Avi. She's cute as a button.
+Rob's Wrenches queefs 😂😂made my day, it's always funny when they do that. Soon she'll learn the way of the Jedi lol. Thank you
The mech a nic
Anytime. 👍
Love the channel, keep up the good content. 👏👏👏
thanks for this video helped a lot!
+Julitza Velez you're welcome, thanks for watching.
Never leave the master cylinder cap open brake fluid is hydroscopic and attracts water. Leaving it open = air in brake lines or spongy brake pedal.
I know this and I never said to leave it open...
Thank you for that video.
You're welcome
Excellent video
Thanks for watching
Your the that dude bro 👍🏽
awesome video thanks playa!
Thanks for watching
Thanks good video!
Thank you for watching
Hey man, nice video! I was wondering if it is ok to push the old fluid back up into the master cylinder? Is it bad for ABS sensor/ pump? I watched another guy do it and he ended up clamping the brake line, putting a one man bleeder thing on the bleed valve and then pushing the piston in.
Just take the cap off the resevoir while you push the fluid back up. I've been doing it the way I did it in the video for years and I've never had a problem. You can open the bleeder valve to get the old fluid out but then you'll have to bleed the system and for some people it can be tricky. If not done right your brakes will work for poorly
K last thing, does it really matter if its still the original brake fluid? I was just doing pads and rotors on the front. Mines a 2014 optima as well and has like 60,000 miles.
Brake fluid should be changed but I'd recommend taking it to a shop for that. Over time brake fluid absorbs moisture and your brake lines and calipers start to rust from the inside out.
Great video. Will this same process work on 2010 Kia Rio LX?
Mine is a 2009 optima, is there much of a difference!?! I’m probably going to end up changing them myself tonight!?
Dope video man ! 👌🏽
Thank you 👍
Great Video!!!
Great teacher!!
Subscribed √ liked the video √ turned on the notifications √
all of it was worth it!!
Thanks
+Cheri Hoefsmit Thank you Cheri, I appreciate it.
No one has a video on replacing the Kia Optima emergency brake shoes located under the rotor. Mine needed to be replaced after the shoe lining feel off when replacing the rotor.
If I get a chance to do that job on the Kia I'll record it
You're the man 👍
Great video!
Thanks for watching
Awesome video. Do you have one on how to replace a wheel bearing?
Sorry i dont have a wheel bearing video gor this car.if i come across one ill make a video 👍
Video to change a signal light on a 2013 rear Kia Rio the front signal light for a 2013 Kia Rio
Thank you for vid is this good for kia optima 2016
I have a question, you say 20 lb ft, I think is 20 ft lb, but in in/ pounds is 240 in pounds, thanks
I was always taught to open the bleeder as you compress the piston. Mostly on older cars. Reason being over time you get dirt and other impurities in the resovoir and it all goes to the lowest point. If you do this on an older car you will notice that the first bit that comes out is usually really dirty. You have to make sure to close it right away before you release pressure unless you are bleeding them later. Do you have an opinion on this?
Opening the bleeder is not necessary. It just creates more work. I get too many cars towed to me because they opened the bleeder just to do a simple job like changing pads. If you have the experience/tools to bleed the brakes then go for it but its not necessary
@@themechanic6117 cheers 🍻
So there is no longer a need to bleed the brakes on these newer cars?
Really easy to follow video bro!
+Sam Valdivia you don't have to bleed the brakes to change pads and rotors. Thanks for watching.
very nice video, thanks
Thanks for watching 👍
Good job, thanks man
+TheChristonline you're welcome, thanks for watching.
Hey my break pad just fell off I need help hopefully this video will help will let you know if it worked
Good luck with your repair
Very good video keep up the pre school leasons . Lol
+A Sorrell-Bey lol thank you, some day she'll be a Jedi 😂
loosen lug nuts
jack up car
take off wheel
Loosen brake line
turn on car and turn steering wheel
remove lower fastener
rotate caliper backwards
remove pads
remove cap from brake reservior
use caliper compression to push piston in
clean shims
put pad in with back pad with wear indicator
Thank you🔥🔥🔥
You're welcome
Thank You
Thanks for watching
My 2015 Optima calipers are not budging at all. Any suggestions?
Can you be more specific?
Excellent
Is it normal for your brakes make little rubbing noise when you put new pads on? I didnt change the rotors but they were still really smooth. There was a lot of rust (I drove for a long time on the east coast).
Give it a day or two to see if the noise goes away
What if the Piston doesn't want to go inon either caliper? I was letting someone change my pads and the couldn't get it to go in. Do you thing the calipers are bad or the we're doing something wrong?
Thanks
They you have to replace the caliper
@@themechanic6117 I got them to go in, I don't think they had the pressure centered on the piston.
Yes you have to make sure they go in even or it'll be almost impossible to push it in. Good work
How come you did not put lube on the break hardware kit??
It doesn't need it . The only thing lube does is attract and retain dirt.if you check the brakes on A new car there's never any lube on the hardware and you can go years problem free
Excelente!!!!
Hi, what's the torque figure you use for the lug nuts? thanks!.
Khairul Razi Mohammad 80 lb ft
hey man! i have a 2015 kia optima, i just replaced my breaks but two weeks later i hear a clicking sound or tapping sound. it happens when im driving and also when i break. not sure if youve ran into this before? but the breaks on my car are put the correct way and everything seems fine. help?
Check to see if the metal shims (brake hardware) are touching the rotor. Also the dust shield can get bent behind the rotor and make contact with it also.
WoW! Great Vid. Such a beautiful baby, so content.
Thank you ! 👍😊
Very informative video.
Thanks for watching
No problem. I had never changed brakes before today and after watching this video I was done in less than an hour. Helped save me $200
Glad you got it done and saved money! 💪👍
Hello. I was wondering if that is the suspension cross member that you are using to jack the car up? If yes could it possibly bend?
Yes it is and no it wont bend
@@themechanic6117 Ok thanks. I was just wondering because i was quite scared of jacking up the car there and ruining it.
I happened to notice you didn't lube the clips, is that normal procedure, and if so, why??
At 5:15 I lubed them...if you're referring to the shims that the pads ride on its not necessary to grease them. New cars dont come with grease in that area. As long as its clean its good to go. Grease in that area actually cause dirt n grime to stick to the grease then causes future problems. Thats why i dont grease where the pads slide.
Greetings, I have an 06 Kia. Is it the same process??
Yes it is
@@themechanic6117 Thanks so much for the speedy response. It is greatly appreciated 😊
You're welcome
I went to a mechanic to get my front pads and rotors done but now they squeaking. They used aftermarket parts from auto zone, should it have been oem?
Ive installed plenty of autozone pads without any noise. Have the shop double check your car
Good video.. the baby stole the show, though..lol
+Jose Coss I can't compete with that cuteness lol
Can anyone answer this? 2015 SX turbo, does the stock front caliber are they single piston design? centric?
looking to upgrade the brakes, Rotors/calibers and pads, but i want tot confirm the number of piston in the stock caliber before ordering parts as the car is heavier then my previous car by 500 pounds
When replacing my brakes the slide pin still turns while trying to tighten the caliper bolt any idea what that is? And if i were to hold the slide pin what size wrench would that be?
Yes you have to hold the slide pin with a wrench as you tighten the bolt. I'm not sure what size it is. Try different sizes till one fits. Typically they're in the 14mm-18mm range
What’s the name of the grease you use please?
thx dude
Hey aviana is my daughter's name too!
Ha! Cool lol