BMW 116 Trophy Build - Removing the sump without removing the subframe
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- Опубликовано: 7 мар 2022
- More problems. This time it's stripped threads on the oil drain plug which means I have to remove the sump (oil pan) again. This time I manage to remove it by dropping the front subframe 10cm rather than removing it. If you need to remove the sump from an E87 116i, this video will be useful to you.
BMW 1 Series 116i E87 Race Car Build 2004 2005 2006 Paul Offord
Using power tools is common these days, but many forget to notice that nuts and bolts get really heated and when it's softer material they can get damaged or locked on. Using proper tools without power tools get the job done bit slower but much safer.
Cheers for the vid, nice one.
Good point, Nenad.
This job is a b... to do. I have been stripping my sump off my 120 auto vert, 54000 miles 10 plate just to check for debris from the timing chain. I went through the whole subframe removal , finally got to taking the sump off. Some bits of timing chain guide in the sump , i looked inside the suction pipe , and found a load of bits jammed in the tube. Tube was not blocked fortunately . I bought the car during lockdown from a specialist down in Preston and drove it back to Aberdeen ......just .......engine management light came on but it was happy to stay running quite well to be fair. On tick over it was very smooth for about 10 mins then a little subtle blip in the revs and back to running smooth. Seemed very insignificant. Got home and it wouldnt start next day , its been off the road since i bought it almost 2 years. Garage was not interested in helping, fortunately I am a time served fitter. Its an £8k project which i was trying to avoid. Anyway I spent alot of time fault finding as It was giving me misfire codes different cylinders ,different times , injector changed ,plugs , seals missing from injector, injector clamp was fitted upside down and broken , coil packs replaced 1 had been changed it seems just before i bought the car. I think a few people had a go at this car. It ran fine on the day and drove home 400 miles. Obviously it had been giving trouble, on reflection , I remember the salesman casually saying its running sweet! Now i know why! Steep learning curve . I got the sump off today , and away to wash all parts. Interested that you mention to change the shells , now i am considering that . Where did you get the shells from please? also sump gasket , I am also replacing the timing chain / cassette on the re build as I believe it is the root of all the issues i was having with the car. Engine mounts I am also considering doing as I am here. Replacing all the top end gaskets. Another question , I need to lock the engine while I reapply the torque to the front bottom pulley. Whats the best way to do this , i see flywheel locking keys on ebay , i was thinking of getting one of them. Anyway it was nice to find your video today and be able to trust what you were trying to do. Thank you for posting. Appreciate any feedback.
Wow you are having quite a time of it. I had some bits of timing chain guide in my sump but not quite as bad as you found. I got all the parts you mentioned from Anthony Seddon Racing but that was for an E87 116i. I'm sure you can buy all parts from BMW, just remember to measure your big end journals to check they are standard size. You'll also need new big end bolts as they are single use stretch torque items. You can lock the flywheel by poking an Allen Key through the hole in the block and into the flywheel - I think a 6mm key is a nice snug fit. You should check as you have a different car. I found the approximate position of TDC by putting a thin piece of plastic down the spark plug hole of cylinder 1 and slowly turning the engine using a spanner on the crank pulley. BE VERY CAREFUL when you do this and make sure the plastic or whatever you use doesn't get jammed - keep lifting and dropping it to keep it loose. Or better still use a Dial Gauge. There is no timing hole on the TTV lightweight flywheel, so I will have to switch to a dial gauge. Good luck.
I would try to install the baffle in the new sump, seems like a good insurance against oil starvation. Btw: can you point out the location of the oem oil pressure sender plse ? I’m looking into installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and I’m trying to find the best way to install the sender for it. Might be best to install a braided hose in the engineblock and attach the oem plus the aftermarket senders via a distribution block away from the engine and it’s vibrations. Do regulations allow you to install such a gauge and how would you go about it ? Thanks in advance.
I probably will install the baffle. I'm just getting really impatient to get this finished. Regarding the oil pressure gauge, yes it's allowed. We are allowed to fit oil coolers - the feed and return comes off a custom-made filter housing. The oil gauge sender is usually fitted with a T piece in the hose to the oil cooler
There's an oil pressure switch on the side of the block, isn't there? Maybe you could install a T piece, with the switch attached to one leg and gauge sender attached to the other.
@@PaulOffordRacing The baffle will give you piece of mind. Important when racing. In my case, I will have to find the location of the oil pressure switch on the engine and, to avoid vibration issues, I plan to install a braided line with a T-piece for the oil pressure switch plus the pressure gauge-sender.
Do you have to lose the springs?! I tought it’s possible to just losen the 6 frame bolts and let it hang? Thanks
That may work. I didn't want to hang all that weight from the strut mounts, but I confess I don't know if that would be damaging.
Do you think its possible to remove without taking engine up & sub frame ?
Yes, but you do have to drop the subframe as per this video.
if you put the speed on 1.5 its normal speed.
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