WW2 Jeep Engine Overheating Causes & Fixes
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Engine overheating causes can be hard to diagnose. My 1943 Willys MB has been running great. Then, last week, after driving over 100 miles on a trail ride with the crew from the Military Transport Association of NJ, she starts overheating. What causes a jeep to go from a calm, cool and collected 175 degrees for almost 5 hours to boiling over? Watch and find out!
Here is a link to the 160 degree thermostat: Carquest 13356, made in Israel for what its worth.
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I will be back working on the Studebaker T-24 Weasel next week. There are hours and hours of Weasel restoration videos here: • Studebaker T24 Weasel ...
New videos on Wednesdays and Sundays. Thanks for watching!
So much data and specifics for the lowly workhorse of WW2. When I used to be able to buy parts easily, still in cosmolene, I never knew that these would be fussed overly like the Model T's and all their variations. Thanks for the valuable information for those pursuing "the correct" presentation and keeping them operational.
You are very welcome Craig - seems that nearly everyone finds these old gals irresistible. I was at a show today and some guy called and tried buy the jeep even though it clearly said "display"....I think you have lots of company in that "never knew that these things would be worth anything"...my dad made me pass on a minty Singer 1911 in about 1975...wanted me to keep the $250 in a passbook savings account 😂 it was fair enough advice at the time, but I think my return would have been a lot better on the Singer!
Great informational video for me…new MB owner with lots of learning ahead of me. 🇨🇦👍
Thanks Gary and congratulations! WW2 jeeps are the best - we just finished the restoration of a 1943.."Murph"...and are having a blast with it. We post less frequently here - but you can watch new 30 minute episodes of our show every Thursday at 7pm on www.portrayal.tv Subscribers get access to the entire catalog of over 300 videos. Enjoy you jeep and drop us a note if you have any questions!
Great Video, i am in the UK and own a 1943 GPW, she's my Pride & Joy. Took me the best part of 15 years to save the money to buy her.
Glad you enjoyed it G! WW2 jeeps have gotten a little pricey...particularly on your side of the pond - congratulations...as you know a joy to own and operate!
Fantastic video. Its really great to see you out and about in your Jeep and enjoying it with your Son.
Thank you Carl❤. We have had so much fun - 2500 + miles of it in the last 2 years. She is running great and other than an oil change and a few little routine maintenance items, ready for the next season.
Hello Patrick you did a great job diagnosing the heating issue and the Jeep looks beautiful, you did a very nice job! I need to pull the radiator on my M977 and I already looked through the manuals I got from you and it sure looks like an EASY FUN JOB! HELL NO! I found out the empty weight of the radiator is just under 500 pounds. Oh well like all the other trucks etc, just deal with it right!
Patrick it was great to see the video and the Jeep looks really great Take care and I am sure I will be ordering more manuals as usual!
Karl
Superbe video , love the 179 F
I have replaced a couple of water pumps on my 1953 Willys CJ3b and I found it much easier, if I just removed the radiator and shroud first. It is only a few bolts and takes just a few minutes.
Good tip....one of those things where it takes longer to remove the radiator, but maybe you save time on the installation of the water pump and fan.....for me its seems like a push.....
Love it when I find a great reference for working on my Cj2A if it wasn't for channels like yours I'd be hooped. Thanks.
You are very welcome James - most appreciated!
On a similar note, my scout car when I 1st got her would idle great for 1/2 hour but when I drove her for 10-15 minutes, she would backfire and stall. The temp was about 180. I would let her sit for 20 minuets and would start and drive fine for 10-15 then the same crap. Vapor lock! Took my awhile to find out what was causing it. A gent on the FB forum saw I was missing the phenolic block on the carb. The scout car was new to me so I just did not know that was MIA... Pat, great video!
It always amazes me how much there is to learn about any machine...even when they are very simple. All these little "tricks of the trade" that you are either fortunate enough to pick up from some guy with a lot of experience or you stumble upon when you can't get the machine to function properly. One positive of the internet is that this information can get captured in a way that we can all find it ;-)
Awesome video! Happy you got it fixed!
Appreciate it - I am almost to the point of trusting the jeep again :-)
I did a full flush of several things the last few months as my 1944 GPW was overheating and constantly overflowing. I was getting lots of crud when taking off the radiator cap. First I used a store-bought radiator flush. Drained the block/radiator, then filled with water. Ran the Jeep for 10 minutes, shut off. Waited till cool, drained water. Poured in radiator Flush liquid and topped off with water. Ran the Jeep for little 15 min drives every day for about 5 days. After each drive, once cool I'd remove the radiator cap and it was covered in almost a mud, so it was working. After the week of driving, I drained the stuff out and did a full water flush (blasting water into the block via the thermostat elbow hole and removing the radiator from the Jeep to fully flush it out from all angles). Put it all back together, put the thermostat elbow and radiator back on (temporarily with the elbow, reused the gasket with some new permatex) then re-filled with water so I could drive the Jeep again and see how things look before putting coolant in.
I decided to let it go for 2 days. On the second day, I noticed some of the grime was back. Ugh! So I went for another round, this time with Calcium, Lime, Rust (CLR) as some people recommended. 128oz container of it from Lowes. Because of the corrosive nature of CLR, you want to try and do this flush in one day. So I drained the water that was in the block/radiator and poured in half (64oz) of the CLR. Topped off with some water. Ran the Jeep for 15 minutes and did a quick drive around the neighborhood. Drained the CLR/water, did a water flush, then put the second half of the CLR into the system topped off with water. Did another 15 minutes of running the Jeep and driving around the local area. After it cooled, again drained the CLR/Water and did a final water flush. After that, I put in water again for 2-days to check.
2 Days later, no sediment, pure water. YAY! Drained the water and did a flush again (just to be sure). Filled with coolant. Since that CLR flush in late June, I've had nothing but nice looking coolant and not a single bit of grime build up on the radiator cap. Jeep stays around 175-180 on most my drives. It's a crazy heatwave lately here in SoCal of over 100 degrees and where I live has a lot of hills I have to traverse, so the temp has popped up to 185 at times, but quickly goes back to 180 or 175 once I slow my driving down.
Here's the links to my photo documenting of the flushes...
1st Flush (Part 1) - facebook.com/1944gpw/posts/730434761030042
1st Flush (Part 2) - facebook.com/1944gpw/posts/735228267217358
2nd Flush (CLR, later in the post) - facebook.com/1944gpw/posts/745034112903440
Fantastic writeup! Thank you very much. Crazy enough....I purchased some CLR on Saturday after a buddy suggested it and then I perused a bunch of posts in various forums and it seemed to work for people. I was sitting on the fence about whether or not I should leave well enough alone as I mentioned in the video. Great to hear of your experiences and that you got your cooling system working like it should. I am going to flush the system and I bet I get a little improvement.
I also helped my same friend put his motor back together last week. We need to do a little tweaking before we reinstall in his jeep. One of the things we are going to do is flush his block because it doesn't look that good inside. He had machine work done on to install Timeserts for several studs, but he did not have them bake/clean the block. It needs a good flush.
....and then I picked up a WW2 era generator yesterday with rebuild tags from 1952, 79 hours on the Hobbs and everything standard. The block is GPW and the head Willys circa 44. Not sure what I got yet, but it looks pretty promising. It also definitely needs a flush!
@@Portrayalpress Lots of flushing it sounds like! The real key is, whatever flush you do end up doing, to make sure you flush out all the radiator flush/CLR from the system. It's going to break up some nasty stuff for sure. When I took my radiator out after the CLR flush to rinse out, everytime I'd flip it over upsidedown and shot water into the intake/outtake ports it would shoot out all sorts of gunk from the neck area. Same with it flipped rightside up, shooting water into the neck and top intake port made all sorts of gunk come out of the bottom out port. But I'm happy with the flushes, and with at least a good 70+ miles on it since the flush, not a single bit of gunk on the cap!
One other thing to watch for is the freeze plugs. A flush could, if the rust is bad, cause them to leak if it breaks that rust up. I don't believe it's all that common for that to happen, but still good to keep an eye on after a flush!
Appreciate the insights & experience. I am going to do as you say and then remove my radiator and really work it over. I am close I think.....I have seen freeze plugs leak after aggressive cleaning...they are not too bad to replace, but I am not sure about doing that in the jeep and I certainly don't want to pull the motor if I can help it...
I got the generator running yesterday - poorly, but she runs. I need to do a quick & dirty carb rebuild. She was running on 3 1/2 - #1 has pretty low compression but the other 3 are strong so I am thinking it is a stuck valve. I poured Marvel Mystery Oil in all of them and let them sit overnight. I think it is going to be a good engine - and will turn out to be a fine buy....
Great video as always, thank you for posting a wealth of knowledge.
Thank you Lawrence!
Got the same issue with my late 42 early 43 Ford, fully rebuilt motor, ran cool for ages then got really hot after I added coolant in the water???!?
Theres a 12 second clip if you do a search for my name and first drive since 1963 under it's own power.
Yours is a very nice part of the world !
Sorry missed this comment a while ago! Hope you got your overheating sorted out.
@Portrayalpress i did thanks! I used an old style water soluble oil I bought in Sydney. Brought the temperature down to 165 170. Happy Jeeping!
Good stuff - enjoy!!
@@andrewjoyce7789
Loved your Trouble shooting.
I‘m looking forward to more on the Jeep😋
Thanks Michel - wrapping up the assembly and testing of my friend's jeep motor today. I am going to help him install it...might shoot some video....
Ooo so jaleous!!! Yes that would be nice to see🤗
We will do Michel. The motor is running beautifully after a few hours of tweaking yesterday. Should be good to go!
Good video. You have a great looking Jeep.
Many thanks Dennis! Most appreciated!!
Good job. I went through the same thing on my cj2a.
Thanks Tom! She is running like a champ these days. I ended up replacing the radiator - my original just was not up to the task.
What a great video. Really super! Nice job!!
Thank you very much! Most appreciated!
Hi Patrick my jeep runs about 178/180 and when at speed goes up slightly then backs off ,also I had a slight misfire when slowing down on the overrun I replaced pcv valve and the misfire went or take off and clean it out give that a try ! Good vid enjoyed it
Thanks Dave. Interesting about the PCV valve - many thanks for sharing. I will clean it out and see....the jeep is running great but does have a little miss at idle. I will report back. Thanks again!!
One thing you can also do to diagnose water pump is to run the engine without rad cap and see if the water is flowing as it should...😊
Excellent Ronnie. I really wasn't seeing good flow before I started flushing it.....another clue!
I do to have a world war II generator. ZXB Hercules made by Hobart 4 cylinder engine. Having the same issues. But mine is still a generator. Just water circulation,.I can't tell if it's circulating or not. You would be a perfect candidate to make a video on the water pump circulating the water on how the water is supposed to circulate by watching the water move within the radiator cap.
Here is a tip....we know water boils at 212f so you can test the thermostat in a pot of water in the kitchen with a cooking thermometer and see when visually and at what temp the thermostat opens.
Fine video...160 stat was OEM...your diagnosis was good.When an engine suddenly & violently overheats (after a substantial run that is normal)...a sticking thermostat is high suspect & easily changed...
Should that not correct the issue...a marginally stopped up radiator is usually the cause.
I have seen thermostats' bellows linkage foul with junk from the radiator and/or block...
....I am an old radiator shop guy...first thing I did when I rebuilt my 43 Willys was to recore the radiator-to protect that 2K engine rebuild....Cheers
I would agree to this comment too, probably the thermostat fouled up and cause the overheating.
Thanks Ralph - that makes a lot of sense. Have you ever used the product CLR or know anything about it? I am still thinking of running it through the block to get any remaining rust out before I refill with antifreeze.
FWIW, I did my own semi-rebuild on this radiator. I took the tanks off and rodded out the tubes. I got it all back together again pretty uneventfully but there was a leak in one of the tubes and I was a little scared to try and repair it for fear that I would create more leaks. I took it to a local guy and he cut and soldered two tubes. I did not dip or otherwise treat the tubes so while I know they were unobstructed - I am not sure there isn't scale in them which could impact flow.
I have another radiator that needs a little shroud TLC and I am working on it. I am going to have this guy check it and likely recore it. In the meantime, I think this fix is working and I will just keep a sharp eye out on the temp gauge....
Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge.
@@lexpaques4055 Greetings Lex!
@@Portrayalpress Doing your own rod-out is impressive; even with the guy's assist...That gave your radiator heathy status.Now-and always-the crud is block-produced...it can, down the line ,re-clog the radiator.(the block is corroding 24-7)
CLR or any number of products available can break crud loose but it will end up in the radiator unless you consider something like this:
At the shop we would first remove the thermostat, then reinstall the housing.To reverse-flush the block -separately and independent of the radiator-we used a flush gun with air over water, equipped with a trigger to engage the air push. The end of the wand was a conical rubber tip to seal-fit the upper(Tstat port)....Because it will blow out of the water pump port, a hose must be attached there to direct the (crud-filled) blast toward the ground.The radiator should be flushed last, preferably also reverse-flushed.We always recommended a new thermostat.Back in the day they were about three bucks.Good job on the rod-out.
Thanks Ralph. That makes a lot of sense. I am going to see if I can engineer something like that to clean my block out. It was cooler yesterday and the temps are running pretty consistently at 180....not bad but I think I can get it down 5-10 degrees and call it a day. Appreciate you sharing your wealth of experience!
Hola buenas tardes
Tengo un jeep con esos mismos síntomas, sumado a lo anterior cuando apago el motor la temperatura sigue subiendo y me gustaría saber si a su carro le pasa lo mismo.
Voy a instalar el termostato a mi carro y así saber si se mantiene la temperatura y al momento de apagar lo también se mantenga.
Tiene un hermoso carro, saludos desde Colombia- Bogota
Basically explaining what way the water circulation flows explaining the water pump circulation. Even though I can tell my engine is a little different than yours it's still the same concept.
Thanks Revolution - we are actually working on a shop manual for the jeep and trying to get into some of this...we happen to be working on the cooling system and there is plenty for all of us to learn there. I am doing daily videos in March (2021) on the Weasel restoration but will put this on the list.
With respect to your generator, have you pulled the thermostat to see if it is working? You can test it by putting in boiling water as you may know...they do get fouled up and stick....Water pumps tend to leak before they fail....so less likely. If the cooling jacket is just fouled up, I am pretty impressed with that Thermocure (we did a video)....cleans out the junk pretty well.
You can test and verify the thermostat. Boil a pot of water and place it in the pot. You can take it in and out to see if it works...
Thank you. Good suggestion and useful diagnostic....the only thing you have to watch for is that a sticking thermostat may work when you put it in boiling water but hang if the change is more gradual. If you have the patience to watch the pot boil, put the thermostat in a pot of cold water with a thermometer and see if it opens at the correct temperature. I think the thermostat I removed is sticking.....
160 is the opening point of a 160 thermostat. It begins opening at 160. It is not fully open at 160.
when you had the pump off run the garden hose into the block and flush it out //my Willys had the water block off in the head //
Make sure your heat riser is working or it heat your intake air too much makes it run hot .
Thanks John...thought I responded... I ended up wiring it closed because it is not working correctly. That could be part of the problem for sure.
timing off can also be cause.
Thanks Peanuts!
Any idea when we are getting that T-84 Rebuild video?
It is on the agenda, but I am trying to get the Weasel hull finished first. I will try to get it filmed in September. In the meantime, give a call if you have any specific questions...855-339-0382 or send an email to sales@portrayal.com. Happy to help if I can.
Patrick, Glad you got the temps down. Hope they stay that way. Your idea of Flushing that system, seems almost necessary. If it’s sludgy in the engine and some tubes in the radiator, it will just get worse and be a constant problem. A good radiator shop should be able to tell you the best flush to use - haha.
You must be pretty tall. You just barely fit in the Jeep drivers seat. Maybe you need a couple extra seat mounting holes. I mean it’s your Jeep right?! I’m small 5’7” and was sought after for flying the OH6. 500MD and Kiowa (OH58) - haha.
Yes, back in the earlier cars I had trouble seeing over the high rounded cluster pad of the dash, but looked between it and the humongous steering wheel. Haha. Maybe that’s why I like motorcycles.
I am kinda big for a G503...but as long as I don't pack too much on around my mid section, I can squeeze in :-). Otherwise, I will need to be modifying that seat!
My radiator guy says I will am 50/50 on a flush...may make things worse but should make it better. I am going to use CLR on it - run it up to temp, let it sit for a couple of hours and then flush it several times. I am then going to pull the radiator and flush it by itself a few times and repaint the tanks to make it look better.
I am jealous of all that rotary time...although you know those things don't really fly, right?
Portrayal Press You starch wing guys just hate needing a runway - haha.
Yes, I know, we beat the air into submission. Sometimes it fights back though - ouch.
@@MRrwmac You are right about the runway thing. One of my neighbors had an R22 and was a CFI - he had a little helipad on his farm. I tried to get him to give me some dual but he wouldn't do it - was about to retire from United and just did not want the commitment. Would have been fun :-)
👍 👍 👍
Great
Thanks Eddie!
Wow...all so familiar. After soooo much work on my 46 (so much was wrong) it now runs at 180 with a 165 thermostat. Temp heads up hill to 190/200 on long uphill grades then drops back to 180 at the top or on the flats. I am curious.....what is the small hole you drilled in thermostat? I did not do that (I used a modern thermostat like you).
Good stuff. I know a lot of people who have jeeps that are always running closer to 200. Not that hot, but still too hot in my opinion.
The original bellows style thermostat has a small (probably 1/16") hole in the valve plate . From what I have read, the hole is there to allow the pressure to equalize after you shut the engine down and then the coolant temperature in the block rises before normalizing. Supposedly you can get an "air bubble" in the system without the vent hole that prevents flows and causes it to overheat. I have no idea whether this is correct (sounds a little suspect) or just a wive's tale, but I drilled more like 1/4" (because it was handy and the other thermostat was installed so I did not know the size). I can't see how it would hurt except in the coldest of temperatures....
20:00 good grief! turn the jug around. How do people not know how to pour liquids?
You run antifreeze to avoid freezing but also for anti corrosive protection and to lubricate the water pump
Correction my keep.
Part number for thermostat? Good timing, was about to buy a repro at what? Double the cost?
Sorry about that....forgot to add. Carquest: 13356
Yep, as my wife would say; if it an’t broke don’t fix it.
Is the wining noise from the gearbox normal on these war jeeps?
Yes ….I did reset the differentials so the noise may have been a little more pronounced when I first put it back on the road but they all have this whine.👍🏻
@@Portrayalpress thanks! 👍
Engine expansion plugs water pass ways need steam cleaning thick Harding mud clay internal block all old jeep engines has that problem my keep runs 120 temperature normal.
Correction, jeep
not keep.
@@joe3973 Agreed! These blocks need to be cleaned completely if you want them to run nice and cool. Thanks for your response!