Get 15% off your Carly purchase with code "LonestarHawaiian" (auto-applied) until February 28th when you click: bit.ly/Carly_LonestarHawaiian Carly's scanner and free version of the app with standard OBD features are compatible with cars that have an OBD2 port. To see if Carly's advanced features - like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics - should work with your car, make sure to check out their website. To access these additional features, you'll need to get their yearly license. Big thank you to Carly for sponsoring the video!
yes, for looks it should be 24" for such a massive building. However, if a 16" spacing covers all the nails (if you consistency nailed in such a way) then I would go for 16" as it makes the whole thing a little more long-lasting and the battens would be less 'decorative only'
Back in the seventies we put the battens 16 on center to use the studs to secure to and to cover the screws. If you go 24 on center the battens in the field in the center of the panels will not have a stud to nail into.
Hearing you talk about Velcro so you can keep your tape with you, while wearing your top belt backwards, where the tape pocket could be right there is hysterical.... An I love it.
24" on center will fit that building size perfectly. The base flashing is absolutely a necessity. taped along the top with all seams caulked together with a noncuring butyl sealant. No silicones...they are for beauty not longevity. Builders skip the flashing beacause it save a few hundred dollars . Multiply that by 100's of buildings and the ceo/owner can buy another house on the beach. You are doing a great job.
South Texas here with a 3 yr old new construction hardie board & Texas Limestone house. Cover every single nail with the 16 on center. I have spent tooo many hours fixing nails that have worked out and recaulking seems. Do not cheap out when you do the caulking. Big Stretch or something similar. Good paint! Invest in a sprayer as year one they hard to respect the whole house again after fixing pops.
16" because: 1. Looks a bit more classy, less barn like. 2. Closer spacing makes the surface look more dimensional, like your roof and brick, and less like big flat panels with boards stuck on top. Note that no matter how big the house is, the bricks are all the same size so I would not size up my spacing just because it's a big area 3. Covers all the nails with your 16"OC framing.
You have to understand he’s building a shop on video. This is his content he’s showing his audience every step of the way. It’s great content and he’s trying to be consistent with his videos for the algorithm on RUclips.
@ absolutely I get it. If I had a project like this and I legit could not pay a professional to do this for me I’d consider the same thing myself, but every time a new video comes out with him doing the next major task mostly by himself, I know myself, and I would have some buddies over helping me or something. No way I’d be trying to tackle some of these tasks alone like this but I respect the hustle.
Your building is looking good. When painting galvanized steel clean it with white vinegar and prime with a water Base primer. then you can cover with oil base top coat. any oil base on direct to galvanized will trigger the galva salt and reject the paint over time.
24" spacing for sure since the building is so large! Your doing a fantastic job bud and to this mainly by yourself is amazing! If it's in the budget I highly recommend you spray foam the interior, it maybe a little expensive upfront but if you plan on staying in the house for any length of time you'll save big time over the long haul.
Here you are generalizing every contractor 🤣 There are many contractors out there who've built their business on quality work. Most people just go with the cheapest bid and expect skyscraper results.😆😆
No he right there are plenty of people who do good quality but very few who build good products Ex if you put in a block retaining wall and it’s perfectly straight and well structured but you stand by an watch while the general or another sub build or pave ect in the no compaction zone of the wall that wall is now junk and your just as bad as them if you don’t do something because your watching the customer get shafted so it’s not your responsibility to fix something that’s not structurally sound Buildings are ecosystem made up of engineered/architectural systems nothing a trade does exists in a vacuum it effects everything but nobody today has the skills to do other trades jobs or wants to actually take responsibility and build well rounded systems until that changes you can have the best craftsmanship skill on the site but if what you do or what another trade does hurts that system it screws over the customer
@@Doubie. If you are building anything. You hire a quality, and well known contractor. A good contractor is established with these different crews, and plans around it. There are absoutely so many great General contractors - but once again it cost for a good contractor, which people dont want to pay the upfront cost for. But for many the bear the cost down the road.
@@Dylan69 here you are getting butthurt when someone talks about the majority. Does that mean ALL?? Every single industry is greatly lacking in pride of their work. They show up to get a paycheck and don’t give a damn if they are doing it correct. I don’t produce poor quality work, so this statement doesn’t get me emotional. Unlike you. You feeling attacked? Why? You on the fence on whether you produce quality work?
@ No one is filed with anger besides you. Sounds like you even question the quality of your own work. Its alright. Watch a couple more RUclips videos buddy
Hey state uses road salt do a quickly rustproofing on your sprinter those cars are known for rusting fast plus if you choose to paint the plastic bits same colour as your van put some rust prevention under the clips. Have to say cool looking shop you will have 😊
I am so happy you started in the middle on the gable end. There is nothing worse, visually, than a batten falling off center at the peak. As far as the spacing of the battens, based on the size of the building, my opinion is 24" OC for the spacing. 16" OC would look too busy.
24” because it will look better because the shop is so big and if your on a budget, it would help you because on a 16” center, you would use twice as much wood to cover the seams on the siding itself. If it don’t look right when you’re done with the siding, you can always add another slat on the side at 16” at a later time down the road when your budget looks better!
I agree with this comment, the 3/5 of the middle being the 16” and then the ends at the higher would add some cool visual appeals, but it’s your project, either way will be awesome
You first have to figure out where your joints are going to land. Which ever way you go you have to figure out what generates less waste. Good luck. Love the channel.
I feel you. I rarely get anyone in the "industry" to call me back or answer my calls. So I get my supplies from HD or Lowe's 90% of the time. I would rather get supplies through a supply house (some of which are local), but I guess business too is good for those guys--they don't want mine apparently.
Remember to put metal flashing on top of every sheet of Hardie. Also, you need to trim out the windows and doors first. Then, install all the head flashing and then Hardie sheets. Otherwise, you'll run into waterproofing issues later, and the trim around the windows will be too thick.
16”. I always do the pro desk and have them do an estimate. I have been supprisd when they come back with a price. Also let them know your are waiting for a quote from the other guys. 😉
One thing I would recommend. Screw a 2x4 under you horizontal flashing to support the weight of you siding. Better than accidentally damaged the flashing.
Thank you for being responsible by using PPE when cutting those boards & for noting the importance in doing so. I worked a campus maintenance gig while I earned my undergraduate. It was essentially a rotating apprenticeship & eventually I spent a couple months helping demo & remodel bathrooms with a mason named Mark. He was a few years younger than my parents, but looked at least a decade older. We meshed well primarily for our mutual taste in music. Unfortunately, Mark’s respiratory system was failing him because of breathing in particulates while cutting tile, backer, etc. spanning his career. It had also caused him significant complications to his skin. I don’t know details of his condition but it’s fair to assume he was suffering from silicosis. He taught me a lot of useful tricks, but absolutely forbade me from ever cutting tile because he didn’t want me - or honestly anyone else - to be exposed to the dust regardless of PPE, (which he dutifully wore in every occasion in my time spent assisting). He passed a few years later at the age of 58.
Both look good, what is most popular in the neighborhood? Both look good but 16 on center covering nails would likely be my choice, I would not want to fill or cover the exposed heads. That’s the suggestion from “Almost Professional Construction” to “Mo Betha”. We are also “RT’s Grill & Garage - Burgers and fries, duct tape and zip ties “. Have fun with the brick, once you get a rhythm it goes quick. Nice work!
Aloha i haven't personally used it but ive heard that hardy board isn't so hardy & starts deteriorating real bad if you don't keep it painted every few years, good luck. I would've went with a more traditional siding. The gable ends you definitely need a synthetic/composite cedar shake siding. That will help break up the long runs of board & batton.
For what it's worth, my experience with Hardy has been fantastic even though I hate putting the stuff up compared to wood. It I built in 8x15 ft shed with it. Didn't paint it for almost 2 years. Not a bit of deterioration. It's now been up for another couple of years with one thin coat of sprayed on paint. Looks fantastic!. Hardie facia on my house is 20 years old. No rot.
Great job. The only thing I saw was you typically start the siding at the center and work towards the corners. This will make all your battens layout symmetrically down the side.
ive always done batons over studs to hide nail holes, so if you framed 16 oc then that is baton spacing. you can do 24 but your not covering your 16/32 nail holes then. granted you dont technically have to nail into studs with paslode tetragrip but with the osb sheathing you used i would rely on nailing into studs for sure.
Milwaukee dust extractor with your circular saw when cutting that material. Would something like a drywall lift help your shoulder? Yep, the pro desk at the home stores.
The end dam keeps the water from getting behind the hardi board and pool up at the bottom of the wall, window, or another piece of flashing. Plus it would have been the right thing to use the flashing tape on top of the stainless flashing. All of this may seem like overbuilding but it’s worth it to keep from having to repair water damage later on
24" on center for board batten seems like a good scale here. Always great to visualize. I did 16" on my cabin, but it's only 900 sq/ft. 24" seems good here.
Id probably go for 24's. 16's might look a little busy with the brick. 24's makes for Mo work covering up the nails but it will be Mo Better. Great job.
Love the shop and enjoy your channel very much. I have a question about wheel and tires for a 2019 Z71 1500 Silverado. I am thinking about installing a 6” BDS lift with Fox 2.5 coil overs. My truck has 20” wheels and I plan to do lots of forest service roads in north GA and possibly FL. What is your opinion of running 35 x 12.5 x 20 tires for off roading? Can air down to approximately 25psi but I’m still wondering if I would get a better ride with an 18” wheel. What’s your opinion? Thanks Bro 😎
24" on center i think is the way to go. with 16" on center, there would be too much going on even without the trim around the windows. 24" works for the building as it looks too
Your carpenter's belt is on backwards. The tape goes in the middle pocket right about where your pants button. If you use the tools correctly they work better.
16" on center is what I would do. My eye says it makes the shop more proportional. 24" makes my eye think, "what the heck is that" when looking between the windows. My$.02. FYI, Maui is my all-time favorite part of your videos/ projects / possessions .
You have to use a respirator when cutting Hardie Board due to the cement fibers!!! Don’t need the fiber in your lungs! Also there is a special cutter that does not require a respirator when cutting (I don’t think?).
I would do 24 inch spacing because 1) it means less work and 2) the size of the garage can handle the scaling. I hope you're planning to do brick and stone veneer rather than actual stone and brick laying. PS: Your life would have been easier if you had pre-painted the siding before installing. Now you'll need scaffolding to climb up and paint. Its batten, like saying "batten down the hatches" which is actually what that is. Batten down the hatches is an 1800s sailing term where during a storm you fastened down canvas over openings like doorways and hatches with battens - wood strips that are nailed in.
You want to put the batts where the studs are, if your studs are 24” on center then the batts should be the same that way you nail into the studs and cover the nails in the siding
Proportionally, 24" looks better. Also, you have a leather pouch for your tape measure on your toolbelt right above your arse. Move it to the front so you can make better use of it. Otherwise, keep rocking it. It looks great. Is a lift in the plan? You've got room!
personally i would do the limestone up 4 foot all the way around with 24inch spacing on the batons. my brain would not cope with brick on top at the front then brick on the bottom the rest of the way round.
I'd vote 24". You're caulking for days either way. Nail heads are faster to caulk then additional battens. Also agreeing with others that 16" would look busy.
I had the same issue with building supply places around me. They do not want to deal with homeowners building their own stuff, so unless you already had an in, good luck getting a call back from them or favorable pricing lol
Two items for this comment. First you are wearing your tool belt backwards. The clasp goes in the back. The smaller area between the two larger pouches is for your tape. That will help you keep track of it as it is always right there where you need it. Second IMHO 16" on center for the batten boards looks much better.
I had the same thought today. Work on the most inconspicuous areas first and then make my way around 😅 and I’m just building a decent sized chicken coop haha
The what am I caught on and then goes to nail with nothin, ughh Whyyyyyy when he is hangin first piece. We've all been there! Definitely frustrating props to stayin upbeat bout those two minor annoyances cause its real easy to be over it and have a tantrum 😆🤣
16" generally looks better, especially when having the mid wall split. Plus who the heck wants to have to cover those exposed nails if you do 24", not to mention 24" on a shorter wall like that will fatten the look (not sure if that makes sense). Glad you split that back wall to get the center line right. Well done! your drawing or building plan showed what looked like smaller than 16" and again generally 16" just looks better IMOP. 24" always looks like someones trying to save material.
Get 15% off your Carly purchase with code "LonestarHawaiian" (auto-applied) until February 28th when you click: bit.ly/Carly_LonestarHawaiian Carly's scanner and free version of the app with standard OBD features are compatible with cars that have an OBD2 port. To see if Carly's advanced features - like coding or manufacturer-level diagnostics - should work with your car, make sure to check out their website. To access these additional features, you'll need to get their yearly license. Big thank you to Carly for sponsoring the video!
I would think that painting the siding before you put the strips up would make it easier .
24” because the shop is big.
That was my thought at well... 16" would look a bit busy on that back wall.
24"
I agree 100%. 24" did better with the size and scale and with that oversized door too. Plus it's cheaper, less material, less fasteners, less time.
yes, for looks it should be 24" for such a massive building. However, if a 16" spacing covers all the nails (if you consistency nailed in such a way) then I would go for 16" as it makes the whole thing a little more long-lasting and the battens would be less 'decorative only'
@@orange13 I like your youtube content, Gardening, RV, building 👍 It’s very cool.
24" might look better on the large building, but that's a lot of nails to cover, so 16" has its pluses also.
I'm going to be painting forever 🤣
Spraying should help out. @@LonestarHawaiian
Back in the seventies we put the battens 16 on center to use the studs to secure to and to cover the screws. If you go 24 on center the battens in the field in the center of the panels will not have a stud to nail into.
24” looks best for that size structure IMO. You doing nice work!
Definitely 24. 16 is too busy- too much visual distraction on the side off the building. Looks fantastic!
Thanks for watching! I'm liking the 24" right now as well.
Hearing you talk about Velcro so you can keep your tape with you, while wearing your top belt backwards, where the tape pocket could be right there is hysterical.... An I love it.
I caught that too & had a giggle
🤣 the tape measurer get stuck in that pocket... could also be the fact it's a Harbor Freight tool belt (worn backwards)
24" the building is too big for the 16" IMO
I'm leaning 24" spacing as well...
24" on center will fit that building size perfectly. The base flashing is absolutely a necessity. taped along the top with all seams caulked together with a noncuring butyl sealant. No silicones...they are for beauty not longevity. Builders skip the flashing beacause it save a few hundred dollars . Multiply that by 100's of buildings and the ceo/owner can buy another house on the beach. You are doing a great job.
South Texas here with a 3 yr old new construction hardie board & Texas Limestone house. Cover every single nail with the 16 on center. I have spent tooo many hours fixing nails that have worked out and recaulking seems. Do not cheap out when you do the caulking. Big Stretch or something similar. Good paint! Invest in a sprayer as year one they hard to respect the whole house again after fixing pops.
I've heard good things about Big Stretch...I think that's what I'm going to go with. Thanks for watching!
16" because:
1. Looks a bit more classy, less barn like.
2. Closer spacing makes the surface look more dimensional, like your roof and brick, and less like big flat panels with boards stuck on top. Note that no matter how big the house is, the bricks are all the same size so I would not size up my spacing just because it's a big area
3. Covers all the nails with your 16"OC framing.
What @bandvidguy said, I started to type then I went and read some other comments.
Yeah covering the nails is key here. 24” would probably look better, but 16 would be better to cover nail holes and protect building longer.
Dude you’re way more resilient than I would ever be building this shop. I admire your determination.
You have to understand he’s building a shop on video. This is his content he’s showing his audience every step of the way. It’s great content and he’s trying to be consistent with his videos for the algorithm on RUclips.
@ absolutely I get it. If I had a project like this and I legit could not pay a professional to do this for me I’d consider the same thing myself, but every time a new video comes out with him doing the next major task mostly by himself, I know myself, and I would have some buddies over helping me or something. No way I’d be trying to tackle some of these tasks alone like this but I respect the hustle.
Thanks for watching!
Your building is looking good. When painting galvanized steel clean it with white vinegar and prime with a water Base primer. then you can cover with oil base top coat. any oil base on direct to galvanized will trigger the galva salt and reject the paint over time.
Great to know. Thanks for the info!
Or just use stainless steal
24", no doubt! Great work and progress...keep it up.
I have mad respect for DIYing your building's, "hardy-board-siding"!
I vote for 24-inch on center for the batten boards.
Well done, Sir!
16 on center. Covers the nails and in my opinion, looks more custom. Shows that you didn’t cheap out the build for possible resale down the road.
Not going to question anything bro. You’re doing an amazing job! Keep up the good work and stay safe!
Hey, if you've seen RR do it, your doing right. That guy is so pedantic about doing things spot on he is the best I've seen 👌🇦🇺
Great job man. Amazing shop. If it was me, I would only do the 48” seams with batten. Less material and would look good as the shop is big.
24" spacing for sure since the building is so large! Your doing a fantastic job bud and to this mainly by yourself is amazing! If it's in the budget I highly recommend you spray foam the interior, it maybe a little expensive upfront but if you plan on staying in the house for any length of time you'll save big time over the long haul.
16” on center. Cover nails holes and looks more intentional, especially with the smaller brick. Don’t forget the big stretch caulk.
New builders quality, is nonexistent. You’re doing MUCH Better
Here you are generalizing every contractor 🤣 There are many contractors out there who've built their business on quality work.
Most people just go with the cheapest bid and expect skyscraper results.😆😆
No he right there are plenty of people who do good quality but very few who build good products
Ex if you put in a block retaining wall and it’s perfectly straight and well structured but you stand by an watch while the general or another sub build or pave ect in the no compaction zone of the wall that wall is now junk and your just as bad as them if you don’t do something because your watching the customer get shafted so it’s not your responsibility to fix something that’s not structurally sound
Buildings are ecosystem made up of engineered/architectural systems nothing a trade does exists in a vacuum it effects everything but nobody today has the skills to do other trades jobs or wants to actually take responsibility and build well rounded systems until that changes you can have the best craftsmanship skill on the site but if what you do or what another trade does hurts that system it screws over the customer
@@Doubie. If you are building anything. You hire a quality, and well known contractor.
A good contractor is established with these different crews, and plans around it.
There are absoutely so many great General contractors - but once again it cost for a good contractor, which people dont want to pay the upfront cost for. But for many the bear the cost down the road.
@@Dylan69 here you are getting butthurt when someone talks about the majority. Does that mean ALL??
Every single industry is greatly lacking in pride of their work. They show up to get a paycheck and don’t give a damn if they are doing it correct.
I don’t produce poor quality work, so this statement doesn’t get me emotional. Unlike you.
You feeling attacked? Why? You on the fence on whether you produce quality work?
@ No one is filed with anger besides you.
Sounds like you even question the quality of your own work. Its alright. Watch a couple more RUclips videos buddy
Hey state uses road salt do a quickly rustproofing on your sprinter those cars are known for rusting fast plus if you choose to paint the plastic bits same colour as your van put some rust prevention under the clips. Have to say cool looking shop you will have 😊
I am so happy you started in the middle on the gable end. There is nothing worse, visually, than a batten falling off center at the peak. As far as the spacing of the battens, based on the size of the building, my opinion is 24" OC for the spacing. 16" OC would look too busy.
Channel is getting better and better. Love it
i am fricken just loving this whole ass build . more more more please ❤
Mmmmmm I love watching ass builds
There is a pocket on the back of the tool belt for your tape measure lol. I do the same thing all the time though!
Good work on the shop build
24” because it will look better because the shop is so big and if your on a budget, it would help you because on a 16” center, you would use twice as much wood to cover the seams on the siding itself. If it don’t look right when you’re done with the siding, you can always add another slat on the side at 16” at a later time down the road when your budget looks better!
16” on sides because of the window spacing and 24” on the ends
I agree with this comment, the 3/5 of the middle being the 16” and then the ends at the higher would add some cool visual appeals, but it’s your project, either way will be awesome
That's a cool thought. I'll have to toss up some tape to see what that looks like
You first have to figure out where your joints are going to land. Which ever way you go you have to figure out what generates less waste. Good luck. Love the channel.
I feel you. I rarely get anyone in the "industry" to call me back or answer my calls. So I get my supplies from HD or Lowe's 90% of the time. I would rather get supplies through a supply house (some of which are local), but I guess business too is good for those guys--they don't want mine apparently.
24" spacing is what I think will look the best. Great job so far!
Remember to put metal flashing on top of every sheet of Hardie. Also, you need to trim out the windows and doors first. Then, install all the head flashing and then Hardie sheets. Otherwise, you'll run into waterproofing issues later, and the trim around the windows will be too thick.
16”. I always do the pro desk and have them do an estimate. I have been supprisd when they come back with a price. Also let them know your are waiting for a quote from the other guys. 😉
24” everything BIG in Texas my friend! Love your videos btw your a true inspiration for me and what I’ve got going, thx
One thing I would recommend. Screw a 2x4 under you horizontal flashing to support the weight of you siding. Better than accidentally damaged the flashing.
❤ RR Buildings!
Thank you for being responsible by using PPE when cutting those boards & for noting the importance in doing so.
I worked a campus maintenance gig while I earned my undergraduate. It was essentially a rotating apprenticeship & eventually I spent a couple months helping demo & remodel bathrooms with a mason named Mark.
He was a few years younger than my parents, but looked at least a decade older. We meshed well primarily for our mutual taste in music. Unfortunately, Mark’s respiratory system was failing him because of breathing in particulates while cutting tile, backer, etc. spanning his career. It had also caused him significant complications to his skin. I don’t know details of his condition but it’s fair to assume he was suffering from silicosis.
He taught me a lot of useful tricks, but absolutely forbade me from ever cutting tile because he didn’t want me - or honestly anyone else - to be exposed to the dust regardless of PPE, (which he dutifully wore in every occasion in my time spent assisting).
He passed a few years later at the age of 58.
Both look good, what is most popular in the neighborhood? Both look good but 16 on center covering nails would likely be my choice, I would not want to fill or cover the exposed heads. That’s the suggestion from “Almost Professional Construction” to “Mo Betha”. We are also “RT’s Grill & Garage - Burgers and fries, duct tape and zip ties “. Have fun with the brick, once you get a rhythm it goes quick. Nice work!
16" on center. Makes the shop look taller.
Aloha i haven't personally used it but ive heard that hardy board isn't so hardy & starts deteriorating real bad if you don't keep it painted every few years, good luck. I would've went with a more traditional siding. The gable ends you definitely need a synthetic/composite cedar shake siding. That will help break up the long runs of board & batton.
For what it's worth, my experience with Hardy has been fantastic even though I hate putting the stuff up compared to wood. It I built in 8x15 ft shed with it. Didn't paint it for almost 2 years. Not a bit of deterioration. It's now been up for another couple of years with one thin coat of sprayed on paint. Looks fantastic!. Hardie facia on my house is 20 years old. No rot.
Great job. The only thing I saw was you typically start the siding at the center and work towards the corners. This will make all your battens layout symmetrically down the side.
Well, I spoke to soon. You did exactly that on the short sides. Seems it worked out ok on the long sides due to the length of those sides.
ive always done batons over studs to hide nail holes, so if you framed 16 oc then that is baton spacing. you can do 24 but your not covering your 16/32 nail holes then. granted you dont technically have to nail into studs with paslode tetragrip but with the osb sheathing you used i would rely on nailing into studs for sure.
Bro its looking good, side note you might want to get the kreg rip cut extension makes repetitive cuts a a breeze.
Milwaukee dust extractor with your circular saw when cutting that material. Would something like a drywall lift help your shoulder? Yep, the pro desk at the home stores.
One thing to consider prior to choosing spacing on batons.
You need to caulk all seems, joints on all sides of them.
I say 24” , Wife says 16”
Thank you for shopping at Lowe’s!!!
The end dam keeps the water from getting behind the hardi board and pool up at the bottom of the wall, window, or another piece of flashing. Plus it would have been the right thing to use the flashing tape on top of the stainless flashing. All of this may seem like overbuilding but it’s worth it to keep from having to repair water damage later on
24" on center for board batten seems like a good scale here. Always great to visualize. I did 16" on my cabin, but it's only 900 sq/ft. 24" seems good here.
16-24 either one that is the most economical they will both look good. RR builders love that channel 👍👍
wall studs are 16" on center so batts should be the same to have stronger nailing and holding of the sheats.
24" on center has my vote.
Id probably go for 24's. 16's might look a little busy with the brick. 24's makes for Mo work covering up the nails but it will be Mo Better. Great job.
Love the shop and enjoy your channel very much. I have a question about wheel and tires for a 2019 Z71 1500 Silverado.
I am thinking about installing a 6” BDS lift with Fox 2.5 coil overs. My truck has 20” wheels and I plan to do lots of forest service roads in north GA and possibly FL.
What is your opinion of running 35 x 12.5 x 20 tires for off roading? Can air down to approximately 25psi but I’m still wondering if I would get a better ride with an 18” wheel.
What’s your opinion?
Thanks Bro 😎
24" on center i think is the way to go. with 16" on center, there would be too much going on even without the trim around the windows. 24" works for the building as it looks too
Your carpenter's belt is on backwards. The tape goes in the middle pocket right about where your pants button. If you use the tools correctly they work better.
R&R is awesome. And Kyle knows how to build a building.
I have no construction experience but like the look of the 24" spacing.
16" on center is what I would do. My eye says it makes the shop more proportional. 24" makes my eye think, "what the heck is that" when looking between the windows. My$.02.
FYI, Maui is my all-time favorite part of your videos/ projects / possessions .
You have to use a respirator when cutting Hardie Board due to the cement fibers!!! Don’t need the fiber in your lungs! Also there is a special cutter that does not require a respirator when cutting (I don’t think?).
Do you have a upc or link for the hardie board you bought from Lowe’s.
I would do 24 inch spacing because 1) it means less work and 2) the size of the garage can handle the scaling.
I hope you're planning to do brick and stone veneer rather than actual stone and brick laying.
PS: Your life would have been easier if you had pre-painted the siding before installing. Now you'll need scaffolding to climb up and paint.
Its batten, like saying "batten down the hatches" which is actually what that is. Batten down the hatches is an 1800s sailing term where during a storm you fastened down canvas over openings like doorways and hatches with battens - wood strips that are nailed in.
You want to put the batts where the studs are, if your studs are 24” on center then the batts should be the same that way you nail into the studs and cover the nails in the siding
I been following this build. I think 16 on center. More would look better.
24" OC is my vote.
In my view, 24" is the sweet spot for your shop.
Proportionally, 24" looks better. Also, you have a leather pouch for your tape measure on your toolbelt right above your arse. Move it to the front so you can make better use of it. Otherwise, keep rocking it. It looks great. Is a lift in the plan? You've got room!
personally i would do the limestone up 4 foot all the way around with 24inch spacing on the batons. my brain would not cope with brick on top at the front then brick on the bottom the rest of the way round.
Either would look good. That's the way the home is designed so I'm planning on matching it. Thanks for watching!
Most definitely 24 on center looks better and defined. keep up the videos and i also enjoy rr builders videos too.
24 seems like the move with a building that size.
I'd do 24 the spacing seems much more appealing but I Def see how covering all the nails is a bunch of extra work
Use 1×2 hardi trim
I say 24" as it is a big structure. As always, love the content. Out from Makaha!
Looks amazing!
24inch for sure 20:44
Damn, lifting those sheets up by yourself. You are a G.
24” looks good
awesome work
Clopay only sells through distributers. 24" battens will look like you are skimping.
16” on center so you can hit studs with your nails through the battens. Every other one otherwise will just be through the siding and sheathing
Zip tape the metal flashing that was painted. This will direct water out and not behind masonry.
I'd vote 24". You're caulking for days either way. Nail heads are faster to caulk then additional battens. Also agreeing with others that 16" would look busy.
Go with the 24
16. Match it to what is in the neighborhood
I had the same issue with building supply places around me. They do not want to deal with homeowners building their own stuff, so unless you already had an in, good luck getting a call back from them or favorable pricing lol
Two items for this comment. First you are wearing your tool belt backwards. The clasp goes in the back. The smaller area between the two larger pouches is for your tape. That will help you keep track of it as it is always right there where you need it. Second IMHO 16" on center for the batten boards looks much better.
I had the same thought today. Work on the most inconspicuous areas first and then make my way around 😅 and I’m just building a decent sized chicken coop haha
24" due to the size of the building, 16" I think would look like you have them at 12" because there would be so many.
The what am I caught on and then goes to nail with nothin, ughh Whyyyyyy when he is hangin first piece. We've all been there! Definitely frustrating props to stayin upbeat bout those two minor annoyances cause its real easy to be over it and have a tantrum 😆🤣
24 on center looks best 👌
16" OC
If that stuff is brittle then when the building settle over time would that crack then
24". 16 would look like a freaking jail cell lol. Building is way too big for 16"
jail cell 🤣🤣🤣
16" on center, you won't have studs on some of the bats & you need a stud to nail into to hold the bats securely.
24 inch definitely fits the shop better. The amount of open flat space would look way to busy with 16.
24” all the way
16" generally looks better, especially when having the mid wall split. Plus who the heck wants to have to cover those exposed nails if you do 24", not to mention 24" on a shorter wall like that will fatten the look (not sure if that makes sense). Glad you split that back wall to get the center line right. Well done! your drawing or building plan showed what looked like smaller than 16" and again generally 16" just looks better IMOP. 24" always looks like someones trying to save material.
Do 24” but you needed a reason for the siding first and the answer is paint will be quicker to do now. Spray it
Already participated in the Adaxum presale, and I’m feeling pretty good about the future of ADX. Time to get in while the price is still low!
24 oc, looks the part!!
You’re killing it man. 24 inch looks much better in my opinion