DIY THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT FORD 4.2L V6 F150 2002
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Thought I would combine 2 of my favorite things, saving money by DIY and making videos. Hopefully this can help somebody out. If this was helpful, please subscribe to my channel.
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Love your video
I couldn’t have done this without your video. Thanks
Thanks
Looked daunting till i watched this then i took it on. Took me an hour and 40 minutes following your instructions and cutting a gasket.. I didn't remove the upper hose, no need to, found enough clearance by just removing the one. And drain plug is locate right hand bottom of radiator, but only need to remove some coolant. The only other thing is its good to clean the area with high pressure water blaster.
You rock bro !!! This was a great video. Fixing my dads truck ,my he RIP. We Lost him Oct 1 2021, and i vowed to keep up the maintenance on it for him. Love you dad 😪
I've been on the same mission since 2012. 🫡2007 F-150 single cab w/ 6 inch lift
Thsnksss🎉
thanky!
Just to be clear i don't know if you are going to read this comment at all but i had done this type of job on this particular vehicle and we had to go to a real mechanic for reference and everything from the beginning of this video is correct except the part of how to mount the new thermostat it seem you must mount the thermostat on hose housing and gasket over thermostat and then to the block if not done this way and done your way like in the video it could otherwise cause a leak or it would sees out or not work properly causing engine overheating
Hi, excellent video. I have a 2008 Ford F-150 XL Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 4.2L V6, what is the right Thermostat.. 160, 170, 180 or 195 degrees farenheit for it?
I don't know.
I did mine and it was an epic failure. Took me 2 hours with 3 trips back and forth to auto parts store, first for gasket, then sealant then for screws that keeps dropping into Bermuda Triangle. As soon as I tilt it in for installation it seems to tilt a bit too far and ended up falling off then having to start again and again and again but after installation i realized it’s leaking so I have to start all over again but this time I’m gonna make sure the sealant is a bit firm before installing it.
Thanks for the video.
I feel you. This was the 2nd time I had to do it.
Yes you helped an old lady fix her truck-thank you
Had to replace the thermostat on my 2005 f150 with the 4.2 v6. This video was a great memory refresher since I hadn't done this for so many years. Thank you.
Thanks this made it easier!! FORT WORTH TEXAS
Great video straight and simple thanks I’ll be doing mine tomorrow
You must have a great feel for exactly where the thermostat has to go if you put the thermostat in first. I tried this method on my ‘02 4.2 today and by following this video, I ended up having a massive leak on the bottom part of where it bolts into the engine block. Upon inspection, what had happened was, the thermostat (although perfectly fitted inside the hole on the block) did not match up entirely with the metal end of the hose that bolts it shut. Causing a slight crack that I couldn’t see due to Ford’s wonderful engineering. Had to take everything back apart, buy a new gasket, more antifreeze to replace the 2 gallons that leaked out, and also about 2 hours of my time. Used the tack sealant to hold the thermostat in place on the metal end of the hose first. Once it dried enough to stay in place, I put the new gasket on and bolted it on. No leaks now. Nothing wrong with your video but beginners who don’t know the exact spot it’s suppose to go, would be much better off by installing the thermostat into the metal boot rather than the engine block. It’ll possibly save them about $60 and 2 hours of frustrating time.
Sorry my method didn't for you. It seemed to work for everybody else.
I learned this the hard way 50 years ago. I even cracked the thermostat housing when re-installing it with the bolts. So now I use very small dabs of silicone seal to hold the thermostat in its housing (and let it solidify for an hour) before re-installing.
I tried either methods and they were very frustrating, thermostat into a he engine block first didn’t work coz the gasket opening is not as wide as the thermostat rim, so thermostat should go into the elbow hose first the gasket with sealant after before installing. Better to let it dry and secure in the metal elbow hose first or else it keeps falling off and the compromised position of the whole thing is another headache. With the 2 AC hoses in the way.
The throttle body could use a cleaning as well. Thanks for the video!
Mil gracias, me ayudo muchisimo. Thank You!!
Thanks for the vid! I will attempt this repair soon, is there a torque for the 8mm bolts when the housing goes back onto the engine body? Thanks.
8 ft/lb. According to a Google search.
@@XRDanL Thanks. Do you have to drain the coolant beforehand?
@@nateo6806 nah, just replace the coolant you lose and bleed the system.
@@XRDanL8 ft lbs ok what did you use to tighten it up to 8 foot lbs
torque wrench@@Stacey-i4m
So why did you decide to replace the thermostat what indicators did you see to lead you to believe this was the issue?
Process of elimination. I had no heat. Thought maybe it was stuck open. Turned out to be a stopped up heater core.
Don't think I could've done this job without you. Thanks so much for the help!
Thank you very much. This confirmed in my mind that it's way more efficient for me to pay someone to do this for me.
Where is the coolant temperature sensor located? It's usually next to the thermostat but not on this engine.
I don't know.
So the top piece that the smaller hose unplugged from at the top of the housing, what is that called? I ask because I have coolant spurting out the back side of that
Xrd u didn't mention what u removed at 4:05 and the direction of how the thermostat goes when u removed it.i think i put my thermostat wrong on my truck
That was a gasket at 4:05. Sorry, I figured everyone would just put it back like it came out. If your truck is heating and cooling ok I wouldn't worry about it.
Great Job You hepled me a lot, do 1 replacing t Water pump on same engine, it will help a lot people there's not to many to watch Thnk U
I will do one when the water pump goes out. Water pump is still fine with more than 178,000 miles on it.
How often 2 change thermo st. Every 10yrs or so to be safer.???
I don't change it till there's a problem. It's coming up on 10 years on this repair.
Just did a thermostat change on my 2001 4.2 liter ford. Not 100% sure, but I think the thermostat goes in the housing first with the gasket over it, then into the block. It seemed to fit great this way. I used an OEM thermostat with an adhesive gasket holding the thermostat in the housing.
That is correct. I put my T-stat in the housing, with gasket holding it in place with adhesive. Once the adhesive was about 80% set I installed the whole thing easily by taking my time carefully (on the 3rd attempt LOL.)
The glued gasket will hold the thermostat in place as you reinsert the housing . taking the housing all the way off helps in cleaning and holdiing the thermostat in place . draining the radiator isnt necessary . only a waste of antifreeze
Did you use a gasket from the dealership or an after market gasket ?
Aftermarket
The truck heats up and drops in temperature f150 2002 and I already changed the thermostat and water pump and it keeps going up and down???? can you help me
Could be a number of things. Probably best to ask a professional.
How is the truck running now?
Still going strong.
Did you have to let it set up
At first, I was apprehensive about taking on this task. After watching your video, my brother and I started the task together; I ended up finishing on my own. I’m shocked how simple it really was. Thanks a bunch for the pointers.
Do u use the paper and rubber gasket
You did help me.... But I have the same engine but mine is 2003 F150 4.2 And she started to get almost to the H today so I got HoMe and filled her up with water because she was almost dry...... maybe I need to check water more in the summertime? She idled for twenty minutes and was running perfect again after I filled the water up.... 264k miles
thanks for the vid. worked perfectly for a ford e150 4.2L van i was working on
Did you let the sealant dry before the first start and if so how long did you let it sit before you cranked it up I just got done with mine all it has now is fluid I haven’t cranked it yet but I will tomorrow
When pulling the thermostat housing off, it appeared that an o-ring was pulled out and discarded. There was no comment on whether it was part of the old original thermostat and if the new replacement thermostat had one. My Haynes owner's manual says there are two types of thermostats, one with a conventional paper gasket and one with a rubber 0-ring gasket. More info on this would have been useful.
Also, when you installed the new gasket, you hid it from view with your hands. I would like to have seen the orientation of the old and new thermostats because there is sometimes a tab and notch, sometimes not.
Anyway, thanks for the video. Now I know how to get to it.
There was no o ring and the paper gasket was discussed.
OK. I wasn't sure if you used the paper gasket because there was no o-ring, or it had an o-ring and discarded it. Thanks for the quick reply. My 2002 with 114K miles on it has a leak from the original thermostat and I'm waiting for my OEM Motorcraft thermostat and gasket to arrive. I've had bad experiences with aftermarket gaskets on Honda's and Nissan's in the past. Your video is extremely helpful.
Thank you for making the video. I was getting fustrated but saw what i was doing wrong. Thanks again
I have a 2005 f150 4.2L. I've looked everywhere for an answer. Problem is that the gauge goes to hot after 20 minutes of driving. It does not actually over heat. Changed cylinder head temperature sensor, thermostat, instrument cluster. Has no leaks no air in coolant system. I'm not sure if this model has a coolant temperature sensor.
XRDanL. Thanks, man. This helped my parents out a lot. They have a 200 Ford F150 Ext Cab with a 4.2L V6. Now, can you do a video about setting your engine's "timing"?
Don't know how.
+Okie Rider timing gun.. sure its somewhere
+Richard English connot set timing on a non distributer(computer controlled) engine its done thru the computer
What do those first two hoses you disconnected ( prior to the thermostat housing removal) go to?
Heater core I believe.
Would you know why my 4.2 is running cold? I was thinking open thermostat. Please help. I drive for an hour and open the radiator Reservoir and barely a hiss. Some heat not much.
Man, thanks for doing this vid. It has saved me a lot of time and frustation. Thanks again!
My Pleasure.
I have to do this job Monday. thanks for the sealant tip. I've never used sealant on a thermostat. never had a leak before but I will use it this time.
Bradley Barton, I used contact cement on both the surfaces; the thermostat and the part where it sits. I let it sit overnight; lo and behold, the contact cement worked like a charm.
What year is this engine. You should have that in the description.
Added to the title. thanks
Good work and thank you.
About to do this now. Have you ever changed the coolant temp sensor? it is supposed to be near the thermostat housing. Or did you notice it down there? Thanks for the video!!!
On my 2001 4.2L V6 there was just a plug near the thermostat housing, the sensor is on the bottom of the engine. I think the sensor your talking about is called a engine cylinder head temperature sensor (advanced auto). It's located on the driver side near exhaust manifold/02 sensor, you will need a 3/4 wrench to get it out. When it's disconnected your oil light will come on and the temp gauge stops working. I changed mine last week because my truck overheats at 75-80+ mph.
Andy Barrows thanks! That was exactly where mine was as well. I finally found a video explaining it had moved there for a few months on the 2000-2001 models. Thanks for responding. It’s not even in the Hayne’s manual... at least as a coolant temp sensor. It should be noted in there that some models aren’t equipped and have the head sensor instead.
@XRDANL
Thank you for making this video. I'm a diy certifed youtube mechanic and this video helped a lot. I appreciate someone who can take the time dealing with video production equipment to help others with a diy video.
I bought a oem motocraft thermostat and a fel-pro gasket at oreily's. Got me an inch-lb torque wrench over at harbour freight.
This is my first thermostat change and the only issue was gettin in there with those 2 air condition lines in the way. Other than that it was farely easy.
🤣🤣💀 he said DIY Certified youtube mechanic.
If you are a certified mechanic why are you saying this is your first time changing a thermostat so i guess you are an armature or a nobb
Excellent video....helped me out. I'll get the thermostat changed correctly now !
Super helpful! Thanks for doing this!
Just got through replacing therm. In 5.4 2003 because engine was running hot........ And still running hot ! Oddly enough truck will idle 15-30 mins never run hot drive down the road 10 mins and 5.4 is running hot again..... Ant suggestions?????
Is it really running hot, or is it a faulty sending unit?
Thank you sir, I will try to do this tomorrow.
super helpful! been looking for a thermostat video for the 4.2 for so long.
one guestion for you, the thermostat i bought has a rubber ring where you put the rvt on it, do i still need to put some on it?
Thank you for the video it was the most helpful and works great. I learned the hard way also because when I put the thermostat on without centering it like you did I had a leak. I also learned that the torque specifications for the bolts are a lie. I broke a bolt luckily it was sticking out so I just replaced it and when I did I noticed how near perfect the alignment of the thermostat and rubber gasket was to the paper gasket that's the way it needs to be done thx again.
My Haynes manual recommends ~70 to 100 in-lbs for the 4.2L V6. You didn't mention how much you tightened yours. What do you recommend?
You saved me from bringing the ford to a shop! For this I am great full . Excellent narration and video.
Really wish I would have watched this first. Lol. Took me three hours and finally used some gutter glue to hold it till i could bolt it down.
1. Remove Top Radiator hose ONLY. (not neccessary to remove an other hoses) And NEVER poke a hose with a screwdriver unless you PLAN on replacing it. The bypass hose is a special molded hose and dealer only part. Leave it alone
2. Remove Thermostat housing -completely loosen two 8mm hex head bolts.You only need a quarter inch ratchet and a 6" extension. Remove housing with bolts in place.
3. There is a recess in the thermostat housing where the lip of the thermostat sits. NOT on the BLOCK side. Install thermostat in thermostat housing first. And DO use the "gorilla snot" yellow sealer. Otherwise the thermostat can -no, will - slip down and prevent a seal.
4. Spring tension hose clamps often leak after you remove/reinstall them. New Worm drive clamps are cheap. And clean all hose nipples and insides of hoses.
+Dennis lukeman Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the comments helped me out a lot.
On this vehicle, is the recess the thermostat fits into part of the actual block or is it its own part? There's a crack and spewing of coolant on mine, but I can't seem to find a name or part number for it, making me think it is unfortunately part of the block itself. To clarify I don't mean the actual water outlet which was removed to gain access to the thermostat, but the section the water outlet bolts onto. Thank you
Thoose bypass hoses suck to replace, just did mine on my 01 f150
@@MrGuardian1942 please let me know what it was. Mine is throwing water out the back of the seemingly non removable side of the housing. Making me think the upper intake part of the block needs replacing.
After watching this I'm wondering if it's a clogged heater core or the thermostat. when I shut off the truck after driving it the top radiator hose is hot and I still blow cold air so I wonder which one it would be.
American made having the same problem with mine no clue what it is I got no heat at all
Could very well be clogged core. Could also be air trapped in it. Could also be the blend door inside the dash.
Don't you have to burp the engine or something after you refill the radiator to get rid of the air pockets?
I never did. Haven't had any problems.
This was super helpful for me. If only you had a video detailing the water pump...That's whats giving me a real pain in the ass.
Will a bad thermostat cause no heat in cab only cold air blows , also how do you determine water pump is bad. Thanks Rick
+R.E. Sturgill Probably a heater core issue. Just had to replace mine. Big bucks to replace unless you can do it yourself or have a buddy that can. Luckily I had a buddy that had a buddy. Still cost me $300. I would try a high pressure flush first. Most shops can do that but won't guarantee the results.
+R.E. Sturgill google backflushing the heater core. water pumps usually leak when they go bad but overheating is also a sign but much less likely. could also be a bad blend door not opening and allowing heat into the truck. feel the heater hoses if one is hot anbd the other isnt probably a clogged core
R.E. S. No heat means no antifreeze or clogged heater core.
Yes, a bad thermostat can "stick" in the open position and cause longer time for the engine to warm up and little or no heat in the winter. I had this problem with a Nissan truck which froze me on my way to the ski slopes. Unfortunately, I used an aftermarket thermostat the first time which only helped a little. Then I spent the extra bucks for an OEM thermostat and I had full heat with quick warm-ups again.
Hello, got a ford aeromax engine detriot serie 60 325350, when a get 70 miles an hour tart spitting oil by the engine exaust item not the pipe, need to know what i is....
Hello,need to know where is located the ECT sensor on Ford F150 v6 4.2L XL, my truck is shaking like a piston failure where there is not failure, please if anybodie know where is let me know.
Plus it seems like there are many different opinions on minor things like my gasket had no adhesive so the gasket maker tip worked great.
i purchased the paper gasket, did you apply that rvt or whatever to both sides of the gasket?
Update; This repair has gone 5 years with no issues. JSYK
Well quite a miracle since they way the thermostat is installed i thought you would have a leak but i assume the thermostat won't be opening and closing quite well so i guess you would need to replace it again in the future or sooner
gone ten years now@@jesusdavidgarciacastroluqu763
Everyone, the thermostat should go into the elbow connected to the hose first, then the gasket over top of the thermostat. you can notice that the housing has an indentation for the thermostat to fall into. Hope this helps someone out. even tho this probably worked cuz of all the sealant that was used.
You are right.
I use several dabs of silicone seal to hold the thermostat in place, and let it solidify before continuing re-installation.
Yep, the jiggler valve on the Stat needs to go into that groove and be clocked at the 11 o clock or 1 o clock position
Absolutely 100% correct this video is incorrect
@@davegaetano7171 lo
The way you explained it didn’t work either
Thank you very much for the video you just help me a lot.
hn .kvvg
hn .kvvg
Thank You!! Great Video, simple and clear, and it convinced me NOT to DIY on my girlfriends truck... old thermostats were far easier to get to. May have saved my girlfriends engine, and my relationship!!
Thanks bro, fixed my 97 F150! For my fix I didn’t have to take off the return or bypass hoses and I installed the new thermostat with sealant around the inside lip of the housing and wiped the seal around the inside bead of the mounting surface, this made it a little easier to install for 97 XLT base model, thanks again hope this info is useful
Thanks, video helped me do my thermostat.... Comment thread as well, thanks for posting this.
the paper gasket has adhesive on it already...and a kind of sandpaper to meet the side facing the block.
I thought he said Post-Covid at first,i was about to say how did he know covid would happen 7 years later? Lol
Thank you !!!!! especially the no leak moment.
Thank you for your video! It really helped me!
Thank you for the great vid. well done good sir....
Tip of the day:
If you have a gasket... You don't need gasket maker, duh.
P. S. Just to be clear, buy the paper gasket and use it.
Thanks for posting! good help.
I discarded the rubber O ring that came with the new thermostat because there is not 1 on the original equipment.
I don't know. Like I said I'm not a professional mechanic. I guess it could be stuck open.
Me puedes dar el deagrama de cómo va puesto el termostatos
I don't have it. Google is your friend.
It is a lot easier if you remove the throttle body.
Overkill.... and simple enough as he did it took me no time to do it
thanks... very useful vid.
What was that second hose you took off connected to?? Looks like a nipple with a nut. Hope someone can answer this for me.
4:35
Gracias pero no se ve en que posición coloca el termostato, su brazo estorba a la vista
thanks XRDanL
Nice tunes
Why not just remove the band for the filter, instead of removing both screw clamps on the intake tube?
Still don't understand why you suggested draining the radiator for this, maybe you should have let somebody else do this. So much about this video is unnecessary. I surfed in looking for information on burping the cooling system, which I found just before this video.
Not a professional mechanic. Sorry I didn't do it like you would have. BTW where is your video showing how you would have done it?
@@XRDanL yeah now I know you're just an idiot.
should never use a metal gasket scraper on aluminum
Thank you for that video
We got the thermosat out
Now we're going to purchase
A new one...
Thanks for making this video, the background music is awesome too
Social Distortion 👍
This thermostat replace is horse shit I will never do it again. I'll pay some one from now on
HaHa I usually end up spending more doing it myself cause I don't know what I'm doing.
Its a fucjing terrible job. Old gasket is a cvnt to remove. Getting the bolts started is an ungodly cvnt
DS Analysis --
In situations like this, I usually taper the end of the bolt with a grinder or cutting tool, and then use a hobby tool to cut new threads on the tapered part.
@@dsanalysis5013
I put Never Seize on one side of the gasket so I won't have the removal problem if there is ever a next time.
Really... That's a great idea. I've never thought of that. I'll use that idea in the future sometime.Thanks for the reply.
listening to madseason
This was good but the music in the background is hugely distracting.
This is not the old days where the thermostat sits on top of the block and it's a 20 minute job. This has consumed my entire day, and I still can't find the bolt that dropped somewhere onto the engine block. Pay and mechanic and let it be his problem. I will never buy a Ford again.
😂
great tunes
I think I lost IQ points after watching "YOU" do this procedure!
Bless your heart. So few to begin with ; )
Yeah, and now after watching this, NONE!
That's funny. How are you even able to type.
Well, since watching your pathetic video and receiving therapy to erase it from my mind, my IQ has returned back to normal, 176.
that's funny....12" schwantz too I bet
Appreciate the video. Your truck is just like mine. I followed this with the exception of removing the two small hoses. They were not that much in the way and so I didn't see the point in fooling with them. I put my T-stat in the housing first, put a little adhesive on the gasket and used it to hold the T-stat in place. Once it was about 80% set and didn't move very much, I was able to slip it carefully in place and then bolt it in.
I just removed the lower one, but definitely no need to remove the top one and would be a pain to put back...