I don't do rebuilds or repairs for anybody..I just work on my own vehicles but I'm sure you will find someone near you to help you rebuild your engine. Mostly, it is a step-by-step process with care taken to keep every part spotlessly clean. I have faith that anybody can do this with some practice and basic hand tools. You may surprise yourself! Best wishes!
I wouldn't go that far I only did lower and upper intake gaskets and fuel injector seals and I intake passage cleaning and PCV and EVAP delete and diff fluid change and tranny filter and fluid change too and spark plugs and wires and coil etc
There was about 150,000 miles on the engine when I rebuilt it in 2014. Still driving it in 2023! The rear main seal may be fixed with a wonderful pour-in product made by Blue Devil. look for Blue Devil rear main seal at any parts store or Amazon. Pour in the whole bottle to existing crankcase oil. Drive for two weeks. If not stopped, add one more bottle. If that doesn't stop the leak it is beyond a pour-in solution and you will need to replace the seal. This stuff has worked miracles on what I thought were hopeless rear main oil leaks. Try it! have you subscribed? It's Free. Thanks@@ericbrabec1
About to tear mine down will post my first videos on the full tear down and rebuild. 2002 f150 4.2 401276 miles first rebuild done to the engine. Still running strong but would like to give it a new life.
What an job on that sinister engine I just got one tore down with two bent rods from my Hydro lock. I’m on mobile mechanic in San Antonio Texas. I pray mine turns out as well as your birthday. God bless.
Hey man! Not sure if I understood you correctly but did you say you were a mobile mechanic in San Antonio? I’m also in San Antonio and been having issues with mine recently… would like your contact info
This one is 2003, 2wd extended cab as well. I would have liked it to be 4x4 but it met all my wishes and I picked it up cheap. So far, great truck. I've had it since 2014 when this rebuild took place. It's still going strong!
Man I would love to do this on mine if I could just find the time and space to do it. That was so satisfying at the end to see a clean build back in the engine bay. Must be so satisfying to see when you open the hood. It's how I feel now that I've overhauled the front-end of my truck. It's like a new vehicle compared to how it steered and handled before. But then the ever-present leaking of every seam possible exists on my engine as well. I also have a very unusual corrosion problem on the passenger axle housing that's turned into a pinhole leak just recently. Makes me wonder how much is too much, but I also would love to never have an auto loan again because screw bankers.
I picked up this truck in 2014 for a few thousand dollars and I knew it was a leaker. I started with the intent to just change the head gaskets and oil pan gaskets, but once I got into it, I decided to just haul it out. That's why you'll see that I removed the heads in place instead of just yanking out the whole engine. It was very satisfying to have it completed and running/ It has been more than 7 years since the rebuild and the engine runs perfectly. I have only ever bought 1 new vehicle in my life, and that was years ago. There are so many good used vehicles out there for cheap if you look for them. I also hate the dealerships and how they want to rip you off for everything: Overpriced cars, overpriced service, overpriced parts! I buy all my parts from rockauto. They are so much more reasonably-priced! Check them out! Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope you'll get to fix your truck the way you want. Keep in touch!😀
Given the original condition of that engine you made an exceptional job of cleaning it up. I must admit that cleaning engine parts has never been chore for me, something about getting an engine back to factory (or better) condition. Great vid Thanks
Hats off to you Sir! You're methodical and patient. Nice clean work area and the engine came out beautifully. Good piece of mind to know you didn't snap a ring. I'd have checked as well. I've done it a time or two and old rings have been pressed back into service. My Father and my Uncle built an engine completely out of junkyard parts except a few critical gaskets and seals. It ran wonderfully until my Sister starved it for oil. If you're clean and patient, that's #1.
Thank you. Like I've said before, I've learned most things the hard way. In the case of engines, I've put some together before that failed because I hadn't been careful. Since then, I try to keep everything spotless and in order. These Ford 4.2 engines have a particular quirk: The original intake manifold gaskets are prone to failure resulting in coolant leaking into the cylinder. Often, they leak slowly overnight and when you start the engine it is "Hydro Locked" (cylinder full of water!) and the engine destroys itself! Since Ford found this problem, they recommend using only the newly designed intake manifold gaskets purchased from the dealer. Even the "Good" aftermarket brands can fail in the same way. I took the advice, and bought those two gaskets directly from Ford. They are made in Germany. I had an aftermarket engine gasket set for the rebuild, but I set aside the intake manifold gaskets for these. Side by side, the German made vs. (aftermarket) gaskets showed clearly superior engineering. It was worth the extra $50 I spent on them. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent photo collection for reference. I took many pics of my earlier 4.2 teardowns (I've done two prior to the current one) but more is better and these usefully display hardware with fasteners like the pics of the front of the engine.
Thank you! I take plenty of pictures when I do projects and not so many videos. I wanted to try a photo collection in video form and this video resulted. I enjoy going back over a project and looking at the pictures--every one is a memory. I very much appreciate that my work (and photos) are valuable to you. Enjoy!
I rebuilt this one in 2014 and it is running strong in 2023. They were a relaiable engine with a few certain problems like the camshaft synchonizer that failed regularly. Do you know that the 4.2 is a 350 CUbic inch engine with the back two cylinders cut off the block? They added a balancer shaft inside to help smooth it out but in every other aspect, it is a 350. The bore and stroke when multiplied by 8 equals the 350. Good luck with your rebuild.
Yes, that could very easily have been a broken ring! I've never rebuild an automatic transmission but an old timer who rebuilt many, once told me, " You have one chance to get it right". Engine rebuilds are much the same. It's too late to go back and check once it's back in the vehicle. Thanks for watching!
Well done, I wanted to rebuild a 3.8 in shop class back in high school but the instructor gave me a 2.2 Pontiac sunfire engine instead, I wanted to rebuild the 3.8 since it’s the same engine in my 1994 mustang.
Engine rebuilding can be fun. It is within anyone's capabilities, all you need is patience and a place to lay things out clean. I haven't had any experience with the 2.2 or 3.8 engines but I've rebuild a chevy 350 and a chevy 2.8 and 4.3, a Toyota landcruiser engine (257.9 cubic inch, I think), a chevette engine, and several others. It's challenging but fun! Thanks for checking it out.
@@dynamicgameplay1825 OK. I Didn't know that. Don't they also put a larger engine in the Mustang, I think it's a 5.0 liter? or something like that. Strange how there are so many sizes and configurations. You'd think manufactures would perfect a few designs and put them in everything. What comes to mind is the old Ford 300 straight 6. That was in trucks and cars of every shape and size for years. I even know of them being modified for marine use! I guess every design team has new ideas. Plus, and it's a big PLUS. Parts selling would slow down if older model parts fit new engines. They are always trying to sell more!!
Hello Sir, I couldn't find it in the comments. But did you torque the bolts that holds the rocker arms to a specific weight ? The official manual doesn't provide guidance.
Definitely loved seeing this was looking for a 05 to 09 4.2 bc my lower intake manifold is fkd and nobody has one so looking to find a similar lower off another truck sense nobody can find one on a self at Ford or any other place
Glad you liked the video. I don't know where you will find a lower intake manifold. There are thousands of these vehicles still out there. I'm sure you'll be able to get one. Good Luck!
Hello . By any chance do you remember what way the balance shaft bearings go ? There’s a grove on it . I’m guessing for the oil I’m not sure if that has to go towards the front of the engine . Also does the rod cap matter on what rod it goes . Not sure if there 100 % in order? Please get back to me
I can't recall which way the balancer bearings go. There should be an oil gallery in the block leading to it. Check and it may be obvious which way it has to go. Rod caps should stay with their original connecting rod, but I remember that on the 4.2, they are machined flat where they join. (not a broken circle--those ones have to go back exactly on the break). I know that you are supposed to use NEW connecting rod bolts and NEW cylinder head bolts because the old ones would have been stretched on installation. These are Torque-to-yield bolts. There is an initial torque setting and then the bolt must be turned an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn). Check a manual for the exact procedure. Same with the Head bolts--install new ones! You can re-use the main bearing bolts because they are not torque to yield. Rockauto.com will have them quite reasonably, as are all their parts. They are my GO-TO parts store. If you are at all uncertain about both those issues, call an engine rebuilding machine shop- They will be able to give exact advice. This engine I did 8 years ago so some specifics aren't clear. Best of Luck!
I have a 2003 f150 with the 4.2, blew the head gasket yesterday, the engine has 315,000 trouble free miles so I think just replacing the gaskets would not be prudent considering the mileage, I am a good maintenance mechanic but a total rebuild is above my pay grade, could you give me a ball park estimate of the cost of removal, rebuild and reinstall, I live in Florida and have to try to find a reputable mechanic to do this, an estimate would be helpful, by the way, the video was very interesting.
Tough call. The truck is 20 years old so it is hard to sink much more money into it. You may be able to find a good, used engine at a scrapyard and have a mechanic install it or install it yourself. Probably cost about $500 for a used engine plus more for installation. You are looking at the best part of $1,500 ! Maybe time for a newer truck? Good luck and thanks for watching 😀
Excuse my ignorance, what is the gain in rebuilding this engine. I have the same kind of engine on 2006, is slow responsive in power. No other issues. Grrat video, Thanks for sharing!
I rebuilt this engine in 2014 just after picking up the truck cheap. It was worth it to me because at the end of the rebuild I had a very good truck for less money than many comparible trucks I saw for sale in my area. All-in for about $3,500 with the truck in rust-free condition, good paint, immaculate interior and a rebuilt engine. I have a 5-speed manual transmission in this one and I have found it adequate for my needs and reasonable on fuel (20 miles to the gallon). I can tow a 17 foot trailer with ease and I've hauled everything in this thing over the years--in fact it is still running very well; I drove it today. Thanks for watching!
@@EverydayProjectswow that is great, and good to know, I will definitely rebuild my 2006 4.2 engine, when i get a chance, I had some really bad and pocket breaking experiences with newer cars and not finding knowledgable mechanics. By getting mine rebuild I will feel a great relief ...thanks for replying. I hope my first comment didnt give the wrong meaning. Again big Thanks.!!!
@@plucky2115 If the body of the truck is in good shape a rebuild will take you forward many years. It's been 8 years since I rebuilt this one and I have no regrets. Just this Spring I did the rear brakes and exhaust and I wouldn't have spent that time and money if the engine was giving me any trouble at this age, but it's good. Let me know when you do the rebuild, I may be able to help with information on certain things.
Did you ever have any issues with a lifter not seeming to receive any oil ? I have all new push rods lifters and cam. Weird noise and lack of oil on one of lifters is telling me something aint right
I bought the intake manifold gaskets from FORD. They are a superior, after market brand made in Germany. All the rest of the gaskets and seals were Felpro. I reused the camshaft but installed new hydraulic lifters. Most of my parts I bought from Rockauto.com. Best wishes!
Buenas noches, tengo una pregunta y una disculpa por la ignorancia, se puede cambiar el empaque de cabeza sin necesidad quitar la cadena de distribución, sin mover esos componentes?
Sí, puede cambiar el cabezal o las juntas del cabezal sin quitar la cadena de distribución. El árbol de levas se encuentra en el interior del bloque del motor y no se ve afectado por el movimiento de la cabeza. ¡Buena suerte y saludos de temporada!
@@josecarlostejadaojeda7218 Solo recuerde que cuando desee quitar las culatas, primero debe quitar las varillas de empuje. Para ello, afloja la tuerca del balancín para cada cilindro, luego retira el balancín y empuja las varillas y realiza un seguimiento de dónde viene cada una. Es importante que vuelvan al mismo lugar en el reensamblaje. Hay muchos recursos en línea que pueden ayudar con el proceso de desmontaje y reensamblaje. ¡Buena suerte!
Hello, Did you replace the lower manifold bolts? and if you did where did you get the bolts? I am having a real hard time finding them. I have been told they have discontinued the bolts.
I re-used the lower intake manifold bolts (see them at minute 14:05) but I installed new isolator bolts that hold the upper (plastic) cover to the lower intake manifold (see them at minute 14:21). I bought them on Rockauto.com These are the bolts with a rubber collar on them. If you were talking about the exhaust manifold, by chance, I bought new studs at a local muffler shop. I hope this answers your question. Best wishes!
This engine block and heads were cleaned at a machine shop in the tank. I did the reassembly at home but the deep cleaning was done elsewhere. I'm sure yours came out just fine. Happy new YEAR!
Nice build I have a 99 f-150 5 speed I’ve decided to keep and at some point going to have to replace/rebuild the motor as it has 230 k on it going to change the rearend gears when I do as first is a little tall and almost never use 5th unless I’m on the freeway flat or going down hill as it doesn’t pull very good wondering if you had a noticeable difference in power after the rebuild I would like to keep mine stock but it could use some extra power in my opinion I’ve considered putting a turbo on but would prefer not to …… just curious Thanks 🙏 for posting !!!
I didn't notice much power increase after the rebuild. I rebuilt this one at 220,000kms because of excessive oil leaks everywhere, not because of mechanical issues. I installed the original camshaft and pistons with new rings, lifters and I had the heads rebuilt and resurfaced. Plus had the crank ground and put in lower bearings. I didn't know there was a turbocharger option for this truck. Maybe that'll give you the extra power you need. I changed the spider in the rear end and saw a significantly smoother transition between gear shifts (the spiders were shot !) but I left the gears and ratio stock..Good luck with your project !!
The 4.2 engine has only two main flaws that can be made better. The intake manifold gaskets sometimes leak water into the cylinders but using the new victor reinz gaskets eliminates the problem; and the camshaft synchronizer is known to go through its bearing surface, causing noise, rinning problems and oil contamination of the sensor on top. Using a FORD, factory part to change it out when this happens will get you through another 50,000 miles. Take Care
The 4.2 engine has only two main flaws that can be made better. The intake manifold gaskets sometimes leak water into the cylinders but using the new victor reinz gaskets eliminates the problem; and the camshaft synchronizer is known to go through its bearing surface, causing noise, rinning problems and oil contamination of the sensor on top. Using a FORD, factory part to change it out when this happens will get you through another 50,000 miles. Take Care
@@EverydayProjects yes the leaks were fixed on the 2000 and newer models. I'm in the process of turbo charging mine w 8 lbs of boost. These can make 400 HP at the flywheel with stock internals, you just need 42 lb injectors, a high pressure fuel pump, and turbo components. Need more power for towing. Maybe I'll change my axle ratios too. Not sure yet.
Let me see...I sent the heads out to be planed and valves ground; I put in new valve springs and seals; I had the block hot tanked and the decks resurfaced; the crank polished, and the flywheel re-surfaced. I honed the cylinders and installed the bearings, seals and gaskets myself, including the specialty (dealer item) intake manifold gaskets. The machine shop charges were about $600 and the parts, pieces and gaskets, including a new radiator and all hoses, and a clutch, cost me another $700. Then there are always a few other things that get you (coolant, oil, silicone, etc) so the total for parts and labor, excluding my own work was about $1,500 Canadian (just under $1,200 USD). It's not the route everyone would take, but I ended up with an almost new engine that has stood the test of time and miles. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get your camshaft position sensor drive gear. Everywhere I look they only sell the synchronizor or the cam sprocket but not the guy in between.
You're right. I've just looked for the synchronizer drive gear (the one on the end of the camshaft that engages the synchronizer gear) and it's no where to be found. I re-used the original drive gear when I rebuilt the engine because it was in perfect shape. I even looked, just now, on my favorite parts website: Rockauto.com and didn't see it. I suspect you will have to get this gear directly from Ford (they'll have a parts diagram that will correctly identify the part number). The only other idea I have is to try a wrecking yard. Maybe there is a good gear on the end of a camshaft, sitting on a shelf at the local junkyard. Good luck. Let us know on here if and where you find one. Thanks for watching!
@@EverydayProjects after much reading into my oil pressure issue and random surging I believed it was a bad cam synchronizer.I threw the new part in thinking it was a cheap process of elimination of other peoples reported repairs whether it be a faulty oil pump,cam synchronizor/intermediate shaft,oil sending unit,or a plugged up oil pick up tube. Looking back the teeth on the old cam synchronizer weren't too bad,and it worked awesome for about 7 miles with the new part until I had absolutely no oil pressure cruising down the road on a test run. A second go around after inspection of the oil pumps gears, and the cam synchronizer the same issue was there... I was starting to believe the engine was toast because it wasn't hand cranking at the harmonic balancer,but after one last look with the cam synchronizer out I realized it hand cranked over leaving me to think it's something in the timing cover.after a talk with a local fleet vehicle mechanic he also was thinking it was something faulty in the timing cover. Lone and behold that drive gear has uniform valley groves worn into all the teeth.
@@qweef69 That was good troubleshooting and bad luck with the gear having worn down. It's very coincidental that this topic has come up in the thread because a few weeks ago I had trouble with my camshaft synchronizer on this 4.2 engine, after almost 7 years of worry-free driving. I will be posting the video of my findings and repair tonight! Please stop by and check it out! Thanks again for sharing your story.
Awesome video! Unfortunately just weeks after buying my used 98' with the same engine the head gasket blew. I have pulled the motor and i'm in the process of rebuilding from the bottom up.I sent the block and shaft out to be boiled and polished respectively. My big question is, when reassembling, did you install the gaskets dry or wet? I seem to get conflicting stories and the survey seems to be split at 50/50! I would appreciate any tips or tricks being you have mastered this task! Thanks.
The head gaskets go in dry. I highly recommend that you go to a Ford dealer and buy two new intake manifold gaskets. They have modified the original intake manifold gaskets and made them stronger. Even the ones in the Felpro kits aren't as good as the ones from the dealer. Buy a felpro complete engine gasket set but swap out the intakes gaskets for the Ford Factory ones. There used to be a "hydro lock" problem with these engines where coolant would leak past the intake manifold gaskets into the cylinder resulting in catastrophic engine damage on start up. The new gaskets I bought from Ford were made in Germany. I applied permatex red silicone to both sides of the gasket just where it makes contact with the coolant ports for a bit of extra security (see in video). Other than that, all other gaskets go in DRY. Best of luck with the rebuild! Also, please note that both the connecting rod bolts and the cylinder head bolts must be discarded and replaced with new ones. They are what is known as "Torque to Yield", meaning that they stretch when installed. As such, they are a one time use. The torque to yield bolts must be torqued to a certain torque value (check with Ford or in a Haynes manual), then once they are torqued to that value, you turn them an additional amount. Again, check to see what the additional distance is. I think the connecting rod bolts are turned an additional 90 degrees, and the head bolts another 180 degrees. Check to make sure as I forget exactly. I buy almost all my parts from Rockauto.com. Great prices and they ship to Canada as well as all US states.
I live on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. That's probably far from where you live. Find a competent machine shop, disassemble the engine and drop off the major components (block, crank, heads, pistons) and when they come back carefully assemble. Most people can do this type of repair. I wish you luck and best wishes!
Hello ,I would Like to know if anyone can help me up I’m rebuilding my 1999 ford f-150 4.2 and I’m stuck on the way the head gasket goes and in the head cylinder torque ft lbs ‘of it if anyone can help I will really appreciate thank and advance.
You can see the head gaskets installed on the block at 11:36 of this video. The head bolts must be replaced with new ones and cannot be reused. The torque sequence for the head bolts is as follows: The first thing you must do when installing cylinder heads is to ensure both the block and head surfaces are completely clean from dust, oil, and any debris. The next thing you must to is to set the camshafts to their correct positions to prevent any valves from hitting pistons during installation and torquing of the head bolts. Much the same you have to set the pistons to their correct locations, typically this means putting the #1 piston to TDC or Top Dead Center. Once everything is ready you can install the head gasket onto the engine block by aligning the alignment dowels. Something I usually do is spray down the head gasket with some engine copper spray from permatex which you can find here, this ensures that any gaps that could be present between the 2 surfaces gets filled with the spray. It also helps to transfer heat between the 2 metals. With the gasket in place you can set the cylinder head onto the gasket and block, if needed have someone assist with this process as the head can be heavy and you don't want to scratch anything or drop it! Once the head has been placed you will want to start installing the head bolts to make sure it doesn't move. Be sure to buy new head bolts as many manufacturers use TTY or Torque to Yield head bolts meaning they stretch during torqueing and cannot be used twice. Also make sure to lubricate the bolts in clean engine oil before installing them into the head. Once all the head bolts have been installed and finger tightened you can start the torqueing process, almost all head bolts have a multi-step process for torqueing. The 4.2L has two different sets of bolts, one set being shorter than the other which I will refer to as shorter and the others as longer. To start off you will need to tighten all bolts to 14 ft-lbs in a cross pattern, then to 29 ft-lbs and finally to 36 ft-lbs. Once all bolts are at 36 ft-lbs you will then loosen the longer bolts 3 full turns and then retighten them to 33 ft-lbs. The reason for loosening the bolts is to set them in the threads as they are TTY. Next we will do the same for the shorter bolts by loosening them 3 turns and then torqueing them to 19 ft-lbs. Finally we can tighten all the bolts a total of 180 degrees doing them 90 degrees at a time. After torquing the heads are completely installed and you can now move to installing the timing.
I even had to change 2nd gear on my manual because i coudnt find the 2 piece stupid syncro rings swapped the gear for a single syncro style what a mess
Fortunately, I didn't have to go inside the transmission. I am seeing a weak third gear that pops out sometimes, probably from missed shifts and gear mashing over many years. So far, it's holding out.
@@justinpennington7682 This rebuild was done in 2014 and I still drive this truck every week. It has accumulated more than 200,000 miles since then and it still has great compression. Mine has the 5-speed manual transmission too. I change the oil and filter every 300o miles with full synthetic oil 5w30
tenga en cuenta que tanto los pernos de la biela como los pernos de la culata de cilindros deben desecharse y reemplazarse por otros nuevos. Son lo que se conoce como "Torque para ceder", lo que significa que se estiran cuando se instalan. Como tal, son de un solo uso. El torque para ceder los pernos debe apretarse a un cierto valor de torque (verifique con Ford o en un manual de Haynes), luego, una vez que estén apretados a ese valor, los gira una cantidad adicional. Nuevamente, verifique cuál es la distancia adicional. Creo que los pernos de la biela se giran 90 grados adicionales y los pernos de cabeza otros 180 grados. Verifique para asegurarse de que lo olvidé exactamente.
It was the engine that came with the truck that I picked up cheap. It's not a performance engine, just an everyday workhorse. I rebuilt it to put the truck to work. So far, the rebuld is going strong, and I've used the truck hard everyday for more than 8 years.
Let me see...I sent the heads out to be planed and valves ground; I put in new valve springs and seals; I had the block hot tanked and the decks resurfaced; the crank polished, and the flywheel re-surfaced. I honed the cylinders and installed the bearings, seals and gaskets myself, including the specialty (dealer item) intake manifold gaskets. The machine shop charges were about $600 and the parts, pieces and gaskets, including a new radiator and all hoses, and a clutch, cost me another $700. Then there are always a few other things that get you (coolant, oil, silicone, etc) so the total for parts and labor, excluding my own work was about $1,500 Canadian (just under $1,200 USD). It's not the route everyone would take, but I ended up with an almost new engine that has stood the test of time and miles. Thanks for watching!
Let me see...I sent the heads out to be planed and valves ground; I put in new valve springs and seals; I had the block hot tanked and the decks resurfaced; the crank polished, and the flywheel re-surfaced. I honed the cylinders and installed the bearings, seals and gaskets myself, including the specialty (dealer item) intake manifold gaskets. The machine shop charges were about $500 and the parts, pieces and gaskets, including a new radiator and all hoses, and a clutch, cost me another $500. Then there are always a few other things that get you (coolant, oil, silicone, etc) so the total for parts and labor, excluding my own work was just under $1,200 USD. It's not the route everyone would take, but I ended up with an almost new engine that has stood the test of time and miles. Thanks for watching!
Gracias por ver. Reconstruí este motor Ford 4.2 en 2014. Tiene más de 70,000 millas desde la reconstrucción y todavía lo conduzco todos los días. ¡Gracias de nuevo!
It was just the old serpentine belt. I changed it and the noise went away. This truck is still on the road in 2024, ten years after the rebuild, and it works perfectly.
@@EverydayProjects our 2000 4.2l manual is running good but coolant is rusty with a slight rainbow of oil in it, engine oil looks great though. Gonna replace the water pump, radiator and hoses. such a good truck want to keep it running, only 130,000 miles
@@nastysoda9212 They have that Blue Devil head sealant on Amazon.com. Works great on older engines. The oil in the coolant worries me, but this will seal any that may be coming from an old head gasket leak.
disculpa soy de Mexicali te mando un cordial saludo me gustó mucho tu video tengo un problema con mi carro pasaba aceite a dos bujías biomecánico le cambió empaques todo y me quedo mal y me sale más caro meterle creo que se dañó un anillo dónde podré conseguir un motor completo para mí pick up es un f150 xlt 99 motor 4.2 v6 transmisión manual qué me recomiendas a buen precio realmente le tengo mucho amor a mi pick up fue un regalo de mi esposa así que mejor me conviene comprarle un motor acá en México me sale un poco caro y no confío no creo que sea nuevo😢😢😢😢
Lamento escuchar el problema con su motor. Si está recibiendo aceite en dos cilindros adyacentes, la junta de la cabeza podría ser el problema. Si está pensando en comprar un motor usado, buscaría uno que tenga algún tipo de garantía (tal vez 90 días). Si solo tiene la opción de comprar un motor sin garantía, entonces solo pagaría un par de cientos de dólares. Al menos puede recuperar su costo vendiendo las piezas si no funciona. ¡Los mejores deseos para su camión y gracias por ver mi video! ................................................................................... I'm sorry to hear of the trouble with your engine. If you are getting oil in two adjacent cylinders the head gasket could be the problem. If you are thinking of buying a used engine I would look for one that has a warranty of some kind (maybe 90 days). If you only have the choice of buying an engine with no guarantee, then i would only pay a couple of hundred dollars. At least you can recover your cost by selling the parts if it does not work. Best wishes with your truck and thanks for watching my video!
When I started the engine after the rebuild, I used an old belt that was making a small noise. I changed it to a new belt and the noise went away. I wanted to point out what the noise was in the original video. Thanks for asking.
![Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bhIq9lsKvOU/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't do rebuilds or repairs for anybody..I just work on my own vehicles but I'm sure you will find someone near you to help you rebuild your engine. Mostly, it is a step-by-step process with care taken to keep every part spotlessly clean. I have faith that anybody can do this with some practice and basic hand tools. You may surprise yourself! Best wishes!
I wouldn't go that far I only did lower and upper intake gaskets and fuel injector seals and I intake passage cleaning and PCV and EVAP delete and diff fluid change and tranny filter and fluid change too and spark plugs and wires and coil etc
how many miles were the engine when you tore it down? i have an 03 f150 with 235000 and still going strong... i think. need to do the rear main seal.
There was about 150,000 miles on the engine when I rebuilt it in 2014. Still driving it in 2023! The rear main seal may be fixed with a wonderful pour-in product made by Blue Devil. look for Blue Devil rear main seal at any parts store or Amazon. Pour in the whole bottle to existing crankcase oil. Drive for two weeks. If not stopped, add one more bottle. If that doesn't stop the leak it is beyond a pour-in solution and you will need to replace the seal. This stuff has worked miracles on what I thought were hopeless rear main oil leaks. Try it! have you subscribed? It's Free. Thanks@@ericbrabec1
About to tear mine down will post my first videos on the full tear down and rebuild. 2002 f150 4.2 401276 miles first rebuild done to the engine. Still running strong but would like to give it a new life.
What an job on that sinister engine I just got one tore down with two bent rods from my Hydro lock. I’m on mobile mechanic in San Antonio Texas. I pray mine turns out as well as your birthday. God bless.
Good luck, man. Bent rods are no fun but you'll get it fixed!
Hey man! Not sure if I understood you correctly but did you say you were a mobile mechanic in San Antonio? I’m also in San Antonio and been having issues with mine recently… would like your contact info
I inherited my father’s 2001 f150 extended cab 2wd 4.2L. I can’t complain. It’s a great truck.
This one is 2003, 2wd extended cab as well. I would have liked it to be 4x4 but it met all my wishes and I picked it up cheap. So far, great truck. I've had it since 2014 when this rebuild took place. It's still going strong!
Man I would love to do this on mine if I could just find the time and space to do it. That was so satisfying at the end to see a clean build back in the engine bay. Must be so satisfying to see when you open the hood. It's how I feel now that I've overhauled the front-end of my truck. It's like a new vehicle compared to how it steered and handled before. But then the ever-present leaking of every seam possible exists on my engine as well. I also have a very unusual corrosion problem on the passenger axle housing that's turned into a pinhole leak just recently. Makes me wonder how much is too much, but I also would love to never have an auto loan again because screw bankers.
I picked up this truck in 2014 for a few thousand dollars and I knew it was a leaker. I started with the intent to just change the head gaskets and oil pan gaskets, but once I got into it, I decided to just haul it out. That's why you'll see that I removed the heads in place instead of just yanking out the whole engine. It was very satisfying to have it completed and running/ It has been more than 7 years since the rebuild and the engine runs perfectly. I have only ever bought 1 new vehicle in my life, and that was years ago. There are so many good used vehicles out there for cheap if you look for them. I also hate the dealerships and how they want to rip you off for everything: Overpriced cars, overpriced service, overpriced parts! I buy all my parts from rockauto. They are so much more reasonably-priced! Check them out! Thanks for watching and commenting. I hope you'll get to fix your truck the way you want. Keep in touch!😀
Given the original condition of that engine you made an exceptional job of cleaning it up. I must admit that cleaning engine parts has never been chore for me, something about getting an engine back to factory (or better) condition.
Great vid
Thanks
Thank you very much!
Hats off to you Sir! You're methodical and patient. Nice clean work area and the engine came out beautifully. Good piece of mind to know you didn't snap a ring. I'd have checked as well. I've done it a time or two and old rings have been pressed back into service. My Father and my Uncle built an engine completely out of junkyard parts except a few critical gaskets and seals. It ran wonderfully until my Sister starved it for oil. If you're clean and patient, that's #1.
Thank you. Like I've said before, I've learned most things the hard way. In the case of engines, I've put some together before that failed because I hadn't been careful. Since then, I try to keep everything spotless and in order. These Ford 4.2 engines have a particular quirk: The original intake manifold gaskets are prone to failure resulting in coolant leaking into the cylinder. Often, they leak slowly overnight and when you start the engine it is "Hydro Locked" (cylinder full of water!) and the engine destroys itself! Since Ford found this problem, they recommend using only the newly designed intake manifold gaskets purchased from the dealer. Even the "Good" aftermarket brands can fail in the same way. I took the advice, and bought those two gaskets directly from Ford. They are made in Germany. I had an aftermarket engine gasket set for the rebuild, but I set aside the intake manifold gaskets for these. Side by side, the German made vs. (aftermarket) gaskets showed clearly superior engineering. It was worth the extra $50 I spent on them. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent photo collection for reference. I took many pics of my earlier 4.2 teardowns (I've done two prior to the current one) but more is better and these usefully display hardware with fasteners like the pics of the front of the engine.
Thank you! I take plenty of pictures when I do projects and not so many videos. I wanted to try a photo collection in video form and this video resulted. I enjoy going back over a project and looking at the pictures--every one is a memory. I very much appreciate that my work (and photos) are valuable to you. Enjoy!
Buen motor de f150 4.2 simple económico y duradero 😊
Gracias 🙏
Awesome job! Great attention to details.
Thank you. I'm still driving this F-150 in 2023 and the engine is still running strong.
My 98 F150 has this same engine and I'm considering rebuilding it. Hopefully I can nurse it for another 3 years when I retire so I'll have time.
I rebuilt this one in 2014 and it is running strong in 2023. They were a relaiable engine with a few certain problems like the camshaft synchonizer that failed regularly. Do you know that the 4.2 is a 350 CUbic inch engine with the back two cylinders cut off the block? They added a balancer shaft inside to help smooth it out but in every other aspect, it is a 350. The bore and stroke when multiplied by 8 equals the 350. Good luck with your rebuild.
My 98 Ford E250 don't have that plastic plenum junk thank goodness
@@EverydayProjectsmy cam syncro is original and no issues
Good luck with your rebuild. Let us know how it goes.@@coreybabcock2023
@@EverydayProjects I don't plan on going that far I'm broke
So wise to check that piston. Do it right do it once! Nice build it looks great
Yes, that could very easily have been a broken ring! I've never rebuild an automatic transmission but an old timer who rebuilt many, once told me, " You have one chance to get it right". Engine rebuilds are much the same. It's too late to go back and check once it's back in the vehicle. Thanks for watching!
Well done, I wanted to rebuild a 3.8 in shop class back in high school but the instructor gave me a 2.2 Pontiac sunfire engine instead, I wanted to rebuild the 3.8 since it’s the same engine in my 1994 mustang.
Engine rebuilding can be fun. It is within anyone's capabilities, all you need is patience and a place to lay things out clean. I haven't had any experience with the 2.2 or 3.8 engines but I've rebuild a chevy 350 and a chevy 2.8 and 4.3, a Toyota landcruiser engine (257.9 cubic inch, I think), a chevette engine, and several others. It's challenging but fun! Thanks for checking it out.
@@EverydayProjects the 3.8 and 4.2 are the same engine just different bore and stroke
@@dynamicgameplay1825 OK. I Didn't know that. Don't they also put a larger engine in the Mustang, I think it's a 5.0 liter? or something like that. Strange how there are so many sizes and configurations. You'd think manufactures would perfect a few designs and put them in everything. What comes to mind is the old Ford 300 straight 6. That was in trucks and cars of every shape and size for years. I even know of them being modified for marine use! I guess every design team has new ideas. Plus, and it's a big PLUS. Parts selling would slow down if older model parts fit new engines. They are always trying to sell more!!
Here's an article about the popular Ford 300 straight 6. Interesting!
jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-ford-300-inline-six-is-one-of-the-greates-1795351528
I’m doing mine right now, I’m on the reassembly half, what year is yours? Mine is a 2000, with a different intake manifold and timing chain tensioner
This is a 2003. It's still running very well, 10 years after this rebuild. Good luck with yours!
outstanding
Thank you! This was done in 2014 and the truck is still running strong in 2023!
Hello Sir, I couldn't find it in the comments. But did you torque the bolts that holds the rocker arms to a specific weight ? The official manual doesn't provide guidance.
Rocker arm to head torque: 26 Foot Lbs; or 312 inch pounds; or 35.25 NM Best wishes! Have you Subscribed? It's FREE!
@@EverydayProjects thank you a million,sir I am subscribed!
@@EM-do1yi Welcome onboard!
Definitely loved seeing this was looking for a 05 to 09 4.2 bc my lower intake manifold is fkd and nobody has one so looking to find a similar lower off another truck sense nobody can find one on a self at Ford or any other place
Glad you liked the video. I don't know where you will find a lower intake manifold. There are thousands of these vehicles still out there. I'm sure you'll be able to get one. Good Luck!
I got one lower intake out of core engine
Piston blew hole in the oil pan
Hello . By any chance do you remember what way the balance shaft bearings go ? There’s a grove on it . I’m guessing for the oil I’m not sure if that has to go towards the front of the engine . Also does the rod cap matter on what rod it goes . Not sure if there 100 % in order? Please get back to me
I can't recall which way the balancer bearings go. There should be an oil gallery in the block leading to it. Check and it may be obvious which way it has to go.
Rod caps should stay with their original connecting rod, but I remember that on the 4.2, they are machined flat where they join.
(not a broken circle--those ones have to go back exactly on the break). I know that you are supposed to use NEW connecting rod bolts and NEW cylinder head bolts because the old ones would have been stretched on installation. These are Torque-to-yield bolts. There is an initial torque setting and then the bolt must be turned an additional 90 degrees (1/4 turn). Check a manual for the exact procedure.
Same with the Head bolts--install new ones!
You can re-use the main bearing bolts because they are not torque to yield.
Rockauto.com will have them quite reasonably, as are all their parts. They are my GO-TO parts store.
If you are at all uncertain about both those issues, call an engine rebuilding machine shop- They will be able to give exact advice.
This engine I did 8 years ago so some specifics aren't clear.
Best of Luck!
@@EverydayProjects Sounds good thanks for the quick reply
@@182Bassist I edited the reply and added more info. Take Care
que hermoso trabajo 👍 beautiful work , hi from mexico cd
Gracias. Este motor sigue funcionando bien después de 8 años. ¡Conduje el camión hoy! Hola desde Canadá
@@EverydayProjects grandioso que buen mecanico eres
I have a 2003 f150 with the 4.2, blew the head gasket yesterday, the engine has 315,000 trouble free miles so I think just replacing the gaskets would not be prudent considering the mileage, I am a good maintenance mechanic but a total rebuild is above my pay grade, could you give me a ball park estimate of the cost of removal, rebuild and reinstall, I live in Florida and have to try to find a reputable mechanic to do this, an estimate would be helpful, by the way, the video was very interesting.
Tough call. The truck is 20 years old so it is hard to sink much more money into it. You may be able to find a good, used engine at a scrapyard and have a mechanic install it or install it yourself. Probably cost about $500 for a used engine plus more for installation. You are looking at the best part of $1,500 ! Maybe time for a newer truck? Good luck and thanks for watching 😀
Thanks, I really appreciate your input, just trying to get an idea of prices, never had to do this before.@@EverydayProjects
Excuse my ignorance, what is the gain in rebuilding this engine. I have the same kind of engine on 2006, is slow responsive in power. No other issues. Grrat video, Thanks for sharing!
I rebuilt this engine in 2014 just after picking up the truck cheap. It was worth it to me because at the end of the rebuild I had a very good truck for less money than many comparible trucks I saw for sale in my area. All-in for about $3,500 with the truck in rust-free condition, good paint, immaculate interior and a rebuilt engine. I have a 5-speed manual transmission in this one and I have found it adequate for my needs and reasonable on fuel (20 miles to the gallon). I can tow a 17 foot trailer with ease and I've hauled everything in this thing over the years--in fact it is still running very well; I drove it today. Thanks for watching!
@@EverydayProjectswow that is great, and good to know, I will definitely rebuild my 2006 4.2 engine, when i get a chance, I had some really bad and pocket breaking experiences with newer cars and not finding knowledgable mechanics. By getting mine rebuild I will feel a great relief ...thanks for replying. I hope my first comment didnt give the wrong meaning. Again big Thanks.!!!
@@plucky2115 If the body of the truck is in good shape a rebuild will take you forward many years. It's been 8 years since I rebuilt this one and I have no regrets. Just this Spring I did the rear brakes and exhaust and I wouldn't have spent that time and money if the engine was giving me any trouble at this age, but it's good. Let me know when you do the rebuild, I may be able to help with information on certain things.
@@EverydayProjectsYou're right and I appreciate your info and offer for help. Have. A great day 👍
A mi f150 97 la cargo con aprox 3500kg y funciona genial realmente vale la pena reparar
Did you ever have any issues with a lifter not seeming to receive any oil ? I have all new push rods lifters and cam. Weird noise and lack of oil on one of lifters is telling me something aint right
I haven't seen that issue. Perhaps a blocked gallery in the engine block?
Question, What brand of material did you used? And did you replace tha camshaft and lifters or uses the old ones.
I bought the intake manifold gaskets from FORD. They are a superior, after market brand made in Germany. All the rest of the gaskets and seals were Felpro. I reused the camshaft but installed new hydraulic lifters. Most of my parts I bought from Rockauto.com. Best wishes!
Thank you for the information
Buenas noches, tengo una pregunta y una disculpa por la ignorancia, se puede cambiar el empaque de cabeza sin necesidad quitar la cadena de distribución, sin mover esos componentes?
Sí, puede cambiar el cabezal o las juntas del cabezal sin quitar la cadena de distribución. El árbol de levas se encuentra en el interior del bloque del motor y no se ve afectado por el movimiento de la cabeza. ¡Buena suerte y saludos de temporada!
@@EverydayProjects muchísimas gracias por el comentario, es de gran ayuda, felices fiestas!!!
@@josecarlostejadaojeda7218 Solo recuerde que cuando desee quitar las culatas, primero debe quitar las varillas de empuje. Para ello, afloja la tuerca del balancín para cada cilindro, luego retira el balancín y empuja las varillas y realiza un seguimiento de dónde viene cada una. Es importante que vuelvan al mismo lugar en el reensamblaje. Hay muchos recursos en línea que pueden ayudar con el proceso de desmontaje y reensamblaje. ¡Buena suerte!
Hello,
Did you replace the lower manifold bolts? and if you did where did you get the bolts? I am having a real hard time finding them. I have been told they have discontinued the bolts.
I re-used the lower intake manifold bolts (see them at minute 14:05) but I installed new isolator bolts that hold the upper (plastic) cover to the lower intake manifold (see them at minute 14:21). I bought them on Rockauto.com These are the bolts with a rubber collar on them. If you were talking about the exhaust manifold, by chance, I bought new studs at a local muffler shop. I hope this answers your question. Best wishes!
Wish I could have got my lower and upper intake as clean as you got yours
This engine block and heads were cleaned at a machine shop in the tank. I did the reassembly at home but the deep cleaning was done elsewhere. I'm sure yours came out just fine. Happy new YEAR!
@@EverydayProjects happy New Year to you as well
Nice build I have a 99 f-150 5 speed I’ve decided to keep and at some point going to have to replace/rebuild the motor as it has 230 k on it going to change the rearend gears when I do as first is a little tall and almost never use 5th unless I’m on the freeway flat or going down hill as it doesn’t pull very good wondering if you had a noticeable difference in power after the rebuild I would like to keep mine stock but it could use some extra power in my opinion I’ve considered putting a turbo on but would prefer not to …… just curious
Thanks 🙏 for posting !!!
I didn't notice much power increase after the rebuild. I rebuilt this one at 220,000kms because of excessive oil leaks everywhere, not because of mechanical issues. I installed the original camshaft and pistons with new rings, lifters and I had the heads rebuilt and resurfaced. Plus had the crank ground and put in lower bearings. I didn't know there was a turbocharger option for this truck. Maybe that'll give you the extra power you need. I changed the spider in the rear end and saw a significantly smoother transition between gear shifts (the spiders were shot !) but I left the gears and ratio stock..Good luck with your project !!
I love it...
This is awesome i have one too w 150k good trucks
The 4.2 engine has only two main flaws that can be made better. The intake manifold gaskets sometimes leak water into the cylinders but using the new victor reinz gaskets eliminates the problem; and the camshaft synchronizer is known to go through its bearing surface, causing noise, rinning problems and oil contamination of the sensor on top. Using a FORD, factory part to change it out when this happens will get you through another 50,000 miles. Take Care
The 4.2 engine has only two main flaws that can be made better. The intake manifold gaskets sometimes leak water into the cylinders but using the new victor reinz gaskets eliminates the problem; and the camshaft synchronizer is known to go through its bearing surface, causing noise, rinning problems and oil contamination of the sensor on top. Using a FORD, factory part to change it out when this happens will get you through another 50,000 miles. Take Care
@@EverydayProjects yes the leaks were fixed on the 2000 and newer models. I'm in the process of turbo charging mine w 8 lbs of boost. These can make 400 HP at the flywheel with stock internals, you just need 42 lb injectors, a high pressure fuel pump, and turbo components. Need more power for towing. Maybe I'll change my axle ratios too. Not sure yet.
What would be the charge to do that to my truck complete rebuild 4.2 same engine with 254,000 miles
Let me see...I sent the heads out to be planed and valves ground; I put in new valve springs and seals; I had the block hot tanked and the decks resurfaced; the crank polished, and the flywheel re-surfaced. I honed the cylinders and installed the bearings, seals and gaskets myself, including the specialty (dealer item) intake manifold gaskets. The machine shop charges were about
$600 and the parts, pieces and gaskets, including a new radiator and all hoses, and a clutch, cost me another $700. Then there are always a few other things that get you (coolant, oil, silicone, etc) so the total for parts and labor, excluding my own work was about $1,500 Canadian (just under $1,200 USD). It's not the route everyone would take, but I ended up with an almost new engine that has stood the test of time and miles. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get your camshaft position sensor drive gear. Everywhere I look they only sell the synchronizor or the cam sprocket but not the guy in between.
You're right. I've just looked for the synchronizer drive gear (the one on the end of the camshaft that engages the synchronizer gear) and it's no where to be found. I re-used the original drive gear when I rebuilt the engine because it was in perfect shape. I even looked, just now, on my favorite parts website: Rockauto.com and didn't see it. I suspect you will have to get this gear directly from Ford (they'll have a parts diagram that will correctly identify the part number). The only other idea I have is to try a wrecking yard. Maybe there is a good gear on the end of a camshaft, sitting on a shelf at the local junkyard. Good luck. Let us know on here if and where you find one. Thanks for watching!
@@EverydayProjects so the boys at future ford Sacramento say fords part number is f7zz6255aa,and it's just under $100.
@@qweef69 Hey, thanks! Somebody will benefit from that info. These engines are known for bad synchronizers. Did yours fail?
@@EverydayProjects after much reading into my oil pressure issue and random surging I believed it was a bad cam synchronizer.I threw the new part in thinking it was a cheap process of elimination of other peoples reported repairs whether it be a faulty oil pump,cam synchronizor/intermediate shaft,oil sending unit,or a plugged up oil pick up tube. Looking back the teeth on the old cam synchronizer weren't too bad,and it worked awesome for about 7 miles with the new part until I had absolutely no oil pressure cruising down the road on a test run. A second go around after inspection of the oil pumps gears, and the cam synchronizer the same issue was there... I was starting to believe the engine was toast because it wasn't hand cranking at the harmonic balancer,but after one last look with the cam synchronizer out I realized it hand cranked over leaving me to think it's something in the timing cover.after a talk with a local fleet vehicle mechanic he also was thinking it was something faulty in the timing cover. Lone and behold that drive gear has uniform valley groves worn into all the teeth.
@@qweef69 That was good troubleshooting and bad luck with the gear having worn down. It's very coincidental that this topic has come up in the thread because a few weeks ago I had trouble with my camshaft synchronizer on this 4.2 engine, after almost 7 years of worry-free driving. I will be posting the video of my findings and repair tonight! Please stop by and check it out! Thanks again for sharing your story.
Buen video amigo desde rep dominicana
Gracias Luis, me alegro que hayas disfrutado del video.
Awesome video! Unfortunately just weeks after buying my used 98' with the same engine the head gasket blew. I have pulled the motor and i'm in the process of rebuilding from the bottom up.I sent the block and shaft out to be boiled and polished respectively. My big question is, when reassembling, did you install the gaskets dry or wet? I seem to get conflicting stories and the survey seems to be split at 50/50! I would appreciate any tips or tricks being you have mastered this task! Thanks.
The head gaskets go in dry. I highly recommend that you go to a Ford dealer and buy two new intake manifold gaskets. They have modified the original intake manifold gaskets and made them stronger. Even the ones in the Felpro kits aren't as good as the ones from the dealer. Buy a felpro complete engine gasket set but swap out the intakes gaskets for the Ford Factory ones. There used to be a "hydro lock" problem with these engines where coolant would leak past the intake manifold gaskets into the cylinder resulting in catastrophic engine damage on start up. The new gaskets I bought from Ford were made in Germany. I applied permatex red silicone to both sides of the gasket just where it makes contact with the coolant ports for a bit of extra security (see in video). Other than that, all other gaskets go in DRY. Best of luck with the rebuild! Also, please note that both the connecting rod bolts and the cylinder head bolts must be discarded and replaced with new ones. They are what is known as "Torque to Yield", meaning that they stretch when installed. As such, they are a one time use. The torque to yield bolts must be torqued to a certain torque value (check with Ford or in a Haynes manual), then once they are torqued to that value, you turn them an additional amount. Again, check to see what the additional distance is. I think the connecting rod bolts are turned an additional 90 degrees, and the head bolts another 180 degrees. Check to make sure as I forget exactly. I buy almost all my parts from Rockauto.com. Great prices and they ship to Canada as well as all US states.
@@EverydayProjects Thank you very much for all your help.
@@almlodynia6557 You are very welcome. Let me know if you encounter any other issues with the rebuild. I'll help if I can.
Awesome video I have a 2000 F-150 where do you live in do you do work on the side v6 4.2
I live on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. That's probably far from where you live. Find a competent machine shop, disassemble the engine and drop off the major components (block, crank, heads, pistons) and when they come back carefully assemble. Most people can do this type of repair. I wish you luck and best wishes!
REBUILDING THE FORD 4.2L V6 ENGINE: A PHOTO JOURNEY
What did you torque head bolts too
Where did you order your head gaskets from?
Rockauto.com
How much u charge me to rebuild my engine
Hello ,I would Like to know if anyone can help me up I’m rebuilding my 1999 ford f-150 4.2 and I’m stuck on the way the head gasket goes and in the head cylinder torque ft lbs ‘of it if anyone can help I will really appreciate thank and advance.
You can see the head gaskets installed on the block at 11:36 of this video. The head bolts must be replaced with new ones and cannot be reused. The torque sequence for the head bolts is as follows:
The first thing you must do when installing cylinder heads is to ensure both the block and head surfaces are completely clean from dust, oil, and any debris. The next thing you must to is to set the camshafts to their correct positions to prevent any valves from hitting pistons during installation and torquing of the head bolts. Much the same you have to set the pistons to their correct locations, typically this means putting the #1 piston to TDC or Top Dead Center. Once everything is ready you can install the head gasket onto the engine block by aligning the alignment dowels. Something I usually do is spray down the head gasket with some engine copper spray from permatex which you can find here, this ensures that any gaps that could be present between the 2 surfaces gets filled with the spray. It also helps to transfer heat between the 2 metals. With the gasket in place you can set the cylinder head onto the gasket and block, if needed have someone assist with this process as the head can be heavy and you don't want to scratch anything or drop it! Once the head has been placed you will want to start installing the head bolts to make sure it doesn't move. Be sure to buy new head bolts as many manufacturers use TTY or Torque to Yield head bolts meaning they stretch during torqueing and cannot be used twice. Also make sure to lubricate the bolts in clean engine oil before installing them into the head. Once all the head bolts have been installed and finger tightened you can start the torqueing process, almost all head bolts have a multi-step process for torqueing. The 4.2L has two different sets of bolts, one set being shorter than the other which I will refer to as shorter and the others as longer. To start off you will need to tighten all bolts to 14 ft-lbs in a cross pattern, then to 29 ft-lbs and finally to 36 ft-lbs. Once all bolts are at 36 ft-lbs you will then loosen the longer bolts 3 full turns and then retighten them to 33 ft-lbs. The reason for loosening the bolts is to set them in the threads as they are TTY. Next we will do the same for the shorter bolts by loosening them 3 turns and then torqueing them to 19 ft-lbs. Finally we can tighten all the bolts a total of 180 degrees doing them 90 degrees at a time. After torquing the heads are completely installed and you can now move to installing the timing.
I need to rebuild my... 2002 4.2
Now im really afraid to rebuild my 98 Ford E250 4.2 v6
Fear not....you can do it!!
Glad i have the automatic 4r70w transmission and not a manual
I even had to change 2nd gear on my manual because i coudnt find the 2 piece stupid syncro rings swapped the gear for a single syncro style what a mess
Fortunately, I didn't have to go inside the transmission. I am seeing a weak third gear that pops out sometimes, probably from missed shifts and gear mashing over many years. So far, it's holding out.
I have 320k miles on my manual 4.2 . No problems. I do change the fluid every 100k miles
@@justinpennington7682 This rebuild was done in 2014 and I still drive this truck every week. It has accumulated more than 200,000 miles since then and it still has great compression. Mine has the 5-speed manual transmission too. I change the oil and filter every 300o miles with full synthetic oil 5w30
@EverydayProjects awesome. Unfortunately I still drive mine everyday as well. I'm about to retire her soon I think
Para apretar las cavezas del 4.2 cuanto va de torque por favor
tenga en cuenta que tanto los pernos de la biela como los pernos de la culata de cilindros deben desecharse y reemplazarse por otros nuevos. Son lo que se conoce como "Torque para ceder", lo que significa que se estiran cuando se instalan. Como tal, son de un solo uso. El torque para ceder los pernos debe apretarse a un cierto valor de torque (verifique con Ford o en un manual de Haynes), luego, una vez que estén apretados a ese valor, los gira una cantidad adicional. Nuevamente, verifique cuál es la distancia adicional. Creo que los pernos de la biela se giran 90 grados adicionales y los pernos de cabeza otros 180 grados. Verifique para asegurarse de que lo olvidé exactamente.
Why rebuild the 4.2? Why not rebuild something better/stronger? Is it just a reliable, original engine?
It was the engine that came with the truck that I picked up cheap. It's not a performance engine, just an everyday workhorse. I rebuilt it to put the truck to work. So far, the rebuld is going strong, and I've used the truck hard everyday for more than 8 years.
How much was the rebuild
Let me see...I sent the heads out to be planed and valves ground; I put in new valve springs and seals; I had the block hot tanked and the decks resurfaced; the crank polished, and the flywheel re-surfaced. I honed the cylinders and installed the bearings, seals and gaskets myself, including the specialty (dealer item) intake manifold gaskets. The machine shop charges were about
$600 and the parts, pieces and gaskets, including a new radiator and all hoses, and a clutch, cost me another $700. Then there are always a few other things that get you (coolant, oil, silicone, etc) so the total for parts and labor, excluding my own work was about $1,500 Canadian (just under $1,200 USD). It's not the route everyone would take, but I ended up with an almost new engine that has stood the test of time and miles. Thanks for watching!
I'm going to also rebuild oneof these and restore an 97 ford
Good luck on the rebuild / restoration !
whats a job like this cost?
Let me see...I sent the heads out to be planed and valves ground; I put in new valve springs and seals; I had the block hot tanked and the decks resurfaced; the crank polished, and the flywheel re-surfaced. I honed the cylinders and installed the bearings, seals and gaskets myself, including the specialty (dealer item) intake manifold gaskets. The machine shop charges were about $500 and the parts, pieces and gaskets, including a new radiator and all hoses, and a clutch, cost me another $500. Then there are always a few other things that get you (coolant, oil, silicone, etc) so the total for parts and labor, excluding my own work was just under $1,200 USD. It's not the route everyone would take, but I ended up with an almost new engine that has stood the test of time and miles. Thanks for watching!
en cuanto sale un otro motor así amigo reparado
Gracias por ver. Reconstruí este motor Ford 4.2 en 2014. Tiene más de 70,000 millas desde la reconstrucción y todavía lo conduzco todos los días. ¡Gracias de nuevo!
Sounds like it's going to blow up!! This is not normal!
It was just the old serpentine belt. I changed it and the noise went away. This truck is still on the road in 2024, ten years after the rebuild, and it works perfectly.
@@EverydayProjects our 2000 4.2l manual is running good but coolant is rusty with a slight rainbow of oil in it, engine oil looks great though. Gonna replace the water pump, radiator and hoses. such a good truck want to keep it running, only 130,000 miles
@@nastysoda9212 Blue Devil products are good. They have a head sealant that you might try.
@@EverydayProjects I'll check them out, thanks
@@nastysoda9212 They have that Blue Devil head sealant on Amazon.com. Works great on older engines. The oil in the coolant worries me, but this will seal any that may be coming from an old head gasket leak.
disculpa soy de Mexicali te mando un cordial saludo me gustó mucho tu video tengo un problema con mi carro pasaba aceite a dos bujías biomecánico le cambió empaques todo y me quedo mal y me sale más caro meterle creo que se dañó un anillo dónde podré conseguir un motor completo para mí pick up es un f150 xlt 99 motor 4.2 v6 transmisión manual qué me recomiendas a buen precio realmente le tengo mucho amor a mi pick up fue un regalo de mi esposa así que mejor me conviene comprarle un motor acá en México me sale un poco caro y no confío no creo que sea nuevo😢😢😢😢
Lamento escuchar el problema con su motor. Si está recibiendo aceite en dos cilindros adyacentes, la junta de la cabeza podría ser el problema. Si está pensando en comprar un motor usado, buscaría uno que tenga algún tipo de garantía (tal vez 90 días). Si solo tiene la opción de comprar un motor sin garantía, entonces solo pagaría un par de cientos de dólares. Al menos puede recuperar su costo vendiendo las piezas si no funciona. ¡Los mejores deseos para su camión y gracias por ver mi video!
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I'm sorry to hear of the trouble with your engine. If you are getting oil in two adjacent cylinders the head gasket could be the problem. If you are thinking of buying a used engine I would look for one that has a warranty of some kind (maybe 90 days). If you only have the choice of buying an engine with no guarantee, then i would only pay a couple of hundred dollars. At least you can recover your cost by selling the parts if it does not work. Best wishes with your truck and thanks for watching my video!
Recomiendo reconstruirlo jefe
ASI paso con mi 2001 estandar 4.2
Y orita estoy arreglando UN 2008 4.2
Why belt noized? Its ok?!)))
When I started the engine after the rebuild, I used an old belt that was making a small noise. I changed it to a new belt and the noise went away. I wanted to point out what the noise was in the original video. Thanks for asking.
Every masters 1 or 2 problem for owners))
Cómo. Calibro. Punerias. De. Motor
Awsome build ! Looks great.
Thank you very much! This was done in 2014 and the engine is still working perfectly. In fact, I drove this truck today! Thanks for watching!!