How to Abseil (Rappel) into a Couloir whilst skiing // DAVE SEARLE
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2022
- Abseiling or Rappelling into a couloir can be a daunting task as a skier but with the right tools for the job and the proper training you can open up a new world of ski mountaineering adventures. In this video we look as one system of many to abseil into a couloir or to pass a steep section.
Shot and Edited by Fabian Hribsek
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Only a matter of time before your channel takes off mate. Excellent quality and solid sponsors onboard now.
Thank you!
Another great video thanks Dave. Would love to see one on crevasse rescue - everything from which ropes you'd take out into crevasse terrain, different anchor setups in different situations etc.
Nav tips and tricks would be cool as well - how not to get lost in a whiteout during a big ski tour for example.
Thanks for the ideas!
Lovely video Dave! Always good to refresh these skills
Thanks!
Really useful information presented clear and concise, thanks for the video Dave!
No worries! Give it a share if you like it.
super video! bravo Mr. Searle!
Thank you!
great video! I read that Beal website noted that Escaper works with all ropes with a diameter greater than 7.3mm. In the video you are using it with 6mm Petzl Rad Line, is that safe to use with rope under 7.3mm?
Hi Ian! Without categorically saying that yes it works with a rad line (because I don’t know the reasons why they say you can only use it with 7.3mm ropes or thicker). I don’t personally see why it wouldn’t work as you are ok to abseil on a single 6mm Radline with the correct technique and the escaper is basically a anchor connector. As with anything use judgement and common sense!
Hi Dave! Great video!
You will find dangerous abseil with to different diameter ropes like 30m 9mm guide rope with 30m 6mm rad?
Using a brake system (reverso..) with double carabiner. Sometimes you need a dinamic rope for some techy summits but for lightness, abseil or glacier traverses go with 6mm dynemma ...so i think will be fine but not sure if one will slice in the brake system (maybe better in this case use clove hitch)??
For next videos will be great your opinion to entrance in a couloir, from cutting the snow to check the stability using rope with your partner belaying you from behind on the snow or with skis, to brake a snow cornice to get on the couloir, etc
Saludos!
I would suggest to use the 6mm rope as more of a tagline in that scenario. Eg thread the 9mm with a figure of 8 on one side of the mallion and tie the rad line through that loop. The Americans have been adopting that system for years.
Great video, thanks! Just wanted to say a couple of words about the Beal Escaper. I recently used it for abseils on the Zugspitze Stopselzieher route in winter conditions. Unless that thing is constantly weighted, there's a very real chance of it coming completely loose and that within 2-3 seconds. Happened twice to me during that winter climb, as I was about to re-weight it for the abseil and it scared the living bejeezus out of me. It's a good device, but keep it weighted. ALWAYS! Just my two cents.
Yeah for sure it’s got to be used with care! Fully weighted is the key point. I’m very happy with it though.
Hi Dave, quick question: what mic are you using? Love this channel, been subbed for many years!
Brilliant - very informative, can we go through this when I visit next week?
Sure thing! Haha
Thanks for making interesting videos!
When you have abseiled and are down in the couloir, how do you get rope and anchor back? Is there anything that will be left on the top?
Yes I guess we forgot to mention that part. The last person takes the sling and unties the knot from the Beal escaper. When you get to the bottom you pull and release the rope multiple times (15-20times) and the escaper works loose and falls down. Nothing is left behind.
Found your channel from the Petzl Radline video. Wondering what you think about the Edwlrid Rap protect as a do anything ski mountaineering rope. Seems pretty similar to the Petzl but could also be used as a dynamic twin in a pinch if you need to protect a short climb. What do you think?
The questions I’d ask is how does that rope work with progress capture devices. Sounds like a good option though.
I don't climb but love these vids. Real question, when you absail like this...once the last person is down and unclipped, what will happen to all the equipment and ropes up top at the anchor? How would you retrieve that stuff if you are below?
Yeah I guess that isn’t well explained in this video. The Beal escaper is a system that you can use to retrieve the rope from the top anchor. All that would be left is the bolts on the top, and the whatever is connecting them. The rope and escaper come down after you pull it multiple times.
@@DaveSearle thank you
Thanks for the video! What diameter cord do you find suitable for a prussik on the rad line (or other ~6mm rap cords)?
I use a pair of beal jammys which are designed as a Prussik loop. 5.5mm but softer and with better grip from the sheath. They don’t work as well as mechanical devices for hauling but it works very well as described on the petzl site for descending
Hi Dave, have you used a Grivel Scream? Only 48g extra and might be better than using the biner and hitch. Although I haven't seen anything about using it with only one strand.
I just bought a edelrid Mago 8 which seems more versatile and I’m liking it.
@@DaveSearle nice, looks interesting. Can't find much about the Grivel with one strand--although the slot aperture looks the same as the Edelrid.
Any tips on how to prevent the extended carabiner from twisting around itself when rappelling ?
Sorry not sure what you mean…
What pack are you using? Looks sweet
It’s called a Blue Ice Kume 30. I really like it!
@7:38 non retrievable beal escaper backup overhand? :D Cameraguy has to get down somehow right? (plus get that locker/sling back from the anchor)
How well do you find it works on the 6mm cord? Looks like Beal has it rated down to 7.3mm (gully rope).
Yeah the camera man has to get down and he untied it. Forgot to show that in the video. 6mm cord works fine!
I may be being silly, but couldnt you just use a long rope and loop it through the anchor point then throw both ends down and just use a reverso to belay down and then just pull the rope down after you are at the bottom
Yeah that’s the common way to do it! This is a different light weight alternative
What about using a Grigri? Pros/cons?
A grigri would work with a thicker rope as a single strand with the escaper. However it would be a much heavier setup.
Presenting a rappel setup made from a Rad line + escaper is very misleading for beginners, to say the least...
Yes I agree it’s not a beginner technique. Also no one should ever learn how to abseil from a RUclips video. Perhaps you didn’t hear the part where I encouraged people to learn from a guide? My idea with this video is to inspire people to learn something new or see how professionals do it. Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting.
That means you never retrieved your Beal Escaper and also left your PAS or sling+carabiner attached to the anchor.....like your videos, but this time I think it should had been better explained on how to retrieve your whole gear with you.... not for me, but for all the rest of your followers..... Keep climbin....
Yes I agree. It didn’t explain that very well and I only realised after I uploaded it. This is the only video on my channel that I haven’t edited myself. In some ways it was better but in others it was worse. I’ll do better next time
@@DaveSearle Congrats man ! This is so humble of you....people would see guides as Gods, but they need to know that the mountains are places that has no margin for error, and that is why a begginner should ALWAYS hire a guide for their outings...... Hope to see you one day in Chamonix....keep the good work man !!