Cutting My New Titanium Frame - Hardtail Party
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- Опубликовано: 2 дек 2019
- A lot of you have been wondering which size to order when getting your middle child. In this episode, I receive my new size medium Middle Child and swap my parts over from my small frame to see how they ride differently. One disadvantage to sizing up on a frame is that the seat tube is typically longer on larger frames. This is a problem for me, as I have super short legs. Watch what it takes to make this frame work for me. Did you learn something valuable? If so, show your appreciation and support this channel by becoming a Patron today: / hardtailparty
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Note: this will void your warranty and I do not recommend it unless you know exactly what you're doing and you're willing to live with your results/mistakes.
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For reference, I'm 5'6" tall, with a 28" inseam. I have the torso of a 5'10" man, and the legs of a 5'2" man. That means seat tubes are almost never low enough (and I usually need 100-125mm droppers), and the reach could usually be longer. I've been riding the size medium for a few months, and there are some things it's better at (steeps, plowing through chunk, and going faster) and some things it's worse at (bunny hops, pump tracks, manuals, goofing off). Stay tuned for a future video where I compare the two.
hardtail party I too am built like that. 5’10” with a 29” inseam. Large frames fit my torso but not the legs. Medium to cramped in the top.
Oh me too. 5'7'' Long torso short legs ride medium most of the time
@@trailblazeratv6306 Keep i mind that different brands have different sizes. I'm a large in a specialized, a medium in RSD, and a small in some other brands.
I'm 5'10" but the other way around, legs like a guy who's 6'1". Usually go large to accommodate the long legs but would prefer medium for snappier handling.
Wondering if you might still post a video with your thoughts on S vs. M in the Ti Middle Child, even though you're no longer an RSD brand ambassador.
@@thomaskuhn6541 video coming soon on on that very topic. Thanks for the suggestion.
Cutting a new Titanium frame is pretty insane!
I agree. I get an insane streak in me from time to time.
😂👍
Love the out takes! 😂
Thank you for this "strictly for educational purposes only" video lol. I had to reference it for educational purposes today. 😎
Great video exactly what I was looking for . I need to do this in my 17 commencal meta am .
Have you have any problems with the frame where it was cut ?
Thank you
As someone the same sort of sizes a you, that likes as much dropperpost as possible, here's some alternatives to cutting your frame.
- Shorter cranks: even 165mm work just fine. Most mortals won't notice any, or much, difference in pedaling performance. You loose a tiny amount of leverage, but gain cadence, so it works out.
- Short stack seat: Yeah it's a thing, if you can get away with less padding you can easily gain another 5+mm, just look at how "tall" a Chromag trailmaster is from a side profile, for example.
- Thicker pedals: Are you running super thin pedals? You could use slightly burlier once, and not loose much in terms of pedal clearence, but gain another couple of millimeters.
- Low(er) stack dropper seat. Yeah the Bikeyokes are super, and they already have a fairly low stack height (collar and rails), but with something like OneUp droppers you can gain a bit more. Beats cutting an expensive frame and voiding warranty.
Really love your videos bro!!! 👊👊👊
Thanks for watching, I'm glad you found hardtail party.
That was insane!
I love how americans start using the metric system for everything more precise than 1/2 inch :D The bike looks awesome, just like your videos!
Im a fan of the metric system.
I only use the American measuring system so all things are measured in school buses, jumbo jets or football fields 😅
This gave me the worst heartburn. Glad it worked out 👍
Steve, takes some balls taking an angle grinder to a titanium frame👍🏻 You’re not the only one to have this sort of dilemma! I’m about an inch taller with an inch longer inseam and I’m riding a medium Whyte t130c with 432mm seat tube, but I’m running a 125mm dropper and using 170mm cranks and I would not want a seat tube any longer🤪 but would like to have a 150mm dropper. I will defo be looking at a shorter seat post for my next bike and I noticed the other day that Norco(and others) are making some of their bikes(I was looking at the new Sight) with much shorter seat tubes!
where can I get one of those bike holders thing of a jiggys ?
Awesome!
Hello, I want to cut the seat tube of an aluminum frame, in the same way as you. How long have you used it? During use, you experienced an abnormality, a weld crack, etc.
Holy old comment section, Batman! Just wanted to stop by and say this inspired me to cut my seat tube 10mm today in order to get the full 150mm from my Brand-x Ascend XL dropper. The V2 design doesn't work with shims like the old ones did. Went well and now I'm sitting at perfect pedaling height AND can take full advantage of the 150mm the stem has to offer! (I don't recommend anyone else do this at home and this CERTAINLY will void your warranty)
Like the video when you chopped a titanium seat tube under the gusset tube brace..that's what i thought this one was ..
But aren’t you gonna add more stress to the weld? You have any long-term follow-ups on this particular modification?
You really should look into getting a custom built frame. I know of a few places that will build you the frame with all the geo numbers you want so the bike fits you and your riding style.
I think this was the video that got me hooked on hardtail party.. I thought “this guy is legitimate” when I saw him whip out the angle grinder
Haha. Legitimately psycho. ;)
Was there ever a follow up to this video comparing the small to the medium? I ended up going with the small, but do find myself wondering if I should have gone for the medium at 5' 7.5" with a 30" inseam. Been having plenty of fun on it, but still gotta wonder.
I kept my small for my bikepacking bike, and my med is my main bike. The med fits me better. I have very short legs (27.5") and a very long torso.
Brave man!
I'm looking to do this on a steel hardtail, EXCPEPT that I plan to also remove the entire seattube/toptube gusset pipe. Yes I realize I'm compromising the structural integrity of the frame, but this will lower my seattube length by 50mm, while also making the bike look 300% more aesthetic. I'll easily be able to run a 170mm dropper, probably bigger. Then it's just the test of time to see if she holds up, LOL.
I've been tempted to do the same.
Hi hardtail party😁 just wondering what derailluer hanger you used for your middlechild? is it easy to order from rsd in case it breaks or can you order from another brands? Thanks!
It's part of the dropout system. It's pretty beefy and I'm not worried about it breaking. You could always order a second one from rad if you were worried.
Hi hardtail party! I don't know if it's a stupid question but is it ok to put a 140 mm fork on a santa cruz chameleon 27.5 plus? Thanks! 😷😁🍺
I know this video is a little older but I wondered after riding it for a while, do you have any regrets? Specifically with removing the “brace” tube between the seat post and the top tube, any noticeable flex or problems? If so is it good compliant flex or weird and wobbly while seated?
No issues.
What dropper post is this? Bike Yoke post with no handlebar remote? I love the under the saddle idea
It's a bike yoke with a handlebar remote. But it also has the bleed lever under the saddle and you can cheat and pull it up from there. This is how the original dropper posts worked.
Was there a follow up to this video? Can't seem to find the comparison of the small vs. medium video... or did I miss something?
I've talked about it off and on. Check out my bikepacking builds series.
I wish this can be done on a GG Pedalhead but the problem is the seat post insertion. If I remember correctly, the max insert of the post is only 150-160mm (not the travel) even though the seat tube length is 420mm. This is because of the bend right under the the TT/ST connection. I'm also 5'6" with 30.6" inseam and I'm stuck with 125mm dropper post (PNW Cascade) using a low stack seat rails clamp from OneUp to buy 5mm of clearance. I wish GG make seat tube that's straight so that I can at least fit a 150mm dropper in there.
I'm here looking to replace my frame. Not sure which one though yet.
I enjoy your videos btw. I started following when I was looking for a HT around Spring season and saw your video in your Chameleon.
I feel your pain. The bigger wheels get, the harder it is for us shorter riders. Big wheels mean long chainstays, which means bent seat tubes, which means less insertion length available.
I've been "thinking" about a DJ or something similar to play on, I know NOTHING about that side of the Bike World though, little harder to "demo" those. I find myself wishing that the seat tubes on all of my bikes were at least an inch shorter, I think the worst was my Recluse. You've got me wondering if the Firebird has clearance for that too, not that I have the balls to cut into it, yet.
I wanted a recluse back in the day, but that tall seat tube turned me off. The recluse is a fantastic bike, but it has one of the tallest seat tubes I've ever seen. Ibis does a great job with their latest bikes. They have super small seat tubes.
I have large frame I cnt touch ground with seat at lowest. I want to cut tube but afraid I'll get my butt to close to tire if I try anything technical on mtb trails. My seat wud be closer than urs is I'm considering getting smaller tires but sure if it would screw me up. Aside from smaller tires I'm considered do mix tire situation too but if I drop size and do mix I'm not sure if I can do that without more cutting....... will see. I don't want new bike but might be more pain to modify a huge bike. My mother inlaw brought it with her from Germany and she's 6inches taller than me. After watching few videos of ppl cutting tubes im not sure my bike shop even wants to Tru to cut my seat tube lolol.
My mind is blown off! I just do not know if it is from cutting a titanium frame or from an American being aware of the metric system.
How tall are you ? I'm 5'7'' and ride medium
Where’d you snag your mudguard??
I can't remember. I think I got it at the maxxis booth at sea otter 2018
Its crazy how fixated we are on dropper posts now. I have no clue how I rode with out one. My new fat bike can only fit a 100mm dropper and I considered cutting it haha
I just dont have the balls to cut into that pretty new carbon.
I know what you mean. I don't recommend it, but I cut 3" off the seat tube of my carbon enduro bike. It made it possible to get the reach I want with the seat post i need. Not recommended, and it'll be impossible to sell.
@@threeohm I still dropped my saddle all the time in the 90s, it was just usually at the top of a long climb and took way more time. And we had short chainstays because we were on 26" wheels. When we started adding bigger wheels, seat tubes had to become curved to keep chainstays long. Curved chainstays means seat posts can' drop as low. Thank goodness for droppers.
Lol I have the same grinder 👍🏻
I still wonder why ALL the bike manufacturers insist on those unnecessarily long seattubes... Im sure none of the taller riders would appreciate an 200+mil dropper. :duh:
Worst of all, that seattube usually grows more per size than the reach, or any other measurement on the bike. In case of the MC you "pay" with 40mil seattube for 37mil reach.
Dear bike companies, stop ruining your standover hight and maximum dropper lenght for absolutely no freakin reason! These arent roadbikes for crying out loud.
How hard can it be, to just align a potentially slammed dropper with the top of your rear tire? And more importantly, why does that stuff even need to be pointed out?
"Its a bike not a space shuttle" , Spot on dude!
Were did us get that torque wrench
This one was from amazon. A lot cheaper than a bike-specific one. I also like the toprak nano torque bits.
Ok thx I might buy one
Feedback sports range is very versatile.
Bro, your backyard looks better than most people's vacation spots. I'm jelly.
We feel very lucky to live here. We came here on vacation once and fell in love. So we moved here.
hardtail party Sedona?
@@jonathangreiner yes
hardtail party Awesome, congrats! I proposed to my wife there!
So much for the frame warranty, but I get it why you had to do that.
Wouldn't it have been easier just to get a shorter dropper?
Easier, yes, but my seat would be higher at full drop. When you have short legs like me, we need all the room we can get. To me, the purpose of a dropper is to drop the saddle as low as possible.
Is Ti better than carbon on a HT ?
Depends on what "better" means to you. There's no one blanket statement I can make about all ti and carbon frames. A lot comes down to how you ride, what you want out of the ride, and how it was built. Some carbon frames ride incredible. Some are awful. Same with Ti.
Ti is metal. Carbon is plastic. Ti is gonna work and last forever. And will handle impacts. Carbon is stiffer, and will be super light. but won't handle much impact. So you have to keep a eye on what hits the frame or how beatdown you go.
@@KillerRaptorr carbon is often stiffer, but it can be woven to be more compliant, so it really depends on the frame.
@@hardtailparty I do not mean general impacts of bike performance. I mean impacts as the bike takes impacts from falls, or a crash, or someone just in general slapping it with something. Carbon doesn't handle well to outside attack. But Ti-Steel-Alum can take a beating and still fly.
@@KillerRaptorr I agree with you on the impacts. When you say carbon is "stiffer", I wanted to clarify that carbon frames are not always stiffer; it depends on how they've been engineered.
I'M SELLING TWO OF MY SMALL FRAMES:
#1 - Size Small RSD Middle Child Titanium frame (raw finish, shown at the beginning of this video) - $1500 plus shipping. Like new. Only 15 rides on it, no crashes, no damage. Anodized logos have been removed.
#2 - Size Small RSD Middle Child Chromo (yellow) - This bike is well-used and has been taken care of, but ridden hard. Paint scratches and rub marks. $350 plus shipping.
If you're interested, email me: hardtailparty@gmail.com
Or, you can always order a new one and save 5% using coupon code "party."
Omg i feel the pain
I still can't believe that you actually cut a titanium
I don't regret it one bit
This is a nice break from reality....I mean, how many of us can drop $2000 on a titanium frame as an 'experiment'???!!!
“...it’s a bike, it’s not a space shuttle.” I love that! Lol. I tell people all the time, “it’s just bikes, it’s not rockets.”
Similar problem long torso and short legs
I feel the seat tubes on all the newer frames are too short
You know, cutting the frame like that you've released the pixies from it. Bad juju. You might want to watch that one closely.
Proud of you for voiding your warranty!
Yeah, there's no going back now. You should see what I did to my carbon full suspension bike! I cut 3" off the seat tube. Definitely no going back on that one either.
I'd be concerned about extending the seat tube "slit" below the top tube brace weld. It might do nothing, as the dropper post might enable the weld to keep its shape, but if not, you might place the weld under tension causing it to crack over time....granted, over time might mean decades - but who knows.
I see what you mean, but it's a risk I'm willing to take. If it were aluminum I would expect it to be more likely to crack. If it buys me two years by being able to slam my dropper, it was worth it in my opinion. If it cracks, I'll address it down the line. If not, fantastic. So far it hasn't moved.
The slit is only designed to give the seatpost clamp a area to 'close' on the seatpost. That's why the frame is cut there, is to allow the seatpost clamp to 'clamp' the frame onto the post and hold it in place. The clamp does not support the seatpost whatsoever. That is all done by the frame tube. That's why alot of seatposts have a min post raise, because the point of the raise shouldn't go beyond the frame's Cross path, so it can have the post keep structure strength from the frame, and not bend down. If you raise it beyond that, and it goes beyond the cross frame. Then your basically gonna have the post snap the upper frame top.
Or you could have just used a OneUp dropper. You maniac!
I can't deny that I'm a maniac.:)
I hear a lot of love for the oneup droppers, but I hate 'em. They're the worst dropper I've tried, and I've tried a lot. My wife has one on her bike and it has been extremely problematic. A lot of people think that because they have adjustable travel, that they can fit on any frame. But keep in mind, a even when you lower the travel on a oneup dropper, the the insertion length doesn't change. So, to get 160mm drop, I'd need a 175mm dropper, which will have too long of an insertion. A 150mm might have fit, but I like having the full 160mm of drop. This dropper is perfect. Totally worth the mod. For me, the goal is for a dropper to have zero post showing in the frame, that means I can lower it as much as humanly possible, but still have the proper seat height when pedaling.
When I read this back, it sounds super harsh, and I don't mean for it to be. I just have heard so much praise for those droppers, but despite their low price point and adjustable travel, their design is still awful, which requires the housing to move every time it's actuated, rather than the cable inside the housing.
@@hardtailparty I get you. I did not encounter any issues with a moving cable on my OneUp. Your way was more fun though!
I think my oneup issues are probably because my seatposts are so short. The housing ends up entering the dropper right near the internal hole, so there's not enough room for the housing to slip back and forth every time I actuate it.
Jajajja uff
😧
I'm not bothered by this at all. It's not like that seat tube would flex in anyway. The only concern would be the depth you sink the dropper in there. Which would be all the way because that's why you cut it in the first place. No problem there.
As for the seat clamp. You can get away with a lot less material. I've previously used a hose clamp for a while without any problems.
First here!!!
I was cringing watching you cut that. Not because of you. Just scary watching you cut that gorgeous frame
You and me both. Fortunately it turned out alright.
The opening of your seat clamp should oposite to the relief cut on your frame
Not always. In fact, the clamp that comes with the rsd is on the same side as the relief.
I turn mine to the front to avoid dirt getting to the threads and stuff.