First, hello Dr A. Been a long time lurker and admirer of your many videos. Keep up the sterling work, always very informative and enjoyable. Second: not totally relevant, but if anyone reading this has a VX Astra or Insignia from around 2006 to 2011 with the double DIN head unit and is suffering from a parasitic battery drain like Dr A, the chances are it's your head unit at fault. I spend a long time scratching the scalp until I simply removed the head unit (not the scalp) for a couple of weeks and concluded that was the source of the drain. It must've been waking up during the night and eating my electrons. A physical toggle switch in the +12V feed near my knee fixed all my troubles. I hope you find a similarly final solution sir.
A long time has passed since this great video, but wondered if you ever found what the RR wiring loom mod was that cut power to this module to eliminate any drain from it ?? if so, would be very grateful for the info. Thank you again for all your interesting content
Interesting! I've got a problem with my L322 where the passenger heated seat is stuck on causing major battery drain! According to the schematic the seat heaters are powered from that control unit, I fully expected to see a couple of surface mount micro relays on that output board.... Will have a dig on mine to see what the score it with it
Hi !! do you have a video showing how did you removed the AC panel from the car front panel? I guess my problem is that the fan never stop, I can hear it running after I turn of the car, and now I know where is it thanks to your video... I ve sent my car twice to Land Rover service and they can not find the problem... and now watching to your video I m sure that I know where is it. Thanks
Do you have a part number for the thermistor? I just checked mine for continuity and it doesn’t have any. Would it be as simple as replacement of that element alone?
Ok the resolution is a bit of a pain but basically if you pull the panel you can isolate the power feed, pull that and it kills the climate control system. The fix is to put a relay in there and wire it to the appropriate accessory circuit. LR use the beeper in the drivers footwell. If you can get to the fuses you can also make the modification there. It's the equivalent of pulling the AC system fuse.
@@backofficeshow Thanks Andy. I have a bigger issue now. I replaced my battery and now have a NO Crank situation. All lights and power are in good nick. Wondering if my immobilizer is on now. Any trick or tips on this? Many thanks in advance.
@@backofficeshow is the power feed on the black colour plug in the back of the climate control unit? I think I am going to try the rewire as I have changed the hedgehog and changed the climate control unit and still have the mini temp fan running when switched off 🤔 so isolation of the power is the only option I think left. Well other than a large hammer 🔨🙄🤷
All the modified wiring loom did was allow a relay to be fitted controlling the permanent 12v feed by the ignition. It is easy to modify the existing loom. The only down side is that the panel loses it's memory.
Hi Andy, two years later but just now seeing this, thanks to the almighty Google. Did cleaning the fan fix your cool air problem? As I write, it’s 4* C outside. I have to turn my temp knob almost all way up to get warm air on “Auto”. If I push the Floor, Face and Defrost buttons, I can get warm air.
I would suggest that a clean may definitely help, otherwise it might have no idea on what you are experiencing in the cabin. Maybe a blast of canned air might help if you do not have time to pop it out
@@backofficeshow I think I’m going to pull the panel out and take it apart, as you did, in order to give it a proper cleaning. The unit did something new today, whilst the heat was on with the floor, face and defrost buttons active….it turned off on its own. I think I’ve bigger issues, and a new PCB and FSR might be in order.
Great Video Dude, My 06 Land Rover Range Rover HSE, Ac sometimes Randomly blow hot and cold again, is anyone have this problem before any Tips how to fix it.. please..
Hello Dr Been, do you repair these panels (make a total reconditioning) if I would send it to you by courier? I am located in Poland and desperately want to avoid exchanging these panels via Ebay used parts as they all will tend to ware out :-( cheers! Maciej
Hi Andy ive got l322 range rover 4.4 tdv8 2012 heating stays on all the time ive checked fuses relays no luck ive changed heater resistor still the same any idea what it could be if its the control heating unit can u repair it and how much i bought second hand still didn't do anything
Thanks for the tip at checking the resistance, How easy or hard do you think it would be to replace the thermistor? As mine has no amp or resistance so I'd go with its toast. Any help appreciated pal, thanks
@@backofficeshow I found a schematic and it shows a 50A maxi fuse to the blower, has to be that one. was hoping there is a relay, that stuck closed, still looking, these rovers are loaded with bells and whistles that can go bad. just had to replace a solenoid in the tranny, not hard but a little messy. thanks for your reply.
@@backofficeshow hi its paul i too have the l322 hahaha, and both the ballast are playing up, i have the mosfets and waiting for the orange capacitor to arrive, question when you repaired the unit did it work perfectly and stay on, both of mine switch off after couple of minutes, and i have seen a mercedes ballast repair online that replace the four mosfet type items they are upright in two rows of two on the circuit board.
When mine was turning off like that after a few minutes it turned out to the the lamps. Ironically they were brand new, but just not in spec (what job). I forked out for OEM and it solved the problem.
Guys, my fan on the board is working all the time or at least when i get in My L322 Range i can clearly hear the buzz sound, coming from the HVAC. Is it normal to work all the time and do i need to replace the panel in this case?
There was a kit that Landover sold themselves to correct this. It removed the permanent power feed to the unit with an ignition switchable one feed from the buzzer circuit. I recall you can find the fuse to the HVAC system and disconnect it to stop this. If you locate that fuse, that is the part of the circuit you need to remove from live feed and change to ignition/accessory switch feed.
Good point! It actually did solve the cabin always running too cold. Didn't solve the electrical drain, but I think that is isolated now to an issue in the battery. Took some measurement and logging to get that far 😁
@@backofficeshow Thanks for the video. I have the battery drain issue and have had it for many years. I was hoping for "the cure" as it really makes the vehicle a pain. My resolution has been to keep a small battery charger plugged into the cigarette lighter port and plug the vehicle in if leaving for more than two days. I was caught rather badly once when I left it at the airport for a weeks holiday and arrived home at some ungodly hour to DOA 2003 L322.
@@backofficeshow Been there. Done that. I learned that sealed transmissions need oil changes. Who knew? The ZF trans can be re built if that is in the budget.
It's some GM bullcrap unit. I'm going back to series land rovers if I ever bother with another one. The previous owner had this one rebuilt a couple of years ago so I was not expecting any trouble.
@@backofficeshow many thanks, any help you can give is really appreciated My battery is going flat every 3 days, that is, if I do not use vehicle my 2004 L322 TD6, and I can clearly hear the fan running without ignition on! Just a note> I had a porsche 911 years ago and I could hear the similar small fan running when car was switched off, when I enquired at the time I was told that it was normal for it to run without ignition so that when car was unused there would be a constant slow air flow circulation inside the car to keep the car from misting and damp ??????
backofficeshow my brother and I still own a 1980 classic RR, we used to trial it as part of a local club, it is heavily modified in the body department, we reduced the wheel base by 10" but the class we drove in you had to retain something like 90% of the original body work, so had to make the backend smaller but still look right. Built are own roll cage (had to be compliant to the club rules) moved the radiator into the back when we shortened the front end, the list goes on we worked on it for months, it is a very capable vehicle, my brother was a far better driver than me. Still have her tucked away in a old horse box, not seen her in many years though.
3 years later. I can tell you this HEVAC unit was not your original problem. Glove Box Fuse number 4 will shut it off. All of these vehicles have the HEVAC running for minutes after the car is shut down.
First, hello Dr A. Been a long time lurker and admirer of your many videos. Keep up the sterling work, always very informative and enjoyable.
Second: not totally relevant, but if anyone reading this has a VX Astra or Insignia from around 2006 to 2011 with the double DIN head unit and is suffering from a parasitic battery drain like Dr A, the chances are it's your head unit at fault. I spend a long time scratching the scalp until I simply removed the head unit (not the scalp) for a couple of weeks and concluded that was the source of the drain. It must've been waking up during the night and eating my electrons.
A physical toggle switch in the +12V feed near my knee fixed all my troubles.
I hope you find a similarly final solution sir.
Hey Andy, thanks for sharing this, it's good stuff!
Parasitic drains are no fun and must often cause a lot of otherwise healthy cars to get scrapped 😒
৭৭৮৮৮৮৭৭৭
More L322 content please!
Easy on the ear and makes electronics seem nearly real life. I wish you lived near me. Great guy.
A long time has passed since this great video, but wondered if you ever found what the RR wiring loom mod was that cut power to this module to eliminate any drain from it ?? if so, would be very grateful for the info. Thank you again for all your interesting content
Great video,my issue is no power to the climate seat controls, all leds dead. Fuses checked all OK. Any suggestions
Have you checked the power pins on the connector to see if there is power getting to the unit. If there is, it could be a communication issue
@@backofficeshowNo, I have to work out how to get that unit out of the dash! Looks like it would be a pain
Like all automotive fittings, they are always a pain the first time. The benefit of this vehicle is that you don't tend to break any clips doing it
Interesting! I've got a problem with my L322 where the passenger heated seat is stuck on causing major battery drain! According to the schematic the seat heaters are powered from that control unit, I fully expected to see a couple of surface mount micro relays on that output board.... Will have a dig on mine to see what the score it with it
Definitely there will be a heated seat fuse you can pull if you don't find the relay
@@backofficeshow Yep fuse 52 according to the schematic
great video how do you get that out of the car ? as i can my fan keep going after i pulled the keys out so think i have a problem with the fan
Hi do you know where i can buy this harness or how to fix this problem thank you
Hi !! do you have a video showing how did you removed the AC panel from the car front panel? I guess my problem is that the fan never stop, I can hear it running after I turn of the car, and now I know where is it thanks to your video... I ve sent my car twice to Land Rover service and they can not find the problem... and now watching to your video I m sure that I know where is it. Thanks
Do you have a part number for the thermistor? I just checked mine for continuity and it doesn’t have any. Would it be as simple as replacement of that element alone?
Hi Andy. Love the channel. My little fan runs all day and night as well. would love to hear the resolution if you have one as of yet. Cheers!
Ok the resolution is a bit of a pain but basically if you pull the panel you can isolate the power feed, pull that and it kills the climate control system. The fix is to put a relay in there and wire it to the appropriate accessory circuit. LR use the beeper in the drivers footwell.
If you can get to the fuses you can also make the modification there. It's the equivalent of pulling the AC system fuse.
@@backofficeshow Thanks Andy. I have a bigger issue now. I replaced my battery and now have a NO Crank situation. All lights and power are in good nick. Wondering if my immobilizer is on now. Any trick or tips on this? Many thanks in advance.
@@supergamerbear80 sounds like a personal immobiliser issue. Also if you get that working, consider changing your transmission heat exchanger
@@backofficeshow is the power feed on the black colour plug in the back of the climate control unit? I think I am going to try the rewire as I have changed the hedgehog and changed the climate control unit and still have the mini temp fan running when switched off 🤔 so isolation of the power is the only option I think left. Well other than a large hammer 🔨🙄🤷
Hey did you ever figure out the battery drain issue?? Thanks
All the modified wiring loom did was allow a relay to be fitted controlling the permanent 12v feed by the ignition. It is easy to modify the existing loom. The only down side is that the panel loses it's memory.
Hi Andy, two years later but just now seeing this, thanks to the almighty Google. Did cleaning the fan fix your cool air problem? As I write, it’s 4* C outside. I have to turn my temp knob almost all way up to get warm air on “Auto”. If I push the Floor, Face and Defrost buttons, I can get warm air.
I would suggest that a clean may definitely help, otherwise it might have no idea on what you are experiencing in the cabin. Maybe a blast of canned air might help if you do not have time to pop it out
@@backofficeshow I think I’m going to pull the panel out and take it apart, as you did, in order to give it a proper cleaning. The unit did something new today, whilst the heat was on with the floor, face and defrost buttons active….it turned off on its own. I think I’ve bigger issues, and a new PCB and FSR might be in order.
Great Video Dude, My 06 Land Rover Range Rover HSE, Ac sometimes Randomly blow hot and cold again, is anyone have this problem before any Tips how to fix it.. please..
Please speak to the inlet of the air conditioning console of the RANGE ROVER L322
Hello Dr Been, do you repair these panels (make a total reconditioning) if I would send it to you by courier? I am located in Poland and desperately want to avoid exchanging these panels via Ebay used parts as they all will tend to ware out :-( cheers! Maciej
What about cleaning the sensor .with air flow sensor cleaner?
Hi Andy ive got l322 range rover 4.4 tdv8 2012 heating stays on all the time ive checked fuses relays no luck ive changed heater resistor still the same any idea what it could be if its the control heating unit can u repair it and how much i bought second hand still didn't do anything
If you pull the fuse to the climate control computer on the dash do you still get heating?
Probably a mechanical issue if you do
My car monitor trips and resets itself from the heat outside, is it possible its that fan not cooling the board correctly?
Thanks for the tip at checking the resistance,
How easy or hard do you think it would be to replace the thermistor? As mine has no amp or resistance so I'd go with its toast. Any help appreciated pal, thanks
Probably not that difficult really if you can find a replacement
Is it possible for that board to keep the blower running with the fusses out and key off.
It can run with keys or no keys, but with the correct fuses removed, it should not be able to run.
@@backofficeshow I found a schematic and it shows a 50A maxi fuse to the blower, has to be that one. was hoping there is a relay, that stuck closed, still looking, these rovers are loaded with bells and whistles that can go bad. just had to replace a solenoid in the tranny, not hard but a little messy. thanks for your reply.
hi there andy love the work ,can i ask you a question on the l322 xenon control unit you did recently please
I think it was a while ago but ask and I'll try to remember!
@@backofficeshow hi its paul i too have the l322 hahaha, and both the ballast are playing up, i have the mosfets and waiting for the orange capacitor to arrive, question when you repaired the unit did it work perfectly and stay on, both of mine switch off after couple of minutes, and i have seen a mercedes ballast repair online that replace the four mosfet type items they are upright in two rows of two on the circuit board.
When mine was turning off like that after a few minutes it turned out to the the lamps. Ironically they were brand new, but just not in spec (what job). I forked out for OEM and it solved the problem.
@@backofficeshow ok i will look at them, as for the repair any other issues with ballasts
How about spraying some AFS cleaner on the sensor.
I world stick to IPA or contact cleaner
Guys, my fan on the board is working all the time or at least when i get in My L322 Range i can clearly hear the buzz sound, coming from the HVAC. Is it normal to work all the time and do i need to replace the panel in this case?
There was a kit that Landover sold themselves to correct this. It removed the permanent power feed to the unit with an ignition switchable one feed from the buzzer circuit.
I recall you can find the fuse to the HVAC system and disconnect it to stop this. If you locate that fuse, that is the part of the circuit you need to remove from live feed and change to ignition/accessory switch feed.
That litlle fan inside, works when i open door of the car, what is his purpose anyway?
To suck the cabin air over its temperature sensor. It comes on as soon as you open the door and for many minutes after you lock the vehicle
@@backofficeshow could that drain my battery? My new Varta battery is drainmlat night?
Pull the fuse for the climate control module and see if the next day of the battery is still good
@@backofficeshow Thank you, dont know fuse number do You know maybe? On my L322 all is writen german :(
No, you will have to Google it
Now I really want to see a follow up! You cant just end a video without resolving, if you fixed it or not!? :D
Good point! It actually did solve the cabin always running too cold. Didn't solve the electrical drain, but I think that is isolated now to an issue in the battery. Took some measurement and logging to get that far 😁
@@backofficeshow Thanks for the video. I have the battery drain issue and have had it for many years. I was hoping for "the cure" as it really makes the vehicle a pain. My resolution has been to keep a small battery charger plugged into the cigarette lighter port and plug the vehicle in if leaving for more than two days. I was caught rather badly once when I left it at the airport for a weeks holiday and arrived home at some ungodly hour to DOA 2003 L322.
Mine has just decided to destroy it's gearbox, not sure if I want to fix it now 😂
@@backofficeshow Been there. Done that. I learned that sealed transmissions need oil changes. Who knew? The ZF trans can be re built if that is in the budget.
It's some GM bullcrap unit. I'm going back to series land rovers if I ever bother with another one. The previous owner had this one rebuilt a couple of years ago so I was not expecting any trouble.
Is there a way to just simply cut the (power only) to this tiny little fan and stop it from running ?
You need to kill the power to the HVAC by pulling the fuse. Fit an in-line socket in there, or even better AV accessory powered relay
@@backofficeshow where is the fuse located? Where can I buy AV accessory powered relay and how does it work exactly?
That you will need to Google. But to start, find the fuse, at least you will know what to pull
@@backofficeshow many thanks, any help you can give is really appreciated
My battery is going flat every 3 days, that is, if I do not use vehicle my 2004 L322 TD6, and I can clearly hear the fan running without ignition on!
Just a note> I had a porsche 911 years ago and I could hear the similar small fan running when car was switched off, when I enquired at the time I was told that it was normal for it to run without ignition so that when car was unused there would be a constant slow air flow circulation inside the car to keep the car from misting and damp ??????
If I recall they should run for a little while but power down after 15 minutes.
😁 and I thought the P38 HEVAC unit was a pain. the little fan grill on my p38 was like a dirty belly button, covered in fluff.
Anything land rover is always an immense pain 😂
The most reliable ones I had were series 3s. I miss em.
@@backofficeshow also had a series 3, the things you wish you hung onto.
You might find me in an old copy LROI if you are lucky 😂
backofficeshow my brother and I still own a 1980 classic RR, we used to trial it as part of a local club, it is heavily modified in the body department, we reduced the wheel base by 10" but the class we drove in you had to retain something like 90% of the original body work, so had to make the backend smaller but still look right.
Built are own roll cage (had to be compliant to the club rules) moved the radiator into the back when we shortened the front end, the list goes on we worked on it for months, it is a very capable vehicle, my brother was a far better driver than me. Still have her tucked away in a old horse box, not seen her in many years though.
What year is the Land Rover?
Early to mid 2000s
3 years later. I can tell you this HEVAC unit was not your original problem. Glove Box Fuse number 4 will shut it off. All of these vehicles have the HEVAC running for minutes after the car is shut down.
Let us know if you fixed it or not. ??
Follow up coming for sure
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi