@@That_droper wow, no I dont't. But i also would't recommend this robot design for stepper motors. There are lots of other designs already made for stepper motors. (And raspberry pi) good luck
1.59. When extending servo (etc.) wires, I have started staggering the solder joints. Using the wire colours in your video as an example, I would do this: * Cut each set of wires 1cm longer than you have shown. * Peel apart the ribbon cable, as shown in the video, * Do nothing to the brown wire. * Cut 1cm off the red wire. * Cut 2cm off the orange wire. * Now with the loose wires: * Do nothing with the yellow wire. * Cut 1cm off the red wire. * Cut 2cm off the black wire. * Slip a 4cm piece of shrink-wrap over ALL the wires. * Solder the wires as shown in the video... the difference is that the joints will be offset from each other, so the soldered parts cannot touch. * Shrink the wrap... the finished joint will be much thinner. 👍 😊
Damn, great videos. Can’t wait to see what else you come up with. Awesome step by step tutorials that can enable anyone to recreate your project. So good for learning.
I’ve just built it and it works perfectly 🎉. It’s incredible the smoothness of the movement and the cleverness of the design. Thank you for sharing this 🤩. The robot is now helping to automate biology experiments at Edinburgh.
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Dude, I have all of the exact hardware and wires you have down to the brand lol. You have it stacked in your video the way I have mine stacked on my shelf.
This is awesome! I recently bought my own 3d printer and this inspired me to try and design and make my own arm! Will definitely use this as a reference. Keep on making things dude!
Putting heat shrink on the end of your alligator clips for holding wires is a great life hack so you don't mar your wires whilst soldering. (one piece on each side of the jaw, then heat).
This is really cool!! I', building this now. just got my new bambu P1s with AMS and this is perfect first project on it. Many thanks for the great project and tutorial
@@connorribera4198 11v should work for the arduino, but if the servos are 4.8v-7.2v, you should step down voltage going to them. for battery current, you have to look at the stall current of a servo, and add them all up, and add extra buffer.
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Hi so i am a student and i am doing a project where i am using brain waves to try and control a robot arm i dont really know what i am doing but i know that the brain waves can be used to control Arduino robots would there be a way for me to connect it to this build?
It's perfectly possible, but you need a computer in between that analyses the brain waves and translates them to the correct movements, which is all but a trivial task
@@whitesugar188 I just used a 20kg servo on that particular joint because it has to lift the most weight. However, a standard serve should do, it’ll just be a bit jittery I’d imagine.
I have built your mimic controller to control my laser cut arm. I have a geared 360 degree servo for base 270 degree servos for movement and a 180 degree servo for claw. Eventually i would like to save movements to program replayable positioning. How can i slow down the movement of the servos compared to the mimic robot arm they move too fast and slams the arm around. Is there simple code change i can use.
Hello, since I can't get the 20kg servo, I could replace it with another mg995 and if I can't get mg995 either, why could another servo motor replace it, more than anything, it's for a sample, not to carry something heavy.
I believe they are back in stock now. If they still say "unavailable," it may be because they cannot ship to your region. Any servos of the same specifications should do.
I am assembled the robot. My gripper servo (SG90) just keeps rotating. Any specifics on which servo I need to use? I have checked and the ones I have got are not the continuous ones. Would appreciate any help as this is blocking my build.
Resolved. The servo I got were continuous rotation. It did not say anything on the label which caused the confusion. When ordering servo for gripper, please ensure you get ones that specify rotation angle = 180 degrees
When you build it together, do you keep an eye at the position of the servos when screwing it together? I have the same 180°-Servos for it but one joint isnt working correctly. Its only moving a small way.
Is there a replacement for the three gears used? All the other parts are available locally, and I don't prefer to buy the gears' kit online. So, can I print these gears or something?
I want to put the circuit together before printing parts, just to test everything, but in the circuit diagram I don’t know which motor is which. Could you tell me which motor is which from top to bottom on the motor? The one labeled hand is obvious, but I want to be super sure. Thanks
Certainly! The servos are listed in descending order starting from the “hand.” So, from top to bottom on the diagram is from the gripper to the base on the model.
It is not required, and another standard servo may work. However, I would recommend using it in the joint shown to reduce jittering. (Because, that joint will need to lift the most weight)
Great model, I assembled it and am working on using ROS2 for better control of the arm (I got inverse kinematics working with arduino code though). Could you possibly send me or publish the STEP files of each component so that I can assemble it in onshape to export as a URDF file? Thanks!
Thanks! I’m using an adjustable power supply (linked in description) and running it at 7 volts. But really, any 7V power supply that's rated for at least 5 Amps should do.
If you are buying servos and other parts already you might as well just save time and effort and buy servo extension cables. They are cheap, come in loads of lengths and means you don’t need to solder.
I built it on a breadboard but am having trouble getting it to work. The code loads fine. Does it need power from both the Arduino and the servo driver board? what is the voltage to the driver board? Is the breadboard schematic correct. I didn't want to start printing parts until I knew we could wire it correctly.
I have built this, but for some reason whenever I turn it on the robot arm doesn't mirror what the controller is doing. The wrist potentiometer is corresponding to the base servo, but nothing else works. I have rewired it, and changed out Arduinos and it still doesn't work. Is there a possibility I got faulty code? What else could be wrong? Thanks.
Hello! While the material cost is relatively low at around $60. The total cost to purchase everything upfront is much higher at around $200. However, this is assuming that you have none of the suggested parts and would need to purchase everything. And, most of the purchases included in this total have more parts than what is required for this project. For example, the linked micro servo pack comes with 4 servos, but only one is needed. Hope this helps!
Hello! The small arm is explained in Part 2 of this tutorial. The explanation begins at around 4:45 in Part 2 and its wiring can be found in the description.
I really Like the design. Maybe i will split some parts in order to ease printing and to reduce need for Support Material. Would also be nice to have .scad files, as they make modifications more easy.
Thanks! Great idea to reduce supports! Unfortunately, I do not believe I am able to export designs as .scad files from Fusion 360. However, this link will take you to the Fusion and .step files for this arm/controller: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1x4P8AquQILwCp8e5CiRJLfVJiJn2U4cF?usp=sharing Hope this helps!
What do you use to power the PCA9685 Servo Driver Board? I am trying to build my own robot and have the issue of powering the servo driver. It needs 5V but my breadboard power supply module outputs only 500mA. Every other power supply is eighter 12V (or more) or is really expensive.
I noticed you didn't list any quantities in your parts list. Am I wrong in assuming I need to order just one of each of the parts/sets/items listed in the material list above?
I just printed the piece of the main arm. The one that the motor is not mounted to. The material that connects the bearing the the arm is super thin. It snapped under light pressure. Maybe 1mm? Is that by design or did it not print properly? Looking forward to trying out your design.
I currently want build a robotic arm but i dont have a 3d printer. Do you know if theres a way to build my own without a 3d printer like i can buy all the parts somewhere thats also cost effective?
I would recommend buying a chassis online that’s what I did then add my own edits with wood and drilling also I think there are place that will let you order custom chassis
Thanks! That’s awesome! The standard 220 x 220 mm bed size will easily fit all of the pieces. You will just have to distribute the parts in groups to print them all. In other words, the standard bed size volume won’t be able to fit all of the parts in just one print. Hope this helps!
Figuring out which gear to use is frustrating given a big pack of unmarked gears. I bought the gears using the link you provided but I am only coming up with 38 and 42 toothed gears. None of which have the diameter or lay flush as your gears seem to do in the video. Did you cut the guide rod bearing off? Also the hole diameter is much smaller with the linked gears than an m4 can go through. Is the link for the gears on amazon accurate?
I also bought the same one as listed in the description and i found the 34 and one 40 tooth gear, as for the other 40 tooth gear i took one which had 40 tooth and some small gear attached end i cut that part off. as to make it flush i simply cut the bits that extended outwards off. i hope this helps
@@mihaichici hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
How did you make the motions so smooth with software? My potentiometer readings fly all over the place and the motors just tic and twitch all the time. Or am I having bad connections? Hmmm
Hello, I´m a teacher on a High School in Germany, exactly in Bavaria. I´m very, very impressed of Your project and I want to make it with my pupils. Is it possible if You press the button on the gripper and simulate a movement with the small robot included the potis that the robot can repeat this movement automatically? Is there an additional button necessary for save and repeat the automatically movement? Kind regards Michael
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Thanks! I haven’t experimented with record and play functionality much, but it has been done before. I believe it requires some sort of storage device (such as a Raspberry Pi) to store all of the positions. You could probably find some helpful videos covering the topic in depth here on RUclips.
Hello! While running servos directly off of the Arduino is less complicated, it can become impractical when controlling more than just a couple servos. Since I need to power 5 servo motors for this arm, it would draw too much current through the Arduino’s 5V pin and possibly fry the board altogether. The PCA9685 Module supplies power directly from an external power supply to prevent this from happening, which allows me to control up to 16 servos without worrying about burning up the micro controller. Hope this helps!
Looks great! im going to try modify it a bit, to make it into glados from portal 2... idk how well it will go but im excited anyway. could you test if it works while upside down?
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size. - What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Hello! While the material cost is relatively low at around $60. The total cost to purchase everything upfront is much higher at around $200. However, this is assuming that you have none of the suggested parts and would need to purchase everything. And, most of the purchases included in this total have more parts than what is required for this project. For example, the linked micro servo pack comes with 4 servos, but only one is needed. Hope this helps!
Hello Build Very good excellent work. I'm printing and waiting for parts, I have a question: do the potentiometers have to be in a certain position when starting with Arduino? Greetings from Spain
Hello! Thanks! After the robot arm is fully wired and the code has been uploaded, when you power the robot on the servos will automatically move to match the position of the potentiometers after 5 seconds. I have incorporated the 5 second start delay so that users can line up the controller to roughly the same position as arm (so that the arm doesn’t move too fast to match the potentiometers). There may be a better way of doing this, but this is just what I implemented at the time.
Hello, thank you for your prompt response. In your video when you load the program the controller is fully assembled. My doubt is, in what range should the potentiometers be before mounting and closing the controller and before loading the program. I understand that the potentiometers before closing and loading the program must have a preset position for the correct movement of the arm. Forgive my clumsiness a greeting
@@manelangulo8352 Ah, I think I understand your question now. All of the potentiometers should be in their middle/halfway position (When the slot on the metal knob is parallel to the three pins' bracket on the bottom). Once the potentiometers have been set to their mid positions, all of the controller's pieces should only fit on one way. Sorry, I should have clarified this in the video. Hope this helps!
Hello Build. This is what I sensed, but I want to clarify it. When I receive all the pieces and assemble it I will let you know the result. greetings from Spain
how is this supposed to be only $40-$60? the main parts like servos and arduino are already over $80 and with everything else linked it would be over $200 i would assume these numbers are just the value of the parts used not how much for the linked parts
Looks like you can buy a set of three, four, five servos for as little as US$12. The 20 kg servo can also be purchased for under $20. You don’t have to use an Arduino branded board. You can use a knock off that’s Arduino compatible. You can also make it Wi-Fi and Bluetooth controlled by using an ESP 32 which is are doing a compatible. That might require a little investigation to get the wiring for the pins correct. Make sure to buy one that has pins that fits into a bread board. Servo’s can be purchased in bulk again. You could probably get 25 of them for nine dollars US. Wire is probably more expensive, but again you can buy in bulk for as little as $20. 3-D printer filament again a kilograms worth is probably about 20 bucks US$25. LEDs can be purchased in bulk for as little as seven bucks. Pushbutton switches can also be purchased in bulk. And the screws can be purchased as a set of sizes from M3 all the way up to M8 for as little as $20. So I’d say yes the cost is probably above US$40. The whole thing could probably be built for between 80 to 100 US$if you had to buy everything. But you can use any wire that you have that stranded. I’d say the power supply again is also something that you can buy. It’s probably a little more expensive. A rubber band should be available everywhere in anywhere. Some foam can also be from anywhere. I hope this helps
Dude, I just built this robot! It was so much work figuring all this stuff out without any tutorial. Watching this makes this a LOT much easier…
How much it cost at least?... what can do with it?😁
Do you know how to do it with stepper motor and a raspberry pi 😊
@@That_droper wow, no I dont't. But i also would't recommend this robot design for stepper motors. There are lots of other designs already made for stepper motors. (And raspberry pi) good luck
@@mica2237 thanks
1.59. When extending servo (etc.) wires, I have started staggering the solder joints. Using the wire colours in your video as an example, I would do this:
* Cut each set of wires 1cm longer than you have shown.
* Peel apart the ribbon cable, as shown in the video,
* Do nothing to the brown wire.
* Cut 1cm off the red wire.
* Cut 2cm off the orange wire.
* Now with the loose wires:
* Do nothing with the yellow wire.
* Cut 1cm off the red wire.
* Cut 2cm off the black wire.
* Slip a 4cm piece of shrink-wrap over ALL the wires.
* Solder the wires as shown in the video... the difference is that the joints will be offset from each other, so the soldered parts cannot touch.
* Shrink the wrap... the finished joint will be much thinner.
👍 😊
Great idea!!! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! :)
Great idea! TY 4 sharing😊
@@buildsomestuffhey I’m a big of and I was wondering if how would you do this with stepper motors?😊
I’m building this in year 7 and now it’s an example for year 10s thank you for the easy to understand tutorial
I made something similar in grade 6 now in grade 8 I’m trying to implement AI do you know how
@@coding32111 what do you want the ai to do
@@coding32111 also audio dosent have enough power for ai i think
@@coding32111 u can use some mcu s with AI
genuinley curious year 7 of what education ?
Great stuff indeed. Cant wait to see this channel blow up.
wanted to build something like this but just didnt know where to begin , thank you for taking the time to show us everything!
did u succeed in building it?
Damn, great videos. Can’t wait to see what else you come up with. Awesome step by step tutorials that can enable anyone to recreate your project. So good for learning.
I’ve just built it and it works perfectly 🎉. It’s incredible the smoothness of the movement and the cleverness of the design. Thank you for sharing this 🤩. The robot is now helping to automate biology experiments at Edinburgh.
Great I am going to build it as well, hope you help me if there are nay issues for me
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size.
- What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Dude, I have all of the exact hardware and wires you have down to the brand lol. You have it stacked in your video the way I have mine stacked on my shelf.
Perfect timing I was just going to start to make this thank you!
Great! No problem!
This is awesome! I recently bought my own 3d printer and this inspired me to try and design and make my own arm! Will definitely use this as a reference. Keep on making things dude!
Thank you for taking the time to create this video
Looks like a nice, clean work desk you have there.
You are a wonderful guide, thx.
I have everything ready and printed, looking forward to completing it. :)
hi can you please give more details regarding those 3 gear used, like their diameter size, no of teeth's and the hole size..
Me too
Just order the parts super excited thank you 🙏
Putting heat shrink on the end of your alligator clips for holding wires is a great life hack so you don't mar your wires whilst soldering. (one piece on each side of the jaw, then heat).
Very interesting and cool stuff bro!👍
Awesome work!
This is really cool!! I', building this now. just got my new bambu P1s with AMS and this is perfect first project on it.
Many thanks for the great project and tutorial
How many volts and how many amps is your power supply? Can the external board for the servo motors handle the required current? Thank you
I have the same question!
make sure the max current your 7V power supply provides is enough to power ALL servos, the arduino and plus extra for losses from wiring.
What voltage and amps should I use if I using a lithium battery would a 11v work
@@connorribera4198 11v should work for the arduino, but if the servos are 4.8v-7.2v, you should step down voltage going to them. for battery current, you have to look at the stall current of a servo, and add them all up, and add extra buffer.
Hello Im doing this project for class. With how many volts did you work on the power supply to make it work?
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size.
- What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
@@mr.q1880 did u find the answer?
@@mr.q1880 40 tooth 2 pc, 134 tooth 1pc
Hi so i am a student and i am doing a project where i am using brain waves to try and control a robot arm i dont really know what i am doing but i know that the brain waves can be used to control Arduino robots would there be a way for me to connect it to this build?
It's perfectly possible, but you need a computer in between that analyses the brain waves and translates them to the correct movements, which is all but a trivial task
can i ask why you used 20KG servo instead of the mg996r ? and can it be replaced by the mg996r ?
@@whitesugar188 I just used a 20kg servo on that particular joint because it has to lift the most weight. However, a standard serve should do, it’ll just be a bit jittery I’d imagine.
I have built your mimic controller to control my laser cut arm. I have a geared 360 degree servo for base 270 degree servos for movement and a 180 degree servo for claw. Eventually i would like to save movements to program replayable positioning.
How can i slow down the movement of the servos compared to the mimic robot arm they move too fast and slams the arm around. Is there simple code change i can use.
Hello, since I can't get the 20kg servo, I could replace it with another mg995 and if I can't get mg995 either, why could another servo motor replace it, more than anything, it's for a sample, not to carry something heavy.
hello i clicked to find the servos but it seems they are sold out , any other reference?
I believe they are back in stock now. If they still say "unavailable," it may be because they cannot ship to your region. Any servos of the same specifications should do.
I am assembled the robot. My gripper servo (SG90) just keeps rotating. Any specifics on which servo I need to use? I have checked and the ones I have got are not the continuous ones. Would appreciate any help as this is blocking my build.
Resolved. The servo I got were continuous rotation. It did not say anything on the label which caused the confusion. When ordering servo for gripper, please ensure you get ones that specify rotation angle = 180 degrees
May I ask why he opted for a 20kg servo instead of just 4 MG 996R ?
That is a torque rating. Since the 20kg servo is having to turn the whole mass of the arm, it benefits from higher torque than the 996r.
When you build it together, do you keep an eye at the position of the servos when screwing it together? I have the same 180°-Servos for it but one joint isnt working correctly. Its only moving a small way.
Is there a replacement for the three gears used?
All the other parts are available locally, and I don't prefer to buy the gears' kit online.
So, can I print these gears or something?
Hello. Did you find the solution of gear problem? Please let me know.
I want to put the circuit together before printing parts, just to test everything, but in the circuit diagram I don’t know which motor is which. Could you tell me which motor is which from top to bottom on the motor? The one labeled hand is obvious, but I want to be super sure. Thanks
Certainly! The servos are listed in descending order starting from the “hand.” So, from top to bottom on the diagram is from the gripper to the base on the model.
Is that hi torque servo motor necessary
It is not required, and another standard servo may work. However, I would recommend using it in the joint shown to reduce jittering. (Because, that joint will need to lift the most weight)
Thhhhhhhhhank you a lot 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Very crazy idea and clear tutorial.
great and easy to follow tutorials. Do the servos need to be 360 degrees? I assume yes, but just making sure
@@patrickhaidu1956 Thanks! I just used 180° servos for this project.
Great model, I assembled it and am working on using ROS2 for better control of the arm (I got inverse kinematics working with arduino code though). Could you possibly send me or publish the STEP files of each component so that I can assemble it in onshape to export as a URDF file? Thanks!
Great topic, thanks 👍
hi i got all the components and i connect all but stll it is not working can u suggest any method to get succeses i cant find the m
istak
Awesome project! In the middle of building it. What kind of power supply should I use? How much power? Tnx in advance!
Thanks! I’m using an adjustable power supply (linked in description) and running it at 7 volts. But really, any 7V power supply that's rated for at least 5 Amps should do.
Nice, tnx for the response. Do have a particular model that comes to mind?
@@nickijssels6192 No problem! This is the adjustable power supply I use: amzn.to/46e27Xa
If you are buying servos and other parts already you might as well just save time and effort and buy servo extension cables. They are cheap, come in loads of lengths and means you don’t need to solder.
I built it on a breadboard but am having trouble getting it to work. The code loads fine. Does it need power from both the Arduino and the servo driver board? what is the voltage to the driver board? Is the breadboard schematic correct. I didn't want to start printing parts until I knew we could wire it correctly.
i love this
helping a lot for my exbhition arduino project
thanks a lot
hi... wick type of potensiometer did you use because there is such 5k, 10k, 20k or above etc. for the controler
Hello! 10k pots for the controller! I’ve linked the exact ones I used in the description.
I have built this, but for some reason whenever I turn it on the robot arm doesn't mirror what the controller is doing. The wrist potentiometer is corresponding to the base servo, but nothing else works. I have rewired it, and changed out Arduinos and it still doesn't work. Is there a possibility I got faulty code? What else could be wrong? Thanks.
i want to build a university project any suggestion should i do this ?
Wonderful project mate, Just a suggestion, you can get premade servo extension cables for future projects
Really cool! How accurate is this robot?
what's the estimated cost of all the parts? excluding 3d printer stuff
Hello! While the material cost is relatively low at around $60. The total cost to purchase everything upfront is much higher at around $200. However, this is assuming that you have none of the suggested parts and would need to purchase everything. And, most of the purchases included in this total have more parts than what is required for this project. For example, the linked micro servo pack comes with 4 servos, but only one is needed. Hope this helps!
You’re a gem
Can we used arduino nano for this project?
I believe it’s possible! You might need to look up how to connect the PCA9685 Servo Driver Module the Nano, though.
what is the diameter of each of the gears ?
Hello. Did you find the solution of gear problem? Please let me know.
Thank you so much!
I have a 3D printer but don't know how to design this... are the designs for this shared? Thank you.
Yep! Links in description along with a full list of parts!
@@buildsomestuff Yes, just saw it, thanks!
@@sohamsaxena1256 No problem!
Hallo,was ist denn mit dem kleinen Arm,wie wird der zusammengebaut?
Hello! The small arm is explained in Part 2 of this tutorial. The explanation begins at around 4:45 in Part 2 and its wiring can be found in the description.
I really Like the design. Maybe i will split some parts in order to ease printing and to reduce need for Support Material. Would also be nice to have .scad files, as they make modifications more easy.
Thanks! Great idea to reduce supports! Unfortunately, I do not believe I am able to export designs as .scad files from Fusion 360. However, this link will take you to the Fusion and .step files for this arm/controller: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1x4P8AquQILwCp8e5CiRJLfVJiJn2U4cF?usp=sharing Hope this helps!
can you use 12volts thanks
Unfortunately, the PCA9685 Module is only rated for 5 to 10 volts.
@@buildsomestuff Thank you so could you use 2 amp 5volts
@@cuan_piano That may work, but I would recommend a 7V (3 amp) power supply.
What do you use to power the PCA9685 Servo Driver Board?
I am trying to build my own robot and have the issue of powering the servo driver. It needs 5V but my breadboard power supply module outputs only 500mA. Every other power supply is eighter 12V (or more) or is really expensive.
I noticed you didn't list any quantities in your parts list. Am I wrong in assuming I need to order just one of each of the parts/sets/items listed in the material list above?
Can you make a tutorial on how to model this?
I just printed the piece of the main arm. The one that the motor is not mounted to. The material that connects the bearing the the arm is super thin. It snapped under light pressure. Maybe 1mm? Is that by design or did it not print properly?
Looking forward to trying out your design.
I also have the same problem, have you resolved it yet?
@@mr.q1880 I haven't had time. Writing finals now. I'll put it into NX or solid works and see if I can beef it up
I currently want build a robotic arm but i dont have a 3d printer. Do you know if theres a way to build my own without a 3d printer like i can buy all the parts somewhere thats also cost effective?
I would recommend buying a chassis online that’s what I did then add my own edits with wood and drilling also I think there are place that will let you order custom chassis
May I know the dimension of the used gears? I am planning to also 3d print the 40T and 34T gears
Did u get the dimension of the gears?
@@phonethetkhine3244 unfortunately not😥
@@phonethetkhine3244 unfortunately not. do you have any idea?
what's the diameter of the 40 tooth gear and the 34 tooth one? Please respond, i don't live in a zone where amazon ships.
Hello. Did you find the solution of gear problem? Please let me know.
So cool! Looking to buy a 3d printer soon. What's the minimum bed size I would need for the size of these parts?
Thanks! That’s awesome! The standard 220 x 220 mm bed size will easily fit all of the pieces. You will just have to distribute the parts in groups to print them all. In other words, the standard bed size volume won’t be able to fit all of the parts in just one print. Hope this helps!
@@buildsomestuff thanks for such a fast reply! That makes perfect sense thanks!
@@jobydorr4267 No problem!
Is there a BOM or anything for the build?
Figuring out which gear to use is frustrating given a big pack of unmarked gears. I bought the gears using the link you provided but I am only coming up with 38 and 42 toothed gears. None of which have the diameter or lay flush as your gears seem to do in the video. Did you cut the guide rod bearing off? Also the hole diameter is much smaller with the linked gears than an m4 can go through. Is the link for the gears on amazon accurate?
I also bought the same one as listed in the description and i found the 34 and one 40 tooth gear, as for the other 40 tooth gear i took one which had 40 tooth and some small gear attached end i cut that part off. as to make it flush i simply cut the bits that extended outwards off. i hope this helps
@@mihaichici It does. I figured something like that had to be done. Thanks for the confirmation/reply!
@@isaiahnelson3643 hi can you please give more details regarding those 3 gear used, like their diameter size, no of teeth's and the hole size..
@@mihaichici hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size.
- What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
Hello, excellent video. I would like to know where I can get the 4 gears or if you have the stl to print
Am I able to do this with a raspberry pi? Also, can I program the servo movements directly?
How did you make the motions so smooth with software? My potentiometer readings fly all over the place and the motors just tic and twitch all the time.
Or am I having bad connections? Hmmm
Hello, I´m a teacher on a High School in Germany, exactly in Bavaria. I´m very, very impressed of Your project and I want to make it with my pupils. Is it possible if You press the button on the gripper and simulate a movement with the small robot included the potis that the robot can repeat this movement automatically? Is there an additional button necessary for save and repeat the automatically movement? Kind regards Michael
Is it 40 or 42 teeth gear? I think there is a bit of confusion on the video about it
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size.
- What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
loved your work...can u please guide me to make same robot arm but with record and play type
Thanks! I haven’t experimented with record and play functionality much, but it has been done before. I believe it requires some sort of storage device (such as a Raspberry Pi) to store all of the positions. You could probably find some helpful videos covering the topic in depth here on RUclips.
Are you making this wireless
Currently, I have no plans to make this wireless. However, it’s certainly possible!
@@buildsomestuff how
@@SeemaChandra-m6uinstead of arduino You could use an ESP 32 or similar and easily implement WiFi
Wouldn't Arduino have handled 4 different servo without the board?
Hello! While running servos directly off of the Arduino is less complicated, it can become impractical when controlling more than just a couple servos. Since I need to power 5 servo motors for this arm, it would draw too much current through the Arduino’s 5V pin and possibly fry the board altogether. The PCA9685 Module supplies power directly from an external power supply to prevent this from happening, which allows me to control up to 16 servos without worrying about burning up the micro controller. Hope this helps!
I love this project❤❤❤❤
I bulild this but every motor foesent move, to except for the 20g one, which moves with the wrong servo 😢 can anybody please help
Already printed, electronics already delivered...
Successfully made?
Yo, where is the update?…. Did you finally put it all together and fully functional?
You have some results??
could you tell me the dimensions of the gears that you used? I am going to 3d print gears but don't know the dimensions
Hello. Did you find the solution of gear problem? Please let me know.
muy bueno gracias voy a intentar construir uno
Looks great! im going to try modify it a bit, to make it into glados from portal 2... idk how well it will go but im excited anyway. could you test if it works while upside down?
Is there an easy way to count the gear teeth? ⚙️ the pack has so many
hello, could you please provide more details about those 3 gears used, like their diameter size, number of teeth and hole size.
- What type of 4 servo motors are here (180 degrees or 270 degrees or 360 degrees)?
@@mr.q1880 I took some caliper measurements. 40 tooth gear measured 20.7mm and the 34 tooth gear measured 17.75mm.
Could you print the gears?
thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏
how much money for all the materials?
Hello! While the material cost is relatively low at around $60. The total cost to purchase everything upfront is much higher at around $200. However, this is assuming that you have none of the suggested parts and would need to purchase everything. And, most of the purchases included in this total have more parts than what is required for this project. For example, the linked micro servo pack comes with 4 servos, but only one is needed. Hope this helps!
very helpful!! Thank you so much!@@buildsomestuff
@@RMac No problem!
Hello Build Very good excellent work.
I'm printing and waiting for parts, I have a question: do the potentiometers have to be in a certain position when starting with Arduino?
Greetings from Spain
Hello! Thanks! After the robot arm is fully wired and the code has been uploaded, when you power the robot on the servos will automatically move to match the position of the potentiometers after 5 seconds. I have incorporated the 5 second start delay so that users can line up the controller to roughly the same position as arm (so that the arm doesn’t move too fast to match the potentiometers). There may be a better way of doing this, but this is just what I implemented at the time.
Hello, thank you for your prompt response.
In your video when you load the program the controller is fully assembled.
My doubt is, in what range should the potentiometers be before mounting and closing the controller and before loading the program.
I understand that the potentiometers before closing and loading the program must have a preset position for the correct movement of the arm.
Forgive my clumsiness
a greeting
@@manelangulo8352 Ah, I think I understand your question now. All of the potentiometers should be in their middle/halfway position (When the slot on the metal knob is parallel to the three pins' bracket on the bottom). Once the potentiometers have been set to their mid positions, all of the controller's pieces should only fit on one way. Sorry, I should have clarified this in the video. Hope this helps!
Hello Build.
This is what I sensed, but I want to clarify it.
When I receive all the pieces and assemble it I will let you know the result.
greetings from Spain
@@manelangulo8352 Great!
I can't Fit the Micro sever in the Gripr peace
Make a virtual model and use that as the controller or just use the parameters of the motors or whatever the joints are.
Very great project. Which cable diameter do I need for this?
Thanks! I used 28 AWG wire for this arm. (~1.2mm diameter)
Thnx.
YeeaaaAHH FINALLY
perfect
yyeesssss amazing
If you need I design the gears on fusion 360
hi i need
Id also like thos if possible :)
Please send my way
Where is the link?
Please give me the design of gears
Why is it going to cost me 160$ on amazon i need answers plsss
Oh crap ... 'i aint gonna sleep much that week .... it would seem😅
Yes, I can if you mean me
how is this supposed to be only $40-$60? the main parts like servos and arduino are already over $80 and with everything else linked it would be over $200 i would assume these numbers are just the value of the parts used not how much for the linked parts
Looks like you can buy a set of three, four, five servos for as little as US$12. The 20 kg servo can also be purchased for under $20. You don’t have to use an Arduino branded board. You can use a knock off that’s Arduino compatible. You can also make it Wi-Fi and Bluetooth controlled by using an ESP 32 which is are doing a compatible. That might require a little investigation to get the wiring for the pins correct. Make sure to buy one that has pins that fits into a bread board. Servo’s can be purchased in bulk again. You could probably get 25 of them for nine dollars US. Wire is probably more expensive, but again you can buy in bulk for as little as $20. 3-D printer filament again a kilograms worth is probably about 20 bucks US$25. LEDs can be purchased in bulk for as little as seven bucks. Pushbutton switches can also be purchased in bulk. And the screws can be purchased as a set of sizes from M3 all the way up to M8 for as little as $20. So I’d say yes the cost is probably above US$40. The whole thing could probably be built for between 80 to 100 US$if you had to buy everything. But you can use any wire that you have that stranded. I’d say the power supply again is also something that you can buy. It’s probably a little more expensive. A rubber band should be available everywhere in anywhere. Some foam can also be from anywhere. I hope this helps
Transform it into a regulated wireless system.
did bro just 3d print a 3d printer?