How to Replace Radiator 2004-2009 Toyota Prius

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New Radiator from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ib/1ARAD01347
This video shows you how to install a new radiator from TRQ on your 2004-2009 Toyota Prius. Overheating is a sure sign there’s something wrong with your cooling system. A leak, rust, or obstructions are all cases that may require a radiator replacement. Install a new TRQ radiator that’s engineered to fit your vehicle.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2004 Toyota Prius
2005 Toyota Prius
2006 Toyota Prius
2007 Toyota Prius
2008 Toyota Prius
2009 Toyota Prius
Tools you will need:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/obrT/1AXAA00013
• Phillips Head Screwdriver 1aau.to/obrT/1AXAA00013
• 10mm Wrench 1aau.to/o2i/1AXAA00010
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/o2i/1AXAA00010
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/obkA/1AXAA00017
• 12mm Socket 1aau.to/obFW/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oaom/1AXAA00043
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/obkA/1AXAA00017
• Trim Tool Set 1aau.to/oah3/1AXXX00006
• Hose Clamp Pliers 1aau.to/ogo/1AXAA00076
• Hose Pliers
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oFb/1AXAA00051
• Needle nose pliers 1aau.to/oFb/1AXAA00052
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oaND/1AXAA00044
• Gloves 1aau.to/oapt/1AXSS00048
• Safety Glasses
• Drain Pan
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oacF/1AXAA00068
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oZq/1AXAA00065
• Pick 1aau.to/oSV/1AXAA00037
• Wheel Chocks
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

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[@mynabull]

Just finished this job and here's my experience and notes:
-If you live in Midwest or anywhere with rust, be prepared for bolts breaking off like in 7:10. PB Blaster, patience, and some drill bits/screw extractors will make your life easier. Anticipate adding more time for dealing with rusted bolts like I did.
-At 8:03: Highly recommend a good set of radiator hose pliers. I got a set on Amazon for like 30 bucks but it was super helpful with the rusted springs. Speaking of which, I ended up buying some 1 inch diameter
-At 10:18, I also drained the expansion tank on the driver's side door underneath the fender. If you're replacing all the coolant, might as well get as much as possible.
-14:07: I had to cut off this clamp with a dremel.
-14:47: Be patient with the bolts. I used a induction bolt heater that I bought for a previous project ($200 , well worth it)
-15:15: I didn't bother taking the screw off since it was so rusted. You can remove the radiator without this bolt by angling and finessing the radiator under the bracket.
-15:33: I ended up cutting this bolts out. Replacement bolts are M5 0.8x25mm. I got a pack of 3 with a hex head from Home Depot for about 3 dollars.
-19:32: I'm sure worm clamps are fine for most people, but I went with constant torsion springs instead that better match the factory clamps. Since the coolant hoses expand and contract, I was afraid of worm clamps not securing the hoses tighly enough. A pack of constant torsion clamps (about 1.5 in diameter) worked well.
-20:22: Took me a while a to get the fan in place. Make sure to go slowly and avoid damaging the fan/radiator in the process. Removing some of the hose clips and reinstalling them from underneath the car helped with angling the fan.
-At 21:50: I went with constant torsion clamps instead of the worm gear. I grabbed a couple from the same hose at a junkyard but Toyota dealerships carry them for about 8 bucks. There's two sizes, with the one attaching to the radiator having a bigger diameter (about 15 mm).
30:34: Get a no-spill funnel to make the bleeding easier. EyesonAiman on RUclips has an excellent tutorial series on how to properly bleed the ICE and inverter coolant tanks. Start by burping the hot coolant reservoir near the driver's side wheel well. Highly recommend those videos to make sure no air bubbles are trapped in the system.
Overall, not the worst job in the world, but definitely time consuming and expect complications/much more added time if you deal with any rust at all.

[@kevind3883]

Looks like a nightmare job