I really appreciate your clear, concise but very informative descriptions. The ability to see the differences between paint types being applied and the differences using various air tips was a missing part of every other review I have watched. Your video editing is also top notch. You provided great value to this viewer. I just subscribed! Thanks again.
Just getting into HVLP and looking to see how I'd use it, this was super useful. Definitely a little bit daunting when you see all the adjustments and whatnot but this definitely made it a little more clear.
I had to watch a lot of videos to get to yours and I'm glad I had the patience. Thank you very much! That's what I needed. (I've been doing it all wrong!)
Your attention to all the small details is exactly what i was looking for. I have a very similar Fuji spray setup you use in this video and i'm looking to spray Advance with it so this video was very helpful. The results you achieved with the 1.3 cap set was very impressive. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for this presentation. I just finished this process and concluded there are many more variables at play than merely using a stop watch and Ford cup and trying to match them with generic viscosity / tip / sprayer tables. The reality of this process is that each gun, tip, AND paint behaves differently, AND together they all behave differently depending on site conditions and the materials being painted. The best "formulas" require the care and diligence of some trail and error. There are no short cuts to the time spent doing test runs to achieve one's desired results. You are a real pro. Thanks again.
You are the only person I have found that really seems to have a great grasp on HVLP spraying. Thanks for the info man! I have asked so many people in the paint industry questions like how to mix paint and for my Titan 115 HVLP. I just keep hearing if you add to much water it ruins the paint. All I know is if the paint is not the right viscosity then it sprays like shit if it even sprays at all. 👍🏻
Some history, I’m a painting contractor of 45 yrs, we had some great acrylics in the early 80’s, thinned down nicely but needed airless higher pressure to squeeze them to properly atomize them through smaller orifice tips to produce a finer finish to match oil base somewhat. It all came down as you say playing with different tips sizes to material viscosity. If I thinned a lot, I layered medium wet coats, waited until a lot of the water dried out, applied another wetter coat at the right time so the second coat would melt into the first creating a nice flow out creating less orange peel. This was applied to vertical doors which is much harder to do than flat spraying. Thin coats as you were spraying requiring so many coats and sanding between them is not so cost effective depending on your bid. Water borne products thin out quite a lot when dry. So you see why it’s important to get a good mil thickness before you lose your shirt taking so much labor time doing so many coats. We do custom work at production speeds. We learn over many years to get the best finish in the shortest amount of time .Actually I found a left over can of what I believe is a hybrid material, smells kinda like oil base paint, but might just be an alkyd resin formula. This product has super good hide, and finely ground pigments. Probably a great spraying material. Water clean up, I really didn’t think it was water base, the smell and ease of brushing application made it feel like oil. These hybrids just might be the key for the hvlp’s. They usually need a lot of thinning for water base materials, which I hate for many reasons. I use the graco 9.5 pro comp hvlp. I use a remote cup with a separate air supply for fluid separate from turbine air. The 5 stage air supply and fluid pressure to the remote cup allows you to spray heavier unthinned material. Sometimes a lot more air to fluid pressure is needed Having the freedom to spray in tighter areas without a cup under setup is so ideal. I’m yet to try my air-assisted airless with the newer graco FFLP tips at half the airless pressure. Hvlp is just too slow and thinning material is not the best way to go. I use the rac x tip guard but that introduces air differently than the flat tip air nozzle for the graco g-40 gun. This gun and setup produced an auto body finish without thinning a water base acrylic finish right in front of me with a graco rep doing the spraying. This again was sprayed on a large sample card , spraying vertical, no runs possible with unthinned material. I’ve just about sprayed everything over my career. If you get an air assisted airless, it needs a hopper on top. You can put a qt in the gravity fed hopper, run smaller diameter super flexible airless/combined attached air hose. 25 ft lengths so smaller material amounts can save on waste. This is the ideal way to produce a super finish that resembles automotive finishes.
Thanks for the thoughtful and informative post. Agree 100% that while he gets a beautiful result, the time required for 3-4 thin coats w/ sanding is not insignificant . Throw in the 14-16 hour recoat time of Advance, and even for someone not concerned with profit... It gets tough. The "hybrid" you describe sounds just like Advance. I'm wondering if a Fuji Q5 is going to be able to spray Advance with minimal thinning (or unthinned). Mine gets here in a few days, so we will find out. Finally, I hear great things about AAA and paints like Advance. Issue with that is it is a big hassle when spraying smaller quantities.
Your video is amazing I wish you would make more spray finishing videos! To start off, I know nothing about spray finishing but wanna buy a Fuji Q5 to use for projects. RUclips and the Internet have been my teacher and this video breaks it down the best.This video was very creative and informative! showing us important information especially that last shot with a 1.3 reflection. This video was extremely helpful for me since I am now researching the different tip options
Here's a recent project I did and sprayed the finish on. This is from my other RUclips channel, Fixing Furniture - ruclips.net/video/zjP6PpPvHgY/видео.html
Hi, you have just endorsed what my experience and logic has told me. After many years as a car sprayer in the late 60s the enemy was always orange peel, now in my 70s I haven’t forgotten my spraying ability nor the practical element which was to spray many thin coats and flatten in between. From a commercial point of view I realise there is a temptation to load thick coats to make it cover but I have plenty of time so thin it is with BM advanced. I watched a video where the guy was spraying BM advanced commercially where he thinned it down with masses of water, believe he said 50% and never had a problem reported to him. So 1.3 tip and around 20 seconds through the viscosity cup provided with my 4 stage Fugj. Wish me luck. 👍
Scott, hey. So you are one of the few sources out there trying to do exactly the same as me. A quality HVLP System (not adding a cheapo gun onto a high-pressure compressor and add-on regulator and cheapo gun), spraying on raw wood and not respraying old kitchen cabinets, and using Waterborne BM Advance hybrid paint. I am using 1.3 Fuji spray tip on my Q4 Platinum and still thinning down by eye until I think the paint appears to run off the stir stick with the viscosity others using Latex paint not Advance demonstrate. The first project I was likely not using enough paint and ended up working the sprayer like an airgun dusting it on and never got a wet coat so the leveling properties of Advance never likely had much of a chance - it turned out okay but appeared a bit rough. This project is a much bigger one and has tons of parts, so I am mixing a lot of primer and paint. Now I am thinning out more than before and getting wetter coats on and they are much smoother especially after lightly sanding the primer and getter that layer very smooth. BUT now I am still seeing grain pattern similar to what you demonstrate after 1 prime coat, 1 paint coat. I was planning on 2 coats of paint. What have you ended up with over the past couple of years now using Advance on raw wood? still using the 1.3? adjusting the paint dilution up or down any and changing the tips? how many coats? Thanks for any help.
Hi Peter. For spray finishes, they go on much thinner than painting with a brush, therefore they need more coats of paint. I recommend 2 coats of primer on bare wood, sanding after each, then 4-5 coats of paint for a quality finish. I hope that helps. Scott
Got the same HVLP with 3 stages, very useful, thank you. I haven't tested it yet but I got worried that it might be not powerful enough to spray a thing SW paint, happy to find that it is possible to get the decent result.
9:41 thank you. I’ve had a Fuji for a while and love it BUT. you disproved an important’rule’ which is that thicker paint = larger air cap set. Seems that the material properties other than just viscosity need to be tied to a particular air cap.
Hey, Scott. I like how you kept from jumping to conclusions before you undertook the testing. It's interesting how your tests come up with different recommendations from those of others... and that's because you weren't afraid to try out the various aircap sets you had. Most of the other videos I've seen talk about 2.0mm capsets. However, the important conclusion you came up with, is that there is no one aircap that will work for all latex paints. It's all so dependent on the particular latex you're wanting to apply.
Preparation is the key to a good finish . I use a hvlp turbine system and have done for 8 years now and have found to get the best results use the smallest air cap needle set you can get away with and maximum air flow to give greater atomisation.If I'm spraying metal flake then a1.8 will be max size .Automotive paints I tend to use a 1.mm set up for all stages even with all the high solids products while achieving glass like finishes.It is also dependent on what size turbine you are using,if you have a 5 stage unit then you very rarely need to thin a product to spray which in turn gives you greater coverage with less passes .The psi is also around 10psi for a 5 stage unit and between 5-7 psi for a 3 stage unit with varying cfm airflow which really effects atomisation.The key is to get a happy medium where you get minimum overspray and bounce back with less thinning as possible with maximum atomisation to achieve a great finish .The only area that can cause issue is remember that turbines also dry the paint your using so distance from your work piece and speed of application will have an effect also .
DIY Guy Home owner good morning & in answer to your question a 5 stage unit allows you to spray coatings with less or no thinning depending upon product and gun set up . It's always nice to have the extra power and most 5 stage units are variable for PSI . I have used a 3 stage unit for years and I've sprayed cars ,motorcycles ,kitchen units garden rails fence panels etc etc but thinning was required with some coatings to aid flow out .I also run with a pressure pipe to the cup and pps this also really helps .However I must say the appollo 5 stage gives fantastic results combined with the 7500 gun .
The more stages, the more power for atomizing the paint. You don't need the most powerful HVLP unit out there to get good results. Here's a link to one of the articles I used to help make my decision. I use the 3-stage unit by Fuji, and I've had great results. www.fujispray.com/Fine%20Woodworking%20Article%20-%20SprayforLess%202014
I highly recommend a kitchen scale for dialing in and having every coat come out same. Here is what I do - filled my cup 3/4 of way with BM advance and put that on a kitchen scale. Found closest 10 grams and topped it off. Then i used viscosity cup once to get a feel to how i thought the flow was good compared to times in manual. When happy I put the mixed paint back on scale and now I have a replicatable mix. I know this sounds like overkill but it is way faster to mix each batch when using viscosity cup, it is even faster then eye balling. And it is 100% replicatable. You also have something you can find tune between batches if you feel that the first batch didn't spray the way you wanted
Excellent video man really went into depth And gave me a whole new perspective on painting, and how huge of a difference it can be with something you might not think it’s so significant but really is if that makes any sense. Also when your voice I don’t know something about a man super soothing relaxing. Thanks again
I’ve been looking at thee Fuji spray systems myself. This tutorial was very helpful and informative. Excellent comparisons…Going over to look at your post on thinning water based paints 👍
This is a vert informative video! Trying to dial in my fuji q5 now and I have a couple questions: 1. It seems like you really dialed down the fluid control to minimum so that you get a good atomization (fine, even pattern with no large dots), and you only did one pass when spraying. Wouldn't this leave dry spot on the surface? 2. If you are spraying a thin coat each time, do you have to wait 16 hours for recoat? It seems like waiting 16 hours between each recoat makes this whole process last a week. Thanks, I appreciate if you can answer these questions!
Thanks for showing the different outcomes for the fuji tips. I've been shooting base with 1.8 but have the other tips. Will experiment with the 1.3 and 1.5 and might just change my tips........
My lesson out of this testing is that finishes perform differently, so it's definitely worth the effort to do some testing to get the best performance. Scott
Now I'm even more excited to get my HVLP in, Ordered a Titan Capspray. One Question I have is: Can I use the same gun for Latex, Oil, and Lacquer products? I know in a perfect world I'd have a gun for each but at an extra $300 it's not really an immediate option.
Yes, you can use the same spray gun for all types of finishes. Be careful though with flammable finishes so you don't cause a fire - there are a lot of precautions you need to take to be safe. Have fun with your new toy!
Hi Scott, Thanks for sharing all your information. I'm in the learning curve, and I would like to buy like a swiss army knife for all the diverse projects a DIY Homeowner can face. I would like to paint from exterior/interior aluminum windows trims, walls, old furniture waiting for facelift etc, everything with the same tool as much as possible In the past, I bought an HVLP dewalt spray gun which I never used when I realized my compressor would struggle to spray something thick like latex as it was 1.5mm nozzle due to the low CFM, so I thought a need more power. So I did research about a bigger, bulky and compressor that would require either 230volts or an gas engine to make it work HVLPto handle 7CFM. Then I revised a semi pro $500 airless sprayer when I realized they can handle latex fine but with high detail finished they will struggle and it represents a waste of paint for small projects having to even prime those systems IMHO, so they only save you time and probably effort but nothing else So, at the end, I realized than an HVLP turbine would be probably the smarter choice for a painting different projects, but now I'm hesitating about the number of stages required. I was happy with the idea of a 2 stage Fuji Hobby pro, but realized it was not powerful to handle something like exterior latex properly unless you want your latex milkshake to become 2% milk. so I'm between fuji mini mite 3, 4 and mini mite 5, and buying several expensive nozzles as you ahve in this video. It's a $245 difference more for the stage 5 (here in Canada) for the 6 foot hose, a heavy-duty 25 feet hose apparently more robust than the fuji 4 or 3, the cleaning kit and a couple of extra filters and 1 additional stage, but only 0.5 psi more power. It's worth a stage 5 or a 4? Iu understood the more stages, the thicker material I can spray, Nevertheless, after watching your video about thinning the paint, and the comparison between these 3 finishes, now a doubt came after, which is, you compared the 3 tips but your paints had different thinning grades or not? (for the same paint). For instance with the heavy BM white paint you used, when you used the 1.3 tip it was like 2% milk? My first project would be to paint my faded aluminum windows trims with an already bought paint that includes the primer (Exterior Duration from SW) which is thick like ice cream. Im concerned about thinning it too much, and losing bonding properties of the primer included. I know mini mite is more woodworking which I also love to work and do, but I would like the swiss knife for everything :) is that too much to ask for? What are your thoughts
Thanks for your detailed question. I appreciate the challenges of finding the right spray tool, as my journey in spraying research took me 15 years. I've had great experience talking with the people at Fuji Spray - they're very supportive. My gut is telling me the exterior paint would be best used with an airless sprayer, typically used for large areas that don't require a fine finish. I'm not sure if a turbine could spray that finish without a lot of change to the viscosity. When I tested the two paints, I thinned them to the same viscosity. I strongly recommend using a viscosity cup to measure this.... the Fuji Spray units come with one. I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Scott
I purchased the Fuji Mini Mite 4, but I have been experiencing orange peel issues, even when just using a primer. Specifically, I have been using SW Extreme Blocker Oil Based primer, which had an out-of-can viscosity of 45s. I thinned 10% and later to 15% but still get orange peel, and when I spray vertically, I even get runs when thinned so much. I have experimented with different fan sizes and flow rates, but I am still not getting the fine finish I desire. I have been using a 1.8mm tip as that is what Fuji recommends for oil based and enamel paints, but I cannot get it to spray a fine-looking finish. I am going to try a smaller tip and see how that does. I will be using Sherwin Williams Emerald Enamel for the paint and expect it to be even more difficult to get a fine finish, not to mention Sherwin Williams state the paint should not be thinned as mess with the chemistry. Any suggestions to try to get a smooth fine finish.
Good side by side comparison. I recently purchased a Fuji Q5 and my first attempt was riddled with orange peel. I used a 1.3 nozzle. My problem was, the paint was too thick. I know that now. I also bought a 0.8 and 1.0 nozzle to experiment.
I've had success moving pieces to a drying rack to there's something above the wet surface. It helps to keep dust from settling on it. It would also help to have a clean spray room, but I don't think most of us have the luxury. After a finish, you can rub out dust particles... it's the last step of finishing and there are various techniques for doing that. Find a good finishing book and it will discuss rubbing techniques. I hope that helps. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking thank you! I managed to improve the finishing a little bit by cleaning the nozzle after every piece I’m spraying. I noticed the dusts were more frequent to the last pieces. Another thing that helped a bit was to use a fan blowing the overspray outside my garage (I keep about one foot open)
I have an older mini mite 3 and it came with an H4 cap and tip set. I'm about to spray my cabinets with KM Dura-Poxy. Based on one of your other videos, I purchased a Ford#4 viscosity cup. Wish me luck.
I would like to see that same test, but with SW Emerald Urethane and Milesi. I am about to invest in hvlp or fflp(airless). It seems split between the two tip technologies now. People have been spraying un-thinned Milesi with a 310/308 fflp tips and with 1.8mm hvlp cap sets with great results. Thanks for you videos.
Thanks for your suggestion Ken. Unfortunately, I can't get to that soon with over a dozen projects on my plate. I will add it to our video idea list though. Thanks. Scott
Can’t seem to find out if you’re supposed to clean the gun between coats or if it’s fine being left as is until the paint dries and you’re ready for another coat. Help?
Couple questions: What is a good starting point for setting the air pressure to the gun. What is the difference as it relates to your settings between the paint gun you show and the gravity feed paint gun. I have the gravity feed gun.
I haven't used a gravity feed gun, but I'm guessing the controls are similar. I start setting the air flow at a medium-high level to test the finish. I adjust the fluid control knob until I get something close to what I'm looking for, then I back off the air flow. The lower your air flow, the better as you get less bounce back on the finish. If it's too low, your finish won't atomize well, so it's a balancing act that changes for each finish. Once I get the air flow to where I think it needs to be, I readjust the fluid flow to fine tune the spray. Does that help?
Thank you for your video! If you thined the paint down less with the larger cap sizes would it still orange peel? My understanding was the lager cap sets were for thicker liquids. I recently did a cabinet set with Ben Moore Command using a 2.5 tip and no thinning the paint. I got really good results, the command is pretty thin on its own.
You're correct, the larger cap size is designed for thicker viscosity. Orange peel depends on a few factors which is why testing products are so important when working with a new finish. I hope that helps. Scott
@@barnes80 I've never got great results spraying Emerald Urethane though HVLP, thinning it down really cuts the durability of the paint and adds to its cure time. but have got amazing results spaying it though my airless with a Graco FF 315 tip, no thinning necessary
Really good step by step process for dialing in the sprayer! What is the dry time between coats and how many coats is on the finished piece at the Randy of the video ?
The dry time between coats was about an hour. The Advance test was 8 coats, but I did very light coats for the purpose of the test. In practice, it would take about 4 coats on horizontal boards, with sanding part way through.
Why so many coats though! I just do 2 primer and 2 or 3 finish coats. It’s usually does have orange peel though, I used emerald urethane sw with Fuji t-75 gravity 1.3 tip, should I just keep spraying?
Sprayed finishes go on thinner than brushed-on finishes, therefore you need more coats to build up the finish. There is a tool you can use to measure the thickness of the finish when it's wet to understand how thick you're applying it.
I recently bought the Fuji sprayer. Your video is very helpful in learning more about it. Thank you! I do have one thought after watching it. I had no idea you had to sand. I was hoping the Fuji sprayer would save me time in painting but if I have to sand the paint after I spray my walls that actually seems way more time consuming than painting with a brush. Hopefully they'll let me return it 😄
If you're painting walls, I wound't sand after painting. I use my Fuji Spray gun to finish furniture with a higher quality finish than I can get by hand. For walls, you won't need the paint that smooth. Does that answer your question? Scott
Great video. With the Advance, when cleaning the gun, can you do so with just soap and water? Or, given that it’s a hybrid paint, did you find you needed to use a solvent?
I use warm water to clean out the spray gun. I run a full quart of water through it to clear the paint from the interior parts. I hope that helps. Scott
Nice video I see the 1.3 tips do great job. I have the same sistem fuji Q4 with 1.3 tips and I learning paint cabinet. My boss want I use a Lowes cabinet paint that its too thick and I mix with water to make more fine but some time the gun still spill the paint and no look good. What advice can you give me abouth this about mix or use a diferent tips? Wish# and tipe of sand paper you use betwin coat? You diluit that paint wit water or specific water? Thanks for your help
To learn how to mix paint, watch the details in this video - ruclips.net/video/iPdjoDGe1mk/видео.html I don't understand what you mean about the "gun still spill the paint". Do you mean you get paint dripping? If so, this is about painting technique, not about the paint. When you apply too much paint at once, it will run. This is typically on inside corners where the paint will gather quickly. I use a 400 grit non-clogging sandpaper by Norton. It lasts much longer than traditional sandpaper. I hope that helps. Scott
My opinion: OMG, got even better results with budget 30$ HVLP pistol and 150$ budget compressor. 3:50 - pretty much no atomization :( The 1.3 finish is the only one that seems to have a good viscosity setup. 1.8mm at 3:48, way to thick viscosity, sure it eggshells. 1.3 4:50, does look like spitting ; not a sanding issue. As well it seems the compressor is delivering very little air volume, additionally with a cup system pretty hard to dial it in. What is the visco you used in looks like >40s. I've had the same results! Air filter/water separator, *measured visco* and ensuring high air volume improved my results.
It depends on your air compressor and the spray gun you use. Small air compressors might not be able to keep up with the air you need to drive your spray gun. You will have to research that. Scott
Great video But how you are going to do all this when you go to do a customers home cabinets on site.. do you do all this process with one door until you get it right? How you do it
This was a test of 2 paints and various air cap sets. Now that I know what air cap set works best with each paint, I can repeat those results again and again. Does that make sense? Scott
So - did you get them at the same viscosity? The same number of seconds? I would say that the second needed a 1.5 tip because of its viscosity - but - I'm not an expert. Looking forward to your answer.
Hi Andrei. Yes, both of the paints were thinned to the same viscosity. The difference in the paints are their levelling capabilities. The Benjamin Moore Advance has better levelling and the paint settles down more evenly than the Benjamin Moore Natura. I recommend the Advance, unless you are concerned with VOC's creating indoor air pollution, in which case Natura is the right choice. I hope that helps. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking Scott help me with another thing here. I'm shooting with an air compressor. I was told that a pressure suction feed would be the thing to shoot latex with and that thinning out latex for gravity guns is a no-no that messes up the finish. Any thoughts? This true? I want to buy a gravity fed gun (7.7 cfm max at 40psi my compressor) and I wanna use it with anything from stain, to water based varnish, latex paints and auto-motive base and clear. As far as I understand any good coating gun can do that if I have a range of tips (1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm) and latex is the only thing that is way too viscous. Yet I have seen this dude reduce latex with Floetrol and painted this door and it looks great, no orange peel, nice texture: ruclips.net/video/8SeUGOil2UQ/видео.html . So what is the actual problem with reducing Latex, I don't understand anything anymore.
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking Were you able to spray Latex with a gravity fed system? I keep hearing that it can't work properly and then I go on and see this dude thinning it down with water and Floetrol and getting awesome results (great for me, this guy on reddit trashed his finish) - check this out: ruclips.net/video/8SeUGOil2UQ/видео.html&t=429 . What do you think?
Andrei Fasola I've only used a compressed air driven auction spay gun once using BM Advance and the finish was flawless. I suspect the paint quality/properties are the key to success
Other users seem to recommend a 1.8 air cap for BM Advance, but with your results you had orange pealing. Do you figure that’s just a result of using paint that was thinned too much for that air cap size? And with tweaking all of the air caps would have produced great results. I’m new to spraying so just taking in all of the info I can.
I would guess the difference is the spray equipment. I use a 3-stage turbine FujiSpray HVLP. Other paint sprayers may work better with a larger tip. Unless you do a test with your equipment like I did, you won't know for sure. I hope that helps. Scott
And I have a question. Can you compensate for the absence of air pressure regulator by controlling the air flow? Or are they two different things? Thanks for your great work
In theory, it would have atomized better, but I'm not sure the finish would be any better with thicker paint. In my experience, thicker paint doesn't level out as well for a smooth finish - though I only use latex paint... other type of paints may level out better due to the chemicals.
You need to use a viscosity cup to measure how much to thin the paint. Here's a link to a video that shows how to mix paint for a spray gun - ruclips.net/video/iPdjoDGe1mk/видео.html
How much was the Advance thinned to shoot through a 1.3 cap set? That's an important adjustment and not mentioned here. I don't have much experience but I would think there would need to be an adjustment in viscosity for each cap set as per Fuji's instructions. I sprayed Cabinet Coat with a 1.8 cap set and did not see as much orange peel as shown here. but I think after watching your video that I can get a better finish with a 1.5. My concern is that I'd basically have more water than paint with a 1.3.
Hi Kady. I don't measure the amounts of fluid. The viscosity cup is what tells me if I've got it right or not. If you don't have a viscosity cup, I recommend getting one. It's the essential tool for thinning paint.
I have one, came with my Fuji. What was your timing for the 1.3? I'm going to try that cap set next as I really like the finish you showed and have been having similar issues with with slight texture with the larger sizes. I suppose I could have settled but I'm really trying for a perfect finish. I'm confused by conflicting advice. Most say use the larger cap sets and don't thin much. This is a hobby for me. I have all the time in the world to spray multiple coats.
@@kadyq9626 I used the recommended viscosity in the Fuji Spray guide. I don't recall what it is, but you will have it there for a reference. What I've learned is to get the right viscosity first, then try different air cap sets. It's best to learn how each finish works with the different air cap set... seems to require experimenting instead of relying on a formula. I hope that helps. Scott
Love it! Glad I stumbled on your channel. I use a paint ready station from wagner with the finish gun. Does a good job for poly, but this looks next level.
Hi i hv a 2.5hp 40l compressor n a 1.5 hvlp nozzel...i hv adjusted the psi to abt 25..but i cant seem to spray as the paint dust flys everywhere...could u advice me as to where im going wrong??
Sorry, I've only used 1 HVLP on compressed air so I don't feel I have enough experience to provide advice on that. In general, using a spray gun is a balance of airflow and fluid flow. Try cutting your airflow to 1/2 and fluid flow to full, then adjust from there. Test on paper/cardboard to see if you can find the right balance. This assumes you have the right viscosity of finish in your spray gun too. I hope that may help. Scott
GREAT VIDEO, I'M SPRAYING ADVANCE WITH A TCP GLOBAL G6600 HVLP WITH A 2.5 TIP & THINNING AROUND 12-15% , IT'S COMING OUT PRETTY GOOD BUT GETTING SOME UNEVEN FINISH AFTER DRYING. AFTER WATCHING THIS, IS MY TIP TOO BIG? THANKS
The uneven finish would lead me to believe it may be your spraying technique. Are you overlapping your spray pattern by 50% over the previous spray? If it's spaced out too much, the paint won't be thick enough to settle between the spray pattern. If the uneven finish isn't consistent with your spray pattern, I'm not sure if it's the tip/air cap set size. I hope that helps. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking HI SCOTT, THANKS FOR THE REPLY. I DID A SECOND COAT ON MY CABINET DOORS TODAY THINNED THE ADVANCE TO 10% & TURNED THE AIR DOWN TO 25 PSI, IT LOOKS A LITTLE BETTER, BUT NOT SURE IF ITS THE CHANGE I MADE, OR JUST THE ADDED LAYER OF PAINT. BUT I THINK YOUR RIGHT ABOUT THE OVERLAP, I'M LEGALLY BLIND & SPRAYING OFF WHITE PAINT IN THE SUN IS A CHALLENGE. I BOUGHT A FEW SETS OF SMALLER NEEDLES TO TRY AS WELL. THANKS
Thomas King I have a challenge spraying white sometimes, so yes, it’s hard to see going on. I also suggest using a viscosity cup to measure how thin your paint is. 10% might not get the paint thin enough to avoid seeing a spray pattern.
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking THANKS SCOTT, IS THERE A CERTAIN CUP FOR LATEX, OR DO YOU JUST GO FOR A NUMBERED CUP? SEEMS TO BE A FEW OPINIONS ON DIFFERENT RUclips VIDS, MOST USING A #2.
I haven't tried either of these yet. I suggest not spraying lacquer as it is highly toxic, flammable, and best used by professionals in a professional spray booth. Scott
One thing you didn't do in your video (but perhaps you did it off camera so we didn't see it) was to filter your paint before filling your cup. In your video you mentioned you "had a few dust particles", which certainly could have been caused by not filtering.
HI Marty. You're right, I didn't filter the paint as I was using a brand new can of paint. I have a filter on the intake tube inside the cup of my spray gun, so the filtering happens there as a precaution. When I have used paint, I typically filter it to make sure there aren't any gobs of paint in the cup that might cause problems. Thanks for pointing that out... I didn't think about mentioning it. Scott
Hi Juan. Here'a an affiliate Amazon link to the sprayer I use. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D4NPMKI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00D4NPMKI&linkCode=as2&tag=woodshopthera-20&linkId=b882afc8c3571656bac9d22119c13b82 If you make a purchase using this link, it help supports our RUclips channel work. Let me know if you have any questions. Scott
The only thing in my user manual about Latex is the viscosity recommendation. As you can see here, two paints work better with different air cap sets. Scott
Thanks for your question. I avoid using MDF as much as possible in my shop because of the fine dust it creates when cutting and shaping it. It also doesn't take screws as well as plywood. That's whey plywood is my sheet material of choice.
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking I agree with you on dust issue and screw holding abilities of MDF and to a certain extent on Particle board but they are more dimensionally stable than most plywoods
I use a Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primer. I don't spray lacquer as it's flammable and very toxic. In my opinion, it should only be used by professional finishers that have the safety equipment to protect their health and work safely in their shop.
Home Improvement Woodworking I have a 1.3, 1.5, 1.8 and a 2.5 but you should also get a regulator attachment on your Hose. That helps a lot when you don’t need the full amount of air coming from the turbines. I think Fuji sells them or amazon. That’s where I purchased my 2.5.
I really appreciate your clear, concise but very informative descriptions. The ability to see the differences between paint types being applied and the differences using various air tips was a missing part of every other review I have watched. Your video editing is also top notch. You provided great value to this viewer. I just subscribed! Thanks again.
Just getting into HVLP and looking to see how I'd use it, this was super useful. Definitely a little bit daunting when you see all the adjustments and whatnot but this definitely made it a little more clear.
Yes, it requires lots of practice to get good at it. Good luck with your projects Adam!
Thank you very much for doing this! As a novice to spraying it seems to me that experimentation is the key to success.
Absolutely! It takes a lot of practice. Cheers. Scott
I had to watch a lot of videos to get to yours and I'm glad I had the patience. Thank you very much! That's what I needed. (I've been doing it all wrong!)
Thank you for the intense detail showing the difference in the capsets and the textures. Was a great demonstration.
Your attention to all the small details is exactly what i was looking for. I have a very similar Fuji spray setup you use in this video and i'm looking to spray Advance with it so this video was very helpful. The results you achieved with the 1.3 cap set was very impressive. Thanks for posting.
Glad it was helpful! Scott
Thank you for this presentation. I just finished this process and concluded there are many more variables at play than merely using a stop watch and Ford cup and trying to match them with generic viscosity / tip / sprayer tables. The reality of this process is that each gun, tip, AND paint behaves differently, AND together they all behave differently depending on site conditions and the materials being painted. The best "formulas" require the care and diligence of some trail and error. There are no short cuts to the time spent doing test runs to achieve one's desired results. You are a real pro. Thanks again.
Yes, it's not as simple as putting paint in the cup and pulling the trigger. Thanks for your comment. Scott
Very useful. I just bought a Mini Mite 3 with a Fuji gravity feed gun for doing guitars. I learned from this video to do plenty of test pieces.
Best and clearest info on spraying I have seen yet - so useful to me thank you
That's awesome to hear you found it useful. Thanks for your feedback. Scott
I appreciate how informative you are as well as the close ups visually.
I'm happy to hear you found it helpful. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Awesome Comprehensive test, i have a bunch of cabinets to paint. Thanks. Subscribed.
You are the only person I have found that really seems to have a great grasp on HVLP spraying. Thanks for the info man! I have asked so many people in the paint industry questions like how to mix paint and for my Titan 115 HVLP. I just keep hearing if you add to much water it ruins the paint. All I know is if the paint is not the right viscosity then it sprays like shit if it even sprays at all. 👍🏻
I learned to mix paint and spray by a professional finisher. I'm happy to share what I learned. Cheers. Scott
Some history, I’m a painting contractor of 45 yrs, we had some great acrylics in the early 80’s, thinned down nicely but needed airless higher pressure to squeeze them to properly atomize them through smaller orifice tips to produce a finer finish to match oil base somewhat.
It all came down as you say playing with different tips sizes to material viscosity. If I thinned a lot, I layered medium wet coats, waited until a lot of the water dried out, applied another wetter coat at the right time so the second coat would melt into the first creating a nice flow out creating less orange peel. This was applied to vertical doors which is much harder to do than flat spraying. Thin coats as you were spraying requiring so many coats and sanding between them is not so cost effective depending on your bid. Water borne products thin out quite a lot when dry. So you see why it’s important to get a good mil thickness before you lose your shirt taking so much labor time doing so many coats. We do custom work at production speeds. We learn over many years to get the best finish in the shortest amount of time .Actually I found a left over can of what I believe is a hybrid material, smells kinda like oil base paint, but might just be an alkyd resin formula. This product has super good hide, and finely ground pigments. Probably a great spraying material. Water clean up, I really didn’t think it was water base, the smell and ease of brushing application made it feel like oil. These hybrids just might be the key for the hvlp’s. They usually need a lot of thinning for water base materials, which I hate for many reasons. I use the graco 9.5 pro comp hvlp. I use a remote cup with a separate air supply for fluid separate from turbine air. The 5 stage air supply and fluid pressure to the remote cup allows you to spray heavier unthinned material. Sometimes a lot more air to fluid pressure is needed
Having the freedom to spray in tighter areas without a cup under setup is so ideal. I’m yet to try my air-assisted airless with the newer graco FFLP tips at half the airless pressure. Hvlp is just too slow and thinning material is not the best way to go. I use the rac x tip guard but that introduces air differently than the flat tip air nozzle for the graco g-40 gun. This gun and setup produced an auto body finish without thinning a water base acrylic finish right in front of me with a graco rep doing the spraying. This again was sprayed on a large sample card , spraying vertical, no runs possible with unthinned material. I’ve just about sprayed everything over my career. If you get an air assisted airless, it needs a hopper on top. You can put a qt in the gravity fed hopper, run smaller diameter super flexible airless/combined attached air hose. 25 ft lengths so smaller material amounts can save on waste. This is the ideal way to produce a super finish that resembles automotive finishes.
Thanks for the thoughtful and informative post. Agree 100% that while he gets a beautiful result, the time required for 3-4 thin coats w/ sanding is not insignificant . Throw in the 14-16 hour recoat time of Advance, and even for someone not concerned with profit... It gets tough. The "hybrid" you describe sounds just like Advance. I'm wondering if a Fuji Q5 is going to be able to spray Advance with minimal thinning (or unthinned). Mine gets here in a few days, so we will find out. Finally, I hear great things about AAA and paints like Advance. Issue with that is it is a big hassle when spraying smaller quantities.
Your video is amazing I wish you would make more spray finishing videos! To start off, I know nothing about spray finishing but wanna buy a Fuji Q5 to use for projects. RUclips and the Internet have been my teacher and this video breaks it down the best.This video was very creative and informative! showing us important information especially that last shot with a 1.3 reflection. This video was extremely helpful for me since I am now researching the different tip options
Here's a recent project I did and sprayed the finish on. This is from my other RUclips channel, Fixing Furniture - ruclips.net/video/zjP6PpPvHgY/видео.html
Hi, you have just endorsed what my experience and logic has told me. After many years as a car sprayer in the late 60s the enemy was always orange peel, now in my 70s I haven’t forgotten my spraying ability nor the practical element which was to spray many thin coats and flatten in between. From a commercial point of view I realise there is a temptation to load thick coats to make it cover but I have plenty of time so thin it is with BM advanced. I watched a video where the guy was spraying BM advanced commercially where he thinned it down with masses of water, believe he said 50% and never had a problem reported to him. So 1.3 tip and around 20 seconds through the viscosity cup provided with my 4 stage Fugj. Wish me luck. 👍
Scott, hey. So you are one of the few sources out there trying to do exactly the same as me. A quality HVLP System (not adding a cheapo gun onto a high-pressure compressor and add-on regulator and cheapo gun), spraying on raw wood and not respraying old kitchen cabinets, and using Waterborne BM Advance hybrid paint. I am using 1.3 Fuji spray tip on my Q4 Platinum and still thinning down by eye until I think the paint appears to run off the stir stick with the viscosity others using Latex paint not Advance demonstrate. The first project I was likely not using enough paint and ended up working the sprayer like an airgun dusting it on and never got a wet coat so the leveling properties of Advance never likely had much of a chance - it turned out okay but appeared a bit rough. This project is a much bigger one and has tons of parts, so I am mixing a lot of primer and paint. Now I am thinning out more than before and getting wetter coats on and they are much smoother especially after lightly sanding the primer and getter that layer very smooth. BUT now I am still seeing grain pattern similar to what you demonstrate after 1 prime coat, 1 paint coat. I was planning on 2 coats of paint. What have you ended up with over the past couple of years now using Advance on raw wood? still using the 1.3? adjusting the paint dilution up or down any and changing the tips? how many coats? Thanks for any help.
Hi Peter. For spray finishes, they go on much thinner than painting with a brush, therefore they need more coats of paint. I recommend 2 coats of primer on bare wood, sanding after each, then 4-5 coats of paint for a quality finish. I hope that helps. Scott
This is a great explanation of the caps. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I'm happy to hear you found this useful. Thanks
Great video !! I am new to HVLP and this was very informative.
Glad it was helpful! Scott
Thanks Scott. You presented that very well and it was very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Got the same HVLP with 3 stages, very useful, thank you.
I haven't tested it yet but I got worried that it might be not powerful enough to spray a thing SW paint, happy to find that it is possible to get the decent result.
9:41 thank you. I’ve had a Fuji for a while and love it BUT. you disproved an important’rule’ which is that thicker paint = larger air cap set. Seems that the material properties other than just viscosity need to be tied to a particular air cap.
Excellent video never saw tip comparisons side by side like that .thanks very helpful.
You're welcome. Scott
Hey, Scott. I like how you kept from jumping to conclusions before you undertook the testing. It's interesting how your tests come up with different recommendations from those of others... and that's because you weren't afraid to try out the various aircap sets you had. Most of the other videos I've seen talk about 2.0mm capsets.
However, the important conclusion you came up with, is that there is no one aircap that will work for all latex paints. It's all so dependent on the particular latex you're wanting to apply.
Thanks for your comments Marty. I appreciate you taking the time to provide some feedback on the video. Cheers! Scott
Preparation is the key to a good finish . I use a hvlp turbine system and have done for 8 years now and have found to get the best results use the smallest air cap needle set you can get away with and maximum air flow to give greater atomisation.If I'm spraying metal flake then a1.8 will be max size .Automotive paints I tend to use a 1.mm set up for all stages even with all the high solids products while achieving glass like finishes.It is also dependent on what size turbine you are using,if you have a 5 stage unit then you very rarely need to thin a product to spray which in turn gives you greater coverage with less passes .The psi is also around 10psi for a 5 stage unit and between 5-7 psi for a 3 stage unit with varying cfm airflow which really effects atomisation.The key is to get a happy medium where you get minimum overspray and bounce back with less thinning as possible with maximum atomisation to achieve a great finish .The only area that can cause issue is remember that turbines also dry the paint your using so distance from your work piece and speed of application will have an effect also .
Thank you for the tips. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
I'm looking to purchase a HVLP unit to paint my kitchen cabinets, it seems that a Stage 5 is what I need correct?
DIY Guy Home owner good morning & in answer to your question a 5 stage unit allows you to spray coatings with less or no thinning depending upon product and gun set up . It's always nice to have the extra power and most 5 stage units are variable for PSI . I have used a 3 stage unit for years and I've sprayed cars ,motorcycles ,kitchen units garden rails fence panels etc etc but thinning was required with some coatings to aid flow out .I also run with a pressure pipe to the cup and pps this also really helps .However I must say the appollo 5 stage gives fantastic results combined with the 7500 gun .
The more stages, the more power for atomizing the paint. You don't need the most powerful HVLP unit out there to get good results. Here's a link to one of the articles I used to help make my decision. I use the 3-stage unit by Fuji, and I've had great results. www.fujispray.com/Fine%20Woodworking%20Article%20-%20SprayforLess%202014
Home Improvement Woodworking what was the ratio of water to paint?
Brilliant explanation on different air cap sets. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. I'm happy you found it useful
Fantastic RUclips tutorial my friend. Well thought out and to the point.
Glad you liked it Simon. Thanks for sharing that. Scott
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Many people don't realize how much time goes into making videos like this.
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate that! Scott
I highly recommend a kitchen scale for dialing in and having every coat come out same. Here is what I do - filled my cup 3/4 of way with BM advance and put that on a kitchen scale. Found closest 10 grams and topped it off. Then i used viscosity cup once to get a feel to how i thought the flow was good compared to times in manual. When happy I put the mixed paint back on scale and now I have a replicatable mix. I know this sounds like overkill but it is way faster to mix each batch when using viscosity cup, it is even faster then eye balling. And it is 100% replicatable. You also have something you can find tune between batches if you feel that the first batch didn't spray the way you wanted
Wow, that's a great idea for measuring! I like how it's repeatable. Thanks for sharing your experience Rich!
Consider you idea well and truly stolen, thanks
Excellent video man really went into depth And gave me a whole new perspective on painting, and how huge of a difference it can be with something you might not think it’s so significant but really is if that makes any sense. Also when your voice I don’t know something about a man super soothing relaxing. Thanks again
Thanks for your comments Frank. It makes me happy to hear you found this useful. Scott
Great videography, best demonstration of viscosity I’ve seen in a video. Thanks!
Wow, thanks!
Thank you. That was perfect for the info I needed.
I’ve been looking at thee Fuji spray systems myself. This tutorial was very helpful and informative. Excellent comparisons…Going over to look at your post on thinning water based paints 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Amazing!
Great video for us newbies...
You have the most amazing tutorials on RUclips. Great explanation; brief and well executed. Thank you very much
Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate that. Scott
This is a vert informative video! Trying to dial in my fuji q5 now and I have a couple questions: 1. It seems like you really dialed down the fluid control to minimum so that you get a good atomization (fine, even pattern with no large dots), and you only did one pass when spraying. Wouldn't this leave dry spot on the surface? 2. If you are spraying a thin coat each time, do you have to wait 16 hours for recoat? It seems like waiting 16 hours between each recoat makes this whole process last a week. Thanks, I appreciate if you can answer these questions!
Great Demonstration we need professional details, thanks ,I just subscribed
Thanks for showing the different outcomes for the fuji tips. I've been shooting base with 1.8 but have the other tips. Will experiment with the 1.3 and 1.5 and might just change my tips........
My lesson out of this testing is that finishes perform differently, so it's definitely worth the effort to do some testing to get the best performance. Scott
Now I'm even more excited to get my HVLP in, Ordered a Titan Capspray. One Question I have is: Can I use the same gun for Latex, Oil, and Lacquer products? I know in a perfect world I'd have a gun for each but at an extra $300 it's not really an immediate option.
Yes, you can use the same spray gun for all types of finishes. Be careful though with flammable finishes so you don't cause a fire - there are a lot of precautions you need to take to be safe. Have fun with your new toy!
Nice, which Capspray did you get? I have a Capspray 75. I previously thought it to be outside my budget, but I got one used for around $400.
Good analytical presentation with continued focus on subject mater.
Well thank you. I appreciate that. Scott 🇨🇦
Only got one size needle 1.8 so I’m going to thin down and apply more coats thanks for all ya help 73s
Hi Scott, Thanks for sharing all your information. I'm in the learning curve, and I would like to buy like a swiss army knife for all the diverse projects a DIY Homeowner can face. I would like to paint from exterior/interior aluminum windows trims, walls, old furniture waiting for facelift etc, everything with the same tool as much as possible
In the past, I bought an HVLP dewalt spray gun which I never used when I realized my compressor would struggle to spray something thick like latex as it was 1.5mm nozzle due to the low CFM, so I thought a need more power. So I did research about a bigger, bulky and compressor that would require either 230volts or an gas engine to make it work HVLPto handle 7CFM. Then I revised a semi pro $500 airless sprayer when I realized they can handle latex fine but with high detail finished they will struggle and it represents a waste of paint for small projects having to even prime those systems IMHO, so they only save you time and probably effort but nothing else
So, at the end, I realized than an HVLP turbine would be probably the smarter choice for a painting different projects, but now I'm hesitating about the number of stages required. I was happy with the idea of a 2 stage Fuji Hobby pro, but realized it was not powerful to handle something like exterior latex properly unless you want your latex milkshake to become 2% milk. so I'm between fuji mini mite 3, 4 and mini mite 5, and buying several expensive nozzles as you ahve in this video. It's a $245 difference more for the stage 5 (here in Canada) for the 6 foot hose, a heavy-duty 25 feet hose apparently more robust than the fuji 4 or 3, the cleaning kit and a couple of extra filters and 1 additional stage, but only 0.5 psi more power. It's worth a stage 5 or a 4?
Iu understood the more stages, the thicker material I can spray, Nevertheless, after watching your video about thinning the paint, and the comparison between these 3 finishes, now a doubt came after, which is, you compared the 3 tips but your paints had different thinning grades or not? (for the same paint). For instance with the heavy BM white paint you used, when you used the 1.3 tip it was like 2% milk? My first project would be to paint my faded aluminum windows trims with an already bought paint that includes the primer (Exterior Duration from SW) which is thick like ice cream. Im concerned about thinning it too much, and losing bonding properties of the primer included.
I know mini mite is more woodworking which I also love to work and do, but I would like the swiss knife for everything :) is that too much to ask for? What are your thoughts
Thanks for your detailed question. I appreciate the challenges of finding the right spray tool, as my journey in spraying research took me 15 years. I've had great experience talking with the people at Fuji Spray - they're very supportive. My gut is telling me the exterior paint would be best used with an airless sprayer, typically used for large areas that don't require a fine finish. I'm not sure if a turbine could spray that finish without a lot of change to the viscosity.
When I tested the two paints, I thinned them to the same viscosity. I strongly recommend using a viscosity cup to measure this.... the Fuji Spray units come with one.
I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Scott
I purchased the Fuji Mini Mite 4, but I have been experiencing orange peel issues, even when just using a primer. Specifically, I have been using SW Extreme Blocker Oil Based primer, which had an out-of-can viscosity of 45s. I thinned 10% and later to 15% but still get orange peel, and when I spray vertically, I even get runs when thinned so much. I have experimented with different fan sizes and flow rates, but I am still not getting the fine finish I desire.
I have been using a 1.8mm tip as that is what Fuji recommends for oil based and enamel paints, but I cannot get it to spray a fine-looking finish. I am going to try a smaller tip and see how that does. I will be using Sherwin Williams Emerald Enamel for the paint and expect it to be even more difficult to get a fine finish, not to mention Sherwin Williams state the paint should not be thinned as mess with the chemistry. Any suggestions to try to get a smooth fine finish.
I suggest calling Fuji Spray for product support. They’re very helpful.
thanks for showing in detail
Your welcome Scott! Cheers
Good side by side comparison. I recently purchased a Fuji Q5 and my first attempt was riddled with orange peel. I used a 1.3 nozzle. My problem was, the paint was too thick. I know that now. I also bought a 0.8 and 1.0 nozzle to experiment.
That's a nice machine Rick! I'm sure you will enjoy using it. Cheers
Thank you for the video. I’m struggling with same dust particles. How can you get rid of those or at least minimize them?
Build a tent Malaka. What’s the matter with you!
I've had success moving pieces to a drying rack to there's something above the wet surface. It helps to keep dust from settling on it. It would also help to have a clean spray room, but I don't think most of us have the luxury. After a finish, you can rub out dust particles... it's the last step of finishing and there are various techniques for doing that. Find a good finishing book and it will discuss rubbing techniques. I hope that helps. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking thank you! I managed to improve the finishing a little bit by cleaning the nozzle after every piece I’m spraying. I noticed the dusts were more frequent to the last pieces. Another thing that helped a bit was to use a fan blowing the overspray outside my garage (I keep about one foot open)
I have an older mini mite 3 and it came with an H4 cap and tip set. I'm about to spray my cabinets with KM Dura-Poxy.
Based on one of your other videos, I purchased a Ford#4 viscosity cup.
Wish me luck.
Awesome video Scott. I have learned a lot. Thank for the video.
Thanks for your comments Bryan. I'm happy you found it useful
Good video!
Great explanation. Was this last board that looks like glass done with Advance as well?
What size tip do you think would work best for Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel?
What do you do with paint that says do not thin but is to thick
I would like to see that same test, but with SW Emerald Urethane and Milesi. I am about to invest in hvlp or fflp(airless). It seems split between the two tip technologies now. People have been spraying un-thinned Milesi with a 310/308 fflp tips and with 1.8mm hvlp cap sets with great results. Thanks for you videos.
Thanks for your suggestion Ken. Unfortunately, I can't get to that soon with over a dozen projects on my plate. I will add it to our video idea list though. Thanks. Scott
Can’t seem to find out if you’re supposed to clean the gun between coats or if it’s fine being left as is until the paint dries and you’re ready for another coat. Help?
Great vid 👍
Are all needles interchangeable with different gun makes? Are some needles better quality?
I don't know for sure, but I suspect they're specific to each manufacturer
Thanks. Subscribed.
Excellent
Great video talking about texture
Thanks. Glad you liked it
Couple questions: What is a good starting point for setting the air pressure to the gun.
What is the difference as it relates to your settings between the paint gun you show and the gravity feed paint gun. I have the gravity feed gun.
I haven't used a gravity feed gun, but I'm guessing the controls are similar. I start setting the air flow at a medium-high level to test the finish. I adjust the fluid control knob until I get something close to what I'm looking for, then I back off the air flow. The lower your air flow, the better as you get less bounce back on the finish. If it's too low, your finish won't atomize well, so it's a balancing act that changes for each finish. Once I get the air flow to where I think it needs to be, I readjust the fluid flow to fine tune the spray. Does that help?
Thank you for your video! If you thined the paint down less with the larger cap sizes would it still orange peel? My understanding was the lager cap sets were for thicker liquids. I recently did a cabinet set with Ben Moore Command using a 2.5 tip and no thinning the paint. I got really good results, the command is pretty thin on its own.
You're correct, the larger cap size is designed for thicker viscosity. Orange peel depends on a few factors which is why testing products are so important when working with a new finish. I hope that helps. Scott
What size tip do you think would work best for Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Enamel?
@@barnes80
I've never got great results spraying Emerald Urethane though HVLP, thinning it down really cuts the durability of the paint and adds to its cure time. but have got amazing results spaying it though my airless with a Graco FF 315 tip, no thinning necessary
Really good step by step process for dialing in the sprayer!
What is the dry time between coats and how many coats is on the finished piece at the Randy of the video ?
The dry time between coats was about an hour. The Advance test was 8 coats, but I did very light coats for the purpose of the test. In practice, it would take about 4 coats on horizontal boards, with sanding part way through.
It is not a Fuji but it will do
Thank u always SmilE 😊
How much did u water down the Advance?
Why so many coats though! I just do 2 primer and 2 or 3 finish coats. It’s usually does have orange peel though, I used emerald urethane sw with Fuji t-75 gravity 1.3 tip, should I just keep spraying?
Sprayed finishes go on thinner than brushed-on finishes, therefore you need more coats to build up the finish. There is a tool you can use to measure the thickness of the finish when it's wet to understand how thick you're applying it.
I recently bought the Fuji sprayer. Your video is very helpful in learning more about it. Thank you! I do have one thought after watching it. I had no idea you had to sand. I was hoping the Fuji sprayer would save me time in painting but if I have to sand the paint after I spray my walls that actually seems way more time consuming than painting with a brush. Hopefully they'll let me return it 😄
If you're painting walls, I wound't sand after painting. I use my Fuji Spray gun to finish furniture with a higher quality finish than I can get by hand. For walls, you won't need the paint that smooth. Does that answer your question? Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking Ah, gotcha. That makes sense! Thanks for your reply.
Great video. With the Advance, when cleaning the gun, can you do so with just soap and water? Or, given that it’s a hybrid paint, did you find you needed to use a solvent?
I use warm water to clean out the spray gun. I run a full quart of water through it to clear the paint from the interior parts. I hope that helps. Scott
Nice, very nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice video I see the 1.3 tips do great job. I have the same sistem fuji Q4 with 1.3 tips and I learning paint cabinet. My boss want I use a Lowes cabinet paint that its too thick and I mix with water to make more fine but some time the gun still spill the paint and no look good. What advice can you give me abouth this about mix or use a diferent tips? Wish# and tipe of sand paper you use betwin coat?
You diluit that paint wit water or specific water?
Thanks for your help
To learn how to mix paint, watch the details in this video - ruclips.net/video/iPdjoDGe1mk/видео.html
I don't understand what you mean about the "gun still spill the paint". Do you mean you get paint dripping? If so, this is about painting technique, not about the paint. When you apply too much paint at once, it will run. This is typically on inside corners where the paint will gather quickly.
I use a 400 grit non-clogging sandpaper by Norton. It lasts much longer than traditional sandpaper.
I hope that helps. Scott
My opinion: OMG, got even better results with budget 30$ HVLP pistol and 150$ budget compressor. 3:50 - pretty much no atomization :( The 1.3 finish is the only one that seems to have a good viscosity setup.
1.8mm at 3:48, way to thick viscosity, sure it eggshells. 1.3 4:50, does look like spitting ; not a sanding issue.
As well it seems the compressor is delivering very little air volume, additionally with a cup system pretty hard to dial it in. What is the visco you used in looks like >40s.
I've had the same results! Air filter/water separator, *measured visco* and ensuring high air volume improved my results.
Good job😎
Thanks 😁
Can I use my air compressor with help gun to get this finish using water base or 2k polyurethane
It depends on your air compressor and the spray gun you use. Small air compressors might not be able to keep up with the air you need to drive your spray gun. You will have to research that. Scott
Great video
But how you are going to do all this when you go to do a customers home cabinets on site.. do you do all this process with one door until you get it right? How you do it
This was a test of 2 paints and various air cap sets. Now that I know what air cap set works best with each paint, I can repeat those results again and again. Does that make sense? Scott
Home Improvement Woodworking got it 👍😁 now
Can you explain witch capsets to use with differen paint oil latex clear ect.
Great video!. Very informative. I am guessing that you also had to thin the primer?
Hi Miguel. Yes, the primer was thinned down as well. Thanks of your feedback!
So - did you get them at the same viscosity? The same number of seconds? I would say that the second needed a 1.5 tip because of its viscosity - but - I'm not an expert. Looking forward to your answer.
Hi Andrei. Yes, both of the paints were thinned to the same viscosity. The difference in the paints are their levelling capabilities. The Benjamin Moore Advance has better levelling and the paint settles down more evenly than the Benjamin Moore Natura. I recommend the Advance, unless you are concerned with VOC's creating indoor air pollution, in which case Natura is the right choice. I hope that helps. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking Scott help me with another thing here. I'm shooting with an air compressor. I was told that a pressure suction feed would be the thing to shoot latex with and that thinning out latex for gravity guns is a no-no that messes up the finish. Any thoughts? This true?
I want to buy a gravity fed gun (7.7 cfm max at 40psi my compressor) and I wanna use it with anything from stain, to water based varnish, latex paints and auto-motive base and clear. As far as I understand any good coating gun can do that if I have a range of tips (1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm) and latex is the only thing that is way too viscous. Yet I have seen this dude reduce latex with Floetrol and painted this door and it looks great, no orange peel, nice texture: ruclips.net/video/8SeUGOil2UQ/видео.html . So what is the actual problem with reducing Latex, I don't understand anything anymore.
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking Were you able to spray Latex with a gravity fed system? I keep hearing that it can't work properly and then I go on and see this dude thinning it down with water and Floetrol and getting awesome results (great for me, this guy on reddit trashed his finish) - check this out: ruclips.net/video/8SeUGOil2UQ/видео.html&t=429 . What do you think?
Andrei Fasola I've only used a compressed air driven auction spay gun once using BM Advance and the finish was flawless. I suspect the paint quality/properties are the key to success
Other users seem to recommend a 1.8 air cap for BM Advance, but with your results you had orange pealing. Do you figure that’s just a result of using paint that was thinned too much for that air cap size? And with tweaking all of the air caps would have produced great results. I’m new to spraying so just taking in all of the info I can.
I would guess the difference is the spray equipment. I use a 3-stage turbine FujiSpray HVLP. Other paint sprayers may work better with a larger tip. Unless you do a test with your equipment like I did, you won't know for sure. I hope that helps. Scott
And I have a question. Can you compensate for the absence of air pressure regulator by controlling the air flow? Or are they two different things? Thanks for your great work
To be honest, I'm not sure. I haven't seen a regulator used with an HVLP turbine. I think it's for compressed air.
Huh I was shooting the 1.3 with the advance must need to adjust my pressure because I was getting the eggshell description you have to the 1.5
how much did you thin the BM Advance paint?
If you had a 5 stage do you think you could have atomized it more or even used a thicker paint
In theory, it would have atomized better, but I'm not sure the finish would be any better with thicker paint. In my experience, thicker paint doesn't level out as well for a smooth finish - though I only use latex paint... other type of paints may level out better due to the chemicals.
Thank you for the video. How much did you thin the advance?
You need to use a viscosity cup to measure how much to thin the paint. Here's a link to a video that shows how to mix paint for a spray gun - ruclips.net/video/iPdjoDGe1mk/видео.html
How much was the Advance thinned to shoot through a 1.3 cap set? That's an important adjustment and not mentioned here. I don't have much experience but I would think there would need to be an adjustment in viscosity for each cap set as per Fuji's instructions. I sprayed Cabinet Coat with a 1.8 cap set and did not see as much orange peel as shown here. but I think after watching your video that I can get a better finish with a 1.5. My concern is that I'd basically have more water than paint with a 1.3.
Hi Kady. I don't measure the amounts of fluid. The viscosity cup is what tells me if I've got it right or not. If you don't have a viscosity cup, I recommend getting one. It's the essential tool for thinning paint.
I have one, came with my Fuji. What was your timing for the 1.3? I'm going to try that cap set next as I really like the finish you showed and have been having similar issues with with slight texture with the larger sizes. I suppose I could have settled but I'm really trying for a perfect finish. I'm confused by conflicting advice. Most say use the larger cap sets and don't thin much. This is a hobby for me. I have all the time in the world to spray multiple coats.
@@kadyq9626 I used the recommended viscosity in the Fuji Spray guide. I don't recall what it is, but you will have it there for a reference. What I've learned is to get the right viscosity first, then try different air cap sets. It's best to learn how each finish works with the different air cap set... seems to require experimenting instead of relying on a formula. I hope that helps. Scott
Love it! Glad I stumbled on your channel. I use a paint ready station from wagner with the finish gun. Does a good job for poly, but this looks next level.
great video
Hi i hv a 2.5hp 40l compressor n a 1.5 hvlp nozzel...i hv adjusted the psi to abt 25..but i cant seem to spray as the paint dust flys everywhere...could u advice me as to where im going wrong??
Sorry, I've only used 1 HVLP on compressed air so I don't feel I have enough experience to provide advice on that. In general, using a spray gun is a balance of airflow and fluid flow. Try cutting your airflow to 1/2 and fluid flow to full, then adjust from there. Test on paper/cardboard to see if you can find the right balance. This assumes you have the right viscosity of finish in your spray gun too. I hope that may help. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking thanks scott
Jeez.
Ive spent more years spraying hvlp than this doods been alive.
And for some reason, my specific question routes me to this guy?
Jeez.
Daryl - if you've got some tips to share, I'm sure our viewers would like to hear them. Scott
GREAT VIDEO, I'M SPRAYING ADVANCE WITH A TCP GLOBAL G6600 HVLP WITH A 2.5 TIP & THINNING AROUND 12-15% , IT'S COMING OUT PRETTY GOOD BUT GETTING SOME UNEVEN FINISH AFTER DRYING. AFTER WATCHING THIS, IS MY TIP TOO BIG? THANKS
The uneven finish would lead me to believe it may be your spraying technique. Are you overlapping your spray pattern by 50% over the previous spray? If it's spaced out too much, the paint won't be thick enough to settle between the spray pattern. If the uneven finish isn't consistent with your spray pattern, I'm not sure if it's the tip/air cap set size. I hope that helps. Scott
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking HI SCOTT, THANKS FOR THE REPLY. I DID A SECOND COAT ON MY CABINET DOORS TODAY THINNED THE ADVANCE TO 10% & TURNED THE AIR DOWN TO 25 PSI, IT LOOKS A LITTLE BETTER, BUT NOT SURE IF ITS THE CHANGE I MADE, OR JUST THE ADDED LAYER OF PAINT. BUT I THINK YOUR RIGHT ABOUT THE OVERLAP, I'M LEGALLY BLIND & SPRAYING OFF WHITE PAINT IN THE SUN IS A CHALLENGE. I BOUGHT A FEW SETS OF SMALLER NEEDLES TO TRY AS WELL. THANKS
Thomas King I have a challenge spraying white sometimes, so yes, it’s hard to see going on. I also suggest using a viscosity cup to measure how thin your paint is. 10% might not get the paint thin enough to avoid seeing a spray pattern.
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking THANKS SCOTT, IS THERE A CERTAIN CUP FOR LATEX, OR DO YOU JUST GO FOR A NUMBERED CUP? SEEMS TO BE A FEW OPINIONS ON DIFFERENT RUclips VIDS, MOST USING A #2.
Thomas King to be honest, I’m not sure. I use the one that came with my Fuji Spray unit.
with varnish or lacquer does it give the same result
I haven't tried either of these yet. I suggest not spraying lacquer as it is highly toxic, flammable, and best used by professionals in a professional spray booth. Scott
hi Scott
One thing you didn't do in your video (but perhaps you did it off camera so we didn't see it) was to filter your paint before filling your cup. In your video you mentioned you "had a few dust particles", which certainly could have been caused by not filtering.
HI Marty. You're right, I didn't filter the paint as I was using a brand new can of paint. I have a filter on the intake tube inside the cup of my spray gun, so the filtering happens there as a precaution. When I have used paint, I typically filter it to make sure there aren't any gobs of paint in the cup that might cause problems. Thanks for pointing that out... I didn't think about mentioning it. Scott
good vid, thanks!
Thanks for the positive feedback Rob! Scott
It seems counter intuitive. I would think you would get the orange peeling effect from the smaller diameter nozzle...the 1.3 as opposed to the 1.8?
In my experience, and orange peel effect is the result of finish droplets being too large
What reference or brand is it? to search it on Ebay or Amazon
Hi Juan. Here'a an affiliate Amazon link to the sprayer I use. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D4NPMKI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00D4NPMKI&linkCode=as2&tag=woodshopthera-20&linkId=b882afc8c3571656bac9d22119c13b82 If you make a purchase using this link, it help supports our RUclips channel work. Let me know if you have any questions. Scott
I thought Fuji recommended a #5 1.8 for latex?
The only thing in my user manual about Latex is the viscosity recommendation. As you can see here, two paints work better with different air cap sets. Scott
Thanks for the informative video but if you are trying to spray paint on plywood why bother if you want a smooth finish why not just spray mdf
Thanks for your question. I avoid using MDF as much as possible in my shop because of the fine dust it creates when cutting and shaping it. It also doesn't take screws as well as plywood. That's whey plywood is my sheet material of choice.
@@HomeImprovementWoodworking I agree with you on dust issue and screw holding abilities of MDF and to a certain extent on Particle board but they are more dimensionally stable than most plywoods
Wow 👍 job!!
Thanks for your encouraging comment!
What are you using for a primer? Do you prefer spraying paints or lacquer
I use a Benjamin Moore Fresh Start primer. I don't spray lacquer as it's flammable and very toxic. In my opinion, it should only be used by professional finishers that have the safety equipment to protect their health and work safely in their shop.
@1:13: Triton? Do you mean Titan?
You're right, I did mean Titan. Good catch! Thank you
If you use a 2.5 air cap you will get better results for latex. A 1.3 is mainly for varnishes.
The largest I have is 1.8mm. I can't imagine using a 2.5... are you using an airless paint sprayer or an HVLP? Scott
Home Improvement Woodworking Fuji 3 HVLP
Home Improvement Woodworking I have a 1.3, 1.5, 1.8 and a 2.5 but you should also get a regulator attachment on your Hose. That helps a lot when you don’t need the full amount of air coming from the turbines. I think Fuji sells them or amazon. That’s where I purchased my 2.5.
Hi what air cap would be the best to spray mineral Chalkpaint ? I have a mite 5 thank you
useful
Glad you think so!