I’ve been watching your videos for about perhaps 2 years now and I doubt there’s anyone else in the US that knows the 1960-1970’s Mustangs better than you. I’m just astounded how you just tear into these rust buckets and create a new Mustang the way you do. I only wish I had the financial means to buy one of your restorations. I love the early Mustangs.
Not even Carol Shelby knows, he just slaps on shelby body kits and stripes, and im pretty sure when they were relevant they were viewed as peasant cars that needed bondo, and nowadays they finally get love but no one and i have scoured the internet, no one can do what Peterson does.
Carol Shelby died a few years ago. The present operators may well be doing as you describe. There was a time he would have argued with you- the first Mustangs he got were barely warmed over Falcons with sexy body work. Some of the Shelby re engineering is what gets repoppers caught for trying to do fast, cheap versions of the originals. I think this build is very special- he will be doing the whole Shelby upgrade plus all the additions for a factory big block car if he stays to his first episode plan. That will include the additional torque boxes under the front sides of the cowl, and additional top floor brace, strengthening longerons beside the rocker boxes within the interior, new "tower delete" forward side panels for the engine bay among other things. I'm hoping for the best "exploded view" of what Shelby did to make the Mustang into a world beater- it wasn't what Ford built, to be sure. FR
@@T0YCHEST Shelby's people in 1965 and up didn't think so, and my Mustang toys say the same thing- the chassis had much less torsional stiffness that a road racing suspension needs to be sure footed from. They "borrowed" the torque boxes, rocker reinforcings and extra cross member from the convertible chassis and applied them to the fast backs and the coupes built as Shelby Mustangs. FR
Nice to have you back posting your handy work. You make it look easy, I just spent long hours measuring, fitting and making up my mind that the front of my 66 was in the right place to weld in the cowl.
I have to do this to my 68 fast back. Thank you for showing us. I think I’ve seen another one of your videos doing the same. Love your vids. Thank you for posting.
So I’m trying to perhaps buy my old 1968 mustang. My family owned it new. Depends on its condition. What should I look for that makes it “not fixable”? From the videos I watch seems there are tons of metal to replace rusted ones. But any insight on not repairing
If your fastback 'shells' sell for 15k+, I'd dare to guess that Shelby clone is gonna have a 1 in front of that 15 once she's all done LOL. You do badass work chief ! Keep it up man. \m/
Probably more- the all new "Ford certified" Mustang shells were nearly $20K before the Covid deal- with a full set of Shelby mods, add at least $5 more K. What Peterson does is take an original chassis and legally wrap its VIN into an almost new steel envelope- and it's all very legal. So he saves you dad's old first car, or regenerates a barn find to last for another 50 or more years. And don't forget he will get it painted and all for the client- awesome channel and awesome work. FR
Absolutely great work! Is the black spray paint Eastwood rust encapsulator? Do you have a preferred weld through primer? I can't wait to see the Boss 302 video!
Hi, I have a dilemma, I bought a 67 coupe that's had 90% of the sheet metal completed. The issue is the hood doesn't line up with the center body line. (cowl to the hood) It looks like the hood needs to be moved laterally to the drivers side but there's not much room for adjustment. I'm thinking the replaced cowl might have been welded in about 1/2 an inch off. Have you ever ran into this? I'm wondering if I need to drill out the spot welds and move it over? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
You do great work. I can't wait to see how this one turns out. Those MTF front inner fender aprons look great but how strong are they? The front inner fender aprons and shock towers are a major part of the structure. Are they heavy enough gauge steel to make up the difference in strength from the originals? I've always liked the Mustang II style front suspension kits for the early Mustangs. But removing the shock towers and weakening the front upper structure has always concerned me.
I'd do both. 3M makes some great structural panel bonding adhesive that you can also weld thru. I would use the adhesive and still do the spot/rosette welds. It would add a lot of structural rigidity to the car plus seal up the seams even better. Seam sealer works great but it does eventually fail and allow moisture between the seams.
I’m no expert but I don’t think any of the US manufacturers were dipping their cars back in the 60’s,otherwise the 60’s cars wouldn’t rust out the way they do. They didn’t have galvanized steel back then either.
@@fw1421 I hear that, i just noticed that it didnt appear the rockers were treated before he put them on. Just me being ocd , would seem prudent to go the extra mile against corrosion or protect obvious area prone to corrosion. Something satisfying about this kind of work and video.
Yes they did have galvanizing back then and YES they dipped the bodies before paint. Only certain parts are galvanized like frame rails, spring perch, floor supports, rockers, etc.
@@donthompson2188 I have seen what they do to modern cars and i did look up some stuff about older vehicles but really not till the 70's did they start going after the rust issue. I watch lots of these channels where they restore old 60's muscle cars and they all have had rust between body panels.I am surprised no one offers this service for these restorer's so once they are complete they can dip them.
The worst thing about these old mustangs, and I own three right now so I should know, is when you find one that has decent paint, interior and other body parts and good transmission and engine BUT one owner has passed it on to other owners without addressing the shitty rusty cowl panel. Ford was really shitty in how they designed and assembled the original cowl panels! There HAD to be a better way to assemble them than what we see.
I can't live without this car😢😢😢
I’ve been watching your videos for about perhaps 2 years now and I doubt there’s anyone else in the US that knows the 1960-1970’s Mustangs better than you. I’m just astounded how you just tear into these rust buckets and create a new Mustang the way you do. I only wish I had the financial means to buy one of your restorations. I love the early Mustangs.
Not even Carol Shelby knows, he just slaps on shelby body kits and stripes, and im pretty sure when they were relevant they were viewed as peasant cars that needed bondo, and nowadays they finally get love but no one and i have scoured the internet, no one can do what Peterson does.
Carol Shelby died a few years ago. The present operators may well be doing as you describe.
There was a time he would have argued with you- the first Mustangs he got were barely warmed over Falcons with sexy body work. Some of the Shelby re engineering is what gets repoppers caught for trying to do fast, cheap versions of the originals. I think this build is very special- he will be doing the whole Shelby upgrade plus all the additions for a factory big block car if he stays to his first episode plan. That will include the additional torque boxes under the front sides of the cowl, and additional top floor brace, strengthening longerons beside the rocker boxes within the interior, new "tower delete" forward side panels for the engine bay among other things. I'm hoping for the best "exploded view" of what Shelby did to make the Mustang into a world beater- it wasn't what Ford built, to be sure. FR
@@fredericrike5974 a bolt on cage and frame connectors should do the trick
@@T0YCHEST Shelby's people in 1965 and up didn't think so, and my Mustang toys say the same thing- the chassis had much less torsional stiffness that a road racing suspension needs to be sure footed from. They "borrowed" the torque boxes, rocker reinforcings and extra cross member from the convertible chassis and applied them to the fast backs and the coupes built as Shelby Mustangs. FR
Your work is amazing to me. Certainly wish I could afford one you do.
Mike Fifer
Cooome on Powerball!!! Lol
@@bumblebeebob Or I could just spend the kids inheiritance!
@@N-Scale lol! True!
Me too Mike, but hopefully, like me, you’re rich in other ways other than money. Peace ✌️
you are the luckiest man in the world to have such a mustang😢😢😢
Nice to have you back posting your handy work. You make it look easy, I just spent long hours measuring, fitting and making up my mind that the front of my 66 was in the right place to weld in the cowl.
Amazing attention to detail and great work.
You never disappoint, Amazing work and video as usual Ben.
Great job. I should come visit your shop sometime.
Hey sounds good to me!
Watching you do your work and explaining what to do give me points what to do totally enjoy your videos on your builds thumbs up 👍
Great work. Great video. Great explaining of the way u do it. Lovely work.
Good work Ben you have a quiet confidence about yourself.
Keep them coming! #savingtherustbuckets
it is the most beaitiful car in the world😢😢😢😍😍😍
Great information!
As always, very interesting video with quality information! Thank you!
another fine video sir
I have to do this to my 68 fast back. Thank you for showing us. I think I’ve seen another one of your videos doing the same. Love your vids. Thank you for posting.
I have been waiting for this video series since I saw the car being collected. It is great watching the way you rebuild these iconic cars.
I be seen your builds and they are spot on. I’m glad you’re posting this part of the build! Thanks.
I always live with the dream of old mustangs, but it is not a dream that will come true😢😢😢
I’m doing a 71 challenger so your videos are inspiring
Love it, more more more!!!!!!
Nice job. 👍
Did you make the Door support's you make that welding look effortless
Yes I made them
Outstanding video
Thank you
the car of my dream that will never come true😢😢😢
Thanks Ben
What were your measurements for the windshield clip to cowl and cross measurements as well.
So I’m trying to perhaps buy my old 1968 mustang. My family owned it new. Depends on its condition. What should I look for that makes it “not fixable”? From the videos I watch seems there are tons of metal to replace rusted ones. But any insight on not repairing
You do awesome work! It looks easy but get things 1/4" inch off here and there and the whole front end will be off.
Odd that you think a qualified body man would get some panel fits off by 1/4"? Don't mistake a seasoned body man with an inexperienced carpenter!!!!
If your fastback 'shells' sell for 15k+, I'd dare to guess that Shelby clone is gonna have a 1 in front of that 15 once she's all done LOL. You do badass work chief ! Keep it up man. \m/
Probably more- the all new "Ford certified" Mustang shells were nearly $20K before the Covid deal- with a full set of Shelby mods, add at least $5 more K. What Peterson does is take an original chassis and legally wrap its VIN into an almost new steel envelope- and it's all very legal. So he saves you dad's old first car, or regenerates a barn find to last for another 50 or more years. And don't forget he will get it painted and all for the client- awesome channel and awesome work. FR
You install all the windshield wiper linkage before you weld her up right?
Linkage is under dash
Absolutely great work! Is the black spray paint Eastwood rust encapsulator? Do you have a preferred weld through primer?
I can't wait to see the Boss 302 video!
Hi, I have a dilemma, I bought a 67 coupe that's had 90% of the sheet metal completed. The issue is the hood doesn't line up with the center body line. (cowl to the hood) It looks like the hood needs to be moved laterally to the drivers side but there's not much room for adjustment. I'm thinking the replaced cowl might have been welded in about 1/2 an inch off. Have you ever ran into this? I'm wondering if I need to drill out the spot welds and move it over? Any help would be appreciated, thanks
You do great work. I can't wait to see how this one turns out.
Those MTF front inner fender aprons look great but how strong are they? The front inner fender aprons and shock towers are a major part of the structure. Are they heavy enough gauge steel to make up the difference in strength from the originals? I've always liked the Mustang II style front suspension kits for the early Mustangs. But removing the shock towers and weakening the front upper structure has always concerned me.
I'm dreaming to come living in USA just for doing this job, and learning how to do it of corse
Curious what paint you use. Is it a weld thru primer or epoxy paint?
Epoxy or rust encapsulator
It's my big dream in life to own this car, it's a pity that this dream will remain😢😢😢
Good watching
Where do you buy your spot weld cutters? Do they last long? I did just that last time, it skipped and broke a tooth. Thanks for the vid
What black eastwood paint are you using on the cowl/backside of dash?
Just wondering on a panel such as a cowl panel, have you ever considered using panel bond rather than spot welding. Love watching your videos
I'd do both. 3M makes some great structural panel bonding adhesive that you can also weld thru. I would use the adhesive and still do the spot/rosette welds. It would add a lot of structural rigidity to the car plus seal up the seams even better. Seam sealer works great but it does eventually fail and allow moisture between the seams.
Much does a 67 or 68 show cost From you making it
Why not use a spot welder where possible?
Love working on this era of mustang, but please get a low cost hole punch at harbor freight, It will save you a lot of time and hassle.
Where do the new/replacement panels come from?
Dynacorn for the most part
Did the factory dip the cars after they were fully welded. How to you protect all the hidden areas after you weld them.
I’m no expert but I don’t think any of the US manufacturers were dipping their cars back in the 60’s,otherwise the 60’s cars wouldn’t rust out the way they do. They didn’t have galvanized steel back then either.
@@fw1421 I hear that, i just noticed that it didnt appear the rockers were treated before he put them on. Just me being ocd , would seem prudent to go the extra mile against corrosion or protect obvious area prone to corrosion. Something satisfying about this kind of work and video.
Yes they did have galvanizing back then and YES they dipped the bodies before paint. Only certain parts are galvanized like frame rails, spring perch, floor supports, rockers, etc.
@@donthompson2188 I have seen what they do to modern cars and i did look up some stuff about older vehicles but really not till the 70's did they start going after the rust issue. I watch lots of these channels where they restore old 60's muscle cars and they all have had rust between body panels.I am surprised no one offers this service for these restorer's so once they are complete they can dip them.
Cavity coater by 3m or internal spray by Eastwood, we were just at aaca fall nationals and bought cases from Eastwood, pfc also works great.
You should invest in a spot welder.
Some day
Hi lm Rick i have a 1970 Boss302 i will like for u to restore it and how much wil u charge to do the job lm in philadelphia pa thank u
Sorry but I'm not currently taking on any new jobs
@@petersonrestorations I 'll respect that may be next time love ur work
give me one😢😢😢
The worst thing about these old mustangs, and I own three right now so I should know, is when you find one that has decent paint, interior and other body parts and good transmission and engine BUT one owner has passed it on to other owners without addressing the shitty rusty cowl panel. Ford was really shitty in how they designed and assembled the original cowl panels! There HAD to be a better way to assemble them than what we see.
What is the point of all this? I have scrapped out more of these than I can count.
Your right I'll give up
Ha ha! - I bet you have a superb collection Bruce. 😎