There’s so little bookbinding info on the internet, it makes it hard for younger people like me to learn, this channel has been a godsend tho!!
2 года назад+7
You can probably find more about bookbinding if you search for articles or books about book history or codicology instead of going straight for book binding. It's more how it was historically made instead of a modern take, but it can show you a lot of techniques as well
What helped me learn a lot about bookbinding is watching professionals like DAS and trying my best to copy what I see in the videos. Looking back to my first attempts at making books, they were horrible and cringy, but it is so rewarding to see how far I have come skill-wise!:) There is still so much for me to learn, but what I feel is key is to keep tying to do better and learn from my (many) mistakes. Never give up!:)
DAS does proper old school bookbinding which is great. For a 'younger approach check out sea lemon's bookbinding videos. Non-traditional but pretty good for beginners.
I've been trying to learn how to become a hobbyist bookbinder for a little while now... And this was one of the greatest tutorials I've seen!!!!!! Thank you!!!
I knew a guy who used to do that when I was a kid. It was a friend's grandfather who was retired. He had all these paperbacks that he turned into hardcover. He had shelves full of them because even the library wouldn't take them (he said he tried). Some of the old guys restored cars, others did carpentry/woodwork, this was his thing. I have to admit that I though he was doing that for books that I didn't think were worth saving, but that's what he did and it made him happy. God, I haven't though of him in years.
Great to see that a professional, taking time to show how he does his job. There is no hesitation in the steps and most of the work is done by eye or feel. as a carpenter this is the same for me. As an apprentice I would be constantly afraid of doing mistakes, but as I have gotten more experience. I’m noticing my mistakes as I’m making them, and are just working around them. Without any thought or anger. And the end result is always better. I love to watch old crafts by craftsmen. And you are a without doubt a craftsman. I understand your frustration in using your experience and time in turning a worthless pocket book to a leatherback. But to comfort you. This is pure entertainment for me.
Thanks! I love watching other craftspeople work too. I may have no intensions of ever using the technical skills being demonstrated, but watching the efficiency of movement, work flow, and their style of demonstration is always interesting and an opportunity to learn and improve. All the best, Darryn
I am glad that you, a professional, did this video. I have watched the same videos by amateurs and the amount of rookie mistakes are uncountable, yet people are applauding them like they did some kind of masterpiece. You have to learn from a master of the trade or you'll end up picking bad habits and do a mediocre job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Much appreciated.
There is something to be said to just wanting to make your books look or feel a certain way. It’s not always to mimic them being older or more expensive or to assume that you’re making them more sturdy or that they will last forever. Sometimes it’s just that you want to make them fit your bookshelf or personality better.
I agree , I want to rebind my paperback books , Why ? Not to make them look older ,but to make them last longer . I care about these books , I want them forever, "put some respect on the books"
I have a cheap copy of Gormenghast that I first read in high school. It is now crumbling in my hands. But when you talk about your love of that favorite old book, it made me smile. We love books because we read them. We want them to last forever. They become like family. Good video
3:am I m watching a craftsman bind a book , and I have no idea how I got here nor thought I’d watch any of it let alone till the end,, well done sir , this is really interesting, Informative, and thanks for sharing your craft
Thank you so much, you too Linda. I have been wanting to have the feel of an old Gothic library but could never find or afford to buy all hard covered books I want even at thrift shops. This will be a nice project one year. Great information.
My group decide to follow the idea of converting a paperback by using the split board method. We weren't too bothered about the leather work but followed the concept until then. It was quite correct that the cover needed to be in good condition and well attached to the text block. One member, with her 2nd book, tried it with a weak cover which detached from the book. The solution was to put a piece of fraynot round the spine onto the tongues. We thought the results were good. It's an interesting concept to stick the leaher with PVA - far harder than making some flour and water paste and using that! Thank you for the tutorial as always.
I have the same issue. I have a paperback that ive had for over a decade. Its one of my favourite books in general, but the particular copy i have is a very sentimental item itself. Over the years of re-reading its falling apart. So i want to make it a hardcover. Your the first person ive found that actually shows the process tho.
Before using this method, check out my latest video which preserves the original covers. If it's falling apart you will need to use the double-fan method to put it back together. Good luck! DAS
Two minutes of watching this video (the first time I've seen any of your videos) and I'm subscribed. Many years ago a man transferred a paperback copy of Huckleberry Finn to a hardcover for me. He didn't charge me a nickle for the job. That book will be cared for as long as I live and hopefully will be passed on to my children and theirs. I do love books. A lot. Thank you so much!
I have a really thick copy of _The Lord of the Rings_ in paperback, and I had thought about utilizing the pre existing cover, so thank you so much for showing a method for that! I'm really exited for how it might turn out!
I tried this in 1986 in my teens, but used bog oak veneers cut to 3mm thickness, I glued using horse glue and hand engraved the title and used gold leaf embossing. The book was Orwell’s animal farm printed in 1946. 35 years later and it’s still intact. I didn’t know it at the time but apparently this first edition print is very rare. The oak is still good too.
I am a bookbinder also. Only a real master can make such a beautiful book with the tools and techniques that I usually see. I have learned a lot, thank you!
Great video. I love the use of cord to mimic a proper rounded and backed book. A technique I have used when repairing/ converting paperbacks is to make some saw cuts through the spine of the perfect binding and glue in some thin linen threads. Then when i cover that with fraynot it really keeps the binding from falling apart as a lot of perfect bindings are flimsy.
I don't remember if I mentioned that the false shoulders come from the famous binder Thomas Harrison. I'm guessing you mean Lumbecking or double-fan binding as Perfect binding is machine binding that isn't worth trying to replicate by hand. I've gone off inserting cord in the spine of Lumbecked books. If the spine is going to be fragile for some reason, such as a thick book I might still do it. Years ago when I did many of these, I eventually had a few very well used books, such as cookbooks, come back to me. Ones I hadn't put cords into the spine were easily cleaned off and rebound. But if I'd inserted cords it was harder to Lumbeck them again without trimming the spine a bit. So I figure without the cord the book might need rebinding sooner if it is heavily used, but the spine edges remain in good condition. But a lot of books never get read and it doesn't matter. That's where I'm at with this. But I might change if someone has strong evidence that it is better.
The 4th book binding video I have watched ever great job I’ve enjoyed watching this from soft back to hardback and great information thanks for sharing 😇😎
Thank you! My best friend gave me their childhood books for me to rebind so that they can last. I'm going to follow this video to do so. The covers are *mostly* intact, just heavily creased and scratched. Using part of the covers is a wonderful way to keep the soul in the books
Wow! Never thought of doing this way. I always took book apart in similar projects. But really want to try this way now. Thank you for your videos and inspiration!
as a beginner bookbinder I absolutely adore your channel, it has helped me so much! I've only bound 4 or five books so far, but it's my goal to eventually bind leather books in that classic style (and learn all the vocabulary you use in your videos haha). Thank you for the help!
A very timely posting, thank you. I am investigating methods of recovering an 1897 edition of a law book. The covers are off. It is rounded and still has good shoulders so raised bands will look nice on it. I will look at your video on split board bindings as well. This will be in full leather and I’ve been asked to put in marbled endpapers as there were just plain paper endpapers originally. I so,appreciate your videos, I’m still on a steep learning curve and your videos are making me a better binder
Hi Cynthia. I highly recommend following the cloth library binding rather than this video. Also, the raised bands make this binding more complicated than I would like. The more I think about it, I think you should do it as a cased binding. Then you can do the bands and finishing off the book. If anything goes wrong you can redo it. Good luck! Darryn
What an absolute pleasure to watch! Thank you for these videos! I am currently also trying to protect paperback books from my childhood while displaying them in my home!
Wow! Your final product is amazingly impressive and beautiful. Truthfully, I am amazed that the resulting book, so beautiful externally, if I didn’t miss something, still depends on the quality of the original spine glue that I have so often seen releasing the pages from loved paperbacks. Thank you for freely sharing your craft! I still want to learn how to create the beautiful titleblocks for the spine, and perhaps even embossed on the face.
Thinking more about this before retiring for my night, I expected small holes to be drilled through the book along the spine behind the binding glue to permit binding the pages together more securely.
The 2 primary ways a book opens are the drape of the paper and the spine curving up. Ideally it is a combination of both balanced in a way suitable to the materials the books is made of. Any form of side stitching means the spine can't curve up and the only mechanism allowing the book to open is the bending of the paper. The paper used in most paperbacks is not suited to being the only opening mechanism for a book. So, no I wouldn't do that. The adhesive used in post 1950s commercial books is a huge topic. I think the best approach is to leave well enough alone, and deal with it when it does fail. But that is sort of true for all bookbinding.
Another gem! I can see all of the hard work you put into making these videos. They are all easy to understand and a pleasure to watch. Really incredible. I also greatly appreciate that you consciously use tools and equipment that a novice bookmaker might have on hand. It makes the projects seem much more achievable. Can't wait to see the video next week!
I made a cord bound book out of an old paperback that was falling apart. Used tissue paper and glue to turn the pages into signatures. The round easily absorbed the extra thickness.
Thanks for this demo. I have a set of softbacks to convert and it will be my first venture into using leather binding. I have taken an interest in your cutting boards and especially your cutting tools for leather. One thing I have learned about bookbinding is that tips and tricks are all important!
Good videos, I've been using a similar method of turning trade paperbacks into leather bound volumes. I do a couple of things differently. Firstly before cutting the cover to make slips I glue on a sheet of mull or fray-not over the cover extending an inch or more on both sides. This makes the joint a bit more viable. I've done books twenty years ago in this manner that have been heavily used and are still as good as ever. Secondly I don't use stick on head and tail bands . Instead I achieve a nice head and tail cap by glueing in an inside out raised band to fold the turn in leather over at head and tail. Also when using french grooves you don't ever need to bevel the boards, in fact the leather will go on a lot neater if you keep the boards square cut.
Your point about bevelling the boards, I think you mean the back cornering, because I don't remember bevelling the boards especially at the joint. It's an interesting point. I think I did this out of habit with doing a lot of springbacks in the last few years. But my very first book a long time ago was a rounded and backed book with a French groove, and I was not taught to do back corners then - though it was with cloth. My gut tells me this will result in a vulnerable sharp corner. But if this was the case 19th century library bindings would be back cornered. But checking Johnson now he does not appear to back corner in his library style bindings. I think I'll add a note to these videos pointing this out and suggesting it is optional and may be more aesthetically pleasing without. Thanks! DAS
Really helpful video. I've seen some people use toilet paper or plastic wrap tubes to create the impression of rounded spines. I don't have any paperback I want to recover, but this is very helpful and informative just the same. Love your videos!
Your videos make me so happy. I've loved books for so long, and it wasn't until I was rereading Inkheart that I realized that this is something I would love to learn how to do. Thank you for sharing your art with us :)
Your books are all so beautiful! I kinda fell down this rabbit hole because I want to bind a physical copy of something I wrote. I’ve done case bindings before, but they were super amateurish. I can only dream of having a book as beautiful as the ones you bind!
I‘m so happy I found this! I just managed to find a second-hand version online of an out-of-print wishlist book of mine (an encyclopedia about plants in folklore!) and it‘s a softcover. I‘m excited to learn how to prolong its life from you! Thanks for filming this!
I have a thick book on the American Civil War that was given to me when I was a kid, and it kickstarted my interest in history. The spine has been falling apart for several years now, so I've been hesitant to enjoy it lest I make the damage any worse. Now I've got a plan, thanks to you!
Or check out my other video where I retain the original covers and spine. Or wait until I do a video on how to repair to original. Just not enough hours in the day.... Ciao, DAS
I apologise in advance for part 2. I remember when I lived in WI and I was trying to follow the Packers. They'd look like they were on their way to the SB, and then Favre would get the ball and throw wildly. Part 2 gives me that same feeling. I don;t want to put you off, but I'll make it up to you in another video. Take care, Darryn
I am glad that you fold those sheets of paper that you glue on. I just know that I would set that sheet aside and invariably put something on top of it. :)
It seems to a fairly widely done thing by bookbinders. I was certainly taught to do it. If you are going loose focus on a waste sheet with adhesive on it, always fold it. Sometimes you will use the same sheet repeatedly, maybe moving back an inch each time you glue something, but in this case you are always focused on it. DAS
That was an excellent video! Made me appreciate the bookbinders so much more! You make it look extremely simple, but I can immediately tell its not! (I was stuck in a trance through a lot of the video, it's almost ASMR-ily hypnotic!)
Thank you so much for starting this series! I’ve been wanting to reuse text blocks so that I can avoid having to go through the trouble of printing (and maybe the threading too, ha!). As a hobbyist most of the books I’ve bound have been blank journals, but now I want to apply some creativity to the covers of classic books. I think this tutorial will be the perfect starting point. I really appreciate how you make your tutorials. Especially when you give measurements in context and explain in a way that can be universally applicable to different projects. I can’t wait for part 2!
I hope it's not disappointing. I would only apply this technique to softcover books that are perfect bound and the binding is solid. To rebind a nice book I think I would try and pull the book back to sections/signatures and resew and do a nicer binding. All the best, DAS
I recently got the entire Bridgerton series (8 main books) in paperback but the modern covers are definitely not my style. This kind of gives me an idea of what I want, but I am leaning more towards fabric rather than leather. That choice is primarily a sensory thing.
Absolutely fantastic - as usual. I have some old paper back text books that are losing their covers and exposing the text, but they are printed on good quality paper; and so they should they were expensive enough. I was considering deconstructing them as they are printed on signatures but I don’t know if the signatures are sewn together as a text block. This solution just fits the bill exactly and will save me a lot of unnecessary deconstruction - many thanks. P.S. it was your videos that inspired me to attempt to rebind them in the first place.
Good luck! If they are in sections I would just do a test to see if you can get the spine adhesive off, maybe with some heat. Just a small test, just enough to see if you can. If so then I would recommend do a cloth covered library binding with proper rounding and backing. I'd also recommend giving the false bands a miss. All the best, DAS
Oh hey, you put out a guide just as I put out my imgur tutorial. I'm excited to see how much I screwed up compared to your method! Ah yes, I tried to do this and I screwed up the split board so bad I went with a different method. I like this method! The only time this won't work is when the spine is crooked from the get go. I decided to go with scraping off the glue, removing the cover, and doing a perfect bind with PVA. I couldn't do a Lumbeck (tried, failed) because the factory glue was impossible to clean off without making a huge wavy/curved mess out of the text block.
As usually Fantastic! Indeed, this is the best way to preserve an old perfect bounded paperback . In order to improve back durability, I could dear to suggest sawing the back with sawcuts at an angle of 45o to the back and insert linen twine or polyester crocket threads and then to proceed as you did. (Full process @ Banister, Manly: “The Craft of Bookbinding”; pp 127 - 131). I have tested it and it gives much strength to the back. I seize the opportunity to say a huge thanks for your videos and instructions. This is a live school of bookbinding of an extremely high value by a great Professor. We owe you a lot!
Hi! Thanks for your comments. I wouldn't recommend this for the long term preservation of paperbacks. It's just for show. If I was removing the original hot melt adhesive I might but in cords, as per what I say about it in the Lumbeck video. As I say in that video some people feel it actually reduces long term stability by reducing throw-up of the spine and thus the book becomes more reliant on the drape of the paper. Banister follows mostly standard technique, but I would recommend Town, Burdett, or Johnson in preference. All the best, Darryn
It's midnight here in Washington state. I am drunk sitting by my fire and now I think I will try this on one of my wife's lesser books. This is why I love you tube. I actually was upset that I didn't see the finished product. #firstworldproblems
Aesthetically, I like what you've done here. It does have some practical advantages as well, given that it does preserve the original spine adhesive, and reduces the need for rebinding this element, particularly if the original adhesive isn't compromising durability, and the original cover isn't important enough to preserve. However, if it is a consideration to preserve the cover and to add a rounded spine, then you might interested in Peter Godwin's video. He removes the original adhesive, rebacks the book, (including rounding), delaminates the original cover, and glues it to buckram covers. It also is a nice effect with certain other practical advantages.
I wish I had Peter's video on this. It doesn't appear to be available any more. When I first started thinking about this months ago I looked for it and couldn't find it. Yes, if you pull the book you can round it, in which case I wouldn't use this technique. I thought this was going to be a simpler approach, but I'm not sure any more:) All the best, Darryn
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for keeping this craft alive for another generation. I never realized how many parts there are to a book! Would it be possible to post a series of videos on the basic tools and materials of the trade to distinguish basic (me) to advanced (future me) so I don’t get overwhelmed or go broke unnecessarily? Thank you again!
In the comments there is a link to the guide for the channel. In it you should find a link to a tools video. Don't spend too much! ruclips.net/video/FBGfRTnBUNk/видео.html
I like what you have done here (and in part 2). My reason for wanting to convert a paperback , you notice I didn't say into a hardcover, is that I like my reading to fit into my coat pocket. This means when I get my latest history book at 3" thick it needs splitting into 4, or maybe 3), separate volumes. I have the idea, but no real idea of how to execute it, of essentially turning it into a boxed set with the cover of the box being mostly the original covers and spine. :)
Thanks so much for this tutorial. I recently bought a hard-cover book from a university press, and was disappointed to receive a perfect-bound text block with an ill-fitting hard cover. The cover creaked and ripped away more and more from the text block every time I opened it. The spine seemed to be too wide for the thickness of the text block. Eventually, I just pulled it off. I've been looking for a way to make a better cover since then. The book still has heavy card stock waste sheets (almost like a soft cover within the hard cover), so I think this method will work.
Good luck. This method relies of a well attached original cover as the insert for the split-board. You'll have to attach new ones for this purpose. The glue used on the spine of these types of books is notoriously difficult to adhere to. I've had to completely remove the original heat activated adhesive and rebind using the double-fan to then move forward. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding - It's an oddly-constructed book. When I pulled off the hard case, it was like I was left with a soft cover book. The end pages are thick card stock that wrap the spine, so there's no exposed glue.
Our dextrous friend makes this look easier than it is. It requires considerable skill as well as the special cutting tools, clamps, and adhesives shown. This is an ingenious way to create a hardcover for a paperback book. But remember his initial remarks regarding the acidity and low quality of most commercial paperbacks -- a hard cover does not mitigate those problems or extend the life of bad paper, although it does extend the useful life of the book for a few more years. This is not a technique to use on valuable old books. Historically significant books are better left intact to preserve their value, and some damaged and fragile old books should not be rebound at all. My company, Devon Book Printing, preserves such books without altering the original. Most of the books we rebind using traditional methods are relatively modern hard cover editions. But for cheap modern paperbacks, the method shown here is better than any I have seen elsewhere.
I have so many interests that I'll frequently create one or two of something then go on to the next thing. Like bookbinding. A *very* long time ago (late 70's maybe,) I rebound a perfect bound book of my sister's that I'd just about worn out with re-reading. If you think bookbinding info is scarce now, imagine what it was like then. However, one tip I picked up, which you may already know but perhaps wasn't applicable for this book re: rounding the spine. I took took the book completely apart, squared up the pages, put it in the press with the spine proud then rubbed a piece of 2" masking tape down on the spine. Removed it from the press, carefully created the shape it should have (poke a finger in the fore edge and it kind of naturally went that way,) stuck it back in the press with the spine proud again, and proceeded to glue the h*ll out of it. Best I know, that book is still in one piece.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, this is common in small commercial operations. There is a double-fan machine that has different sized rounds that you can use if you want rounded Lumbecked book. Or you can cut a bit of PVC pipe. It was a step more than I wanted to go in this video. Happy binding! DAS
I had a house fire many years ago and a number of prized novels had their spines chard and made the glue brittle. I think I'm going to shave the glue and replace it and recover them. The front of the cover is fine so I think I will save it for the inside cover. I worked at a print shop and one of the services I preformed was making tear away scratch pads so this work is partly farmiliar to me
Huh, using the existing cover for the board attachment is pretty clever. Not what I would do (I'd cut the spine off and double fan the pages) but certainly a good option for a novice. That trick with the cord shoulders is very clever, it solves a problem I'm going to have soon. An old schoolfriend has commissioned me to rebind her set of Harry Potter books in half leather; I'd planned to do a library binding, assuming they would be sewn in signatures, but it turns out that even though they're hardback the textblocks are perfect bound. My plan of attack was to cut off the spines, double fan the textblocks with a slight round (jogging them against a curved surface before clamping up for gluing), tip on endpages with waste sheets, glue on a sturdy cloth spine lining (muslin or ticking) that overlaps onto the waste sheets, then proceed with split board attachment as normal. The problem I couldn't figure out was how to avoid the board standing proud of the spine due to the lack of a shoulder, but using a piece of cord might solve that. My other idea was to shape the spine edge of the board so it tapers to a point and continues the round, then glue it to the waste sheet flush with the edge for a tight joint (cloth lining going over the top) to avoid the shoulder problem all together, but I think I'd need to get very clever with the hollow to make that open nicely. Given me something to think about.
Hi Ed. It seemed like a good idea and went well in the prototype. Now I'm not sure it's simpler. Putting the false bands on really complicated it. Removing the spine has a huge advantage of being able to double-fan with some round. If you time it just right so the adhesive is still tacky you can usually put shoulders on a book done this way too. Much easier in a bindery with a backer. I'll be glad once this project is behind me:) All the best, Darryn
Hello there. Thank you for this video. Very much appreciated in an era where "go online..." are generally the first words when you see information on any topic. As a planner lover. Every year I spend a considerable amount of time each year finding a planner the will work for the new year. There seems to be less leather book type planners and more coil or binder types. This year I have identified what I would consider the "ideal planner". White pages, the month view comes just before the weekly appointments. There is plenty of room to jot down notes and impressions. The problem is that the cover is not elegant. It is plastic and there is really no smooth way to add ribbons. This year, the planner was most appealing on the outside but not as functional as I would have liked in the inside. I considered reusing/recycling the old planner cover attached to this years planner for next year, however the books are different sizes and I cannot user the cover this year for next. Do you have any ideas on how I may replace the plastic cover with the coil to something more professional and elegant with a harder more leather like feel that I can possibly personalize with gold lettering?
Coil bound "books" are hard to do anything with because of the perforations along the spine edges. You can cut them off and do a double-fan binding. But not really durable enough for an annual planner. Good luck! DAS
I thought of doing something like that, but using the same method used to make rounded fronts on clamshells. 2 problems, the stiff spine makes the book difficult to open and it looks a bit strange with the rounded spine but flat fore-edge. Everything is a compromise in bookbinding.
I was looking for a way to make a insertable hardcover for paperback books. Like you somehow put the book in a hardcover that you can easily remove and use for another soft cover book. No idea how that would work, but it would be neat, because you keep the book in it's original state and dont damage it by accident.
So what is the purpose of the hard cover in this case? To make it look nice on the bookcase? I just ask because I love the look of my paperbacks as they are. If it's to somehow preserve a paperback then putting it in a hardcover doesn't really do that. But there are lots of options that do from a 10 minute phase case to a 3 hour clamshell enclosure. You can make nice spines for these so they look nice on the shelf, and the book is protected in a "micro climate".
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So this is where my midnight youtube adventure leads me to today. Sweet.
It was 11:58 as I clicked on this video
Happy watch until 4am
01:22 here
Follow me to more Midnight RUclips ventures! I will be your guide!
same, 2:30 here :)
There’s so little bookbinding info on the internet, it makes it hard for younger people like me to learn, this channel has been a godsend tho!!
You can probably find more about bookbinding if you search for articles or books about book history or codicology instead of going straight for book binding. It's more how it was historically made instead of a modern take, but it can show you a lot of techniques as well
What helped me learn a lot about bookbinding is watching professionals like DAS and trying my best to copy what I see in the videos. Looking back to my first attempts at making books, they were horrible and cringy, but it is so rewarding to see how far I have come skill-wise!:) There is still so much for me to learn, but what I feel is key is to keep tying to do better and learn from my (many) mistakes. Never give up!:)
DAS does proper old school bookbinding which is great. For a 'younger approach check out sea lemon's bookbinding videos. Non-traditional but pretty good for beginners.
I do appreciate that you show your mistakes. It makes me feel less of a numpty when I do the same thing.
Hi John. You're certainly not a numpty! All the best! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Probably not but when you cut your corner 1 - 1.5 mm too close to the book board you do tend to wonder! LOL
Numpty! Now thats a word ive never heard! I like it lol.
Just be more careful and you won’t make mistakes
@Deangelo Brentley nobody cares
I've been trying to learn how to become a hobbyist bookbinder for a little while now... And this was one of the greatest tutorials I've seen!!!!!! Thank you!!!
I knew a guy who used to do that when I was a kid. It was a friend's grandfather who was retired. He had all these paperbacks that he turned into hardcover. He had shelves full of them because even the library wouldn't take them (he said he tried). Some of the old guys restored cars, others did carpentry/woodwork, this was his thing. I have to admit that I though he was doing that for books that I didn't think were worth saving, but that's what he did and it made him happy. God, I haven't though of him in years.
Great to see that a professional, taking time to show how he does his job. There is no hesitation in the steps and most of the work is done by eye or feel. as a carpenter this is the same for me. As an apprentice I would be constantly afraid of doing mistakes, but as I have gotten more experience. I’m noticing my mistakes as I’m making them, and are just working around them. Without any thought or anger. And the end result is always better. I love to watch old crafts by craftsmen. And you are a without doubt a craftsman. I understand your frustration in using your experience and time in turning a worthless pocket book to a leatherback. But to comfort you. This is pure entertainment for me.
Thanks! I love watching other craftspeople work too. I may have no intensions of ever using the technical skills being demonstrated, but watching the efficiency of movement, work flow, and their style of demonstration is always interesting and an opportunity to learn and improve. All the best, Darryn
I am glad that you, a professional, did this video. I have watched the same videos by amateurs and the amount of rookie mistakes are uncountable, yet people are applauding them like they did some kind of masterpiece. You have to learn from a master of the trade or you'll end up picking bad habits and do a mediocre job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Much appreciated.
Don't know why, but RUclips is full of videos of people binding without a clue.... I wonder if parachuting has this problem?
There is something to be said to just wanting to make your books look or feel a certain way. It’s not always to mimic them being older or more expensive or to assume that you’re making them more sturdy or that they will last forever. Sometimes it’s just that you want to make them fit your bookshelf or personality better.
I agree , I want to rebind my paperback books , Why ? Not to make them look older ,but to make them last longer . I care about these books , I want them forever, "put some respect on the books"
I have a cheap copy of Gormenghast that I first read in high school. It is now crumbling in my hands.
But when you talk about your love of that favorite old book, it made me smile.
We love books because we read them. We want them to last forever. They become like family.
Good video
3:am I m watching a craftsman bind a book , and I have no idea how I got here nor thought I’d watch any of it let alone till the end,, well done sir , this is really interesting, Informative, and thanks for sharing your craft
Samee!
3:57
You, sir, have just saved my paperback bibles!
Thank you so much, you too Linda. I have been wanting to have the feel of an old Gothic library but could never find or afford to buy all hard covered books I want even at thrift shops. This will be a nice project one year. Great information.
Enjoyed the video. It's almost an ASMR video. I appreciated that the sound was left on during the whole video.
My group decide to follow the idea of converting a paperback by using the split board method. We weren't too bothered about the leather work but followed the concept until then. It was quite correct that the cover needed to be in good condition and well attached to the text block. One member, with her 2nd book, tried it with a weak cover which detached from the book. The solution was to put a piece of fraynot round the spine onto the tongues. We thought the results were good. It's an interesting concept to stick the leaher with PVA - far harder than making some flour and water paste and using that! Thank you for the tutorial as always.
I have the same issue. I have a paperback that ive had for over a decade. Its one of my favourite books in general, but the particular copy i have is a very sentimental item itself. Over the years of re-reading its falling apart. So i want to make it a hardcover. Your the first person ive found that actually shows the process tho.
Before using this method, check out my latest video which preserves the original covers. If it's falling apart you will need to use the double-fan method to put it back together. Good luck! DAS
There is a lot of subtlety in this art and your explanations are great. Thank you for this.
Two minutes of watching this video (the first time I've seen any of your videos) and I'm subscribed.
Many years ago a man transferred a paperback copy of Huckleberry Finn to a hardcover for me. He didn't charge me a nickle for the job. That book will be cared for as long as I live and hopefully will be passed on to my children and theirs.
I do love books. A lot. Thank you so much!
So happy to have new videos I'm rewatching the old ones for inspiration
I have a really thick copy of _The Lord of the Rings_ in paperback, and I had thought about utilizing the pre existing cover, so thank you so much for showing a method for that! I'm really exited for how it might turn out!
Great to see how this is done! Also, the background sounds of the work being done were a great touch for the video :)
Thanks! Wish there was less background noise from the road outside my house:) All the best, DAS
It is a beautiful rendition of the goldberg variations.
I was working on turning one of my beloved paperbacks into a hardback and I was doing it right!! This video is awesome!!
Preserving past and present art for future generations...
Thank you for sharing your GIFT...
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You're an amazing artist..!
Thank you! Cheers! DAS
I tried this in 1986 in my teens, but used bog oak veneers cut to 3mm thickness, I glued using horse glue and hand engraved the title and used gold leaf embossing. The book was Orwell’s animal farm printed in 1946. 35 years later and it’s still intact. I didn’t know it at the time but apparently this first edition print is very rare. The oak is still good too.
That adventures of bookbinding is magnificent and amazing
I don't know why, but this is extremely relaxing!
This is the best youtube channel!!!!!
Not the best, but I'm glad you like it! DAS
I am a bookbinder also.
Only a real master can make such a beautiful book with the tools and techniques that I usually see. I have learned a lot, thank you!
Great video. I love the use of cord to mimic a proper rounded and backed book. A technique I have used when repairing/ converting paperbacks is to make some saw cuts through the spine of the perfect binding and glue in some thin linen threads. Then when i cover that with fraynot it really keeps the binding from falling apart as a lot of perfect bindings are flimsy.
I don't remember if I mentioned that the false shoulders come from the famous binder Thomas Harrison. I'm guessing you mean Lumbecking or double-fan binding as Perfect binding is machine binding that isn't worth trying to replicate by hand. I've gone off inserting cord in the spine of Lumbecked books. If the spine is going to be fragile for some reason, such as a thick book I might still do it. Years ago when I did many of these, I eventually had a few very well used books, such as cookbooks, come back to me. Ones I hadn't put cords into the spine were easily cleaned off and rebound. But if I'd inserted cords it was harder to Lumbeck them again without trimming the spine a bit. So I figure without the cord the book might need rebinding sooner if it is heavily used, but the spine edges remain in good condition. But a lot of books never get read and it doesn't matter. That's where I'm at with this. But I might change if someone has strong evidence that it is better.
The 4th book binding video I have watched ever great job I’ve enjoyed watching this from soft back to hardback and great information thanks for sharing 😇😎
My grandmother bought me a paperback Bible and I’m going to do this so it does not fall apart. Thank you for this video, extremely helpful.
Try it on scrap book first! DAS
Thank you! My best friend gave me their childhood books for me to rebind so that they can last. I'm going to follow this video to do so. The covers are *mostly* intact, just heavily creased and scratched. Using part of the covers is a wonderful way to keep the soul in the books
I’ve been looking for a decent guy for this for so long, yours is the best I’ve seen by far.
Thank you for talking us through the whole process! It seems so do-able when explained this way.
Wow! Never thought of doing this way. I always took book apart in similar projects. But really want to try this way now. Thank you for your videos and inspiration!
I think Linda originally suggested it to me as an idea. It was such a good idea that I decided to follow up on it. All the best, DAS
as a beginner bookbinder I absolutely adore your channel, it has helped me so much! I've only bound 4 or five books so far, but it's my goal to eventually bind leather books in that classic style (and learn all the vocabulary you use in your videos haha). Thank you for the help!
A very timely posting, thank you. I am investigating methods of recovering an 1897 edition of a law book. The covers are off. It is rounded and still has good shoulders so raised bands will look nice on it. I will look at your video on split board bindings as well. This will be in full leather and I’ve been asked to put in marbled endpapers as there were just plain paper endpapers originally. I so,appreciate your videos, I’m still on a steep learning curve and your videos are making me a better binder
Hi Cynthia. I highly recommend following the cloth library binding rather than this video. Also, the raised bands make this binding more complicated than I would like. The more I think about it, I think you should do it as a cased binding. Then you can do the bands and finishing off the book. If anything goes wrong you can redo it. Good luck! Darryn
DUDE!!! I have the complete series on DVD, and I've watched it three times already! Excellent choice to convert to hardcover! :)
I've been looking for this tutorial for months now. A decent looking quality conversion without too much frills. Thank you
The split board attachment is a bit complex. I also have a simpler version. Ciao, DAS
@@DASBookbinding i actually bingewatched a fair few video's after this one. Really informative, love your style.
What an absolute pleasure to watch! Thank you for these videos! I am currently also trying to protect paperback books from my childhood while displaying them in my home!
Wow! Your final product is amazingly impressive and beautiful. Truthfully, I am amazed that the resulting book, so beautiful externally, if I didn’t miss something, still depends on the quality of the original spine glue that I have so often seen releasing the pages from loved paperbacks. Thank you for freely sharing your craft! I still want to learn how to create the beautiful titleblocks for the spine, and perhaps even embossed on the face.
Thinking more about this before retiring for my night, I expected small holes to be drilled through the book along the spine behind the binding glue to permit binding the pages together more securely.
The 2 primary ways a book opens are the drape of the paper and the spine curving up. Ideally it is a combination of both balanced in a way suitable to the materials the books is made of. Any form of side stitching means the spine can't curve up and the only mechanism allowing the book to open is the bending of the paper. The paper used in most paperbacks is not suited to being the only opening mechanism for a book. So, no I wouldn't do that. The adhesive used in post 1950s commercial books is a huge topic. I think the best approach is to leave well enough alone, and deal with it when it does fail. But that is sort of true for all bookbinding.
Another gem! I can see all of the hard work you put into making these videos. They are all easy to understand and a pleasure to watch. Really incredible. I also greatly appreciate that you consciously use tools and equipment that a novice bookmaker might have on hand. It makes the projects seem much more achievable.
Can't wait to see the video next week!
The goal was to do something a novice can do. This project gets a bit hairy in part 2 which I'm not happy about:( All the best, DAS
Love the gift wrapped brick
Enjoyed the Goldberg Variations on Guitar here!
ive been wanting to make some of my older paper back books some better covers and this really helps! Thank you!
I made a cord bound book out of an old paperback that was falling apart. Used tissue paper and glue to turn the pages into signatures. The round easily absorbed the extra thickness.
Thanks for this demo. I have a set of softbacks to convert and it will be my first venture into using leather binding. I have taken an interest in your cutting boards and especially your cutting tools for leather. One thing I have learned about bookbinding is that tips and tricks are all important!
Good videos, I've been using a similar method of turning trade paperbacks into leather bound volumes. I do a couple of things differently. Firstly before cutting the cover to make slips I glue on a sheet of mull or fray-not over the cover extending an inch or more on both sides. This makes the joint a bit more viable. I've done books twenty years ago in this manner that have been heavily used and are still as good as ever. Secondly I don't use stick on head and tail bands . Instead I achieve a nice head and tail cap by glueing in an inside out raised band to fold the turn in leather over at head and tail. Also when using french grooves you don't ever need to bevel the boards, in fact the leather will go on a lot neater if you keep the boards square cut.
Your point about bevelling the boards, I think you mean the back cornering, because I don't remember bevelling the boards especially at the joint. It's an interesting point. I think I did this out of habit with doing a lot of springbacks in the last few years. But my very first book a long time ago was a rounded and backed book with a French groove, and I was not taught to do back corners then - though it was with cloth. My gut tells me this will result in a vulnerable sharp corner. But if this was the case 19th century library bindings would be back cornered. But checking Johnson now he does not appear to back corner in his library style bindings. I think I'll add a note to these videos pointing this out and suggesting it is optional and may be more aesthetically pleasing without. Thanks! DAS
Really helpful video. I've seen some people use toilet paper or plastic wrap tubes to create the impression of rounded spines. I don't have any paperback I want to recover, but this is very helpful and informative just the same. Love your videos!
Your videos make me so happy. I've loved books for so long, and it wasn't until I was rereading Inkheart that I realized that this is something I would love to learn how to do. Thank you for sharing your art with us :)
Your books are all so beautiful! I kinda fell down this rabbit hole because I want to bind a physical copy of something I wrote. I’ve done case bindings before, but they were super amateurish. I can only dream of having a book as beautiful as the ones you bind!
I‘m so happy I found this! I just managed to find a second-hand version online of an out-of-print wishlist book of mine (an encyclopedia about plants in folklore!) and it‘s a softcover. I‘m excited to learn how to prolong its life from you! Thanks for filming this!
I have a thick book on the American Civil War that was given to me when I was a kid, and it kickstarted my interest in history. The spine has been falling apart for several years now, so I've been hesitant to enjoy it lest I make the damage any worse. Now I've got a plan, thanks to you!
Or check out my other video where I retain the original covers and spine. Or wait until I do a video on how to repair to original. Just not enough hours in the day.... Ciao, DAS
Hello from Scotland! I look forward to trying this out
Hope you enjoy! DAS
I really appreciate how approachable you made this method, moving on to video 2 - thank you!
Awesome detail information. I feel alot more confident to start my project.
Thank you!!
absolutely fascinating video for someone still relatively new to bookbinding. feel like I just watched a masterclass !! :^D
Nice! Can't wait for Part 2 😃👍
I apologise in advance for part 2. I remember when I lived in WI and I was trying to follow the Packers. They'd look like they were on their way to the SB, and then Favre would get the ball and throw wildly. Part 2 gives me that same feeling. I don;t want to put you off, but I'll make it up to you in another video. Take care, Darryn
Really ingenious and fascinating to watch. I didn't know this was even possible.
I am glad that you fold those sheets of paper that you glue on. I just know that I would set that sheet aside and invariably put something on top of it. :)
It seems to a fairly widely done thing by bookbinders. I was certainly taught to do it. If you are going loose focus on a waste sheet with adhesive on it, always fold it. Sometimes you will use the same sheet repeatedly, maybe moving back an inch each time you glue something, but in this case you are always focused on it. DAS
Interesting version of the Goldberg Variations. 👍
That was an excellent video! Made me appreciate the bookbinders so much more! You make it look extremely simple, but I can immediately tell its not! (I was stuck in a trance through a lot of the video, it's almost ASMR-ily hypnotic!)
This is just great. Thank you very much
Thank you so much for starting this series! I’ve been wanting to reuse text blocks so that I can avoid having to go through the trouble of printing (and maybe the threading too, ha!). As a hobbyist most of the books I’ve bound have been blank journals, but now I want to apply some creativity to the covers of classic books. I think this tutorial will be the perfect starting point.
I really appreciate how you make your tutorials. Especially when you give measurements in context and explain in a way that can be universally applicable to different projects. I can’t wait for part 2!
I hope it's not disappointing. I would only apply this technique to softcover books that are perfect bound and the binding is solid. To rebind a nice book I think I would try and pull the book back to sections/signatures and resew and do a nicer binding. All the best, DAS
I recently got the entire Bridgerton series (8 main books) in paperback but the modern covers are definitely not my style. This kind of gives me an idea of what I want, but I am leaning more towards fabric rather than leather. That choice is primarily a sensory thing.
Thank you so much for making this video! It's gonna be so useful when I try doing this myself!
"Shuffled off this mortal coil..." 🥰
I wish to see this video with no commentary and in normal speed! That would be so relaxing
Absolutely fantastic - as usual. I have some old paper back text books that are losing their covers and exposing the text, but they are printed on good quality paper; and so they should they were expensive enough. I was considering deconstructing them as they are printed on signatures but I don’t know if the signatures are sewn together as a text block. This solution just fits the bill exactly and will save me a lot of unnecessary deconstruction - many thanks.
P.S. it was your videos that inspired me to attempt to rebind them in the first place.
Good luck! If they are in sections I would just do a test to see if you can get the spine adhesive off, maybe with some heat. Just a small test, just enough to see if you can. If so then I would recommend do a cloth covered library binding with proper rounding and backing. I'd also recommend giving the false bands a miss. All the best, DAS
thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! very helpful videos!
Oh hey, you put out a guide just as I put out my imgur tutorial. I'm excited to see how much I screwed up compared to your method!
Ah yes, I tried to do this and I screwed up the split board so bad I went with a different method. I like this method!
The only time this won't work is when the spine is crooked from the get go. I decided to go with scraping off the glue, removing the cover, and doing a perfect bind with PVA. I couldn't do a Lumbeck (tried, failed) because the factory glue was impossible to clean off without making a huge wavy/curved mess out of the text block.
As usually Fantastic! Indeed, this is the best way to preserve an old perfect bounded paperback . In order to improve back durability, I could dear to suggest sawing the back with sawcuts at an angle of 45o to the back and insert linen twine or polyester crocket threads and then to proceed as you did. (Full process @ Banister, Manly: “The Craft of Bookbinding”; pp 127 - 131). I have tested it and it gives much strength to the back.
I seize the opportunity to say a huge thanks for your videos and instructions. This is a live school of bookbinding of an extremely high value by a great Professor. We owe you a lot!
Hi! Thanks for your comments. I wouldn't recommend this for the long term preservation of paperbacks. It's just for show. If I was removing the original hot melt adhesive I might but in cords, as per what I say about it in the Lumbeck video. As I say in that video some people feel it actually reduces long term stability by reducing throw-up of the spine and thus the book becomes more reliant on the drape of the paper. Banister follows mostly standard technique, but I would recommend Town, Burdett, or Johnson in preference. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thank you Darryn! I feel lucky and happy that I am your follower.
It's midnight here in Washington state. I am drunk sitting by my fire and now I think I will try this on one of my wife's lesser books. This is why I love you tube. I actually was upset that I didn't see the finished product. #firstworldproblems
Appreciate it, I'll be making measures to apply much of this to my practice. Alot of inspiration for myself as such a novice.
Really great, I love all your ideas, lovely accent, and presentation. 🥰
These videos are so satisfying to watch.
I appreciate your craftsmanship and wisdom.
You've got yourself a Subscriber 😃
Thanks and welcome! DAS
Mesmo não entendendo seu idioma, consegui acompanhar, é sempre uma aula maravilhosa. Obrigada por compartilhar.
Very glad you found the video useful. Yours, Darryn
This is excellent 👌
That, Sir, is awesome.
Aesthetically, I like what you've done here. It does have some practical advantages as well, given that it does preserve the original spine adhesive, and reduces the need for rebinding this element, particularly if the original adhesive isn't compromising durability, and the original cover isn't important enough to preserve. However, if it is a consideration to preserve the cover and to add a rounded spine, then you might interested in Peter Godwin's video. He removes the original adhesive, rebacks the book, (including rounding), delaminates the original cover, and glues it to buckram covers. It also is a nice effect with certain other practical advantages.
irishguy13 Do you have a link where we might find this video?
I wish I had Peter's video on this. It doesn't appear to be available any more. When I first started thinking about this months ago I looked for it and couldn't find it. Yes, if you pull the book you can round it, in which case I wouldn't use this technique. I thought this was going to be a simpler approach, but I'm not sure any more:) All the best, Darryn
Amazing love you books ❤
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for keeping this craft alive for another generation. I never realized how many parts there are to a book! Would it be possible to post a series of videos on the basic tools and materials of the trade to distinguish basic (me) to advanced (future me) so I don’t get overwhelmed or go broke unnecessarily? Thank you again!
In the comments there is a link to the guide for the channel. In it you should find a link to a tools video. Don't spend too much!
ruclips.net/video/FBGfRTnBUNk/видео.html
@@DASBookbinding ! Thank you! I think I have everything I need to attempt my first book conversion!
I like what you have done here (and in part 2). My reason for wanting to convert a paperback , you notice I didn't say into a hardcover, is that I like my reading to fit into my coat pocket. This means when I get my latest history book at 3" thick it needs splitting into 4, or maybe 3), separate volumes. I have the idea, but no real idea of how to execute it, of essentially turning it into a boxed set with the cover of the box being mostly the original covers and spine.
:)
For the box you might consider a slip case. Easy and fast to make especially if you don;t put a rounded opening. Good luck, DAS
Thanks so much for this tutorial.
I recently bought a hard-cover book from a university press, and was disappointed to receive a perfect-bound text block with an ill-fitting hard cover. The cover creaked and ripped away more and more from the text block every time I opened it. The spine seemed to be too wide for the thickness of the text block. Eventually, I just pulled it off.
I've been looking for a way to make a better cover since then. The book still has heavy card stock waste sheets (almost like a soft cover within the hard cover), so I think this method will work.
Good luck. This method relies of a well attached original cover as the insert for the split-board. You'll have to attach new ones for this purpose. The glue used on the spine of these types of books is notoriously difficult to adhere to. I've had to completely remove the original heat activated adhesive and rebind using the double-fan to then move forward. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding - It's an oddly-constructed book. When I pulled off the hard case, it was like I was left with a soft cover book. The end pages are thick card stock that wrap the spine, so there's no exposed glue.
Our dextrous friend makes this look easier than it is. It requires considerable skill as well as the special cutting tools, clamps, and adhesives shown. This is an ingenious way to create a hardcover for a paperback book. But remember his initial remarks regarding the acidity and low quality of most commercial paperbacks -- a hard cover does not mitigate those problems or extend the life of bad paper, although it does extend the useful life of the book for a few more years.
This is not a technique to use on valuable old books. Historically significant books are better left intact to preserve their value, and some damaged and fragile old books should not be rebound at all. My company, Devon Book Printing, preserves such books without altering the original. Most of the books we rebind using traditional methods are relatively modern hard cover editions. But for cheap modern paperbacks, the method shown here is better than any I have seen elsewhere.
Very nice and informative video. Learnt a lot from this 👍👍
I have so many interests that I'll frequently create one or two of something then go on to the next thing. Like bookbinding. A *very* long time ago (late 70's maybe,) I rebound a perfect bound book of my sister's that I'd just about worn out with re-reading. If you think bookbinding info is scarce now, imagine what it was like then. However, one tip I picked up, which you may already know but perhaps wasn't applicable for this book re: rounding the spine. I took took the book completely apart, squared up the pages, put it in the press with the spine proud then rubbed a piece of 2" masking tape down on the spine. Removed it from the press, carefully created the shape it should have (poke a finger in the fore edge and it kind of naturally went that way,) stuck it back in the press with the spine proud again, and proceeded to glue the h*ll out of it. Best I know, that book is still in one piece.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, this is common in small commercial operations. There is a double-fan machine that has different sized rounds that you can use if you want rounded Lumbecked book. Or you can cut a bit of PVC pipe. It was a step more than I wanted to go in this video. Happy binding! DAS
I had a house fire many years ago and a number of prized novels had their spines chard and made the glue brittle. I think I'm going to shave the glue and replace it and recover them. The front of the cover is fine so I think I will save it for the inside cover. I worked at a print shop and one of the services I preformed was making tear away scratch pads so this work is partly farmiliar to me
Sounds like a big job. Good luck! DAS
I'd love to do this I just wish there was a written list of materials
This was exactly what I was looking for, Thank you!
this is amazing, definitely going to try it on my own books.
Huh, using the existing cover for the board attachment is pretty clever. Not what I would do (I'd cut the spine off and double fan the pages) but certainly a good option for a novice. That trick with the cord shoulders is very clever, it solves a problem I'm going to have soon. An old schoolfriend has commissioned me to rebind her set of Harry Potter books in half leather; I'd planned to do a library binding, assuming they would be sewn in signatures, but it turns out that even though they're hardback the textblocks are perfect bound. My plan of attack was to cut off the spines, double fan the textblocks with a slight round (jogging them against a curved surface before clamping up for gluing), tip on endpages with waste sheets, glue on a sturdy cloth spine lining (muslin or ticking) that overlaps onto the waste sheets, then proceed with split board attachment as normal. The problem I couldn't figure out was how to avoid the board standing proud of the spine due to the lack of a shoulder, but using a piece of cord might solve that. My other idea was to shape the spine edge of the board so it tapers to a point and continues the round, then glue it to the waste sheet flush with the edge for a tight joint (cloth lining going over the top) to avoid the shoulder problem all together, but I think I'd need to get very clever with the hollow to make that open nicely. Given me something to think about.
Hi Ed. It seemed like a good idea and went well in the prototype. Now I'm not sure it's simpler. Putting the false bands on really complicated it. Removing the spine has a huge advantage of being able to double-fan with some round. If you time it just right so the adhesive is still tacky you can usually put shoulders on a book done this way too. Much easier in a bindery with a backer. I'll be glad once this project is behind me:) All the best, Darryn
Hello there. Thank you for this video. Very much appreciated in an era where "go online..." are generally the first words when you see information on any topic. As a planner lover. Every year I spend a considerable amount of time each year finding a planner the will work for the new year. There seems to be less leather book type planners and more coil or binder types. This year I have identified what I would consider the "ideal planner". White pages, the month view comes just before the weekly appointments. There is plenty of room to jot down notes and impressions. The problem is that the cover is not elegant. It is plastic and there is really no smooth way to add ribbons. This year, the planner was most appealing on the outside but not as functional as I would have liked in the inside. I considered reusing/recycling the old planner cover attached to this years planner for next year, however the books are different sizes and I cannot user the cover this year for next. Do you have any ideas on how I may replace the plastic cover with the coil to something more professional and elegant with a harder more leather like feel that I can possibly personalize with gold lettering?
Coil bound "books" are hard to do anything with because of the perforations along the spine edges. You can cut them off and do a double-fan binding. But not really durable enough for an annual planner. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you
Goldberg variations on guitar! Based and bachpilled!
Don’t know why I’m watching ? Will never hv the skill or the patience to make this 😂😅 good job tho 🤩
Interesting video, nicely edited
Fascinating.
It' much more convenient to glue only one end page, trim the edge and after that glue the second one.
10:56 To make a round spine on a hard flat spine, how about using a wooden dowel that you split/cut to get that arched profile that you wanted?
I thought of doing something like that, but using the same method used to make rounded fronts on clamshells. 2 problems, the stiff spine makes the book difficult to open and it looks a bit strange with the rounded spine but flat fore-edge. Everything is a compromise in bookbinding.
I was looking for a way to make a insertable hardcover for paperback books.
Like you somehow put the book in a hardcover that you can easily remove and use for another soft cover book.
No idea how that would work, but it would be neat, because you keep the book in it's original state and dont damage it by accident.
So what is the purpose of the hard cover in this case? To make it look nice on the bookcase? I just ask because I love the look of my paperbacks as they are. If it's to somehow preserve a paperback then putting it in a hardcover doesn't really do that. But there are lots of options that do from a 10 minute phase case to a 3 hour clamshell enclosure. You can make nice spines for these so they look nice on the shelf, and the book is protected in a "micro climate".
@@DASBookbinding Oh cool, I didn't know that.
Would you be able to keep them on while reading or what are they like?
Do you have a video on them?