I'm seeing many lightbulbs going off in the comments in this RW series and wanted to share my thoughts with the community. I am not a person that is easily persuaded by detail marketing claims or processes or methodologies of detailing. One needs to take a stance of “skepticism” as many initially believe what an YT influencer or manufacturers says without any rational thought and that's the narrative, they sell products on and one will/would believe moving forward and will ultimately defend it without asking any questions. The best way to approach something in car detailing is to just ask questions for yourself - make your question’s list for ANY detailing process or chemical product. Find what actually works for YOU and why? Here is a sample of questions for a RW chemical product and washing contact process that I developed for myself: - Is rinseless washing truly safer than a traditional contact wash? - Is proper rinseless washing actually quicker than a traditional wash? - Can a RW be used for all types of grime accumulation on a vehicle like a traditional contact wash? - Is modern RW methodology or process better now or when it was first developed as now some say to pre-rinse or soak with a RW before you do a RW wash or even rinse after the RW contact wash, why was the narrative changed? - Like all things does RW have limitations and what are they? - Does the 256:1 ratio standardized narrative actually work for ALL RW formulations as no two formulations are the same nor use the same cleaning agents, chemicals or formulations? - Has anybody actually tested what is the best dilution ratio to use for a given RW product? - Does the choice of different wash media work better with a given RW chemical formulation or ratios than others (best pairing)? - Why believe you should only use a sponge with every RW formulated product? - Clearcoat gets scratched from the detailing process by more “contact” and surface resistance on the vehicle clearcoat from the wash media, type of media selected, the chemicals selected, and the drying process selected (towel dry or blow dry) - which washing process has the least amount clearcoat contact on clearcoat over time traditional wash or RW’ing? - Traditional contact wash, rinse, blow dry off versus towel dry in RW process - which will scratch the vehicle less over time? - What wash media or RW multiple media process by design has the least probability to scratch clearcoat in a RW process? - Why is a twist loop towel the best drying towel for the RW process? Does the height of the twist loop pile matter as twist loop pile can be aggressive on the clearcoat surface based upon the applied pressure downwards, least surface resistance when a drying towel is a little wet and was that why drying aids were developed? - Does a surfactant type by classification leave less surfactant residue on the surface after drying in a RW process? - Does a RW containing surfactants leave behind surfactant residue after drying the surface without rinsing? - Do the chemicals chosen in the RW formulation scratch the surface because the chemical(s) chosen in the formulation? - Am I reviewing SDS sheets before purchasing a product and reaching out to the manufacturers with my questions on the product before using them on vehicles? Granted, the list can go on and on or get “crazy” but it’s illustrating a point here, that being - are you thinking like this (you should be as chemicals are dangerous) or just simply believing what someone, albeit who they are, says? That’s what I do, I test my questions and post review videos at the attempt to validate or “try to validate” the product marketing claims, process and methodology claims in the detail industry the best I can, with the resources available to me and the knowledge I possess and the contacts I have in the detail industry. I pose only illustrations of my findings to my community. I’m a sample of one, not perfect, have my own opinions and testing my “question lists” so I can choose for myself the best possible process and detailing products for my applications in car detailing. How about you?
Wow, I’m impressed! These tests are truly next level and stand out from all the other reviews! If you could perform these tests with the other common rrw products, it would be a real added value for our community. I’ve already subscribed!
I really appreciate a more rigorous tested compared to the “oh wow this is the slickest rinseless I’ve ever used” advertisements we get from most channels. Thank you for these videos and hope you do it on more products. I would love to see this method reproduced with a typical car shampoo to get a bit of a baseline comparison. If a good shampoo can keep the acrylic scratch free that would be really good to know. If it produces similar results maybe the acrylic is just a bit too soft to mimic paint?
great test. i use RRW a little stronger than recommended for polish removal and window pre cleaning, i absolutely love it but the plexi test makes me want to pay more attention from now on.
This video was made during me trying to figure out and lock in my RW test protocols, which you see on the later RW videos. I will have updated test information for this product at the end of my RW test series .
@DetailProjects But I like it is more concise. You just don't have the various dilution ratios and multiple washing media. I'm not a huge rw fan, so I like to see what actually happening to paint during washing, if it is slick, if it leaves something behind.
This is an amazing review. This is how people should do this. I hope you continue to do so. Thank you! A few follow-up questions if you have time. 1. So are you saying ONR and DIY detail leave surfactant marks and not polymer marks? Because that's a really big deal! It means we haven't been told the truth by all these companies. 2. What is the significance of the scratch test results? Does that mean a sponge is safer than a microfiber mitt? Limited to just this product? If you "Gary Dean method" the Mets, would you be OK? 3. Can you do this type of testing with some of the other rinseless washes? I would be particularly interested in the hero, DIY, and 0NR but I probably watch anything. Lol Once again thank you for an amazing video
Thank you, I plan moving forward to test all products in this fashion as it really brings out the actual product characteristics. See below answers 1. All RW have surfactant in them. Others in large quantities others in small, others use caustic surfactants similar to APC’s. So it all depends on what product you use you will get different reactions. That being said all stains we see are surfactant stains. We cannot see polymers with the bare eye. So this is a misleading understanding many people have. There is always danger of damaging your surfaces when these products dry. That’s why I question “hybrid RW” they are pretty much diluted apc’s. 2. The sponge method is not safe on all RW. Some have better lubricants than others. We did see this on the test. The safest way to wash period, is to use multiple mediums and keep your bucket solution always clean. This applies to Rinseless Wash and traditional soap wash. Encapsulation is very poor on most if not all RW in the market now days with the exception of ONR. Nobody has been able to duplicate this formula. 3. I will be conducting in the future most of my RW reviews in this fashion for consistency. Stay tuned for these tests! Thanks for watching!
So the confusing thing for me is my understanding is that ONR has the most polymers versus surfactant, but my observation has been that the stains that we see are the most pronounced with ONR versus some of the others. Do you have an explanation for that? Are you seeing similar or is this just me?. Thanks again. Looking forward to your future videos
So the following is all based upon my experience and these are my formed opinions over the years testing and using multiple products. ONR has polymers (which btw some polymers are indeed surfactants). The surfactant in ONR is not caustic, they are high quality and when it dries on the surface it doesn’t permanently damage your paint. It simply wipes off. Other RW are more surfactant driven. They use pretty much the same surfactants we see in APC and some car soaps. Their marketing claims are that it cleans better that “polymer based RW” and that’s because they use caustic surfactants to achieve this. Now everyone by now should know we need to rinse off surfactants from the surface to avoid possible chemical etching ( chemical burns). That’s why we never let car soap or APC dry on our surfaces. Why are we ok with letting a rinseless wash dry on the surface or areas we cannot dry ( between panels etc)? Nobody talks about this . They are simply not safe but everyone is sold on the idea they clean better hence they are better products? This is why everyone needs to use common sense and question the industry. And sadly most companies are not being transparent when these concerns are brought forward. Don’t be deceived by the marketing out there especially when it comes to Rinseless washes. There is too much nonsense out there and lots of misinformation. Be careful.
@@DetailProjects and your experience is ONR the only safe one? What about absolute? Have you done a video on this? I'll be happy to watch it if you point me to it. Rather than peppering you with questions. Lol
Very interesting and thorough testing of Koch chemie Rrw, I was thinking about buying this product, but I’m happy with the performance of Gyeon Ecowash and P and S Absolute .
Amazing video, have a sub... I am wondering if you plan on testing other rinseless products following this model? I really enjoyed the first half tests and was surprised to see the marring occur after wiping the tile in "used" water. I would love to see those same tests on the other rinseless products, such as Hero, Nemesis, P&S Absolute, ONR, DIY v2, Ethos, etc... Maybe that is normal to get the marring, but it sort of surprised me and has me rethinking using RRW (currently what I am using now) or switching to the microfiber method using only clean towels. Again, great video and hope to see more rinseless reviews following this same model.
Wow I wish I saw this before I bought RRW, DIY, and hero to test myself. I didn't know how I would test marring without scratching a car up. The lack of encapsulation makes the Gary Dean method the way to go as your test showed
Only ONR truly encapsulates, but like you said the BEST and SAFEST way to Rinseless Wash is to use multiple wash media and keep your bucket solution clean. All these “hybrid “ RW are nothing but diluted APC’s with PDMS added for slickness, not lubrication . There is a big difference.
There’s been plenty of other reputable detailers that have showcased this statement to not be entirely accurate. In fact, just watched another where multiple rinseless washes were tested and ONR was somewhere around the middle of the pack when it came to encapsulation. To make the statement that only ONR is capable of this while insinuating it would be the only truly safe rinse less wash may be a bit biased.
Did you notice if this product altered or masked the properties of your ceramic coating? I’ve read Koch Chemie product descriptions that this leaves a small amount of protection. Thanks.
I would challenge your conclusion about emulsification based on your test of spraying the fender liner and then letting it dry. The whole reason that rinseless wash work is that they lift the dirt and hold it in suspension (emulsification) THEN you use your preferred wash medium to wipe away the dirty solution (while it is still wet) from the surface. Letting the RRW dry simply re-deposits the dirt back onto the surface. That is not a valid test of the emulsification. When you sprayed the RRW on the paint, you could clearly see the dirt being lifted into the solution as the beads turned black in the area behind the exhaust. This clearly demonstrates that there is not a lack of emulsification and, after wiping the surface, you were left with clean paint. Even on the first side of the fender liner, the dirt was emulsified and you were able to wipe it from the liner and it left a clean surface. If there was a lack of emulsification, it would have simply smeared the dirt around on the surface. As far as the test between the sponge and the microfiber mit, it really helped to validate that the sponge is a very safe medium to use. The microfiber is designed to grab and hold onto dirt, so it wasn't suprising to see the micro-marring on the plexiglass panel when using the microfiber mit after dirt had been introduced into the solution. I've had many people comment about how a sponge is not safe and scratches... it was awesome to see you prove that this is not true, but actually quite the opposite when it comes to pairing the sponge with rinseless wash. Thank you for your hard work on this video and I really appreciate what you've shown here.
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. I appreciate your sharing your POV. We need more of this in our community! Let me clarify and explain my thought processes and why I conduct my tests in this manner in response to your questions. In terms of the fender well emulsion test with no agitation, I am looking at the “cleaning power” on its own. Example, when our vehicle is soiled we pre foam it and we are relying on the soap to loosen up and pull as much contamination from the surface. We can agree that some soaps do this better than others due to better surfactants in their formulas. So I employed this analogy to test how good the surfactants are to “loosen and lift” without the help of a wash medium. Fact - The wash medium on its own will pull 90% of the contaminants on its own, as I demonstrated on the other side of the fender well. Now, in my opinion, this test I consider it as a “stress test” and may seem irrelevant or not realistic as we do not expect to wash our cars with this much dirt with a Rinseless Wash, however this test is important because we want to see the product’s limitations and identify how good the surfactant activates when we pre spray our vehicles before the contact wash. In terms of the rear fender by the exhaust film, initially I also thought it was encapsulating the dirt, however after studying this, it appears this was emulsification and not encapsulation. If it was encapsulation the water bead would have been clear and black only in the middle. That wasn’t the case there, we clearly saw the beads turned black. That was an example of good emulsification. Now the solo cup encapsulation test is to mimic your soiled wash bucket and see the encapsulation characteristics. We don’t want murky water. We want to see most of the contaminants drop from the wash medium to the bottom of the bucket. Some will argue that the murky water is safe because the dirt is on suspension. IMO that is nonsense. We would never do this with our traditional soap bucket? That’s why we have established the 2 bucket system which is also not safe. No difference here with any Rinseless wash. There is no magic in encapsulation with these newer products. They in fact most Rinseless washes are based on SLS surfactants. You can google this FYI. The safest way to contact wash period, is to use multiple wash mediums and keep your bucket clean. Do not reintroduce a dirty sponge or mitt into the bucket. But because we are sold on the “rinseless wash method “ is safe we assume this with all RW which is not the case at all. Some have better lubricants than others, some vehicles are protected and won’t marr as much, some have harder clearcoat that others. Too many variables here to account for, so the plexiglass has been the standard testing method in labs and R&D. This test will clearly tell you what is safe and what’s not. Hope this helps answer your questions and always happy to discuss and hear perspectives.
First, you should regularly check your chemical's neat PH and write it down especially if shelved in large quantities over a period of time. Why? Chemicals degrade over time and one way is to monitor the chemicals neat PH, smell and any precipitation (crusting) of the chemical. Also, light and temperature impacts chemical degradation faster or slower. Why you measure PH when you put it into the water is called the "applied PH on the vechicle's surface." The PH may lower or rise based upon your water being distilled, city, well or resin filtration. This value determines possible surface damage and any added PPE protection needed like a respirator as chemicals, chemically interact with water and may give off chemical fuming in the air. In addition, a chemical reaction can occur with water raising its temperature and indicator of caustic additives, buffers or solvents.
@@DetailProjects Thank you for the response. I thought it would be better to present pH level based on the dilution, but that would be impossible because of the things you just mention.
Done interesting test. There are many tests that the would would be replicated with water and using a microfibre towel to wipe off is also not proving anything. What do you think is going to happen when you wipe with a towel alone! These tests were not scientific. I appreciate the effort though.
I'm seeing many lightbulbs going off in the comments in this RW series and wanted to share my thoughts with the community.
I am not a person that is easily persuaded by detail marketing claims or processes or methodologies of detailing. One needs to take a stance of “skepticism” as many initially believe what an YT influencer or manufacturers says without any rational thought and that's the narrative, they sell products on and one will/would believe moving forward and will ultimately defend it without asking any questions.
The best way to approach something in car detailing is to just ask questions for yourself - make your question’s list for ANY detailing process or chemical product. Find what actually works for YOU and why?
Here is a sample of questions for a RW chemical product and washing contact process that I developed for myself:
- Is rinseless washing truly safer than a traditional contact wash?
- Is proper rinseless washing actually quicker than a traditional wash?
- Can a RW be used for all types of grime accumulation on a vehicle like a traditional contact wash?
- Is modern RW methodology or process better now or when it was first developed as now some say to pre-rinse or soak with a RW before you do a RW wash or even rinse after the RW contact wash, why was the narrative changed?
- Like all things does RW have limitations and what are they?
- Does the 256:1 ratio standardized narrative actually work for ALL RW formulations as no two formulations are the same nor use the same cleaning agents, chemicals or formulations?
- Has anybody actually tested what is the best dilution ratio to use for a given RW product?
- Does the choice of different wash media work better with a given RW chemical formulation or ratios than others (best pairing)?
- Why believe you should only use a sponge with every RW formulated product?
- Clearcoat gets scratched from the detailing process by more “contact” and surface resistance on the vehicle clearcoat from the wash media, type of media selected, the chemicals selected, and the drying process selected (towel dry or blow dry) - which washing process has the least amount clearcoat contact on clearcoat over time traditional wash or RW’ing?
- Traditional contact wash, rinse, blow dry off versus towel dry in RW process - which will scratch the vehicle less over time?
- What wash media or RW multiple media process by design has the least probability to scratch clearcoat in a RW process?
- Why is a twist loop towel the best drying towel for the RW process? Does the height of the twist loop pile matter as twist loop pile can be aggressive on the clearcoat surface based upon the applied pressure downwards, least surface resistance when a drying towel is a little wet and was that why drying aids were developed?
- Does a surfactant type by classification leave less surfactant residue on the surface after drying in a RW process?
- Does a RW containing surfactants leave behind surfactant residue after drying the surface without rinsing?
- Do the chemicals chosen in the RW formulation scratch the surface because the chemical(s) chosen in the formulation?
- Am I reviewing SDS sheets before purchasing a product and reaching out to the manufacturers with my questions on the product before using them on vehicles?
Granted, the list can go on and on or get “crazy” but it’s illustrating a point here, that being - are you thinking like this (you should be as chemicals are dangerous) or just simply believing what someone, albeit who they are, says?
That’s what I do, I test my questions and post review videos at the attempt to validate or “try to validate” the product marketing claims, process and methodology claims in the detail industry the best I can, with the resources available to me and the knowledge I possess and the contacts I have in the detail industry.
I pose only illustrations of my findings to my community. I’m a sample of one, not perfect, have my own opinions and testing my “question lists” so I can choose for myself the best possible process and detailing products for my applications in car detailing.
How about you?
🤘🏼🔥🤘🏼
The test we didn’t know we needed. Great work
Many thanks Alex!
Wow, I’m impressed! These tests are truly next level and stand out from all the other reviews! If you could perform these tests with the other common rrw products, it would be a real added value for our community. I’ve already subscribed!
Many thanks for your support!
I really appreciate a more rigorous tested compared to the “oh wow this is the slickest rinseless I’ve ever used” advertisements we get from most channels. Thank you for these videos and hope you do it on more products.
I would love to see this method reproduced with a typical car shampoo to get a bit of a baseline comparison.
If a good shampoo can keep the acrylic scratch free that would be really good to know. If it produces similar results maybe the acrylic is just a bit too soft to mimic paint?
i would love to see that too.
The plexiglass marring test is genius! I wish you could test other brands of rinseless just like this
In the works!
Man you are the best on you tube
great test. i use RRW a little stronger than recommended for polish removal and window pre cleaning, i absolutely love it but the plexi test makes me want to pay more attention from now on.
Watching this review I thought it was average, but with the next reviews of the others (ecowash, absolute, DIY, Hero), I appreciate it more.
This video was made during me trying to figure out and lock in my RW test protocols, which you see on the later RW videos. I will have updated test information for this product at the end of my RW test series .
@DetailProjects But I like it is more concise. You just don't have the various dilution ratios and multiple washing media.
I'm not a huge rw fan, so I like to see what actually happening to paint during washing, if it is slick, if it leaves something behind.
Loving this channel ❤️
great video! loved the detailed review!!!
Great video and review!!! Love the test panel!!
Love this video would you please do more the rinseless washing products
Yes definitely will !
wow, your test is the next level👍 never seen anything like this before
Impressive test! Enjoyed the video
This is an amazing review. This is how people should do this. I hope you continue to do so. Thank you!
A few follow-up questions if you have time.
1. So are you saying ONR and DIY detail leave surfactant marks and not polymer marks? Because that's a really big deal! It means we haven't been told the truth by all these companies.
2. What is the significance of the scratch test results? Does that mean a sponge is safer than a microfiber mitt? Limited to just this product? If you "Gary Dean method" the Mets, would you be OK?
3. Can you do this type of testing with some of the other rinseless washes? I would be particularly interested in the hero, DIY, and 0NR but I probably watch anything. Lol
Once again thank you for an amazing video
Thank you, I plan moving forward to test all products in this fashion as it really brings out the actual product characteristics. See below answers
1. All RW have surfactant in them. Others in large quantities others in small, others use caustic surfactants similar to APC’s. So it all depends on what product you use you will get different reactions. That being said all stains we see are surfactant stains. We cannot see polymers with the bare eye. So this is a misleading understanding many people have. There is always danger of damaging your surfaces when these products dry. That’s why I question “hybrid RW” they are pretty much diluted apc’s.
2. The sponge method is not safe on all RW. Some have better lubricants than others. We did see this on the test. The safest way to wash period, is to use multiple mediums and keep your bucket solution always clean. This applies to Rinseless Wash and traditional soap wash. Encapsulation is very poor on most if not all RW in the market now days with the exception of ONR. Nobody has been able to duplicate this formula.
3. I will be conducting in the future most of my RW reviews in this fashion for consistency. Stay tuned for these tests!
Thanks for watching!
So the confusing thing for me is my understanding is that ONR has the most polymers versus surfactant, but my observation has been that the stains that we see are the most pronounced with ONR versus some of the others. Do you have an explanation for that? Are you seeing similar or is this just me?.
Thanks again. Looking forward to your future videos
So the following is all based upon my experience and these are my formed opinions over the years testing and using multiple products.
ONR has polymers (which btw some polymers are indeed surfactants). The surfactant in ONR is not caustic, they are high quality and when it dries on the surface it doesn’t permanently damage your paint. It simply wipes off. Other RW are more surfactant driven. They use pretty much the same surfactants we see in APC and some car soaps. Their marketing claims are that it cleans better that “polymer based RW” and that’s because they use caustic surfactants to achieve this.
Now everyone by now should know we need to rinse off surfactants from the surface to avoid possible chemical etching ( chemical burns). That’s why we never let car soap or APC dry on our surfaces. Why are we ok with letting a rinseless wash dry on the surface or areas we cannot dry ( between panels etc)? Nobody talks about this . They are simply not safe but everyone is sold on the idea they clean better hence they are better products? This is why everyone needs to use common sense and question the industry. And sadly most companies are not being transparent when these concerns are brought forward.
Don’t be deceived by the marketing out there especially when it comes to Rinseless washes. There is too much nonsense out there and lots of misinformation. Be careful.
@@DetailProjects holy crap, dude. you were going to shake up the industry. Thank you for speaking the truth. I had no idea!
@@DetailProjects and your experience is ONR the only safe one? What about absolute? Have you done a video on this? I'll be happy to watch it if you point me to it. Rather than peppering you with questions. Lol
Very interesting and thorough testing of Koch chemie Rrw, I was thinking about buying this product, but I’m happy with the performance of Gyeon Ecowash and P and S Absolute .
Very thorough testing.
Thanks Bruce!
Amazing video, have a sub... I am wondering if you plan on testing other rinseless products following this model? I really enjoyed the first half tests and was surprised to see the marring occur after wiping the tile in "used" water. I would love to see those same tests on the other rinseless products, such as Hero, Nemesis, P&S Absolute, ONR, DIY v2, Ethos, etc...
Maybe that is normal to get the marring, but it sort of surprised me and has me rethinking using RRW (currently what I am using now) or switching to the microfiber method using only clean towels.
Again, great video and hope to see more rinseless reviews following this same model.
Appreciate your support thanks!
Man I know I need to get one of those sponges for rinseless
Washes for sure
Really great video.
Wow I wish I saw this before I bought RRW, DIY, and hero to test myself. I didn't know how I would test marring without scratching a car up. The lack of encapsulation makes the Gary Dean method the way to go as your test showed
Only ONR truly encapsulates, but like you said the BEST and SAFEST way to Rinseless Wash is to use multiple wash media and keep your bucket solution clean. All these “hybrid “ RW are nothing but diluted APC’s with PDMS added for slickness, not lubrication . There is a big difference.
There’s been plenty of other reputable detailers that have showcased this statement to not be entirely accurate. In fact, just watched another where multiple rinseless washes were tested and ONR was somewhere around the middle of the pack when it came to encapsulation. To make the statement that only ONR is capable of this while insinuating it would be the only truly safe rinse less wash may be a bit biased.
Can you do different dilutions like other rinse-less washes? 1:128 or 1:64?
Koch-Chemie makes a great waterless wash. It's called Wf (Wash & Finish) It sells by the 5 liter jug.
Did you notice if this product altered or masked the properties of your ceramic coating? I’ve read Koch Chemie product descriptions that this leaves a small amount of protection. Thanks.
I am still wondering if used on a dirty car would there be micro scratches or not ?
Have you tried Idrosave?
I would challenge your conclusion about emulsification based on your test of spraying the fender liner and then letting it dry. The whole reason that rinseless wash work is that they lift the dirt and hold it in suspension (emulsification) THEN you use your preferred wash medium to wipe away the dirty solution (while it is still wet) from the surface. Letting the RRW dry simply re-deposits the dirt back onto the surface. That is not a valid test of the emulsification.
When you sprayed the RRW on the paint, you could clearly see the dirt being lifted into the solution as the beads turned black in the area behind the exhaust. This clearly demonstrates that there is not a lack of emulsification and, after wiping the surface, you were left with clean paint. Even on the first side of the fender liner, the dirt was emulsified and you were able to wipe it from the liner and it left a clean surface. If there was a lack of emulsification, it would have simply smeared the dirt around on the surface.
As far as the test between the sponge and the microfiber mit, it really helped to validate that the sponge is a very safe medium to use. The microfiber is designed to grab and hold onto dirt, so it wasn't suprising to see the micro-marring on the plexiglass panel when using the microfiber mit after dirt had been introduced into the solution. I've had many people comment about how a sponge is not safe and scratches... it was awesome to see you prove that this is not true, but actually quite the opposite when it comes to pairing the sponge with rinseless wash.
Thank you for your hard work on this video and I really appreciate what you've shown here.
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. I appreciate your sharing your POV. We need more of this in our community!
Let me clarify and explain my thought processes and why I conduct my tests in this manner in response to your questions.
In terms of the fender well emulsion test with no agitation, I am looking at the “cleaning power” on its own. Example, when our vehicle is soiled we pre foam it and we are relying on the soap to loosen up and pull as much contamination from the surface. We can agree that some soaps do this better than others due to better surfactants in their formulas.
So I employed this analogy to test how good the surfactants are to “loosen and lift” without the help of a wash medium. Fact - The wash medium on its own will pull 90% of the contaminants on its own, as I demonstrated on the other side of the fender well.
Now, in my opinion, this test I consider it as a “stress test” and may seem irrelevant or not realistic as we do not expect to wash our cars with this much dirt with a Rinseless Wash, however this test is important because we want to see the product’s limitations and identify how good the surfactant activates when we pre spray our vehicles before the contact wash.
In terms of the rear fender by the exhaust film, initially I also thought it was encapsulating the dirt, however after studying this, it appears this was emulsification and not encapsulation. If it was encapsulation the water bead would have been clear and black only in the middle. That wasn’t the case there, we clearly saw the beads turned black. That was an example of good emulsification.
Now the solo cup encapsulation test is to mimic your soiled wash bucket and see the encapsulation characteristics. We don’t want murky water. We want to see most of the contaminants drop from the wash medium to the bottom of the bucket. Some will argue that the murky water is safe because the dirt is on suspension. IMO that is nonsense.
We would never do this with our traditional soap bucket? That’s why we have established the 2 bucket system which is also not safe.
No difference here with any Rinseless wash. There is no magic in encapsulation with these newer products. They in fact most Rinseless washes are based on SLS surfactants. You can google this FYI.
The safest way to contact wash period, is to use multiple wash mediums and keep your bucket clean. Do not reintroduce a dirty sponge or mitt into the bucket.
But because we are sold on the “rinseless wash method “ is safe we assume this with all RW which is not the case at all. Some have better lubricants than others, some vehicles are protected and won’t marr as much, some have harder clearcoat that others. Too many variables here to account for, so the plexiglass has been the standard testing method in labs and R&D. This test will clearly tell you what is safe and what’s not.
Hope this helps answer your questions and always happy to discuss and hear perspectives.
Which detail light is that?
It’s the gyeon prism plus. It’s pretty much a Scangrip
You need to get affiliated with a USA company do we can buy products you recommend
What's the point of stating the pH level of the raw chemical when diluted it jumps twice as much?
First, you should regularly check your chemical's neat PH and write it down especially if shelved in large quantities over a period of time. Why? Chemicals degrade over time and one way is to monitor the chemicals neat PH, smell and any precipitation (crusting) of the chemical. Also, light and temperature impacts chemical degradation faster or slower.
Why you measure PH when you put it into the water is called the "applied PH on the vechicle's surface." The PH may lower or rise based upon your water being distilled, city, well or resin filtration.
This value determines possible surface damage and any added PPE protection needed like a respirator as chemicals, chemically interact with water and may give off chemical fuming in the air. In addition, a chemical reaction can occur with water raising its temperature and indicator of caustic additives, buffers or solvents.
@@DetailProjects Thank you for the response. I thought it would be better to present pH level based on the dilution, but that would be impossible because of the things you just mention.
Done interesting test. There are many tests that the would would be replicated with water and using a microfibre towel to wipe off is also not proving anything. What do you think is going to happen when you wipe with a towel alone! These tests were not scientific. I appreciate the effort though.