gee for 40 years i have been using the wrong oil....10w 30 mobli 1 must be bad for my mowers ,,,nope they still run fine an my two tro built tillers get a work out...an one is a 76 model the other an 83..,,,but i change the oil...
I have many Small engine machines, SCAG Turf Tiger mower with 31 hp Briggs, two Kawasaki Mule 610 XC's w/ 400 cc kawies, Pressure washers, log Splitters, 2 Honda Generators...They all get 10~30 or 15~40 as per the manufacturer's recommendation. Only difference is if the manual say every 50 or every 100 hrs....They get Oil and Filter changed at 20 hrs. I buy what ever brand of oil is on the shelf and the filters is always OEM and never had a catastrophic breakdown. I did send out 4 different oils for analysis years ago and Mobil #1 had the best lube properties while Drydene was the worst. I'm not sure if those oil companies even exist any longer and I'm not researching it. I'm just saying change your oil more often than the recommendation. It is cheap insurance.
this video is loaded with incorrect information. The only manufacturer listed in this video that actually manufacturers their own oil is Pennzoil. The rest have their oil manufactured by a third party and they just slap their label on it. That's not necessarily A Bad Thing usually if you look at the very corner of the label either front or back sometimes on the bottom of the bottle you can see the name of the actual oil manufacturer. Warren distributions manufacturers oil for a lot of different brands and they're usually pretty good at blending the oil for the required specifications for each manufacturer to meet their recommendations. But really there's no need to buy specific brand oil for a lawn mower if you're planning to stick with a multi-grade oil automotive oil meets or exceeds the same specifications as branded lawn mower oil. But no matter what oil it is it still needs to be changed regularly especially in a lawnmower where it typically runs hotter due to less Cooling.
I think this is more for advertising purposes. As long as the formulation and viscosity are correct, your engine won’t know the difference between one brand of oil and the other. I usually use Super Tech SAE HD-30 from Walmart in my mower and have for years with no problems. I’ve used the Briggs and Stratton oil before, but I haven’t noticed any difference in how it runs. Save the money.
I only use 4 cycle small engine oil in my outdoor equipment. I am sure automobile oil would work fine, but I want oil that is made to perform in air cooled 4 cycle engines. Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled engines. Been using Stens 4 cycle conventional 10w30 for years with no issues. I am not sure what oil company develops the oil for Stens, all I know is, it performs like it is suppose too for less money. If my machines were running all day like lawn crews do, I would opt for a synthetic blend or full synthetic 4 cycle small engine oil. One thing I don't slack on, is keeping the oil and filters changed on a regular basis in every engine I own, be it in my vehicles or outdoor equipment. If you look into the formula for 4 cycle small engine oil verses automobile engine oil, you will see the difference, be it conventional or synthetic oil.
The only one that manufactures their own oil is Pennzoil .... the rest on the list contract with other oil companies to put their oil in those pretty bottles !!
THIS VIDEO IS ABSOLUTE BULL-SHlT.... I have a Briggs & Stratton 4 HP from 2009, I use it often, heavy use, been through several blades,,, it still starts right up, still has great compression and good power. I purchased it new from Home Depot, and the first thing I did was to toss the shitty B&S 30w oil it came with, into the recycle bin.... THE BEST OIL TO RUN FOR A LONG LIFE WITHOUT CARBON BUILD UP IS 100% SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL. I use the Quicksilver Full Synthetic 10W-30 Motorcycle Oil quart, available on Amazon. It just makes sense, a small, high revving 4-stroke engine needs pure synthetic oil made from natural gas, Just like a motor cycle engine..... Not the crude oil sludge that Briggs & Stratton wants you to use, it builds up carbon deposits in the head and kills the engine compression over time.
I like using Amsoil commercial grade 10W30 for small engines. Engines never use a drop of oil and stay nice and clean!
Briggs & Stratton 30w is my mowers drug of choice
Whoever made this video knows nothing of oil
gee for 40 years i have been using the wrong oil....10w 30 mobli 1 must be bad for my mowers ,,,nope they still run fine an my two tro built tillers get a work out...an one is a 76 model the other an 83..,,,but i change the oil...
So you can use any oil for a mower as long as it's 10w 30
I have many Small engine machines, SCAG Turf Tiger mower with 31 hp Briggs, two Kawasaki Mule 610 XC's w/ 400 cc kawies, Pressure washers, log Splitters, 2 Honda Generators...They all get 10~30 or 15~40 as per the manufacturer's recommendation. Only difference is if the manual say every 50 or every 100 hrs....They get Oil and Filter changed at 20 hrs. I buy what ever brand of oil is on the shelf and the filters is always OEM and never had a catastrophic breakdown. I did send out 4 different oils for analysis years ago and Mobil #1 had the best lube properties while Drydene was the worst. I'm not sure if those oil companies even exist any longer and I'm not researching it. I'm just saying change your oil more often than the recommendation. It is cheap insurance.
this video is loaded with incorrect information. The only manufacturer listed in this video that actually manufacturers their own oil is Pennzoil. The rest have their oil manufactured by a third party and they just slap their label on it. That's not necessarily A Bad Thing usually if you look at the very corner of the label either front or back sometimes on the bottom of the bottle you can see the name of the actual oil manufacturer. Warren distributions manufacturers oil for a lot of different brands and they're usually pretty good at blending the oil for the required specifications for each manufacturer to meet their recommendations. But really there's no need to buy specific brand oil for a lawn mower if you're planning to stick with a multi-grade oil automotive oil meets or exceeds the same specifications as branded lawn mower oil. But no matter what oil it is it still needs to be changed regularly especially in a lawnmower where it typically runs hotter due to less Cooling.
I think this is more for advertising purposes. As long as the formulation and viscosity are correct, your engine won’t know the difference between one brand of oil and the other. I usually use Super Tech SAE HD-30 from Walmart in my mower and have for years with no problems. I’ve used the Briggs and Stratton oil before, but I haven’t noticed any difference in how it runs. Save the money.
Agree 100 percent!!!
Let's just say any 30 goes good for a mower
I only use 4 cycle small engine oil in my outdoor equipment. I am sure automobile oil would work fine, but I want oil that is made to perform in air cooled 4 cycle engines. Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled engines. Been using Stens 4 cycle conventional 10w30 for years with no issues. I am not sure what oil company develops the oil for Stens, all I know is, it performs like it is suppose too for less money. If my machines were running all day like lawn crews do, I would opt for a synthetic blend or full synthetic 4 cycle small engine oil. One thing I don't slack on, is keeping the oil and filters changed on a regular basis in every engine I own, be it in my vehicles or outdoor equipment. If you look into the formula for 4 cycle small engine oil verses automobile engine oil, you will see the difference, be it conventional or synthetic oil.
The only one that manufactures their own oil is Pennzoil .... the rest on the list contract with other oil companies to put their oil in those pretty bottles !!
What about Kohler motor oil 10 W 30
Who wrote this. Say?
@1:17who takes measurements like that not even on 0 to start the measurements
Labels read by computer
HONDA IT IS .
THIS VIDEO IS ABSOLUTE BULL-SHlT....
I have a Briggs & Stratton 4 HP from 2009, I use it often, heavy use, been through several blades,,, it still starts right up, still has great compression and good power.
I purchased it new from Home Depot, and the first thing I did was to toss the shitty B&S 30w oil it came with, into the recycle bin....
THE BEST OIL TO RUN FOR A LONG LIFE WITHOUT CARBON BUILD UP IS 100% SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL.
I use the Quicksilver Full Synthetic 10W-30 Motorcycle Oil quart, available on Amazon.
It just makes sense, a small, high revving 4-stroke engine needs pure synthetic oil made from natural gas,
Just like a motor cycle engine.....
Not the crude oil sludge that Briggs & Stratton wants you to use, it builds up carbon deposits in the head and kills the engine compression over time.