If your zero clearance insert has seen better days, you can tape the top of the insert and pour epoxy onto the underside of the insert. PU glue would also work. Recut the slot and it's as good as new.
Excellent video. Concise step-by-step video on how to make a zero clearance table saw insert. Of course it helps to have all the proper tools and equipment to make the job a little easier. Rockler Woodworking is my #1 source for woodworking projects because of their innovations.
I have an older delta contractor saw 36-441 and the blade won’t lower down enough to fit plate over it…. Omg and u come through w the dato black hack- awesome ty assume a 71/4 circler saw blade may work for those w out dato?
How do you account for variations in depth of the tabs? My existing plate has adjustment screws which doesn't offer much sturdiness since it's just a screw head making contact.
Any shape can be template-routed. Whether the throatplate is oval-shaped or more rectangular makes no difference to the router bit. However, if your throatplate's shape is mostly straight, parallel lines with square corners, you might be able to duplicate your throatplate without even needing to template-rout it; ripping, crosscutting and filing/sanding the corners round might do the trick, too. Use whatever methods will produce an accurate copy in the most efficient way for you.
Brett Barnts you have to make different “zero clearance” insert plates for every different angle. The factory insert plate has a wide opening to accommodate various angles.
Looks good but I have a Porter Cable table saw with a 1/8" steel throat plate. I've not tried to make one because I am not sure any non metallic material can be strong enough if only 1/8" thick. Any ideas?
Izzy Swan has a video where he solves this problem by melting and flattening some schedule 40 PVC pipe. He uses that to make the top of the plate, then screws it to some plywood for the "body" of the plate. The result is kind of a "T" shaped plate, where the PVC overhangs and reaches the perimeter of the hole, while the plywood provides the strength. ruclips.net/video/KeSJQQYu478/видео.html
FYI, the teeth on a dado blade are wider (~0.148") than a regular blade (~0.123"). This allows them to overlap when stacked. The disc to which the teeth are attached are also thinner on a regular blade. So using a dado blade completely wipes out any "zero clearance" benefits. A better way is to set the insert on shims that sit on the tabs in the throat that are used to level the plate. These shims must be raise the insert high enough to allow the blade to turn when the insert sits on the shims. Now hold that down with cauls and raise the blade.
Wilhelm, the benefit is not eliminated if you are making a plate for full- or half-height cuts, as the larger blade will cut a (narrower) slot forward and backwards from the initial hole. Stumpy Nubs has a video in which he uses a cross-cut jig and 2-sided tape to do what you suggest, raising the specific blade the plate is being made for.
We have not used the Fast Cap Zero Clearance Tape. It is specified to be used on miter saws. The thickness could be a problem for sliding work pieces across a table saw. It might work on a table saw, but the insert would have to be modified to allow for the thickness of the tape so that it ends up flush with the table saw surface.
Exactly what I was looking for. The best explanation/demo I've found so far on how to make a Zero Clearance plate. Thanks!!!!
The rabbeting bit idea to level a too-thick plate is ingenious. Thank you.
If your zero clearance insert has seen better days, you can tape the top of the insert and pour epoxy onto the underside of the insert. PU glue would also work. Recut the slot and it's as good as new.
Excellent video. Concise step-by-step video on how to make a zero clearance table saw insert. Of course it helps to have all the proper tools and equipment to make the job a little easier. Rockler Woodworking is my #1 source for woodworking projects because of their innovations.
awesome instructions. thanks
Thank you!!
Great video!
Excellent!!!!!!!!!!
I have an older delta contractor saw 36-441 and the blade won’t lower down enough to fit plate over it…. Omg and u come through w the dato black hack- awesome ty assume a 71/4 circler saw blade may work for those w out dato?
How do you account for variations in depth of the tabs? My existing plate has adjustment screws which doesn't offer much sturdiness since it's just a screw head making contact.
You could go slightly thinner and then glue in shims over the tab areas until it is flush on top.
What if you have a rectangular-shaped (semi-rounded edge) throat plate? Can you still use this technique to make one?
Any shape can be template-routed. Whether the throatplate is oval-shaped or more rectangular makes no difference to the router bit. However, if your throatplate's shape is mostly straight, parallel lines with square corners, you might be able to duplicate your throatplate without even needing to template-rout it; ripping, crosscutting and filing/sanding the corners round might do the trick, too. Use whatever methods will produce an accurate copy in the most efficient way for you.
Love to know where I can order one of those shinny riving knifes?
Check with the manufacturer of your table saw for a riving knife option.
Have a great day,
will this work on a saw stop
Yes.
How does that slot perform when you angle your blade? I experience binding and am not sure how to remedy that.
Brett Barnts you have to make different “zero clearance” insert plates for every different angle. The factory insert plate has a wide opening to accommodate various angles.
Aren't you concerned about the plate's strength after cutting the allowance for the knife? Aside from this, I like the rabbet bit idea.
Not if you don't cut all the way through the plate, just extend the cut for clearance.
Is there any benefit to applying a poly finish to the plate?
We can not think of any advantage to putting a poly finish on the plate, but there shouldn't be any harm in doing so either.
@@rockler what about hard maple and tung oil? Would that make the zci plate hard while the “looks” of maple looks really good?
Maybe paste wax to help things slide more easily.
Looks good but I have a Porter Cable table saw with a 1/8" steel throat plate. I've not tried to make one because I am not sure any non metallic material can be strong enough if only 1/8" thick. Any ideas?
Some saws have a configuration that makes creating an aftermarket throat plate impractical. It sounds like your saw might have such a configuration.
Izzy Swan has a video where he solves this problem by melting and flattening some schedule 40 PVC pipe. He uses that to make the top of the plate, then screws it to some plywood for the "body" of the plate. The result is kind of a "T" shaped plate, where the PVC overhangs and reaches the perimeter of the hole, while the plywood provides the strength. ruclips.net/video/KeSJQQYu478/видео.html
I just used 1/8" plexiglass for both my Craftsman 103 and 113 TS's.
Could use 1/4 or 3/8 and route it but I had some 1/8 laying around.
lets see how you do this for a ridgid r4512 table saw
FYI, the teeth on a dado blade are wider (~0.148") than a regular blade (~0.123"). This allows them to overlap when stacked. The disc to which the teeth are attached are also thinner on a regular blade. So using a dado blade completely wipes out any "zero clearance" benefits. A better way is to set the insert on shims that sit on the tabs in the throat that are used to level the plate. These shims must be raise the insert high enough to allow the blade to turn when the insert sits on the shims. Now hold that down with cauls and raise the blade.
Wilhelm, the benefit is not eliminated if you are making a plate for full- or half-height cuts, as the larger blade will cut a (narrower) slot forward and backwards from the initial hole. Stumpy Nubs has a video in which he uses a cross-cut jig and 2-sided tape to do what you suggest, raising the specific blade the plate is being made for.
You can alsouse a 7.25'' circular saw blade.
@@herbsu4330 → Nope. Doesn't have the same width.
has anyone tried the FastCap zero tolerance tape ? im afraid it might be too thick
We have not used the Fast Cap Zero Clearance Tape. It is specified to be used on miter saws. The thickness could be a problem for sliding work pieces across a table saw. It might work on a table saw, but the insert would have to be modified to allow for the thickness of the tape so that it ends up flush with the table saw surface.
You forgot this won't work when you want to turn your table saw at a 45-degree. Your width will be more over the 45-degree angle.
How about melamine?
Yes, that would work as well.
@@rockler Excellent. I've got lots of that laying around.