I like that tweeter - dual concentric ring tweeters have a good dispersion, as they act closer to a point source. Well - a ring source which acoustically is like a point source. And I have not seen a series crossover before - definitely worth looking into; thank you Douglas!
@Douglas Blake That makes sense, about not shunting to ground - using all the power makes the speaker more sensitive. I will definitely look into it - 2nd order is most often needed, in my limited experience. First order requires (very?) well behaved drivers. As for better blending - that is also a great thing. It is hard to know which drivers are "well behaved" at the crossover region. Some tweeters are able to have minimal cancellation/ripples while some need a 3rd or 4th order to get things to smooth out.
Hi Bernardo, I really liked your video, thank you very much for sharing your projects, could you share the information on the crossovers and dimensions of the speaker boxes, I'm just getting started on this. Greetings
Hey Pedro! Thanks. Just posted all the info. The crossovers schemes are at the end of the video. You can get the components at parts express. Remember that the tweeter phase is inverted. Let me know if you have any questions.
Just discovered your channel. Build whatever, I am going to watch it. Every project is a little different and give me inspiration and ideas :) I do like DIY subwoofers though, maybe you'll build one in the future
Hey I really enjoy your series, I’m going to build the same ones with serious crossover, all part arrived today, but I’m confused about how much power does they need, on schematic with crossover is 10W Amp power, to be honest I really don’t know what that means because my knowledge is poor about crossover so I looking forward for your reply.
Hey Carlos. I usually make my own measurements and get the frd and zma. I’m out of town now but I can see if I have it when I’m back. Can you check back in a few days
As always, good vid! What was the spray-on coat on the MDF under the white primer top coat, please? And did you use the router to even up the joint between the sides and the top? I try to learn by watching your work. Thanks!
Sanding Sealer. I saw the answer in another vid comments. Groovy, thnx. Btw, I used some of what you did here as inspiration for a project I am doing with my daughter. Today we worked on her speakers and it was the best day ever!
Thanks for watching!! It’s sandable sealer on the MDF! To keep it sealed. I didn’t use the router on the edges, I cut the trims to size before adding them. But you can use the router.
Would u consider building a powerful BoomBox with Dayton KAB5 4x100 board. I am talking this should rock the party of 30 open garden with bass not audiophile
tengo un amplificador pioneer 7.2 con otras bocinas de 8ohm quisiera fabricar unas bocinas frontales culales de las que has fabricado me recomiendas es para un cine en casa
Love this build Bernardo! Curious How many watts can this speaker take? I'm attempting to build the cabinets now for this and modeling it on WinISD (I've replicated your crossover and box design) and i get some cone excursion just starting at 14W and up. I'm wondering if I modeled something wrong, or if this is by design - 14W would be pretty darn loud already for these little guys I think (~96db max). Thank and keep up the great videos!!
Hello Toby. Thanks for watching! It's hard to find the "sweet spot". You might have to sacrifice low frequency for higher SPL. I've worked on it a little bit here and A 5 liter box tuned to 60Hz will give you better SPL. F3 is around 52 Hz and the port is a rectangular shape, 1 cm x 15 cm by 21 cm deep. SPL peaks at 100db with 30 watts. This design will give you better cone control and port air velocity. If you wanna keep the same volume inside (same design) I suggest tuning it to 45Hz for an F3 of 40Hz. Port is 0.7 cm x 17.4 cm and 20 cm deep. This one will give you more SPL as well and lower bass. If you have win ISD, just play with it and let me know if you have any questions.
@@sonnoradesign Awesome thank you for the tips! By coincidence i started playing around with a smaller box and tuning as well and am in the same ballpark as your 5L box @60hz! As a new a builder and a little bit OCD about trying to make it the "best i can make it", it's always a big challenge sacrificing/balancing any low end extension for the overall good of the box! :D
Did you notice any issues with phase on the parallel crossover? I'm used to seeing the crossover point about 6db down from the combined curve. Loved the video and your process.
@@sonnoradesign thanks for the answer, how is the low end for you on this build ? I'm planning to build a bluetooth speaker with this one, but maybe i should wait for your next videos 🙂
@@julienvankemmel9182 That’s a good Bluetooth candidate. There are some plate amplifiers that you can add to one of the speakers and it’s done. I’ll most probably make a smaller version. Not sure yet.
I made a similar build but using two 4" passive radiators on the sides I managed to get 65hz F3 in a 3.5L box. I used the DSA115 mid woofer paierd with a Dayton Audio tweeter I don't remember 😂 anyway they are freakishly small for how big they sound🔊
Hello I really like your channel, and your style… your speaker look beautiful. Which one in sound quality do you prefer ? the cube or the slim one ? (Mark audio ?) Salutation from France 🇫🇷
Hey There. Thanks for watching! They sound different. I’d say the mark audio drivers are really detailed, mids and highs are super clear. I like them a lot. The cube seems to handle more power and be more punchy, highs are more evident. Depends a lot on your taste which one you are gonna like the most.
@@sonnoradesign thank you for responding :) "today is the best day ever" ;-) of course I like the sound to be punch in the base and clear in the mids/high lol. I want it all 😆
Hi Sonnora, i noticed that the polarity of the speaker in the schem is different, i just wondering, If both drivers are bridged to plus is it a sirias crossover?
Great video! Really liked that you showed us the whole buildprocess and also posted the plans for the build. I'm planning to build a 2.1-system and use this box design for the TCP115 (and use the TCP115 as woofer). Do you have any tips for a passive high pass filter for the TCP115? The woofer will be powered on a seperate channel with a seperate volume knob. /Andreas
Hey Andreas. Thanks for watching. If they are gonna be in different channels and the power amp does not have an active crossover, you can make the passive filters for each driver. Have you used Xsim? You can make the filters on Xsim for your application.
Hi! Okey. I have tested Xsim a little bit (I have watched a few tutorials). But apparently I need to take some measurements and I’m not use which I’m supposed to use; free air (the files from Dayton Audio) or the enclosure. Unfortunately I don’t have a mic or the software that is required to get the files from the enclosure.
@@andreassundstrom7257 what would be the low pass filter cutting frequency? If you use a 0.6 mH coil with a 15 uF you’d have your cut off frequency at around 2500Hz. With the frd and zma provided by Parts Express.
Do not want to buy a seperate amplifer to drive these so wanted to make them powered speakers with if possible only one speaker container the amp board and driving the other.
@@sonnoradesign thanks, I was also thinking of getting a seperate powered amplifier to power this with something like aiyima A07 Max instead of a plate
I would love to see "this build" next, thank you for a great video
That’s right!! Let’s do it soon.
You sir are a genuine maniac, and I love you.
Haha! Thanks for watching James!!
Yes, I would like to see the larger speaker build next.
Right!!!
I give you all the Tums up!!!
I like that tweeter - dual concentric ring tweeters have a good dispersion, as they act closer to a point source. Well - a ring source which acoustically is like a point source. And I have not seen a series crossover before - definitely worth looking into; thank you Douglas!
@Douglas Blake That makes sense, about not shunting to ground - using all the power makes the speaker more sensitive. I will definitely look into it - 2nd order is most often needed, in my limited experience. First order requires (very?) well behaved drivers.
As for better blending - that is also a great thing.
It is hard to know which drivers are "well behaved" at the crossover region. Some tweeters are able to have minimal cancellation/ripples while some need a 3rd or 4th order to get things to smooth out.
Great info! Thanks
It sounds really good. I’m enjoying them with the series crossover for a while now.
Best year ..... ever , your slaying it bring on the next build man .
Thanks Nicholas!!
I enjoy and learn watching your video. More videos to come! Mabuhay!
Thanks for watching Aquila!
Come for the build, stay for the awesome music!
Ahaa! Andrew Jikh. I might have misspelled. Thanks my friend.
Love the vids! Great info for speaker design noobs. Soon you will have 100k subs. Good sense of humor. Keep up the great work, much appreciated!
Thanks for watching Brannon! Hope you prophecy come true! Ha
Excellent job!
Might build a pair for the girlfriend.
She likes small things... Luckily!
Haha! Right! Those work pretty well for the size.
Great build! Keep up mister.
Thanks Ethan!!
I learned a lot from your videos. Thank you and keep them coming.
Thanks Piotr. Glad to hear that.
Hi Bernardo, I really liked your video, thank you very much for sharing your projects, could you share the information on the crossovers and dimensions of the speaker boxes, I'm just getting started on this. Greetings
Hey Pedro! Thanks. Just posted all the info. The crossovers schemes are at the end of the video. You can get the components at parts express. Remember that the tweeter phase is inverted. Let me know if you have any questions.
Just discovered your channel. Build whatever, I am going to watch it. Every project is a little different and give me inspiration and ideas :) I do like DIY subwoofers though, maybe you'll build one in the future
Thanks for watching! I appreciate its I’m gonna make subs at some point yes.
Another great video 👍👍
Thanks for watching Derek!
Thank you for another great video!! I’ve been wondering when you would post again!
I want to see more on that full range tower
Sounds great!
Good Job friend I like
Wow amazing. Can I buy the mini’s from you or hire you to build the Exact pair
Hello. Can you please give me the circuit diagram of the crossover that you feel is most suitable? Thank you very much
Hey There. The diagram is in the video. I’m using a series crossover for that one.
Hey I really enjoy your series, I’m going to build the same ones with serious crossover, all part arrived today, but I’m confused about how much power does they need, on schematic with crossover is 10W Amp power, to be honest I really don’t know what that means because my knowledge is poor about crossover so I looking forward for your reply.
Where do I get reliable FRD & ZMA for the tweeter? They are not on PE specs. Thanks
Hey Carlos. I usually make my own measurements and get the frd and zma. I’m out of town now but I can see if I have it when I’m back. Can you check back in a few days
Me too, because of the normalised cap and inductor values, I would like to compare. Thank you and good job. Bravo
As always, good vid! What was the spray-on coat on the MDF under the white primer top coat, please? And did you use the router to even up the joint between the sides and the top? I try to learn by watching your work. Thanks!
Sanding Sealer. I saw the answer in another vid comments. Groovy, thnx. Btw, I used some of what you did here as inspiration for a project I am doing with my daughter. Today we worked on her speakers and it was the best day ever!
Thanks for watching!! It’s sandable sealer on the MDF! To keep it sealed. I didn’t use the router on the edges, I cut the trims to size before adding them. But you can use the router.
I absolutely love your videos! I will definetly make these speakers soon.
That’s great. Enjoy! Thanks for watching
i like the amplifr wood cabnet
Me too! It looks good man!
🙋👍❤️ thanks for the subtitles
Sure!! Thanks for watching.
Would u consider building a powerful BoomBox with Dayton KAB5 4x100 board. I am talking this should rock the party of 30 open garden with bass not audiophile
I’m gonna start a new wireless speaker design soon. Not with the Kab though.
tengo un amplificador pioneer 7.2 con otras bocinas de 8ohm quisiera fabricar unas bocinas frontales culales de las que has fabricado me recomiendas es para un cine en casa
Hm, creo que el CHR o MLTL-6 son buenos para parlantes frontales!
Love this build Bernardo! Curious How many watts can this speaker take? I'm attempting to build the cabinets now for this and modeling it on WinISD (I've replicated your crossover and box design) and i get some cone excursion just starting at 14W and up. I'm wondering if I modeled something wrong, or if this is by design - 14W would be pretty darn loud already for these little guys I think (~96db max). Thank and keep up the great videos!!
Hello Toby. Thanks for watching! It's hard to find the "sweet spot". You might have to sacrifice low frequency for higher SPL. I've worked on it a little bit here and A 5 liter box tuned to 60Hz will give you better SPL. F3 is around 52 Hz and the port is a rectangular shape, 1 cm x 15 cm by 21 cm deep. SPL peaks at 100db with 30 watts. This design will give you better cone control and port air velocity. If you wanna keep the same volume inside (same design) I suggest tuning it to 45Hz for an F3 of 40Hz. Port is 0.7 cm x 17.4 cm and 20 cm deep. This one will give you more SPL as well and lower bass. If you have win ISD, just play with it and let me know if you have any questions.
@@sonnoradesign Awesome thank you for the tips! By coincidence i started playing around with a smaller box and tuning as well and am in the same ballpark as your 5L box @60hz! As a new a builder and a little bit OCD about trying to make it the "best i can make it", it's always a big challenge sacrificing/balancing any low end extension for the overall good of the box! :D
@@BCToby great!! Let me know how it goes!! Those little drivers play pretty good low bass, you gonna get lower bass in room.
Did you notice any issues with phase on the parallel crossover? I'm used to seeing the crossover point about 6db down from the combined curve. Loved the video and your process.
Very enlightened
Thanks!!
Hi mate, can you provide the box dimension for the cube version ? Really love this design !
Hey Julien. Sure. I don’t have on the top of my head but I’ll measure when I’m back at the shop.
@@sonnoradesign perfect thanks, seen your last video today, can't wait for the SBacoustics build
It’s coming!! Measurements are 22 x 22 x 29 cm. Outside dimensions. Ports and crossovers are the same. 3/4 mdf or plywood.
@@sonnoradesign thanks for the answer, how is the low end for you on this build ? I'm planning to build a bluetooth speaker with this one, but maybe i should wait for your next videos 🙂
@@julienvankemmel9182 That’s a good Bluetooth candidate. There are some plate amplifiers that you can add to one of the speakers and it’s done. I’ll most probably make a smaller version. Not sure yet.
I would like to see those mini tower making video.
Great!!
Could we get a list of the components used on the final series crossover?
Sure:
4 x 6.8 uF capacitors
2 x 0.6 mH inductors
2 x 5.1 ohm resistor
2 x 3 ohm resistor
Thanks my friend!!
I made a similar build but using two 4" passive radiators on the sides I managed to get 65hz F3 in a 3.5L box. I used the DSA115 mid woofer paierd with a Dayton Audio tweeter I don't remember 😂 anyway they are freakishly small for how big they sound🔊
That sounds like a good result!! Passive radiators are a good bet on small closed boxes!! I have to trying sometime. Thanks for watching.
Cho thêm thông số, kích cỡ hộp, thùng loa nữa là quá tuyệt luôn
Thanks my friend. I’ll start adding more info on the website soon!
Hello I really like your channel, and your style…
your speaker look beautiful.
Which one in sound quality do you prefer ? the cube or the slim one ? (Mark audio ?)
Salutation from France 🇫🇷
Hey There. Thanks for watching! They sound different. I’d say the mark audio drivers are really detailed, mids and highs are super clear. I like them a lot. The cube seems to handle more power and be more punchy, highs are more evident. Depends a lot on your taste which one you are gonna like the most.
@@sonnoradesign thank you for responding :) "today is the best day ever" ;-)
of course I like the sound to be punch in the base and clear in the mids/high lol. I want it all 😆
can you use an 8 ohm woofer in this speaker?
Yes. The crossover should change a little bit though. Are you making those? I can check.
소리 좋아요. 한국에선 드라이버랑 네트워크 재료를 사려면 배송료가 너무 비싸요. 다음 작품도 기대하고 있겠습니다.
Thanks HakSoon. Try in Europe Soundimports!!!
Have you tried using Piezo tweeter which is very cheap.
I haven’t. I have some planar ones here, the PT Mini from Dayton. I might use them soon!
Awesomeness 👌
Woohoo! Cool
What primer are you using?
Zinsser cover stain primer Oil Base.
Hi Sonnora, i noticed that the polarity of the speaker in the schem is different, i just wondering, If both drivers are bridged to plus is it a sirias crossover?
Hello There. Yes there is a series crossover and a parallel one. Not sure which one you looking at but sometimes I have to revert the polarity.
@@sonnoradesign what i ment that on the series crossover, the tweeter plus and the woffer plus are briged, so it not really series..
@@orenerooren4208 got it. It’s series with inverted polarity.
@@sonnoradesign why to invert the polarity?
@@orenerooren4208 I did it to correct the phase.
Great video! Really liked that you showed us the whole buildprocess and also posted the plans for the build. I'm planning to build a 2.1-system and use this box design for the TCP115 (and use the TCP115 as woofer). Do you have any tips for a passive high pass filter for the TCP115? The woofer will be powered on a seperate channel with a seperate volume knob.
/Andreas
Hey Andreas. Thanks for watching. If they are gonna be in different channels and the power amp does not have an active crossover, you can make the passive filters for each driver. Have you used Xsim? You can make the filters on Xsim for your application.
Hi! Okey. I have tested Xsim a little bit (I have watched a few tutorials). But apparently I need to take some measurements and I’m not use which I’m supposed to use; free air (the files from Dayton Audio) or the enclosure. Unfortunately I don’t have a mic or the software that is required to get the files from the enclosure.
@@andreassundstrom7257 I got it. Ideally, you get the frequency response from the driver in the actual box and generate the frd and zma files.
@@andreassundstrom7257 what would be the low pass filter cutting frequency? If you use a 0.6 mH coil with a 15 uF you’d have your cut off frequency at around 2500Hz. With the frd and zma provided by Parts Express.
@@sonnoradesign Okey, then it will be difficult for me to calculate the high pass filter.
can someone suggest an internal amplifier board for these
Do not want to buy a seperate amplifer to drive these so wanted to make them powered speakers with if possible only one speaker container the amp board and driving the other.
Hey Jatin. There are some options on Parts Express in the US, or Soundimports in Europe. Look for plate amplifiers.
@@sonnoradesign thanks, I was also thinking of getting a seperate powered amplifier to power this with something like aiyima A07 Max instead of a plate
Those work pretty well. So no more built in amp?
Good.
Thank you! Cheers!
N tem legendas em portugês. :(
Deixa me ver. Deveria ter.
Good taste of Music....
Thank you my friend!!
What’s your email. I would like to buy a pair of your speakers.
Hi Felix. Can you contact me on Instagram please? @sonnoradesign
@@sonnoradesign Ok thank you 🙏