I have a 1967 Pontiac Catalina. I was installing new downpipes from the stock exhaust manifolds and broke both bolts on the passenger side. Got pissed off and left it for another day. Mike removes his entire exhaust, cuts it up then welds it back together. I feel shame. I will be out tomorrow installing mine. Thanks for the inspiration Mike.
Might Car Mods - ‘First step, jack up your car’. Stanceworks ‘First step, make a control arm’ 😂 I’m here for it - such a breadth of quality content here 👍🏻
Made me wonder, what about the *rear* tube on the arm. Also given the required difference in angle between the inner and outer wheel at extreme steering positions...
Don’t cater to anyone… don’t worry about explaining yourself too much. You’ve built a reputation as well as a following who loves your process. We are just grateful you share it with us! Keep doing you man!
Totally agree. Great job, Mike (and team)! I used to watch Wheeler Dealers and during this episode I was thinking your videos are even better than those were.
I subbed because you thanked commenters for teaching you something. Idk why this is so rare but GG on humility and putting your pride away to learn. Love this car btw. Also 756 HP!
re: the low front brake lines. I've made brake line shrouds with aluminum or steel tube cut in a half circle. Bend (if you've thought ahead) or weld on mounting tabs. Cut a slot for the trunk feed line (or weld on another half circle section making a "T" of half circle tubes). I say 711hp SAE adjusted at the crank. Such a nice truck! I know you love building but I would have a hard time ever getting rid of my projects like these. I feel like the e36, Ford truck, and 244 GTK are Stanceworks' portfolio trio.
Steady pressure, low speed and some patience and drilling stainless is less of a pain in the ass. Amazing job once again. Thank you for sharing your work.
I'm glad you mentioned Solar Flux. I've been using it for 20 years with great success. You should do a video about it. Solar Flux is so much easier to work with than full back purging with very similar results.
at 29:51 you mentioned people said to not use copper anti-seize on aluminium hardware. I looked for about 30 minutes, I could not find a single resours that said to not use copper on certain materials. The only 2 differences seem to be are the price and the heat resistance. At least in an automotive application. permatex/loctite also say there are no restrictions on material for each kind on the website. Do with this information what you will but this is what ive found. (And no I did not take a someone on a forum saying "copper bad for aluminum" seriously)
In every other example I've seen of LH/RH threaded hubs, the direction the wheel rotates during normal conditions (driving forward) is the direction that would tighten the nut (left hand thread on the left side, right hand on the right side). If you're in motion and you slam on the brakes, the momentum of that hub nut is going to put force in the direction it was already spinning. They are probably tightened to the point that it doesn't matter, but very curious about your reasoning here. *edit* after a bit more research, many manufactures (bugatti, lotus) do it the way I described, but many others do it your way.
I am still trying to understand his claim/ need of requiring left and Right center locks. All four wheels rotate the same direction and the braking force is the same on all four wheels. I haven’t been able to determine for certain but I believe from watching pit stops even the Formula 1 Race cars have the RH direction center locks on all four wheels. I would think the rear wheels or all wheel drive would be most vulnerable to loosen due to the counter force between drive torque and braking.
@@wirefeed3419 Look at a wheel's rotation when the car moves forward on the right side of the car (clockwise) as opposed to the left side of the car (counterclockwise). That's the reason for the theory of needing both RH and LH threaded centerlocks. Some cars like the Porsche Carerra GT do this, with different color center lock nuts (blue and red) to differentiate thread direction. But other cars like the Porsche GT2 and GT3 RS cars, use the same thread direction on all 4 wheels.
@@wirefeed3419 the left side of a car, counter clockwise turning propels the car forward. On the right side, clockwise makes the car go forward. But since different companies do it different ways, it seems like it doesn't matter enough to worry about.
when You weld Vband flanges bolt them up with clamp so they will not warp, also don't put Your purge plugs and weld over them, they will be fucked up. Love the built btw :D
I feel this video in my soul. Cutting up 'finished' parts, retreading old ground, shaving the yak. Videos like this are like gold for showing the reality of building something custom. Nothing works first time, if it does, it just means you haven't found the problem yet
I had my D shaft come out on my Land Cruiser at about 20 mph and 1 turn before I was getting on the freeway. Luckily I was aimed to the side of the road and didn't hit anything. I fixed it on the side of the road but I sat in the truck for a good 20 minutes trying to process how bad that could have been. I did the exact upgrade you did. Nice vid.
About aluminum nuts and bolts that you mentioned at 30:00, I once had a replacement axle made for a second hand bike fork. While I was on the machine shop with the finished axle and a hub to check for fitment, which was spotless, I decided to check the insert of the thread without any lube. Neiter I or the expert mechanic spotted that mistake. We needed to use a wrench to remove an axle not even screwed all the way down by hand. The amount of friction on 2 aluminum pieces can be insane. I didn't know which lubricant method to use on that, so now I've learn something more. Thanks for your content, it's among the best car content on the whole platform.
Absolutely insane build. I love this. So very UNIQUE and badass, too. Always great to watch and learn from you. You hide nothing - we see your brilliance, as well as your rare blunders. You explain your reasoning and rationale behind your decisions and have excellent videography to boot. Best of all, you actually DRIVE your cars. Keep up the great work.
Why wouldn't you be proud of logging a half mile? I'd be proudAF!! It's your build! It's coming to life. It works! I love it. Can't wait to see it finished.
Not sure on what breaks those are but in my experience all of the drilled and slotted rotors that I used. Manufacturer says that the slots need to go the opposite direction as to disperse the heat away from your wheel bearing versus channeling it towards the wheel bearing as they are on the front right currently. I was very surprised to find this information out but it made perfect sense to me after I thought about it. Also explains why I went through wheel bearings like crazy in autocross.
Dude the editing and music in this one was killer. Such a pleasure to watch. Also, I love this truck and will be really sorry to see it go. Especially to someone who isn’t me. Goddamn I want to buy this thing.
It's a testament to your vision and creativity that this isn't your most famous build. I'm not much of a hot rod guy but this is just about the pinnacle for me.
Really interesting video this week....including the control arm stuff !!! ...also nice to see even you have the samel pr 24:20 oblems us 'mere mortals' have when working on cars.
From my experience working with stainless, it get harder if it gets hot, so slow and steady is the best way. Using a product called edge lube helps a lot, it's alcohol based so it doesn't leave a big oily mess when you're done either. That exhaust looks awesome by the way.
This Model A is up there with some of my favourite cars on the Ol Interweb, Mike, this car is awesome, i hope you never sell it, if you do, i would love to see it in my garage in Australia. 👌
never minimize a victory, no matter how small it may seem. take pleasure in every win! truck's a beast and looks amazing, looking forward to the continued development :)
I really like the approach you take with all your builds and explaining your process. It's crazy one my other favs inheritance machine drops the same day at the same time. You should check him out and possibly get him to build you something. That collaboration would be awesome!
My guess is 641.7 rwhp. interested to see the progression of the build. started to watch your channel years ago, because of this project. Love it, be proud and keep up the wonderful work. Kind Regards from Switzerland.
love the build ! Gives me inspiration for my 37 GMC truck build .. My power will be from an LS .. not even close to your power .. but my guess would be 755 .. hope you don't hurt that motor .. cheers
Very beautiful build man! Congrats! I think that you gonna hit 844 hp on the dyno..! I hope that i will win the decks!! keep up the good work and content!!
Love the content. I have learned so much. While I don't comment every time the stuff you do is really inspiring. My thought is 766.6 hp. Good luck on the dyno!!!
Fwiw I had welds break on a steering shaft. Instead of set screws, I through-bolted & safety wired my rebuilt shaft. After becoming a "Passenger at the Wheel" at 40mph, personally, I'd never have set screws in the steering linkage since there's no positive way to secure them.
New watcher. Really enjoyed it. One thing I may have noticed...front rotors are on the wrong side of the vehicle. Usually (I may be wrong), the cooling slots start toward the spindle and go outward to the outer diameter of the rotor when the vehicle is moving forward. Keep it up! Great content!
712 whp is my guess. I guess I’m a nerd too as the detail stuff is why I follow your builds my guy! Great job, 1/4 mile, 100 feet, doesn’t matter - you should be proud.
Man, Mike.... I super appreciate your honesty and the fact that it also clearly follows good scientific processes (which are really just steps on how to learn things and evaluate information.) and the fact you are even open with mistakes makes me super happy... But I have a soapbox about how many *industry-run* (NOT scientific instutions, as a rule, any longer) studies are never published because they don't produce the results the company wanted, and the whole scientific process is set back by this being allowed. edit: The problem with the brake lines running underneath is much more about heat, at least for me, than hitting them (I don't know what your dominant comments were before). But with at least your new mounting here, I think you've solved the actual problems.
So cool to see the truck back on the road. I have a range of exhaust marking tools as well as adjustable CLR pie cut jigs, As STL files on my website to download and 3D print. not 100% sure if they would have helped in your situation though but if you know the angle you want easy to mark on the tube before going to the bandsaw. or pie cut at any CLR to get around what you need to. Ya really just don't see how small it is until its rolling past parked cars, no wonder it's scary to drive, I'd be proud it is an outstanding build, again ha-ha.
With stainless steel use really sharp drill bit low speed alot of pressure & if you want magic tap oil. The thinner the stainless steel is has a little more flex in it makes it harder to drill into.
Story time! My dad bought a Hummer H2 when they first came out brand new. We had it for about 3 years. Lots of breakdowns, but the scariest one was losing steering on the freeway. Somehow, there was still "enough" steering to limp off the freeway and onto the streets, but then soon after, the steering wheel went completely loose and could spin freely. The dealership said a pin on the steering system got pulled out. All I knew at the time was that I did not want to be in a car without steering ever again in my life lol, so I get bulletproofing the steering shaft. If I can guess 2 numbers, Supercharged Coyote on E85, I'm gonna guess 950(ish) Horsepower on a max tune, and 670 on a conservative, "streetable" tune.
Hey Mike, why not use flex joints on the header or crossover to 1: allow for slip/adjusted fitment, 2: allowing a little movement in the exhaust overall. ? 776 hp on the dyno guess!
You need to send one of that scate boards to known hobo donut operator, he has a nice collection in the background. this one would be nice addition for a hobo :)
Add some paint pen lines to those set screw lock nuts. People make fun of my marks on nuts but I can confirm no bolt has moved visually whenever I like which gives confidence and speeds up fault finding / clears your head when you think you feel a 'clonk' lol
love watching the videos and cant wait to see what your big project is. Also was hoping to see the burnout this vid but I guess i cant wait till next time. my guess is 823.10 HP
When it hit the street following the camera vehicle, I was blown away at the real-world scale and just how badass this whip is. Just sort the alignment ASAP so it has better aim than the stormtroopers it resembles. 😂 Also some floating fenders would go well on the front wheels (maybe also some heat shielding from headers as a bonus.) dyno estimate : 722Bhp
I love that this channel is getting back to its roots - control arm manufacturing.
You know thats what we are here for
A bit like Bad Obsession and their brackets.
@@sjoroverpirat you can never have too many brackets.
I have a 1967 Pontiac Catalina. I was installing new downpipes from the stock exhaust manifolds and broke both bolts on the passenger side. Got pissed off and left it for another day. Mike removes his entire exhaust, cuts it up then welds it back together. I feel shame. I will be out tomorrow installing mine. Thanks for the inspiration Mike.
My father in law just sold his 67 Grand Prix convertible, 428 HO, 4 speed. It was definitely a cool and unique car.
Oh hey! I packed that H&R box!
I used to spot my own packing in photos on web. It feels strangely good.
Might Car Mods - ‘First step, jack up your car’.
Stanceworks ‘First step, make a control arm’ 😂
I’m here for it - such a breadth of quality content here 👍🏻
....twice 😂
Made me wonder, what about the *rear* tube on the arm. Also given the required difference in angle between the inner and outer wheel at extreme steering positions...
"ads for mobile games or hair loss supplements" shots fired loll
I was about to say Keeps be sponsoring them builds tho
Legit Street Cars came to mind lol
About to comment the same lol
The mobile games are absolute junk and usually a scam, but... believe it or not, Keeps actually works!
@@j.d.8593 yeah ill for sure take Keeps over RAID or like. betterhelp :P
Don’t cater to anyone… don’t worry about explaining yourself too much. You’ve built a reputation as well as a following who loves your process. We are just grateful you share it with us! Keep doing you man!
818HP - And a FAT burnout, please!
Nice seeing you here Oddbawz
and a nice angle for a wallpaper. this thing looks bad ass
Thought you died Oddbawz you haven’t uploaded in like 2 months. Hope everything is well
Props to the camera work on this channel. All production is really good, even Mike's voice over. But the camera work is really good.
also color work and edit. Cinematics are really good.
Totally agree. Great job, Mike (and team)! I used to watch Wheeler Dealers and during this episode I was thinking your videos are even better than those were.
796.2
I never realized how small that thing is until I see it next to a 90s Toyota. Has to be terrifying with that amount of power.
I subbed because you thanked commenters for teaching you something. Idk why this is so rare but GG on humility and putting your pride away to learn. Love this car btw. Also 756 HP!
This is my first time seeing your channel, Wow! The production level is awsome! I will be back for sure!
Great tip i picked up recently is to use plastic high heat tape for piping mock up, its stronger and leaves no residue for welding, it works awesome!!
re: the low front brake lines.
I've made brake line shrouds with aluminum or steel tube cut in a half circle. Bend (if you've thought ahead) or weld on mounting tabs. Cut a slot for the trunk feed line (or weld on another half circle section making a "T" of half circle tubes).
I say 711hp SAE adjusted at the crank. Such a nice truck! I know you love building but I would have a hard time ever getting rid of my projects like these. I feel like the e36, Ford truck, and 244 GTK are Stanceworks' portfolio trio.
Steady pressure, low speed and some patience and drilling stainless is less of a pain in the ass. Amazing job once again. Thank you for sharing your work.
I'm glad you mentioned Solar Flux. I've been using it for 20 years with great success. You should do a video about it. Solar Flux is so much easier to work with than full back purging with very similar results.
Mike - been following you for years. Always love the content. While super simple, I really love your tape pipe cut trick. Absolutely brilliant!!!!
Man puts together a whole car all to go and get a cup of coffee. I appreciate the dedication
at 29:51 you mentioned people said to not use copper anti-seize on aluminium hardware. I looked for about 30 minutes, I could not find a single resours that said to not use copper on certain materials. The only 2 differences seem to be are the price and the heat resistance. At least in an automotive application. permatex/loctite also say there are no restrictions on material for each kind on the website. Do with this information what you will but this is what ive found. (And no I did not take a someone on a forum saying "copper bad for aluminum" seriously)
In every other example I've seen of LH/RH threaded hubs, the direction the wheel rotates during normal conditions (driving forward) is the direction that would tighten the nut (left hand thread on the left side, right hand on the right side). If you're in motion and you slam on the brakes, the momentum of that hub nut is going to put force in the direction it was already spinning. They are probably tightened to the point that it doesn't matter, but very curious about your reasoning here.
*edit* after a bit more research, many manufactures (bugatti, lotus) do it the way I described, but many others do it your way.
And some like the Porsche 911 GT cars use standard RH threads on all 4 center lock wheels.
Ferrari 458 GT3 wheels are also "backwards tighten"
I am still trying to understand his claim/ need of requiring left and Right center locks. All four wheels rotate the same direction and the braking force is the same on all four wheels. I haven’t been able to determine for certain but I believe from watching pit stops even the Formula 1 Race cars have the RH direction center locks on all four wheels. I would think the rear wheels or all wheel drive would be most vulnerable to loosen due to the counter force between drive torque and braking.
@@wirefeed3419 Look at a wheel's rotation when the car moves forward on the right side of the car (clockwise) as opposed to the left side of the car (counterclockwise). That's the reason for the theory of needing both RH and LH threaded centerlocks. Some cars like the Porsche Carerra GT do this, with different color center lock nuts (blue and red) to differentiate thread direction. But other cars like the Porsche GT2 and GT3 RS cars, use the same thread direction on all 4 wheels.
@@wirefeed3419 the left side of a car, counter clockwise turning propels the car forward. On the right side, clockwise makes the car go forward. But since different companies do it different ways, it seems like it doesn't matter enough to worry about.
when You weld Vband flanges bolt them up with clamp so they will not warp, also don't put Your purge plugs and weld over them, they will be fucked up.
Love the built btw :D
Add a worm drive clamp over the screws on the steering shaft, it will both totally ensure the screws won’t back out AND raise eyebrows.
@dwaynepenner2788 are you talking about a hose clamp...
I feel this video in my soul. Cutting up 'finished' parts, retreading old ground, shaving the yak. Videos like this are like gold for showing the reality of building something custom. Nothing works first time, if it does, it just means you haven't found the problem yet
daddy
38 minute episode hnnnng I'm ready
😂🤣
I had my D shaft come out on my Land Cruiser at about 20 mph and 1 turn before I was getting on the freeway. Luckily I was aimed to the side of the road and didn't hit anything. I fixed it on the side of the road but I sat in the truck for a good 20 minutes trying to process how bad that could have been. I did the exact upgrade you did. Nice vid.
About aluminum nuts and bolts that you mentioned at 30:00, I once had a replacement axle made for a second hand bike fork. While I was on the machine shop with the finished axle and a hub to check for fitment, which was spotless, I decided to check the insert of the thread without any lube. Neiter I or the expert mechanic spotted that mistake. We needed to use a wrench to remove an axle not even screwed all the way down by hand. The amount of friction on 2 aluminum pieces can be insane. I didn't know which lubricant method to use on that, so now I've learn something more. Thanks for your content, it's among the best car content on the whole platform.
yeah aluminum hardware in aluminum REALLY can "gall" up! learned that the hard way, myself many years ago!
Absolutely insane build. I love this. So very UNIQUE and badass, too. Always great to watch and learn from you. You hide nothing - we see your brilliance, as well as your rare blunders. You explain your reasoning and rationale behind your decisions and have excellent videography to boot. Best of all, you actually DRIVE your cars. Keep up the great work.
Why wouldn't you be proud of logging a half mile? I'd be proudAF!! It's your build! It's coming to life. It works! I love it. Can't wait to see it finished.
Not sure on what breaks those are but in my experience all of the drilled and slotted rotors that I used. Manufacturer says that the slots need to go the opposite direction as to disperse the heat away from your wheel bearing versus channeling it towards the wheel bearing as they are on the front right currently. I was very surprised to find this information out but it made perfect sense to me after I thought about it. Also explains why I went through wheel bearings like crazy in autocross.
Dude the editing and music in this one was killer. Such a pleasure to watch. Also, I love this truck and will be really sorry to see it go. Especially to someone who isn’t me. Goddamn I want to buy this thing.
Best channel to give me some confidence on taking on some fab work myself. Thanks Mike for your channel and advice
It's a testament to your vision and creativity that this isn't your most famous build. I'm not much of a hot rod guy but this is just about the pinnacle for me.
Really interesting video this week....including the control arm stuff !!! ...also nice to see even you have the samel pr 24:20 oblems us 'mere mortals' have when working on cars.
From my experience working with stainless, it get harder if it gets hot, so slow and steady is the best way. Using a product called edge lube helps a lot, it's alcohol based so it doesn't leave a big oily mess when you're done either. That exhaust looks awesome by the way.
This Model A is up there with some of my favourite cars on the Ol Interweb, Mike, this car is awesome, i hope you never sell it, if you do, i would love to see it in my garage in Australia. 👌
never minimize a victory, no matter how small it may seem. take pleasure in every win!
truck's a beast and looks amazing, looking forward to the continued development :)
I really like the approach you take with all your builds and explaining your process. It's crazy one my other favs inheritance machine drops the same day at the same time. You should check him out and possibly get him to build you something. That collaboration would be awesome!
The overbuilt steering shaft assembly makes me really happy. Steering is an excellent job for the belt & suspenders approach.
My guess is 641.7 rwhp. interested to see the progression of the build. started to watch your channel years ago, because of this project. Love it, be proud and keep up the wonderful work. Kind Regards from Switzerland.
love the build ! Gives me inspiration for my 37 GMC truck build .. My power will be from an LS .. not even close to your power .. but my guess would be 755 .. hope you don't hurt that motor .. cheers
Really good camera work and editing 👌
685.5, love how it's comin out man, can't wait to see what the next project is after this one is done
Bro I'm always going to be here for some more control arm builds. Keep it up brother you one of the best.
Very beautiful build man! Congrats! I think that you gonna hit 844 hp on the dyno..! I hope that i will win the decks!! keep up the good work and content!!
Such a sick build, incredible. 796.5? I gotta have those decks.
Awesome content as always man.
784HP I absolutely love your builds, the quality of work is by far the highest I have seen anywhere.
Love the content. I have learned so much. While I don't comment every time the stuff you do is really inspiring. My thought is 766.6 hp. Good luck on the dyno!!!
Fwiw I had welds break on a steering shaft. Instead of set screws, I through-bolted & safety wired my rebuilt shaft. After becoming a "Passenger at the Wheel" at 40mph, personally, I'd never have set screws in the steering linkage since there's no positive way to secure them.
802.4 is my guess! So stoked to see it back on the road, awesome work as always
That hot rod is one of your coolest builds. I'm estimating the truck is going to make around 785, plus or minus one HP.
New watcher. Really enjoyed it. One thing I may have noticed...front rotors are on the wrong side of the vehicle. Usually (I may be wrong), the cooling slots start toward the spindle and go outward to the outer diameter of the rotor when the vehicle is moving forward.
Keep it up! Great content!
I appreciate your no-nonsense videos . Thank you.
713.2
Killing it with recent episodes.
Can't wait to see what the next project is.
Good production Mike, really enjoyable to "build" with you.
712 whp is my guess. I guess I’m a nerd too as the detail stuff is why I follow your builds my guy! Great job, 1/4 mile, 100 feet, doesn’t matter - you should be proud.
Nice watch. I like all the fine shiny stainless work. Kind regards Rex in NZ.
Man, Mike.... I super appreciate your honesty and the fact that it also clearly follows good scientific processes (which are really just steps on how to learn things and evaluate information.) and the fact you are even open with mistakes makes me super happy...
But I have a soapbox about how many *industry-run* (NOT scientific instutions, as a rule, any longer) studies are never published because they don't produce the results the company wanted, and the whole scientific process is set back by this being allowed.
edit: The problem with the brake lines running underneath is much more about heat, at least for me, than hitting them (I don't know what your dominant comments were before). But with at least your new mounting here, I think you've solved the actual problems.
HP Guess 761.2HP - Awesome work & filming - THANKS!!!!
So cool to see the truck back on the road. I have a range of exhaust marking tools as well as adjustable CLR pie cut jigs, As STL files on my website to download and 3D print. not 100% sure if they would have helped in your situation though but if you know the angle you want easy to mark on the tube before going to the bandsaw. or pie cut at any CLR to get around what you need to. Ya really just don't see how small it is until its rolling past parked cars, no wonder it's scary to drive, I'd be proud it is an outstanding build, again ha-ha.
817.6 HP, can't wait to see the next episode and that thing ripping. I was hoping the coffee trip would include a quick sprint.
832.6 love this thing and love watching you at your craft. Always a pleasure
792.6 What a beautiful monster. Imagine the original owner living long enough to see it's new incarnation.
804.8 hp - love your videos! Can’t wait to see the smoke this thing can put out😮💨
She's unbelievable Mike! Small, yet massive; dwarfed by a sonata, but makes a bigger impression than a cybertruck. Atta boy Mike!
This is my favorite control arm manufacturing channel on RUclips!
Hello! Love the truck soo much, glad to see it rolling.
Im guessing 741.1 hp!
Incredible craftsmanship! Both the truck and the video production! I'm going to say 802.3hp
Good to know about the mark for left tightening nuts. Thanks! 👍
Awesome build. Nice to see it back on the road. 814.2
With stainless steel use really sharp drill bit low speed alot of pressure & if you want magic tap oil. The thinner the stainless steel is has a little more flex in it makes it harder to drill into.
Love the control arm content mike. Every new arm is a chance to improve
Story time! My dad bought a Hummer H2 when they first came out brand new. We had it for about 3 years. Lots of breakdowns, but the scariest one was losing steering on the freeway. Somehow, there was still "enough" steering to limp off the freeway and onto the streets, but then soon after, the steering wheel went completely loose and could spin freely. The dealership said a pin on the steering system got pulled out. All I knew at the time was that I did not want to be in a car without steering ever again in my life lol, so I get bulletproofing the steering shaft.
If I can guess 2 numbers, Supercharged Coyote on E85, I'm gonna guess 950(ish) Horsepower on a max tune, and 670 on a conservative, "streetable" tune.
I love this Model A rod, sadly couldn't drive it on the UK roads. 797.4HP is my thinking.
Hey Mike, why not use flex joints on the header or crossover to 1: allow for slip/adjusted fitment, 2: allowing a little movement in the exhaust overall. ? 776 hp on the dyno guess!
So nice to see it finally on the streets again! It will make 807.4 on the dyno.
Awesome!! Brilliant that she’s back on the road.
812.5hp. Exactly.
I'm going to say 580 hp to the rear wheels. Great to see this awesome build up and running! ❤👊
Very nice job ! I can't believe your channel does not have 1M+ subs (yet !)
Nice work Mike! Love that thing.
That fuel pump is ridiculously loud.
965 whp, love the truck, dope, but my most fav thing is that Ferrari, can't wait to see you on the track again
You need to send one of that scate boards to known hobo donut operator, he has a nice collection in the background. this one would be nice addition for a hobo :)
Add some paint pen lines to those set screw lock nuts.
People make fun of my marks on nuts but I can confirm no bolt has moved visually whenever I like which gives confidence and speeds up fault finding / clears your head when you think you feel a 'clonk' lol
Be proud mate, its an awesome truck!!
It will make 712hp at the wheel
Gotta be around 744hp, so I'm happy to see you get this back on the road!
Such a gorgeous build! It's gonna make 812.2 HP at the wheels
690 HP Brilliant Content. Congratulations on getting on on the road again.. -WAM
820.69 HP congrats on getting this thing back running it's absolutely sick in motion
Nice ride! I’m new to your channel and am looking forward to more.
771.1 HP. Excellent work Mike!
774,13 - I would love to see the "Receiving Transmission" design on a deck in the future!
808.5! So glad to see this thing moving again!
Man I love that truck....I'd drive it everywhere. Top notch dude!!
I am almost surprised you do not use 3D printed Exhaust mock up bends. They could really help you out I think. You already have the printer :-)
796.4
Wicked build, great to see it back!
766.4 hp, looks awesome, and the dog outro was great.
Fantastic work as always Mike. You have a lot to be proud of. 668WHP.
804.6HP and I'm pumped to see you let that monster eat those tires up!!
That coffee shop should be sponsored by Lululemon!! The talent going in and out of there is cray cray.
813.4 HP - Great episode again. Keep up the good work!
love watching the videos and cant wait to see what your big project is. Also was hoping to see the burnout this vid but I guess i cant wait till next time. my guess is 823.10 HP
When it hit the street following the camera vehicle, I was blown away at the real-world scale and just how badass this whip is. Just sort the alignment ASAP so it has better aim than the stormtroopers it resembles. 😂 Also some floating fenders would go well on the front wheels (maybe also some heat shielding from headers as a bonus.) dyno estimate : 722Bhp