Great guide, i've watched a few now and this was the clearest and easiest to follow. One thing that it seemed to have missed though was if you are riding wet snow you can use your spiked brush to give the wax little grooves to reduce surface tension.
I save the excess wax and just put it on next time. No point in throwing it away. Keeps me sliding on flats well and not much comes past me. All good 👍
i was told third hand from an expert that this is bad practice for some reason, but once melted it still works, and scraping wont affect the molecular properties of the wax, so why the hell not... if it works. I also heard you should scrape nose to tail... if so explain how the % i can ride switch..??!! Yeah, some bs in the waxing game.
@jordanmorrow4757 yeah, there bound to be SOME oil, and old wax etc, but a tiny amount. Mostly you are getting wax in/on. So you'll still be miles slicker, it's race level consideration and totally beyond the concern of an amateur who might save $$$ on wax. Unless the snow wax frkn filthy... like your white base is black with soot and oil. if you look at most advice on how to wax it's such bs unless you are a racer getting one ur two runs out of your wax. They advise: 1. Take off bindings to avoid hot spots ‐ never had issues ignoring completely with 15 different snowboards. Edging us when it matters if the edge is obstructed for the file... 2. Wax tip to tail - there's no direction in ptex. otherwise you couldn't ride switch... The only logical reason for this would be work flow, not performance related, like if someone else was taking over the wax job halfway cos your shift ended. 3. Use a brush to create grooves in the wax to reduce surface tension. Grooves in ptex make sense. Grooves in home wax jobs is frkn retarded - after one run the only grooves in the wax will be on the tips which never touched the snow... if I'm super lazy I'll run a steel over the scraped wax to get any missed patches off, if I'm at home i use a proper cover brustle brush. I ride off piste - I'll never damage the base doing that, and certainly much slower than the Rocks I encounter. I know people and ive done it myself to take a fresh waxed board with no scraping whatsoever straight to the puste and, yeah, it's slow the first run but that wax comes off fast. The only issue is the nose and tail wax hangs about so you can forget butters or blasting through pow till its rubbed off. Its also ecologically unsound because you're dumping wax on the piste and that will either stay on the ground or make it to a waterway. Anyway, that's my hot take, waxing is part bs mystical art, and part mis-applied pro level stuff that has no real impact on consumer performance.
@@trex2957 it’s mostly shops teaching which is why they probably don’t suggest reusing cause if something did happen they’d be liable, but I don’t really see why not reusing, I’ve reused surf wax sometimes, if you’re doing it at home it’s really just preference cause it’s your money and your board. Now the bindings if you’re doing it yourself is also gonna be preference. Shops again will be liable for damage so that’s why videos are mostly gonna suggest taking them off since it’s a lot of shops showing the how tos. I learned in a shop so I also do it out of habit but also for tuning it’s not in the way, don’t have to worry about dripping wax on my bindings, and don’t have to worry about the slight chance of warping from the screws pulling the board. The tip to tail thing I kinda understand. Waxing I actually go both ways. Scraping and tuning I go tip to tail. I’d say it’s more important to just go the same way so that it’s consistent. I think the tip to tail suggestion is a thing one because some boards come with a structure that is designed to push water out. Idk if you surf but I make boards so like I understand all the different contours and what not so that to me makes sense. So I think it’s just a way to be careful and consistent. Tuning I’ve done both ways tho I just make sure that time I’m doing it I go in which ever way I started but mostly tip to tail from habit. I’ve actually never heard of brushing to create grooves. I was taught brushing to remove more wax. The way I was told was imagine there’s a tiny bit playdoh in a small crack, it’s really hard to get that out cause it’s in there good, the best way to get it out if put a big piece of playdoh over it so that they touch and bind and when you lift it’ll come out. Same thing for wax usually. If you got little small pieces they’re a bit harder to pry out. If you got a big chunk it’ll just pull all of it off including the deep ones you want in. Idk how much of that is true cause I wondered why couldn’t the wax just break off but that’s what I was taught. Now if you’re doing it at home it’s usually gonna be more maintaining a board rather than looking for performance like making you that half a second faster. I usually scrape and then brush with just one or two brushes. I don’t see the need for like 4 different brushes unless you’re doing it like day before a pow day or something. I also don’t really ever hot wax. They also recommend like every 3 trips which is def just trying to get you to buy more wax. It’s obviously dependent upon conditions and your last wax job and how often you go. Biggest advice would be to see if you can learn from a few shops cause those guys will usually tell you what they do for customer boards of all levels but also just for their own board at home. Most the RUclips vids are pretty lame and I’m not saying I do it perfect but that’s just what I’ve learned from a few local spots
@@jordanmorrow4757 I get if you had a diagonal structure added - maybe... But it's not like you'd drive wax into the centre of the board or anything - it's generally longitudinal lines, or 45 degrees. And you'll either scrap it off going forward or backwards. It's just wax in tiny grooves. A couple of runs and it's all coming off anyway (excess). Ptex is harder than snow and ice so the sunk wax will hang about. I've heard of more boards being $#@&ed up by ski/snowboard shops than home waxing, but that's usually restructuring and base/edge grinding. So as long as you use an appropriate wax, and keep the iron moving and look for absorption you are going to get it 99% right. The other one percent being that race performance needed from multiple waxes and getting every bit of excess wax off before riding. Which doesn't do anything for consumers doing a wax every few days. Myself I do a full wax occasionally maybe before powder, and hit the edges with just enough wax to replenish after carving hard ice. For me at least once a week, maybe more often. Depends how often I can be bothered sneaking my shit into an apartment and cleaning it all up...
this guy is using his way to wax I guess, I wax my own stuff Use Hertel wax THE BEST and i dont wait 15min once its cool to touch start scraping I then use a nylon brush for the final finish some say go across the board but I go full length
Believe what you like... You think the ptex cares? that there is a grain? If this mattered you wouldn't be able to ride switch... you can pull it off forwards or backwards, or don't scrap at all and ride it off. So much hokus pokus.
Needs updating. Show us how to use everything in your kit
Great guide, i've watched a few now and this was the clearest and easiest to follow. One thing that it seemed to have missed though was if you are riding wet snow you can use your spiked brush to give the wax little grooves to reduce surface tension.
That would be awesome for about 5 minutes of riding...
Literally that easy?... Thanks very much for the video, im off to buy the kit right now.
I save the excess wax and just put it on next time. No point in throwing it away. Keeps me sliding on flats well and not much comes past me. All good 👍
i was told third hand from an expert that this is bad practice for some reason, but once melted it still works, and scraping wont affect the molecular properties of the wax, so why the hell not... if it works. I also heard you should scrape nose to tail... if so explain how the % i can ride switch..??!! Yeah, some bs in the waxing game.
@@trex2957I’d guess it’s because the wax is pulling up dirt and debris so if you reuse it you’re gonna be rubbing dirt onto the board
@jordanmorrow4757 yeah, there bound to be SOME oil, and old wax etc, but a tiny amount. Mostly you are getting wax in/on. So you'll still be miles slicker, it's race level consideration and totally beyond the concern of an amateur who might save $$$ on wax. Unless the snow wax frkn filthy... like your white base is black with soot and oil.
if you look at most advice on how to wax it's such bs unless you are a racer getting one ur two runs out of your wax.
They advise:
1. Take off bindings to avoid hot spots ‐ never had issues ignoring completely with 15 different snowboards. Edging us when it matters if the edge is obstructed for the file...
2. Wax tip to tail - there's no direction in ptex. otherwise you couldn't ride switch... The only logical reason for this would be work flow, not performance related, like if someone else was taking over the wax job halfway cos your shift ended.
3. Use a brush to create grooves in the wax to reduce surface tension. Grooves in ptex make sense. Grooves in home wax jobs is frkn retarded - after one run the only grooves in the wax will be on the tips which never touched the snow... if I'm super lazy I'll run a steel over the scraped wax to get any missed patches off, if I'm at home i use a proper cover brustle brush. I ride off piste - I'll never damage the base doing that, and certainly much slower than the Rocks I encounter.
I know people and ive done it myself to take a fresh waxed board with no scraping whatsoever straight to the puste and, yeah, it's slow the first run but that wax comes off fast. The only issue is the nose and tail wax hangs about so you can forget butters or blasting through pow till its rubbed off. Its also ecologically unsound because you're dumping wax on the piste and that will either stay on the ground or make it to a waterway.
Anyway, that's my hot take, waxing is part bs mystical art, and part mis-applied pro level stuff that has no real impact on consumer performance.
@@trex2957 it’s mostly shops teaching which is why they probably don’t suggest reusing cause if something did happen they’d be liable, but I don’t really see why not reusing, I’ve reused surf wax sometimes, if you’re doing it at home it’s really just preference cause it’s your money and your board.
Now the bindings if you’re doing it yourself is also gonna be preference. Shops again will be liable for damage so that’s why videos are mostly gonna suggest taking them off since it’s a lot of shops showing the how tos. I learned in a shop so I also do it out of habit but also for tuning it’s not in the way, don’t have to worry about dripping wax on my bindings, and don’t have to worry about the slight chance of warping from the screws pulling the board.
The tip to tail thing I kinda understand. Waxing I actually go both ways. Scraping and tuning I go tip to tail. I’d say it’s more important to just go the same way so that it’s consistent. I think the tip to tail suggestion is a thing one because some boards come with a structure that is designed to push water out. Idk if you surf but I make boards so like I understand all the different contours and what not so that to me makes sense. So I think it’s just a way to be careful and consistent. Tuning I’ve done both ways tho I just make sure that time I’m doing it I go in which ever way I started but mostly tip to tail from habit.
I’ve actually never heard of brushing to create grooves. I was taught brushing to remove more wax. The way I was told was imagine there’s a tiny bit playdoh in a small crack, it’s really hard to get that out cause it’s in there good, the best way to get it out if put a big piece of playdoh over it so that they touch and bind and when you lift it’ll come out. Same thing for wax usually. If you got little small pieces they’re a bit harder to pry out. If you got a big chunk it’ll just pull all of it off including the deep ones you want in. Idk how much of that is true cause I wondered why couldn’t the wax just break off but that’s what I was taught.
Now if you’re doing it at home it’s usually gonna be more maintaining a board rather than looking for performance like making you that half a second faster. I usually scrape and then brush with just one or two brushes. I don’t see the need for like 4 different brushes unless you’re doing it like day before a pow day or something. I also don’t really ever hot wax. They also recommend like every 3 trips which is def just trying to get you to buy more wax. It’s obviously dependent upon conditions and your last wax job and how often you go. Biggest advice would be to see if you can learn from a few shops cause those guys will usually tell you what they do for customer boards of all levels but also just for their own board at home. Most the RUclips vids are pretty lame and I’m not saying I do it perfect but that’s just what I’ve learned from a few local spots
@@jordanmorrow4757 I get if you had a diagonal structure added - maybe... But it's not like you'd drive wax into the centre of the board or anything - it's generally longitudinal lines, or 45 degrees. And you'll either scrap it off going forward or backwards. It's just wax in tiny grooves. A couple of runs and it's all coming off anyway (excess). Ptex is harder than snow and ice so the sunk wax will hang about.
I've heard of more boards being $#@&ed up by ski/snowboard shops than home waxing, but that's usually restructuring and base/edge grinding. So as long as you use an appropriate wax, and keep the iron moving and look for absorption you are going to get it 99% right. The other one percent being that race performance needed from multiple waxes and getting every bit of excess wax off before riding. Which doesn't do anything for consumers doing a wax every few days.
Myself I do a full wax occasionally maybe before powder, and hit the edges with just enough wax to replenish after carving hard ice. For me at least once a week, maybe more often. Depends how often I can be bothered sneaking my shit into an apartment and cleaning it all up...
I tuned my edges before 😅 now have wax on edges, guess a light run back over is fine but deffo wrong way round
I ordered your kit and received three brushes (brass, horehair, and nylon) but I didn't see you use them.
this guy is using his way to wax I guess, I wax my own stuff Use Hertel wax THE BEST and i dont wait 15min once its cool to touch start scraping I then use a nylon brush for the final finish some say go across the board but I go full length
do you scrape wax of rear to front of board ?
from front to rear...
@@gibs2b because wax has a grain... If this shit mattered you couldn't ride switch...
Ya u dont push the wax off u drag it off from behind not In front
Excellent work my friend!!
you were very helpful, 10/10 helpfulness
Nuthin like waxin in the kitchen 😂😂
great guide!
Good instruction but I brlieve you are supposed to go tip to tail
Believe what you like... You think the ptex cares? that there is a grain? If this mattered you wouldn't be able to ride switch... you can pull it off forwards or backwards, or don't scrap at all and ride it off. So much hokus pokus.
What can I use to buff it besides the "demon buffing pad"
Pretty much anything.
thanks man your a big help! :)
What a cute guy and very useful video ;)
thanks man!
Shouldn't be any problem.
Very helpful