Great video, but you should have mentioned the brass brush for exposing the structure of the board before the waxing... I went and waxed without using the brass brush first! Ah well, next time 👌
If your board is routinely waxed and the base material is already saturated, there's no need to use the brass brush first, just a quick wipedown with Scotchbrite will suffice.
I do really appreciate this great video. 10/10. I only question how important this is for the average person? “The key is to only leave a thin layer of wax.” Why not apply something from an aerosol can? It seems like a lot of application just to remove 90% of it. Or more.
Depends on how much this average person snowboards - the more you ride, the more you'll appreciate it. The heat enables the wax to penetrate the pores in the base material, thus giving it more longevity.
The point is to fill the cuts and grooves in the board only and remove all that is excess so that you get the flattest portion possible. Only a little bit of the wax is important because the cuts are so small.
Last wax I was in a hurry, was literally already in the car but forgot so I just put the wax on real quick and let the snow buff it… didn’t scrape it at all 😂
Not yet, but something could be in the works in the future. Tuning - meaning the maintenance of the edges and base on your board - is a bit more complicated than waxing and the downside of doing it wrong potentially worse . . .
Maybe a dumb question but is the temperature range for the air or snow? Do the black waxes for dirt and static actually work? It seemed to make no difference for me but maybe I did something wrong.
Wax temperatures are for snow, but that's usually quite close to the ambient air temp. Graphite added to wax does help limit static charge - you can crayon on some under the normal wax for very dry weather (normally used with colder waxes), and then melt your preferred wax over it.
Great vid to get started on the matter - clear, concise no fuzz! 🙏🏻 What's your take on chemical cleaners in addition to/instead of using a scotch brite pad? Thanks in advance.
You can simplify this process, but we've included all the steps to help make your board as fast as possible and have you waxing your board for the first time like a pro.
@@videosbyevo oh I think it's a good video and explains the process well! I think I'm just better off taking it to someone because I don't board much and don't have the space or equipment
Hello and thanks for the great video. I got a capita mercury which i rode now for like 7 days and wanna now wax it myself. it came with a nice structure that felt nice gliding. do i get good structure results with a nylon brush or is it possible to get deeper structure with a copper brush. (If copper is recommended also for finishing) Or would you say by Hand brush a good structure is not possible?
I brought a kit from amazon which came with brass and nylon brush, the brass one is a must. Initially there is a somewhat thick layer of wax left at the board since using the plastic scraper is quite hard to get the wax down to a thin layer. If you skip the brass then the whole process could become a much harder and time consuming job.
Not sure, but that is a 156 Capita board on it. It's a standard Toko portable bench for either snowboards or skis, the important thing is to have it securely fastened.
decades of knowledge in 5 minutes, thanks!
By far the best filmed and narrated vid on thw topic. Right to the point with quality info. Thank you!
A great one! Barely see any video talks about the different between all these brushes.
Great video, but you should have mentioned the brass brush for exposing the structure of the board before the waxing... I went and waxed without using the brass brush first! Ah well, next time 👌
If your board is routinely waxed and the base material is already saturated, there's no need to use the brass brush first, just a quick wipedown with Scotchbrite will suffice.
_"read instructions first"_ like *fully* prior to starting the process. ✌🏼😉
Have a great season!
Thanks Greg, very concise and clear!
Concise or robotic, I like it either way lol
Sir. Thanks for sharing your information. Your video is clear and simple 😊
I do really appreciate this great video. 10/10. I only question how important this is for the average person?
“The key is to only leave a thin layer of wax.” Why not apply something from an aerosol can?
It seems like a lot of application just to remove 90% of it. Or more.
Depends on how much this average person snowboards - the more you ride, the more you'll appreciate it. The heat enables the wax to penetrate the pores in the base material, thus giving it more longevity.
The point is to fill the cuts and grooves in the board only and remove all that is excess so that you get the flattest portion possible. Only a little bit of the wax is important because the cuts are so small.
Last wax I was in a hurry, was literally already in the car but forgot so I just put the wax on real quick and let the snow buff it… didn’t scrape it at all 😂
how did it glide?
Amazing and very helpful guide, thanks a lot!!
Never heard about brushing. Now i am interested
Very helpful. Thanks.
Got my 24/25 Epic pass. I'll be doing a lot of waxing and save some $$$. 👍
Excellent tutorial, Thanks, I needed a brush-up. Can I use a scotch-brite pad instead of a brush in the end in a pinch?
G
Hey Greg great starter video wondering if you guys can make a extended video showing how to edge or fix gauges on board.
Thanks !
Not yet, but something could be in the works in the future. Tuning - meaning the maintenance of the edges and base on your board - is a bit more complicated than waxing and the downside of doing it wrong potentially worse . . .
Maybe a dumb question but is the temperature range for the air or snow?
Do the black waxes for dirt and static actually work? It seemed to make no difference for me but maybe I did something wrong.
Snow. Not sure about your 2nd question
Wax temperatures are for snow, but that's usually quite close to the ambient air temp. Graphite added to wax does help limit static charge - you can crayon on some under the normal wax for very dry weather (normally used with colder waxes), and then melt your preferred wax over it.
great vid
Great vid to get started on the matter - clear, concise no fuzz! 🙏🏻
What's your take on chemical cleaners in addition to/instead of using a scotch brite pad?
Thanks in advance.
awesome video!
This is so much effort
You can simplify this process, but we've included all the steps to help make your board as fast as possible and have you waxing your board for the first time like a pro.
@@videosbyevo oh I think it's a good video and explains the process well! I think I'm just better off taking it to someone because I don't board much and don't have the space or equipment
So good.
Very helpful. Thanks
When you buy a new snowboard, are they already waxed? Nice video
They are.
It comes with a factory wax but I don’t know for how long the wax job is good.
My only question is, does the process change if the base is standard/extruded vs. sintered?
The process is the same, but the durability of a wax job on a sintered base is much better.
@@greglouie7965thanks
Got a burr on my iron which I noticed has done some minor scratching. Any suggestions on how to smooth that out?
Hello and thanks for the great video. I got a capita mercury which i rode now for like 7 days and wanna now wax it myself. it came with a nice structure that felt nice gliding. do i get good structure results with a nylon brush or is it possible to get deeper structure with a copper brush. (If copper is recommended also for finishing) Or would you say by Hand brush a good structure is not possible?
I brought a kit from amazon which came with brass and nylon brush, the brass one is a must. Initially there is a somewhat thick layer of wax left at the board since using the plastic scraper is quite hard to get the wax down to a thin layer. If you skip the brass then the whole process could become a much harder and time consuming job.
Would it not be better to tune after the wax? Otherwise there may be wax particles on your edges?
Metal particles in your wax are much worse; also you can clean the edges by running a Scotchbrite pad over them a few times.
Can I wax the Bord by putting backingpaper between the wax and the Iron so I can still use ist for clothes?
Dang youre a wizard!
Im a do'er....but yikes...seems like a lot.
I bought a waxing kit on Amazon and it included all the products he uses and honestly did not take that much time!! I recommend!
What is the size of the bench you are using
Not sure, but that is a 156 Capita board on it. It's a standard Toko portable bench for either snowboards or skis, the important thing is to have it securely fastened.
No fiberlene? Come on
Wax on, wax off