I usually don't comment on videos, but I feel like I need to warn people that this is NOT how to properly tune a board. First of all, he's using the file guide wrong. the guide should always run flat across the base no matter if you're sharpening the base or side edges. Just move your stone to the base or side insert. The way he uses it ensures that the angle will be way off and inconsistent. Also when he starts to scrape the board after the wax he says, "don't take all the wax off". You definitely want to scrape it all off to get a smooth surface. The wax will absorb into the pores of the base and you want to get everything off the surface. I cringed when he started running that file down the contact points of the board too. Oh and using tape on a file to set a bevel angle.....if you're going to tune your board, just spend the extra cash and get a file guide so you can do the job properly. It's going to cost a lot more to replace your board after you destroy the edges.
most likely he is "tuning" it for park and street, so he will juts round all edges even the contacts, but he did kind of give a cool tip - like the file with tape if you actually work out say how much you need to get a 1 deg of 90 and juts use this file only for base he could be ok with it - super tight budget tho since angle setter is not so much
And also, to be on the safe and nice side, please do nose to tail movements with the brush and tab, in this order, after you've waxed the board :) This way you'll create some micro-channels that will guide the melted snow below your board nice and clean, from nose to tail, with as little friction as possible.
"Oh I'm doing this board for a guy who likes to carve", proceeds to completely fuck that board.
10 месяцев назад
Thanks this helped alot. I was able to get what I needed and wax the board quickly. I aaw another video that said to let sit for 24 hrs after applying wax to allow it to soak before scraping it. Turned out great looks like new...
Rome SDS is a good choice! I picked up my shank at the end of the season last year, only got to ride it for 1 week. can't wait to get back out and shred! Nov 29 we open!
The title is incorrect. I used to get paid to wax skis and did some snowboards. I have worked with a world cup tuning tech from swix. I would recommend another video. These techniques are not recommended and like others have said, he is messing up his board. His age is similar to his experience and knowledge, very young with not much knowledge on the proper way to tune a snowboard. He did not learn these techniques from anyone who knows how to properly tune a board!
I just use arkansas stones on my edges. My biggest gripe is the actual board itself. I am way over the weight for my height that they are designed for I am a bodybuilder. I do not actually need extremely sharp edges my weight will push it into the snow. What happens is that the nose and tail are not wide enough and the board itself is not thick enough. At low speed I can do anything I want to and not wipe out. If I am going fast I have to be very gentle because the board will vibrate and oscillate violently enough to cause cracking. What happens I am trying to change direction and an area near the nose and tail are in contact sliding through the snow. My weight flexes the board then it springs back several times a second. Generally cracks form where my bindings are mounted because that is where the loads are taken up and the holes create a stress concentration.
Old guy here, Do not use a file without a handle. Ive seen the carnage the handle end does without a handle. If it hangs up you will see for yourself. Other than that thanks for the vid dude.
I only tuned then detuned for demonstration purposes only. Again, you would want to tune (sharpen) your edges if you are looking to carve or race. however, you would want to detune (dull) your edges if you want to hit rails and other jib features. I hope this helps. -Conglomerate
Dude, please do the general snowboarding public a favor and remove this video. Almost everything done in it is plain and simply wrong. Oh my god, that board just got brutalized. You shouldn't be making movies pretending to know what you are talking about, it's not funny, or a joke, people will be following this video at home and damaging their boards.
Nathan Albritton well on a new board or after you completely sharpen a board you normally want to detune 2 inches down from the contact point and up. It helps with catching your edge. But don’t follow this video all of his techniques are shit.
A properly finished board will still show a 'grain' after many runs. This is the first waxing clip I've seen on RUclips (and there's many) which shows a circular motion being used. There's a reason for that..
you shouldn't have to tune a snowboard more than once a year but its all personal preference. I would however suggest that you de-burr your edges when waxing for a smoother ride!
Every company that i have dealt with puts a factory wax on their boads. Since a factory wax is a belt wax, i would just shred it as is and wax it after a couple days out.
Windex will not clean the base well..the best thing to use is a citrus cleaner...I recommend the types that are sold at snowboard and ski shops..but u can also get citrus cleaners at walmart or home depot ...
The amount of wax also makes more of a difference with the type of snow you are riding on. During the regular season I always rock wax and scrape most everything off, but late season is different. Sometimes I wax and don't even bother scraping just because within one run the excess will be gone. Other times I don't even wax and I'm fast as hell. Moral of the story though, try it all! Experiment and get to know your snowboard!
Erik... I personally don't mind a little extra wax, as long as i can create a very smooth base. However if you scrape it then flex your board and you can see the wax crack, then there is way too much wax. You will usually see this cracking underneath the bindings. This is because most people tighten their bindings too much causing the base to be pulled up underneath the inserts.
Hey, just got my brand new snowboard and i was wondering, how do i know if it has a factory wax, and if it does have one, do i have to use the citrus cleaner to clean te base and then wax or just wax over the factory wax
Many places say to basically scrape off all the wax you put on the board then scotchbrite it. Sounds like you leave some on and scotchbrite? What do you think on this?
hey man I was wondering if you are meant to scrape all of the wax off. cos I watched a couple of vids on how to wax now and some say to scrape it all off and some say to leave some on?? whats your opinion??
wont be anywhere near park level anytime soon, but im curious. how important is tuning? we talkin difference is faceplant vs. not, or just noticeable difficulty on box/rails?
if the edge is sharp and catches on a rail, you can definitely faceplant into the rail. This is why park riders often detune the hip edges. Is it necessary? No. Does it help a bit? yeah. Detuning the ends (widest points) is different, thats for downhill riding especially when you want to butter, it helps keep the tail/nose from grabbing too much when you turn the board around. But downhill you do NOT want to detune the Hip edges, just the ends of the board.
do u need that pad to rub in the wax at the end or if u skip it does it make a big difference. what could i use to replace that pad. also do u need a gummy stone
brilo pad cost a dollar at any store anywhere. just use it. Do you need to nylon brush afterward? No you dont NEED to, but I would do it. The real pros even go to a horsehair brush after that.
Dude, ignore everything in this video, it is all wrong. He even has the edge tuning tool the wrong way and totally stuffs that edge. You can't really put "more" wax along the edge as you scrap off excess wax. Don't leave excess wax on your board or it will slow you down until the snow buffs it down. You can though use a harder wax along the edges or add something like Swix hard powder along the edges. A useful option if you ride in an icy area. You are right about the area getting the most use, and it is the first area you will see your base showing signs a new wax job is due.
7:35 mmm...gotta love those good "evening" coatings. lol....he also forgot to mention ; WHILE DRIPPING THE WAX - IF THERES SMOKE AT ALL - YOURE RUNNING THE IRON TOO HOT. TAKE IT DOWN A NOTCH - JUST LIKE MY CAPS LOCK. IMA take it down a notch...AND ALLLLLLWAYS STROKE THE LENGTH OF THE BOARD! NOT CIRCLES! LOL....AND YES TAKE ALLLLL THE WAX OFF LMAO YOUR BOARD HAS "PORES" TO TAKE IN WAX!...and also GIVE EXTRA LOVIN AROUND THE FIRST 2 INCHES IN ALLLLLL AROUND YOUR BOARD (tips n tails doesnt matter much aside from that first contact point, both ways ;) ...otherwise a well done walkthrough lmaooo...and fyi, i do NOT recommend the crayon technique lol thats dumb. you can buy speed wax if you like doing that. or keep it handy in a pocket on the mtn if you want (u can buy a little shoe polish-esque container. very sleek and circle case which wont bother your pocket junk =) ).....lol i take it back. ill give this a 70% C- walkthrough lol but he was def right about preference for edge tuning. same goes for boots n binding setup. i ride lose boots and the guus at stores were tellin me no. fuck u man ill ride how im comfortable...anyways im still giving it an upvote because he tried. lol
i was looking for a vid for my friend to watch because he wants to do his own waxing. im not just going througb tutorials to bash lmao but i wouldnt recommend this one. im just gonna make my own when i have time for editing.. ima check a few more vids but maybe ill upload one if i cant find a good one i.e 93%+ hahaha
+efcpepperjack Well jeez you seem to know so much about how to tune the board perhaps you should just teach your friend how to do it and stop being a douchebag.
+Jedi Master Smoochie well gee, i do. but i figured id let ppl know the dos n donts of this vid. and yeah i am a dick. online and irl, so go play w your dolls.
And lets be clear, you plainly stated you were looking for a good video for your friend to learn how to wax his snowboard. You obviously know how to do it or you simply googled it and became the instant professional after watching the google video. So before you go ripping apart what this kid does (he obviously gets paid for it, which makes him a professional) post a vid and show us your skills. Time to put up or shut up.
Virginia Mialma no you can't. Citrus cleaner is as strong a cleaner as you want to use. Don't use a base cleaner every time, it will ruin your base. Search for videos on hot scraping a ski, that will show you the proper way to clean a base. Actually while you are at it have a look for other tuning videos entirely, this one is one of the worst on youtube.
Windex would not work as a cleaner because it is not a strong enough solvent to remove the wax from the pits and grooves that are designed into your base. I would recommend a citrus cleaner. In regards to your edge angle, a 90 degree bevel is normally used for racing and 88 would be a decent edge for general riding. However, I would bevel much more if you are contemplating hitting rails or boxes.
The objective of cleaning your base is to remove any dirt or old wax that is in the pits and grooves that are in your base. If you want to simplify and speed up the waxing process use a base cleaner. However if you are going to own your snowboard for a couple years or more and you really want to take care of your base, hot scrape it.
every time you clean your base it takes out all the wax in your board! only clean it once every season if you need to!! I personally suggest to clean via a hot wax, that way all the wax is not removed from the board.
Why file the edges, if you round it down anyway? I think that´s material waste (metal edges) and edges are unreplaceable if I know right. Sharp side edges are important for carving (~88°), if you like the loose feel for jumps and jibbs just leave the edges alone (~90° and the "sharp" edges wear down during usage anyway). Just my 2 cents. Cheers
Nope it doesn't matter the base is still a sintered UHMWPE the only difference is the geometry of the base horizontally. With this being said, the only difference will be the scraping process. Scrape with the angle then smoothen it all out with a Scotch Brite pad!
Brah... this is the most brutal butcher job on a board possible - no matter where you ride. Should be called .."How to Properly Destroy a Snowboard". You just totally destroyed the base bevel - it's gonna ride like a complete piece of shit
+KingInky13 Park riders like detuned edges so they don't catch on features. Riding downhill, you're guaranteeing yourself no traction or edge hold by blunting them.
actually if the water is really warm, and you put just a tiny bit of dishsoap in it (and make sure to rinse well afterward) I find it does a better job than the citrus cleaners and for essentially $0
Are you referring to the buffing/smoothing step after scraping the wax? if so... would the orientation of my buffing strokes really make any difference after the first run? that might be a potential concern in the Olympics when you are trying to shave off .0001 seconds... but not for the average snowboarder.
If you use a file it will leave pits and take off too much metal. There is not much metal to begin with it looks like 20 gauge 304 stainless. Thats only 36 thousandths of an inch. Stainless steel is soft to begin with.
I am supised no one has tried to sell a board with titanium edges. That wouldn't work worth shit. Titanium is too soft and can't take abrasion. On TV titanium is better than waspalloy or haynes 188. In real life it a soft material that is fairly strong in tension but can't withstand abrasion.
I usually don't comment on videos, but I feel like I need to warn people that this is NOT how to properly tune a board. First of all, he's using the file guide wrong. the guide should always run flat across the base no matter if you're sharpening the base or side edges. Just move your stone to the base or side insert. The way he uses it ensures that the angle will be way off and inconsistent. Also when he starts to scrape the board after the wax he says, "don't take all the wax off". You definitely want to scrape it all off to get a smooth surface. The wax will absorb into the pores of the base and you want to get everything off the surface. I cringed when he started running that file down the contact points of the board too. Oh and using tape on a file to set a bevel angle.....if you're going to tune your board, just spend the extra cash and get a file guide so you can do the job properly. It's going to cost a lot more to replace your board after you destroy the edges.
most likely he is "tuning" it for park and street, so he will juts round all edges even the contacts, but he did kind of give a cool tip - like the file with tape if you actually work out say how much you need to get a 1 deg of 90 and juts use this file only for base he could be ok with it - super tight budget tho since angle setter is not so much
And also, to be on the safe and nice side, please do nose to tail movements with the brush and tab, in this order, after you've waxed the board :) This way you'll create some micro-channels that will guide the melted snow below your board nice and clean, from nose to tail, with as little friction as possible.
Yeah nah, edge tuner doesn’t belong on base
Obviously taking the piss haha
You should comment on videos more often. That's some good advice, buddy
"Oh I'm doing this board for a guy who likes to carve", proceeds to completely fuck that board.
Thanks this helped alot. I was able to get what I needed and wax the board quickly. I aaw another video that said to let sit for 24 hrs after applying wax to allow it to soak before scraping it. Turned out great looks like new...
You had me in the first half. I was pissed.
Nice satire, this is hilarious.
Thanks full comprehensive explanation and easy to follow :)
I like the quick tips i.e. the marker on the edge.
Nice work. Very nice. @9:26 yeah, I was going to say you probably want to hold it down and keep it from moving. You’re way ahead of me haha
Rome SDS is a good choice! I picked up my shank at the end of the season last year, only got to ride it for 1 week. can't wait to get back out and shred! Nov 29 we open!
cool I'm thinking about getting that board or the artifact. What do you think about the shank? Did it work good in the park as well as downhill?
The title is incorrect. I used to get paid to wax skis and did some snowboards. I have worked with a world cup tuning tech from swix. I would recommend another video. These techniques are not recommended and like others have said, he is messing up his board. His age is similar to his experience and knowledge, very young with not much knowledge on the proper way to tune a snowboard. He did not learn these techniques from anyone who knows how to properly tune a board!
I just use arkansas stones on my edges. My biggest gripe is the actual board itself. I am way over the weight for my height that they are designed for I am a bodybuilder. I do not actually need extremely sharp edges my weight will push it into the snow. What happens is that the nose and tail are not wide enough and the board itself is not thick enough. At low speed I can do anything I want to and not wipe out. If I am going fast I have to be very gentle because the board will vibrate and oscillate violently enough to cause cracking. What happens I am trying to change direction and an area near the nose and tail are in contact sliding through the snow. My weight flexes the board then it springs back several times a second. Generally cracks form where my bindings are mounted because that is where the loads are taken up and the holes create a stress concentration.
Nice video and nice tips with the marker and the tape
can you use buffer and polish?
Good video, explained everything perfectly in great detail. Thank you.
I heard that using a base cleaner drys up your board and isnt good for it; while hot scraping is ideal. Whats going on...im confused?
Strong knowledge, not serious.
Thanx man.. great video.. and really friendly cool man.. keep posting.. thanx for all tips.. perfect
Set it to a lower temp like for silk or acrylic...You only need the iron to be around 250F
Leave a thin coat on it helps protect the board from wear and it protects from rails too so best to leave a little
Old guy here, Do not use a file without a handle. Ive seen the carnage the handle end does without a handle. If it hangs up you will see for yourself. Other than that thanks for the vid dude.
If I left my iron sitting on my board, my last concern would be the quality of my wax brother
well if you followed this dudes instructions, you may as well rub your poo into the base. lol
I only tuned then detuned for demonstration purposes only. Again, you would want to tune (sharpen) your edges if you are looking to carve or race. however, you would want to detune (dull) your edges if you want to hit rails and other jib features. I hope this helps.
-Conglomerate
Dude, please do the general snowboarding public a favor and remove this video. Almost everything done in it is plain and simply wrong. Oh my god, that board just got brutalized. You shouldn't be making movies pretending to know what you are talking about, it's not funny, or a joke, people will be following this video at home and damaging their boards.
gavwa08 could you make a video of how to proper wax a snowboard?
"Don't use your mom's iron, cause you'll ruing your dad's clothes" 🤣
dude, you even have a rocker iron :)
well made video.
Did he just file down the contact points?!?!?
Nathan Albritton well on a new board or after you completely sharpen a board you normally want to detune 2 inches down from the contact point and up. It helps with catching your edge. But don’t follow this video all of his techniques are shit.
A properly finished board will still show a 'grain' after many runs.
This is the first waxing clip I've seen on RUclips (and there's many) which shows a circular motion being used.
There's a reason for that..
Nice vid. Great info
this video is awesome!!!!
you shouldn't have to tune a snowboard more than once a year but its all personal preference. I would however suggest that you de-burr your edges when waxing for a smoother ride!
Big help to someone that's gotta doit herself!
Every company that i have dealt with puts a factory wax on their boads. Since a factory wax is a belt wax, i would just shred it as is and wax it after a couple days out.
Conglomerate Ltd. you defiantly want to get it waxed and detuned before you ride it..
thanks for the video. are you in some kind of WMD laboratory? or ammo reloading?
Windex will not clean the base well..the best thing to use is a citrus cleaner...I recommend the types that are sold at snowboard and ski shops..but u can also get citrus cleaners at walmart or home depot ...
Even though your tip and tail are not part of your effective edge, having a rounded edge along the tip and tail will allow you to butter more freely.
subtitles are so fun ^^
The amount of wax also makes more of a difference with the type of snow you are riding on. During the regular season I always rock wax and scrape most everything off, but late season is different. Sometimes I wax and don't even bother scraping just because within one run the excess will be gone. Other times I don't even wax and I'm fast as hell. Moral of the story though, try it all! Experiment and get to know your snowboard!
Super sick video man . I'm all about Walmart irons .what setting do I need to set it on?
dope video, thanks!
What if yoi dont have a gummy stone or diamond stone to smooth it out after detuning it. Can you still fyle it without smoothing it out.
great video. does the sharpenning and scrapping must be done from nose to tail only?
Yes definitely!!! especially if you are going to be riding park! take care of them edges son!
Erik... I personally don't mind a little extra wax, as long as i can create a very smooth base. However if you scrape it then flex your board and you can see the wax crack, then there is way too much wax. You will usually see this cracking underneath the bindings. This is because most people tighten their bindings too much causing the base to be pulled up underneath the inserts.
Yo do you have to have a specific iron for a snowboard or you can use a regular clothing iron??
did you just used a side angle file guide to file the base edge?
Hey, just got my brand new snowboard and i was wondering, how do i know if it has a factory wax, and if it does have one, do i have to use the citrus cleaner to clean te base and then wax or just wax over the factory wax
-7 which is pretty cold..... nope, but pretty good video
Many places say to basically scrape off all the wax you put on the board then scotchbrite it. Sounds like you leave some on and scotchbrite? What do you think on this?
hey man I was wondering if you are meant to scrape all of the wax off. cos I watched a couple of vids on how to wax now and some say to scrape it all off and some say to leave some on?? whats your opinion??
so after i detune the tail and nose with the file. can i clean it up with a pumice stone?
Why is the video filmed in a quality control lab?
+Tan N cuz theres some scientifical shit goin on in this video
Because when he went to detune those contact points they threw him outta the snowboard store. Haha
Is using the tape good enough for doing the base?
Rome sds boards kick ass!
wont be anywhere near park level anytime soon, but im curious. how important is tuning? we talkin difference is faceplant vs. not, or just noticeable difficulty on box/rails?
if the edge is sharp and catches on a rail, you can definitely faceplant into the rail. This is why park riders often detune the hip edges. Is it necessary? No. Does it help a bit? yeah. Detuning the ends (widest points) is different, thats for downhill riding especially when you want to butter, it helps keep the tail/nose from grabbing too much when you turn the board around. But downhill you do NOT want to detune the Hip edges, just the ends of the board.
do u need that pad to rub in the wax at the end or if u skip it does it make a big difference. what could i use to replace that pad. also do u need a gummy stone
brilo pad cost a dollar at any store anywhere. just use it. Do you need to nylon brush afterward? No you dont NEED to, but I would do it. The real pros even go to a horsehair brush after that.
why is everyone hating, everyone does it differently.
I've heard it's good to put more wax on the edges cause it gets the most use
Dude, ignore everything in this video, it is all wrong. He even has the edge tuning tool the wrong way and totally stuffs that edge. You can't really put "more" wax along the edge as you scrap off excess wax. Don't leave excess wax on your board or it will slow you down until the snow buffs it down. You can though use a harder wax along the edges or add something like Swix hard powder along the edges. A useful option if you ride in an icy area. You are right about the area getting the most use, and it is the first area you will see your base showing signs a new wax job is due.
is there any difference if you have a TBT board?
thanks for the vid!
Would it be ok to tune a snowboard you just bought? Or should it be tuned different ways for different types?
would windex work as cleaner? and for different edge angles what does 90 and 88 degrees do differently ?
Very Helpful, Thanks!
Can I sweep pick on this?
decent banter
how often do you need to clean your base
Thanks dude, much help!
My last step it to use cork and rub the base down. Or a ball of newspaper if desperate.
-7 lol.. come to canada plz
I now this a years old comment, but like....-7 F is like, -21 in C.
Snowboard Trick List for iPhone!
7:35 mmm...gotta love those good "evening" coatings. lol....he also forgot to mention ; WHILE DRIPPING THE WAX - IF THERES SMOKE AT ALL - YOURE RUNNING THE IRON TOO HOT. TAKE IT DOWN A NOTCH - JUST LIKE MY CAPS LOCK. IMA take it down a notch...AND ALLLLLLWAYS STROKE THE LENGTH OF THE BOARD! NOT CIRCLES! LOL....AND YES TAKE ALLLLL THE WAX OFF LMAO YOUR BOARD HAS "PORES" TO TAKE IN WAX!...and also GIVE EXTRA LOVIN AROUND THE FIRST 2 INCHES IN ALLLLLL AROUND YOUR BOARD (tips n tails doesnt matter much aside from that first contact point, both ways ;) ...otherwise a well done walkthrough lmaooo...and fyi, i do NOT recommend the crayon technique lol thats dumb. you can buy speed wax if you like doing that. or keep it handy in a pocket on the mtn if you want (u can buy a little shoe polish-esque container. very sleek and circle case which wont bother your pocket junk =) ).....lol i take it back. ill give this a 70% C- walkthrough lol but he was def right about preference for edge tuning. same goes for boots n binding setup. i ride lose boots and the guus at stores were tellin me no. fuck u man ill ride how im comfortable...anyways im still giving it an upvote because he tried. lol
i was looking for a vid for my friend to watch because he wants to do his own waxing. im not just going througb tutorials to bash lmao but i wouldnt recommend this one. im just gonna make my own when i have time for editing.. ima check a few more vids but maybe ill upload one if i cant find a good one i.e 93%+ hahaha
+efcpepperjack Well jeez you seem to know so much about how to tune the board perhaps you should just teach your friend how to do it and stop being a douchebag.
+Jedi Master Smoochie well gee, i do. but i figured id let ppl know the dos n donts of this vid. and yeah i am a dick. online and irl, so go play w your dolls.
Keyboard commando..lol No reason to be a douche. My Dolls are mine and no you can't play.
And lets be clear, you plainly stated you were looking for a good video for your friend to learn how to wax his snowboard. You obviously know how to do it or you simply googled it and became the instant professional after watching the google video. So before you go ripping apart what this kid does (he obviously gets paid for it, which makes him a professional) post a vid and show us your skills. Time to put up or shut up.
Hi! Why do you tune and then detune the edges? Why don't you just let it be the way it is (detuned)?
can you use laquer thinner as the base cleaner
Virginia Mialma no you can't. Citrus cleaner is as strong a cleaner as you want to use. Don't use a base cleaner every time, it will ruin your base. Search for videos on hot scraping a ski, that will show you the proper way to clean a base. Actually while you are at it have a look for other tuning videos entirely, this one is one of the worst on youtube.
dope
oh ok! So, does this mean that I don't have to work every time I wax my board (twice a year)?
Hey! I was wondering what's the difference between scrape the wax off or just leave the wax on. What is better?
absolutely scrape the wax off
people often leave ax on their boards (dont scrape) FOR STORAGE through the summer, but ALWAYS scrape the wax off before riding.
is this all the same with skis?
do you wax before the season starts or at the end of the season?
wax every like 10 - 20 hours of riding.
Windex would not work as a cleaner because it is not a strong enough solvent to remove the wax from the pits and grooves that are designed into your base. I would recommend a citrus cleaner. In regards to your edge angle, a 90 degree bevel is normally used for racing and 88 would be a decent edge for general riding. However, I would bevel much more if you are contemplating hitting rails or boxes.
1.5X speed is a good tip for watching this video.
The objective of cleaning your base is to remove any dirt or old wax that is in the pits and grooves that are in your base. If you want to simplify and speed up the waxing process use a base cleaner. However if you are going to own your snowboard for a couple years or more and you really want to take care of your base, hot scrape it.
what if i do both with 1 board
every time you clean your base it takes out all the wax in your board! only clean it once every season if you need to!! I personally suggest to clean via a hot wax, that way all the wax is not removed from the board.
ALWAYS clean your board EVERYTIME BEFORE YOU WAX. Wax your board every 10 - 20 hours of riding.
-7 is not cold. in Canada that is warmer then average. but good vid
does any body notice how high his left eye brow is....
Bryan Delos Santos I notice that a lot of people in the comments are more focused on a persons appearance than the entire point of the video.
@@xamir1113x there is no point to the video... it's all wrong!
There is so much wrong in this video.
are you doing melt flow tests on that wax or what?
Why file the edges, if you round it down anyway? I think that´s material waste (metal edges) and edges are unreplaceable if I know right. Sharp side edges are important for carving (~88°), if you like the loose feel for jumps and jibbs just leave the edges alone (~90° and the "sharp" edges wear down during usage anyway). Just my 2 cents.
Cheers
Nope it doesn't matter the base is still a sintered UHMWPE the only difference is the geometry of the base horizontally. With this being said, the only difference will be the scraping process. Scrape with the angle then smoothen it all out with a Scotch Brite pad!
So the goal is to have round edges?
Brah... this is the most brutal butcher job on a board possible - no matter where you ride. Should be called .."How to Properly Destroy a Snowboard". You just totally destroyed the base bevel - it's gonna ride like a complete piece of shit
is eyebrow still stuck?
if you ride park this is definitly your vid. if you ride downhill for the love of god watch a different video
Care to explain why this is no good for downhill riding?
+KingInky13 Park riders like detuned edges so they don't catch on features. Riding downhill, you're guaranteeing yourself no traction or edge hold by blunting them.
Rhome Anderson But he explains about sharpening edges for downhill riding, then he explains detuning for park riding.
Kurt Carpenter no shit... This is scary watching... Kids are going mutate some rides
Watches him detune a contact point..........
Turns off video
To clean the board can you use water
No but you can use almost any type of cleaner, water want really clean
actually if the water is really warm, and you put just a tiny bit of dishsoap in it (and make sure to rinse well afterward) I find it does a better job than the citrus cleaners and for essentially $0
2:51 wont that break ur board
Are you referring to the buffing/smoothing step after scraping the wax? if so... would the orientation of my buffing strokes really make any difference after the first run? that might be a potential concern in the Olympics when you are trying to shave off .0001 seconds... but not for the average snowboarder.
Nice buss duct in the back
your left eyebrow is so high, you like hitting things... and you love tuning it wrong...
If you use a file it will leave pits and take off too much metal. There is not much metal to begin with it looks like 20 gauge 304 stainless. Thats only 36 thousandths of an inch. Stainless steel is soft to begin with.
I am supised no one has tried to sell a board with titanium edges. That wouldn't work worth shit. Titanium is too soft and can't take abrasion. On TV titanium is better than waspalloy or haynes 188. In real life it a soft material that is fairly strong in tension but can't withstand abrasion.
is this black star i hear?
good shit! thanks dude!