That 600 mm a second test print came out so well because it has no sharp corners. It's very specifically designed to reduce acceleration as much as possible so there's no chance for artifacting or ringing. Anytime you introduce sharp corners anywhere it's going to create much more opportunity for these things to happen. The reality is though that pretty much any actual model is going to have sharp corners so whereas the built-in 600 mm per second print is fun to see it's not indicative of any sort of practically attainable results at those speeds.
how about printing corners as single lines and the extruder makes a curve at the corner like an 8, where the corner is the center intersection, this would eliminate ringing without needing imput shaping, there is more time for accelleration in the curve where the extrusion is stopped
That kind of just goes for most benchmark prints of that kind, definitely does not reflect real world performance. It's impressive considering it's creality nonetheless.
I understood the 600 mm/sec sample part trick that Creality did, but when using CAD to design my parts, I try to consider all aspects of the 3D printing manufacturing and I optimize the geometry to make the best 3D printed parts. That definitely includes fillets on corners in the XY plane when possible to make it as easy as possible on the trajectory planner. These new coreXY printers have a couple of nice tricks to improve high speed print quality including accelerometers to detect and correct motion errors, but it still helps to design parts that don't have inherent problems with very high accel/decel rates.
It's kinda like a car, you never go your cars max speed, but the faster the car the better the handling at normal speeds. If your max speed is 600mm/s you'll print better at 60mm/s than a printer with a max speed of 80mm/s.
JJ, great vid. Been very anxious to see this printer. Great overview and I can't wait to see how they tune it and make it better. Knowing Creality and the open source nature of the Ender series, I hope the community is given the opportunity and can mod the K1 similarly for sound, print settings, etc.
There are two different options for offline printing on the BL printers. You can choose lan only mode and then print from the slicer directly to the printer or you can just take the SD card out put the file on it stick it back in the printer and print it from there just like on any old printer. Your last file printed is the plate1.gcode file on the SD card so you can at least reprint the last one you sent to it through the cloud or local lan.
You can also just change the Print button to Send, and send your file to the printer locally without the cloud even without turning on LAN mode. However, it doesn't start the print. It just puts the file on the printer for you to choose from the screen
@@technicallyreal I love using the send mode for plates I need to print a few times. I’m already going to be at the printer anyways to clean the build plate, so it saves time provided that the sliced file doesn’t have an issue.
The speed test squiggle model has no corners, so keeping the speed and quality is easy. I'd like to see it printed at the limit of a V6 hot end on a Marlin based machine.
P1P has a LAN only mode these days so the uploading to the cloud is not necessary. You can also put it on an SD card just like you would for the k1 (except SD card instead of USB drive)
Nice review. This felt a lot more thorough than the other videos already availale about it. Interestingly that first layer was also an issue on the k1's other people got. So that might be an issue with all of them.
It's kind of funny with the MK4 upgrade.. it's almost more wasteful than buying a new machine. You need to replace up to 90% of your MK3S parts. So up to 90% of a printer sits in pieces and might get thrown out, vs buying a whole MK4 and having a whole functional MK3S leftover for someone else to keep using.
I'd really like to see some info about the P1P, X1C, Mk4, and K1 printing their 'best' at whatever speed that ends up being. Its all well and good to crush it for speed, but when I'm actually printing, I want a 100% success rate with a great quality print as fast as possible but no faster.. finding that happy medium with various filaments is obviously a bit of work, but pick a few 'normal' filaments and compare if you could!?!?
This is the best review so far for sure. Really shows what taking a little extra time can do. Not really trying to knock anyone else, but it seems like your opinion was pretty honest and you definitely showed some of the flaws or less than perfect aspects of the machine. Will be interesting to see if your nozzle has any issues like The Real Sam Prentice just had. I also think it's funny that K1 tests so far have really ended up being marketing for Creality Hyper PLA, hahaha. I think this shows you are getting a lot for your money, but you are also getting what you pay for of course, not that that's automatically a bad thing. Good stuff!
Yeah I was always pretty skeptical of "High Speed" PLA, but I was surprised at how it worked. But I also don't mind printing a little slower to use some cool PLA colors
@@JJShankles Makes me wonder if the high speed PLA coming with machines like this and the Qidi are just lower melting temperature PLA that won't be as tough or strong or something. Would be interested to see some quality and strength tests vs other popular PLA. Hope to see some more TPU tests too. Strange it had such an issue.
The lightbar and the camera for the P1P is already included for the models they ship now. You can also order it for free if you bought one in the past.
The reason that the curvy wall printed well is that there is not a single corner! Make a similar print test with no curves and all corners, especially corners of less than 90 degrees and watch how you will get skipping and layer shifting!!! Fun, fun, fun
You can reprint things you've printed before, but just the last file sent to the P1P. If you go to files in the SD card menu, you just select "bb1.3mf" and it will print the last file produced.
I used it for a while, and it was a good experience. This printer is fantastic. It arrived well-packaged and was printing the demo files within minutes.
TPU needs to be printed slowly, and the 🌡has to be finetuned within few C. Retraction has to be kept to a min. and dialed spot-on, could easily strip filament to lose grip. Apart from this, the filament path needs to be very tight, with right amount of force on extrusion. Have done that with the world's most flex. filament(AtomStack 60A TPR)successfuly on a lulzbot mini with flexstruder!❤👍
Everyone loved the Ender 5S1, JJ didnt... I got the Ender 5S1 anyways had so many problems Creality ruled it defective and gave me my money back... Lots of lost sleep not needed had I just listened to JJ...
Given what I already own for printers... I will wait until this product is a bit more mature. It does seem like a good investment thought. Christmas deals should be worth the wait.
Carbon is very abrasive. I would suggesting getting a full rod and linear bearing set on hand to rebuild the Bambu when the time comes. Great printer, I purchased one but lets be realistic.
There isn’t a safety issue with a high voltage bed unless you are cutting the ground pin on your power cord. A fault will trip your breaker. This is no different than using a toaster or air fryer.
JJ, I can't speak directly to the P1P, but Bambu Slicer has had the ability to send sliced files to the printer for some time now. To do this on my X1C, the printer gets put in LAN only mode, and then so long as the printer and computer are on the same network, you can upload directly to the printer's SD card. Prints have to be manually started at the printer end, though, and the camera view is not available in LAN only mode, but it IS possible.
I'll need to look into that because I've had a lot of comments saying this. But it does sound like it has a few compromises to Klipper or this K1 where everything can just be managed and controlled locally.
Well, let me know if you need any help figuring it out. I've used it a couple times when the cloud service wasn't working. It can be tricky, but it does work.
What about linear advance and input shaping in the stock firmware? Is anything of this working inside K1? As I understand firmware in K1 is something more complex than marlin in Ender 3 printers?
It might be disengenious to list the P1P price as $700 here considering that you frequently mention that the main thing it has over the K1 is the AMS (which I believe costs signifyingly more, right?)
Maybe not a fair comparison, but not disengenious, what I got from it was that the AMS is that good that he forgets it costs 200-300 more or at the very leaste its convenient to ignore the extra cost its so worth it. Im sure there will be one made for the K1 eventually. Im sort of tired of manual filament swapping and thought the AMS was a gimic, but it sounds like it works pretty well and would definately look for that kind of system on my next printer. Nozzel swapping would be even better, dont like the idea of all the wasted purge plastic is my main issue with the system, but the convenience is definately appreciated as someone whos done 40 filament swaps on a 30 hour print.
Why would 24v bed be safer? The printer are ac… 24v give higher loads on the psu meaning that if they cheap out on the psu (which we all know they do, since a really good psu are expensive) it is a higher risk of fire then running it of ac power. Way less amperage on a ac bed compared to a dc bed. I have run booth type of beds for years. Doing either of them right are just as safe.
While you aren't wrong, getting shocked by 24v vs 220v is deffo a difference in safety, 24v you can lick some cables and maybe be fine 220v you won't be at all, and while yea the psu can be overloaded they could have also gotten a dog shit ssr and not grounded the bed properly in which case I'd want the thing to run at 24v so that I can just switch the psu if I wanted pure safety, also a good psu isn't that expensive a meanwell 350 is still like 35 40 quid
Yes they both can be safe if done correctly. I've just seen some poorly installed ones without extra grounding, or the bed cables don't have strain relief so they could wear through or come loose after a lot of printing
@@mashiori9020 it is more then enough for them not to include it. So saying that a good psu are cheap are not valid tbh. Cause it’s expensive enough that they don’t ship it with one. Saving 15$ on 10000 printers are a lot.
Seriously reduced usability though, they still need to do a lot of work on a totally off line offering before their printers can even be considered to work on commercial projects. Their privacy policy is also terrible.
I’ll never buy another creality product. I’ve yet to get a printer that didn’t have major problems. Warped rails, wobbly wheels. Every creality has cost me 2x in upgrades just to get it printing half way decent
Yuo need to test the retraction limits of the extrusor , thats yuo limit in a complex print and the plastic yuo use , some plastics can be cooled making super speed a no go
Just keep in mind it JUST released so you might want to wait a couple weeks to see if any common problems are popping up. As long as you're willing to learn to fix small issues though it shouldn't be a big deal.
Can you transfer the file with Wi-Fi? Can you talk about the App on the phone please? One reviewer said you have to what loads of adds, and also bekomme a lot of notifications with adds.
Yes the files can be directly uploaded to the printer from a computer over wifi. It doesn't use any cloud servers like some other companies like to use. The App does have ads on it to try to get you to upgrade to the premium version that includes a lot of paid 3d models. I don't use the app because I just use the desktop Slicer and it has everything I need to control the printer.
You lose features though such as the camera no longer works and you can't monitor the printer. For me Bambu being cloud oriented is a none starter especially when you read their privacy policy, no way should their printers ever be used for commercial work.
Definitely more likable than half finished panelless p1p, Im getting k1 max sometime this year. Great work Creality, hope you give us way to flash stock klipper
@@TheNature101 everything is garbage when you don't know how to use it, they should be a warning on a box, zero technical knowledge = skip it, buy something idiot proof
The first decent review of this printer, thanks for your review do you have direct full access to klipper and can you change its config files? what is the size and threads of the nozzles? can you screw normal volcano nozzles? is the parts cooling fan sufficient for high speed printing? i mean 200 - 600 mm/sec what is the thickness of the printing bed and did you noticed any warping? are the x steel rods using bushings or bearings?
Steel rods. I'm glad I cancelled my order. A huge reason why I like the carbon rods is you don't have to grease bearings. The Bambulabs uses brass bushings with graphite impregnation. Dry lube! Also, the steel rods are heavy and are likely causing the skipping on the high speed benchy.
Thanks for the great review... P.S.: If you did some actual multicolor printing on the AMS, you wouldn't love it so much anymore! ;-) 2 minutes for a filament swap is simply ridiculous, and you need to do that up to THREE times on every single layer! So if you have a 10cm object in 0.2mm layers with 4 colors over the full height, it spends 2 days and 2 hours simply just swapping filament!
Great review. The Design reminds me of Flashforge printers (and bambu of course but Flashforge has been around for long) Have you ever reviewed Elegoo machines? They are better known for resin but their FDM printers are very affordable and great quality
I have had it for 3 days. 4 prints and nothing but clogging. I want to replace the whole hotend/carriage. Not sure if I'll need to replace the board, if so, screen as well I guess.
hi JJ, thanks for the nice video. does the K1 support M0 or M600 pause commands? relevant for the "Pause at Layer" or similar options in various slicers. also what nozzle type is used ?
Applause to you. The most satisfying, full of really helpful informations to choose what's your next printer going to be. I was going to change my mind about K1 and go for bambulab... After you showcase bambulab as well changed my mind back to k1... K1 max hopefully... Few upgrades and you have the perfect printer with the best price Really amazing review.
Thank you so much, so glad it helped. Haha it is really hard to pick between them! And I think the K1 Max will have a few extra features to it, and I do think things could change a lot with a few more firmware updates to the K1 series
It looks like he had something on the bed when he was talking about it. There was a some coating in the center Edit: looks like glue stick on there if I had to guess and iirc another reviewer mentioned that Creality recommend glue stick for some materials.
I think it is a standard nozzle threading, but it is a slightly weird length that Creality has been using on other printers. It should be easy for Bontech or other companies to start making nozzles this long if it becomes popular
im curious what the web UI is like im currently using sonic pad is it simlar to klipper? also the creality site says it has ethernet were is that situated on the printer ?
So much vfa. Also artifacts on that scraper are just ringing meaning their speed and acceleration values are to high, inputshaping can’t fix everything.
I would have liked to see some comparison prints between the two. I think the K1 has issues and isn’t fully baked. I think the P1P appears more polished.
I churn out awful prints using a 0.8mm nozzle on my ender 3 pro. All these fast printers produce gorgeous results in comparison. I don't really need nice esthetics... and I'm cheap and impatient ;)
If it was as good and easy to use as the Bambu box, then it would be close for me. But that would be really hard to make one as good as the AMS, in terms of ease of use
That's an interesting question. This does have a lot of the controls and features of the Sonic Pad built in already, but it might be possible in the future with some tinkering
@@JJShankles i really hope so. I like the fact that after slicing with cura you just send it to the sonic pad. No creality cloud stuff. Simple. And its fast too.
That 600 mm a second test print came out so well because it has no sharp corners. It's very specifically designed to reduce acceleration as much as possible so there's no chance for artifacting or ringing. Anytime you introduce sharp corners anywhere it's going to create much more opportunity for these things to happen. The reality is though that pretty much any actual model is going to have sharp corners so whereas the built-in 600 mm per second print is fun to see it's not indicative of any sort of practically attainable results at those speeds.
how about printing corners as single lines and the extruder makes a curve at the corner like an 8, where the corner is the center intersection, this would eliminate ringing without needing imput shaping, there is more time for accelleration in the curve where the extrusion is stopped
That kind of just goes for most benchmark prints of that kind, definitely does not reflect real world performance. It's impressive considering it's creality nonetheless.
I understood the 600 mm/sec sample part trick that Creality did, but when using CAD to design my parts, I try to consider all aspects of the 3D printing manufacturing and I optimize the geometry to make the best 3D printed parts. That definitely includes fillets on corners in the XY plane when possible to make it as easy as possible on the trajectory planner. These new coreXY printers have a couple of nice tricks to improve high speed print quality including accelerometers to detect and correct motion errors, but it still helps to design parts that don't have inherent problems with very high accel/decel rates.
It's kinda like a car, you never go your cars max speed, but the faster the car the better the handling at normal speeds.
If your max speed is 600mm/s you'll print better at 60mm/s than a printer with a max speed of 80mm/s.
Voron inspired Bambu Labs, Bambu Labs inspired Creality. I love it.
I'm waiting for fast prints.
JJ, great vid. Been very anxious to see this printer. Great overview and I can't wait to see how they tune it and make it better. Knowing Creality and the open source nature of the Ender series, I hope the community is given the opportunity and can mod the K1 similarly for sound, print settings, etc.
Totally agree. A lot of the parts on here seem common and swappable, and the community around ender tunes and profiles are amazing
There are two different options for offline printing on the BL printers. You can choose lan only mode and then print from the slicer directly to the printer or you can just take the SD card out put the file on it stick it back in the printer and print it from there just like on any old printer. Your last file printed is the plate1.gcode file on the SD card so you can at least reprint the last one you sent to it through the cloud or local lan.
You can also just change the Print button to Send, and send your file to the printer locally without the cloud even without turning on LAN mode. However, it doesn't start the print. It just puts the file on the printer for you to choose from the screen
@@technicallyreal I love using the send mode for plates I need to print a few times. I’m already going to be at the printer anyways to clean the build plate, so it saves time provided that the sliced file doesn’t have an issue.
The speed test squiggle model has no corners, so keeping the speed and quality is easy. I'd like to see it printed at the limit of a V6 hot end on a Marlin based machine.
P1P has a LAN only mode these days so the uploading to the cloud is not necessary.
You can also put it on an SD card just like you would for the k1 (except SD card instead of USB drive)
Nice review. This felt a lot more thorough than the other videos already availale about it. Interestingly that first layer was also an issue on the k1's other people got. So that might be an issue with all of them.
For those that wonder, like me: The vase is Dodecananas vase on printables! ;-)
It's kind of funny with the MK4 upgrade.. it's almost more wasteful than buying a new machine. You need to replace up to 90% of your MK3S parts. So up to 90% of a printer sits in pieces and might get thrown out, vs buying a whole MK4 and having a whole functional MK3S leftover for someone else to keep using.
I'd really like to see some info about the P1P, X1C, Mk4, and K1 printing their 'best' at whatever speed that ends up being. Its all well and good to crush it for speed, but when I'm actually printing, I want a 100% success rate with a great quality print as fast as possible but no faster.. finding that happy medium with various filaments is obviously a bit of work, but pick a few 'normal' filaments and compare if you could!?!?
This is the best review so far for sure. Really shows what taking a little extra time can do. Not really trying to knock anyone else, but it seems like your opinion was pretty honest and you definitely showed some of the flaws or less than perfect aspects of the machine. Will be interesting to see if your nozzle has any issues like The Real Sam Prentice just had. I also think it's funny that K1 tests so far have really ended up being marketing for Creality Hyper PLA, hahaha. I think this shows you are getting a lot for your money, but you are also getting what you pay for of course, not that that's automatically a bad thing. Good stuff!
Yeah I was always pretty skeptical of "High Speed" PLA, but I was surprised at how it worked. But I also don't mind printing a little slower to use some cool PLA colors
@@JJShankles Makes me wonder if the high speed PLA coming with machines like this and the Qidi are just lower melting temperature PLA that won't be as tough or strong or something. Would be interested to see some quality and strength tests vs other popular PLA. Hope to see some more TPU tests too. Strange it had such an issue.
I am happy for you that your channel grew that good already. You derserve it.
Why not print in K1 and P1P in same time?
finally a decent K1 review, the other youtubers have been releasing serious garbage
Agree
The lightbar and the camera for the P1P is already included for the models they ship now. You can also order it for free if you bought one in the past.
The reason that the curvy wall printed well is that there is not a single corner!
Make a similar print test with no curves and all corners, especially corners of less than 90 degrees and watch how you will get skipping and layer shifting!!!
Fun, fun, fun
You can reprint things you've printed before, but just the last file sent to the P1P. If you go to files in the SD card menu, you just select "bb1.3mf" and it will print the last file produced.
There’s also the “Send” mode and LAN mode that you can enable. I’ve got poor internet at times so I try to keep everything local just to speed it up.
Great comparison 👌
But there is one thing: you can activate the local mode for the p1p. In this way you don’t need the cloud anymore.
They need to hire Chep to create them awesome profiles
So true!
Awesome video! I have been so excited about this printer. Thank you for the video and review.
I never used cloud in p1p. Only lan mod. Uploaded very fast. Every day printing.... Never have a problem with the printer.
Yep you don't need the cloud to print.
The door gap could an air inlet, otherwise the back fan would nothing to pump out
If the Bambu cloud service goes down you can print through the LAN option which is just as easy.
My printer shipped!
So glad I watched this! I was super interested in this, but I have to keep it in the corner of a room so the volume would be too much for me
Hi, JJ. May I ask how to use K1 to print a temperature tower. I tried to slice on cura for my Ender3 s1 pro, but I couldn't find parameters for K1..
I used it for a while, and it was a good experience. This printer is fantastic. It arrived well-packaged and was printing the demo files within minutes.
I’m thinking about getting it for Christmas as my first 3d printer, would you recommend it?
Nice overview JJ. Looking forward to getting mine and comparing the prints directly with the P1P
the video is awesome, great reviews, definitely wanna get a creality K1 after watching this!
Could you explain why is DC heated bed safer than AC? Because 24V AC is completely safe to touch with bare hands.
Ac heated bed is used to describe an bed directly powered by mains 120/230V voltage.
TPU needs to be printed slowly, and the 🌡has to be finetuned within few C. Retraction has to be kept to a min. and dialed spot-on, could easily strip filament to lose grip. Apart from this, the filament path needs to be very tight, with right amount of force on extrusion. Have done that with the world's most flex. filament(AtomStack 60A TPR)successfuly on a lulzbot mini with flexstruder!❤👍
I love this review format!
Everyone loved the Ender 5S1, JJ didnt... I got the Ender 5S1 anyways had so many problems Creality ruled it defective and gave me my money back... Lots of lost sleep not needed had I just listened to JJ...
Check out the Ender 5 review by The Real Sam Prentice and you'll probably feel validated.
Given what I already own for printers... I will wait until this product is a bit more mature. It does seem like a good investment thought. Christmas deals should be worth the wait.
Carbon is very abrasive. I would suggesting getting a full rod and linear bearing set on hand to rebuild the Bambu when the time comes. Great printer, I purchased one but lets be realistic.
There isn’t a safety issue with a high voltage bed unless you are cutting the ground pin on your power cord. A fault will trip your breaker. This is no different than using a toaster or air fryer.
the only way i could get my p1p to print tpu is setting it to 245c and running at 50% speed
As much as I hate marketing hyperbole, if it "can print 600mm/sec in certain situations", I feel like the marketing is spot on.
JJ, I can't speak directly to the P1P, but Bambu Slicer has had the ability to send sliced files to the printer for some time now. To do this on my X1C, the printer gets put in LAN only mode, and then so long as the printer and computer are on the same network, you can upload directly to the printer's SD card. Prints have to be manually started at the printer end, though, and the camera view is not available in LAN only mode, but it IS possible.
I'll need to look into that because I've had a lot of comments saying this. But it does sound like it has a few compromises to Klipper or this K1 where everything can just be managed and controlled locally.
Well, let me know if you need any help figuring it out. I've used it a couple times when the cloud service wasn't working. It can be tricky, but it does work.
The awkward moment when the whole K1 is cheaper than the MK4 upgrade kit
Great Video!!! I truly enjoyed this review.
What about linear advance and input shaping in the stock firmware? Is anything of this working inside K1? As I understand firmware in K1 is something more complex than marlin in Ender 3 printers?
I want to see a multi-filament printer from Creality.
It might be disengenious to list the P1P price as $700 here considering that you frequently mention that the main thing it has over the K1 is the AMS (which I believe costs signifyingly more, right?)
Maybe not a fair comparison, but not disengenious, what I got from it was that the AMS is that good that he forgets it costs 200-300 more or at the very leaste its convenient to ignore the extra cost its so worth it. Im sure there will be one made for the K1 eventually. Im sort of tired of manual filament swapping and thought the AMS was a gimic, but it sounds like it works pretty well and would definately look for that kind of system on my next printer. Nozzel swapping would be even better, dont like the idea of all the wasted purge plastic is my main issue with the system, but the convenience is definately appreciated as someone whos done 40 filament swaps on a 30 hour print.
need video test comparaison Prusa XL VS Bamboo Carbon
Why would 24v bed be safer? The printer are ac… 24v give higher loads on the psu meaning that if they cheap out on the psu (which we all know they do, since a really good psu are expensive) it is a higher risk of fire then running it of ac power. Way less amperage on a ac bed compared to a dc bed. I have run booth type of beds for years. Doing either of them right are just as safe.
I also run AC, and add extra grounding
While you aren't wrong, getting shocked by 24v vs 220v is deffo a difference in safety, 24v you can lick some cables and maybe be fine 220v you won't be at all, and while yea the psu can be overloaded they could have also gotten a dog shit ssr and not grounded the bed properly in which case I'd want the thing to run at 24v so that I can just switch the psu if I wanted pure safety, also a good psu isn't that expensive a meanwell 350 is still like 35 40 quid
Yes they both can be safe if done correctly. I've just seen some poorly installed ones without extra grounding, or the bed cables don't have strain relief so they could wear through or come loose after a lot of printing
@@mashiori9020 it is more then enough for them not to include it. So saying that a good psu are cheap are not valid tbh. Cause it’s expensive enough that they don’t ship it with one. Saving 15$ on 10000 printers are a lot.
Ein sehr interessantes Gerät, das ich gekauft habe und auf das ich noch warte.
I'm leaning towards the p1p now
Misleading. Bambu Lab printers have SD cards so you can still print like any other printer.
You fr=orgot about Qidi new printers? they are in same price range too, X-Plus 3 have some issues, but they will realease updated version next month.
I think they are going to send me one of their updated ones, so I will be able to compare them all then
A bit of clarification needed for Bambu, the machines have had local control for a few updates now, no internet required
Seriously reduced usability though, they still need to do a lot of work on a totally off line offering before their printers can even be considered to work on commercial projects. Their privacy policy is also terrible.
I’ll never buy another creality product. I’ve yet to get a printer that didn’t have major problems. Warped rails, wobbly wheels. Every creality has cost me 2x in upgrades just to get it printing half way decent
“I don’t know how they did it…” 🤔
Bambu > copy/paste 😇
😯 neat .well I would love it if you would review Voxelab Aquila X3 FDM 3D Printer.
I’m getting the max and plan to add a buildplate from cr10 pro v2, as its the best buildplate they have made imo.
I preordered specifically for TPU prints 😩 would you be able to do a follow up??
I ordered some fresh TPU, I'll follow up
Yuo need to test the retraction limits of the extrusor , thats yuo limit in a complex print and the plastic yuo use , some plastics can be cooled making super speed a no go
Would u recommend as a first printer?
Yes, it was super easy to get setup and working. I think a beginner would have a good time with it.
Just keep in mind it JUST released so you might want to wait a couple weeks to see if any common problems are popping up. As long as you're willing to learn to fix small issues though it shouldn't be a big deal.
This is a breakthrough for creality. I hope their products will do better and give me more choices😏
Can you transfer the file with Wi-Fi? Can you talk about the App on the phone please? One reviewer said you have to what loads of adds, and also bekomme a lot of notifications with adds.
Yes the files can be directly uploaded to the printer from a computer over wifi. It doesn't use any cloud servers like some other companies like to use. The App does have ads on it to try to get you to upgrade to the premium version that includes a lot of paid 3d models. I don't use the app because I just use the desktop Slicer and it has everything I need to control the printer.
Bambulab now has "LAN only mode", so connection to internet requirement is no longer an issue.
You lose features though such as the camera no longer works and you can't monitor the printer. For me Bambu being cloud oriented is a none starter especially when you read their privacy policy, no way should their printers ever be used for commercial work.
Definitely more likable than half finished panelless p1p, Im getting k1 max sometime this year. Great work Creality, hope you give us way to flash stock klipper
Another garbage Creality printer with sub-par quality ready to die in the landfill....
@@TheNature101 everything is garbage when you don't know how to use it, they should be a warning on a box, zero technical knowledge = skip it, buy something idiot proof
@@TheNature101 Just like bambu lab printers.
So creality has input shaping before Prusa??? Huh
I really missed a 1 to 1 comparison with the same speeds same filament and same model in 3 most popular filaments
That's a great idea. I'll do a follow up when I can get more testing printed out
The first decent review of this printer, thanks for your review
do you have direct full access to klipper and can you change its config files?
what is the size and threads of the nozzles? can you screw normal volcano nozzles?
is the parts cooling fan sufficient for high speed printing? i mean 200 - 600 mm/sec
what is the thickness of the printing bed and did you noticed any warping?
are the x steel rods using bushings or bearings?
I have the Sermoon D1, and the chrome steel rails it has have not even shown a scratch.
What filament and where did you get that vase stl?? That was beautiful!
Hmmm. Doesn't look bad at all but for the price i think I'll just build a voron instead
Steel rods. I'm glad I cancelled my order. A huge reason why I like the carbon rods is you don't have to grease bearings. The Bambulabs uses brass bushings with graphite impregnation. Dry lube! Also, the steel rods are heavy and are likely causing the skipping on the high speed benchy.
Hello, would you also make a video with the exchange of the Hotend? I am interested in how it is structurally solved.
Thanks for the great review... P.S.: If you did some actual multicolor printing on the AMS, you wouldn't love it so much anymore! ;-) 2 minutes for a filament swap is simply ridiculous, and you need to do that up to THREE times on every single layer! So if you have a 10cm object in 0.2mm layers with 4 colors over the full height, it spends 2 days and 2 hours simply just swapping filament!
Awesome solid review !!!
Thank you so much!
Software update removed the artifacts on my k1 by the way.
Can you get a plate to be able to print Carbon Fiber Nylon?
What nozzle does it take?
Great review. The Design reminds me of Flashforge printers (and bambu of course but Flashforge has been around for long)
Have you ever reviewed Elegoo machines? They are better known for resin but their FDM printers are very affordable and great quality
I have had it for 3 days. 4 prints and nothing but clogging. I want to replace the whole hotend/carriage. Not sure if I'll need to replace the board, if so, screen as well I guess.
Could you post a link to the vase you showed us?
It's this one here: www.printables.com/model/120738-dodecananas-vase
What is extruder max temperature? This printer looks really nice, but I would like to buy max version. It is quite cheap.
The all metal hotend is good for up to 300C
seeing the artifacts, it'd be nice if you could do some testing for VFA's
hi JJ, thanks for the nice video. does the K1 support M0 or M600 pause commands? relevant for the "Pause at Layer" or similar options in various slicers. also what nozzle type is used ?
30 min for a benchy? what kind of a benchy you guys print??
I can do one with my i3 mega in 46 min so what goes?
there is a 600 euro diverens in printers if i want a p1p its wil cost me 1100 in the netherlands k1 is only 600
Dang that's crazy. The P1P is not worth that much!
Thanks for a great review. Could you review the Proforge 4?
Can you change the K1 firmware to klipper?
Any plans reviewing the Kingroon KLP1? Looks like the race to the bottom has begun.
Applause to you.
The most satisfying, full of really helpful informations to choose what's your next printer going to be.
I was going to change my mind about K1 and go for bambulab... After you showcase bambulab as well changed my mind back to k1... K1 max hopefully... Few upgrades and you have the perfect printer with the best price
Really amazing review.
Thank you so much, so glad it helped. Haha it is really hard to pick between them! And I think the K1 Max will have a few extra features to it, and I do think things could change a lot with a few more firmware updates to the K1 series
idk why i even need a 3d printer but i want one
Did you use any bed adhesives (glue,spray or anything)
It looks like he had something on the bed when he was talking about it. There was a some coating in the center
Edit: looks like glue stick on there if I had to guess and iirc another reviewer mentioned that Creality recommend glue stick for some materials.
Yes, this bed says it needs glue stick
Hey what about the nozzle diameter and can we change the nozzle? I've seen no one talk about it so far
I think it is a standard nozzle threading, but it is a slightly weird length that Creality has been using on other printers. It should be easy for Bontech or other companies to start making nozzles this long if it becomes popular
Any issues with it? Can you push it a little bit with longer prints from original usb?
im curious what the web UI is like im currently using sonic pad is it simlar to klipper? also the creality site says it has ethernet were is that situated on the printer ?
When you say default printing profile for TPU, do you mean a default TPU profile, or did you try and use a PLA profile with TPU…
So much vfa. Also artifacts on that scraper are just ringing meaning their speed and acceleration values are to high, inputshaping can’t fix everything.
Is it worth waiting for the Max version?
I would have liked to see some comparison prints between the two. I think the K1 has issues and isn’t fully baked. I think the P1P appears more polished.
I churn out awful prints using a 0.8mm nozzle on my ender 3 pro. All these fast printers produce gorgeous results in comparison.
I don't really need nice esthetics... and I'm cheap and impatient ;)
Umm how about video of it printing ….. what speeds you printed at etc.
So basically if creality built a filament change box like the bamboo labs this would be hands down the winner.
If it was as good and easy to use as the Bambu box, then it would be close for me. But that would be really hard to make one as good as the AMS, in terms of ease of use
K1 max has that coming
Thank you for the video. Do you know if it work with the creality sonic pad ??
That's an interesting question. This does have a lot of the controls and features of the Sonic Pad built in already, but it might be possible in the future with some tinkering
@@JJShankles i really hope so. I like the fact that after slicing with cura you just send it to the sonic pad. No creality cloud stuff. Simple. And its fast too.