I have a 1969 C10 (Short bed, step side) with the same motor, and a monojet carb that is on its last leg. I just bought the same carb as you, off ebay. Searched for a video, and this came up! Thank you for making it. It was very informative, as I try to keep this ole inline 6 alive.
Great video man. Very helpful I have a question for you if you have time, so I have a 74 Chevelle with the in-line 6, it starts right up and it idles great. However after I drive a few miles, it has a dead miss at idle for about 3-5 minutes and then it clears up after that, any ideas?
Good to see old green getting as new mouthpiece, I got to get old Gerty a new Rochester quadrajet it took a turn for the worse in Oklahoma last summer on route 66 but got us home lol love me some chevy straight 6 have a good one!!
Terrill Cody That's the good thing about a carburetor. Even if it's messed up you can tinker around with it and make it run good enough to get you home. Can't do that with fuel injection.
I just got a 1967 Ford f100 4.9 short bed I ordered a carb should be here in a week. I’ve never messed with carburetors before but I feel after watching your video I shouldn’t have any problems
Hi, I have a question. Most the time an automatic choke hooks to a thermostatic switch on the manifold to control it. When you just hot wire it right to key on 12 volts don't the choke just stay on? thanks
have a 1979 f100 ford pickup. I replace 1 barrel carburetor w a new gasket. Have a leak under the left side of the carburetor. Do I need a different gasket or what is the problem? I appreciate your information to correct the problem>
searching now 10 years for a replacement carb for my straight 6 chevy and found this ALAVENTE 1 BARREL Carburetor Carb - only found some used ones that are not in good shape. Hope the new one will work also the electric choke :-)
@@lukeFugate do you connnect the vaccuum gauge to the ignition distr. output ? and where can i adjust the cold idle speed - did not found a special screw for it ?
I know this video is dated but I am curious if anyone thinks this would work on a 1964 c-10 with the 230 L6 or would it technically be too big? The truck runs but seems pretty rough and I would like to ditch the manual choke if I am going to replace the carb. Considering doing the HEI upgrade as well while giving it an all over tune-up. Thanks!
It should work fine. May have to adjust the metering rod to get it just right. The carb is still going strong on my truck now. Definitely can't go wrong with the HEI distributor too. I don't miss points at all!
Let me ask this my carb sounds wird like chopy sound an to me sounds like either a lope or high idle ive tryed ajusting fast idle an reg air an fuel mixture barley any changes idk if its the headers i put on or what but i can post a vid of it
How did you install the linkage at 14:02 I am having trouble taking mine off. Looks like there is a clamp. But I saw you just pop it off and pop it back in
If it is made like mine it should pop off by prying it a little with a screw driver. If it has been on there for many years it could be rusted on and possibly could break the spring clip. It would be a good idea to spray it with wd 40 before prying it.
Your float is probably stuck. You can remove the top plate of the carb and check that it moves freely. If you are running an electric fuel pump that puts out too much pressure the needle valve can't seal off high pressures.
@@lukeFugate I liked and subbed and clicked bell ! Im a new comer to mechanics and have a 1962 chevy C/10 short bed fleet side inline 6, no gas tank, no battery has an HEI distributor, i bought new plugs n wires... If you guys were me what would yall do next to get the engine running and thanks ! Can someone please do a video on wiring and how to turn the distributor? The firing order was easy, it was on the exhause manifold, lol but im kinda stuck from here :( Help plz ty :D
Mine is spewing fuel out of the top tube above the fuel line. I chrcked the float and it is moving freely and I don't have a electric fuel pump. Could it be something else?
@@lukeFugate apparently I opened it back up and the needle valve was wedged under the float. I tried reseating it and the needle did not move at all. I have since sent the old one back and have got a new one. I will update you soon. By the way I have the same truck but she's gold!
confused on this carb you bought and the carb you are pulling off. the carb on this 67 the fuel inlet is facing the valve cover and what you pulled off at the bottom to be a vacum line on this setup is also in between the manifold and cylinder head /valve cover an looks to be the fuel return line. i will have to relook tomorrow inorder to confirm. obviously this carb doesnt have the 2 top vacume lines and electric style choke. still wondering how to get one of these carbs to work.
The bottom is a vacuum line and there is no fuel return on the one I got. Mine did come with the electric choke. It is working well now. I had to adjust the metering rod by trial and error until it started running correctly.
Ahhh okay I see what it's for now. Well I ended up going with a henkyo Carburetor exact cone of the older style manual choke carb. It was 190 but worth it very good quality carb. They are a high end chinese carb company. Anyways thanks for the info and help hopefully you have a wonderful Christmas buddy!
I dont think they have any left. I'll have to look and it's on a 250. I got it set up and working just fine now. Have to rebuild the front end before I can actually test it out and make sure it's not running to rich or to lean.
I have a 76 c10 with a 250 in it. Can’t figure out how to run the wiring for the thermostat. Anyone know anything please help. Or reply with a link. I can’t find anything. Thanks I’m advance.
Are you talking about the wire for the automatic choke thermostat? If so, it is just a hot wire that turns on with the key. I ran a wire from the fuse panel up to the carb. Just have to make sure it is fused.
@@lukeFugate thanks man. But I mean from the thermostat to the gauge. Wire is cut at thermostat i don’t see the rest anywhere and nothing is attached gauge side. Probably gonna just install digital gauges.
@@mikeneff832 the original wire should be coming from the wiring harness that runs to the distributor. It was in the same bundle of wires I can't remember the color though and I changed the end of the wire so it is buried under the tape I put on. A digital gauge would be more accurate anyway.
@@lukeFugate it plugs in directly to the thermostat I’m not that great with older cars but I love them and am slowly learning thanks for the help my guy
Yep, now is the time to do it. I might go ahead and pick up a gasket set and replace all of them I think my leak is actually coming out of the timing cover. It'll never be as easy to get to as it is now.
Авто/Мото
I have a 1969 C10 (Short bed, step side) with the same motor, and a monojet carb that is on its last leg. I just bought the same carb as you, off ebay. Searched for a video, and this came up! Thank you for making it. It was very informative, as I try to keep this ole inline 6 alive.
Glad to see you are trying to keep her alive. Too many people yank the 6 and put in a v8.
@@lukeFugate same here in germany 67 C10 stepside - inline 6 weill replace the carb in a few days to keep the engine alive
Pretty good video, thanks for all the information.
i have a 1967 chevy c10 with the 250 ci and the "three on the tree" it brings me joy to see others with these jems!
Not many left that haven't been swapped out with a V8. I like the old six.
there isnt a motor that will run as smooth as these 3rd gen stove bolts
Engine sounds great!!
Yeah, it runs a lot better. Hard to really try her out with so little weight. I can barely let out the clutch without spinning the tires!
Great video man. Very helpful I have a question for you if you have time, so I have a 74 Chevelle with the in-line 6,
it starts right up and it idles great.
However after I drive a few miles, it has a dead miss at idle for about 3-5 minutes and then it clears up after that, any ideas?
Thank you for showing how to get that carb tuned in! I am working on a 63 Chevy II and haven't gotten the engine dialed in quite yet.
Glad you liked it! Hope it helps.
Also have a 63 nova and this video is helpful!
Good to see old green getting as new mouthpiece, I got to get old Gerty a new Rochester quadrajet it took a turn for the worse in Oklahoma last summer on route 66 but got us home lol love me some chevy straight 6 have a good one!!
Terrill Cody That's the good thing about a carburetor. Even if it's messed up you can tinker around with it and make it run good enough to get you home. Can't do that with fuel injection.
Like got to love old engines easy to work on !!
I just got a 1967 Ford f100 4.9 short bed I ordered a carb should be here in a week. I’ve never messed with carburetors before but I feel after watching your video I shouldn’t have any problems
Hope it works for you. Mine is still going strong.
Thank you - was looking for info on how to adjust my 67 Rochester B one barrel.
Hope it helps you.
Hi, I have a question. Most the time an automatic choke hooks to a thermostatic switch on the manifold to control it. When you just hot wire it right to key on 12 volts don't the choke just stay on? thanks
have a 1979 f100 ford pickup. I replace 1 barrel carburetor w a new gasket. Have a leak under the left side of the carburetor. Do I need a different gasket or what is the problem? I appreciate your information to correct the problem>
Thanks much. Didn't know how to deal with the auto choke.
Glad it helped.
You're so handy, car puzzle man! (When I move into a van, can I stop by your house? haha).
George McVlog Sure! Come on by.
I have dual Rochester b carbs on my 54 235 Chevy truck, the mpg dropped 25% overnight. Any guesses of what I should check???
Did you have any loss of power? Is it smoking from the tail pipe, or missing?
searching now 10 years for a replacement carb for my straight 6 chevy and found this ALAVENTE 1 BARREL Carburetor Carb - only found some used ones that are not in good shape. Hope the new one will work also the electric choke :-)
Mine is still working well. I had to fool with the metering rod a little bit, but it has been great.
The electric choke is awesome!
@@lukeFugate do you connnect the vaccuum gauge to the ignition distr. output ? and where can i adjust the cold idle speed - did not found a special screw for it ?
Thank You
Hope it helps.
Where did you put the vacuum line and what did you use at the line?
The only vacuum line I can remember was for the vaccum advance.
I know this video is dated but I am curious if anyone thinks this would work on a 1964 c-10 with the 230 L6 or would it technically be too big? The truck runs but seems pretty rough and I would like to ditch the manual choke if I am going to replace the carb. Considering doing the HEI upgrade as well while giving it an all over tune-up. Thanks!
It should work fine. May have to adjust the metering rod to get it just right. The carb is still going strong on my truck now.
Definitely can't go wrong with the HEI distributor too. I don't miss points at all!
What was the brand name of the new carb.. Enjoyed the video. Thanks.
I got it from Amazon here is a link.
amzn.to/3zouK4L
It is still working fine today.
Let me ask this my carb sounds wird like chopy sound an to me sounds like either a lope or high idle ive tryed ajusting fast idle an reg air an fuel mixture barley any changes idk if its the headers i put on or what but i can post a vid of it
Could there be a vacuum leak? Check the gasket between the carb and the intake, and also any vacuum lines going to the carb.
luke Fugate hey thanks for the replay ill check it an see an let ya know i hope thats what it is
How did you install the linkage at 14:02 I am having trouble taking mine off. Looks like there is a clamp. But I saw you just pop it off and pop it back in
If it is made like mine it should pop off by prying it a little with a screw driver. If it has been on there for many years it could be rusted on and possibly could break the spring clip. It would be a good idea to spray it with wd 40 before prying it.
@@lukeFugate do you know what this clip is called incase it breaks?
My carb is spewing fuel from the small outlet directly above the fuel inlet. Do i need to install return line or something?
Your float is probably stuck. You can remove the top plate of the carb and check that it moves freely. If you are running an electric fuel pump that puts out too much pressure the needle valve can't seal off high pressures.
Was the float stuck? I have the same problem with mine and no electric pump.
did you get yours figured out? I’m having the same issue right now
Where did you buy it from? how much was it?
Great to see other I6's, keep them original.
It was from Amazon and about $100. It worked good after some tinkering around. I had to play with the metering rod after I got the truck on the road.
@@lukeFugate I liked and subbed and clicked bell ! Im a new comer to mechanics and have a 1962 chevy C/10 short bed fleet side inline 6, no gas tank, no battery has an HEI distributor, i bought new plugs n wires... If you guys were me what would yall do next to get the engine running and thanks ! Can someone please do a video on wiring and how to turn the distributor? The firing order was easy, it was on the exhause manifold, lol but im kinda stuck from here :( Help plz ty :D
I got One similar on eBay but never work for me, when I started was to fast, after adjustment I could't start the engine, it was too fast or too slow.
how much psi can this carburetor handle if speaking about an electric fuel pump?
I am using the original mechanical pump, but it should probably be limited to about 5 psi.
Howd you get that motor that quite thats crazy
I have two glass pack mufflers on her. It's not really as quiet as it sounds in the video. The cell phone Mic doesn't pick up very good.
How many turns have the iddle screw?
That is different for every engine. You have to adjust it for the right rpm for your engine. It is usually listed in the owners manual.
Mine is spewing fuel out of the top tube above the fuel line. I chrcked the float and it is moving freely and I don't have a electric fuel pump. Could it be something else?
Is the needle valve sealing up when the float goes up?
@@lukeFugate apparently I opened it back up and the needle valve was wedged under the float. I tried reseating it and the needle did not move at all. I have since sent the old one back and have got a new one. I will update you soon. By the way I have the same truck but she's gold!
@@jacobhroch7003 hope the new one works better for you.
@@jacobhroch7003did you get yours figured out? I’m having the same issue right now
confused on this carb you bought and the carb you are pulling off. the carb on this 67 the fuel inlet is facing the valve cover and what you pulled off at the bottom to be a vacum line on this setup is also in between the manifold and cylinder head /valve cover an looks to be the fuel return line. i will have to relook tomorrow inorder to confirm. obviously this carb doesnt have the 2 top vacume lines and electric style choke. still wondering how to get one of these carbs to work.
The bottom is a vacuum line and there is no fuel return on the one I got. Mine did come with the electric choke. It is working well now. I had to adjust the metering rod by trial and error until it started running correctly.
Ahhh okay I see what it's for now. Well I ended up going with a henkyo Carburetor exact cone of the older style manual choke carb. It was 190 but worth it very good quality carb. They are a high end chinese carb company. Anyways thanks for the info and help hopefully you have a wonderful Christmas buddy!
@@rncboy2 link to the carb? And what size moter did you set it on?
I dont think they have any left. I'll have to look and it's on a 250. I got it set up and working just fine now. Have to rebuild the front end before I can actually test it out and make sure it's not running to rich or to lean.
@@rncboy2 thank you for the timely response, keep me posted if you can find the carb.
We tried the carburetor and it was leaking from the idle rod
Sounds like the float was stuck. Might take it apart and see if it moves and the needle valve is seating.
I have a 76 c10 with a 250 in it. Can’t figure out how to run the wiring for the thermostat. Anyone know anything please help. Or reply with a link. I can’t find anything. Thanks I’m advance.
Are you talking about the wire for the automatic choke thermostat? If so, it is just a hot wire that turns on with the key. I ran a wire from the fuse panel up to the carb. Just have to make sure it is fused.
@@lukeFugate thanks man. But I mean from the thermostat to the gauge. Wire is cut at thermostat i don’t see the rest anywhere and nothing is attached gauge side. Probably gonna just install digital gauges.
@@mikeneff832 the original wire should be coming from the wiring harness that runs to the distributor. It was in the same bundle of wires I can't remember the color though and I changed the end of the wire so it is buried under the tape I put on. A digital gauge would be more accurate anyway.
@@lukeFugate it plugs in directly to the thermostat I’m not that great with older cars but I love them and am slowly learning thanks for the help my guy
Get yourself a new intake gasket and fuel filter on Ol'green while your at it... will be trouble free for years !
Yep, now is the time to do it. I might go ahead and pick up a gasket set and replace all of them I think my leak is actually coming out of the timing cover. It'll never be as easy to get to as it is now.
This is one of the Chinese knock-off Rochester MV carbs on Amazon?
Yes it is. I had my doubts when I got it but it has proven itself since. No problems so far.