Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-6-re-sealing-the-final-drive.html
I'm taking my engine apart final drive transmission everything right now for the first time. I can't tell you how much this helps on top of the Blue book and the clymer manual with flatracer tools 👏👏👏 The pop can solution to that was genius. You're doing God's work man thank you 🎉 I have this exact make and model early 75.
I am trying to restore my fathers 1975 BMW r90s. My father passed away a few months ago so I'm more determined then ever. The bike sat outside, under a rotting tarp for 35 years and I'm doing a frame up restoration. William is great at showing me how to do different things that under normal circumstances, even with a Clymer manuel, I wouldn't attempt to do. I wish I had Williams patients and his tool's!.
Always a pleasure to watch you work your explanations are clear and precise. I like the use of the correct tools to carry out the tasks. Please keep them coming I would like to see more of your work on the older BMWs.
By the way, I called Boxer 2 valve a year or two ago with some questions. A week or two later, I got a call from William. He was in Germany but because he is such a nice and dedicated man, he called from Germany to answer my questions.
absolutely loved the soda can trick! So entertaining watching and listen to you work. I have a 90/6 '74 that needs to be getting back on the road. You inspire me.
At this point in the set of videos I know this read drive seal replacement task is beyond my skill and tool sets. This video will be a great guide to be prepared for a Tech day. Thank you for doing this.
so plain, so clear... as you go along I have googled the tools -- amazing how reasonably priced needed tools can be bought -- lov the old school thinking of using a soda can -- great videos.
for all the videos, some of the best instruction ever. There are just two or three folks I would let work on my bike. Me, man in videos and my friend Cory Beach. Bravo sir, excellent work!
All the special tools together probably out value a decent condition complete air head. One large part of being a mechanic for many makes is the ability to improvise.
Hi William, Excellent videos with clear and concise explanations and great detail camera angles. I enjoy your use of mixing proper and shop made tools to get the job done, and of course your knowledge and use of tricks and tips. Quick question for you or your viewers; I have a 1995 r100 GSPD, and found oil dripping from the final drive. Not much but enough to get my attention. I took the rear wheel off, exposing the final drive seal, which did show a small leak. The seal was sitting proud about 1mm or less. I thought if the seal was not installed properly it could leak so I tapped it in a little bit more about another 1.5 mm. The question is, was it sitting properly and just a bad seal needing replacement or did I tap a bad seal in to far? Thanks again. Petr
Great video! Mine is getting fluid transfer from the drive shaft to final drive and needs this done. After watching this I think I'll pay someone to do it ;)
maybe it wasnt allowed, but i posted that performance tool w1270 will work fine to get the slotted nut off the output shaft if you cut off 4 of the ears and its 10 bucks if you do a quick search
Love these Videos! I have these tools that I bought at dealer auction back in the 80's. I never knew what they fit. I have a rear end (37/11)from a '74 r60/6. (my 1st Beemer). Splines are 40%. Can you give me an Idea what a rebuilt drive would fetch and the cost of parts. I can do the disassembly and reassembly. Thank you again
I noticed that you use a heat gun to expand the rear drive to remove and put the bearing back in. Is there a particular reason you use a heat gun.... and not say a Map Gas torch? Would not a Map gas torch get the job done faster? Or do you use the heat gun to keep from using too much heat? Just curious.
We use the heat gun because it applies an even and relatively low heat. We don't want to exceed 100C. Also I have not tried a MAPP torch, so that might be better yet.
Torches are very agressive and can warp things. Also they can melt and deform the seals. Faster is not always better. I was taught only with a heat gun, also you could say it's safer and you're not taking that much longer...
I am re-watching your videos, and it has been nice to hear you when saying“PERFECTO”!!. I am Spanish (&50% Danish), that’s it! (MOTOWERKE at Instagram).
Hi, the 1985 final drive is entirely different. It does not have weep holes. We will actually be taking one apart pretty soon. Check out our new series of videos about the R80RT. The final drive repair will be uploaded late October or early November 2019.
Q: is it possible to only replace the ring gear seals and gasket (not the piñon seal) while the final drive is still in the bike or must it be removed ? Thank you for all the great info !
I see you are using an electric heat gun..... Is there a reason you are NOT using say a MAPP gas torch? Would this not heat the metal up faster (allowing the outside to expand quicker than the heat could get to the inside)... and let the bearings fall out faster? OR do you not do this for a reason? Not complaining ... just wondering from your experience...
We use the heat gun because it applies an even and relatively low heat. We don't want to exceed 100C. Also I have not tried a MAPP torch, so that might be better yet.
Excellent video William, thanks from across the pond. I've lost count on how many times I have viewed and reviewed. I'm just about to re-assemble and have found some lateral movement in the drive shaft pinion bearing (33121230247) on my 82 R100. Any tips on how I can removereplace it?
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-6-re-sealing-the-final-drive.html
I'm taking my engine apart final drive transmission everything right now for the first time. I can't tell you how much this helps on top of the Blue book and the clymer manual with flatracer tools 👏👏👏 The pop can solution to that was genius. You're doing God's work man thank you 🎉 I have this exact make and model early 75.
also...this series of BMW videos is so helpful. thanks for making them!
I am trying to restore my fathers 1975 BMW r90s. My father passed away a few months ago so I'm more determined then ever. The bike sat outside, under a rotting tarp for 35 years and I'm doing a frame up restoration. William is great at showing me how to do different things that under normal circumstances, even with a Clymer manuel, I wouldn't attempt to do. I wish I had Williams patients and his tool's!.
Hey Joe, Best of luck with your project! Your father would be so proud, I know!
@@boxer2valve Thanks again!
Always a pleasure to watch you work your explanations are clear and precise. I like the use of the correct tools to carry out the tasks. Please keep them coming I would like to see more of your work on the older BMWs.
By the way, I called Boxer 2 valve a year or two ago with some questions. A week or two later, I got a call from William. He was in Germany but because he is such a nice and dedicated man, he called from Germany to answer my questions.
Hey Joe, Thanks for the comment. We will help whenever possible. Doesn't matter where we are. Cheers!
@@boxer2valve Thank you!
absolutely loved the soda can trick! So entertaining watching and listen to you work. I have a 90/6 '74 that needs to be getting back on the road. You inspire me.
LOVE THE BEER CAN TRICK...NICE VIBE, MAN !..Thanks
Brilliant channel. Thanks for posting these videos. They've been invaluable on my project.
Extremely helpful - I used this to reseal my R100/7. Thanks so much for the excellent explanation!
Great to hear !
awesome, what a gift to the boxer community. Thanks
Thanks so much for your positive reinforcement. We love these bikes and hope to help others.
All these videos are priceless...thank you!
At this point in the set of videos I know this read drive seal replacement task is beyond my skill and tool sets. This video will be a great guide to be prepared for a Tech day. Thank you for doing this.
Thanks for you input. Some procedures are more difficult than others. There is lots more to come so please be sure to subscribe!
Mine too Thierry - wonder what a BMW shop charges for this?
thank you so much Sir ,the way that you explained is so perfect
Thanks for your generosity in making these videos!
Thanks you for your kind comment! We are providing these videos with great pleasure!
so plain, so clear... as you go along I have googled the tools -- amazing how reasonably priced needed tools can be bought -- lov the old school thinking of using a soda can -- great videos.
Great to hear!
Thank you very much for your video’s very informative for my 1988rt 100
Exactly what I need... thank you so much...
Great video. Noticed my 1980 r80 started leaking oil out of one of the pin hole drains so I'm going to change the seals.
for all the videos, some of the best instruction ever. There are just two or three folks I would let work on my bike. Me, man in videos and my friend Cory Beach. Bravo sir, excellent work!
Wow, thanks!
All the special tools together probably out value a decent condition complete air head. One large part of being a mechanic for many makes is the ability to improvise.
Thank you for your great video
A great tutorial
Very impressive work
You´re wonderful, man. Love the passion and care you put on every explanation.
Thank you very much Juan!
love the soda can trick!
Hi Andrew, I was equally stoked to figure that one out! Thinking outside of the can!
Really enjoyed these instructional videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills.
It's a great pleasure and our hope is that we can help fellow enthusiasts with their projects.
Exceptional detail, superb video recording, very helpful, thank you
This video is awesome and so helpful! 👍
I'm really enjoying your videos. It making me want to take my boxer apart to check it out. Thanks for the tips on making special tools.
Thanks! Tools are essential to do the job!
that was awesome, thanks dude!
Wow these videos are incredible! Saved me so much work! Do you guys do motoguzzis?
Brilliant!
Hi William,
Excellent videos with clear and concise explanations and great detail camera angles. I enjoy your use of mixing proper and shop made tools to get the job done, and of course your knowledge and use of tricks and tips.
Quick question for you or your viewers;
I have a 1995 r100 GSPD, and found oil dripping from the final drive. Not much but enough to get my attention. I took the rear wheel off, exposing the final drive seal, which did show a small leak. The seal was sitting proud about 1mm or less. I thought if the seal was not installed properly it could leak so I tapped it in a little bit more about another 1.5 mm.
The question is, was it sitting properly and just a bad seal needing replacement or did I tap a bad seal in to far?
Thanks again.
Petr
Excellent
The man! Awesome video 👌🏽
Another great video.
Even the Dog was excited ! :)
Great video! Mine is getting fluid transfer from the drive shaft to final drive and needs this done. After watching this I think I'll pay someone to do it ;)
Look us up in North Carolina. We would love to help you out!
Awesome content, guys!!
Thanks, Paul!
maybe it wasnt allowed, but i posted that performance tool w1270 will work fine to get the slotted nut off the output shaft if you cut off 4 of the ears and its 10 bucks if you do a quick search
Love these Videos! I have these tools that I bought at dealer auction back in the 80's. I never knew what they fit. I have a rear end (37/11)from a '74 r60/6. (my 1st Beemer). Splines are 40%. Can you give me an Idea what a rebuilt drive would fetch and the cost of parts. I can do the disassembly and reassembly.
Thank you again
Is there any difference in procedure for the 1979-1984 R100RS/RT bikes? Great videos, bing watching :) Thanks
I noticed that you use a heat gun to expand the rear drive to remove and put the bearing back in. Is there a particular reason you use a heat gun.... and not say a Map Gas torch? Would not a Map gas torch get the job done faster? Or do you use the heat gun to keep from using too much heat? Just curious.
We use the heat gun because it applies an even and relatively low heat. We don't want to exceed 100C. Also I have not tried a MAPP torch, so that might be better yet.
Torches are very agressive and can warp things. Also they can melt and deform the seals. Faster is not always better. I was taught only with a heat gun, also you could say it's safer and you're not taking that much longer...
I am re-watching your videos, and it has been nice to hear you when saying“PERFECTO”!!. I am Spanish (&50% Danish), that’s it! (MOTOWERKE at Instagram).
That's awesome!
Great stuff! Thank you!
i am working on a 1966 R60/2 .DO you have videos to halpe me?The Re-sealing the final drive is a big helpe.
I can throw the Haynes manual away now.👍
Great video, I’ve just bought a 1985 R65, is the final drive the same? And does it have the same weep holes? Thanks, Jez.
Hi, the 1985 final drive is entirely different. It does not have weep holes. We will actually be taking one apart pretty soon. Check out our new series of videos about the R80RT. The final drive repair will be uploaded late October or early November 2019.
can someone help mention the size of the large oil seal? having difficulties in finding one. thx
I can’t find a brake reservoir for my 1979 r65 bmw can you help
Q: is it possible to only replace the ring gear seals and gasket (not the piñon seal) while the final drive is still in the bike or must it be removed ? Thank you for all the great info !
I see you are using an electric heat gun..... Is there a reason you are NOT using say a MAPP gas torch? Would this not heat the metal up faster (allowing the outside to expand quicker than the heat could get to the inside)... and let the bearings fall out faster? OR do you not do this for a reason? Not complaining ... just wondering from your experience...
We use the heat gun because it applies an even and relatively low heat. We don't want to exceed 100C. Also I have not tried a MAPP torch, so that might be better yet.
Q: What is the torque spec for the output shaft cover?
@@DummiesGarage I think I torqued them to 20Nm or 10Nm? Haven't leaked yet..
I let d qualify bike machanik to fix my bike if it major work. Money to spend not to keep not to spend.
Excellent video William, thanks from across the pond. I've lost count on how many times I have viewed and reviewed. I'm just about to re-assemble and have found some lateral movement in the drive shaft pinion bearing (33121230247) on my 82 R100. Any tips on how I can removereplace it?