Pinion & Ring gear, not rack & pinion. Your filming is very good. Your setting out the disassembled parts is excellently done. It reminds me of the 1969 issue of Cycle World which totally disassembled the Honda 750 onto a white sheet for all to see the care and detail of its manufacture. It was such an impressive demonstration that I remember it 54 years later. Your work is of that memorable standard.
Hi there, thank you for your feedback! I am aware I made this mistake and I hope this doesn't happen again, thanks for understanding. I really appreciate your comment and how you connected this memory from the past. This comment means a lot to me and I would love to find that article of the Honda 750, just to see how they instilled this moment into you. Thanks again, Mark! Regards Andreas
This channel is a real boon to us old airhead owners (the bikes, but maybe the owners as well!)... Please do an oilhead series, one day as well! Congratulations on a superb channel.
The drive shaft nut is pressed with high torque on the drive shaft, tapered. So, if it was originally installed at the correct torque, it should come loose like a rocket. Best to secure everything so no projectiles are flying around. You skipped the part where the nut comes loose.
That is correct, the driveshaft coupling nut is torqued to a very high spec and it holds the coupling onto the driveshaft with the taper. In this video I shared a lot of segments that were fast forwarded along with the driveshaft coupling removal. It was on there tight, but it wasn‘t as dangerous as you mention here☺️ Safety is always a good idea and I respect your comment for that reason. In this video (ruclips.net/video/khclodCAka8/видео.htmlsi=iRzljVaFkT9HiWwj ) you can see the swing arm assembly starting at minute 17:18. Maybe you will find this important for your own assembly purposes. Thanks for your great comment! Regards Andreas😊👍🏽
Same here! If you add up all the special-tools for one of these BMW's you can get yourself quite a few parts for that money. I'm glad you find value within my videos and I hope I could should enough info. I hope your rear-end rebuild goes well. Make sure those splines are good!! Cheers
Im new to your chanel and im diggn the content. constructive criticism, having to adjust the volume constantly when you put in the filler music between narration is maddening!
Hi there, thanks for tuning in and leaving valuable feedback! I've received a couple comments about this issue and I believe I have resolved this with the talking clips transitioning into clips with music, and vice versa. I'm trying my best to get better at the editing side of things (audio/video/music), so please let me know if you experience anything off in my future videos. Regards Andreas
That is correct! A lot of patience is needed and I'm more than happy to test myself on this project. Many steps are involved to achieve a great finish and I'm not trying to cut any corners. When it comes to the videos, I just really hope this series will help many viewers out there with their own bikes.
Hi Gary, thanks for tuning in! I actually did not share the pinion shaft removal. In order to remove it, one must heat the final drive housing and use a puller type tool, to extract the large double row angular ball bearing, with the pinion shaft. I will share an assembly video sometime soon and hopefully you'll be able to see more details. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for the reply. I've managed to remove the pinion. I was missing the obvious and found another video where they put the nut back on and used that to pull against after heating up the case around the bearing. Was easy once I knew how.
Hi there! The rear shock assembly video has not been shared yet, as I am still trying to source lip-seals for the assembly. Once I find a solution I will definitely share it with you. Stay tuned for updates on this topic. Regards Andreas
I am surprised that the driveshaft spline came off so easily, I had to have one replaced on my 71 R75/5, my mechanic, using the BMW puller used 2 cheater bars and almost injured himself just to break the bond between the tapers
The driveshaft spline was very tight on there!! 15:29 I used a specialty puller that had a tight fit up against the outside diameter of the part. This ensured a good grip on the shoulder of that part and that's probably what made this much easier to remove. Without this puller it would be hard to remove, because there is not much room for anything else. It's always good to be VERY cautious when using a puller or bars to remove fitted parts! Best Regards Andreas
This puller was purchased second-hand and it's stamped with "Herbrand No.852 USA". I found a Herbrand catalog from back in the day, but I cannot seem to find this puller anywhere online.
Hi there! The pullers I have are purchased 2nd hand. I used two different types of pullers in this video: • 2-Jaw Puller for Driveshaft • 3-Jaw Puller for Swing arm Bearings I used these tools because it‘s what I have and I did a quick google search, but I cannot find them. They are most likely vintage tools! On the other hand, if you‘re looking for a decent puller set for you BMW (or motorcycle in general) you should look into an „Internal Bearing Puller Set“ or „Expandable Bearing Puller Set“. This type of bearing puller will allow you to remove the swing arm bearings and the steering stem bearings too. I would highly recommend this, if that‘s what you‘re looking for. Regards Andreas
Correct, I haven't pulled that out yet. I will have more time in the upcoming weeks to work on the BMW R60/5 project, so I might have an update very soon. Regards -Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Cool. I believe you can just pull it out with some pliers (don't marr up the splines/threads) as long as you heat the hub to 250f. At least according to my Clymer manual. I'll be trying this later today on my 1980 R100. If it goes well I'll let you know.
That's a great idea! I would heat it up as well and I really do NOT want to damage the pinion gear. I wish you success on your removal and I''d love to know more about your R100. Thanks for sharing your info in the comment section. I hope this will help someone down the line as well. Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild I just got that from my Clymer manual lol. And yes, my Clymer manual states to heat the unit up to 260f prior. Wouldn't come off easy enough with pliers so I'm actually going to try again this time prying with 2 screwdrivers like Boxer2Works did: ruclips.net/video/SdadynFQu50/видео.html
There is quite a bit of wear-and-tear within the final drive! The mileage is not known as the clock stopped working...so it is possible that there were so many miles on this bike. Either way, it's nothing I can't repair.
@@WorkshopRebuild It is strange how some wears and some does not. After a life of bikes never a car I think riders that bang the shifter end up with gearbox worn bikes, lack of oil or rear fluids chewed final drive where wheel comes off. I just had that off on my either 49k or 149k r60 and the teeth were almost spec so that wear maybe a replacement used part when bike was cobbled together or it has 400000k LOL! If it don't smoke too much 100-300k I say. It is worth it they rev up nice I can pace with Teslas just don't let them follow you! 2 riders killed here by auto pilot so far.
I've received a couple comments about this issue and I might re-upload this video with correct audio levels. For some reason there is a flaw! Thank you for letting me know. Regards Andreas
I have made an error and did not even notice. I'm sorry for the frustration. What are you referring to as the "Gear"? I did mention a splined gear, which slides onto the pinion shaft. Do you see this as a flaw? Best regards
I was really looking forward to watching this whole series, but I just can’t watch anymore. The obnoxious “music” just absolutely RUINS these videos. I could turn the volume down, but then I’m turning up, and down, and up, and down again around the talking parts. Absolutely maddening. “Music” with a man talking, a woman giggling, sound effects, horribly out of tune synth keyboards, and on and on, and then an eternal “dance beat” with the same boom-chick beat with electronic hand claps; all sounding like they came from a toy keyboard. C’mon man. If you have to have free music, and can’t spring for real music, just don’t use any at all. It would be MUCH better to have silence than noise like this that turns people away. Try using no music and then just talk in the background with a voice overdub. I’d much rather even just hear your shop noises, or your wrenching history and how you learned as a background. Try watching the Mustie1 channel. He TALKS TO US while he works, and viewers thus LEARN A LOT. There is NEVER any music on his channel, and his channel is extremely successful. Another is James Condon; again, NO MUSIC. The content alone is good enough to not need it, and SO IS YOURS. I will never understand why SO many channels do this; RUIN great videos and series with maddeningly obnoxious non-“music”…
Yeah, I wish creators figure this one out music does zilch. I can put up with it this time because the channel is so well shot and paced, detailed as well.
Thanks a lot Bruce, it's not always easy to find good music, but I will try to for upcoming videos. Thank you for your feedback, this helps me create better videos for the future!!
😂....the word "pinion" is fine. Complete description is 'bevel pinion'. The word "rack" is wrong for sure because a rack is a straight level tooth run. It's properly called 'bevel drive pinion'.
@@mrcengr I appreciate your advice and you are correct! Rack was an error on my end and it even slipped past me in the editing. I will make sure I make up for this error during the assembly process. Thank you again and best regards
Pinion & Ring gear, not rack & pinion.
Your filming is very good. Your setting out the disassembled parts is excellently done. It reminds me of the 1969 issue of Cycle World which totally disassembled the Honda 750 onto a white sheet for all to see the care and detail of its manufacture. It was such an impressive demonstration that I remember it 54 years later. Your work is of that memorable standard.
Hi there, thank you for your feedback! I am aware I made this mistake and I hope this doesn't happen again, thanks for understanding.
I really appreciate your comment and how you connected this memory from the past. This comment means a lot to me and I would love to find that article of the Honda 750, just to see how they instilled this moment into you. Thanks again, Mark! Regards Andreas
I'm really looking forward to the finished product. You are doing a great job, keep it up
Thanks Matthew! It will be a fun project and I hope I can make this my best project to date. Stay tuned for upcoming episodes
This channel is a real boon to us old airhead owners (the bikes, but maybe the owners as well!)... Please do an oilhead series, one day as well! Congratulations on a superb channel.
Thanks for your feedback! I wish to share as much information as I possibly can and maybe I will find an oil-head in the near future. Regards Andreas
The drive shaft nut is pressed with high torque on the drive shaft, tapered. So, if it was originally installed at the correct torque, it should come loose like a rocket. Best to secure everything so no projectiles are flying around. You skipped the part where the nut comes loose.
That is correct, the driveshaft coupling nut is torqued to a very high spec and it holds the coupling onto the driveshaft with the taper.
In this video I shared a lot of segments that were fast forwarded along with the driveshaft coupling removal. It was on there tight, but it wasn‘t as dangerous as you mention here☺️ Safety is always a good idea and I respect your comment for that reason.
In this video (ruclips.net/video/khclodCAka8/видео.htmlsi=iRzljVaFkT9HiWwj ) you can see the swing arm assembly starting at minute 17:18. Maybe you will find this important for your own assembly purposes.
Thanks for your great comment! Regards Andreas😊👍🏽
I'm all about home made tools! Getting closer to taking apart my rear drive so watching through some good, informative videos. 🤙
Same here! If you add up all the special-tools for one of these BMW's you can get yourself quite a few parts for that money. I'm glad you find value within my videos and I hope I could should enough info. I hope your rear-end rebuild goes well. Make sure those splines are good!! Cheers
Im new to your chanel and im diggn the content. constructive criticism, having to adjust the volume constantly when you put in the filler music between narration is maddening!
Hi there, thanks for tuning in and leaving valuable feedback! I've received a couple comments about this issue and I believe I have resolved this with the talking clips transitioning into clips with music, and vice versa.
I'm trying my best to get better at the editing side of things (audio/video/music), so please let me know if you experience anything off in my future videos. Regards Andreas
FYI, drum brakes have shoes not pads
That is 100% correct! My bad, thank you for your comment 😃👍🏽 Regards Andreas
There's a special tool you have that you can't see nor buy. It's the infinite patience tool😎.
That is correct! A lot of patience is needed and I'm more than happy to test myself on this project. Many steps are involved to achieve a great finish and I'm not trying to cut any corners. When it comes to the videos, I just really hope this series will help many viewers out there with their own bikes.
Great video again. Have you shared the video on removing the pinion shaft? Not sure if I've missed it somewhere?
Hi Gary, thanks for tuning in! I actually did not share the pinion shaft removal. In order to remove it, one must heat the final drive housing and use a puller type tool, to extract the large double row angular ball bearing, with the pinion shaft.
I will share an assembly video sometime soon and hopefully you'll be able to see more details. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Thanks for the reply. I've managed to remove the pinion. I was missing the obvious and found another video where they put the nut back on and used that to pull against after heating up the case around the bearing. Was easy once I knew how.
Perfekt.! Thank U.
I'm glad you enjoyed this video! You are more than welcome, Regards Andreas
Where is the rear-shock rebuild/reassembly video
Hi there! The rear shock assembly video has not been shared yet, as I am still trying to source lip-seals for the assembly. Once I find a solution I will definitely share it with you. Stay tuned for updates on this topic. Regards Andreas
I am surprised that the driveshaft spline came off so easily, I had to have one replaced on my 71 R75/5, my mechanic, using the BMW puller used 2 cheater bars and almost injured himself just to break the bond between the tapers
The driveshaft spline was very tight on there!! 15:29 I used a specialty puller that had a tight fit up against the outside diameter of the part. This ensured a good grip on the shoulder of that part and that's probably what made this much easier to remove. Without this puller it would be hard to remove, because there is not much room for anything else. It's always good to be VERY cautious when using a puller or bars to remove fitted parts! Best Regards Andreas
Where did you get the puller and what is the model number. Thank you
This puller was purchased second-hand and it's stamped with "Herbrand No.852 USA". I found a Herbrand catalog from back in the day, but I cannot seem to find this puller anywhere online.
may I ask where you purchased that swing arm puller please
Hi there! The pullers I have are purchased 2nd hand. I used two different types of pullers in this video:
• 2-Jaw Puller for Driveshaft
• 3-Jaw Puller for Swing arm Bearings
I used these tools because it‘s what I have and I did a quick google search, but I cannot find them. They are most likely vintage tools!
On the other hand, if you‘re looking for a decent puller set for you BMW (or motorcycle in general) you should look into an „Internal Bearing Puller Set“ or „Expandable Bearing Puller Set“.
This type of bearing puller will allow you to remove the swing arm bearings and the steering stem bearings too.
I would highly recommend this, if that‘s what you‘re looking for.
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild thank you
Hey doesn't look like you found a tool to remove the pinion gear out of the final drive yet?
Correct, I haven't pulled that out yet. I will have more time in the upcoming weeks to work on the BMW R60/5 project, so I might have an update very soon. Regards -Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Cool. I believe you can just pull it out with some pliers (don't marr up the splines/threads) as long as you heat the hub to 250f. At least according to my Clymer manual. I'll be trying this later today on my 1980 R100. If it goes well I'll let you know.
That's a great idea! I would heat it up as well and I really do NOT want to damage the pinion gear. I wish you success on your removal and I''d love to know more about your R100. Thanks for sharing your info in the comment section. I hope this will help someone down the line as well. Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild I just got that from my Clymer manual lol. And yes, my Clymer manual states to heat the unit up to 260f prior. Wouldn't come off easy enough with pliers so I'm actually going to try again this time prying with 2 screwdrivers like Boxer2Works did: ruclips.net/video/SdadynFQu50/видео.html
That final drive looked like 180 000 or was ran dry a while or raced too fast.
There is quite a bit of wear-and-tear within the final drive! The mileage is not known as the clock stopped working...so it is possible that there were so many miles on this bike. Either way, it's nothing I can't repair.
@@WorkshopRebuild It is strange how some wears and some does not. After a life of bikes never a car I think riders that bang the shifter end up with gearbox worn bikes, lack of oil or rear fluids chewed final drive where wheel comes off. I just had that off on my either 49k or 149k r60 and the teeth were almost spec so that wear maybe a replacement used part when bike was cobbled together or it has 400000k LOL! If it don't smoke too much 100-300k I say. It is worth it they rev up nice I can pace with Teslas just don't let them follow you! 2 riders killed here by auto pilot so far.
@@WorkshopRebuild Wheelies or city clutch dump take offs may chew those rear teeth like that too. You will be rewarded! by the Airhead gods.
16:41 you are away from camera Sound is so small@@
I see you explaining things but I don't hear your voice. I only have music. Something is wrong I gues.
I've received a couple comments about this issue and I might re-upload this video with correct audio levels. For some reason there is a flaw! Thank you for letting me know. Regards Andreas
Rack and pinion? And a GEAR? Really?? Apart from these booboos, your video is informative.
I have made an error and did not even notice. I'm sorry for the frustration. What are you referring to as the "Gear"? I did mention a splined gear, which slides onto the pinion shaft. Do you see this as a flaw? Best regards
I was really looking forward to watching this whole series, but I just can’t watch anymore. The obnoxious “music” just absolutely RUINS these videos. I could turn the volume down, but then I’m turning up, and down, and up, and down again around the talking parts. Absolutely maddening. “Music” with a man talking, a woman giggling, sound effects, horribly out of tune synth keyboards, and on and on, and then an eternal “dance beat” with the same boom-chick beat with electronic hand claps; all sounding like they came from a toy keyboard. C’mon man. If you have to have free music, and can’t spring for real music, just don’t use any at all. It would be MUCH better to have silence than noise like this that turns people away. Try using no music and then just talk in the background with a voice overdub. I’d much rather even just hear your shop noises, or your wrenching history and how you learned as a background. Try watching the Mustie1 channel. He TALKS TO US while he works, and viewers thus LEARN A LOT. There is NEVER any music on his channel, and his channel is extremely successful. Another is James Condon; again, NO MUSIC. The content alone is good enough to not need it, and SO IS YOURS. I will never understand why SO many channels do this; RUIN great videos and series with maddeningly obnoxious non-“music”…
Yeah, I wish creators figure this one out music does zilch. I can put up with it this time because the channel is so well shot and paced, detailed as well.
Bgm is too loud,your sound is too small😢
I like the video, HATE THE MUSIC!!!!
Thanks a lot Bruce, it's not always easy to find good music, but I will try to for upcoming videos. Thank you for your feedback, this helps me create better videos for the future!!
@@WorkshopRebuild trouble with the music is it gets LOUD and covers when you are talking, I quit watching because of it.
You lost me at rack and pinion.
That slipped on me, excuse me! I meant to say ring & pinion. Thank you for your prompt response. Best regards
😂....the word "pinion" is fine. Complete description is 'bevel pinion'. The word "rack" is wrong for sure because a rack is a straight level tooth run. It's properly called 'bevel drive pinion'.
@@mrcengr I appreciate your advice and you are correct! Rack was an error on my end and it even slipped past me in the editing. I will make sure I make up for this error during the assembly process. Thank you again and best regards