Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new. I know this post is 5 years since the last one. I hope you will return with some new videos. I like the fact that you are to the point, great camera work....no time wasted.
hi, hope u are doing good. I have 2015 Hyndai elentra. Car doesnt start and doesnt crank, but if i push the car by keeping car in park a little jurg then if i come back and start the car it starts. i have asked dealer to change starter , but even after that this problem occurs.. do u know any reason behind this.
Dan Gunson Wow didn't think someone would catch that so quick :-). Better put an annotation. At no load on these older Fords 13-15 volts is normal. If I would have turned on the headlights, rear defroster, blower motor, etc the voltage would have dropped. That's why when testing an alternator while on the vehicle (by measuring the voltage at the alternator B+ terminal) you want to turn on as many of the high current drawing accessories as possible to put a heavier load on the alternator. A bad alternator is like a bad battery it can test fine if it's being lightly loaded but will fail to perform when heavily loaded. But charging system testing is another video entirely.
What if you have an intermittent no crank no start condition where the car will be dead unless you keep twisting the key until the starter cranks and the car starts just fine? Sometimes, when I crank, it'll crank for a split second before it does but if I keep the key turned, it will resume crank and start just fine? This is the issue I'm having with my '96 Accord. I believe it had an immobilizer on it that has had the wires in the engine bay cut. Have you had a similar issue with yours?
***** Those Honda's are notorious for their ignition switches going bad I'd check that first then the immobilizer. I've already made a video on ignition switch testing and replacement. If the ignition switch and immobilizer check out then all that's left is troubleshooting the starter.
***** Technically it should but the 96 models aren't in the recall TSB so I'd just let the dealer look up the part number. You can also buy these aftermarket.
sivaraj palanisamy OEM terminals are either crimped or soldered on which requires special tools. Aftermarket terminals are your best bet you can just bolt the stripped wire onto them.
Oozingmachismo24 Many people don't have a load tester. A load tester is useless unless the battery is fully charged and truth be told the cheap tiny 100 AMP load testers most people would buy don't put a full load on the battery. Are they better than nothing? Sure but they're far from ideal. You really want an adjustable carbon pile load tester so you can adjust the resistance and draw the same amount of current the starter draws. These larger load testers run at least 100 bucks. Not cost effective for someone who just wants to work on 1 or 2 cars. In addition to that you'll waste more time charging the battery before you can even use a load tester which is why a conductance tester is the first thing I normally reach for a fully charged battery isn't necessary. But again even though I show them for your information I try to limit special tools unless absolutely necessary and show alternate less expensive methods.
Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new. I know this post is 5 years since the last one. I hope you will return with some new videos. I like the fact that you are to the point, great camera work....no time wasted.
Wow..you're back! I just liked your post from another..thx bro! Regards from Indonesia. Accord (Cielo Owner Community)
Great video. Your video on how to charge an a/c system was also extremely helpful to me. Thanks.
Glad to see you're back!
Very nice u are always best to the point
Thanks. Great help. Could WD-40 be used on those hold down screws?
great !
hi, hope u are doing good. I have 2015 Hyndai elentra. Car doesnt start and doesnt crank, but if i push the car by keeping car in park a little jurg then if i come back and start the car it starts. i have asked dealer to change starter , but even after that this problem occurs.. do u know any reason behind this.
did you think the charge voltage was a bit high?
Dan Gunson Wow didn't think someone would catch that so quick :-). Better put an annotation.
At no load on these older Fords 13-15 volts is normal.
If I would have turned on the headlights, rear defroster, blower motor, etc the voltage would have dropped.
That's why when testing an alternator while on the vehicle (by measuring the voltage at the alternator B+ terminal) you want to turn on as many of the high current drawing accessories as possible to put a heavier load on the alternator.
A bad alternator is like a bad battery it can test fine if it's being lightly loaded but will fail to perform when heavily loaded. But charging system testing is another video entirely.
What if you have an intermittent no crank no start condition where the car will be dead unless you keep twisting the key until the starter cranks and the car starts just fine?
Sometimes, when I crank, it'll crank for a split second before it does but if I keep the key turned, it will resume crank and start just fine? This is the issue I'm having with my '96 Accord. I believe it had an immobilizer on it that has had the wires in the engine bay cut. Have you had a similar issue with yours?
***** Those Honda's are notorious for their ignition switches going bad I'd check that first then the immobilizer. I've already made a video on ignition switch testing and replacement. If the ignition switch and immobilizer check out then all that's left is troubleshooting the starter.
***** Thanks for the advice! I assume the part number from that video will work on my car too?
***** Technically it should but the 96 models aren't in the recall TSB so I'd just let the dealer look up the part number. You can also buy these aftermarket.
One q if I want to change terminal shld I have to buy from oem if not for aftermarket can I buy any terminal or specific one
sivaraj palanisamy OEM terminals are either crimped or soldered on which requires special tools. Aftermarket terminals are your best bet you can just bolt the stripped wire onto them.
Good video but a load tester does this in a quarter of the time
Or conducive tester vs meter
Oozingmachismo24 Many people don't have a load tester. A load tester is useless unless the battery is fully charged and truth be told the cheap tiny 100 AMP load testers most people would buy don't put a full load on the battery. Are they better than nothing? Sure but they're far from ideal.
You really want an adjustable carbon pile load tester so you can adjust the resistance and draw the same amount of current the starter draws. These larger load testers run at least 100 bucks. Not cost effective for someone who just wants to work on 1 or 2 cars.
In addition to that you'll waste more time charging the battery before you can even use a load tester which is why a conductance tester is the first thing I normally reach for a fully charged battery isn't necessary.
But again even though I show them for your information I try to limit special tools unless absolutely necessary and show alternate less expensive methods.