Putting NEW OIL on a new oil filter gasket will ensure a good seal and also allows you to REMOVE it when it’s time. If you do not oil the filter gasket the filter may fuse to the oil pan making removal difficult.
Better to remove the oil fill plug before draining the oil, because that helps to drain all the oil out by letting air in. Same situation changing oil on a car.
Thank you! I just hit 600 miles and want to do it myself but didn't know the exact steps I needed to follow. I'll be doing this soon. Saved this to a motorcycle upkeep list.
Very good and informative video bro. By the way, if you don't want the oil pressure light to turn on, just fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it.
I don’t exactly know, but for my car I went to a local auto parts store and asked them if they could find the exact bolt and a crush washer that would fit on there and they helped me :)
I’ll change mine usually once at the end of the season so when my bike sits over winter it’s got fresh oil in it. Or if you can ride year round, about every 5000-7000km depending how hard you ride it
I would change it at around 6000km next. The owners manual should tell you exactly what Kawasaki recommends, but usually once per season or every 5000-7000km is what I generally do
Did you ever got the filter hit by a rock or something? Is it worth trying to get a skid plate or something under the bike for a bit more protection? Couldn't find any information on this accesories for a z400 online...
Just changed my z400 oil today, thanks for the video, and did you only hand tighten the oil filter by hand or use a torque, I just used my hand but I’m just wondering if that’s enough
When I bought, it was brandless, but now it’s sold under the Ransoto name. I have a video comparing stock to the exhaust, and the Amazon link is in the description :)
I went through ABATE of Alaska, for $300 they have a 3 day, 5 hours a day course that teaches you all of the basics of riding and some advanced stuff as well. At the end of the final day, there’s a test you take on a bike and if you pass (it’s not too hard) you get your endorsement that way. Just bring to DMV and they’ll issue a new license for like $10. They also have advanced courses if you’ve been riding a bit before. I super recommend it! I’m not sure about just going straight through the dmv though.
This is the link for it, amazon says it’s unavailable, but there is a 3/8in drive available for around $40 and I use the adapter all the time so I would recommend that one actually, made by the same company 1/2 unavailable- TACKLIFE 1/2" Drive Click Torque Wrench Set, With 3/8 Torque Wrench Adapter and 6 Inch Extension Bar, (10-150 ft.- lb./13.6-203.5 Nm) www.amazon.com/dp/B07FF1YL4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d5-wFbZZ4WWAW 3/8 in available- TACKLIFE 3/8" Drive Click Torque Wrench Set, With 1/2" & 1/4" Adapters and an Extension Bar (10-80 ft.- lb./13.6-108.5 Nm) - HTW1A www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDX517M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w.-wFbVW20J8M
I’ve never used it myself. I always use the OEM oil and filter for my bike. Probably a few dollars extra but it gives me piece of mind. Anything with the SAE oil will do the job though.
So the rating refers to how viscous the oil is at cold and hot temperatures. Whatever the manufacturer suggests in the manual is always what you should use in the bike unless you live in extreme weather like below -40°F or above 130°F but no one would ride in that anyways. If you’re looking for an oil for your bike, as long as it is the correct weight rating and it has an SAE symbol on the back, it will be sufficient
I haven’t. The air filter is oil cleaned so you’ll have to drain the oil at the same time. I don’t imagine the spark plugs are difficult, I just haven’t needed to change them yet
Sorry it took me a bit to reply. This is the amazon link for it: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8S618R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It looks sketchy but I'm quite impressed with it. It goes on a little tight, grease and some hammering got mine on, and the fastening nut has rusted a little bit, but $65 for an exhaust that sounds easily $200 more than that? I'm happy with it. I definitely recommend it!
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 Sorry for sounding so critical. You can slip using a torque wrench with an extension. seems to be plenty of room to torque without it. I re-watched the video and its a good guide. Sorry for my lame comments above. I ordered the same filter as you (part number 16097-0008) but my filter looks shorter, but maybe its just an optical illusion. I can't find a new washer to save my life, but I tend to agree with your assessment on re-using the old one. The parts manual calls out the washer as a 12x22x2mm, I can find 12x20x1.8 and 12x21x2, but figure if I measure my existing and it is not far off the spec than I will reuse it. Kawasaki also states the torque for the filter (12.9 ft pounds) and I would suggest if you can measure it use it. Hand tight is an arbitrary tightness. Cheers.
No worries dude. Yeah the washer after I cleaned it off was in pretty good shape so I found no reason to replace it. It’s personal preference if you’d like to tho. I’ve never bought another one for any of my cars or bikes and never had an issue with it. Yeah the oil filter is the same story, if you’d like to torque it down to exactly what Kawasaki says there’s nothing wrong with that, but I think hand tightening gets it about the same. Plus as the oil filter is used, the pressure of the oil sucks the filter against the oil pan which strengthens the seal. Either way, but I’m glad you found the video helpful!
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 Also a good idea to put a little oil in the filter before installing it. I know it goes on at an angle, so you can't put too much though. Doing that means you'll be without oil pressure for less time because it won't need as much oil to fill the filter.
Putting NEW OIL on a new oil filter gasket will ensure a good seal and also allows you to REMOVE it when it’s time. If you do not oil the filter gasket the filter may fuse to the oil pan making removal difficult.
Excellent Instruction my dude. You enunciate clear and precise so it’s easy to follow. Keep up the good work.
Better to remove the oil fill plug before draining the oil, because that helps to drain all the oil out by letting air in. Same situation changing oil on a car.
Yeah that’s a good idea I forgot to mention, thanks!
Thanks for the video! Just did the oil change within 15 minutes. Perfect!
Thank you! I just hit 600 miles and want to do it myself but didn't know the exact steps I needed to follow. I'll be doing this soon. Saved this to a motorcycle upkeep list.
Very good and informative video bro. By the way, if you don't want the oil pressure light to turn on, just fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it.
For checking oil alone, I like to sit on the bike and use my phone to snap a pic of the sight glass. Then I don’t have to worry about dropping it.
Very good video! Super detailed and clear! Thanks!
What is the interval between each service, please help me
Your oil looks new plus great tutorial !
Excellent video, great tutorial
Very helpful. I have the same exact bike down to the aftermarket exhaust. I just never got the Manuel from the shop I purchased it at
Look under the rear seat?
Look under your main seat. Mine was jammed down inside the bike
Hello my friend, Do you know the size or part number of the Drain Plug Sealing Washers/Crush Gaskets,or where to order one ? thank you .
I don’t exactly know, but for my car I went to a local auto parts store and asked them if they could find the exact bolt and a crush washer that would fit on there and they helped me :)
Hi my friend , I own a Kawasaki Z400 2020 , can you tell me often how many kilometers we have to change the engine oil each time ,thanks ! .
I’ll change mine usually once at the end of the season so when my bike sits over winter it’s got fresh oil in it. Or if you can ride year round, about every 5000-7000km depending how hard you ride it
The first oil change on the new bike should be done at around 1500km tho
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 The first time I was changed the engine oil at # 600km, but I don't know when to change for the next time ?
I would change it at around 6000km next. The owners manual should tell you exactly what Kawasaki recommends, but usually once per season or every 5000-7000km is what I generally do
Thank you , for your valuable guidance ! .
Did you ever got the filter hit by a rock or something? Is it worth trying to get a skid plate or something under the bike for a bit more protection? Couldn't find any information on this accesories for a z400 online...
Just changed my z400 oil today, thanks for the video, and did you only hand tighten the oil filter by hand or use a torque, I just used my hand but I’m just wondering if that’s enough
bro did you fall with the oil . its everywhere
Great video!
What is the exhaust you got on the z400?
When I bought, it was brandless, but now it’s sold under the Ransoto name. I have a video comparing stock to the exhaust, and the Amazon link is in the description :)
What viscosity does the oil need to be?
How hard was the test in AK. Thanks
You mean the test for a motorcycle license?
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 yes the test for the endorsement. The riding portion. Thanks
I went through ABATE of Alaska, for $300 they have a 3 day, 5 hours a day course that teaches you all of the basics of riding and some advanced stuff as well. At the end of the final day, there’s a test you take on a bike and if you pass (it’s not too hard) you get your endorsement that way. Just bring to DMV and they’ll issue a new license for like $10. They also have advanced courses if you’ve been riding a bit before. I super recommend it! I’m not sure about just going straight through the dmv though.
Hey do you have a link for the torque wrench? Thanks
This is the link for it, amazon says it’s unavailable, but there is a 3/8in drive available for around $40 and I use the adapter all the time so I would recommend that one actually, made by the same company
1/2 unavailable- TACKLIFE 1/2" Drive Click Torque Wrench Set, With 3/8 Torque Wrench Adapter and 6 Inch Extension Bar, (10-150 ft.- lb./13.6-203.5 Nm) www.amazon.com/dp/B07FF1YL4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d5-wFbZZ4WWAW
3/8 in available- TACKLIFE 3/8" Drive Click Torque Wrench Set, With 1/2" & 1/4" Adapters and an Extension Bar (10-80 ft.- lb./13.6-108.5 Nm) - HTW1A www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDX517M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w.-wFbVW20J8M
Thank you for the quick reply. I appreciate it 🙏
Great video man, thank you!
Is Lucas motorcycle oil good to use??
I’ve never used it myself. I always use the OEM oil and filter for my bike. Probably a few dollars extra but it gives me piece of mind. Anything with the SAE oil will do the job though.
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 what is the difference with the 10W-30 an the rest of them?
So the rating refers to how viscous the oil is at cold and hot temperatures. Whatever the manufacturer suggests in the manual is always what you should use in the bike unless you live in extreme weather like below -40°F or above 130°F but no one would ride in that anyways. If you’re looking for an oil for your bike, as long as it is the correct weight rating and it has an SAE symbol on the back, it will be sufficient
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 I have the exact same BiKE as you
Hello, nice video thank you! Did you make a video on how to change air filter and spark plugs ? :D
I haven’t. The air filter is oil cleaned so you’ll have to drain the oil at the same time. I don’t imagine the spark plugs are difficult, I just haven’t needed to change them yet
Hey what is the Slip-On brand on your bike
Sorry it took me a bit to reply. This is the amazon link for it: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8S618R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It looks sketchy but I'm quite impressed with it. It goes on a little tight, grease and some hammering got mine on, and the fastening nut has rusted a little bit, but $65 for an exhaust that sounds easily $200 more than that? I'm happy with it. I definitely recommend it!
How often you clean/lube the chain?
I’ll clean and lube it every other fill up of gas or so. When it gets squeaky while you ride is another indication of you should clean/lube it
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 Can you make a video of how you clean and lube the chain ?
Good idea! Currently winter in Alaska but I’ll put that on the list for future videos :)
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 picking up my z400 in April, hopefully the timing works out🙂 thanks.
Sweeeet! It’s a great bike, you’ll love it. Feel free to comment back here or elsewhere to get my attention if you got any other questions :)
What exhaust do you have?
Here is the Amazon link for it!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8S618R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found 10oz of oil in the filter and 2 qts in the oil pan, so the oil change with filter would be 2.25qts and .25=10oz.😮
Thanks Alaskan .
Slow clap...👏
Sloppy oil change, dangerous use of that torque wrench . Yeah, the basic steps are there, but so are some bad procedures.
What makes you say that?
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 Sorry for sounding so critical. You can slip using a torque wrench with an extension. seems to be plenty of room to torque without it. I re-watched the video and its a good guide. Sorry for my lame comments above.
I ordered the same filter as you (part number 16097-0008) but my filter looks shorter, but maybe its just an optical illusion. I can't find a new washer to save my life, but I tend to agree with your assessment on re-using the old one. The parts manual calls out the washer as a 12x22x2mm, I can find 12x20x1.8 and 12x21x2, but figure if I measure my existing and it is not far off the spec than I will reuse it. Kawasaki also states the torque for the filter (12.9 ft pounds) and I would suggest if you can measure it use it. Hand tight is an arbitrary tightness. Cheers.
No worries dude. Yeah the washer after I cleaned it off was in pretty good shape so I found no reason to replace it. It’s personal preference if you’d like to tho. I’ve never bought another one for any of my cars or bikes and never had an issue with it. Yeah the oil filter is the same story, if you’d like to torque it down to exactly what Kawasaki says there’s nothing wrong with that, but I think hand tightening gets it about the same. Plus as the oil filter is used, the pressure of the oil sucks the filter against the oil pan which strengthens the seal. Either way, but I’m glad you found the video helpful!
The original oil filter part# (16097-0552) is made in Thailand, and the aftermarket one(part#16097-0008) is made in chiNa.
@@alaskanmotovlogs8329 Also a good idea to put a little oil in the filter before installing it. I know it goes on at an angle, so you can't put too much though. Doing that means you'll be without oil pressure for less time because it won't need as much oil to fill the filter.