Get AMAZINGLY PRECISE CUTS from this new woodworking bench hook / shooting board design!
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
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Hi, Mr. Nubs,
Today I was about to start a project that required 45 deg mitered corners and decided to abandon my old shooting board in favor of your new design.
I’ve finished it, used it, and I’m delighted with it. I made only one change in the design. Instead of screwing down the sacrificial 1/4” MDF, I used the trick you taught in your Dovetail Workstation video-I secured it with double-sided PSA tape. It’s worked perfectly so far.
Thanks, again...
I have been a power tools guy for some time, but I have realized that you can get a lot better accuracy with the older tools, and trimming things down to size is much easier with hand tools. I got my first dovetail saw on Monday and my Veritas Custom No. 5 Jack Plane arrives Friday. I can't wait to go back in time.
I made a shooting board about a year ago and I'm amazed how often I use it! I like your idea for the combination SB and bench hook, as well as the extension hooks.
Thank you James. I learn something from every one of your videos that makes my projects turn out better. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Stumpy, this is a great tip! I am going to make one of these tomorrow! I think you have the best home made tool designs. I love your book too and I can't wait for the next one.
I'm a new woodworker and I really appreciate the plans and video. Thank you.
Just ran across this. This is exactly what I’m looking for. Definitively will make one of these.
Thank you for the great video James! I love your channel!
Thanks for this video. I’m coming back to woodworking and furniture making after a few decades. I’ve recently built a new small workshop and having a lot of fun discovering many techniques. Really appreciate your skills and what your teaching me.
Thanks
the stumpy nubs woodworking page is awesome.... great for new or old woodworkers
Great idea. Really like the idea of support hooks - so simple. Saves crushing a beer can to use as a chock
I use a shooting board but none of my planes have perfect sole-to-side right angles. So, being Scottish with deep pockets and short arms, I took a carefully planed shaving the length of the shooting board and glued it to the board where the top edge of the side of the plane runs. Took a bit of trial and error to get a shaving of the right thickness - don't glue it until you've got that - and it now shaves perfect right-angles. Love your videos.
If you use a dedicated plane for the shooting board you can just use the lateral adjuster to compensate for any slight variance between sole and cheek on the plane. One set it should be fine till you adjust the cutting depth again or bump the plane
Excellent idea James. You've just taught an old dog a new trick!
I like this type of shooting board. It has a lot of features on a single board.
It's kinda amazing to me the accuracy you can achieve from this simple tool.
this is a great design I am needing to make a bench hook and a shooting board but this is so much better to have a multipurpose tool especially when you don't have a lot of room to store accessory's like me thank you Stumpy Nubs keep up the great content
Awesome tip! Off to the workshop!!!
What a great idea! Thanks
Always brilliant James!
thank you James, great video.
Great looking jib Stumpy! I don't have a lot of hand tools but I can see this will help me with my projects! Thanks for sharing your video. Always great!!
Simple and useful - an elegant solution.
How did I miss this, awesome design
Ya, I have a regular bench hook but think I need to upgrade to your design. I like it.
This is an ultra useful design and very cool.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice tips, ans Ideas :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
cool James going to make one!
In my small garage shop i am always looking for ways to make multipurpose jigs, this is perfect. I downloaded the plans and will get to work.
great idea
Thanks for another good idea!😆😆
Good job l'artiste
Big up Amigo de FRANCE
I am #4. I'll be making one of these!
A great workshop accessory. I’d just add that room on the back of the stop will accommodate pieces cut with Japanese saws that pull rather than push.
Thanks for another good one
This is great ... I have extended horizontal and vertical pieces a little so i can clamp those when i am using pull saw. May be there is a better way to design bench hook for both pull and push saws ..
excellent video, thanks
Awesome, James! I'll add a 30 and 60 degree, when I build mine! :)
As I pointed out in a comment below, as an alternative to the hook, one can use dowels instead of the hook, so it'll fit into the dog-holes in the workbench. This can be useful if you japanese saws. It'd probably be best to place the dowels in the center - or where the hook would otherwise be (that'd still allow for use as a bench-hook the traditional way, but allow you to use dog-holes in addition).
It benchooked me!
If you increase the framerate of the opening sequence you have my solemn promise that I'll buy a set of plans for this design :)
Muito bom!!!!!! Great!!!
Smart Idea, now; what to do with my separate bench hook and shooting board :D
verygood
Nice idea, combining the beench hook for sawing and mitreing! I'd considered it, but didn't think long and hard enough to write it down. So, I'll start with yours. Nice work, James, or is it "Stumpy"? BTW, Take care of those fingers! Thank you.
Curious if the 45 degree shooting setup prevents tear out well. Thanks for the video.
Great video and great content always love your stuff, James. Just came across this video now, I know it's already 6 years old but to shoot an edge of a board you don't actually need the side of the plane to be 90° perfectly to the sole of the plane. You can just use the lateral adjustment of the plane iron to skew it and bring it back into true.
That works, but they it throws the plane off for regular use.
I have many of your videos. They are all educational. Can you tell me the brand of plane that you are using in this video. Thank you. Trevor from Australia 3:52
Okay James, I just made a shooting board and now you come out with this video, so any ideas on how to adapt an already made board to work as a bench hook style? For example could I just put the hook board on the bottom of the shooting board (which I believe I adapted by adding a board in the center for a job site workmate to clamp onto).
Alright fine. I will subscribe to stumpy nubs magazine 👍
I would point out that the shooting board does not need a perfect 90-degree angle on the side of the plane,. The plane should really be held firmly against the work regardless of the side angle. Resting it on its side will invite inaccuracies.
James, I am renewing my interest in this for one particular reason. Can I make one to true what comes from my tablesaw to make it precise? Is 24" or more possible? I struggle with precision, and truing up a cut is a problem with my equipment. Thanks for any help.
Excelent video! Thank you!
What would be a simple adaption to make it also work for BOTH western saws AND japanese pull saws? While maintaining the same usability?
Rest it on the opposite side of the table :)
Great ideas! I love my Japanese saws, so I need to figure out how to build this backwards.
Build long and hook on the side of the workbench you ain't standing at? Basically? Then use the other side of the fence? Maybe? Jus thinkin...
Good idea, but they way my bench is set up that would not work. But it is food for thought on how to build what will work for me.
Do you have dog holes? You could use a couple dowels inset into the shooting board...
A 20$ woodworking vice on the front of the bench could grab the same bottom runner. Then it can't move any direction.
I have a leg vise to grab the runner no problem there. But since Japanese saws cut on the pull I have to rethink how the rest of the jig is put together so it will do everything as well as Stumpy's does.
Hey guys, anyone know how Bench Dog tools are in quality and all? I've seen their stuff go on sale so just been curious since I can't find no reviews or videos on Bench Dog brand🤔 Thanks in advance!
what stops the mitre slots from being cut up?
Wonderful!!! I have been manufacturing this while in Winter time, in our Base in ANTARCTICA, Concordia Dome C Station
Thanks James plan on building this over the holidays and buy my first smoother... which leads me to my question. I don’t want to tune up another old plane. ( all my first block planes are pre war and though they work great now I want to spend my time elsewhere not flattening steel). I’m willing to spend money on a good smoother and was curious about what would be your preference with this shooting board. I’m at a toss up between a new veritas low angle smoother and a new premium no 4 sweetheart??? Thanks and God Bless
Also how does that Bench dog compare to these two??
Then you add TayTools , wood river and lie Nielsen into the mix and how does one decide? They all seem comparable in price and quality as far as I can tell. Then add the low angle option some of these sizes come in and it about doubles the choices. Low angle I hear is good for shooting mirrors but will I enjoy it as an all around bench plane. I feel like this is an investment ( wish I could buy several but need money for power tools too ;-) )
and would appreciate any advice. Thanks.
A combo unit design is not common? I have done many searches on it, this is true. Strange. Seems like a Duh! kind of thing to me. Been toying with some ideas in the head for a while and this is a great design. Pretty hard to trick it out any further and still remain built from the small pieces inventory (no such thing as scrap). Made some of the skinny hooks several years ago. It is amazing how often they get used. I didn't compromised the heel with the hang up screw eye. I put that at the other end where there is no such concern.
I would think placing a small sacrificial piece of wood under what you will cut with the mitres would prevent you from damaging the surface of your shooting board.
I love this video. I like the "maybe 40 chunks of carbide spinning at 3800 rpm may not be the most precise cut" or such. Then he goes to this bench hook device. I say neither device. Start from scratch and invent a new type of saw that obviously does not seem to exist. All the pro tools are made for portability to take to a job and for quick power cuts. None are made for low noise, low dust, high precision cuts, which is what most at-home tinkerers need, or especially people in apartments that want to cut a board. I think home/apt saws should look more like CNC's and be automated, and be designed with dust capture the first thing in mind, then noise reduction, then speed of work. So I am making my own. ...someday.
James, In the photos that are with the drawings and assembly instructions you have a red mat of some kind on your workbench. Looks to me like you use that when gluing to keep the glue off the bench. I assume that you can clean the glue off of it easily as well. Am I correct? If so, what is that mat, what is it made of and perhaps where can I get something like that?
I have two 18X24 silicone glue mats. I love them. I recommend the 18X24, because one is perfect for most small work, and two side by side works well for larger work. Here's the Amazon link: amzn.to/2BhnWXc
Ya know James it's 2 days I've been trying to figure out just how I was gonna get this really odd angle cut on this shingle molding I'm running along the Outer Side Board of a Curb I have running up the outside on a Staircase incline angle is 43.5 degrees meaning that when attached to the vertical piece, i get to split 133.5 degrees and that divided by 2 is ???? Yes 66.75 degrees... There is No Power Miter saw in the World doing those angles...
Sooooo, the Point is. You just reminded me of the Old Shooting Board Tool.
Thanks James ,,, Uncle Roy is gonna be Proud of You. And I Thank You, Joe
Joe Daq could also use a speed square and then set the saw at what ever angle you need minus 45 degrees. Easy way to get the bigger angles
I'm there with ya, I usually would do same but using a "Rake Board" ie rise and run of stair tred and riser board. Problem is the curb trim is kinda the shape of shingle and is running about 136 inches long. Probably could use something like an out feed support.
Likin your suggestion, definitely will try it out.
James, Good video, good idea. Now, is the Bench Dog (out of supply at Rockler) as good as, or better than the Wood River? I am approaching ready to get a good Wood River, and the Bench Dog looks interesting........... Thanks for your videos and your approach to wood working with NEW ideas!
I'd go with Wood River. I'm not sure when Bench Dogs will be back in stock. Wood River is a good plane too. Maybe even a litter better.
Rob likes Wood River, and they sound good. Your idea makes it a more worthwhile, at least for me, purchase! I love your idea here! Being able to have true 90's is so important!
James, is a smoother the only way to go on this?? I am nearly ready to buy, and the jack plane is kinda where I want to go, but I am not sure it is suitable for this. Using this combo is a priority for me. My gardening is nearly done (no snow yet!) and woodworking is getting towards the front of my burners!
Dave McCracken
The jack #5 is a good all around plane. A #4 smoother might serve you better if you are going to be using dimensioned lumber for awhile. All said, my shop teacher from decades ago said that the jack was the best first plane to get
thanks I am waiting for the sale to return. Not in a rush, but the jack is where I am going.
It would appear that Rockler is no longer selling the Bench Dog hand planes. Is there another retailer that does? I did a google search, but found nothing. Odd that…
I use pull saws. Any tips? :)
You could just make a longer one and hook it on the rear of the bench, make this one, and add a (removable) fence in the middle or beginning of the hook, and then hold it down with a hold fast!
Given that Japanese (pull) saws don't require much force, I've found that normal bench hooks are more than okay and the wood stays put with just hand pressure against the front part of the hook.
great stuff - one problem: i´m using mostly japonese saws :-(
Put the fence and hook at the rear 😀
As Barry Peach says - or alternatively you could put dowels into the bottom of the board instead of the hook and use those with the dog-holes in your bench. That way, you could flip it if you one day need to use a western saw.
geesh Stumpy. Soon you will be wearing a flat cap hat and sporting a handlebar mustache
your plane doesn't need perfect 90 degree from sole to side. adjust using the lateral lever adjustment of your planes blade.
While that's true, it requires you to set up the plane specifically for this jig, and then re-adjust it for regular use. I prefer my planes to be ready to go when I pick them up. Maybe I'm just a little picky about it, but I don't want to have to take practice cuts to find square when I am shooting the end of a work piece.
first!
Meanwhile, I'm still trying to figure out a way to get round the problem of the set of the saw teeth chewing away at the sides of the mitre block slots. You need some set on the saw, even if only a little, and it doesn't take much use to render the mitre block slots so sloppy that you could probably achieve a better result working by eye. Any ideas? Or is it just my poor, inexperienced saw technique causing the problem?
You don't need much set for cuts in narrow stock like trim, etc. Dovetail saws have no set at all (or almost none). Use a saw with a lot of set for cutting wide boards (over 3") and 2X4's. Use a saw without much set for precision cutting on a jig like this. You can take the set out of a saw with careful hammering or with a wet stone. But I recommend buying a good quality tenon saw.
Hi James, many thanks for the response. But (isn't there always a 'but''?), I only ever use a vintage Eclipse tenon saw with my mitre block. Heck, right now I only have that and an old Sandvik hardpoint handsaw... which I do use on 2x4's - and anything else more than an inch or so thick. Looks like I probably need to get myself some decent saws and maybe modify them for particular uses. They do say you can never have too many tools..! Thanks again.
Not trying to be a smart-ass, but your explanation of the hook resisting the force of the forward cutting saw makes me wonder if there should be a version that hooks on the far side of one's bench - to be employed when using a Japanese saw ??
That's a valid point, and there are bench hooks for pull-style saws. But combining it with a shooting board function is difficult unless you also use Japanese planes, which cut on a pull stroke. Few western woodworkers use those planes. So this jig requires a push configuration.
i am a very long time follower of your work, always great, even this is a great idea, but men, i don`t think that someone who could use that jig needs a plan for that, is just ridiculously simple, someone who need plans for this shouldn´t be allowed to touch a saw, next plan what will be?, the map of Colorado?
Anyone can build a bench hook, but a lot of thought went into this design, including how to engineer certain parts to be replaceable as they wear. The plans also show how to use it properly, which includes tips not every new user would know.
Map of Colorado sounds interesting!
You rock so hard your'e a diamond. OK, enough platitudes. Unsubscribe.