I've never seen that idea before - adding a slot to cut 90 degree cuts in small work. It's like a bench hook and small mitre box (with only the 90 degree cut) in one. I like that. Could even add a 45 degree slot in there to make it a quick and easy mitre jig. Excellent work!
Thanks, i got the marking knife from Hobby Tools Australia. The Swann Morton knife you have to buy the handle and then choose the blades for it separately. This is the link to the handle - www.hobbytools.com.au/fixed-blade-h-d-knife-handle-sm00-swann-morton/ and the blades i got for it - www.hobbytools.com.au/swann-morton-sm-01-blades-box-of-50/ Hope this helps
Hi just a quick question, do you have any issues with moisture or humidity causing rust or mold. I live in North Queensland and interested in setting up a similar small workshop. Finding you channelvery informative.
I occasionally have some issues with rust on my tools particularly on my cast iron hand planes from humidity. A sealed tool cabinet helps with this as this issue usually occurs from dust holding moisture on the metal. Also dusting off the tools and applying paste wax on the metal surfaces of your tools which helps to mitigate this issue. I think moisture on your metal tools is common just have to mitigate it as much as possible and regularly check for rust and remove it before it causes and serious issues. However, I am happy to say i have not had any mold issues. I am from Perth so I'm sure it is more humid up in North Queensland and if the humidity is a big problem maybe a dehumidifier or moisture crystals absorbing crystals could be a solution if the above solutions aren't enough. Hope this helps you out.
Hey mate, I want to add a fence with 90 and 45° slots. How do I prevent the kerf getting wider everytime I use them? I think any saw except flush cut ones will take a bite off the kerf walls.
I am yet to come across a solution to prevent this problem, however there are a few ways I've found that minimizes this issue. 1- Use the same saw every time to ensure the saw plate thickness and set is the same each time 2- Use a hard wood for the fence. Most bench hooks are a sacrificial jig. The slots getting bigger over time is the reason i use double sided tape and screws to secure the fence and no glue, so i can replace it when it gets warn out to help keep it more accurate. I have never used a flush cut saw on my bench hook before, but i have used a dovetail saw with very little kerf set on it and even that does make the kerf cut wider over time. I do believe using a saw with no set or a flush cut saw could correct this problem, but it may make it harder to cut material without any set on the saw. Hope this helps you out.
The bench hook is primary used for sawing and protecting the bench from damage. I guess you could use a bench hook and your bench as a reference to 'shoot' the stock square, your bench would need to be flat for this. If you are referring to a shooting board then you could use a block plane on one. As long as the block plane can sit at 90 degrees to the bed and fence of the shooting board. However you are likely restricted to 'shooting' smaller stock as I'm not sure the block plane would have a enough mass to be used on on larger stock. Also depending how small the block plane is it could be difficult hold the block plane and keep it registered on the shooting board, this is the reason a larger plane is favored for the shooting board If your block plane is an older vintage style then the wings(side) not being perfectly 90 degrees to the sole of the plane is a common occurrence. I have a lot of vintage hand plane i have restored and not 1 of them has prefect square side The way they used to be cast didn't call for square wings as shooting boards are only a relatively new style of jig. In contrast, modern premium hand planes such as veritas and lie nielsen and a few mid range planes such as luban use CNC milling machines to ensure the wings are 100% square. This is the reason i have a modern shooting plane i use in a lot of my videos for my shooting board. One last thing with block planes, some times the wing aren't large enough to easily keep reference while using it on its side. Hope this helps
why dont you just use a single pencil line to mark out, multiple strokes with a marking knife seems totally unnecessary the fence doesnt need to be perfectly 90 degrees to the edge, the edge is not a reference point, use just glue instead of all those screws to attach the fence, it will never move , saves time effort and money, keep the fence back from the top edge so you can use a pull saw as well by placing the work on the other side of the fence, not trying to be critical just some useful points i have come across over time
@@teatarau If you don't want to make your work neat don't use the knife lines, these small projects are great times to learn. Plus i do use the end of the fence to reference my saw plate which is why i do it this way. The screws are used so the sacrificial fence can be replaced when torn up, keeping it as a reference for the saw < thus saving money and time not having to remake the bench hook. The reason i don't use these bench hooks for pull saw is, bench hooks are designed to be used with push cut saws giving them mechanical advantage of the bench hook pushing against the bench so they won't move, reverse this for a pull saw and that advantage is lost and would require you to hold the bench hook to stop it moving.
I've never seen that idea before - adding a slot to cut 90 degree cuts in small work. It's like a bench hook and small mitre box (with only the 90 degree cut) in one. I like that. Could even add a 45 degree slot in there to make it a quick and easy mitre jig. Excellent work!
Thanks Pete. You could definitely put a 45 degree in there, great idea.
These videos are amazing! I'm finding out what all the weird and wonderful things in my dads garage were for!
Glad you're enjoying the videos
goood starter to asve the bench...
Definitely, damage the bench hook, not the bench
Simple but effective. By the way where did you get that marking knife?
Thanks, i got the marking knife from Hobby Tools Australia. The Swann Morton knife you have to buy the handle and then choose the blades for it separately.
This is the link to the handle - www.hobbytools.com.au/fixed-blade-h-d-knife-handle-sm00-swann-morton/
and the blades i got for it - www.hobbytools.com.au/swann-morton-sm-01-blades-box-of-50/
Hope this helps
Hi just a quick question, do you have any issues with moisture or humidity causing rust or mold. I live in North Queensland and interested in setting up a similar small workshop. Finding you channelvery informative.
I occasionally have some issues with rust on my tools particularly on my cast iron hand planes from humidity. A sealed tool cabinet helps with this as this issue usually occurs from dust holding moisture on the metal. Also dusting off the tools and applying paste wax on the metal surfaces of your tools which helps to mitigate this issue. I think moisture on your metal tools is common just have to mitigate it as much as possible and regularly check for rust and remove it before it causes and serious issues. However, I am happy to say i have not had any mold issues.
I am from Perth so I'm sure it is more humid up in North Queensland and if the humidity is a big problem maybe a dehumidifier or moisture crystals absorbing crystals could be a solution if the above solutions aren't enough. Hope this helps you out.
Hey mate, I want to add a fence with 90 and 45° slots. How do I prevent the kerf getting wider everytime I use them? I think any saw except flush cut ones will take a bite off the kerf walls.
I am yet to come across a solution to prevent this problem, however there are a few ways I've found that minimizes this issue.
1- Use the same saw every time to ensure the saw plate thickness and set is the same each time
2- Use a hard wood for the fence.
Most bench hooks are a sacrificial jig. The slots getting bigger over time is the reason i use double sided tape and screws to secure the fence and no glue, so i can replace it when it gets warn out to help keep it more accurate.
I have never used a flush cut saw on my bench hook before, but i have used a dovetail saw with very little kerf set on it and even that does make the kerf cut wider over time.
I do believe using a saw with no set or a flush cut saw could correct this problem, but it may make it harder to cut material without any set on the saw.
Hope this helps you out.
@@AussieWoodshed thanks for the reply! Yeah I think it's best to treat the fence as a disposable part, just replace it whenever the kerf gets too big.
My block plane makes it come out not square. Block plane doesn't sit on its side perfectly straight 90°
The bench hook is primary used for sawing and protecting the bench from damage. I guess you could use a bench hook and your bench as a reference to 'shoot' the stock square, your bench would need to be flat for this. If you are referring to a shooting board then you could use a block plane on one.
As long as the block plane can sit at 90 degrees to the bed and fence of the shooting board. However you are likely restricted to 'shooting' smaller stock as I'm not sure the block plane would have a enough mass to be used on on larger stock. Also depending how small the block plane is it could be difficult hold the block plane and keep it registered on the shooting board, this is the reason a larger plane is favored for the shooting board
If your block plane is an older vintage style then the wings(side) not being perfectly 90 degrees to the sole of the plane is a common occurrence. I have a lot of vintage hand plane i have restored and not 1 of them has prefect square side The way they used to be cast didn't call for square wings as shooting boards are only a relatively new style of jig.
In contrast, modern premium hand planes such as veritas and lie nielsen and a few mid range planes such as luban use CNC milling machines to ensure the wings are 100% square. This is the reason i have a modern shooting plane i use in a lot of my videos for my shooting board.
One last thing with block planes, some times the wing aren't large enough to easily keep reference while using it on its side.
Hope this helps
why dont you just use a single pencil line to mark out, multiple strokes with a marking knife seems totally unnecessary
the fence doesnt need to be perfectly 90 degrees to the edge, the edge is not a reference point, use just glue instead of all those screws to attach the fence, it will never move , saves time effort and money, keep the fence back from the top edge so you can use a pull saw as well by placing the work on the other side of the fence, not trying to be critical just some useful points i have come across over time
@@teatarau If you don't want to make your work neat don't use the knife lines, these small projects are great times to learn. Plus i do use the end of the fence to reference my saw plate which is why i do it this way.
The screws are used so the sacrificial fence can be replaced when torn up, keeping it as a reference for the saw < thus saving money and time not having to remake the bench hook.
The reason i don't use these bench hooks for pull saw is, bench hooks are designed to be used with push cut saws giving them mechanical advantage of the bench hook pushing against the bench so they won't move, reverse this for a pull saw and that advantage is lost and would require you to hold the bench hook to stop it moving.
Plus it's a great for chisel work to protect the workbench
Yes it would be great for that too.