I was blessed enough to find one from Kyosho Village in Japan. The employees must have seen me posing in front of their Kyosho sign and knew I was a fan. They were so nice! Found an Optima Mid re-release and the Optima Worlds Anniversary kit! Both kits are still completely encased by clear plastic. Completely sealed and unopened. Thank you, Lord!
I was very lucky to get on to a kit asap. As you also know, there is considerable time and energy that goes into making content like ours. Each of us are giving it our all to both entertain and educate. As always I appreciate the compliments. Thank you Mick
Back in the day, the Optima was like Street Fighter II. There was the Optima, Turbo Optima, Optima Mid, Turbo Optima Mid, and Turbo Optima Mid SE- if I remember correctly.
Thanks for posting - I purchased one of these kits - its first one I've built since buying and building a Turbo Optima as a teenager back in the 80's so its a great video to refer to in building this machine. It's so cool that Kyosho have released this kit. Thanks again.
Beautiful vid Jason. Amazing detail on the comparisons to the old components, especially in the gearbox area. Finally a Mid that won't be chewing it's own gears up. The sintered gears in rere optima and Ultima are great
You're welcome. Having owned (and still do) all of the Optima Mids and a few Lazers I was keen to see how far they'd come with the rere. Being able to make all those comparisons was a bit tiring but worth it by the end.
Hi dear thank you for bringing memories my mum threw it in the bin in 1999 she was thinking i grew up and its only a kids toy!! I felt crying 😢 Whats the Cost today of a fully assembled 2022 with a radio controller?
Aaah, nostalgia. I remember during this era Kyoshos really made an impresson on me. The fine anodized shocks were simply called "Gold" and on the lower spec cars you would get the "Black Gold" which were a nicer word for plastic :). The only thing I still haven't figured out is why the earlier "black gold" were red plastic?
@@Bormac073 No, you can't please everyone. But you're always going to get haters! Look at people like Kevin Talbot. He's really successful, but tons of people hate on him too. They're just jealous because they're too lazy, incompetent or both. So much so that they can't do what you can and make a video like this. I like your video because it made me feel like I was building it just by watching it. It's cool how it's sped up just enough to see what you're doing, without getting bored. Keep up the content! 👍
wicked video ,im shocked it took so long for some one too release a vid , great detail showing the rear toe pills and the foam on belt covers and how the car has change from old/new like gears and wire holders well thought out , looks like it will be a vintage class weapon , well done mate
Many thanks Brad. I wanted to be the first to do a proper build video and show some of the key features and differences between the 2022 and 1987 model. It's easy to see this car will be great on the race track come vintage days.
Great video buddy, really takes me back to when i got mine for christmas in 87, was built that day & raced on boxing day, i'm a bit disappointed they haven't brought back the original shocks as i could have done with some spares but the belt tensioner is a nice touch, have not ordered one as yet as i still love my cats too much but i might get one to build with the kids in the future as they are running my swb cat atm & they scare me everytime they hit the track with it!!! haha
Thank you Mr Gains. I guess with all things, they were set to modernise part of it and yes the shocks take a little getting use to compared to what we once loved. Still, they are very good dampers.
I had a new original in 88 and raced it . The only problems I had were the pins on the driveshafts sheering off and tie rods breaking. Other than that bullet proof. In its defence I ran modified . Carpet was extremely hard on it , mostly I'd say from its weight being much heavier than the competition.
I thought about it but I usually only seal carbon fibre components. My intention is go full carbon this car. It takes a number of days to film, edit and so on. In the end I just wanted the car built and although I did see this suggestion in the manual its one that I chose to disregard.
Great first look at the new kit. Awesome work Jason, gave us a great quality look at the build. Love some of the updates, the threaded shocks are a nice option that no doubt will make it more useable in the future.
Outstanding work their mate. Enjoyed the vid. Kyosho have really made superb kits with these re-re's. Which reminds me, I've got to get around to finishing my Ultima re-re. I also have what I think is a combined original and re re Optima that needs a body and setting up.
Fantastic build video mate 👍 I say paint it in the Turbo Optima mid scheme. Awesome to see the changes from the original. I got mine yesterday, and I cannot wait to build it. Just have to finish a few other cars before I start however. I think Kyosho are releasing an aluminium option part for the drag link btw.
I like you idea on which way to go. Thank you David. I was surprised about the drag link considering it was metal as standard on their Ultima rere from a few years back.
@@Bormac073 Exactly what I thought. I am just finishing my Ultima and saw that the link was aluminium. Who knows why they decided plastic on this model? Surely it wouldn't have added much to the cost.
Nice build video, looking forward to building one of these myself after having rebuilt a couple of vintage ones. I see some nice improvements here and there, with the exception of the plastic link that joins the steering pivots. Also you have a very steady hand when cutting out the body.
@@Bormac073 Can the plastic link be replaced with the Ultima one? It does feel odd, with all their attention to detail, like the soft pads on the battery holders, to go for what seems like a cheap solution in the steering system with that drag link. It doesn't fit the premium feel that this kit has oozing all over in any other area.
Thanks for the video... I have the Turbo Optima Gold kit to build, and have been having a blast with my Ultima... I am torn as to whether or not to get a Mid.... Question, where does the ESC go? As far as colors and Stickers.... I like the blue Turbo stickers, but not on a yellow base color...?
This is the beauty, the body is clear so paint it however you like. I just went with the Turbo them because it brings back memories of seeing the Turbo Mid at my local track back in the day. Esc can go anywhere you can fit it 😅
hey great clip man, I just ordered one of these. I'm only 1 year into RC and I race 1/10 touring (nitro + electric). This is my first foray into the vintage buggy scene. I guess its mandatory to use a silver can? I'd prefer to use brushless - is this a daft idea? Nothing crazy (21.5T or something)
The club series I race in requires a Johnson 540J silver can in stock. Its our control motor so I wanted to test the car and new track layout as such with this motor. The car would handle a whole lot more power easily.
Back in the day grease was used, not oil. I don't consider my set up the ultimate modern race set up so I pack with grease to keep the gears lubed as was the design back in the 80's
Thank you Jason, I really enjoyed this. Kyosho Europe is still waiting for the kits that are stuck on the “slow boat from China”. That’s what you get when trying to do the right thing and buy locally 😳 next time I’m going back to ordering from Japan or HK.
Building mine currently, this video has been very useful for build tips. Did you bother glue the tyres or FRP edges? Personally I've just sanded the FRP and it seems OK (although may glue where body pin goes through), and the tyres are quite snug anyway. Curious to know what you've done.
Yes tyres were glued but no, I have never glued any edge of fibreglass sheet but I do on my carbon fibre. I intend to fit all c/f to this car in the near future. Gave it its second track run yesterday and its so well planted.
I see kit supplied grease was used for the differential. What others and myself found confusing is that Kyosho states we can use a diff. oil, however, provides no reference for a starting point. There are literally dozens of different weights! Any suggestions?
Hi GM. These 80's designs were only designed to incorporate grease back then so even though the housings have been modernised to accommodate oil, I just stick with the grease. Modern racers will know far more on this than I because it seems manufacturers have gone away from ball differentials in favour of oil filled gear units.
@@Bormac073 I appreciate your comment but my quality is terrible compared to you my friend. I run an excavator better then most. Videographer, not so much. Hopefully it will come with time.
@@rcicons4915 Keith you want to see me swing a hammer. Ive been a chippy (Carpenter/Builder) 20+ years. Learning to video and edit has been both frightening and rewarding
Hi dear thank you for the video, Is Everything i need to assemble is included like (lubes,and liquids to add ons) Or! What else i need to purchase (electronically) to run the car?
lovely job, im just about to build mine and ive decided to go brushless however im struggling to see where i can fit the Hobbywing MAX10 esc? it looks very tight and not much room for a fan cooled esc? any ideas?
Hi Doug. Im not familiar with much of the modern tech but with limited space Im running a budget 1060 basic brushed unit with a Johnson 540J motor. I am certain once someone comes up with a saddle chassis plate it will offer more real estate for bulky esc's to fit. The car doesn't need the latest BL gear to drive well.
Any luck with the ESC space Douglas ? I am in same boat and looking for a non-fan ESC that can take a hot brushless motor as the reviews for the Kyosho ones are underwhelming (and expensive)
@@0836whimper Hi, it's not the best solution but the only one I could think of, I've mounted it above the battery on double sided tape, for this I've modified the body shell and had to ream a large hole in the window, its been fine so far but I'm sure the fan will fail at some point?? Let me know if you find a better solution? Thanks
@@douglaspuglas6888 thank you for replying. I am trying to avoid any body mods so will try a fanless ESC, hot BL motor and 2S Lipo. I run a 9.5 BL turn motor on NiMh with a fanless ESC on a ReRe Egress fine, so we will see.
Hey guys. I've just bought this kit after 30 years since my last rc car. Can anyone tell me how much silicone grease to use in the differentials? I don't see that step in these video's so I'm not sure what the setup is. I've got some 15000 ready to go when I work it out. Cheers Nick in NZ
Just a question for all out there - I’m up to the stage of installing ESC. Really struggling to see how it can fit - space is very limited and it doesn’t screw into position as shown on manual as I’m using a different ESC. Any ideas?
Threadlocker 222 is low strength. I traditionally use the blue, but when my current bottle is finished. I will be getting the purple. Better for small screws.
@@David-Benjamin you know they have thread lock for multi-surface for stripped screw areas of the holes I think they have a multi-surface loctite that will go to strip plastic and stop it from falling out and not constantly turning.
I saw that you used a wire cutter and stripper to hold the shock shaft it doesn't matter up does it cause I could use that to hold my shock staffs when I want to put them together on any car please answer this.
@@Bogues_88 maybe you could look at the manual and see for yourself? In the AYK Pro Radiant and Boost shocks the 2 seals are slid in together. Im just following the manual my friend. Sorry to see this all bothers you but hey, you obviously have your own way of building things as do I. Its what makes the hobby so much fun.
@@Bormac073 yea the manual may well have it wrong .. you never put 2 oring together it's basic engineering. I just built a PR SCT and manual also had 2 oring together but on the parts tree the .36 mm shim that is meant to go between orings was right there .. with all the other shock pieces. Omissions and mistakes in instructions are common.
@@Bormac073 I didn't watch the entire video but what I did watch you did a very good job and especially showing comparisons between the two models. I know you put a lot of work and deserve a lot more views than idiots that get some cheap china crap for free take it to a skate park, or speed test overgeared crap and proceed to hype it for money. Keep up the good work. People that know appreciate the good work you do
I was blessed enough to find one from Kyosho Village in Japan. The employees must have seen me posing in front of their Kyosho sign and knew I was a fan. They were so nice! Found an Optima Mid re-release and the Optima Worlds Anniversary kit! Both kits are still completely encased by clear plastic. Completely sealed and unopened. Thank you, Lord!
The Optima Mid cars are a fantastic release from Kyosho and one I still am proud to own.
I owned turbo optima mid at that time🎉🎉 my precious toy 😊😊😊
Thank you for comparing the original to the rere. All the modifications they made to a legacy product is amazing.
Yes it is. Kyosho went and took these old designs and improved them in almost every way. Its a great time for vintage rc fans
Good stuff mate, first Mid build I've seen. Great video! 👍
I was very lucky to get on to a kit asap. As you also know, there is considerable time and energy that goes into making content like ours. Each of us are giving it our all to both entertain and educate.
As always I appreciate the compliments. Thank you Mick
Back in the day, the Optima was like Street Fighter II. There was the Optima, Turbo Optima, Optima Mid, Turbo Optima Mid, and Turbo Optima Mid SE- if I remember correctly.
I had the SE version. It was amazing and I babied it. Raced it a bit but mostly admired it. Was best looking RC ever in my opinion.
Thanks for posting - I purchased one of these kits - its first one I've built since buying and building a Turbo Optima as a teenager back in the 80's so its a great video to refer to in building this machine. It's so cool that Kyosho have released this kit. Thanks again.
Thank you Matt. Its a great time to be enjoying vintage rc
Beautiful vid Jason. Amazing detail on the comparisons to the old components, especially in the gearbox area. Finally a Mid that won't be chewing it's own gears up. The sintered gears in rere optima and Ultima are great
Many thanks. Its going to be the vintage 4WD to go to for vintage racing. Right out of the box its going to be a tough car to beat!
Your channel deserves to (and I am sure will) take off. Gorgeous footage. Professional editing. Keep up with the great work. 👍
I really appreciate your compliments, thank you David.
excellent video , thankyou for showing the differences between the old and new
You're welcome. Having owned (and still do) all of the Optima Mids and a few Lazers I was keen to see how far they'd come with the rere. Being able to make all those comparisons was a bit tiring but worth it by the end.
I just built this last weekend haha was a fun quick build. Everything fit perfect.
Thanks for putting the time and effort into this fantastic video! 👍 The Mid is really an enjoyable build 🙂
Many thanks Kai City RC. The Mid is worth it! Your videos are fantastic too.
Hi dear thank you for bringing memories my mum threw it in the bin in 1999 she was thinking i grew up and its only a kids toy!! I felt crying 😢
Whats the Cost today of a fully assembled 2022 with a radio controller?
That is rather unfortunate. Sorry to hear. Fortunately I boxed all my old gear up from when I use to race and it was like opening a time capsule.
Aaah, nostalgia. I remember during this era Kyoshos really made an impresson on me. The fine anodized shocks were simply called "Gold" and on the lower spec cars you would get the "Black Gold" which were a nicer word for plastic :). The only thing I still haven't figured out is why the earlier "black gold" were red plastic?
Yes.
I just finished building mine. What a satisfying experience! So where did you get the undercarriage protector? I'd love to get one for mine.
I really enjoyed this video series. Your formula works. Keep it up!
Thank you James. Believe it or not have actually given it a thumbs down behind the scenes. Seems you cant please everyone
@@Bormac073 No, you can't please everyone. But you're always going to get haters! Look at people like Kevin Talbot. He's really successful, but tons of people hate on him too. They're just jealous because they're too lazy, incompetent or both. So much so that they can't do what you can and make a video like this.
I like your video because it made me feel like I was building it just by watching it. It's cool how it's sped up just enough to see what you're doing, without getting bored.
Keep up the content! 👍
Great video! Funny that mine came with a little bottle of blue thread lock.
Professionally done my friend, impressive. I ordered one myself, looks like an easy build. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome and I appreciate the compliment.
Amazing! Looks like an awesome build! I am very jealous 😂
Thank you OAG RC. I have been waiting a long time for this one. I have all the other Mids so I was keen to get the rerelease also.
wicked video ,im shocked it took so long for some one too release a vid , great detail showing the rear toe pills and the foam on belt covers and how the car has change from old/new like gears and wire holders well thought out , looks like it will be a vintage class weapon , well done mate
Many thanks Brad. I wanted to be the first to do a proper build video and show some of the key features and differences between the 2022 and 1987 model. It's easy to see this car will be great on the race track come vintage days.
Awesome build video my friend 😊👊🏻
Many thanks Glenn 😁😁👍👍. You know the kind of work that goes in to making decent content and this one surely kept me busy.
Many thank again my friend 😎
Great video I've got one back ordered in the US can't wait to get it.
Its a worthwhile investment. Will be a great car for vintage race events
Superb video man!! I love to see the differences!! Thumbs up for sharing!!
You're welcome
Excellent video and really enjoyed the content - thanks for all your hard work in bringing this to everyone
Thank you Chris. A lot goes in to making these kind of videos and it's good to hear they are well received
Great video, I like the colour of the original chassis you showed
The TURBO & TURBO SE each has the bronze anodised chassis. Really nice but a little hard to find in pristine condition.
Absolutely gorgeous kit!!!
The Mid really is very nice with soo many improvements made to the original design.
Thank you M-B
Really cool un boxing video optima mid always my dream buggy👍👍👍👍
Yes the rerelease is a welcome addition to the line up and it really does not dissappoint
Great video buddy, really takes me back to when i got mine for christmas in 87, was built that day & raced on boxing day, i'm a bit disappointed they haven't brought back the original shocks as i could have done with some spares but the belt tensioner is a nice touch, have not ordered one as yet as i still love my cats too much but i might get one to build with the kids in the future as they are running my swb cat atm & they scare me everytime they hit the track with it!!! haha
Thank you Mr Gains. I guess with all things, they were set to modernise part of it and yes the shocks take a little getting use to compared to what we once loved. Still, they are very good dampers.
I had a new original in 88 and raced it . The only problems I had were the pins on the driveshafts sheering off and tie rods breaking. Other than that bullet proof. In its defence I ran modified . Carpet was extremely hard on it , mostly I'd say from its weight being much heavier than the competition.
Wow man, never heard or even seen those things happen any car let along a Kyosho
Great video, will be a help when I build my kit. I noticed you did not seal the edges of the FRP.. is this just going to be a shelf queen.
I thought about it but I usually only seal carbon fibre components. My intention is go full carbon this car.
It takes a number of days to film, edit and so on. In the end I just wanted the car built and although I did see this suggestion in the manual its one that I chose to disregard.
That's good to see this. Thanks, great build 👍🏼
Cheers. Kyosho have spoiled us with this release. Im looking forward to hitting the track soon with this car! 🥰
With mine I'm going to buy an extra body and make both versions!!!
Great first look at the new kit. Awesome work Jason, gave us a great quality look at the build. Love some of the updates, the threaded shocks are a nice option that no doubt will make it more useable in the future.
Thank you Adam. The new release kit is everything I knew it would be.
Outstanding work their mate. Enjoyed the vid. Kyosho have really made superb kits with these re-re's.
Which reminds me, I've got to get around to finishing my Ultima re-re. I also have what I think is a combined original and re re Optima that needs a body and setting up.
Thank you Pablo. The Mid really lifts their game. A definite performer ready to hit the race track.
Fantastic build video mate 👍
I say paint it in the Turbo Optima mid scheme.
Awesome to see the changes from the original.
I got mine yesterday, and I cannot wait to build it. Just have to finish a few other cars before I start however.
I think Kyosho are releasing an aluminium option part for the drag link btw.
I like you idea on which way to go. Thank you David.
I was surprised about the drag link considering it was metal as standard on their Ultima rere from a few years back.
@@Bormac073
Exactly what I thought.
I am just finishing my Ultima and saw that the link was aluminium.
Who knows why they decided plastic on this model?
Surely it wouldn't have added much to the cost.
Nice build video, looking forward to building one of these myself after having rebuilt a couple of vintage ones. I see some nice improvements here and there, with the exception of the plastic link that joins the steering pivots. Also you have a very steady hand when cutting out the body.
Isn't is strange that Kyosho put a plastic drag link rather than the metal one they put in with their Ultima.
@@Bormac073 Can the plastic link be replaced with the Ultima one? It does feel odd, with all their attention to detail, like the soft pads on the battery holders, to go for what seems like a cheap solution in the steering system with that drag link. It doesn't fit the premium feel that this kit has oozing all over in any other area.
@@rc-fannl7364 i completely agree. At some point Im going to look into swapping it over with the Ultimas
@@Bormac073 I'd be very interested in hearing your findings on this.
Thanks for the video... I have the Turbo Optima Gold kit to build, and have been having a blast with my Ultima... I am torn as to whether or not to get a Mid....
Question, where does the ESC go?
As far as colors and Stickers.... I like the blue Turbo stickers, but not on a yellow base color...?
This is the beauty, the body is clear so paint it however you like. I just went with the Turbo them because it brings back memories of seeing the Turbo Mid at my local track back in the day.
Esc can go anywhere you can fit it 😅
hey great clip man, I just ordered one of these. I'm only 1 year into RC and I race 1/10 touring (nitro + electric). This is my first foray into the vintage buggy scene. I guess its mandatory to use a silver can? I'd prefer to use brushless - is this a daft idea? Nothing crazy (21.5T or something)
The club series I race in requires a Johnson 540J silver can in stock. Its our control motor so I wanted to test the car and new track layout as such with this motor. The car would handle a whole lot more power easily.
What a kit! Excellent! Thank you
Thank you Sam. The car really is Kyosho's best vintage series release to date.
@@Bormac073 Oh, and no matter what color you chose, it will be great! Thanks for sharing your passion
Good video 👍
Thanks
Nice bud i bought a chassis from the states. The entire drive system was chewed up as little stones would enter gearboxes etc
When the lexan belt covers were correctly sealed the drive line usually stays clean.
Awesome video friend thank you very much.
Its good knowing people appreciate it. Thank you
Can’t wait to receive mine.😍🙌
It will be like xmas
Great video.
I see you used Grease instead of diff oil. Any pros or cons?
I just received this kit and was curious about oil vs Grease.
Back in the day grease was used, not oil. I don't consider my set up the ultimate modern race set up so I pack with grease to keep the gears lubed as was the design back in the 80's
@@Bormac073 Sounds good to me. I'm doing the same, just grease. This is my first optima build and was afraid I must use oil. Thanks for the reply.
You know I wish kyosho would remake all their old brushed motors I also feel the same way about Tamiya.
At least Kyosho paid homage to some of their old motors by releasing brushless beauties to keep the aesthetic alive in modern times.
Look into the Kyosho LeMans 490 brushed motor. Its relatively new release and its brushed. Why dont you order one and review it on your channel?
Very nice! That brings back some 1980s memories. I never had an Optima Mid my first and only 4wd was the Lazer ZX but I guess it's the same lineage!
Thankfully Kyosho has taken us back in time and given us all the opportunity to enjoy this platform again
Great video
Where did you get your motor from
Looking to put one in my Ultima Pro
Hi Levin. Ebay or user groups on FB.
Thank you Jason, I really enjoyed this. Kyosho Europe is still waiting for the kits that are stuck on the “slow boat from China”. That’s what you get when trying to do the right thing and buy locally 😳 next time I’m going back to ordering from Japan or HK.
Compliments like this coming from you Tom are great fully received. Thank you.
Building mine currently, this video has been very useful for build tips. Did you bother glue the tyres or FRP edges? Personally I've just sanded the FRP and it seems OK (although may glue where body pin goes through), and the tyres are quite snug anyway. Curious to know what you've done.
Yes tyres were glued but no, I have never glued any edge of fibreglass sheet but I do on my carbon fibre. I intend to fit all c/f to this car in the near future. Gave it its second track run yesterday and its so well planted.
I see kit supplied grease was used for the differential. What others and myself found confusing is that Kyosho states we can use a diff. oil, however, provides no reference for a starting point. There are literally dozens of different weights! Any suggestions?
Hi GM. These 80's designs were only designed to incorporate grease back then so even though the housings have been modernised to accommodate oil, I just stick with the grease. Modern racers will know far more on this than I because it seems manufacturers have gone away from ball differentials in favour of oil filled gear units.
@@Bormac073 Excellent dude. I'll go with the Kyosho clear silicone grease. It's in the kit, we paid for it, might as well use it! haha
awesome car!
Kyosho really did this design a real service
Does the rere come with both decal options or did you order the Turbo Optima Mid SE ones separately?
The first release kit did.
Great video Jason. Outstanding work as usual. My kit should be in my hands in the next week. Looking forward to it.
Many thanks Keith. I appreciate the compliment. Ive just watched back your video of you unveiling the RCL's again. Your quality is improving also.
@@Bormac073 I appreciate your comment but my quality is terrible compared to you my friend. I run an excavator better then most. Videographer, not so much. Hopefully it will come with time.
@@rcicons4915 Keith you want to see me swing a hammer. Ive been a chippy (Carpenter/Builder) 20+ years. Learning to video and edit has been both frightening and rewarding
Very well done video.
Thank you
I dont want to shit on Tamiya but damn Kyoshos packaging is next level
There are people who will get hung up on it but I prefer to build and drive most of my stuff
Hi dear thank you for the video,
Is Everything i need to assemble is included like (lubes,and liquids to add ons) Or!
What else i need to purchase (electronically) to run the car?
Hi there. There is shock oil and grease but you'll need thread locking compound.
Turbo!!!! 😃 Beautiful build Jason top notch!!!
Thank you again Wade. Im glad you enjoyed it.
I am currently building my kit. Did you go with a brushless motor? If so, what did you go with?
Hi Kevin. At this stage I have only run the Johnson 540J silver can motor but teamed up with a modern lip out the track the car drives well.
Nice model!!!
Kyosho did really well
nice 80s retro synthwave...
Yeah I am really liking some of the music choices I have found
Can we purchase the one way bearings for optima buggy nowadays?
I mean the re realsed ones...,
Im not aware of it. Perhaps check with your local hobby shop?
lovely job, im just about to build mine and ive decided to go brushless however im struggling to see where i can fit the Hobbywing MAX10 esc? it looks very tight and not much room for a fan cooled esc? any ideas?
Hi Doug. Im not familiar with much of the modern tech but with limited space Im running a budget 1060 basic brushed unit with a Johnson 540J motor.
I am certain once someone comes up with a saddle chassis plate it will offer more real estate for bulky esc's to fit.
The car doesn't need the latest BL gear to drive well.
Any luck with the ESC space Douglas ? I am in same boat and looking for a non-fan ESC that can take a hot brushless motor as the reviews for the Kyosho ones are underwhelming (and expensive)
@@0836whimper Hi, it's not the best solution but the only one I could think of, I've mounted it above the battery on double sided tape, for this I've modified the body shell and had to ream a large hole in the window, its been fine so far but I'm sure the fan will fail at some point??
Let me know if you find a better solution? Thanks
@@douglaspuglas6888 thank you for replying. I am trying to avoid any body mods so will try a fanless ESC, hot BL motor and 2S Lipo. I run a 9.5 BL turn motor on NiMh with a fanless ESC on a ReRe Egress fine, so we will see.
@@0836whimper I hope it works out for you because it's not ideal what I've done so maybe I'll switch to your way?
Where did you get the chassis under tray from?
Penguin
Hey guys. I've just bought this kit after 30 years since my last rc car. Can anyone tell me how much silicone grease to use in the differentials? I don't see that step in these video's so I'm not sure what the setup is. I've got some 15000 ready to go when I work it out.
Cheers
Nick in NZ
Just pack it in enough so that it's offering the gears some resistance. Worked well for me.
I’ve wondered how well this would do racing against the never vehicles given it was one of the first mid motor 4WD buggies
Having driven it now at the Casso track, totally out of the box standard, the car drives super well!
It will only get better with tuning
Nice..I always wanted one
Forrunately Kyosho have released a cracker for us to own
@@Bormac073 Still only preorder in the states
@@philthyco1 yes its a little bit sad. I only got mine a few days ago so its been a real mission getting this video up on YT
This car is going to dominate vintage racing.
You are not wrong Paul. It's going to lift the bar. Right out of the box its easy to see this car will be popular with the racers. Many thanks Paul.
will this stand up to brush less 10.5t
There's only one way to find out 😆
still backordered here in the US 😫
Oh man 😩. Thats really not cool. Sorry to hear this Nick
@@Bormac073 holy crap, mine shipped yesterday finally! yaaaaaaaay, can't wait :)
@@nickkalister6291 you'll soon find out what a great build this release is. Lots of great asvancements
Just a question for all out there - I’m up to the stage of installing ESC. Really struggling to see how it can fit - space is very limited and it doesn’t screw into position as shown on manual as I’m using a different ESC. Any ideas?
The smaller the esc the better. In both the rere and the original I mounted the esc on the top deck
@@Bormac073 thanks for that - think I will go down that path too
Does it take 2.2 wheels?
Yes
Where did you mount your ESC?
As per the manual you can squeeze a Quikrun 1060 in there
i love to have one
Available at retail now
What did you apply at 5:31?
CA glue
Thanks for your reply. I built the original one in the old days, can’t remember if any glue needs to be applied 😅
Turbo pls
Can the gearbox and pulley system take a hot brushless system like 5, 000kv or up?
Probably could take an atomic bomb!
groovy ass build lol i was stuck & watched the whole thing :) i had the original as a kid
Its good to hear people getting value from this content I create. Thank you Shane
Why red loctite wouldn't that be a problem if you had to replace the gear diffs?
Its purple.
Threadlocker 222 is low strength.
I traditionally use the blue, but when my current bottle is finished. I will be getting the purple.
Better for small screws.
@@David-Benjamin precisely. No one needs to be using loc-stud 😆
@@David-Benjamin you know they have thread lock for multi-surface for stripped screw areas of the holes I think they have a multi-surface loctite that will go to strip plastic and stop it from falling out and not constantly turning.
I saw that you used a wire cutter and stripper to hold the shock shaft it doesn't matter up does it cause I could use that to hold my shock staffs when I want to put them together on any car please answer this.
Its a broad blunt smooth crimping surface. Not cutting. I utilise this so not to damage the shock shaft
@@Bormac073 should just hold the very bottom not top also 2 oring should never go next to each other should always be something between them
@@Bogues_88 maybe you could look at the manual and see for yourself? In the AYK Pro Radiant and Boost shocks the 2 seals are slid in together. Im just following the manual my friend.
Sorry to see this all bothers you but hey, you obviously have your own way of building things as do I. Its what makes the hobby so much fun.
@@Bormac073 yea the manual may well have it wrong .. you never put 2 oring together it's basic engineering. I just built a PR SCT and manual also had 2 oring together but on the parts tree the .36 mm shim that is meant to go between orings was right there .. with all the other shock pieces. Omissions and mistakes in instructions are common.
@@Bormac073 I didn't watch the entire video but what I did watch you did a very good job and especially showing comparisons between the two models. I know you put a lot of work and deserve a lot more views than idiots that get some cheap china crap for free take it to a skate park, or speed test overgeared crap and proceed to hype it for money. Keep up the good work. People that know appreciate the good work you do
turbo optima mid
SPA240!!
Yes sir. I say if you are going to do it, do it with style 😍
I was told that the "red"thread lock was permanent
Im using the purple threadlock. Been using it for years and its never been a problem getting threads undone
@@Bormac073 ok to me it looked like a bottle
어렸을 때에 교쇼 잡지보며 참 부러워했는데, 하지만 이것을 아직도 우려먹으니 경쟁에 뒤쳐지죠. 요즘 시절에 브러시드 모터로 버기를 만들다니, 카본 샤시도 아니고 알루미늄 판에 플라스틱 부품들... 아주 후지네요.