Thanks for the video .... My tips: 1. thread a rope or strap through the spare wheel as a leash in case you lose control. 2. You can dig out under around the tyre (sometimes depending on the surface) if your jack is short or it feels sketchy as you raise the vehicle - also means you spend less time under the vehicle operating the jack (which is the most danger to yourself) 3. Take out any emergency supplies before you start the operation (water, medication, comms equipment, first aid, etc) - in case it goes badly, you don't want to have to get in or out of the vehicle if it shifts into a dangerous position. 4. Sometimes it's worth damaging the tyre and wheel by moving the vehicle, rather than attempting the change where the vehicle is - use your judgement, which problem do you want to have to face if it doesn't turn out well (if you have supplies and expect help to arrive or pass by versus if you are "nowhere" and you have no choice but to try the repair)
Def. agree on tying the spare to the vehicle. If it gets away from you, you may never find it. I'd also put a separate safety rope from the vehicle to the tree, or ideally a different anchor point. Good on ya doing a video on this.
Matt, If I were were you, I would have placed the spare under the car before you started jacking that way, should the car fall off the jack that then car doesn't fall to the ground making it almost impossible to fit a jack under it again..
Beat me to it. Also, Matt your body was open to the potential of being crushed while you were underneath operating the jack. Yes you had the flat tyre still on the hub, but with wheel nuts loosened/removed, there was potential for a disaster to occur.
Good point, I didn’t pick up on that. In a situation like this to prevent the “falling” off the jack scenario the text book approach is to “bump” the car hard trying to push it off the jack. Depending on the situation, putting the wheel under the car can be challenging. But yeah agree, if possible do it. When on unstable ground (also doesn’t harm in your garage) 1. Try to push off the jack 2. Put wheel under the car
I think you did a great job of making the best of a 'bad' situation with the sort of gear most people would have on hand. About the only thing I could think of to add would be to loosely tether the spare as you lifted it down - that way are are focussed on lowering it as safely as possible without needing to stop a runaway.
For me a decent rattle gun is a life saver. It gets the wheel nuts of without having to apply leverage and it gets it done in a jiffy. The less time on the jack the better,
Good job. I ripped a sidewall on a rock on a hill, but since the tire was ruined, I drove on it until I got to a flat area. I used the tools that came with the Bronco, which were barely usable, but did the job. Thanks for the video.
going double line is a great idea for controlling speed if needed. thought I'd add a few points. When removing the spare I find that standing downhill and having the spare uphill of you makes it easier to catch and less chance of loosing your footing or your spare. Throwing the spare under the vehicle can be a good idea, especially if your underneath while winding up and down on the jack. I also like to angle the jack so you can wind from the side of the vehicle instead of straight on like you had, where you have to get underneath
Did a good job with explaining and demonstrating a tough task in some tough comditions. Only things i can think of to maybe do differently would be these. Place the spare wheel under the car just in case it comes off the jack. If you have a compressor pump the tyre up so you dont have to jack as much would also let you know if the tyre is repairable or not and if not then you can chose to drive on it to a safer location to change it if you want. Take the spare tyre off with the door or carrier in the secured position.
We used to teach “tyre change on a hill” as part of SISODRV302A trainings. Your basics and thought process are spot on. 1 additional must do - try to push the car off the jack by giving it a good bump BEFORE taking off the wheel (more often than not it will fall off the jack) 2 potential options to improve safety - use a ratchet strap to secure side (more import when side slope becomes a factor) - when done, put the tyre iron in the passenger footwell (to remember to check the wheel nuts in 50k or to grab the torque wrench when home, etc) Plus the normal things to add on top if there are bystanders or “helpers” I instructed that many times in controlled environment, lucky only had to use it (modified) once when I had a rapid flat. That was on the CSR, by myself and just shy of the top of the biggest sand dune there - no, it’s never fun or easy.
I appreciate you setting up the scenario in a realistic environment. Any of these steps can challenge the novice on a clean flat surface of a garage. Real world best place to train. I’ve learned in life, “planning is everything. When stuff hits the fan, plans mean nothing.” All the things that were never considered that can bite us and distract us, i.e. having a life element of nature join you right at the moment you dare not let go ( insects, snakes, etc). Of course seems weather is never ideal. Temperature extremes add to level of difficulty. Blazing inferno hot, or perishing cold . Anticipating the un foreseeable
I could see a couple of things that certain situations could have been very helpful. 1. Make sure the wheel will actually come off before you Jack the car up. Sometimes, it can be stuck even without having any nuts. 2. Have something to prop up the car while it is on the jack, so if it falls, it doesn't drop down completely.
Great video Matt and as you said we never need to change a tyre in the most ideal place. A while back now I had a jack collapse under the car on relatively flat ground while using a companies products (Not mentioning names) and when I went back to them they blamed it on the fact the ground wasn't perfectly flat. I was a bit stunned when I heard that as the product is designed for 4wd's and as you said we never get the most ideal locations. I would be very nervous changing a wheel in the location you are on here but you added all the safety gear to make it as safe as you can.
Great video. I’m glad you suggested using a bridle and strap when you don’t have a winch. I don’t have a winch and probably wouldn’t have thought to use my recovery gear to secure the vehicle. Another lesson learned. Cheers.
Hi Matt, not sure if you’ve just done that subconsciously but I think it’s worth while to call out. From the moment the wheel nuts come off until the wheel nuts go back on - no one is in the car, no one opens doors, gets their water bottle, etc. avoiding any weight shift/movement.
Great demo. I think I would have performed this in the same manner had I found myself in the same predicament without seeing your demo however it may have taken me some time to come up with the idea of anchoring the vehicle to a tree and reversing down the hill to tension the system if my winch had failed. So thank you for performing this exercise because it will save me time and give me confidence should I need to do it in the future. Thanks MM, cheers
Excellent topjc and video Matt. Thank you! I have a 3" square piece of 25mm ply and a 3" square of 3mm rubber i put between jack and chassis if I think the jack might slip off when jacking on uneven ground. One of my jacks does have a peg sticking up that fits into holes in the chassis rails and also in holes in the lower suspension arms. I'll utilize this first but if I can't, I always use the wooden block if bottle jack is used. Metal on metal can slip if things are not aligned nicely.
I had a few tips, but it looks like everyone here has covered them. The only thing I'll add is that I have a similar bottle jack in my 4Runner, and I purchased a off-road base meant for a hi-lift jack, but it fits perfectly with the factory bottle jack. I would feel a lot more secure having the bottle jack on that rather than the ground. I also carry a breaker bar with an impact socket that fits my wheel nuts for everyday use, but when I'm out on the trail I also keep an electric impact with me.
Thank you for the input😀👍🏼 Makes me rethink my setup and possibilities. I've plugged 2 tires in a similar situation and refilled them, but propably would have avoided changing them.
oh bad situation. First I would always try to refill the tire, might just last 1 min, then do it again. Ok if the tire is so damaged, that a refill will not help, it is destroyed anyway, so you can go up/down even with the flat tire. But you are right, there can still be the situation, where you have to change it. But then I would have turned the jack, so you do not have to be underneath the car. Just by turning it 10..20 degree, would the crank handle be moreless outside already? I carry the high jack with a rim adapter with me and a stand for underneath the axle. This works perfect and you do not have to be worried about the less travel of the original jack. thanks Matt for your teaching and the push of rethinking all that stuff.
The Toyota jack is one of the best jacks in the world. It will go up like 15 inches. There is not a lot said about that. But, Folks who know will tell you the same. I would have used an impact wrench for the lug nuts and the jack. Makes it easier. But overall great job!
I think the option of using a strap and letting the vehicle rest against it is better than using the winch. You could achieve it with winch rope too, but if you let the vehicle rest against it, then you know its at an equilibrium where its not going to go up or downhill. Let it settle completely on the rope, then apply handbrake and 4 low, then you can confidently jack up the car without too much chance of it wanting to move.
Always clean the mating surfaces (wheel and hub), a few grains of sand/dirt falling down, slowly crushing on the corrugations/rough tracks will create a loose lug nut situation, often the cause of buggered studs and rims. Very important for alloy rims which do not 'coin'. Tie a strap to spare and towbar when dropping it off the bracket, wont roll off down the steep hill.
In my experience, it can be fairly risky driving on flat tires. I did this once, just moving an old parts car sitting in the paddock. Tyres were flat and came off the rim almost straight away, damaged the valve, and could not pump them up later this was on soft grass simply trying to save a little bit of time made things take a lot longer that day.
Thanks Matt. Wondering if you might loosely strap the spare to the vehicle before taking it off the back in the event you lose it and it ends up hidden in the bush 500m away, and, once it's safely flat on the ground, strapping the flat before taking it off the hub. And whack the spare under the vehicle should the jack let go.
I would definitely carry two of the Toyota jacks...they are very small and light weight for what they are. With two jacks you can lift the axle as you did and set up the other one on a frame rail in case the axle lifting jack should shoot out due to the spring tension, off camber, steep incline and loose terrain conditions. They Toyota jacks are superior to the hydraulic pump jacks (where 99% of them are made in China) since they cannot "collapse" like a hydraulic unit can making the Toyota unit a viable jack stand. I don't own a Toyota but I do own their bottle jacks! One product recommendation I would make is installing an adapter to the Toyota jack that allows you to use a wrench, ratchet or electric drill instead of that damn long handled torture devices that come from the factory.
Good comment and thoughts. Ive adapted the jacks in the past to have a socket on them. But you can't use a rattle gun to drive them as it busts things. But a drill works well.
I would position the jack winder to face out the side so I would be clear of the body instead of laying under it to wind jack up, also would have the spare under ths car body incase jack slipped.
If the tire can be plugged, I would make sure the car does not roll back then plug the tire while it is still on the vehicle. I would do that this way: inflate the tire so that it resist the pressure from being pushed against the wheel as you try to clean and plug the puncture hole. Next plug the whole and this step my require alot more pressure than can be applied by a person in such a position. If this is the case, drive up just a bit so that the hole forms an angle with the surface in front of the tire that is around 45 degrees. Use a scissor jack or any jack that would fit and work at an angle to push the tire plugging tool into the tire. Difficult part is done. Pull the tire plugging tool away adjust tire pressure to desired value trim extra plug sticking out of the tire if you so desire. And done .. tried this with a 2 ton harbor freight trolley jack worked effortlessly ..was not on hill just a parking lot though
Yes it's possible to change the tyre, like you showed to us, but i would prefer to do this on flat surface. So i would use my winch to clime up the hill, if this is the shorter way, or i would secured by ma winch go down. Because we don't know how stable the underground is, there could be lose surface, which can start a land slide just in tha moment we are on the ground for positioning the jack and all the security helps the rig to fall just right on us.
Matt, is it possible to make a longer handle for the jack that would extend out from under the vehicle? DOM tubing, perhaps? Also, I like to use a 4 way cross wrench (not sure of the AUS name☺) as you can spin the lug nuts on a bit faster w/o arching your arm around, just support the non-lug end and spin...
I don't normally advocate for using a hi-lift for a wheel change, but this seems like one of the few times it would have been a lot more comfortable. 😅 When you were taking the spare off the back I was thinking you might loop a ratchet strap between it and the rear wheel you were removing, so you could focus on maintaining your own balance and let the wheel go if need be. I hope I'm never in a situation where I have to do the same, but great video nonetheless.
Although training says “do it on a flat surface”… nothing goes the plan in the real world. So this is certainly worth exploring. Maybe not even a tyre change, maybe some other similar mechanical scenario. If you can imagine it, it could happen. Couple of things, any adjustment on the winch. Apply standard safeguards… (don’t be under the car 😂) Don’t secure the car using a kinetic strap or rope. It’s the last time in the world you’d want any “boing”.
Well explained, but I think it would be better not to have your head/upper body under the vehicle when operating the jack, in case the jack slips. Greetings from Germany.
The only things I would have done differently is to have my body downhill from the tire so i would be in a position to stop a runaway tire. Also, i might have turned the jack a bit so that I wasn't under the truck and could spin without obstruction. We actually had this exact scenario happen 2 yrs ago. We all carry a lot of tools. 3 tom floor jack, breaker bar, power impact gun and torque wrench. We had the guy's tire back on in no time. I helped roll the wheels which i ensured i was downhill. If it gets away, there's no stopping it. It could kill somebody downhill from you.
Probably the only things I would have done differently would be to keep a tyre (the spare and then the flat) under the car should it come down. Other thing I would have done is drive the car a short distance and then rechecked the wheel nuts in case the tyre was on a funny angle when it was being tightened. Probably not really necessary, but better safe than sorry.
Totally get what your doing and why, but why not try and air up tyre first. After securing the vechle. And if it will not take air its done for anyway, so sacrifice the tyre. As some people will cut corners. Safety first.
Great topic! I’ve had to do that and did something similar. I’ve also had a situation where my jack wouldn’t work. To change the tyre without a jack, I found a close location where I could get the vehicle to do a “wheel lift” on the offending tyre and changed it whilst in the air. Different situations require a different solution, just take a minute or two and think the situation through.
I don't think the risk is worth the reward. The tyre is already damaged and that damage could be fatal anyway. Roll to the bottom of the hill where the vehicle is naturally stable and change it there.
@@MadMatt4WD You mean what if the tyre is serviceable? Still, I reckon its a huge risk trying to change it on such a steep track... I think to myself if the tyre is flat, isn't possible its been rendered unusable in the last 10 meters it took to realise it was flat? Its a risk thing - why risk it for the sake of a tyre?
So i'm not avocating this as the best way to do this as it's not. But i wanted to explore what if you have no choice to take a wheel of on a steep hill? how do you do it and what are the challenges? I've had people share times where theyve had to do it so it's a real senario.
@@MadMatt4WD That was understood, and a great scenario to explore. I'm sure its made a lot of us think through what we personally would do n such a situation and, if cornered and had to replace the wheel on the slope,, what to expect. I for one had not considered this scenario until you bought it up and I am sure there are many of us with a little more off road grey matter!
Ok, so first of all. That’s not a double line pull. For a double line pull the pulley must be connected to the load! It’s simple physics. A very common mistake by 4wders! As for the tyre change, well you’re completely overthinking it!😂 Unless you’re tyre is completely demolished, any 4wder should have a compressor with them, pump tyre up & drive the vehicle to a flat spot & then change it!🙄 Chances are the tyre would only need hold air for a couple of minutes to get the vehicle into a better position!😂
What if you have to remove the wheel for a mechanical issue such as a seized bearing or a brake which has locked on. And you’re assuming slow leak. What if it’s a slash that can be trail repaired but won’t hold air.
You better unpack your understanding of a double line pull because as I understand what you’ve said you’ve introduced a concept I’ve never seen described as double line pull. And a quick search on lifting sites rigging sites suggest I’m correct.
Of course there are exceptions! But in your video u have a simple flat & the tyres looks pretty intact. 🤣🤣 Nup. All you’ve done is set up is a redirection! Try this, tie a rope around your waist, put the rope through a pulley above you, now lift yourself up! Mechanical advantage? Nope!👎 This only changes the direction of the rope. To give u mechanical advantage a pulley must move, it can’t be fixed! This is a common trap for young players. The only thing this achieves (which is why ppl think it’s a double line pull) is it uses more rope off your winch drum, thus making the diameter of the drum smaller & reducing the load on the winch. If the pulley was connected to a vehicle & u were pulling that vehicle, then yes. That would be a double line pull, because the pulley is moving because it’s connected to the load. You learn all about this stuff when u do a lifting & cranage course.👍
thanks for explaining but with all due respect this is not a redirect because the line comes back to the vehicle at the bridal. How do you propose it should be set up to create the double line vpull as you’re suggesting? Fyi I’ve had my rigger and crane operator tickets.
Thanks for the video ....
My tips:
1. thread a rope or strap through the spare wheel as a leash in case you lose control.
2. You can dig out under around the tyre (sometimes depending on the surface) if your jack is short or it feels sketchy as you raise the vehicle - also means you spend less time under the vehicle operating the jack (which is the most danger to yourself)
3. Take out any emergency supplies before you start the operation (water, medication, comms equipment, first aid, etc) - in case it goes badly, you don't want to have to get in or out of the vehicle if it shifts into a dangerous position.
4. Sometimes it's worth damaging the tyre and wheel by moving the vehicle, rather than attempting the change where the vehicle is - use your judgement, which problem do you want to have to face if it doesn't turn out well (if you have supplies and expect help to arrive or pass by versus if you are "nowhere" and you have no choice but to try the repair)
Def. agree on tying the spare to the vehicle. If it gets away from you, you may never find it.
I'd also put a separate safety rope from the vehicle to the tree, or ideally a different anchor point.
Good on ya doing a video on this.
I like the emergency supplies idea.
Matt, If I were were you, I would have placed the spare under the car before you started jacking that way, should the car fall off the jack that then car doesn't fall to the ground making it almost impossible to fit a jack under it again..
Good point I like this idea
Beat me to it. Also, Matt your body was open to the potential of being crushed while you were underneath operating the jack.
Yes you had the flat tyre still on the hub, but with wheel nuts loosened/removed, there was potential for a disaster to occur.
Yes sir no matter the angle. Safety
Good point, I didn’t pick up on that. In a situation like this to prevent the “falling” off the jack scenario the text book approach is to “bump” the car hard trying to push it off the jack.
Depending on the situation, putting the wheel under the car can be challenging. But yeah agree, if possible do it.
When on unstable ground (also doesn’t harm in your garage)
1. Try to push off the jack
2. Put wheel under the car
I think you did a great job of making the best of a 'bad' situation with the sort of gear most people would have on hand. About the only thing I could think of to add would be to loosely tether the spare as you lifted it down - that way are are focussed on lowering it as safely as possible without needing to stop a runaway.
Yes
For me a decent rattle gun is a life saver. It gets the wheel nuts of without having to apply leverage and it gets it done in a jiffy. The less time on the jack the better,
I agree and normally use one. But in this video I wanted to keep it basic to ensure honesty
Good job. I ripped a sidewall on a rock on a hill, but since the tire was ruined, I drove on it until I got to a flat area. I used the tools that came with the Bronco, which were barely usable, but did the job. Thanks for the video.
That makes sense.
@@ronmcguire2951 To be fair, that's how a lot of us learn what tools we actually need out there. 😅
going double line is a great idea for controlling speed if needed.
thought I'd add a few points. When removing the spare I find that standing downhill and having the spare uphill of you makes it easier to catch and less chance of loosing your footing or your spare. Throwing the spare under the vehicle can be a good idea, especially if your underneath while winding up and down on the jack. I also like to angle the jack so you can wind from the side of the vehicle instead of straight on like you had, where you have to get underneath
Great points
Did a good job with explaining and demonstrating a tough task in some tough comditions.
Only things i can think of to maybe do differently would be these.
Place the spare wheel under the car just in case it comes off the jack.
If you have a compressor pump the tyre up so you dont have to jack as much would also let you know if the tyre is repairable or not and if not then you can chose to drive on it to a safer location to change it if you want.
Take the spare tyre off with the door or carrier in the secured position.
Great ideas
We used to teach “tyre change on a hill” as part of SISODRV302A trainings.
Your basics and thought process are spot on.
1 additional must do
- try to push the car off the jack by giving it a good bump BEFORE taking off the wheel (more often than not it will fall off the jack)
2 potential options to improve safety
- use a ratchet strap to secure side (more import when side slope becomes a factor)
- when done, put the tyre iron in the passenger footwell (to remember to check the wheel nuts in 50k or to grab the torque wrench when home, etc)
Plus the normal things to add on top if there are bystanders or “helpers”
I instructed that many times in controlled environment, lucky only had to use it (modified) once when I had a rapid flat. That was on the CSR, by myself and just shy of the top of the biggest sand dune there - no, it’s never fun or easy.
Thanks for the input
I appreciate you setting up the scenario in a realistic environment. Any of these steps can challenge the novice on a clean flat surface of a garage. Real world best place to train. I’ve learned in life, “planning is everything. When stuff hits the fan, plans mean nothing.”
All the things that were never considered that can bite us and distract us, i.e. having a life element of nature join you right at the moment you dare not let go ( insects, snakes, etc). Of course seems weather is never ideal. Temperature extremes add to level of difficulty. Blazing inferno hot, or perishing cold .
Anticipating the un foreseeable
Mate get a bottle jack that you only need to pump up not wind up as I’ve found it’s way easier than trying to wind under a vehicle.
Yes except these work in any direction and can’t fail if a seal blows for example.
I could see a couple of things that certain situations could have been very helpful. 1. Make sure the wheel will actually come off before you Jack the car up. Sometimes, it can be stuck even without having any nuts. 2. Have something to prop up the car while it is on the jack, so if it falls, it doesn't drop down completely.
Well done I hope everyone has watched this video a great help for all four wheelers
It’s worth thinking about imo
Don’t forget: Re-set your wheel chocks after tightening your winch.
Great video Matt and as you said we never need to change a tyre in the most ideal place. A while back now I had a jack collapse under the car on relatively flat ground while using a companies products (Not mentioning names) and when I went back to them they blamed it on the fact the ground wasn't perfectly flat. I was a bit stunned when I heard that as the product is designed for 4wd's and as you said we never get the most ideal locations. I would be very nervous changing a wheel in the location you are on here but you added all the safety gear to make it as safe as you can.
Wow some companies don’t think through what they’re selling.
@@MadMatt4WD I've sent you a link to my video through Instagram.
Great video. I’m glad you suggested using a bridle and strap when you don’t have a winch. I don’t have a winch and probably wouldn’t have thought to use my recovery gear to secure the vehicle. Another lesson learned. Cheers.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Matt, not sure if you’ve just done that subconsciously but I think it’s worth while to call out. From the moment the wheel nuts come off until the wheel nuts go back on - no one is in the car, no one opens doors, gets their water bottle, etc. avoiding any weight shift/movement.
I didn’t think about that but yes 100% agree
Great demo. I think I would have performed this in the same manner had I found myself in the same predicament without seeing your demo however it may have taken me some time to come up with the idea of anchoring the vehicle to a tree and reversing down the hill to tension the system if my winch had failed. So thank you for performing this exercise because it will save me time and give me confidence should I need to do it in the future. Thanks MM, cheers
Excellent. Thats my thinking. Try it in a controlled environment and who knows how it might help in the future.
Excellent topjc and video Matt. Thank you!
I have a 3" square piece of 25mm ply and a 3" square of 3mm rubber i put between jack and chassis if I think the jack might slip off when jacking on uneven ground. One of my jacks does have a peg sticking up that fits into holes in the chassis rails and also in holes in the lower suspension arms. I'll utilize this first but if I can't, I always use the wooden block if bottle jack is used. Metal on metal can slip if things are not aligned nicely.
Great thoughts thanks
I had a few tips, but it looks like everyone here has covered them. The only thing I'll add is that I have a similar bottle jack in my 4Runner, and I purchased a off-road base meant for a hi-lift jack, but it fits perfectly with the factory bottle jack. I would feel a lot more secure having the bottle jack on that rather than the ground.
I also carry a breaker bar with an impact socket that fits my wheel nuts for everyday use, but when I'm out on the trail I also keep an electric impact with me.
Good tips
Great idea sharing. Cheers.
Thank you for the input😀👍🏼
Makes me rethink my setup and possibilities.
I've plugged 2 tires in a similar situation and refilled them, but propably would have avoided changing them.
I get it, I would avoid changing it if I could but was keen to try it out to learn in case I had to do it in a really world situation.
oh bad situation. First I would always try to refill the tire, might just last 1 min, then do it again. Ok if the tire is so damaged, that a refill will not help, it is destroyed anyway, so you can go up/down even with the flat tire. But you are right, there can still be the situation, where you have to change it. But then I would have turned the jack, so you do not have to be underneath the car. Just by turning it 10..20 degree, would the crank handle be moreless outside already?
I carry the high jack with a rim adapter with me and a stand for underneath the axle. This works perfect and you do not have to be worried about the less travel of the original jack.
thanks Matt for your teaching and the push of rethinking all that stuff.
Thanks for the comment. Some really good ideas I’d not considered.
I always put the wheel under the car. It saved my legs from being squashed when I was a young fella.
The Toyota jack is one of the best jacks in the world. It will go up like 15 inches. There is not a lot said about that. But, Folks who know will tell you the same. I would have used an impact wrench for the lug nuts and the jack. Makes it easier. But overall great job!
I didn’t use a rattle gun to keep it real to a basic setup. Just to see how that went.
I think the option of using a strap and letting the vehicle rest against it is better than using the winch. You could achieve it with winch rope too, but if you let the vehicle rest against it, then you know its at an equilibrium where its not going to go up or downhill. Let it settle completely on the rope, then apply handbrake and 4 low, then you can confidently jack up the car without too much chance of it wanting to move.
Good thinking too. My thinking was it allows me to keep the jack straight if the car moves.
Always clean the mating surfaces (wheel and hub), a few grains of sand/dirt falling down, slowly crushing on the corrugations/rough tracks will create a loose lug nut situation, often the cause of buggered studs and rims. Very important for alloy rims which do not 'coin'. Tie a strap to spare and towbar when dropping it off the bracket, wont roll off down the steep hill.
Tiring it of is a great idea I didn’t think of.
In my experience, it can be fairly risky driving on flat tires. I did this once, just moving an old parts car sitting in the paddock. Tyres were flat and came off the rim almost straight away, damaged the valve, and could not pump them up later this was on soft grass simply trying to save a little bit of time made things take a lot longer that day.
It might sound trivial but make sure you are on 4 low and e bakes are engaged. As things get challenging sometimes the trivial things are overlooked.
I did mention that
@@MadMatt4WD credit where it is due
Thanks Matt. Wondering if you might loosely strap the spare to the vehicle before taking it off the back in the event you lose it and it ends up hidden in the bush 500m away, and, once it's safely flat on the ground, strapping the flat before taking it off the hub. And whack the spare under the vehicle should the jack let go.
I think these are great points
I would definitely carry two of the Toyota jacks...they are very small and light weight for what they are. With two jacks you can lift the axle as you did and set up the other one on a frame rail in case the axle lifting jack should shoot out due to the spring tension, off camber, steep incline and loose terrain conditions. They Toyota jacks are superior to the hydraulic pump jacks (where 99% of them are made in China) since they cannot "collapse" like a hydraulic unit can making the Toyota unit a viable jack stand. I don't own a Toyota but I do own their bottle jacks!
One product recommendation I would make is installing an adapter to the Toyota jack that allows you to use a wrench, ratchet or electric drill instead of that damn long handled torture devices that come from the factory.
Good comment and thoughts. Ive adapted the jacks in the past to have a socket on them. But you can't use a rattle gun to drive them as it busts things. But a drill works well.
I always put the wheel that's not on the car 🚗under the car if I have any part of my body at risk of been trapped
I do that often as well. Good point.
I would position the jack winder to face out the side so I would be clear of the body instead of laying under it to wind jack up, also would have the spare under ths car body incase jack slipped.
If the tire can be plugged, I would make sure the car does not roll back then plug the tire while it is still on the vehicle. I would do that this way: inflate the tire so that it resist the pressure from being pushed against the wheel as you try to clean and plug the puncture hole. Next plug the whole and this step my require alot more pressure than can be applied by a person in such a position. If this is the case, drive up just a bit so that the hole forms an angle with the surface in front of the tire that is around 45 degrees. Use a scissor jack or any jack that would fit and work at an angle to push the tire plugging tool into the tire. Difficult part is done. Pull the tire plugging tool away adjust tire pressure to desired value trim extra plug sticking out of the tire if you so desire. And done .. tried this with a 2 ton harbor freight trolley jack worked effortlessly ..was not on hill just a parking lot though
Good comment. What if you had a mechanical issue and had to remove the wheel?
A long while ago I was a Mechanic. Jacks that come with cars scare me when it is not dead flat.
would you hook up the compressor first hoping that it would hold pressure long enough to drive to a safer location for the change?
You could but what if you had a mechanical issue and had to pull the wheel off?
Yes it's possible to change the tyre, like you showed to us, but i would prefer to do this on flat surface.
So i would use my winch to clime up the hill, if this is the shorter way, or i would secured by ma winch go down.
Because we don't know how stable the underground is, there could be lose surface, which can start a land slide just in tha moment we are on the ground for positioning the jack and all the security helps the rig to fall just right on us.
I would always want ot move to a better situation but this is exploring what happens when you can't`?
Matt, is it possible to make a longer handle for the jack that would extend out from under the vehicle? DOM tubing, perhaps? Also, I like to use a 4 way cross wrench (not sure of the AUS name☺) as you can spin the lug nuts on a bit faster w/o arching your arm around, just support the non-lug end and spin...
Some places it is called a spider...
Yes
I don't normally advocate for using a hi-lift for a wheel change, but this seems like one of the few times it would have been a lot more comfortable. 😅
When you were taking the spare off the back I was thinking you might loop a ratchet strap between it and the rear wheel you were removing, so you could focus on maintaining your own balance and let the wheel go if need be.
I hope I'm never in a situation where I have to do the same, but great video nonetheless.
Some great ideas there. Thank you.
Although training says “do it on a flat surface”… nothing goes the plan in the real world. So this is certainly worth exploring. Maybe not even a tyre change, maybe some other similar mechanical scenario. If you can imagine it, it could happen.
Couple of things, any adjustment on the winch. Apply standard safeguards… (don’t be under the car 😂)
Don’t secure the car using a kinetic strap or rope. It’s the last time in the world you’d want any “boing”.
Good comment
Well explained, but I think it would be better not to have your head/upper body under the vehicle when operating the jack, in case the jack slips. Greetings from Germany.
The only things I would have done differently is to have my body downhill from the tire so i would be in a position to stop a runaway tire. Also, i might have turned the jack a bit so that I wasn't under the truck and could spin without obstruction. We actually had this exact scenario happen 2 yrs ago. We all carry a lot of tools. 3 tom floor jack, breaker bar, power impact gun and torque wrench. We had the guy's tire back on in no time. I helped roll the wheels which i ensured i was downhill. If it gets away, there's no stopping it. It could kill somebody downhill from you.
could have angled the jack winding mechanism in order to do the winding from a position out from under the vehicle.
Good suggestion.
Why not low reverse gear? Approx same ratio and normal direction for the engine to turn?
Depending on the vehicle this could be good
You forgot knee and elbow pads in case you go arse up 😂 maybe keep a yellow stackhat 😂 👍👍 cheap neoprene knee pads are good for the rocks
Probably the only things I would have done differently would be to keep a tyre (the spare and then the flat) under the car should it come down. Other thing I would have done is drive the car a short distance and then rechecked the wheel nuts in case the tyre was on a funny angle when it was being tightened. Probably not really necessary, but better safe than sorry.
Good points ta
What about changing underwater when it’s croc infested ?
lol. I’ll find out and let you know. If you don’t hear from me you know it’s not a good plan. 😂😂
Totally get what your doing and why, but why not try and air up tyre first. After securing the vechle. And if it will not take air its done for anyway, so sacrifice the tyre. As some people will cut corners. Safety first.
I’d do everything possible before I removed the wheel in this situation. But the question is what if you have to. It could be for a mechanical reason.
Maybe the steers could be pointed full lock to the right. Be ready to move if the car does. Idk I'm no expert though
The concern then is if the car went back it would roll because it would go side to the hill.
@@MadMatt4WD Yeah that's a concern.
You were nervous doing the jacking? How did the camera operator feel?😉
Mrs MadMatt was cool calm and collected.
Great topic!
I’ve had to do that and did something similar.
I’ve also had a situation where my jack wouldn’t work. To change the tyre without a jack, I found a close location where I could get the vehicle to do a “wheel lift” on the offending tyre and changed it whilst in the air.
Different situations require a different solution, just take a minute or two and think the situation through.
Could have thrown a rope through the spare wheel and tied it off somewhere in case it got away when you pulled it off the carrier.
You shouldn’t be under the vehicle in line of that front tire while running the jack up
Some have suggested I angled the jack which is a good idea.
Why wouldn't you just roll back down the hill to make it easy. You said it, "I've never had to do this"
This is staged as I explain in exploring a potential situation. Say it’s not a flat and you have to remove a wheel for a mechanical reason.
@@MadMatt4WD Valid point, for example?
I don't think the risk is worth the reward. The tyre is already damaged and that damage could be fatal anyway. Roll to the bottom of the hill where the vehicle is naturally stable and change it there.
What if it’s a mechanical issue that requires the tyre to be removed.
@@MadMatt4WD You mean what if the tyre is serviceable? Still, I reckon its a huge risk trying to change it on such a steep track... I think to myself if the tyre is flat, isn't possible its been rendered unusable in the last 10 meters it took to realise it was flat? Its a risk thing - why risk it for the sake of a tyre?
So i'm not avocating this as the best way to do this as it's not. But i wanted to explore what if you have no choice to take a wheel of on a steep hill? how do you do it and what are the challenges? I've had people share times where theyve had to do it so it's a real senario.
@@MadMatt4WD That was understood, and a great scenario to explore. I'm sure its made a lot of us think through what we personally would do n such a situation and, if cornered and had to replace the wheel on the slope,, what to expect. I for one had not considered this scenario until you bought it up and I am sure there are many of us with a little more off road grey matter!
What to do? Don't change it! Drive it up und then change in a save environment😂
But what if you can’t move it. Thats the question we’re exploring. Of course we’d move to a safe place if it was an option.
Ok, so first of all. That’s not a double line pull. For a double line pull the pulley must be connected to the load! It’s simple physics. A very common mistake by 4wders!
As for the tyre change, well you’re completely overthinking it!😂 Unless you’re tyre is completely demolished, any 4wder should have a compressor with them, pump tyre up & drive the vehicle to a flat spot & then change it!🙄 Chances are the tyre would only need hold air for a couple of minutes to get the vehicle into a better position!😂
What if you have to remove the wheel for a mechanical issue such as a seized bearing or a brake which has locked on. And you’re assuming slow leak. What if it’s a slash that can be trail repaired but won’t hold air.
You better unpack your understanding of a double line pull because as I understand what you’ve said you’ve introduced a concept I’ve never seen described as double line pull. And a quick search on lifting sites rigging sites suggest I’m correct.
Of course there are exceptions! But in your video u have a simple flat & the tyres looks pretty intact.
🤣🤣 Nup. All you’ve done is set up is a redirection! Try this, tie a rope around your waist, put the rope through a pulley above you, now lift yourself up! Mechanical advantage? Nope!👎 This only changes the direction of the rope. To give u mechanical advantage a pulley must move, it can’t be fixed! This is a common trap for young players. The only thing this achieves (which is why ppl think it’s a double line pull) is it uses more rope off your winch drum, thus making the diameter of the drum smaller & reducing the load on the winch. If the pulley was connected to a vehicle & u were pulling that vehicle, then yes. That would be a double line pull, because the pulley is moving because it’s connected to the load. You learn all about this stuff when u do a lifting & cranage course.👍
thanks for explaining but with all due respect this is not a redirect because the line comes back to the vehicle at the bridal. How do you propose it should be set up to create the double line vpull as you’re suggesting? Fyi I’ve had my rigger and crane operator tickets.
The tyre is in perfect order because this is a staged example as I say in the beginning of the video.