Super Dry Your Bambu Lab AMS with These Cool 3D Prints
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2023
- HOT And HUMID means bad news for filament, having the Bambu Lab AMS helps a lot to keep your filament protected, but there isn't much space in there for desiccant. How about we fix that in this video, and while we're at it, we're also going to find a way to make the fix universal so it doesn't only work in one condition.
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I'm very happy with the X1C as well as the AMS, they've really opened up a whole new world of 3D printing options. There are however some little adjustments that can be made to make the system better. One being the way that it keeps filament dry. Those two small packets are not easy to get to, I always forget they're there and I'm not sure how much they're really doing, since my desiccant gauge was always showing that I needed to add more. So in this video we're going to use some cool design techniques to see if we can't come up with something that will keep everything Bone dry for as long as possible.
While we're at it, we can also help to weigh down some of those spools which are nearly empty to keep them in good contact with the AMS spool rollers.
Cylinder Desiccant Holder (Bambu Spools Only):
www.printables.com/model/5200...
Front Desiccant Holder for AMS:
www.printables.com/model/4724...
Universal Internal Spool Desiccant Holder:
www.printables.com/model/5765...
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This is the color changing desiccant I showed in the video:
amzn.to/3sJv8Lp
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Brilliant design! Kudos to you mate, I now have these in every spool I have at the ready - in AMS and also cereal-box storage.
Awesome dude! I'm setting up my ams to be perfect & I will definitely be using this design for the humidity control! Thank you 💯
That's awesome. There was one other design I really liked, but, it takes up an entire slot for a spool, if someone only needed three spools, it's also a great option. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
I love that its smaller in diameter so it fits into more spools and also has more surface for the air to go in.
Using dessicant will not dry the filament. It will remove the moisture from the air and prevent them from getting moist. But to actually dry the filament, you need to heat it.
From what I've read, that's right, it bonds to the filament chemically.
While not as good as heat drying, it does dry it somewhat: ruclips.net/video/eqQRN9TUw08/видео.htmlsi=CenZgCU8vR5TvJeV&t=724
From the title I also thought this video was about additional tools for active drying. But the model is still awesome.
Desiccant in dry, not yet absorbed lot of moisture state, is like large volume of air that is much dryer.
By time moisture level (of air vs desiccant) equalizes, and water vapor from air gets absorbed by desiccant, drying air.
If resulting air around filament moisture level is much dryer then that of filament, then it equalizes too, and filament gets dried a bit. At very slow pace though, even more so, that this process is not accelerated by higher temps as in dryer, and/or with fans. Also, if desiccant has already absorbed lot of moisture, it might go even opposite way, with equalizing in enclosed space by time moisture level evening out from "wet desiccant" to "dry spools".
So technically, while main function of desiccant might be more to retain current wetness/dryness level, it still can dry filament too. Just that in too relatively inefficient/slow pace, to rely just on that or to replace active heating dryers with desiccant boxes. Even more so, if one frequently puts in/takes out in AMS spools as they get used up, on each opening letting wetter ambient air in, replacing dried out (during day or two) air in AMS.
Yup. This is what we’ve being doing for years in the semiconductor industry with our plastics. Even dry storage needs a yearly bake. Moisture is ruthless on Earth. I use all passive methods too, but you really need to add energy to literally drive moisture away. Diffusion just ain’t gonna cut it with H2O, but it does buy you time. What’s most important too is ensuring your dry boxes are actually hermetic.
In your video, you said you didn't think the front desiccant trays would have enough 'drying power', but you didn't try it out. I tried it. I printed the three trays and at first I didn't fill 'm up. I just used the standard holes in the back with the supplied satchels of desiccant. I printed the front center tray just for holding the hygrometer which I got off of Amazon. I tried them first against two different hygrometers in my room (around 45% humidity, 20C) and it showed around 30% inside the AMS. I let that sit there for a few days (I had to wait for my kilo of desiccant anyway) and the humidity and temp remained stable. Then I filled up the left and right front trays with desiccant and within a couple of hours humidity dropped to 20% and it's still there. So I guess both solutions perform roughly the same, yours a bit better.
great idea! I'll definitely be using that! thanks for making it available !
Fantastic Job! Very informative and interesting video. Thank you.
My pleasure, I'll be making many many more like this as long as people enjoy them and find them helpful in some way.
Absolutely Amazing. Thanks so much for creating this.
wow great work man!! this is my first video i see from your channel and i'm sold! subscribed! great work!
Nice! I'm glad you like it, my only caution is that if you do this in black and you put it inside of a black spool... you may not notice it in there. I've done this by mistake 2 times now. Mind you I'm always swapping out spools. The last time I had my printers ay up in the air and I couldn't see and I dropped it, it hit the floor and the lid broke, but that was it, a bit of the gel beads spilled out. A colored print might have been a good idea, something bright! Too bad I didn't catch it on video, that would have been a fun blooper. Thanks for the comment and for taking the time!
@@NeedItMakeIt HAHAH I can see that happening to me, what a nightmare tryong to pickup all these beads! 😅thanks for the advice, will make it in neon blue, this way there is no way I will not see it
Great idea and thank you for sharing!
Hey great idea, works really well from your testing!
I'm at fully bars now! having the desiccant roll around in there exposes it nicely when your printing, and with the color changing one I use it's easy to tell when it's saturated. I think Bambu should probably update that menu a bit, why is that symbol so tiny?!
Awesome, just what I was looking for.
Cool! The only spool I've found that it doesn't quite fit is Prusament, I didn't have any at that time and it seems that Prusament spools are quite a bit thicker. I'll make another option that's just slightly longer to fit that one as well.
very nice - and good F360 chops👍
The desiccant bottles that go in the spools also helps keep non-bambu spools from jumping as you are about to finish the filament. Other spools are lighter than the balbu ones and tend to jump when there isn’t much weight from the filament left.
I can see that being a problem for the paper spools, a full spool isn't really a problem but as they become nearly empty it's not good, a spring system from the top with a roller would be a good idea and would accommodate all spools.. except for the smallest ones which the Hydra system would allow. Great point though. My issue with those is that they only fit one brand. I wanted something a bit more universal. I think that I would not recommend printing my design from black, sometimes I forget they're inside and oops, there is a broken lid as it falls out. I'm also using black colored spools, so maybe something brighter would be good.
I live in Colorado. In the winter it is so dry that I run a steam humidifier to get my house’s ambient humidity UP to what you’re getting your AMS down to. In Colorado, life is a desiccant! 😂 But yeah my 4 AMSs sit at about 10% to 15% RH in winter lol.
great contribution. Thanks
Thanks! I wonder if I need to create one for Prusament? The spools are too large to fit into the AMS, so maybe it's not needed.
Great idea, I to was sticking packs in various places. The one thing that made me switch was that the rolls movement agitates the beads. The print turned out perfect. The only thing I did different was after the bottom layers were printed, I moved the speed up to ludicrous. Printed perfectly in PETG. Since performing this upgrade my humidity dropped from 40 to 30 and still going.
You and me both, and those bags or pads really don't look to professional, maybe most people don't care, but the printer and AMS look great until those are jammed in the front. I don't know about you, but it is super humid here in Ontario Canada right now, it's a must. I guess as it cools down, we'll see less of a problem. How fast can you run your printer? I've not had a chance to experiment much with it in that way. I will say that it seems to handle PETG like it's child's play. I wonder if the faster speeds help to prevent some of the issues with stringing we'd see with the Enders.
kb3ayo581
Humidity has continued to drop and is now down to 25%. I live in Baltimore and so it gets very humid here as well. I mostly used normal mode, especially if I want a perfect print. After a lot of searching found standard mode is A= 10000/mms2, v=250mm/s, sport = 20000/mms2, v= 250mm/2 and ludicrous ?.Your print is really the first time I've used ludicrous since the movements are less jerky in vase mode. Worked great!
Brilliant! Thank you very much 🙏
I like it a lot!
I bought two 12VDC 70c heat blocks which I put in the same space as the video. I attached some small heat sinks to the blocks and they never get hot enough to hurt the plastic and require no controller. Typical humidity is around 25%.
Vase mode is new for me. Am I supposed to print both versions (BL only and universal ) in vase mode? I do have a mix of both BL and none BL spools
Your uploaded stl of the universal spool desiccant holder includes the lid in the body despite having a separate lid stl. P.S. it's even more messed up, it includes internal solids that slice as infill so it looks like the redesign has been exported with additional extraneous geometry that prevents useful printing.
Great idea.
Do you have the link for the desiccant you use?
Good video but I feel like I'm just barely missing the juicy stuff. What are the design parameters you used to make this a 30 minute print time vs the other 2 hour one? Like you said for .4 nozzle you did .72mm line width, was that just for strength or is that a good width to print fast?
Yeah, great design!
Excellent thanks
Solid idea for sure, maybe add something inside to polish as this is an automated tumbler now...
LOL, some of your favorite rocks maybe?
Although i used your print setting recommendations, my cage part always seperates from the bottom when removing from the plate... Any tips?
Could you add a link for the Fusion 360 file for the Bambu Labs version. I really like this version but would like to mod it for a different spool size? This also helps me learn fusion 360
Great job
Thanks!
I'm getting a constant 10% (lower limit for display output?) on my hygrometer using the original upright 3 gel containers but hey, you can never get enough desiccant so I might add these as well! Thx.
side front boxes, these and the upper side brackets I am well over 800g in there lol
Nice
They've been working great, some neat ideas in the video. I know most of them have been done already, but trying to find one solution for all spools wasn't too simple for me, they're all so different. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
This is elegant and clever. Thank you very much!!
Hi, thank you for your very well made design! I sliced it in bambu studio, I think using the same parameters as you, but I can get only 55mins and not 30mins print time.
Thank you! There will be some settings which are material dependent, it may be that the flow rate, or your cooling settings for that material is different than the settings I used for ASA. If you have a look at the view for speed view and then play around with some settings with for that material you should be able to speed up your print. Are you Printing with ABS/PETG/ASA other?
Thank you so much, I'll give it a try (I'm using PLA) @@NeedItMakeIt
Don't wonder about the Tube looking like the top lid is on. Activate spiral vase and slice and the solid cylinder will turn into a tube without a lid.
However I only manage to get the holes on the side, that point upwards. The one pointing downwards are not printed properly with pla. From the upright "ring" that starts each level the next line starts to squiggle as expected, but the slicer doesn't understand, that the ventilation needs to be drastically ramped up, get the PLA hard in mid air. So when the nozzle comes back above the "ring" the still soft PLA leans against that "ring" effectlivly closing the hole.
activate spiral vase? for us NEW printers how and where do you do that? i ask as the first one i printed is solid on both ends. thanks for any help.
I'm new as well and I have to go through all check boxes every time. "Spiral vase" is under "Other/Special mode" in Bambu slicer. @@terryhdbailey
So, just for a rookie. If dessicant only remove air moisture ¿is using only heat certain previous and during printing time enough to keep air and filament with low moisture avoiding filament humidity print issues ? Or whats really the dessicant point? Thanks
Great video love the concept of this very versatile.
Tried to print this twice the problem I've got is it prints like it's a solid item. Am I doing something wrong it seems to infill itself sealed at both ends😢
you need to select "spiral vase" in the "Others->special mode" section in the slicer settings
I think we need one of these that has a small fan and low level heater in it :) blow the warmed air right down the middle of the other 3 desiccant chambers (and a battery of course)
why does the body file have a top and bottom? shouln't it just have one end?
If you run it in Vase mode it will come out correctly, just make sure to follow the specs I've listed to make sure it's strong enough.
When I slice the Universal Internal Spool Desiccant Holder, it is closed at the top. Am I doing something wrong? I have a Bambu Lab printer.
Found that I have to do the following:
To print this, use Vase Mode (Spiral)
Change line widths from 0.4 to 0.7, increase by 0.3mm to each width setting
Use 6 bottoms, this makes sure that the vase has a good connection to the top or bottom.
But I don't know what to do with change line widths from 0.4 to 0.7, increase by 0.3mm.
I found Line width Default and changed it to 0.7, but where do I fill in the 0.3?
(Just have my printer for a few weeks, so sorry if it is a stupid question)
You have all kinds of widths and they are not all .4mm. Change all of them +.3. So for example .4 becomes .7... .42 becomes .72... and so on.
The critical flaw with this design is when you (absentmindedly) pull the cylinder out of the spool by the "solid" end and the lid lip catches the spool and comes loose... (don't ask me how I know) 😅
xD oh nooooo
Very cool design :)
While helping with humidity, those containers main purpose was to add weight to an almost empty spool. This to prevent the spool to be pulled up by the AMS
Aouch! Cardb oard spools, in the AMS, with no adapter? These bits of caardboard could do a number in there.
Yes, I've heard that's a no-no, truth be told I tried the spool plastic pieces to add on, however they broke, so I went with it and hoped for the best, it needed a clean afterward, but aside from that, it was all-good and still works beautifully.
Hi, looks awesome & even more when compared to what other options are there...
I just tried printing as is and the top is merged. I then checked the body file & it seams to have the lid merged in the model itself.
I can't manage to print it correctly on my BambuLab X1C :(
Please help... Could you maybe create a ready made 3mf file?
Thanks
I'll get back to you, I am just finishing up another video, email me if you don't mind. Needitmakeit@gmail.com
Hello, I'm having the same issue. The main body model is showing up with the lid already installed
what did u print it in and what was that white mess on your build plate?
This was printed in ASA, but you can use ABS/PETG also works, it really depends on how you want to dry the desiccant. The mess is just glue stick, these prints didn't need it, but most of my prints are heavy duty and will warp. PETG doesn't seem to do it much, but PLA and ABS are pretty bad for nearly solid parts.
I down loaded the print files and opened them in Bambu Studio and both the tube and lid show and print filled in, not hollow. I used your link to the files.
Same here. I printed one body just to see and it is basically a playdough toy for my daughter. This looks great, but I need it to print correctly.
Hey, please point me in the right direction to learn more about the modeling you did to create the 'louvres'. I tried browsing your channel but couldn't find any other reference to it.
This was a new one for me as well. This only works with Vase mode printing. I created a cylinder to begin with, and then I created a small cone shape to intersect it and patterned it around the larger cylinder. The rule with vase mode is that anything horizontal will not be printed, with the bottoms or tops of the cones horizontal, they're open and it gives that cool look as well as the flow. I hope that helps, let me know if you need more info.
Rather than having to empty these desiccant holders to dry, have you thought about printing out of a more heat resistant material like ASA or PC and just putting the entire thing in a dryer?
Mine were printed from ASA, yes that's a great idea to be able to plunk them in the dryer. It's a bit simpler to start by drying a large batch, after that it seems better to leave them contained and dry on occasion with a spool. I don't recommend the black though, they blend in to the spools too easily and it's easy to forget they're in there. Any color would be better.
Would the desiccant break down over time and create dust? Jw.
It depends on what you use. If you're using the beads, they're supposed to only last a few cycles, but I've had mine for a long time and, yes there are some that are very tiny (low quality maybe) but for the most part they seem to last a very long time and many heating cycles. I have some ideas for a most cost effective solution for anyone that I'm working on and I think it will perform better... but there is that downside of dust and dusty filament could be bad news. I don't know if it is a big problem, it's hard to say without testing dusty filament for a long time, and the type of dust as well.
Downloaded the Body.stl and it has the cap on it. Do you have the body only file?
the cap will be removed in the slicer if you activate vase mode
Hello! Could you add on printables the cad file so that we may edit easily its size to fit different needs? Thank you in advance!
Will do!
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you so much!
@@NeedItMakeIt Hello again, in the meanwhile the cad files are still not there, so I dropped by just to remember you :D I am waiting foundly to print it
Hi Pedro, I've added the file, thanks for the reminder!@@PedroCostaPereira
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you so much! Downloaded
When you download the files the top is already on and I cannot separate it for printing. In addition the top shows to be solid with no through holes. Solidworks does not play well with stl files so there is nothing I could do. Great idea, but not executable.
I just had a look, and the stl files are two separate files, however if you bring them into the slicer at the same time, you'll have the option to combine them / group them. Try bringing them in individually and you should have success.
The model is solid like this in order to make VASE mode work correctly, if you adjust the settings to what is shown in the video, you will be able to make it work. The extrusion width is changed to 0.7 from 0.4 for example. The amount of bottom layers is also important here, I believe it is at least 5, if not 6 bottoms.
Let me know if you need any more assistance.
There are two separate files, but befor you enter Spiral Vase mode the "Body.stl" looks all closed up at both ends. The lid is not on, but the tube is closed at then end regardless, because the whole tube is filled (it's a cylinder, not a tube). @@NeedItMakeIt
@@Schnapsbrennor That's right, to make this work for you, you'll need to change to Vase mode, or Spiralize outer contour. This will auto-hollow the shape. It's certainly a different way of 3d printing and it's not too intuitive. Make sure to use the settings in the video or in the printables/makerworld link these are important to make sure it is strong.
I can also recommend using a color rather than black. I have a lot of black spools and they blend in, better to make them something a bit brighter.
Hope that helps.
I thought those white packets in the AMS was something they added during shipping I removed these and binned them straight away 😂
Well then... I guess you'll need something else then :). That's pretty funny and I don't blame you, it does look like something to throw out.
I was just printing the same model in the front the other day and measuring humidity. The clip in sensor was reading 10% in the front but another was reading 30% in the back! Minimal airflow causes misreadings from the entire case.
I was thinking that as well, great to hide the sensor inside of the desiccant, but it will be pretty dry there, no nearly as much in the AMS chamber itself. It was a good thought and looks sleek, but it's pretty misleading.
@@NeedItMakeIt So I'm having trouble with getting this off the bed with spiral mode. The walls are too thing and thus break off very easily (despite also doing the +.3mm increase). Have you encountered this before?
@@grenade558 Oh, I can't say that I have, if you're printing with PETG, it can bond extra well to some beds. If you take the Buildplate off, are you able to flex it enough to get a corner started away?
@@NeedItMakeIt yeah I've been trying with PLA and bending the sheet. For some reason they're breaking pretty easily when I bend it though. I can try rPETG but I had the issue 3x in a row so I figured I'd reach out in case you ran into it as well. Maybe my bed adhesion is too good lol
@@grenade558 It sounds like the bond to the bed is really good. I'd try turning the bed temp down to 30C and use a little glue stick, that usually does the trick for me. I rarely have parts stick so well to the buildplate. It could also be poor layer adhesion, but that's not normally a problem with case mode. The only other detail would be to check to make sure you have 5 or 6 bottoms, that locks in the first wall before vase mode. The circular shape does tend to resist warpage well, you may just have a great bond, which is kind of nice.
great idea! it would help if the rolls the filament was on had holes too to help with desiccant air flow.
Yeah, the Bambu spools seem to have lots of holes, though not through the center. I kind of wish the AMS doubled as a dryer, but they've done such a good job engineering the entire system that I think they have done it this way intentionally. Soften plastics, cooling motors etc. I guess just keep them dry and you're good.
Nice Design! I noticed you are using cardboard spools in your AMS. Any issues?
Thanks! I didn't have any issues, but they did leave a residue on the rollers, I ended up using the last bit of those spools up and I'm onto plastic ones, it's probably better this way. I was using Prusament for a little bit, except those spools are too tight, now I use Bambu filament and the quality seems pretty good.
Sorry to be a pain, but how do you download the file, I suspect it will be a .stl field, to my PC. When I try to download it from RUclips video, I’m presented with a screen saying I must upgrade to premium. With much apprehension I eventually agreed to, and then I was informed that the file had been downloaded.
However, looking in ‘Downloads’ there is no trace of it, and a search of the PC has also found no trace!
Confused, I am?
No doubt I’m doing something wrong, can you help please.
Many thanks Noel
Strange, you should be able to go to the video description, from there it will take you to Printables.com and you'll find the model, you can press download all files from that website and it should work.
I'm skeptical of all this air flow you speak of. I feel like the humid flows to dry areas (the dessicant) and the slots seemed sufficient instead of just sealed off. Would be cool to see the humid levels comparing the the two systems and what you propose
Are you familiar with convective loops?
@@NeedItMakeIt yes assuming you mean the heat source coming from the chamber of the printer. Though more prominent in a larger volume (the space) with bigger change in temperature in this "insulated" ams system from the heat source.. either way its not like a large soup pot (large change in temp), or like the cold ocean with the atmosphere (large change in temp relative to space). Something like that, if anything a convective loop helps with the air flow.
@@TORQ-1 Sure you can have that; there are also motors and electronics within the AMS itself. However even without any active heat source convective loops exist everywhere with the exception of a vacuum, small scale or large scale. A practical small scale example is the need to insulate our wall cavities to avoid convection. The point is that if there is far more area available for air to circulate around the containers, the movement of the cylinders will expose the surface of dryer beads to the AMS. The beads themselves absorb moisture into their surface and it makes sense to have them move around as much as possible. The also happen to act as a spool weight.
new P1S owner here, liked and subbed 👍
Nice, the P1S is a good printer, I've seen several prints that rival my best prints on the X1C. I'd actually like to have a P1S myself. I rarely print with CF filament, the AMS is nice to have of course.
Im on my 5th attempt at printing this successfully. It only prints well with infills. I'm referring to the spool holder. Any suggestions?
You should be able to print spiral with a 0.4mm nozzle, by adjusting the line width from 0.45 to 0.75, if the bottom or tops don't connect well it will be due to the amount of bottoms, you need at least 6 if I remember correctly. That's pretty well it. I don't know how it would turn out with infill but let me know and I am happy to help. One other note, best to print it in a color that doesn't match your spools... I found this out the hard way when I was removing a spool and it fell out on me... lesson learned.
@@NeedItMakeIt I really appreciate your response. Did you use Bambu Studio or the Orca Splicer? I think I may have changed too may settings. I'm going to default everything and then do what you have outlined above. The tip about the color of the spool, noted! I happen tp be using the P1S.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for taking the time to respond to my inqury. Question: As "line width is not a specific setting but rather a heading that houses approx. 8 settings, would I be changing each of these eight settings from .45 to .75? I am using a PETG and the Generic filament profile.
@@NeedItMakeIt I failed to mention earlier but I'm new to 3D printing.
@@NeedItMakeIt When you metnion bottoms/tops, are you referrring to the bottoms/tops flow ratio setting?
Did you modify the files then not provide files in the description link??
Disregard. It looks like you linked both the bad one and your improved one and I just didn't open all the links.
I liked the others only because I mentioned them in the video. I'd recommend printing in a color that's not similar to your spools, it's easier to tell that they're in there. A few times, I've not noticed them inside of a black spool, and they've come out and hit the floor pretty hard.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you for the reply. It’s quite humid in my office so I’ll be printing your designs.
I tried to print this and it's solid in Bambu Labs slicer
same here. looks like the end caps have no holes in them?
Im working on one that will work in bambu labs will upload it from my channel@@MightyFloyd
Seems there is in fact something broken with the model.
If it's solid, you'll need to turn on Spiral / Vase and adjust the settings to match the video. That should give you what you need.
If you're using Bambu Studio it's automatic, if its a different slicer, there are some settings that need to be adjusted. I can probably help if you tell me which you're using.
You have a filament dryer too. Your enclosed printer
FYI the universal spool file is closed on top. Not open
Yes, it needs to be this way in order to print in vase mode. Vase will auto-hollow the part, just make sure to use the settings exactly as I've shown in the video or on Printables/MW, I believe it needs 6 bottoms to lock in properly with the spiral layers.
followed all the steps but mine says 53 min print time
That's a bit strange, I can only think that it might be nozzle size or it's trying to lay down thinner layers. I'll have to play around with it to see if I can get the same result.
It looks like he's printing with Bambu ASA filament, which gives the around 30 min total print time. When I change the AMS setting from ASA to PETG I get different times; around 30 min for ASA and around 45 for PETG.
@@zakpack That's right, for some filaments you can use the Bambu filament settings, like PETG and ASA/ABS, however for PLA, if you're not using 'fast-printing' PLA, you could run into some major problems extruding at those speeds. I've had very good results by assigning non-Bambu filaments as Bambu in order to trick the software to provide better results, and it has worked nicely except for Overture PLA.
The silica gel that doesn't change color will still change size. That's how yyou will know it needs to be replaced
I've never noticed a size change, I suppose that's possible. Silica gel captures moisture not within, but in the surface, I'm not sure how much it would change in size by if that's the case.
The top is merged to the rest of the model. Why is the model like this?
I think it needs to be rotated around, my apologies, I should have adjusted the model to come in with the section you're referring to toward the buildplate. You should have a separate file for the lid.
Mine looked the same but once you set under the "Others" tab | Special Vase | Select the box that says "Spiral Mode" (Would have been better if the creator explained where the "Spiral Vase" mode was located as I did not find it easily. Once you set that, the rest of the project gets an A++
@@DatsunVents Yup, good point, sometimes I can gloss over things not thinking that some people may not be aware of how to activate the features. Especially one that isn't used much like Vase mode/spiral. I'll keep this in mind for future, thanks for that!
Not a bad idea but you really dont want to leave the beads so loose... They can and will break up when you use the ams and cleaning out the dust is nasty af... Pack it tight at least...
Those printed inserts are fine. Osmosis, as it dries its own area, it pulls the liquid because the liquid wants to be where it is dry, it is fine. Just do more of them.
do not put these white things that come with your AMS in the microwave.
thrust me, im on the internet and sadly i tried it.
Which things? The silica gel beads?