WHICH IS BETTER??? Wet or dry sanding of Drywall
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Should you Wet Sand, or Dry Sand Drywall? There's an age old debate about which method is best. I'll compare the 2 and break it down for you to find the winners. Wet sand with a sponge? Or dry sand with a sanding sponge or drywall pole sander? Please click the 'SHOW MORE' LINK BELOW to read more.
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I like the dry sanding method when my wife is at work..I can get the jobs done faster and clean up when done.. I use the wet sanding method when she is home and I don't want to hear the nagging about dust..lol🤣🤣🤣🤣... both work.. but it all depends on the wife's availability..
I totally get that. Lol. Thanks for commenting
Mike Ammargon that’s the most honest comment ever!! LOL
Thanks for that Mike! I'm glad that I'm not the only one that has that problem🤣🤣🤣
Amen brother!!!
Hahahahahahahahaha
Thank you for making these videos. I've been doing drywall patches for about two years now and I've been getting better results when applying the tips I learn from you. Thanks again.
I agree with everyone else in that dry sanding is faster, it also requires less of a learning curve. Although wet sanding seams easy, getting good results isn't easy as you have shown. I do a lot of repair work in finished homes and apartments where dry sanding can be a real disaster. So here a re few tricks I have picked up along the way. First of all I use a sponge mop head (refill) it is has triangular profile when viewed from the end, it has a stiff plastic backing and doesn't flex like your sponge. Next always work from the bottom up because water that drips down will create runs in your mud that will need more wet sanding to remove. As you move up keep the your work below moist with a spray bottle to prevent runs. On larger areas - right after you have sanded, use a 6' knife and wipe it down lightly.Use any wet mud on your knife to fill in any voids.
Hey great pointers. I don't wet sand much so never thought to try the mop refill. I'll have to try that.
This is really Really good advise, pro to pro!!!!!
I will try this next. Thanks
I do alot of patch repairs with quick dry mud but it still takes time for it to dry adequately for to be able to sand, since Im trying to get 3 coats and texture done in one visit I use wet sand method. I use a terry cloth towel instead of a sponge that allows me to put alot of pressure on areas that need it. I then follow with a sponge to smooth
Not a drywall pro, but a general contractor here. I dry sand as much as possible, but for many smaller repairs that I need done fast I will wet sand with a rag(not a sponge.) So I will repair hole then hit it twice maybe 3 times with 5 or 20 minute mud then wet sand with a rag then can texture. Really enjoy your videos!
Hey MFD, that's about the way I do smaller repairs. I use a fair amount of 5 minute mud, but you really have to know what you're doing to use that, unless using a tiny amount. But I can run out a whole pan before it starts setting most time. Then I just scrape the lap marks while soft, touch up lightly with regular mud, and either dry or wet sand the outer edges. Glad you enjoy the videos. What area do you work in, as in new homes, remodels, commercial, etc? And what part of the country are you in?
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement Portland OR. Mostly kitchen/bath remodeling and additions
I hate drywall dust that gets EVERYWHERE no matter how much you try to contain it. I've tried the wet sponge method but didn't like the way it can smear the surface and leave highs and lows. Now I use a spray bottle to soften the surface and smooth it with a drywall knife. It works well on thick edges and lift-offs, leaving a perfect surface with no dust.
Great demos. I've tried all the methods you've shown and agree. Im a painter and i do a lot of wall repairs. If you can feel the edge of the repair, you will see it after the paint dries.
An extra coat of plaster is generally going to save you effort in sanding. Most people want to rush and get the job done quick though.
After 30+ yrs. Remodling myself, I have found the same results with these tecniques. I couldnt have done a better explanation. Great video sir.
Old guy here that never touched a mud and sanding job after my first house where a repair was needed on the ceiling. My dad and I worked on it in the bathroom. It was on a curve in the ceiling. It came out what I'd consider today pretty bad.
Well now, nearly 50 years later, I have a house where I have only two possibilities left. Hire someone or learn how to do the repairs myself and you've given me the courage to do the latter. She wanted a ceramic towel rack removed resulting in two big holes. Fixing them and mudding and sanding was a breeze.
Next was a pull down stairs in the hall that a recently passed buddy had installed for me replacing a large access hole to the attic. It was wider than the steps so he had pieced in a couple 3 or 4 inch wide pieces of wallboard that were never finished up. I really had no idea how to even begin but between you and a couple other videos I was off and running.
There was also a piece of corner tape that had let loose that I had to cut out and replace. Your videos got me to the point I really have it looking great on the one side and other than one little bump on the corner of the other it's just as good.
I used the sanding sponges that you used but I used dry, but I wet it (squeezed most of the water out). It seemed to work great except it needed frequent cleaning but the dust was really cut down on.
Much thanks.
Awesome! So glad I could help you and thanks for sharing!
Like you, I find dry sanding superior but with the added issue of dust, but for patches with hot mud, I find there is a sweet spot just before the mud sets off that you can get glass with a wet sponge.
I’ve never had luck wet sanding, always leaves a too abrupt edge. I have found that a dull, pull paint scraper is great for removing crusts and lift off lines without creating much dust.The slightly curved blades on them eliminates any edge gouging. Will taper down a heavy edge (somewhat), eliminating some sanding, and works well in corners too. A light touch and dull blade works best.
For those of us who previously took advice from that lunatic on RUclips who suggests to “apply compound on thick and generous cause you can just sand it off” (Oops) we appreciate your expertise and comprehensive explanations.
I just came to double check if even the pros' have limitations when wet sanding in certain situations, and you're absolutely correct, everything you said is true, limitations when wet sanding will happen I don't care how good you are. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't just me. So I thank you for clearing that out nicely as you did. Nice video
I actually just bid a job yesterday where I could see that the handyman wet sanded the edges and the owner was unhappy with it. Dry sending is better, but there are times when wet sanding has a place to. I wish it worked better than it does because I hate dust too.
I have that issue sometimes when people call me for drywall work too. Youre not the only one
Thanks for letting others know how common it is.
Great video. I usually use the wet method because of the dust, but I also use a sponge block to dry finish some edges.
Thanks for the video, you did a great job.
I'm a handyman up in Toronto, Ontario. All the time I have to patch walls in homes where dry sending would make too much mess, so I do wet sending. Usually I spray a bit of water on the spot to just wet the dried mud and then I shave down the rough edges with the 6" or bigger knife. After that I give a light feathering with the wet sanding block first then I whipe the area with a wet grout sponge. Usually this method works for me, even though is more labor intensive than the dry sending, but the customers are usually appreciating the clean job.
That sounds like a good way to do it for sure. When I do have to dry sand the edges, I often hold my vacuum hose near where I’m sanding which helps draw a lot away. Thanks
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement you're right, with the shop vac works very well. But you have to clean religiously the filter.
You're right, with a shop vac. I actually use the Porter cable drywall vac which has a bag filter and then a car type pleated filter, so nothing gets past it, and it never really clogs, although I sometimes shake the bag a bit to get the dust to drop off the paper. But most of the time I also have a Dust Deputy cyclonic collector before the vacuum which collects about 99% of the dust, so my vacuum NEVER clogs up. If you do much sanding, look into that. Thanks for the comments.
I don't use wet often but when I do, I use a rag on a chunk of plywood. As you noted.... a sponge has way too much play.
I’ve repaired and hung drywall as an amateur for 30 years. I only wet sand now. I think what your video is missing is the skill of the guy finishing. I use my 3.5 blade for everything and this is how I do it: 1. Tape. 2. Wet sand. 3. Feather out 4. Wet sand again 5. Last coat of Mud 6 final wet sand. Primer it and done!
I am remodeling my house and been doing a lot of drywall work. I been doing mostly wet sanding. Yes wet sanding is great for dust control but it is a lot more work. I would prefer to dry sand but the wife has major fits with the dust. It can be a challenge to get your joints looking nice. I have found though that wet sanding can help with smoothing out edges around windows. I have a lot of ceiling to do yet and not looking forward to wet sanding it. But short of putting everything outside, including the wife, I am stuck wet sanding it.
To answer your question:
I have sanded a lot and all types of mediums. When it comes to wet or dry, I do prefer dry for finishing. But wet sanding and dry both have their advantages and I try to go with the flow as to which I use, so it definitely depends on what I'm sanding and the circumstances.
Best thing about wet sanding is the dust control!
Good video for beginners. Ive been mudding and drywalling for 12 years since i was 14 when i started out helping my dad add onto our house. You dont want too much mud on the edges where they meet together. You mud it right and youll only have to sand the ridges you left where your knife went through. I will post a video of my current project later on to check out what i mean along with some tips.
Not saying im better than you as you most likely have decades of this ahead of me. Just a tip for the fellow DIY-ers who dont want to waste money on expensive contractors.
Cool. I look forward to it.
I'm always open to my viewers sharing other ideas. Sometimes my ways may be too complex, expensive or difficult, so thanks for sharing.
i couldnt find your video.. can you post link?
@@rocontheblock8870 One of my videos? Or Justins?
It was my 1st time using drywall mud to do a repair project and I watched your videos and it really helped me I just wanna say thank you for all the information
Glad I could help
Yes, I can say I've used both methods, I try not sanding to much when doing taping on new drywall, but they're are does days, and even though it dusty,messy, and bad for my health, even with my mask on, dry sanding always leaves better results, wet sanding I only go to, when I patch holes and matching the texture around it, that's of course cutting the texture and paper away an inch, so my patch is flat and when I'm ready to do my texture, I wet sand any mud away from the original texture... Oh who am I telling this too😬. Yes, dry sanding is my go to,
Wet sanding just for my patch repairs.
Thanks for commenting
Fantastic video. Thanks. I'm a sponger because the dust just gets everywhere. And I've found that once the drywall compound is wet, I can hit it with the knife if necessary.
I'm not a professional but ive done quite a bit of both and both methods have their place. I prefer wet but it takes a little practice. I use large circles rather than the back and forth. If it's still leaving an edge you need more water in your sponge. Also don't push down with your fingers. Apply equal pressure across the sponge. Just use the corner od the sponge to focus on small areas. It may be a little more work but alot less work when you consider cleanup. Again not a pro but done quite a bit and what ive found.
I still use both, but I guarantee that dry sanding does better in many cases so I use it 90% of the time.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY You're a pro so I have no doubt you're right. Ive just had better luck with wet.
I've never had luck wet sanding for the exact problems you show. If I have a dust concern issue, I have a hand vacuum sander by Stanley. It works great for small patches.
For big jobs I use the Porter Cable power sander.
I watched your wet sanding demonstration. I would like to suggest a different way to do wet sanding that works like dry sanding with no dust. I use either a 9" drywall hand sander or 9" pole sander with 120 grit open mesh sandpaper. Its the same you would use for dry sanding. The issue with the open mesh sandpaper is will clog up when it is wet. What I do is get a 5-gallon empty bucket. When the sandpaper clogs I Jet stream spray the sander with a garden hose into the bucket. This allow me to keep using the hand or pole sander fairly quickly. I never use a sponge for wet sanding. I have better results using a hand sander. I didn't set anyone mention this method on sanding. I am not a professional but have done a lot of drywall mudding working on my home and rental properties. I encourage a response. JC
From another drywall pro, I approve of your methods. You know your stuff.
Wet it lightly with the sponge, then use your sanding block on the wet patch.
I just finished a large drywall job and tried to wet sand at first. It sucks, the damp sponge removes to much mud and starts to leave grooves if you go over it too many times. Dry sanding is for me. I'll deal with the dust by sticking a fan in the window.
I agree. I only use wet sanding for a few very fine edges where I can knock the edges off quickly. Have you ever tried sanding with a vacuum attachment right below your sander? That can help too. Thanks for the comments
I'll stick with dry sanding too. Just gotta make sure to do super thin coats.
Remember this is all about ecstatics. I recently did the drywall in the kitchen of my restaurant so I wasn't worried much about how much better it needed to look. It came out good but not perfect and I avoided the mess.
I don’t sand between coats, just hit/scrape the high stuff with a 14’ knife. I prefer dry sanding for a nicer finish. When it comes to wet sanding use the grout sponge like he has in the video, and also use a regular drywall sponge but get it wet like a normal sponge. Sometimes I have good luck with wet sanding most of the time not so much. Only wet sand when I can have no dust at all which is rarely, since I try to tape a sheet of plastic from wall to floor separating my work area from the rest of the house. Zip wall if I have it with me.
I find on fresh drywall wet sanding works better if you have a good feathered edge that barely needs sanding. I have gotten decent results wet sanding in other areas but it just seems hit or miss sometimes you'll get that perfect to 0 and sometimes youll get a hard edge that just keeps moving back on yah even with the scrubber side. If it needs to look good cause it's getting a very light texture to smooth finish then it's best to just break out the dry sanding. If it's getting a heavy knock down or you did a good job with your coats you can get away with mostly to all wet sanding if needed at all. Just job dependent and not a fan how hit or miss wet sanding can be and then you need to let it dry to knock that edge back down with a sanding block.
Like the control of the dry sponge sanding but the dust oh the dust
I sanded a 100 sq ft wall. Absolute nightmare to clean afterwards... I have some more walls at my house. Will try to wet sand. On big areas Im not sure if it matters yet 😀 great video mate 👍
Sanding dust is not fun, but can be dealt with. 1st trick is get good at putting it on so you barely have to sand. Then, if you don't want the dust to go everywhere, you can try the Dust control joint compound some big box places sell, and hang a wall of plastic about 6' behind your, sealing off the dust. Then have a good shop vac with a drywall rated filter.
I would NEVER wet sand a whole wall as it just won't flatten it. It might smooth it out, but it won't be as flat as sanding. So report back as to how it works out for you, and good luck. #drywalldustsucks 😎👣
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY hi mate just wet sanded maybe one foot by 5 foot section. Dipped maybe 4 5 times in water. But soooo easy. Man there is no dust once whoever. You have to train a but because my type of sponge has a handle. Its not exactly a shower sponge or a grout songe. Pretty stiff... But works amazingly. Not the best in corners but for joints its perfect. And in flats you should do circular motions with yoyr hand. In the corners a sandpaper is better i believe. Or being a bit gentle
All in all very happy 💯😀
Have been watching lawyer videos lately because I'm doing some Work in this 120 year old home Trying to improve my skill base I've tried couple different sponges the only thing I see to get to work is mybe over touch up or the screws
I have a stiffer sponge that was intended for drywall wet sanding and one side is kinda prickly like velcro and seems to work quite well but you still have to pay close attention as to how you hold it and where your applying the pressure but I think it does work quite well.
Also thank you very much for your time and making the video I appreciate it!
Great video for those of us homeowners who do this once very two years
Im here too help those of you who aren’t pros.
Great video. Thank you. I tend to prefer to use the sanding sponge but wet it and it seems to be the best of both worlds.
Thank you for the comment
Anyone ever soften the mud with a sponge first on the edges....then use a sanding block. It eliminates dust and reduces edges quickly. Obviously don't use this on final coat.
Thank you! Just what I needed! I appreciate you for taking the time to explain and show us :)!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
I prefer wet sanding because my daughter and I have asthma. It's worth the extra time.
First of all, I'm glad you MADE a video but I have an issue with your demo. I've used both methods, and they both work, but your demonstration is flawed. You are not supposed to press down on the sponge like you're doing. You should be floating the sponge flat with lite, even pressure over the entire patch and the mud will slowly dissolve making an exceptionally smooth/flat finish when done properly. Even if you need to take down a high spot, you still run the sponge over the patch afterwards to flatten it smooth. Though I still default with sandpaper because its faster, but very dusty and requires cleanup time. I use the wet sanding when keeping the dust minimized is a must or over heavily textured areas.
Yes, my finger made a groove because I had too much pressure on my one finger. But that's kind of my point. It's so much more difficult to apply even pressure on a soft sponge, than it is a sanding sponge. I've painted about a dozen cars and when sanding the final times before paint you NEVER use your hands as no matter how careful, you'll always leave a slightly deeper groover where ever your finger is. I'm sure if you are very careful you can avoid what happened in this video, but I prefer knowing it won't ever happen with a sanding sponge. And I feel you still can't possibly taper an edge out with a soft sponge which follows the shape of the mud too much, so I'll stick to using a wet sponge just for thin, light edges. But use what works for you, I just demonstrated some differences. Thanks for the input and for stopping by.
I messed up and sanded a bunch of patches with an electrical sander. I am still cleaning the dust. It went everywhere...floors, counters, into the kitchen cabinets, fridge and over doors, drawers, down the hallway... NIGHTMARE! I'm now rattled to sand again because I have cleaned so much, but still have to sand down the final coat! Any help is much much appreciated!! Location is above the fireplace (in living room next to kitchen and main hallway), patched a bunch of holes from TV mounts *previous home owner struggled, to say the least*.
I just tried to use joint compound to fix my plaster walls before painting. It was my first time, and I experienced the exact issue you mentioned. My patches looked feathered, but the edges were too steep. I thought the paint would hide it, but it didn't. Time to try again.
Sorry to hear your first attempt didn’t go so well. Sounds like you might need to simply coat the feathered edges with a 6 inch wide swath of mud and feather it properly. You shouldn’t need to recoat the whole thing. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for stopping by.
I am curious. Is their any advantage to dry sanding and follow with a quick sponge?
Jack, Yes, there is actually some. Since dry sanding does a better job of rough feathering it's great to start with. Then finishing with the wet sanding will remove the thin edge left behind even more. Not a big advantage, but it can reduce dust slightly. And the wet sponge will remove the remaining dust, making paint or texture stick better, and look better. Thanks for the question.
Thanks so much, kilted Guy.
Wanda, you're welcome, and thanks for stopping by and joining our community here. Let me know if you have any questions, ok? Thanks, Guy
Thank you
I have used both methods but like the results of sanding better by far. Wet sponge always paints different than sanding. Plus sanding flattens better than a wet sponge. One of my homes I had to skim coat all the rooms because of the years of paint that looked like someone just started at the top and pored the paint down the wall and the sanding made a really nice smooth wall. Also on big jobs like entire rooms there are machines with vacuum attachments that leave very little dust. I have not used any but on my next big job I will try one. I even had a pro builder in one of my homes after I just got done with replacing all the drywall, taping and painting in semi gloss paint and he sad even he could not find a tape line anywhere. That job was also sanded.
Mark, I agree, I prefer dry sanding any day, but on occasion I use wet on an edge only. As for the dust free sanding, I did a video on that at: ruclips.net/video/jUkcmOmcyLg/видео.html
I also have an Amazon store with a variety of power sanders in them. Check it out at: amzn.to/2FPu6CE
Thank you for making this. Very informative!
Thanks for stopping by and for the kind comment! See you on the next video, take care. Guy
you are the man, thank you for all your videos sir!
Best explanation ever! Thanks for doing this.
Thanks, I always appreciate hearing that I've helped people with these things. Hope you subscribed, and clicked the bell, then you'll see my future videos, of which I'm putting one out tonight giving almost 20 tips on using a tape measure in ways you might not have thought of. Take care.
What’s the best way to control the dust when dry sanding the joints? I’m just starting home reno jobs and find that the dust goes through the entire home.
Watch these - ruclips.net/video/VRqC7SzayzM/видео.htmlsi=m84f1up1ZxNwuLQA
ruclips.net/video/gk83KLNPpnI/видео.htmlsi=ZL5VrJW4uJ8M_5hh
I just put up a new ladder attic access and need to plug the opening in the closest I did the California method with the patch and could get it in the wall side top cielling but the other side it didn't line up and was off about 1\8 to a 1\4 of an inch screwed it in and mud it in did I mention it's in a closet ? Lol thinking of spreading mud all the way to the wall to get it to feather in...
My neck is messed up, I know I can't sand the ceiling standing up. I want to build a house sometime in the future. I was thinking I might try to put my scaffolding up near the ceiling and lay down so I'm sanding forward instead of looking up, maybe I would use a 1/2 sheet electric sander? Have you ever seen anybody do it like this?
I haven’t
Man oh man I should have hung out with my dad while he built our basement more often lol... Guess I'll give it a whirl tho.
Good luck. Be sure and check out my other videos which will help a lot too
This is how I feel too. "Man, why didn't I pay attention when grandpa tried to teach me this back in the day!"
What about something in the middle, using a sanding block that is wet ? Any luck with that approach ?
Haven’t tried it
I like wet sanding only. Keeps the dust away!
Great investment
I haven't looked myself, but I wouldn't be surprised if the joint compound manufacturers recommended way of sanding, would be dry sanding, I could see them saying it would void there warranty or something, ever look into that?
No, I never have. I think minor wet sanding should be fine, but using too much water might cause the mud to get fluffy and disintegrate and therefore not have the bonding strength that it should. So it wouldn’t surprise me. Sounds like you might have been doing this for a while? Thanks for the comment. Guy
Probably not nearly as long as you have,lol..ive been doing drywall my entire life, from scrapping sheet rock to scrapeing mud off the floors after its been taped, and packing sheet rock. That's where I started. I've been taping for over ten years, I'm a decent finisher, but still have alot to learn. That's why I enjoy videos like these, always good to see something from a different perspective.
I'm in Seattle
Cool, I lived in Bellevue for 2 years from 89-91, while finishing up my USAF Air National Guard duty up there. That's actually where I got my start in professional patch and repair. Before that I had done nothing but new hanging and finishing. Pretty area for a big city. My wife and I plan to come back there one day to go whale watching on the sound, and a few other things. And I have somewhere around 35 years in this stuff but hard to count since I was walking on stilts spotting nails at 8 yrs old, then ever day after high school, etc. I got out of it several times to run a pawnshop for 4 years, in the Air force on active duty for 3 years, wrote a book about Biodiesel then manufactured the equipment for 6 years, etc. And hey, I still learn new stuff, so never stop learning or get to cocky to think you know it all. Good talking to you. Guy
Hi. Nice video. A few questions: what grit paper/dry sanding sponge is best for repairs. How often do I need to replace the sponge (how can you tell if it is too clogged). I have used the 3M 220 grit with dust channels and I like it, but maybe it is too fine? Also, some sponges a labeled course, fine and very fine. What is the equivalent grit for those. Thanks!!
Oh, and what brand/type of “spackle” do you recommend for repairs (or do you just use compound, as a pro?). Thx again!
Hi, as for grit, it depends on what you are doing. For rough sanding, 80 grit, for finer sanding, 150- 220 is good. I replace the sponge when it's getting worn and the edges are frayed, and it's not sanding as well as it did when new. It shouldn't clog. If you hit wet mud, just wash it out and let it dry. 220 grit works fine for feathering the edges on the final coat, right before spraying texture, but is to fine for sanding the middles. I mostly use medium or coarse grit, and only use fine for things like prepping for a smoother finish, shaping mud after coarse sanding on flex bullnose archways, (unlikely you'll need that), etc.
Check out my other repair and finishing videos where I explain my mud choices. Basically, I mostly use USG Plus 3, all purpose or Fast Setting Joint compound, aka Hot mud. (ps, pros call it mud, joint compound, but not spackle. To me, spackle is what you buy in a quart container for filling nail holes and tiny repairs).
I did drywall and residential finishing for 15 years, then took 15 years off drywall, and now I'm getting back into it. (yea, odd, I know, but it's a good thing)
Kilted Guy is the only RUclipsr I'm watching to refresh and add to my knowledge.
Several others I have watched are OK, and helpful to a novice, but they get little things wrong here and there. Kilted Guy actually knows more than me.
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
Very rarely have I wet sanded. I have used hand held Sanders with vacuum attachment to keep dust down. Out side the dust, fry sanding is the best in my opinion. Bet there are times where wet is necessary. 🖒
I agree. Dry sanding is the best. But occasionally i use wet sanding.
i wonder how a thin sponge over a hard backing would perform.
I think it would have to be a very thin sponge, and then it wouldn't hold enough water. As I mentioned, I hate the dust, but sometimes dry sanding just is better, well actually, most of the time on larger jobs. For me, wet sanding is ONLY good for the thin edges. Hey, thanks for stopping by and just wondering what part of the country you are from? Maybe I'll see you on my Patreon community one day.
I'm in San Diego. I practice drywalling regularly on my 2 rental properties and have done several room additions. I really appreciate your channel. What is Patreon?
Wow, I have never heard of wet sanding before.
What I would be interested in seeing is extreme closeups of an abrupt edges vs a correctly sanded edge. Is there a way to know that it's actually smooth before putting paint on and finding out that it's terrible?! Thank you for all the great content and for being awesome. Sincerely, A Housewife Who Is Completely and Utterly Demoralized by Drywall
I show a picture like that in my new ebook on Improving Your Mudding skills quickly at: www.thatkiltedguystore.com
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY just purchased
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I just skimmed this and saw that very helpful picture; thank you! Next time I attempt my work (in a couple months after I've calmed down 😂) I'm switching to Plus 3 and a wider knife! One question ... if the gap I am filling is on a wall that's completely covered with paint and sand texture already ... would you try to sand away the (sand) texture before applying mud to the void? It feels odd and wrong trying to smoothly apply mud with my knife always rasping against the sand texture? Thank you so much for any help, I really really really appreciate it. :)
I would try to sand off what I could and then put on a layer thick enough to barely chatter. Then I would put a second coat on after sanding that lightly.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY A million, million thank yous for replying!
It would be nice if you did the wet sand with the same sanding sponge you did dry sanding.
You can do that, but it does tend to clog up really fast and you have to rinse it out all the time.
Great video - thanks!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
What if you wet the area and use the dry sanding block? Would that prevent the dust from flying everywhere?! Great video BTW!!
using a wet sanding sponge today for a repair. It definitely takes more effort to sand than dry sanding, but it's not difficult. I won't have dust on all my furniture so that's a win. Looks pretty smooth so far too
Yes it works and does decent but not quite as good as dry sanding
I personally would recommend a belt sander I mean why mess around let's get the job done quick guys
Get a stiffer sponge to prevent too much conforming to the mud.
I’ve actually tried many different sponges including giant green scrubber back sponges, dedicated drywall sanding sponges etc. and I still find they all conform to some degree where as the dry sanding sponge doesn’t unless I want it to. But a stiffer sponge helps some so thanks for pointing that out.
The most important question is, are you flying free under the kilt?
Well that’s the main reason I wear a kilt. I hate wearing any clothes so when I’m forced to, I like the most non-restrictive clothing I can. Thanks for commenting!
every time you wiped the wall with your ring hand i cringed. =P
It was very nice of you to help out us homeowners, and also to respond to comments before you became to big for your britches, I mean kilt, no pun intended :) If you ever start a second channel call it The Kilt on Stilts!
I still answer questions and will try to for as long as I can, even if I have to hire a helper to do some of it for me. Thanks for being part of my channel. 😎👣
Thank you for this video. I am in process of skim coating my first floor ceiling which is about 1,000 sq ft.
I am really trying to avoid creating loads of dust.
What method of sanding would you recommend ?
Using skim blades so don’t expect to have much to sand, but want to get the smoothest finish possible.
Thx so much!
Dry sanding with a vacuum sander
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thank you. What vacuum sander would you recommend?
I hired a handyman to finish a bonus room over the garage, it was just studs. When it came to dry wall he put mud on all the joints without tape. He said he's never had a problem, I fired him. Question is what do I do now? My son says remove all the drywall and start over. Is there another way? Thanks.
Was there any fibers in the mud? Or just mud? If just mud, sand most off, then tape and finish like normal.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you so much there were no fibers in the mud. I'll let you know how it works out.
That's the best sandpole made, super sander!
I got you to 200 likes. Enjoyed your video. I am sanding drywall in my house today, praying it will be done soon.
Thank you so much. I hope you’re sanding goes quickly and as painless as possible. I’ve sanded tens of thousands of times and I still hate it, LOL.
What grit sand paper are you using?
For coarse sanding, 80 grit, for fine, 150-220
What would the results be with a regular sanding block but soaked?
It works but clogs up a lot
Great video
I having to do a lot of small drywall repairs in apartment where folks are living and I can't have dust flying everywhere. I recently purchased a wet ot dry sanding block to try. I was just wondering if these will work.
Yes if the grits right
Thanks
Thanks
I currently use sand paper and bare hands. I find it easier than a wooden block which some people prefer... But I do get a fair amount of dust. Is an orbital sander attached to a vacuum will get 90 percent of the dust? It its gonna be too flat and aggressive?
I’ve tried palm sanders & do find them to aggressive. I hate wooden blocks. Sponge blocks are by far the best. I almost never sand with my fingers as you can get grooves to easy and a sanding sponge levels and feathers better.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY ok thanks a lot mate 👍
#ThatKiltedGuyDIYHomeImprovement I am a beginner so maybe I missed it in the video but what grit of sander should you use?
How To Sand Drywall Correctly - The Most Important Step- Click ⬇️ for more Info
ruclips.net/video/fEc7WZyOKu0/видео.html
if its Plaster the way too sand it a wet knife lol
What grid you use to avoid lines?
150-220
What grade/number of sandpaper should I use for drywall?
80 grit for coarse sanding, 150 for finer. 220 for final if doing level 5 smooth.
100,120 paper or mech for course as 80 you might get stuck with scratches you did'nt see AND ruff up the paper from the drywall...150 for finish, no need to go higher as the paint roller or spray gun will even everything out. Plus 180 or 220 will just slide on the plaster instead of sanding as it will fill it self with dry plaster after just a few minutes and there is no reason for it to be sanded as smooth, again the paint roller or brush will actualy make more markings then the 150 sanding did. There is a reason why drywall sandpaper companies only sell 100,120 and 150 grit!
PS; They now sell 150 grit with a very thin sponge glued to it that actualy does wondersss (I buy it in 50 or 100 feet roles), but they do sell it in normal lenghs. Sands easier and does a better job but more expensive, tho they last longer. Regular drywall paper for finishing is a thing of the past! ;)
Rank amateur here and I'm just searching for tips on how to get a decent finish because I'm struggling with it. Just out of interest I actually wet the wall and used my hand to see if I could smooth it out any and it worked to an extent, so I immediately thought of a sponge. Good to know I can use one and it'll be effective.
A question. Does the sponge work only when the mud is still cracking off or will it work even after its fully off? Thanks.
Hi Roger. I’m not sure what you mean by cracking off, but you can pretty much use a sponge on the mud once it has set up firmly or completely dry. The sanding sponge should only be used when the mud is fully dry though or it will just clog up. Thanks, Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY hi,thanks for the reply. Setting up means the same as cracking off, it might just be a UK, maybe even just a Scottish term. Thanks again for the info, hopefully it'll help me get a reasonable finish. Shouldn't have chosen a ceiling as a first job to try lol
Ahh, I figured it was probably a regional thing. Never heard that here in the US though, lol. Good luck and if you need more advice feel free to ask. If it's complex, requires pics etc, I have options for that on my advice page at: www.thatkiltedguy.com/advice-page
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thanks that's much appreciated!
What about using a sponge that has a "greenie" on the other side, wouldn't that work great on those hard edges?
Those kind of sponges they work a little bit better, but they still don’t have a flat enough controlled edge to truly feather properly. Nothing beats a real sanding sponge. I have tried the ones with the green scrubber edge by the way. Hope that helps and thanks for asking.
The scotchbrite sanding sponges do best when theyre stapled to a 2x4.
If you do that, just be sure to drive the staples as deep as possible, so they don't gouge the mud. But then you kind of loose the Wet ability of the wet sanding I would think. With the scotchbrite on the sponge, you still have the wet sanding ability. Never tried this though.
Wouldn't the wet sanding be better if it's a compound with silica in it? All the products with silica clearly say to NOT dry sand, since it's dangerous to breathe in silica.
So if dry sanding, then a professional full filter mask would be essential at the least.
Just sayin'.
Yes, you should always wear an approved respirator when sanding. But the silica content isn't that high these days. And actually, USG doesn't say to not dry sand. And they do say that to remove heavier imperfections and larger amounts of mud, sanding is required. Wet sanding will NEVER give you the same leveling ability that dry sanding can, so there's no choice sometimes.
Raw materials in this product contain respirable crystalline silica as an impurity. The weight percent of respirable crystalline silica found in this product is < 0.7%. The OSHA PEL for respirable crystalline silica has been lowered to 0.05 mg/m3, effective June 23, 2016 with compliance dates of June 23, 2017 for construction and June 23, 2018 for general industry. Testing of this product and its constituents suggests that under normal conditions the expected use of this product will not result in exposure to respirable crystalline silica that exceeds the OSHA PEL.
Also-
CAUTIONDust from sanding may cause irritation to eyes, skin, nose, throat and upper respiratory tract. Use only in a wellventilated area, wear a NIOSH/MSHA-approved respirator. Use a sander with vacuum attachment or wet-sanding to reduce dust.
You can read more by opening all their papers on this at: www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products/walls/drywall/joint-compound/lightweight-joint-compounds/sheetrock-plus-3-joint-compound.381466.html
Thanks for asking, Guy
Why have you got a kilt on pal?
I get asked about my kilt a lot, lol. I wear them about 80% of the year, (sometimes it's too cold for a kilt here in Colorado) and wear them mostly for the comfort, freedom, lack of binding in my groin and because I love the style and feel of them. I like the way they swish and feel so free and light, and airy. I first bought one because I'm a nudist, and wanted something that was as close to wearing nothing as possible, and kilts came to mind. Now I have about 8 of them and love them. I found out that skirts are even lighter and more freeing, so I sometimes wear those too as I don't care about people who want to judge me negatively for what I wear, because life is way to short for that crap.
Now, when I put on shorts or pants it feels like something ran a binding strap through my groin and they are so uncomfortable. So in short, I wear them because I want too.
Hope that answers your question. But now my question for you is have you ever tried on a kilt? Or maybe a skirt, even if just briefly? You should. You can buy one for $30 on Amazon and it's a good quality. I wear that one in some of my videos even.
What part of Colorado, sir?
Grand Junction, CO. I graduated from this area in 1979, then left when the economy crashed in 1983 (known as black sunday here) and joined the USAF, then ended up back here in 2004.
Hey everyone, it’s Guy, and I have exciting news. I wanted to let you know that you should feel free to ask me questions here in the comments, but due to the popularity of my channel, and the number of questions I'm getting, I now answer all questions on my Patreon page, (although Patreon members questions will be highlighted below & I will look for them).
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Ok let me see. Im not from the states. In my house it is cement blocks. And then the paint layers on them are peeling. They were paint on a chaulk paint... And the next layers cant stick to that. Excellent job right there for you ☺️
I bought 2 materials. One is like drywall compound for up to 1 2 inches of thickness. And the next layer is like a finish coat. Very smooth. But it does show when you use a bulb next to it... So i do send. Some people say you dont have to. I do. Its as flat as a piece of glass
Can a person get those 24 grit sanding screens ?;
Hi Guy, I've never tried the wet sanding method, however I do have a vacuum attachment to my sander so that it picks up 80% of the dust as I'm sanding. The only thing I don't like about it is that sanding mesh sometimes leaves a score mark in the mud, so I tend to use the smaller sanding sponges for finishing work.
Patron link?
Here It is- Www.Patreon.Com/thatkiltedguy
There is no patron link.
Ok, you got me, lol. No Patron link, only a Patreon link, which is : www.patreon.com/ThatKiltedGuy
Yeeeeeeeeeeee
Unfortunately I have breathing problems so I have to wet sand because I cannot pay some one to do the work 😔
First of all if your any good to begin with there isn't much sanding to begin with...clean up dry sanding is way faster to do vs wet sanding. I'll leave the mop and bucket at home ha ha
That's basically true, although most homeowners coming here to learn how to do it themselves, will most likely need to sand. And joints like but joints will need a bit of sanding, just due to the lap marks. But this was mostly about sanding edges on repairs, which always need sanding, and yes, a dry sanding works better, at least for me. Thanks for the comment, and for stopping by.
I can't imagine why it would take 15 minutes to explain why dry or wet sanding I mean do you talk about temperature of the water what type of bucket to use I just can't imagine why it would take more than a minute and a half but I got a peek in and see I guess