Here's the radical (and USG approved!) method to ensuring butt seams are never an issue: 1. Cut enough 48"x12" pieces of 1/2" OSB or similar to be a backer to ALL your butt joints. 2. Hang your drywall so that all butt joints land exactly IN BETWEEN STUDS. 3. On your backer board, put cardboard shims or precut 1/8+" thick wood on the furthest edges of the left and right sides of backer board, so that the butts of each drywall piece have a shim, roughly 6" from its edge. 4. Screw the drywall to the backer board nearest the middle. If this is done properly, the butt joints will actually bend inwards, creating a taper that can be perfectly flattened by mud, no more humps. Additionally, this joint is less likely to crack than even a butt joint on a stud, and it's much easier to get the screws in straight.
Excellent. I read that tip in Fine Homebuilding years ago and did it once. It definitely works. I should have done it in my room. Or, at least, checked the studs with a long straight edge and shaved the bow down. Thanks for taking the time to explain that. It may benefit someone else reading this! 👍
"It's not that critical." Yes, that'll pass for a lot of people in the trades, but I'm like you, Herrick. The job isn't finished until I'm satisfied with my work. I learned another old saying in the Army... Lord, I'm almost out of fingers to count the decades back, but I've never forgotten it. "There's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over." (Enter stage left... Mike Holmes).... "If you're gonna do it, do it right... the first time." WHY, why are people who consider themselves "Craftsmen," satisfied with a half-assed job? Thanks for another great one................
Nice job , my life long friend is a house builder ,he’s slowing down some now ,but when he was busy he had a slew of hangers and tapers …I knew 2 that very seldom needed sanding for paint prep ,( I painted on my winter layoff ). I was always amazed at their ability and speed .it was always a joy to watch them work ,and stilts like it an extension of their legs and all the tricks they had to work a room non stop .all the trades have their methods that make them the best in what they do . Thanks for the video…..
Most of the drywall jobs I did had mud texture spray shot on the walls, like a monterrey knock down finish. Thus the joint taping was not extremely critical. However on a wall with a smooth finish, with no texture sprayed on with your hopper, it is very critical to have near perfect joints. Thanks for another good tip.
I agree with your assessment, I have tried wet sponging, and it has its place, but I have never been able to get results that could compare to dry sanding. I used to use the sanding screen, but have gone more to the paper, because even a 220 screen will leave tracks in the finish, not really an issue with texture, but problematic for a smooth finish.
I totally agree that dry sanding gives the flattest results. The joint compound manufacturers suggest wet sanding for legal reasons on account of the respiratory hazards of dust. I don't sand between coats, but just use my 4 inch taping knife to knock off any friable ridges. I like the sanding screen like you use. I have a vacuum sander handle that I use for some jobs in finished homes. It works great at catching maybe 95% of the dust. The key element in that setup is a "dust deputy" cyclonic trap between the sander and the shop vac. Otherwise the filter will clog too quickly. Anyhow, I have been doing drywall repairs a long time and with good results but still have not achieved the mythical-level skill that eliminates sanding.
When I first started out back in the 70’s we used electric sanders. It actually does a good job but the dust it creates is unbelievable. I have wet sanded when the job is small or dust is unacceptable but maintaining the exact moisture level in the sponge or cloth to get a good job is very difficult and I agree that the finish is generally not as good as sanding. Thanks for all the good advice you give from your experience. Nothing is more valuable that experience.
Agreed 100% with everything you said here. By hand is the only way to get a primo job. I use the regular pole sander for ceilings and foam sander on the edges. The pad sander also works good on edges. Try the gator sandpaper and foam sander from lowes I've been happy with it.
I’ve always been both. Learned drywall in the early seventies and got very good at it. Always sanded with 150 on a pad before switching to a screen after they came out but then always finished with a wet sponge. It cleaned everything up nicely and often would expose areas that needed a bit of touching up before painting.
Honestly, wet sanding/finishing seems to take a lot more work and elbow grease! I'm not a professional, but have hung and finished some drywall. Old fashioned hand-sanding is still the best! Of course, an old pro once told me, "If you apply your first coat of mud correctly, you won't have as much sanding to do".
I love sanding screen, when cleaning a tough mineral ring inside a toilet, or maybe on the outside of a stainless steel skillet, when the grease is cooked on. It must, however, be used carefully, the etch is so permanent. A sanding screen has saved the day many times as I cleaned homes. Regards, Herrick, from far north California
As you stated in the beginning, I humbly confess that I have to do very little sanding and only use the 3m (dry) sponge. It’s all in the way that I use the 6”, 10” and 12” blades and I don’t sand in between coats. Coat 1 is heavy and for major imperfections. Coat number two I’m already beginning to smooth with my blade. Final coat I’m feathering. Then I do the fine-tuning with the sanding sponge dry.
I enjoy watching your videos, very informative. Can you tell me what’s the 10” Hyde knife part number that you use as a hawk? I’m an electrician and I often do small patches using fast setting joint compound. That’s a very handy tool and I’d like to get one. Thanks Bill
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Here's the radical (and USG approved!) method to ensuring butt seams are never an issue:
1. Cut enough 48"x12" pieces of 1/2" OSB or similar to be a backer to ALL your butt joints.
2. Hang your drywall so that all butt joints land exactly IN BETWEEN STUDS.
3. On your backer board, put cardboard shims or precut 1/8+" thick wood on the furthest edges of the left and right sides of backer board, so that the butts of each drywall piece have a shim, roughly 6" from its edge.
4. Screw the drywall to the backer board nearest the middle.
If this is done properly, the butt joints will actually bend inwards, creating a taper that can be perfectly flattened by mud, no more humps. Additionally, this joint is less likely to crack than even a butt joint on a stud, and it's much easier to get the screws in straight.
Excellent. I read that tip in Fine Homebuilding years ago and did it once. It definitely works. I should have done it in my room. Or, at least, checked the studs with a long straight edge and shaved the bow down. Thanks for taking the time to explain that. It may benefit someone else reading this! 👍
"It's not that critical." Yes, that'll pass for a lot of people in the trades, but I'm like you, Herrick. The job isn't finished until I'm satisfied with my work. I learned another old saying in the Army... Lord, I'm almost out of fingers to count the decades back, but I've never forgotten it. "There's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over." (Enter stage left... Mike Holmes).... "If you're gonna do it, do it right... the first time." WHY, why are people who consider themselves "Craftsmen," satisfied with a half-assed job? Thanks for another great one................
Nice job , my life long friend is a house builder ,he’s slowing down some now ,but when he was busy he had a slew of hangers and tapers …I knew 2 that very seldom needed sanding for paint prep ,( I painted on my winter layoff ). I was always amazed at their ability and speed .it was always a joy to watch them work ,and stilts like it an extension of their legs and all the tricks they had to work a room non stop .all the trades have their methods that make them the best in what they do . Thanks for the video…..
Great info especially for us that are weekend DIY’s
Most of the drywall jobs I did had mud texture spray shot on the walls, like a monterrey knock down finish. Thus the joint taping was not extremely critical. However on a wall with a smooth finish, with no texture sprayed on with your hopper, it is very critical to have near perfect joints. Thanks for another good tip.
I agree with your assessment, I have tried wet sponging, and it has its place, but I have never been able to get results that could compare to dry sanding. I used to use the sanding screen, but have gone more to the paper, because even a 220 screen will leave tracks in the finish, not really an issue with texture, but problematic for a smooth finish.
Moving the screen in a diagonal motion minimizes those tracks, I have found.
I totally agree that dry sanding gives the flattest results. The joint compound manufacturers suggest wet sanding for legal reasons on account of the respiratory hazards of dust. I don't sand between coats, but just use my 4 inch taping knife to knock off any friable ridges. I like the sanding screen like you use. I have a vacuum sander handle that I use for some jobs in finished homes. It works great at catching maybe 95% of the dust. The key element in that setup is a "dust deputy" cyclonic trap between the sander and the shop vac. Otherwise the filter will clog too quickly. Anyhow, I have been doing drywall repairs a long time and with good results but still have not achieved the mythical-level skill that eliminates sanding.
I just looked up the dust deputy. A new product to me. Looks like a worthwhile tool to have! Thank you.
When I first started out back in the 70’s we used electric sanders. It actually does a good job but the dust it creates is unbelievable. I have wet sanded when the job is small or dust is unacceptable but maintaining the exact moisture level in the sponge or cloth to get a good job is very difficult and I agree that the finish is generally not as good as sanding. Thanks for all the good advice you give from your experience. Nothing is more valuable that experience.
Agreed 100% with everything you said here. By hand is the only way to get a primo job. I use the regular pole sander for ceilings and foam sander on the edges. The pad sander also works good on edges. Try the gator sandpaper and foam sander from lowes I've been happy with it.
I've looked at that Gator sander at Lowes. If I ever take on a larger drywall job than my current home addition project, I'll get one! Thanks.
I’ve always been both. Learned drywall in the early seventies and got very good at it. Always sanded with 150 on a pad before switching to a screen after they came out but then always finished with a wet sponge. It cleaned everything up nicely and often would expose areas that needed a bit of touching up before painting.
Honestly, wet sanding/finishing seems to take a lot more work and elbow grease! I'm not a professional, but have hung and finished some drywall. Old fashioned hand-sanding is still the best! Of course, an old pro once told me, "If you apply your first coat of mud correctly, you won't have as much sanding to do".
I love sanding screen, when cleaning a tough mineral ring inside a toilet, or maybe on the outside of a stainless steel skillet, when the grease is cooked on. It must, however, be used carefully, the etch is so permanent. A sanding screen has saved the day many times as I cleaned homes. Regards, Herrick, from far north California
I didn't know that. Great tip!
As you stated in the beginning, I humbly confess that I have to do very little sanding and only use the 3m (dry) sponge. It’s all in the way that I use the 6”, 10” and 12” blades and I don’t sand in between coats. Coat 1 is heavy and for major imperfections. Coat number two I’m already beginning to smooth with my blade. Final coat I’m feathering. Then I do the fine-tuning with the sanding sponge dry.
I enjoy watching your videos, very informative. Can you tell me what’s the 10” Hyde knife part number that you use as a hawk? I’m an electrician and I often do small patches using fast setting joint compound. That’s a very handy tool and I’d like to get one.
Thanks Bill
Hi Bill,
It's HYDE 09100
I discuss it in this video: ruclips.net/video/M5oRQ-4aZQs/видео.htmlsi=NIjlMkjdsG6TO6T_
👍
Festool festool festool the only way to go no dust best tool in the world if you can afford it
thanks for the info it is always valuable
I've never wet sanded and had it come out quite as good.
You sold me dry sand for a better product. Thank you
If you know how to float then no sanding is needed, taping knife for scraping and a damp rag is all you need.
Round disk sander.